BMW 530d F10/F11 ZF 8HP70 - DIY Transmission Service
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Whilst in the middle of repairing my broken timing chain we need to replace the transmission filter pan & refill the fluid. The ZF procedure is identical to that of the older ZF6HP boxes used on many cars, including my Range Rover TDV8.
The fluid was drained to reduce the weight of the transmission & also because the car has covered 165k and the fluid needs to be changed.
Actually you just changed 30-40% oil inside the gearbox,I know cuz Iv done it by myself.you can only drain out 3L oil out but the transmission has totally 8.7L inside.Thats why you've prepared two bottles of oil but only used one bottle.Change 30% oil has no difference with no change.
The correct way is,first do all things like you have done,start the engine let new and old oil mix together,then turn off the engine,use tube to drain oil inside from the injection port,which you ll see oil is still really dark.After tube have no oil to pour out,then fill in new oil again. You have to do these steps for 3-4 times,cuz each time you can only drain out and add in 1.5L oil to dilute oil oil.
When two bottles of new oil is about to run out,use an empty bottle to collect drained oil just in case, then add all new oil inside transmission.If thats not enough, at least we have some latest mixed oil as a supplement.
Finally we can use scan tool just like ISTA or anything else to check oil level just like you've done,ZF8hp70 should be checked when temperature between 30-40 degrees. After checking oil level,we can use new filling bolt which tightening torque is 35NM.All previous steps used old filling bolt and no worry about tightening torque.
Tips: Use magnet to make sure those oil pan bolts are made by steel, which tightening torque are 10NM.If not, that means bolts are made by aluminum,which means tightening torque is 4NM+45degrees.Dont be comfused,cuz 10NM isnt enough to hold aluminum bolt in position during several years drive,and do not reused those bolts.
tips2: Make sure four wheels are in the same level,cus wrong level causes wrong oil level,and the wrong oil level didnt show any warning lights until your transmission broken.
Hallo, nice video super job, especially without lift ! Just a tip : as the filling nut can be very tight, I always try to unscrew it before draining the oil. So if you really have a problem with that filling plug, you can drive the next days ! ... while looking for a solution.
Always good advice 👍😀
Pretty close to correct , your suppose to shift it in each gear starting with reverse for a min of 5 secs to allow each clutch hub to fill with fluid and its the fluid temp you need to know not the gearbox or pan housing. . Other than that good enough
Fill procedure is not wrong.
1 Wait till engine temp is aboven 75c to open up the gearbox oilcooler. But gearbox not aboven 50c
2. 30seconds 2000 rpm in neutral to fill the turbine
Put on handbrake. Put in R, D and 2nd gear all 10 seconds.
Thanks
Seeing as you don't get all the fluid out the torque converter, you could think about doing the same again sometime
Indeed 👍
Great video !!! Straight to the point without all the BS like the last one I viewed!!!🎉
I did mine on a x3 f25 at 80000 km but used the original bmw zf oil and original pan(around £400) ,it took 4,8 liters also used one of those pumps to suck out engine oil just reverse inlet/outlet ports and pump oust from the can, you can get those pumps for about £10.
I’ve got one 👍
I used it to do a quick oil change on the Range Rover last year.
A cheap little electric screwdriver that takes hex bits is so useful for jobs like this when you're working alone. The fluid didn't look terrible so I'm guessing it's been changed before considering the mileage and the fact the filler plug had been tightened by someone hamfisted 😂
My thoughts too 👍
I avoid using power tools on these jobs as I’m always a bit afraid of wrecking the thread as it’s an aluminium casing. I’m sure I’m just being a big pussy, but I could do without extra headaches right now... 😂
Hi m8 cracking vid as usual . My question is when going through the gears your car is on the ramps how is it not driving off ? I will be doing this with a range rover sport when I get it and dont understand how I would do this unless all 4 corners are on axle stands . Cheers
You do it with the handbrake applied. Also, my car was ratchet-strapped to the ramps for added safety 👍
You only need to engage each gear for about 10s each (the wheels don’t turn).
You can actually do your RRS with the wheels on the ground - I did my FFRR with the suspension on highest setting AND axel stands underneath for safety - please NEVER work under a RR relying on just the air suspension 👍
Put your foot on the brakes?
@@Nut_Job. ok thanks for getting back
Effectively the gear selection is bleeding the hydraulic circuit. The driveshaft need not move for the clutch or brake hydraulic circuit for that gear to be pressurized force air out.
Lifetime fluid.. aka 100K or when the main dealer warranty expires. Great job. Tough nut to tackle on the drive. Props to ya! 👍🏾
Would be interested if you noticed any difference in the shift pattern as ZF advise to reset the gear shift adaptations etc??? Mine is on 153K miles so I am also considering this soon.
Yes I know that the correct process is to reset adaptations so that the transmission can adapt to the fluid viscosity. I haven’t done it, and it still changes perfectly to be honest.
How many liters of fluid did you filled back. I also made change and the first filling was 3ltr and then went 1 extra.
Cheers does it shift any better now though?
It shifts perfectly now 👍
There wasn’t really any problems before, but you can’t hardly feel the changes at all 😀
Regarding the fluid quantity - don’t forget I had removed the transmission & drained the torque converter. That’s why I got about 6/7 litres back in 👍
Well done nut job and a great great job 👍🏻 Looking forward to seeing the road test 😆
I thought it was only me who said "fucking hell" after undoing a tight bolt. 😀
Haha 😆 Always
Nice job, thank you for sharing! How many liters of fresh oil did you end up filling in?
I had my F11 530D gearbox service carried out by ZF in germany, they also did the rear Diff as well even though BMW say thats lifetime. So do the rear diff while your at it
Yes, it’s on my list 👍
sim rai Did it cost much? Im looking to have my x5 done
Yes, I did both mine on my 520D at 180k km. I rang ZF in Germany and they recomended changing both at 100k km.
I think another person commented it cost ~€600 with ZF. I think that might be at a service centre in Germany though, so you’ll have to factor that in too...
@A S I had mine done in Dortmund, They sucked out all the oil from gearbox and torque converter. They stripped the valve body and cleaned out all the small channels and replaced those small ball-bearings and some electronic parts. Then refilled it and did the diff. This was last year and was around 500 euros
Hi how did u lift car up? Does car need to be on same level to measure oil level? Or Just lift up front is okay? Thx
If you watch the series of videos which lead up to this you will see how I lifted the car up & secured it to wood blocks. Yes the car must be level for the transmission oil filling procedure.
I have a question, i saw the some thread that the parking brake should be released when moving the gear,. but you did not release it.
isn't there any difference between them? anyhow i am watching all your uploaded videos, i am considering you are god of DIY..😄
Lol, I’m certainly no god of DIY - I just don’t like paying others to do things that I think I could do... 😂
The reason you have to change gears during the fill process is because the ZF 8HP boxes are operated by ATF fluid pressure. By selecting the different gears you are getting the box to open different solenoid valves (to send fluid to the different clutch packs) so I don’t see how the park brake would affect any of that. 🤷♂️
Hi can you tell me how many oil need BMW 523i f10 2010 for 8 speed automatic (gearbox) .
I think it’s about 8.5 litres of ZF Lifeguard8 if you drain everything including the trans cooler.
Totally how many liter fill?
Is there any need to do the mechatronic sleeve like the 6hp box?
To be honest, I’m not sure. I didn’t read much about it (unlike with the ZF 6HP’s) so I left it alone. I found this gearbox very easy to work with overall
its usually done at the same time, as its cheap and needs pan down to do. If a mechatronics o-ring fails, it leaks and its a drain and drop pan job all over again. The o-rings go hard and flatten with age.
I noticed you didn’t change the connector seal sleeve when you changed the filter pan, Is it safe to say if it’s not bad it’s ok..??
Well... I suppose if you want to eliminate the possibility of a future fluid leak you could do it at the same time. I just chose not to due to time/cost as I was in the middle of getting the timing chain repair finished at that time.
You really need to get the oil going back in as soon as the engine is started. Then check the temp before the final level check
If I may say a little critic, you did not follow the correct procedure this is why I would suggest to check the level again after driving and reaching the proper temperature as described by someone else below. Now, from what I heard about the mileage of this vehicle, I think you should have replace the plastic flange which tends to brake with time and heat , a very cheap part but you need to pull a tab form the bottom plate. I also think you should have done much more to that gearbox when it was out of the body, like removing the bottom plate (by removing the largest bolts on that plate) to access to the seals an replaced them. It s a 30 minutes job on the bench and 3 hours from your setting on your driveway.
Yes, I will be checking the level again - I am away from home for a while again now....
Unfortunately there were other time constraints which I haven’t discussed meaning I had to choose what tasks to complete in the available time. The same is often true on many big jobs - how far can/do you take it...?
Personally, I really would have preferred to package the gearbox & sent it off for a full rebuild at a ZF transmission specialist - but time (& money) meant that wasn’t possible unfortunately.
I believe the part I got wrong on the filling process was not getting the engine oil temperature up to ~75°C to allow the cooler interlock to open. The transmission fluid in the pan was in the correct temp range, but that’s only part of it. I actually knew about this too, and completely forgot during the process... sorry 😬
@@Nut_Job. We all have to do what we have to do as you said, point well taken. And we all make mistakes, me the first, I should say! ! We all love your videos and your persistent and optimistic personality. Keep doing it! Thank you for the reply.
@@Nut_Job. its the transmission temp which should be 75c not the engine temp. The zf procedure mentions to fill with extra 0.5lt of fluid, drive the car until it reaches 75c, then wait for the transmission temp to drop to 30c and then rev the engine at 2k rpm for 30 seconds, then sift through gears R, N, D 1 and 2, finally add fluid if needed or allow fluid to drain out.
Brilliant. Love your channel
I've just ordered a zf filter and 8 litres of the equivalent liqui moly transmission fluid.... Do you think it will be ok to use that?
Absolutely 👍
As long as it says it is suitable for the ZF8HP transmission (Lifetime 8 ATF). Don’t confuse it with the older ZF6HP fluid - this is definitely different
On F10 the filter is built into the sump
Well done, all good now then. Surprised the oil isn't red as auto transmission fluid usually is?
Yeah, the ZF Lifetime 8 fluid is a green/yellow colour I think
ZF 6 also yellow
@@Nut_Job. your all ready now to get that remap that you wanted to do. That will be interesting to see how you get on with it
Most European cars use hydraulic fluid for the transmission gold looking.
your video didn't show you drain the tranny fluid before removing the pan, did I miss something?
Nice. Transmission filling is never easy straight forward is it!? Also a tip I use is when you have a number of bolts to torque up i use a permanent marker to mark it to keep my sanity in check!
Yes, that’s a good recommendation 👍
I was planning to do that when I tightened my head bolts... however, once I started I was so focused on the task I just continued without stopping 😁
Since the old fluid is drained and the service kit comes with a new fill plug..........is it possible that the full plug. Am be removed AFTER the pan is dropped. For that matter if the old pan is removed and your getting a new pan and fill plug bolt anyway, why not just thread the new plug to the new pan. You could keep control of the fill plug and maybe not tighten the plug as tight as normal.
This allows easy removal of the pan while still controlling the plug tightness until fluid is completely filled then get the final torque of the fill plug.
Hi, where did you find the torque specs for everything that needed that ? If you dont mind me asking ? Cheers
Everything you need can be found at www.newtis.info/ 👍
Thank you !
Fucking hellllllllllllll 😂😂😂😂😂
So you just mix new oil with old oil not proper way of changing oil.
You will need a machine to pump the new fluid through the system if you want to do it ‘properly’… so that’s really a job for the pros 🤷♂️
Otherwise you can try something like this to DIY…
how many litres in total did you put in?
my dealer said mine need 8,5
Thanks for video , does bmw f11 530d 2010 have transmission oil dipstick?
Any way to check if its been changed,by looking at color, thanks
No, you won’t really be able to tell. The only give-away might be if the transmission filter pan (black plastic) looks newer/less dirty or old than the rest of the transmission system?
you should change all that black sump for a new one, there's a filter in the middle and just pour the oil
Just another innocent observation.
If there is not enough room to get a full ratchet/socket combination on the fill plug, how is there enough room to get the syringe of new fluid?
Would a pass thru ratchet get a better fit and torque than the bit by itself with a screwdriver?
I ask this because if the old fill plug gets stripped and you have a new pan and fill plug with the service kit why go to extreme methods to remove a fill plug that is most likely going to be tossed anyway?
The full plug isn’t part of the replacement kit. It’s part of the aluminium housing on the side. There is just enough space to poke a bendy tube from my filling syringe, but tricky with a ratchet - although if I just had a normal set of Allen keys to hand that probably would have been ok.
How did you level the floor to keep the car level? Is there any place we can put a level? to guide us
I had the car raised off the driveway on ramps with blocks of wood, so I just put a spirit level between the blocks to check. It’s only approximate, but good enough for the fluid fill-level 👍
感謝
I've done my research and will do mine next week. I found all the oil, pan and filter codes from the ZF website and got the exact pan and oil that they recommend from Eurocar parts. What is your thoughts on the remaining fluid that you didn't get out.? Also how much did you change? Do you think after getting up to between 30-50° you can shut off the engine until you get more oil in then start it again when it flows out just to give you more time to fill it? Great video 👍
I had considered the ‘dilution method’ where you can repeat the drain/fill process 2/3 times until the box is mostly full of fresh fluid. The perfect way would be to use a machine at a garage which pumps the fluid around to complete the flush/change... but this is obviously the best we can do from a DIY approach 👍
I agree, unless you have high end dealer equipment and 20+ ltrs of oil then this the best method. How much did your box take? I wanna get as much out as possible.
If you stop the engine whilst filling up the fluid drops back to the pan and would come out of the filler plug .
Great job, but i wont start doing it on my own 😄
How many litre ?? For may f10 a get 5 litre only
Greate video. Do you have a link on where to buy a pump like yours? And the torque wrench too.
It was a real simple fluid transfer pump from eBay I think
How many litres drain? And how many you put back in?
Have you considering to change the megatronic gasket tubes and the electric plug seal( often leak come from there)!
What oil use for refill??
Yes, it’s a good idea to replace the 4 mechatronic seals & the main electrical connector seal. I realised that someone had already done them on this gearbox so I didn’t replace them. I think I used Vaico ATF when I did this job.
@@Nut_Job. i was do that procedure on zf6hp, but like i see, it's the same for zf8hp. I drive f11 from 2 weeks time, i see on the paperwork that gearbox been serviced in 2018, but i feel something like fluctuations sometimes, and little loss in the power when i drive slowly with 30mph , is like coming fuel , stopping fuel for a few seconds. Then i hit the gas pedal and the car run like bullet. I am little confused , because that could be dirty fuel filter or gearbox make jokes with me. Twice i saw message gearbox fault, after that just dissappear, nothing change during the drive....
How is the fluid holding up? I see that your using vaicos fluid and not ZFs fluid just wondering if you ran into any issues with the Vaico fluid
No issues at all so far. Probably done about 8k since that ATF change
im glad i see a napkin after you read my reply , infinity always was the backup premium for humanity...
Great video once again, I had a look AUTODOC they charge almost £45 extra for the fill plug on the kit but if in it the pan which comes with new bolts and oil I could save £45, do I need to replace the fill plug? I’m not going to cheap out if I need to but it seems a bit daft to spend extra £45 for fill plug.
The fill plug comes with the new filter pan. It’s only a low-torque plastic plug anyway - but it comes with the new pan anyway 👍
Is this the same for 520i f10?
How many litres do you need to fill. I mean how many did you used.
Where is the actual filter then?
They’re built into the pan on these ZF boxes.
165k miles?? First fluid change? How was the gearbox after the change?
Doing mine at 100k miles
Good call, I’d agree 100k is a reasonable interval.
Had I owned it longer I certainly would have changed it earlier too. TBH it may have had an ATF change prior to me doing it, however there was no evidence of this.
In all honesty I didn’t notice much of a difference, but it wasn’t showing any issues beforehand anyway. I like the peace of mind though 😊
You feel anything different when this was done do u have links to the parts
Great vid, would this be the same procedure on an Audi Q7 ? It's the same transmission I think
Almost certainly, but please check to be certain 👍
@@Nut_Job. Great mines done 100k so I think it's ready how much was the kit and oil all together?
I paid about £180 on AUTODOC if I remember correctly. I ordered some other bits at the same time like my fuel filter, oil filter, cabin filter etc 👍
I used Vaico fluid which is compatible with the the ZF 8HP boxes
Great video...
But did you fit new sprockets as I can't remember you saying so... assume there in with the chain kit.?
Oil sprocket looked to have very low tooth height
Yes, the sprockets are part of the kit 👍 the oil pump chain doesn’t really have any tension on it though, but obviously it’s pretty crucial to the engine!
good job, how many liters oil is takes?
Nice video. Howcome you didn't remove the mechatronic unit and replace the value body sleeves and mechatronic sleeve? Just curious as I have bought to do my transmission on e81
Only because I was on a tight budget and short on time, otherwise I would have done it 👍
I was planning to do the same job on the ZF6HP box on the Range Rover too
Xlant sir👌👌👌🙏🇮🇳
I thought transmission fluid was a cherry colour in bmws my friend?
Not in ZF 8 speed trans, its a green to clear colour more like a very light gear oil with an additive to allow the frictions to slip.
Why is it necessary to replace the oil pan? Will it leak from the bolts otherwise?
No, it’s because the transmission filter is integrated into the filter pan & you replace it as a whole unit 👍
how many km done? after I need otomatik transmission
Guys check out the MANNOL ATF AG60 oil. It meets all requirements for the ZF 6-8HP and it's only 70€ for 20l.
I’ve used Mannol fluids for a number of jobs 👍
Just check that it meets the spec you need & very often good prices 😀
Hi , how much fluid does it takes
when I need otomatik transmission 2014 BMW 530D gran trusmo
Every 60k km
Thank you. Just what I needed to see.
is it a difficult job ? l ask my dealer to have it done on my f10 and they refused me very elegant
i was asking about the same with mine BMW Dealer and he said that they not recomend this as when they did customers have issues with they gearbox
The thing is, ZF & BMW officially state that the ATF is sealed for life so they can’t really start offering to change transmission fluid for customers. There is also some truth that some gearboxes may experience slipping after a fluid change if the clutch packs are quite worn - this is because the old fluid has a lot of the old clutch material floating in it & it helps them ‘bite’ but when you flush it all away & fill with fresh clean fluid it may then slip if the clutch packs have lost too much material.
Although saying that, my ZF8HP had over 165k miles on it & it drove fine after a fluid service!
@@Nut_Job. Thanks Man
How much oil did you put in?
Is it the same on a manual transmission?
Hi guys I saw this man on television!!!
I was told that the auto box on my 2016 518d was sealed for life?
Yes, they say that but really once you’re well over 100k it’s a good idea to change the fluid & filter 👍
I drained mine the other day , 730d zf 6hp26, fluid was black coming out ,never been changed. I have refilled it now and will change it again in a week to get as much of the old fluid out as possible. That says lifetime fluid , I don't believe anything is lifetime
Quick question is the filter built in to the pan.
Yes 👍
Is it on N Or P when put Rest in?
It was in P when I did the final fill
Excellent vids! May I request catch can install? Would like to do one on my N57
Yeah, I was considering that when the timing chain went bang. I’ll put it back on the list 👍
Sweet look forward to it, no videos presently on UA-cam for installation or even premade kits available, could be an opportunity for your first sponsored video!
Really? I haven’t looked, but that’s surprising isn’t it? 🤔
Did you lift only front of the car ?
No, in this case I had all 4 wheels on ramps (it’s important to have the car level)
@@Nut_Job. ok thanks mate, i don't really have facilities for that, i might just go to garage (definitely not bmw :D)
Hello. I really liked your video. I would like to know if changing the gearbox oil is really necessary to change the lower cover or if we can use it. thanks!
The transmission oil pan has the fluid filter built into it, so if you are going to all the effort of replacing the fluid then you really should change the filter pan at the same time.
I know ZF 8 gearbox oil is expensive, did you have any issues with using aftermarket oil ? How much cheaper was it. You got a link where you got it from ?
So I looked into decent aftermarket alternatives to the ZF Lifetime 8 ATF and settled on Vaico ATF 8HP as I know the brand & trust them to be good quality. I’ve had no issues at all - probably done about 6000 miles so far. I think the best price was actually from a seller on eBay, but it’s worth checking on the web.
Do you have link for the service kit
I actually bought all my service items on Autodoc.co.uk
The company are based in Germany and it doesn’t come that quickly (7-10 days) however there is a wide variety of parts available for every vehicle 👍
👍
How accurate is the temp gun when measuring the temperature before the final fill?
It’s pretty close actually. You can calibrate it using boiler water or melting ice 🧊
@@Nut_Job. you're looking for the temperature of the oil inside the transmission no? My guess would be that the filter pan being measured on the outside is not going to give an accurate oil temperature inside.
Yeah you’re right, it’s obviously not an accurate measurement of the oil but it’ll be within a few degrees. The filter pan is only plastic so it’s not far out. Remember you’re trying to get the oil to the lower end of the temp range to begin the filling process - which must be done with the engine running, so it will continue to heat up while filling. The only other alternative is to use more advanced diagnostic equipment to read the Transmission temps like the dealer would 👍
I’ve got 87k miles on the clock and looking to do a service on my f11 transmission when the weather gets a little warmer. I’ve got ista+ which should help with the temperature. Great video as a guide, thank you.
Absolutely, in your case I’d definitely use ISTA+ to check transmission fluid temps. I was just trying to show others who don’t have ISTA or any other diagnostic tools an alternative method 👍
i didn't noticed the torque wrenche?
Really? I talk & show it from 8:53 👍
@@Nut_Job. plaplapla tunomites
can't you write it?
Great video. Comment: when using torque wrench hold it at the handle and not at neck. You should keep length of arm given by physical dimension of tool.(and marked as handle area).
Shortening of arm length by improper grip result in lower induced torque.
No flushing ?
In my case the box was mostly empty (perhaps ~3l still inside) and flushing is not so easy as a DIY on the drive. What I’ve done previously is repeat the drain/fill process after about a week which further dilutes & replaces most of the old fluid.