Ep. 076 - Let's Talk Powder
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- Опубліковано 14 чер 2023
- On this episode, Seth, Jayden, and Miles gather to talk about all things powder. They begin with a brief history of gun powder and discuss the advancements that have brought us to modern day smokeless propellants. They discuss the types of powders and the different chemistries that are used today. Temperature stability is also discussed as well as progressive burn speeds. If you’ve ever wanted to know more about the powders that you hand load with or how powders are chosen for factory ammunition, you will want to check this one out.
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Being a reloading nerd, I really enjoy these types of podcasts. 😅👍
Glad you enjoy it!
Same here!
@@hornadyLooking forward to the primer video
I do really enjoy the show!
I really enjoy listening to all your podcasts. Muzzle loader season is my favorite
A podcast on appropriate ammunition, powder, primer, etc storage would be great!!!!
The knowledge level that is shared in this video is awe inspiring.
Especially from non old guys.
Really awesome episode guys. As a maybe intermediate reloader, the relationship between pressure and case volume is something that always made sense to me. I never really thought about the bore volume in its relationship to pressure though. the discussion about the 9mm bore being the same diameter as the case and why that requires the much faster burning powder as opposed to rifles just clicked a whole bunch of puzzle pieces into place in my brain. Thanks for releasing this!
Excellent podcast as always. It's great to hear the experts talk that actually know whats going on. Could you guys do one on primers? Small vs large, standard vs magnum? Thanks
I would love to see that as well!
I believe you made an inaccurate statement about surface areas of different size granuals. You said that larger the granules, the more surface area it would have compared to smaller granules. The smaller granules of the same volume as the larger granules would have more surface area due to the percentage of the flake or granual that is exposed. This leads to a faster burn rate for smaller flakes. Think of it in terms of something like ice. Ten pounds of crushed ice will melt faster than a solid 10 pound block of ice due to the percentage of surface area exposed to higher temperatures than 32°. This is one of the reasons that flake powder, such as shotgun or pistol powder, has a faster burn rate than an extruded rifle powder. I'm not trying to be nit-picky with your podcast. I enjoy every one of them.
👨🎓 Yes, your statement is correct! 😃
😊9
I'll have to thank my wife for keeping the house at 74 degrees year round and to you gentlemen for lots of good information
Another aspect of bore volume vs. burn rate that didn't get mentioned is barrel (bore) length and its relationship with burn rate. Using your example of the 9mm vs the .243, the 9mm bore volume does increase faster, but since it is much shorter (usually), the volumes will end up being similar...but the 9mm powder needs to be faster not only to fill up that more rapidly increasing volume, but to also finish burning in the shorter barrel.
Great point. You might use very different powders for a snubbie 357 magnum compared to a 7-1/2” barrel 357 Magnum.
@@chipsterb4946Another factor specific to revolvers is the cylinder gap concept. Longer barrels in the presence of a cylinder gap actually may decrease the velocity of a given cartridge, usually observed with barrels over 7 inches.
I have first observed this with my Ruger Single Six revolvers shooting 22lr, 6.5 inch barrel gives faster speeds compared to 9.5 inch... I also observed this concept after started reloading for centerfire magnum revolvers..
Really looking forward to this one guys!
I wish all industry media was this useful. Most of it is infotainment that’s devoid of any real meat.
Thank you for this information. It explains some weird stuff I’ve seen. I live in southern Az and for the most part store everything in climate controlled environment but after a range day ammo might get left in the vehicle for a few days and temperatures can exceed 150 degrees f this explains why I occasionally see pressure issues
Thanks for going over case capacity and hang fires, I have a .264 win mag I shelved because of this. Informative podcast thanks!
Great discussion. Keep these coming!
There is a good write-up regarding pressure on page 55 of the Speer #12 Reloading Manual. They look for an average expansion of 0.0003 with no individual reading over 0.0005". They state that this is generally accepted as representing pressures in the 50,000 CUP range with typical cases. Cases used more than 3 times become work hardened which result in false readings.
Hornady comment on this on page 72 of their Hornady Handbook of Cartridge handloading, 8th Edition. " An accurate blade micrometer can be a useful instrument for detecting excessive pressures. By measuring new case dimensions before and after firing, you will be able to note signs of excess pressure. On belted magnum cases you should measure the belt. Careful measurement of this dimension of new cases before and after firing reflects chamber pressure. Measure rimless cases just in front of the extractor groove or rimmed cases immediatly in front of the rim will reveal symptoms of excessive pressure in these cartridges. When these results are compared to similar measurements on factory rounds, a reloader can approximate a safe upper pressure limit."
Once again thank you for the time and effort you put into this podcast, it is tremendously appreciated.
Thanks for listening
Thanks guys for running through all this info. I keep mine in ziplocks with 50 % humidor packets.
Definitely enjoy these types of podcasts guys thanks for all your hard work an effort 👌
Glad you enjoy it!
25:30 Wait, you mean to tell me that there are reloaders out there who haven't poured out a small amount of propellent and took a lighter or match to it? Hell, as kids, we used to take fireworks and open them up to get the powder out of them and into a mound and light it, where I'm from, we called them "Genie's" because it was like the flash and smoke plum that would appear right before a Genie came out of the lamp in the cartoons... Speaking of which, since 4th of July is just a few days away..... LOL
What is explained starting at about 40:20 is also basically the explanation of why seating a bullet deeper off the lands will _"typically"_ cause a reduction in overall peak pressure for the same charge for anyone who's ever wondered that. If the bullet gets a running start at the lands, it is easier for it to engrave into the lands and keep going (i.e., total case/chamber and barrel volume increasing at a more consistent rate) whereas a bullet seated out touching the lands (or really close to or worse, jammed) do not get that running start and therefore is taking more force to initially get going. This results in a total volume that is not increasing as fast as the gasses are being formed from the burning powder so pressure rises faster which in turn, as mentioned earlier in video, causes the powder to burn faster, which in turn causes the pressure to rise and the cycle repeats until the bullet really gets moving down the bore.
Another great episode.
Great explanation on powder peak pressure time.
These podcasts are very helpful to the reloading community.
Great to hear!
Please keep loading in the rotation of these great videos!
That was an hour well spent. I learned a great deal. Thanks.
Glad to hear it!
Great job guys!
One thing I wish you would have covered in this podcast is similar nomenclatures among different brands and why one can be good for a cartridge and one wont be. Example IMR 4350 and H4350. How did they come to have the same # in the name and how can they be vastly different.
Excellent question
Wish there had been a discussion on the types of propellant available to the OEM Ammunition maker and the Reloader, and the fallacy of attempting to identify the propellant pulled from OEM manufactured ammunition.
Great video guys THANKS GUYS!
My father and I have been reloaded for 20-plus years and we are in a nice golden age of powders we have choices now that we didn't have back then
You sure open my eyes on a lot things thank you
You are so welcome
I had come up with an unbelievable load with superformance for a 6.5 when it was winter out and no pressure signs used the exact same load in the summer when it was hot as hell out and ammo was sitting in the sun the pressure was unbelievable. Blowing and piercing primmers. Pressure was beyond excessive
I had only one professor in college that could reduce complex mathematical and physical concepts down to the nuts and bolts, where I could understand what happens if I tightened or loosened one or the other.
Doctor Jaydan and Doctor Seth are now the second and third.
Great job!
Take a little bit out of petty cash and the rest of the day off.
Thanks for the kind words!
Would like to see a list of powders that you would recommend for long-term ammo storage and ones to stay away from. Thanks
Can we make an assumption that extruded single stage Hodgdon and IMR should be good stored well for 20 years?
I love these podcasts.....
The graphics of the cartridges are all jacked up.
Great info. Thanks guys. Answers so much for us all.
Glad it was helpful!
Good stuff gentleman! I had some post ww2 12 gauge shotgun shells with the paper cartridges and I shot 3 of them and fired fine. I didn’t expect them to fire at all!
Love this discussion ❤❤
Please consider a podcast on explaining the difference between loading for auto loaders vs bolt actions and why someone should not use your .243 rifle ammo in a semi-auto.
I would LOVE to hear a pod cast on bullet designs and how each one responds to the different barrels and powder types, and the best seating depths for said designs.
That video would probably be a many hours long to just touch the surface without getting specific to individual cartridges, bullets, powders, etc.
@herbieschwartz9246 that's the beauty of podcast. There are long forum.
Love this one. Good job
Thank you! Cheers!
Simple rule prevents wrong powder use, only 1 powder out at a time! To include swapping, cleaning, changing all devices. Powder chucker, trickle charger, ect. 1 powder means everything! Human complicity is the demon!😮
Can you talk more about sealing ammunition in a future episode. For those of us that live and load in a certain environment, but then travel to hunt and/or shoot in another, this may be a worthwhile thing to consider.
Really good pod cast interesting and informative I learned a lot listening to you guy thanks for posting this 👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent stuff guys!
Thanks for listening
Great video
Always learning something..
Really interested in finding out what powders are are better for long term storage.
been waiting for this one.
Love to see another podcast on advanced powder, which ones deteriorate and why, more storage tips. I vacuum seal mine, I wonder if I vacuum the air out of the cartridge it’s bad? Should I let it equalize prior to using?
Great discussion. Thanks.
Our pleasure!
Great information! Would be great to have a second episode on powder to get even deeper. One thing to talk about is why propellant is NOT done certain ways. For instance:
- Why is propellant not in the playdough state? Couldn't the burn rates be controlled chemically and nullify shape?
- If nitroglycerin is used, why isn't plastique used in propellants or even instead of nitrocellulose?
- Why doesn't firearm ammo mimic artillery ammo in terms of having preset charges? These charges could easily be dropped into a cartridge, or going back to muzzle loaders and eliminate the cartridge?
- I know there was a firearm built in the 1960s that used jet fuel that flopped of course.
- etc, etc, etc....
As a retired 13A who cut his teeth on 105s, outside of maybe a muzzleloader, I'm not sure what utility varying charges would have for firearms, given the narrow band that small arms propellants work in for a given case and projectile. Howitzers have to be able to fire "accurately" at relatively higher angles (usually over 267 mils or 15° to prevent a ricochet in a training area situation) from 2000m to 30km. That tends to be best accomplished within certain range bands within a charge, dictated by probable error data found in Table G in the firing table. A squared away combat Fire Direction Center would have a range fan with those bands on it on acetate. I happened to have an old 155mm firing table on my end table.
Several of the new p ropellents are a mix of geometrys also. I've seen spherical combined with a semi-spherical etc. Nice information, not really unknown for me, but great info.
Great podcast guys!
Much appreciated!
Good stuff, gents. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Another insightful podcast. Thanks. As a handloader, I would have loved to see each of your individual approaches to developing a starting point load from the Hornady Handbook and in a caliber which you've never loaded.
Great suggestion!
If you ever get into developing a load for a wildcat cartridge that has no published data, then the fun begins. Go slow, document everything, get a good chronograph, learn to read pressure signs before they get real obvious. I've done this for several : 6mm Rem. Ackley, 338 JDJ#2, 308-350 Rem. Mag (belt removed). Challenging, time consuming, but rewarding.
Great discussion. I would really love to know how much of a discernable difference you can expect from different lots of the same powder. For that matter, bullets too.
This would be very difficult to properly quantify. Suffice it to say that at a minimum I definitely re-test or re-develop a load with new powder lots to match velocity of a known previous lot of powder, then evaluate dispersion performance. Bullets tend to be less of an issue, but we've seen a few instances where different tooling used in different lots of the same bullet can cause minor POI shift between lots. This is also something worth testing. The old rules of thumb of re-testing after changing any component/lot is solid advice, and buy in bulk whenever possible.
for Jayden and Miles, would be great if the burn rate chart can be updated, say each with a number/score out of 100, ie 2 powders can be next to each other, but closer to the the powder on it's other side then each other... I know you can alter it by temp and volume (ie seating depth).. What i'm thinking is rate chart where each have a score, the power was say occupying the same % of space in a container - so as to level the "playing" field.
I did some wildcatting where there was no load data. 6mm Remington Ackley, 338 JDJ #2, 308/350 Rem Mag (belt machined off), and others. Regardless of what the "experts" say, load development is 10% science and 90% voodoo and if you think otherwise, then do not attempt to work up loads without established load data or you may experience laws of physics that can hurt you very badly. Working up loads is done slowly with careful measurement and documentation. Eventually I found powders that liked my cartridge/ bullet combinations without large surprises in small increased powder charges. If you are working up loads from scratch, expect a lot of time and effort. If you want to cut corners and "assume" based on similar cartridge capacity, etc. then expect an unwanted result because eventually, it will happen.
I cycle my CCW ammo every 6 to 12 months.
Another good one
Thanks for listening
Great pod-cast covering why in the heck are there 160 different powders and maybe you guys can do one on different primers. As a new reloader and the constant Easter egg hunt for needed primers and just what happens when go off your Bible of reloading and use say a Mil-spec vs a Magnum or a standard instead of the Magnum, etc…
Wow very interesting.
I use H4350 for .270 Win, H Varget for 30.06 Sp. H1000 for 6.5 PRC.
What's holding us back from large pressure increases, traveling charges or some way to hold a longer pressure spike, and good sabots especially ones that could be used in a smooth bore?
It seems like to me we are just refining the technology from 100 years ago and some things with advancement in materials and technology like 3D printing we should be getting close to a major jump.
Great info thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
What would be an acceptable range of temperature and humidity in your reloading room/powder/bullet storage? Asking for rifle gun powders.
Powder burn characteristics vs. moisture content: Norma's Reloading Manual No.2 has a great article on the topic, with measurements!
I love the smell of gun powder in the am
The progressive burn rate might explain how the new Viht N555 works so well.
Interesting 🤔 Hello from Ukraine 🇺🇦 Thanks for sharing expertise 😊
24:00 actually in a video with Joyce Hornady years ago, he shows lighting powder. I think it might be one of his reloading videos he did. EDIT: Haha, Jayden just mentioned that video.🙂
I totally get that y'all don't wanna throw a product under the bus when their not there to defend themselves. But you need to put out the word on what powder(s) are prone to rapid degradation and corroding copper/brass. It's a safety issue as well as a financial one. If you load up 1,000 rounds of whatever that was, store it in a closet for a few years, then try to shoot it, then best case you notice the corrosion before shooting and you're out all the time and money in components and loading. Worst case, the corrosion is not obvious, or someone is a little... slow(yep those guys reload too), and you fire it and have a catastrophic failure in the unsupported section of the case. That should have been a PSA on every possible platform and channel you could get it on the day you found out about it. So please do the community a favor and let us all know so we don't waste time, money, and components or worse.
Thanks
I only burn powder that is temp sable, some of the powders mentioned are horribly temp sensitive and get crazy with high temps and humidity.
does adding sealant to the case mouth and primer affect pressure enough to change accuracy?
Overall this video was fantastic. Like others, the “bore volume” // the size of the bore in relation to the chamber/case body hadn’t occurred to me as a factor.
Wow! I had no idea that temperature fluctuations over time could affect propellants. Thank you.
I found the “3 legged stool” metaphor a little confusing. Geometry I understand - more surface area burns faster. Chemistry makes sense in terms of coatings to control the burn rate. However, “pressure” doesn’t seem like the right word choice. I don’t know whether “energy per unit of weight” is what he means or energy as controlled by case and chamber geometry or what.
For example H4895 and VV N-135 are very close on burn rate charts, but look at the weight of powder for a maximum load for a 165 grain SST. Max load shown is 43.3 grains for H4895 but only 38.7 grains for N-135. Granted the N-135 max load is a little bit slower (2,533 vs. 2,600 fps) but even if you down-load H4895 to match velocity you’re still going to need more powder (by weight).
Thank you .
Welcome 😊
To keep your ammo safe, you need to keep it cool, dry, and out of the sunlight.
Avoid High Temperatures
Many novices worry that high temperatures will cause ammunition to spontaneously combust. But like spontaneous combustion itself, this is largely a myth. Nowadays, ammunition is produced to withstand pretty significant temperatures on either side of the spectrum. Exposing your ammo to extreme heat, however, can cause damage.
High temperatures will begin to affect the gunpowder and priming mixture. Over time you’ll notice a drop in performance due to severe degradation until eventually your rounds or shells stop firing altogether. A good rule of thumb is to make sure your ammunition is always stored somewhere below 150 degrees Fahrenheit.
That's easy enough to do if you keep your ammo locked away in gun safes, but every now and then you might find a box of .22s in the trunk of your car. On a hot sunny day, the trunk of your car can easily reach over 172 degrees, hot enough to ruin any ammo.
Prevent Temperature Fluctuations
According to SAAMI(Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute) standards, extremely high temperatures (over 150° F) should be avoided. The ideal storage temperatures is between 55°F and 85°F.
In addition to avoiding high temperatures, extreme cold can also affect your ammunition (although it's less likely). What’s more likely to hinder the performance of your ammo is temperature fluctuations. In the same way that temperature fluctuations can ruin a case of beer, a case of ammo can also suffer from temperature swings. Unfortunately, that means you probably shouldn’t leave your shells in the garage or somewhere else that’s exposed to the changing seasons.
People tend to think that as long as the ammo is stored indoors it’s protected, but that’s not always the case. Areas, where the temperature might change significantly in one direction or the other, are poor places for storage, as are basements, cars, and open containers of any kind. You want to keep your ammo somewhere that has consistent temperatures (storage unit, gun safes, gun rack in the house, etc.) throughout the lifespan of your ammo, which can last over 10 years or more if properly stored.
The best place to store ammunition is in gun safes because of their dry interior and consistent temperatures. They’re also beneficial if you have children or teenagers that you wouldn’t want getting a hold of your guns and ammunition without supervision. You’ve spent a lot of money on your ammo, so be sure to properly care for it.
POWDER MOIST CONTENT
Variations in moisture content change the burning rate of a powder and thereby chamber pressures and muzzle velocity. The moisture content of the N100 and N300 series powders is usually around 1 %, the N500-series’ normal moisture content is 0.6 % because of the added nitroglycerine.
So what difference does moisture content have? Here’s an example. In a test, a powder sample was dried by heating it, losing about 0.5 % of its weight. Cartridges were then loaded with the dried powder and fired using a pressure gun. Chamber pressures and muzzle velocities produced by these special cartridges were compared to those produced by cartridges loaded with untreated powder. (The powder charge and bullet were of course the same in both sets of cartridges.)
Comparing results showed chamber pressures increased from 320 MPa to 355 MPa with the dried powder, and the muzzle velocity increased accordingly from 770 m/s to 790 m/s (2526 to 2592 fps). And note, this is only one example, of one caliber and loading. The difference might be much higher depending on the cartridge and loading combinations.
What does this tell us? Well, it seems we need to forget the old saying “Keep your powder dry”! Instead, focus on proper powder storage, at a temperature below 68°F and humidity between 55-65 %.
TECH TIP: Humidity Can Change Powder Burn Rates
The leaves are falling, and that means the rainy season will soon begin in many areas of the country. With rain comes increased moisture in the air, i.e. increased humidity. And that, in turn, can affect how your powders perform by altering their burn rates.
Most shooters realize that significant changes in temperature will alter how powders perform. That’s why you want to keep your loaded ammo out of the hot sun, and keep rounds out of a hot chamber until you’re ready to fire. But there are other factors to be considered - HUMIDITY for one. This article explains why and how humidity can affect powder burn rates and performance.
We’ve all heard the old adage: “Keep your powder dry.” Well, tests by Norma have demonstrated that even normal environmental differences in humidity can affect the way powders burn, at least over the long term.
Powders Leave the Factory with 0.5 to 1.0% Water Content
Johansson explains that, as manufactured, most powders contain 0.5 to 1% of water by weight. (The relative humidity is “equilibrated” at 40-50% during the manufacturing process to maintain this 0.5-1% moisture content). Importantly, Johansson notes that powder exposed to moist air for a long time will absorb water, causing it to burn at a slower rate. On the other hand, long-term storage in a very dry environment reduces powder moisture content, so the powder burns at a faster rate. In addition, Johansson found that single-base powders are MORE sensitive to relative humidity than are double-base powders (which contain nitroglycerine).
Tests Show Burn Rates Vary with Water Content
In his review of the Norma Manual, Fred Barker notes: “Johansson gives twelve (eye-opening) plots of the velocities and pressures obtained on firing several popular cartridges with dehydrated, normal and hydrated Norma powders (from #200 to MRP). He also gives results on loaded .30-06 and .38 Special cartridges stored for 663 to 683 days in relative humidities of 20% and 86%. So Johansson’s advice is to keep powders tightly capped in their factory containers, and to minimize their exposure to dry or humid air.”
Confirming Johansson’s findings that storage conditions can alter burn rates, Barker observes: “I have about 10 pounds of WWII 4831 powder that has been stored in dry (about 20% RH) Colorado air for more than 60 years. It now burns about like IMR 3031.”
What does this teach us? First, all powders start out with a small, but chemically important, amount of water content. Second, a powder’s water content can change over time, depending on where and how the powder is stored. Third, the water content of your powder DOES make a difference in how it burns, particularly for single-base powders. For example, over a period of time, a powder used (and then recapped) in the hot, dry Southwest will probably behave differently than the same powder used in the humid Southeast.
Reloaders are advised to keep these things in mind. If you want to maintain your powders’ “as manufactured” burn rate, it is wise to head Johannson’s recommendation to keep your powders tightly capped when you’re not actually dispensing charges and avoid exposing your powder to very dry or very humid conditions.
Real-World Example - “Dry” H4831sc Runs HotterRobert Whitley agrees that the burn rate of the powder varies with the humidity it absorbs. Robert writes:
“I had an 8-lb. jug of H4831SC I kept in my detached garage (it can be humid there). 43.5-44.0 gr of this was superbly accurate with the 115 Bergers out of my 6mm Super X. I got tired of bringing it in and out of the garage to my house for reloading so I brought and kept the jug in my reloading room (a dehumidified room in my house) and after a few weeks I loaded up 43.5 gr, went to a match and it shot awful. I could not figure out what was going on until I put that load back over the chronograph and figured out it was going a good bit faster than before and the load was out of the “sweet spot” (42.5 - 43.0 gr was the max I could load and keep it accurate when it was stored in less humid air). I put the jug back in the garage for a few weeks and I now am back to loading 43.5 - 44.0 gr and it shoots great again. I have seen this with other powders too.”If you have two jugs of the same powder, one kept in a room in your house and one somewhere else where it is drier or more humid, don’t expect the two jugs of the same lot of powder to chrono the same with the same charge weights unless and until they are both stored long enough in the same place to equalize again.
The answer to the question is:
"ALWAY STORE AMMO, POWDERS, AS WELL AS PRIMERS @ A CONSTANT 40-50% for single base powders and 50-65% HUMITY for double base powders as much as possible!"
This information can be found in the "Norma Reloading Manual - Precision Reloading Guide For The Professional Shooters" as well as the article and videos posted below.
Article:
bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2018/03/humidity-and-powder-burn-rates-what-you-need-to-know/
Videos:
Part-1) ua-cam.com/video/pzDHRwi3QVk/v-deo.html
Part-2) ua-cam.com/video/h3lEAWqyREk/v-deo.html
Part 3) chronoplotter.com/2021/08/19/how-does-humidity-affect-powder/
I've seen videos on making nitrocellulose... It isn't a complicated process. But control of the burn rate and resulting pressure is the real "sciencey" aspect of it. Throw in nitroglycerin to make double base powders and it would probably get a bit "sporty" to manufacture.
Making explosives is easy - any terrorist could verify that. Attempting to put those in a firearm is not smart. Powder manufacturers have been experimenting and refining their chemistry and production process for 140 years. Please let them supply your fun stuff.
I've always wondered when looking at actual velocities of a personal rifle vs. the velocity of a charge weight listed in a manual, can the charge weight be increased until my velocity matches the book velocity? assuming the barrel is the same length as what was used in the manual.
maybe a better way to ask it is, is the velocity in the manual, a better indication of max charge than the weight listed is?
I've noticed that different cans of powder have required more or less powder to get the same velocities as other cans of powder.
Short answer - do not just add powder until you get book velocity. Too many variables involved. Start low and carefully go up from there, looking for pressure signs. Don't just go for the max and feel safe because its "published data". If you have ever seen a gun go BOOM because a reloader is chasing velocity, then you will understand that being safe is the number one priority.
I’m sharing this academic discussion with all of my fellow Y.T. content creators. Great insight into the composition and chemical reactions of powder. 👍
Keep up the great podcasts.
Awesome, thank you!
and hornady uses proprietary powders,and will not share some load data
I would also like levereverloution data
All I want to know is what kind of powder you guys are using in your 7mm prc 175 grain eld-x shells and how much?
I have always handloaded, beginning with the ww2 milsurp stuff.
I sized flashholes, weighed cases and thought I was prudent.
This podcast taught me all kinds of things.
Question about the powder column configuration.
Wouldn't a long narrow powder column provide a more consistant burn?
The opposite of the newer short/fat case design.
A smaller diameter case , the column directly over the flashhole( with a full column) should me more consistant.
I have always thought this and you suggested that if the column slumps away from the flashole the burn would be less consistant in theory( as I got this)
Would not a long powder column of a .375 H&H provide more consistant results over the .375 Ruger? Especially with a less than full chatge.
Regards, Tony.
You guys should make custom powders or blends, that get the most out of your match and eld lines of projectiles 🤙
That's what they pay a propellant maker, who has all the expertise, for.
Reloading for 300 win mag. Wondering if case fill isn't full, can you adjust seating depth to help with that issue and see better results?
Greetings and salutations. Any chance of a Let's Talk Powder Part II specifically focused on revolvers and straight walled cartridges/lever action rifles?. Powder choice and bullet type for; plated, coated, or lead. What type crimp for each type of bullet. How OAL affects pressure. Thanks. Kindest regards.
It would be helpful if the ammo companies ahared what powder they used. Feature it like they do bullets.
Many different applications for some powders, not so much for others, person need to READ a reloading manual and pay attention to where powders are used, and with what bullet weights, from a .22cal to a .500cal. Compare a .223Rem and a 30-06 and a 375H&H and a 450-400NE and a 45-70 and 500NE, and their listed powders, to the usage of those powders in other cartridges from 22 to 50 cal, it will surprise you where what can be used, or not used, where it performs well, where its listed and suddenly is mediocre in performance
In your testing for how the temperature affects burn, have you noticed a minimum temperature that ammunition work better, say 90 degrees or so?
I carry hornady ammo I love it. I threw my keystone out in the garbage because of every time I chamber a round it gets bullet setback. Hornady for lifeee
🧐 Wouldn't I expect to get better accuracy out of a powder (out of my 270 Winchester) with IMR 4831 - because it has less grains - than let's say Magpro (if I was using both to their maximum load rate and if both (as you say) filled the case so their was no empty space left to vary the ignition distribution within the case, even while shooting on a slope/hill)? 🤔
does adding sugar to the propellant, in the manufacturing phase increase energy?
I'm don't reload and I definitely don't know much about it but, I have bought some reloads (5.56) from freedom munitions and it was the worst ammo I ever shoot. It had a light load of gun powder and it was very dirty burning and corrosive and wasn't accurate. If you let your gun sit more than a day without cleaning it, it started to turn green. On the other hand, I got some of the AAC 77gr otm ammo from PSA and it's very accurate but dirty burning at least it's not corrosive like the powder freedom munitions uses.
What is used to seal ammunition at the primer? Same the bullet end?
I'm not sure why y'all keep referring to pistol powder and shotgun powder As if there's a difference, I haven't found a single pistol powder that i can't use in a shotgun.The biggest difference from a shotgun over a pistol. Is the huge amount of volume so it doesn't create as much pressure. And that is because though it shoots a heavy load. There's almost no resistance going down the barrel with the way a shell is made... try pushing a 9mm bullet down the barrel by hand. It's not going to happen. You're going to damage the bullet or the gun.Thus is why you need a little bit longer barrel for a shotgun to get full velocity, with the same powder. Because It's like. y'all said. There's not enough resistance, so it won't build more pressure than the resistance It's put under.... love The channel. Correct me on anything. What I may be mistaken on.
Dear Hornady, if I wanted to reduce my powder charge of a larger case volume to slow down the projectile speed (say 108 eldm from a 6 creed) to say 2800 fps, but still wanted to remain near or at max case fill percentage, would it be safe to switch to a slower burning powder than say an H4350 burn rate,
to allow the case fill to reach back to a full case fill?
Generally, yes. Slower burn rate powders will typically fill the case and reduce muzzle velocity and peak pressure. Obviously it's always best to have book data to start with for a reference point. You may run into ES/SD variation that's less than desirable with some combinations, and sooty, dirty burns with slower burn rate powders.
This may be a dumb question, but how does seating depth effect velocity?
speaking of Joyce's reloading video. what do you think miles? Joyce says seating depth matters.🤣
6 ARC Brass when?
I learned LITTLE bit about explosives as a Combat Engineer. I was wondering if a shape charge effect could be used to any effect to a rifle cartridge? Or if a vortex effect from the primmer could be actually aid ignition? Like a deep "V" internal cartridge base with 3 higher angled flash holes and the lower small flash hole at the very base of the "V". If anybody was to look into something like this I would bet Hornady would.
There was some experimentation on something similar to what you are suggesting, but was found economically unpractical, They ran a small powder filled tube from the primer to the front of the case to initiate ignition at the front of the case first with positive results.
I reload about 50 calibers 1 powder at a time min to max 1/10 of a gr ata time to get the most accurate projectile i can 223 to 45-70 38 to 45 colt got lots of data always by the book
Well that was interesting
What would you suggest to water proof ammo?
Engine guys should be quite comfortable with this data as it is very comparable. I'm a total noob on reloading but this is so close to what i know about engine design. Thanks
Yeah The piston is like a bullet
Interesting analogy. Some rough equivalencies : Bore= bullet diameter, Stroke= barrel length, Octane Rating, Alcohol Content, Fuel Additives = type of powder, Maximum Cylinder Pressure = max. chamber pressure, Horse Power = function of bullet weight and square of the velocity, Engine knock= powder too fast, Black Smoke= powder too slow, Ignition timing and Air/Fuel Ratio might be combined to = type of primer, burn rate of the propellant, cartridge capacity, load density and other variables. Just like doing mechanics, read lots of books and ask the old guys lots of questions. Welcome to reloading.