Best Training Board in The World? | Lattice Training
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- Опубліковано 11 гру 2021
- Is this the best training board in the world? Coaches Josh and Jen have a training session on what is certainly the most impressive and expensive training board they have climbed on. We are of course talking about the adjustable Kilter Board.
We know training boards are an excellent training tool, great for developing finger strength, power and tension. However these days there are many commercial training boards to choose from as well as thousands of custom setups.
So what makes a good training board good? We discuss some of the pros and cons of this board including resin vs wood, hold size and shape and size of foot holds. Every style of board has its purpose and perhaps the Kilter board is not for you, so what is your option? What is your 'best training board’?
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I really like the Kilterboard, found the holds were a good compromise between friction and skin wear, not too sandpapery. Nothing like a good woodie though. We're really lucky to have excellent LED woodies at our gym (Boulders Cardiff) with a good mix of slopers, pinches, and crimps. Really addictive.
Double vote for tension board. I’ve never climbed on a board that forced you to be precise and strong like a tension board.
After doing mostly 2017 moonboard layout, found a Kilter nearby and it's so much better. Yes the holds have more friction and cost some skin, but especially from 7a or harder the holds on the moonboard are so aggressive to the fingers it's difficult to do a quality session that's over an hour or so. On kilter it's no problem to train hard for two hours.
And in so many gyms the moonboard LED lights are out of order because of one dead LED (when one is defect nothing works anymore).
Also when you are in a boulder it's hard to see the lights for the footholds on a moonboard while it's much better on a Kilterboard.
In my opinion, the Kilterboard has taken all good aspects of the moonboard and made them even better and removed some problems.
The only big disadvantage of the Kilterboard is the price.
Thanks Frank. I (Josh) totally agree with the harder problems being quite aggressive on a MoonBoard. The Kilter feels safer on my fingers, which have always been on the weaker side. I could however see an argument for wanting slightly more aggressive holds, if your outdoor climbing has a similar style, allowing you to keep exposed to that specific style. "Horses for courses"
@@LatticeTraining I agree with that! Near Frankfurt, Germany we have granite and many projects have aggressive crimps as crux and for those, holds as on the moonboard are perfect.
For me the Tension Board is the best board that I have climbed on, the wooden holds are all spot on and super comfy, very lucky to have one at my climbing gym in Cambridge, I believe it is the only commercial board setup in the UK.
I do like the LED lights on the Kilter however!
Good to see a vote for Tension. I (Josh) have never climbed on a Tension Board but would love to give it a go.
I’ve heard complaints about the app. Do you have any issues with it at all?
Might have to make a mission up to Cambridge to try it out.
@@WildlifeZambezi There were some teething problems when switching from the old App to the new version when it was released earlier this year, I think most of these issues have been ironed out and they do regularly release updates which is good, it certainly does everything I want it to do.
I really like the Tension Boards symmetrical layout. It feels like systematic way to build strength. Almost more like weightlifting.
I love the kilter board , I don’t think it’s about having a “favourite” I think it’s about using the right tool for the job. In this case the right type of board for your project. I find each board , the tension, moon and kilter vary in style and specificity. So it really comes down to the climber to pick which one suits them for their training at the time.
Thanks Martin. That's the right answer of course, they all have their strong suit and are just training tools.
Love the Kilter! Jen making it look too easy as usual.
Kilter - moon - tension
Haven’t tried the new Daniel woods board or the grasshopper.
The 70 degree option makes the kilter goated.
The asymmetry is also great! ❤❤❤
Kilter board is my favorite. The lights are the easiest to see, I love the size of the board, and the holds are my favorite. The tension board isn’t bad either but the lights are hard to see up close.
For me, all the holds on the kilterboard just feel the same. I personally prefer a good spray wall.
Moonboard is life
the gym that has kilter board for me, has the board placed under direct sunlight so the light from the holds are hard to see unless it's dark outside. which sucks :(
well if it pisses with rain the whole time I next come back to the uk (which it did last time), I guess ill be coming back to Sheffield for another gym tour
Would be interesting to see how the kilter home wall layout compares. Sounds like the aux line for it has smaller holds? (I haven't used either; just watched some videos)
I'd also selfishly like to see a similar video with a tension board because I think I'm going to build one at home, but either way enjoyed the video for sure. Always killer content from you all
Hi Ben! Yes the Homewall layout is denser and has more smaller holds, especially the Aux line. We've found it's very possible to train hard on the Original KB but it sounds like you may prefer the Homewall layout if you want to focus on smaller grips. : )
@@KilterClimbingGrips Appreciate the response! Yeah, I was mostly mentioning the grip sizes because of something said in the video (don't remember exactly what; my memory sucks--lots of head trauma over the years)
I'm relatively new to climbing and 100% certain you can train way harder on an original kilterboard than I'm capable of. I just haven't been able to climb on one. I think the closest I saw to St. Louis is four hours out, and just haven't had the time. I was also leaning towards wood grips and symmetry because it seems to line up with the way I like to train for other sports.
That said, the reason I don't have a home board yet is because I can't make up my mind, lol. Still super tempted by the 7x10 original KB layout because I'm sure I could meet my training goals, the board just looks super fun, and if I cranked it up to almost vertical I think I could blow my eight year old nephews mind and make it easier to con him into climbing in between minecraft sessions ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
@@doorhammer Yes the ability to put the board to vertical for newer climbers is pretty key for many home and gym users. If you're ever in Colorado come visit and you can compare the layouts!
What gym is this, this place looks absolutely amazing
This is Awesome Walls Sheffield. It has traditionally been a "go to" lead climbing facility with a great overhanging lead comp wall. They often hold national comps here. Home Board for the win!
Kilter ❤
Interestingly, it seems that sit starts are not really a thing with the kilter board. Or is that just because the kicker on this particular one is massive?
This one has a massive kicker.
@@tapichu the tall kickboard is necessary for a board that tilts down to 70°. If you have a shorter kickboard then the floor is too close at 60° and steeper. The cool solution is to overhang the kickboard. We have one here with a 45° overhanging kickboard and it’s very cool. We’ll have that on one of our next boards
Best board is a combo of plastic and wooden, but like the really old weird plastic holds that aren't perfectly manicured for holding forces the weird grip positions that emulate outdoor holds. I've never climbed on the kilter but heard they're kind on the ego...
whats the consensus on grades on lets say moon vs kilter board - i get up the right 6b+ on the moonboard wiith some projecting but i feel im probably better than a 6b+ boulderer and on the other side i can do some of the 7a's on the kilter board in one session and flash some 6c+'s but i dont think im that ''good' of a boulderer either
I'd be interested in hearing the consensus on kilters soft at 40 degree, stiff at 60+ degree thing it seems to have going on. On the other side, Moonboard often seems stiff.
IMO (Josh writing), the MoonBoard is really tough for the grade, compared to outdoor grades. The Kilter is probably a little softer than outdoor grades. However I am not very good at 'indoor' climbing compared to outdoor climbing, I always climb harder outside. Probably a technique or experience thing.
@@MythAvatar Yep, Moonboard is stiff and pretty much everyone I've spoke too agrees. This makes the Kilter soft in comparison (at 40 degrees). Its just soft compared to board gradings which I quite like because IMO it lines up better with outdoor gradings. But you are right, the kilter gets harder as it gets steeper (relative to grade). I'm not sure why this is. Maybe the kind of climbers that take it the board to 60+ degrees are just really strong.
For me its the other way. I climb v3-4 in my gym. I Flashed i couple of 6b+,6c on the moon. Climbed alot of 6b+, 6c, some 6c+ on the 40 moon 2016. But i already get spanked on 6a kilter problems.
@@jeanpaulooopsn5976 Strong af, but no technique?
How is the grading compared to the Moonboard ? I mean 7c on the moonboard is really hard and you guys are crushing it on the kilterboard. I think lattice coaches have to be this strong🤯keep it up
For me a 7c benchmark on the moonboard feels like an 8a+ on the kilterboard. So if you're having a bad day, train on the kilterboard 😅
@ holy shit haha, thx a lot man💪🏽:D
As a tall human I enjoy that the Kilter can be filtered for tall climbs. The climbing community is generally great about not treating reach as a route requirement, but pretty shit at doing the same for small boxes.
If every climb is set up for a small box crux for a short to normal height person, it just won't be possible for me and there's nothing to learn from it.
Obviously it's gonna happen but it's frustrating when every route on a board has functionally the same "crux", and it's not something you can learn your way out of.
Do you have to touch every hand hold or foot hold for it to count?
Nope!
2016 moonboard is the best board
The 2016 set was great! Have you tried the newest set with wooden holds?
@@LatticeTraining Not yet. Hope to soon. How do you think it compares to the 2016?
@@anthonyb3940 I like the wood holds, much nicer on the skin and more finger friendly. But the 2016 is kind of iconic and still a favourite!
Haven't yet tried the Kilter, but I look forward to climbing on the steeper angles, as roof boulders outside always draw my eyes. I don't really like the Moonboard, as the holds are all similar, and the wall is too small, you end up using the same holds for everything, and so many problems involves crosses, and t-rex style climbing, which as a taller person tend to be harder, and in time injury provoking.
Really, I prefer a good spraywall. The one we have in Copenhagen Boulders is massive, and I'm always inspired to create new problems on it.
I'm nowhere near good enough to complain about the lack of difficulty on the kilter, but it could benefit from a different hold set with smaller or more unusual hand holds for the advanced climber. Aside from that, the design is cleanest of the major system boards. I also suppose the proximity of the movement to "actual" climbing makes this a nice option for a compact all-rounder home climbing setup (if you can afford it).
Check out our Homewall Layout!
For some reason I'm almost a number in font grade worse at moonboard compared to kilter
Both the moonboard and the kilter have their downsides. Moonboard is almost too fingery and too small variety (on the newest set there aren't any underclings except a few for starting), the kilter has too many jugs and everything is basically an incut edge that really favours full crimping and generating force out of the wall which sucks if this is your style. I would say the best board is a good, well set spray wall and a few friends to come up boulders with. The spray wall is just physical, technical and has more variety.
agree, i absolutely love a spray wall, my favourite sessions have been on spray walls. unfortunately none of my local gyms have one
Honestly, people are kinda used to being sandbagged by other boards. Sure, the Kilter board has got its soft problems, but, every board does.
Watching the video, they call it soft, but didn't see a lack of try-hard full-crimping in this session.
I like the Kilter for all the reasons everyone has said, but I also think, despite the sheer number of holds, the variety is a bit limited. And they are really missing a trick by not having MB-style benchmarks, in my view. The grades on the Kilter are all over the place, as Jen hinted at when she climbed that soft V8. People say grades don't really matter on training boards, and that's true, but at the same time they're a good way to monitor progression and to make sure you're picking problems at the right level if you've not tried them before. The Moon grades are so stiff it's become a meme but at least the benchmark system means they're consistently stiff and consistency is a big plus IMO.
We have been working on benchmarks, we'll call them Verified Climbs. There are 15 angles and then all the grades so it's been taking a while to get a good launch set agreed upon!
Would love to try a kilterboard but nobody has one here. The moonboard is absolute trash for the fingers. Do like two problems and my fingers are destroyed. No thanks.
Good video, but you only went through the Kilter board. Didn't really cover anything else
Thanks Shane! In this case we were just posing the question "is the Kilter Board the best" as we've heard this said a few times. The answer is of course, it depends! All boards have their place and "the best" is just an option thing.
Imagine how hard Josh could climb without regripping every single hold 😅
I think the grades are not accurate after 65 degrees, some boulders are V8 at 45 and at 70 they difficulty goes down to V6. Even the kilter studio setters have that problem, so I guess people has to be aware because you can get injured climbing something way harder that the grade display in the app.
The grades are consensus so will even out with time. It’s worth noting that steeper doesn’t’t always mean harder-sometimes you can hang more and it’s actually easier at a steeper angle.
And God Created one board it is called the Tension Board. The mirroring of problems and regularity/softness of the wood beats by 1000X any other board.
The moon board is nice if you want to kill your fingers *_*
Imagine matching on a board climb
Moon moon moon
Kilter is cool but moon is cooler
Hard to warm up on Moon board though. Kilter holds feel better too.