There is no way I'm taking that thing back off and shipping it back! I agree with you. Totally unacceptable that box leaked anyway! Replaced many and never had a problem like this. HE probably paid big to have the red painted cover box too.
@@chrismaragoudakis7603 I personally bought a new old stock on eBay for about $140 when I needed to replace a bad one. That’s not always possible. If cost and age of vehicle is an issue, I would get one from Classic Performance. If you plan on keeping the vehicle for a long time and want a new one. Orielys sells “New Advantage” not rebuilt. Personally, I’m not inclined to spend $640 on a box so, I’d go with one from Classic Performance. The reviews are so bad on so many of the remans at the parts chains, I elected to change the input seal on the last one, since it was still working great, just leaking. It’s not hard. There’s a good UA-cam video how to do it.
For future info, when using the pullers, crank down on the bolt until it has tension. Then take off wrench and tap the end of the bolt with the hammer. That breaks the tension. If it doesn't come off, repeat the process multiple times until it releases. Also, it is always easier to do it when things are mounted to the truck. You lose leverage once you unbolt it from the truck.
@@serenityplantation7638 Some people just like to replace parts new regardless of what ever it was that failed on the part. Its less about Cost, more just peace of mind, but what does peace of mind matter when the brand new part does the exact same thing as the last one 🤣Just because you can rebuild or replace a part doesn't mean you've fixed the issue, a real mechanic tries to figure out what caused the failure in the first place. Its ignorant to say someone else should stay away from tools when you lack the mental capacity to think things completely through!
Heck yes!! Definitely get some headers for it. Your engine will thank you with better low end torque. Thank goodness you got that pitman arm loose. They sure are a handful. I've seen mechanics use fork extractors and an air hammer to get them out. Seems to be the quickest way but still can be stubborn. Good work, Jimmy!! 👏💪
sometimes you can't go wrong with Autozone/Oreilly's lifetime warranty replacement, no shipping off, no downtime waiting for the part to arrive. Autozone/oreillys parts may occasionally fail too but its weird how people will give the Redhead failed part benefit of a doubt when they fail and belittle Oreilliys/Autozone parts when they fail. 30 years of working on vehicles using Autozone/Oreillys products. I've only had to use warranties on alternators and water pumps. I can't believe they are charging you to repair. do you have to ship on your dime too??
I buy Ebay quality parts for a fraction of brick and mortar. However, back in the day I have lifetimes on parts I am still replacing today 25 years later, like hood cylinders, blower motor...Make sure to scan receipts...
@publicmail2 shouldn't have to scan receipts just need an employee that knows the system autozone turn around rate is terrible at the same time most employee doesn't know what to do behind the computer
My 2001 Jeep GC was wandering a little from the play in the steering, I tried tightening the steering box adjustment several times and changed out almost all of the steering knuckles but the play still did not go away. I checked the bearing play on my front tires and that seemed fine also. I decided to change out the power steering box itself and that fixed the problem. I needed to use a 2 foot long breaker bar to get the bolts on the steering box loose. I did not have the $650.00 for a new one and decided to go to Pick-A-Part and found one that looked almost new from a 2002 year which fit perfectly. That was a year ago and I have not had any steering problems since. Note: You got to be careful with rebuilt items, last year I got rebuilt calipers and they both leaked fluid from the banjo bolt hose connectors, turns out tha rebuilt calipers have all been sand blasted which pits the metal were the banjo brake connector needs to seat. I was able to fix the leaking with resurfacing that surface with a drill and resurfacing fine grain emery cloth.
as someone who owns a 99 tahoe i bought and drove for 300 miles then the engine threw a rod, your videos are great understanding of what I should of done when I removed my engine, I also want to get the same steering system. Because it is lifted and has some big ol tires on it, but one part at a time, next goal is to remove the transmission to get to my rear main seal that must of beeen installed wrong. Thanks Jimmy
You don’t have to remove the front diff to drop the oil pan. I would strongly suggest changing the timing chain/gears and oil pump when you’ve got it all apart though.
Over the years, I've noticed a rather steep decline in the milling finishes of mating surfaces. The castings have pits and the fly cutting is quick with tooling/cutters used past their service limits... Sadly, it is what it is... So, how to fix? Years ago I bought a granite surface plate big enough to accept a full sheet of emery cloth. I use spray adhesive to glue the 8.5"x11" sheet of abrasive cloth to the surface plate. Paint the mating surface of the part permanent magic marker. I then hand-lap just about everything I can prior to installing. The marker lets you see which areas are still untouched with the lapping process, i.e., not yet level. I'm guessing that if you took that red steering box cover off there'd be a crappy job of final milling on either the box, cap, or both... Surface plates are cheap. There's no excuse for the pro level DIY wrench to be without one.
Wait a minute...how the heck is this not the fault of Red-Head? It appears to be their gasket that's leaking. It's great that they'll stand behind their product as long as YOU PAY for them to fix it. WTF? That is not a warranty and this should have been fixed by Red-Head even though it is slightly out of warranty by them just on the basis of goodwill. You never mentioned the $45.00 or so shipping each way...so that is at least another $90.00. Red-Head going to cover shipping for you?
It doesn't work like that. Its customary when dealing with parts like this, to warranty the part only, no labor. You'll know this before you do the job, so its up to you if you want to take the risk.
When I did my Redhead on my 08 Ram 2500, I put anti seize on the splines for the pitman arm and when I had to replace the box the pitman arm came right off with a few light taps of a hammer. something to consider.
Before installing the new gear assambely make sure to clean the screen filters at both sides at power steering pump n the gear also blow all pipes n hoses separately, then assambel all together also look carefully at the inlets n outlets n make sure there is no plastic objects or packings particle or died mices or any rappings.. good luck
You should probably flush that power steering system after the new install because you don't know what went bad and broke inside that steering gear that is now flowing through with the fluid making things worse
Glad to hear they’re standing behind it. Unfortunately I’ve been seeing similar issues from bluetop and redhead I always remove the pitman arm nut while the steering box is still attached. There’s still plenty of room to get a pitman arm pulled on there with the kryptonite arm. I always tighten up the puller to get tension, then hit the arm with a mini sledge a few times, tighten up again, and hit it. Then repeat until it comes off
Two things, their POS better be fixed.And it will never pay for the time/energy of taking it back out and fussing around now that the OEM part is gone. Generally normal people would be out of a truck for awhile. Plus because he's a youtuber he won't be told to pound sand -- every normal person would be told to pound sand.
A brand new Cardone is cheaper and has a lifetime warranty! This video confirms my choice to pass on the Redhead for my 93 Dodge Cummins was the right choice.
if you want headers, enjoy! I never install headers unless I need more power running wide open. Headers provide poor access, more heat and shorter lifespan than most stock or replacement exhaust manifolds.
I heard contradicting statements about Red-Head Steering Gears' quality control. This video reaffirms my decision to purchase from Blue-Top Steering Gears. P.S. - You need to invest in a DeWalt battery-powered 1/2" impact---$300.00 well-spent.
Kind of scummy they are making you pay for the repair. your 2" diff drop should be plenty to not have to fiddle with anything to drop that oil pan (at stock height you dont have to fully drop the diff to do that anyways). definitely get headers!
Lol that's how those pullers are meant to be used. It always make me laugh when people bend the hell out of a pitman arm puller because they just crank the piss out of it.
I've never had to crank one of those pullers enough to do that except trying to bust off a ball joint from a lower control arm at a picknpull. Even the hammer tappy tap tap didn't work on that. I use them for the LBJs and tie rod ends on my 4 runner. I had done so much work on the front end and popped those things off so many times previous that I could pop them off just cranking the puller bolt by hand lol. Front end rebuild is done (except the upper ball joint, those don't really wear to bad) now though so haven't popped them in a while.
Too bad its a leaker. Mine will be due for a box before long. I already bought new hoses when I found them on sale. If you haven't considered new hoses, now would be a good time. '95 K2500 LT 454TBI
Use the puller, NOT the pickle fork on the Pitman arm. Put a heat gun, or propane torch on the female piece, hit it with PB blaster. I recently pulled Pitman arm loose on an 85 Chevy 1 ton van. Took some beans but I got it. Pickle fork is less mechanically efficient. Probably won't even budge it. The moveable jaw puller will likely spread, not a 1st choice either.Pickle forks work well on tie rod ends and ball Joints but not Pitman arms. Particularly on the splined shaft of steering box. Question: Did you try to tightening the "red cap" bolts first? They may have been under torqued from rebuilder. No to the shorties. Not what you want. Doug Thorly Tri-Y headers for torque motor. You want long tubes. Tri-Y best torque numbers for a truck motor.
@@turkeyssr If it's leaking at that top plate, try tightening it more and evenly, save some work and money sometimes. If it's leaking at the Pitman shaft seal, bad Joo-Joo.
@@campbellpaul I wouldn't leap that far, the gasket could be torn, cap could be cracked...but the first thing you try is a snug and a tug on those cap flange bolts. clean it, check it again. Simplest answers, always the best if effective. R&R that steering box not my idea of fun either.
I had a set of headers on a TBI motor... Don't do it. It makes changing the plugs almost impossible and they are constantly loosening up unless you use special hardware
13:00 Why would a leaking product NOT be the fault of redheads? I can’t understand why you’re giving these guys all this forgiveness for selling you a POS product? They took your money. It better work. Look at all the time you’ve wasted.
Part only, no labor, is the standard warranty. You're aware of this before you start the job. If a labor warranty was included, they would just charge more for the part.
@@AT-wl9yq it’s totally up to redhead. Like I said, if their power steering pump is junk, or their faulty assembly is the reason the gasket is blown, then they should pay the labor. They have that written on their warranty and I’d stand my ground if I were this guy. Unless he knows something we don’t about why it’s leaking and why it may be his improper install or use.
@@JT-LV There's no reason to argue over something like this. In general, when dealing with reman parts, the standard is to expect less of a warranty in exchange for a cheaper price on a product that's not new. As a shop owner or manager, you just factor that into however you price the job. Everyone has to make their own decisions. The only point I'm really trying to make here is to a customer, this may seem like an unfair policy, but to a shop, this type of thing is normal, and we understand why. However, "They have that written on their warranty and I’d stand my ground if I were this guy.". OK. If that's their policy, and its in writing, then I would agree with you. There may be some fine print as to what they consider to be a fair labor rate, and if it applies to a shop, or someone doing the work themselves. But either way, if its part of the warranty, then the customer should be paid labor. Its just rare that labor is part of a warranty on a reman part like this. I don't remember all of the details from the video, but I had to have missed it.
@@AT-wl9yq it’s not in the video, It’s in Redheads written warranty. Labor is at their discretion. When you buy a mechanical part you expect it to work. In this case fluid is gushing out of the top seal. To me that’s a clear case of a defective part. Family owned businesses like redhead are usually more customer oriented than the big chains, so I would expect them to repair this part or give this guy a new one. Who sells products that fail and then charges their customers to fix them? Meanwhile, this guy “hopes” the replacement pump works while saying it’s not Redheads fault if it doesn’t. I’m completely confused by that mindset, hence my first comment.
That just shows poor quality control. They should have paid shipping and the repair. I'd never buy a red head brand. You could have rented a pitman arm puller.
So why do you never mess with the power steering box? Not only did you not even touch "why" but you didn't even mess with it. you just removed it and sent it out to be messed with by someone else. I hate misleading titles that waste my time.
You gave too much credit to redhead, regular 10k miles of driving would be 6-8 months and this thing failing shortly after those miles is big nono. First, redhead should send you new unit and take the old one with no questions asked. Of course I watch this video after contemplating if I should go with blue top or readhead.
If they are charging you to fix that shitty steering gear then they didn't stand behind it. If a "rebuilt" box is leaking after a year, I'd be throwing that box in the trash and going to another manufacturer.
I don't mean to be all negative, but I don't understand why Anyone would watch someone that's clearly just winging it. It's all over the internet, when doing my ls swap, I spent 3 times more time Watching hack videos trying to find correct informationvideos then doing the job. I've never seen or heard or been a part of a trade that this was allowed. It's like hiring a plumber to shoe your horse 🤕
High fail rate from users in first 5k miles, ask for labor reimbursement. How is this no fault of redhead 12:20? They would never admit to a common problem.
take the cap off , put some silicone on it ,put cap back on , let dry for 24 hours , done
There is no way I'm taking that thing back off and shipping it back! I agree with you. Totally unacceptable that box leaked anyway! Replaced many and never had a problem like this. HE probably paid big to have the red painted cover box too.
Red is known for this...
@@wheelstandrwhat brand do you recommend. I'm going to have to replace this on my Ram soon
@@chrismaragoudakis7603 I personally bought a new old stock on eBay for about $140 when I needed to replace a bad one. That’s not always possible. If cost and age of vehicle is an issue, I would get one from Classic Performance. If you plan on keeping the vehicle for a long time and want a new one. Orielys sells “New Advantage” not rebuilt. Personally, I’m not inclined to spend $640 on a box so, I’d go with one from Classic Performance. The reviews are so bad on so many of the remans at the parts chains, I elected to change the input seal on the last one, since it was still working great, just leaking. It’s not hard. There’s a good UA-cam video how to do it.
@@chrismaragoudakis7603 I wrote you back a detailed reply, but 1 road must have deleted it. I guess free speech isn’t allowed here.
For future info, when using the pullers, crank down on the bolt until it has tension. Then take off wrench and tap the end of the bolt with the hammer. That breaks the tension. If it doesn't come off, repeat the process multiple times until it releases. Also, it is always easier to do it when things are mounted to the truck. You lose leverage once you unbolt it from the truck.
Thanks, yes, came to that conclusion after doing that. Live and learn.
What this man said
Just take the top cap off & replace the gasket or use the rigid grey rtv with or without the gasket.
That’s what a mechanic would do. This dude clearly should stay away from tools
@@serenityplantation7638The original GM box lasted years all he had to do was rebuild it or just reseal it. Then paint the cap red.
@@serenityplantation7638 Some people just like to replace parts new regardless of what ever it was that failed on the part. Its less about Cost, more just peace of mind, but what does peace of mind matter when the brand new part does the exact same thing as the last one 🤣Just because you can rebuild or replace a part doesn't mean you've fixed the issue, a real mechanic tries to figure out what caused the failure in the first place. Its ignorant to say someone else should stay away from tools when you lack the mental capacity to think things completely through!
Steering gear/linkage work is always a barrel of fun! Headers? Make sure you have decent spark plug access!
Thanks Jimmy!
Heck yes!! Definitely get some headers for it. Your engine will thank you with better low end torque. Thank goodness you got that pitman arm loose. They sure are a handful. I've seen mechanics use fork extractors and an air hammer to get them out. Seems to be the quickest way but still can be stubborn. Good work, Jimmy!! 👏💪
sometimes you can't go wrong with Autozone/Oreilly's lifetime warranty replacement, no shipping off, no downtime waiting for the part to arrive. Autozone/oreillys parts may occasionally fail too but its weird how people will give the Redhead failed part benefit of a doubt when they fail and belittle Oreilliys/Autozone parts when they fail.
30 years of working on vehicles using Autozone/Oreillys products. I've only had to use warranties on alternators and water pumps.
I can't believe they are charging you to repair. do you have to ship on your dime too??
I buy Ebay quality parts for a fraction of brick and mortar. However, back in the day I have lifetimes on parts I am still replacing today 25 years later, like hood cylinders, blower motor...Make sure to scan receipts...
@publicmail2 shouldn't have to scan receipts just need an employee that knows the system autozone turn around rate is terrible at the same time most employee doesn't know what to do behind the computer
@@master6435What do you mean by turnaround rate?
@randallsmerna384 turnaround might not be the right word, but people get hired and fast as they quit or get fired, so nobody knows the computer system
My 2001 Jeep GC was wandering a little from the play in the steering, I tried tightening the steering box adjustment several times and changed out almost all of the steering knuckles but the play still did not go away. I checked the bearing play on my front tires and that seemed fine also. I decided to change out the power steering box itself and that fixed the problem. I needed to use a 2 foot long breaker bar to get the bolts on the steering box loose. I did not have the $650.00 for a new one and decided to go to Pick-A-Part and found one that looked almost new from a 2002 year which fit perfectly. That was a year ago and I have not had any steering problems since. Note: You got to be careful with rebuilt items, last year I got rebuilt calipers and they both leaked fluid from the banjo bolt hose connectors, turns out tha rebuilt calipers have all been sand blasted which pits the metal were the banjo brake connector needs to seat. I was able to fix the leaking with resurfacing that surface with a drill and resurfacing fine grain emery cloth.
Did you try to tighten the steering box head bolts yourself sometimes that's that works
Great job Jimmy! Glad you did It! Always loved your truck since the beginning.
Thanks!
as someone who owns a 99 tahoe i bought and drove for 300 miles then the engine threw a rod, your videos are great understanding of what I should of done when I removed my engine, I also want to get the same steering system. Because it is lifted and has some big ol tires on it, but one part at a time, next goal is to remove the transmission to get to my rear main seal that must of beeen installed wrong. Thanks Jimmy
Man, that rear main seal is on my bucket list. I’d love to learn how to do it but it’s scary.
@@1RoadGarage Suburban Ranch has a great video on it the title is "Replacing the rear main seal on a 88-98 OBS Chevy 1500
@@ShelbySmallFry I’ll look into it, thanks!
You don’t have to remove the front diff to drop the oil pan. I would strongly suggest changing the timing chain/gears and oil pump when you’ve got it all apart though.
Otc Makes 1 ton Pitman Arm Oullrrs that are adjustable and work amazing
Over the years, I've noticed a rather steep decline in the milling finishes of mating surfaces. The castings have pits and the fly cutting is quick with tooling/cutters used past their service limits... Sadly, it is what it is...
So, how to fix?
Years ago I bought a granite surface plate big enough to accept a full sheet of emery cloth. I use spray adhesive to glue the 8.5"x11" sheet of abrasive cloth to the surface plate. Paint the mating surface of the part permanent magic marker. I then hand-lap just about everything I can prior to installing. The marker lets you see which areas are still untouched with the lapping process, i.e., not yet level.
I'm guessing that if you took that red steering box cover off there'd be a crappy job of final milling on either the box, cap, or both...
Surface plates are cheap. There's no excuse for the pro level DIY wrench to be without one.
That’s good that they’re standing by the product, I have one of their steering gear boxes on my 2000 F350, so far it’s holding up.
Doesn’t sound like they’re standing by anything. They’re charging him $75/hr to fix it. Bet you shipping it is on him too.
Wait a minute...how the heck is this not the fault of Red-Head? It appears to be their gasket that's leaking. It's great that they'll stand behind their product as long as YOU PAY for them to fix it. WTF? That is not a warranty and this should have been fixed by Red-Head even though it is slightly out of warranty by them just on the basis of goodwill. You never mentioned the $45.00 or so shipping each way...so that is at least another $90.00. Red-Head going to cover shipping for you?
It doesn't work like that. Its customary when dealing with parts like this, to warranty the part only, no labor. You'll know this before you do the job, so its up to you if you want to take the risk.
When I did my Redhead on my 08 Ram 2500, I put anti seize on the splines for the pitman arm and when I had to replace the box the pitman arm came right off with a few light taps of a hammer. something to consider.
Before installing the new gear assambely make sure to clean the screen filters at both sides at power steering pump n the gear also blow all pipes n hoses separately, then assambel all together also look carefully at the inlets n outlets n make sure there is no plastic objects or packings particle or died mices or any rappings.. good luck
Thanks!
Pretty easy repair take cap off put some Rtv On it put the cap back on let sit for 24 to 48 hours and re install
Gibson ceramic headers will sound and look amazing on this old Burb Jimmy @1Road
You should probably flush that power steering system after the new install because you don't know what
went bad and broke inside that steering gear that is now flowing through with the fluid making things worse
🤔👍
So the rumors of the redhead are true. Looks like I’m going to pick blue top instead!
I bought one on amazone for under $300. Worth every freakin penny!
Good job Jimmy. When you get all your leaks fixed maybe you can do a video on how to get the oil stains off the concrete floor! LoL
And he can title the video "Here's why you never mess with your leaks."
Use a 1 ton Steering Puller from Otc
Never had any problems taking a steering box out all I used was pickle fork and hammer and air tools
I would be curious to see if there is any noticeable difference in power with headers on the swirlport tbi.
Makes you wonder I know true duals didn’t do anything for my tbi but my 99-06 model responded so good with headers and stock exhaust
Glad to hear they’re standing behind it. Unfortunately I’ve been seeing similar issues from bluetop and redhead
I always remove the pitman arm nut while the steering box is still attached. There’s still plenty of room to get a pitman arm pulled on there with the kryptonite arm. I always tighten up the puller to get tension, then hit the arm with a mini sledge a few times, tighten up again, and hit it. Then repeat until it comes off
Two things, their POS better be fixed.And it will never pay for the time/energy of taking it back out and fussing around now that the OEM part is gone.
Generally normal people would be out of a truck for awhile. Plus because he's a youtuber he won't be told to pound sand -- every normal person would be told to pound sand.
Stand by it? They’re charging him $75/hr to fix it. That’s not standing by anything.
@@JT-LVGood point, I misunderstood that part. I thought they were paying him $75 an hour to get it installed by a professional.
@@JT-LV lol that's even worse. what a POS company. can't even take 1,000 miles vs an OEM -- even if it's a pavement princess
A brand new Cardone is cheaper and has a lifetime warranty! This video confirms my choice to pass on the Redhead for my 93 Dodge Cummins was the right choice.
Awesome video Great work!
I put a red head on my 1990 truck. It took care of 50 of the sloppy steering that I had. Nowi have to do the steering shaft.
I would love to see the headers video!
👍
if you want headers, enjoy! I never install headers unless I need more power running wide open. Headers provide poor access, more heat and shorter lifespan than most stock or replacement exhaust manifolds.
Been there! I was rooting for you!
Leave the crown nut on the edge of the pitman bolt and hit the nut and it will pop out of the center link.
Ive been putting this job for years, I dont have a garage or the money to fix it so im constantly filling the power steering 😅
5-10yrs ago, I'd say it would never happen with a redhead, now, its so common! I get Lares new, no more remans!
I heard contradicting statements about Red-Head Steering Gears' quality control. This video reaffirms my decision to purchase from Blue-Top Steering Gears.
P.S. - You need to invest in a DeWalt battery-powered 1/2" impact---$300.00 well-spent.
Bluetop are having similar quality control issues currently as well. It’s basically luck of the draw these days with bluetop or redhead unfortunately
The flip flops is the power and knowledge port!
Hey Jimmy, I'm like you, I'd prefer to have MORE, than not enough! Nothing wrong with overkill!
If you use a tool more then twice buying it is a good idea
This is why I went with bluetop on my duramax.
A little bit of anti cease will help
Jimmy, looking for a follow-up on this...
I've bought things from harbor freight that I know I'm probably not gonna need but if I know better one day I will.
Kind of scummy they are making you pay for the repair. your 2" diff drop should be plenty to not have to fiddle with anything to drop that oil pan (at stock height you dont have to fully drop the diff to do that anyways). definitely get headers!
Lol that's how those pullers are meant to be used. It always make me laugh when people bend the hell out of a pitman arm puller because they just crank the piss out of it.
I've never had to crank one of those pullers enough to do that except trying to bust off a ball joint from a lower control arm at a picknpull. Even the hammer tappy tap tap didn't work on that. I use them for the LBJs and tie rod ends on my 4 runner. I had done so much work on the front end and popped those things off so many times previous that I could pop them off just cranking the puller bolt by hand lol. Front end rebuild is done (except the upper ball joint, those don't really wear to bad) now though so haven't popped them in a while.
Too bad its a leaker. Mine will be due for a box before long. I already bought new hoses when I found them on sale. If you haven't considered new hoses, now would be a good time. '95 K2500 LT 454TBI
Good idea!!
I put a $20 kit in mine and its been working for years and i have my own gear box not somebody's box of problems
This is what Anti-Seize is for.
They’re prolly standing behind the product coz you have 260thousand subz 😂
yeah i wonder the response an avg joe would get.
@@leemp337do a Google search. You'll find that answer is no. Redhead isn't what it used to be, this is proof.
My 2000 silverado seems to eat these things. I have gone through 3 steering gears in about 2 years and I have no idea why.
What happened to this red head steering gear
I love the work boots
Use the puller, NOT the pickle fork on the Pitman arm. Put a heat gun, or propane torch on the female piece, hit it with PB blaster. I recently pulled Pitman arm loose on an 85 Chevy 1 ton van. Took some beans but I got it. Pickle fork is less mechanically efficient. Probably won't even budge it. The moveable jaw puller will likely spread, not a 1st choice either.Pickle forks work well on tie rod ends and ball Joints but not Pitman arms. Particularly on the splined shaft of steering box.
Question: Did you try to tightening the "red cap" bolts first? They may have been under torqued from rebuilder.
No to the shorties. Not what you want. Doug Thorly Tri-Y headers for torque motor. You want long tubes. Tri-Y best torque numbers for a truck motor.
Thanks for this. My steering box on my '83 Impala is leaking, so I'm planning my attack now.
@@turkeyssr If it's leaking at that top plate, try tightening it more and evenly, save some work and money sometimes. If it's leaking at the Pitman shaft seal, bad Joo-Joo.
@@x-man5056 I would have tried tightening the bolts first too, as you can tell right away if they just need torquing
@@campbellpaul I wouldn't leap that far, the gasket could be torn, cap could be cracked...but the first thing you try is a snug and a tug on those cap flange bolts. clean it, check it again. Simplest answers, always the best if effective. R&R that steering box not my idea of fun either.
I had a set of headers on a TBI motor... Don't do it. It makes changing the plugs almost impossible and they are constantly loosening up unless you use special hardware
I have the same generation truck it eats idler arms any suggestions?
This is why I rebuild the OEM... That way you know it is right.
Not to mention if you adjust it you will break the seal and redgear will void the warranty
Headers?? Why Not? Go for it!
Could it be as simple as just replacing a gasket or an o-ring? You could save $ and time.
As far as headers go...jba is better. Do not use the provided gaslets either.
Doesn't look like the gasket is installed properly. And the manufacturer OBVIOUSLY didn't test the product before sending it out
Should have went with PSC, NEVER MESS with RedHead Steering Gear Box$$$.
OK! I believe men should never wear flip flops anywhere except on a beach!! And NEVER,, EVER, while working on anything! Period!!
Slapping on sealer isn't the answer to everything. A proper gasket is in order
Looks like I’m putting a blue top in mine.
Cardone is new and has a lifetime warranty.
13:00 Why would a leaking product NOT be the fault of redheads? I can’t understand why you’re giving these guys all this forgiveness for selling you a POS product? They took your money. It better work. Look at all the time you’ve wasted.
Part only, no labor, is the standard warranty. You're aware of this before you start the job. If a labor warranty was included, they would just charge more for the part.
@@AT-wl9yq it’s totally up to redhead. Like I said, if their power steering pump is junk, or their faulty assembly is the reason the gasket is blown, then they should pay the labor. They have that written on their warranty and I’d stand my ground if I were this guy. Unless he knows something we don’t about why it’s leaking and why it may be his improper install or use.
@@JT-LV There's no reason to argue over something like this. In general, when dealing with reman parts, the standard is to expect less of a warranty in exchange for a cheaper price on a product that's not new. As a shop owner or manager, you just factor that into however you price the job. Everyone has to make their own decisions. The only point I'm really trying to make here is to a customer, this may seem like an unfair policy, but to a shop, this type of thing is normal, and we understand why.
However, "They have that written on their warranty and I’d stand my ground if I were this guy.". OK. If that's their policy, and its in writing, then I would agree with you. There may be some fine print as to what they consider to be a fair labor rate, and if it applies to a shop, or someone doing the work themselves. But either way, if its part of the warranty, then the customer should be paid labor. Its just rare that labor is part of a warranty on a reman part like this. I don't remember all of the details from the video, but I had to have missed it.
@@AT-wl9yq it’s not in the video, It’s in Redheads written warranty. Labor is at their discretion. When you buy a mechanical part you expect it to work. In this case fluid is gushing out of the top seal. To me that’s a clear case of a defective part. Family owned businesses like redhead are usually more customer oriented than the big chains, so I would expect them to repair this part or give this guy a new one. Who sells products that fail and then charges their customers to fix them?
Meanwhile, this guy “hopes” the replacement pump works while saying it’s not Redheads fault if it doesn’t. I’m completely confused by that mindset, hence my first comment.
Dude, you need impact tools.
This video just convinced me not to buy a Redhead. Can believe they had the balls to charge you. Sorry about your luck.
You should have just put a new gasket on it
Charging you for it is not standing behind it.
Great quality testing at Red Hat LOL😮
This is a terrible job with pulling that pitman arm.
Shame on the mess 🙀
That just shows poor quality control. They should have paid shipping and the repair. I'd never buy a red head brand. You could have rented a pitman arm puller.
So why do you never mess with the power steering box? Not only did you not even touch "why" but you didn't even mess with it. you just removed it and sent it out to be messed with by someone else. I hate misleading titles that waste my time.
looks like this is just a rebuilt gear box anywayb
This is a frightening video. Based on the evident mechanical skills, you probably shouldn’t mess with anything 🤦♂️.
You gave too much credit to redhead, regular 10k miles of driving would be 6-8 months and this thing failing shortly after those miles is big nono. First, redhead should send you new unit and take the old one with no questions asked. Of course I watch this video after contemplating if I should go with blue top or readhead.
If they are charging you to fix that shitty steering gear then they didn't stand behind it. If a "rebuilt" box is leaking after a year, I'd be throwing that box in the trash and going to another manufacturer.
Use a hydraulic puller,...
Leaks sucks....in old valid trucks...
I don't mean to be all negative, but I don't understand why Anyone would watch someone that's clearly just winging it. It's all over the internet, when doing my ls swap, I spent 3 times more time Watching hack videos trying to find correct informationvideos then doing the job. I've never seen or heard or been a part of a trade that this was allowed. It's like hiring a plumber to shoe your horse 🤕
David fryerBurger road kill work shop sandals
High fail rate from users in first 5k miles, ask for labor reimbursement. How is this no fault of redhead 12:20? They would never admit to a common problem.
👍👍👍👍
What a pile of junk, lmao.
Bet you feel good wasting all that time going back and swapping it again.
headers not worth the trouble money thrown away .
Scotty kilmer wanna be. " Here's why you never ....." Cringey af
His channel is pretty cool but not trying to be him. 👍
Need a torch man
They are not standing behind anything if you need to pay to have it fixed rofl....