Ah sorry i didn't reply sooner - been away from the channel a bit lately with other things! I'm back now though.... Hope the video helped with your engine - How'd it go?? I just started mine for the first time in 6 months and she fired up straight away no problem :) Good engines!
@@savingsusanna well... My head was no good so i got another off of eBay. Pistons and rings looked good so put it all back together but it doesn't want to start very well. It did start eventually but not what I'm looking for. I've had the head off again and lapped the valves, put it back on. Just need to get the valve clearance correct now and I'll try it again. I'm a complete amateur at this stuff but.... I'm getting to know my engine inside out. Literally! 😁
Just spotted your restoration on UA-cam and watched all seven episodes. A bit late now I know but in my 13 years of boat painting the best way is to use the best quality paint you can afford, use a roller to apply the paint and lay off the paint with a good brush working vertically. Don't lay off horizontally, with the best will in the world you will get lines as the paint tends to 'slump' - gravity! Hope that helps, good luck with finishing the project.
Ah cheers, That's great advice. I was trying to get the classic 'brush lines' a bit, but that didn't really happen and i did struggle with a bit of that 'Slumping' - I'll take your tip for sure - appreciated! :)
Cheers, and good luck! :) It's actually a pretty simple engine to work on. I did buy a Haynes manual for £30 - it wasn't haynes but something like that. it's worth having although if you're reasonably competent with engines you'd be grand. The Two things i'd mention off the top of my head are that the valve 'rockers' don't seem to be held on the little shaft by anything, that does seem to be how it's meant to be. 🤷 The new head gasket should have 'Top' or 'up' on it. Mine didn't so take note of the old one when you take it off (metal side down i think, but take note just in case) :) Other than that good luck, it's pretty easy & don't lose the little caps that go on the top of the valve stems :) All the best 👍
This story both gives me chills and brings back memories. I have been in an almost identical situation 40 years ago. It was my brother and me. The engine was also a Yanmar. Grinding valves and the difficulty of getting the engine into the boat. Very nicely told story.
Ah wow, what a thing! - and Roger and i do say sometimes, we'll look back on this. I hope your boat gave you some good times, as i hope ours will too. Cheers!
My 2QM15 Yanmar doesn't have a fuel return line to the tank either, it connects back in to the fuel filter housing on the engine. Nice job on rebuilding the engine.
13:11 : from another channel I remember about replacing engine mount whenever moving or replacing an engine. Especially since vibrations will otherwise cause issues. According to the manual of the Yanmar marine engines - which we men don't read 😆- the marine engine mounts must be replaced every 1000 hours or every 4 years.
Wow, at over £500 a time that's a lot! - I do get the need to have the engine stable though so not to cause damage. I suppose it's a case of 'Keeping an eye' on it... :)
10:50 Don’t worry about the smoke!!!!..... it won’t kill you!! (unless you happen to be an ECO-fanaticus).... And it works a treat against mosquitos!! Nice project,keep it up!!!! (thumb+subscripotion) Greetings,Henk,the Netherlands.
@@savingsusanna Obviously the heli wasn’t running... but with one of the two turbines down she will make a safe landing asap and that’s it.... Wherever she happened to be the turbine was to be replaced.... within 16 months this happened 5 times if I remember correctly.... (they suffered terribly from the dust;remember a helicopter’s downdraft is very strong!!) Me being the mechanic for the boats,vehicles,generator aso. I many times helped the Helicopter mechanic to replace the turbine (650Hp/100kg.... one fine piece of engineering!!!) a couple of times we used the hydraulic crane on one of our Unimogs but at some stage we used a chainblock hung up on one the four rotorblades (with lots of protection for the blade obviously...) piece of cake it was;blade sticking out,lift turbine,turn rotor until turbine in position and lower turbine onto mountingplates.... easypeasy!!! Although I can’t deny the Heli-mechanic seemed a bit jumpy that day..... Good memories.... DelftGeophysical,seismic research,Miandrivazo, Malaimbandy, Morovay, Majunga... all in Madagascar.... 1989/1990.
Left a comment about the exhaust elbow of a Yanmar 1GM10. Doesn't seem to have "stuck" so trying again without the website link in case that was the issue. I'd suggest a stainless steel elbow as I lost a 1GM10 for the corrosion failure of the OEM elbow. You can find online a US guy who's life seems to be making bespoke Yanmar engine elbows in stainless; mine cost £169 incl shipping (I'm not sponsored nor involved by them) you can search online for exhaust elbows stainless. A good investment after you're rebuild work. Cheers...John and happy sailing !
Hi, yeah i don't know why i missed your previous comment but website link may have been the issue 🤷 - anyway thank for re-doing it! I do understand the piece you mean, the elbow with the inner sleeve to separate the water, and i have seen the stainless steel ones you mentioned. I don't remember where but they were recommended because of the failure you talked about. Ours happens to be close to new, and so in good condition - for now! But the stainless steel one is almost certainly something i'll look into getting at some point, as you said, a good investment. Appreciate your reaching out with this, great advice. Cheers!
Careful after launch with that PSS shaft seal. If the fixed (non rotating) flange isn't the newer style, and doesn't have an air vent line the seal can air lock, meaning no lube water for the carbon to stainless seal. When you launch you'll have to 'burp' it to get water to the seal.
Cheers, really appreciate your advice 👍 - and naming the PSS seal, Knowing what something is called is a great help! By 'Burping' i assume it would be done by undoing the seal to let water through, then doing it up again? Thanks again for the advice, a great help. Cheers!
No worries testing the engine without cooling for a minute or two..... only part that doesn’t agree is the rubber impeller of the waterpump.... (ie. make sure it isn’t driven during the test...)
Ah cheers, that's a great bit of advice that i didn't know, appreciated! Fortunately it didn't have an impeller in it, but that's just by luck! I'll remember that for the future though. Thanks again :)
How's it going I know filmimg and all that shit is a pain but an update would make this old worn out painter a happy man best o luck cheers n beers Marty Australia
Not replacing the rear crankshaft seal, means that this will have to be removed, pulled down and have the seal replaced in short order. That was a corner that you should not have cut. gary in japan.
Ah yes Gary, you may well be right. I did look at that seal and knew that ideally it should be changed. I didn't have one or really the time to wait so i took the gamble knowing the engine is quite accessable in the boat as well as fairly easily removed. Not perfect but i needed to get the engine in to have a few weeks of the season in the water. And who knows, i may have been lucky! 🤞 Cheers! (Japan hey, cool! :) )
That was a bit of a criticism, but also a call out that on boats it is best to get ahead of a problem, because they raise their heads just when you really don't need them. Keep at it. I will be looking over your shoulder.all the best gary
You might have worked it out by now but the control lever attachment points for engine cables can be reversed behind the unit to change pull to push and vise versa . Could I also say the gate valves with wheels are notoriously bad news in a boat . Not mean to be picky 👍⛵
Thanks mate appreciated. I had thought something like that would be likely but didn't know. Thats good news! And yes, those wheeled valves are not ideal. The previous owner never used them, they were just connected to each other with a hose. It's on my mind to do something with them. Cheers!
Hi, yes - new piston and rings. It was smoking so much at the start because i was pulling the 'stop' leaver and so probably dumping lots of diesel in, as well as the oil i used in assembly burning off. She runs very cleanly now, thankfully! :)
Thank you very much. I use a Nikon Zfc with mostly the 16-50mm kit lens, although i sometimes use other lenses. Also just a Rode mic that sits on top of the camera with the fluffy (dead cat) cover thing. Cheers.
I don't really know to be honest... Around 250mm/10 inch diameter. I know there are some equations regarding propeller size and pitch, but we've swapped similar horsepower engines so we'll run her and see! :) 🤞
Essentially yes - although my diesel engineer friend said 30 is fine anyway. I did read in one of the manuals to use 30, but in another 15/40 🤷♂️ 30 for the gearbox is the right oil though.
Thanks mate. I'm swotting up on Yanmar videos before i rebuild my Gm10.
Just took it out the boat a couple of days ago. Cheers!
Ah sorry i didn't reply sooner - been away from the channel a bit lately with other things! I'm back now though.... Hope the video helped with your engine - How'd it go?? I just started mine for the first time in 6 months and she fired up straight away no problem :) Good engines!
@@savingsusanna well... My head was no good so i got another off of eBay. Pistons and rings looked good so put it all back together but it doesn't want to start very well. It did start eventually but not what I'm looking for.
I've had the head off again and lapped the valves, put it back on. Just need to get the valve clearance correct now and I'll try it again.
I'm a complete amateur at this stuff but.... I'm getting to know my engine inside out. Literally! 😁
Just spotted your restoration on UA-cam and watched all seven episodes. A bit late now I know but in my 13 years of boat painting the best way is to use the best quality paint you can afford, use a roller to apply the paint and lay off the paint with a good brush working vertically. Don't lay off horizontally, with the best will in the world you will get lines as the paint tends to 'slump' - gravity!
Hope that helps, good luck with finishing the project.
Ah cheers, That's great advice. I was trying to get the classic 'brush lines' a bit, but that didn't really happen and i did struggle with a bit of that 'Slumping' - I'll take your tip for sure - appreciated! :)
Ill be pulling my head off my yanmar 1gm10 to service it in the coming months so this was a pleasure to watch!
Cheers, and good luck! :) It's actually a pretty simple engine to work on. I did buy a Haynes manual for £30 - it wasn't haynes but something like that. it's worth having although if you're reasonably competent with engines you'd be grand. The Two things i'd mention off the top of my head are that the valve 'rockers' don't seem to be held on the little shaft by anything, that does seem to be how it's meant to be. 🤷 The new head gasket should have 'Top' or 'up' on it. Mine didn't so take note of the old one when you take it off (metal side down i think, but take note just in case) :) Other than that good luck, it's pretty easy & don't lose the little caps that go on the top of the valve stems :) All the best 👍
Well done on rebuilding the engine proof of the pudding is when it runs so well when in the boat Happy days 😊😊
Happy days indeed! Yes, i was really pleased with that. It's important to have confidence in your boat engine i feel! Cheers!
You are doing a great job on the whole project. Well done ! You seem to have all the right skills to have good success.
That´s fine. Now you have a working motor. Lets see what will happen next. Thank you for giving us your knowledge. Waiting for next.
Cheers! :)
Nice job on the engine. Looking forward to the launch. Thx for another interesting video.
Thank you! And 🤞the launch in a couple of weeks.... :)
good job and i like this yacht - design classic....
I HOPE to see her on the water.
Cheers, and with luck she'll be in in a couple of weeks! 😬😁
This story both gives me chills and brings back memories. I have been in an almost identical situation 40 years ago. It was my brother and me. The engine was also a Yanmar. Grinding valves and the difficulty of getting the engine into the boat. Very nicely told story.
Ah wow, what a thing! - and Roger and i do say sometimes, we'll look back on this. I hope your boat gave you some good times, as i hope ours will too. Cheers!
Great video really enjoyed it. Glad the engine build went well for you. Looking forward to the next episode
Thank you, appreciated 🙏
You looked really happy with it running. Good for you.
Haha yeah, i noticed that! 😅 Looked like a child in a sweetshop! Cheers!
Nice work and a lovely running little engine!
Cheers! :)
My 2QM15 Yanmar doesn't have a fuel return line to the tank either, it connects back in to the fuel filter housing on the engine. Nice job on rebuilding the engine.
Ah brilliant, somebody else said something similar. I can check that out when i'm connecting everything up properly. Appreciated!
Congrats! Helpful video.
Nice video…iam watching from Amsterdam
Cool, just across the sea from me! :) Cheers!
13:11 : from another channel I remember about replacing engine mount whenever moving or replacing an engine. Especially since vibrations will otherwise cause issues.
According to the manual of the Yanmar marine engines - which we men don't read 😆- the marine engine mounts must be replaced every 1000 hours or every 4 years.
Wow, at over £500 a time that's a lot! - I do get the need to have the engine stable though so not to cause damage. I suppose it's a case of 'Keeping an eye' on it... :)
A boom and a topping lift to lift an engine? Damn. This goes directly into the footnotes of the next Joshua Slocum reprint.
Haha! :))
10:50 Don’t worry about the smoke!!!!..... it won’t kill you!! (unless you happen to be an ECO-fanaticus)....
And it works a treat against mosquitos!!
Nice project,keep it up!!!! (thumb+subscripotion)
Greetings,Henk,the Netherlands.
Haha yeah 💨 :) , Cheers Henk, & greetings back from England!
As a Bush-Mechanic I helped a couple of times changing the turbine on a Helicopter.... where you used the boom we used a rotorblade.....
Haha that's incredible! That must have been pretty bouncy - and a bit tense! 😬😅
@@savingsusanna Obviously the heli wasn’t running... but with one of the two turbines down she will make a safe landing asap and that’s it....
Wherever she happened to be the turbine was to be replaced.... within 16 months this happened 5 times if I remember correctly.... (they suffered terribly from the dust;remember a helicopter’s downdraft is very strong!!)
Me being the mechanic for the boats,vehicles,generator aso. I many times helped the Helicopter mechanic to replace the turbine (650Hp/100kg.... one fine piece of engineering!!!) a couple of times we used the hydraulic crane on one of our Unimogs but at some stage we used a chainblock hung up on one the four rotorblades (with lots of protection for the blade obviously...) piece of cake it was;blade sticking out,lift turbine,turn rotor until turbine in position and lower turbine onto mountingplates.... easypeasy!!!
Although I can’t deny the Heli-mechanic seemed a bit jumpy that day.....
Good memories.... DelftGeophysical,seismic research,Miandrivazo, Malaimbandy, Morovay, Majunga... all in Madagascar.... 1989/1990.
Left a comment about the exhaust elbow of a Yanmar 1GM10. Doesn't seem to have "stuck" so trying again without the website link in case that was the issue. I'd suggest a stainless steel elbow as I lost a 1GM10 for the corrosion failure of the OEM elbow. You can find online a US guy who's life seems to be making bespoke Yanmar engine elbows in stainless; mine cost £169 incl shipping (I'm not sponsored nor involved by them) you can search online for exhaust elbows stainless. A good investment after you're rebuild work. Cheers...John and happy sailing !
Hi, yeah i don't know why i missed your previous comment but website link may have been the issue 🤷 - anyway thank for re-doing it! I do understand the piece you mean, the elbow with the inner sleeve to separate the water, and i have seen the stainless steel ones you mentioned. I don't remember where but they were recommended because of the failure you talked about. Ours happens to be close to new, and so in good condition - for now! But the stainless steel one is almost certainly something i'll look into getting at some point, as you said, a good investment. Appreciate your reaching out with this, great advice. Cheers!
Careful after launch with that PSS shaft seal. If the fixed (non rotating) flange isn't the newer style, and doesn't have an air vent line the seal can air lock, meaning no lube water for the carbon to stainless seal. When you launch you'll have to 'burp' it to get water to the seal.
Cheers, really appreciate your advice 👍 - and naming the PSS seal, Knowing what something is called is a great help! By 'Burping' i assume it would be done by undoing the seal to let water through, then doing it up again? Thanks again for the advice, a great help. Cheers!
You might look into putting a smaller pulley on the alternator so you get a higher charge on tick overt and when manoeuvring at slow speed
That's a good shout that, thanks 👍
No worries testing the engine without cooling for a minute or two..... only part that doesn’t agree is the rubber impeller of the waterpump.... (ie. make sure it isn’t driven during the test...)
Ah cheers, that's a great bit of advice that i didn't know, appreciated! Fortunately it didn't have an impeller in it, but that's just by luck! I'll remember that for the future though. Thanks again :)
How's it going I know filmimg and all that shit is a pain but an update would make this old worn out painter a happy man best o luck cheers n beers Marty Australia
Haha - well my replies are a bit behind but glad i got another vid out soon after you writing this! Cheers Marty! 🍻
Not replacing the rear crankshaft seal, means that this will have to be removed, pulled down and have the seal replaced in short order. That was a corner that you should not have cut. gary in japan.
Ah yes Gary, you may well be right. I did look at that seal and knew that ideally it should be changed. I didn't have one or really the time to wait so i took the gamble knowing the engine is quite accessable in the boat as well as fairly easily removed. Not perfect but i needed to get the engine in to have a few weeks of the season in the water. And who knows, i may have been lucky! 🤞 Cheers! (Japan hey, cool! :) )
That was a bit of a criticism, but also a call out that on boats it is best to get ahead of a problem, because they raise their heads just when you really don't need them. Keep at it. I will be looking over your shoulder.all the best gary
Ah no, it was a good call. As you say, on boats you need things right as it's never a 'good time' when things decide to break! Cheers & all the best.
You might have worked it out by now but the control lever attachment points for engine cables can be reversed behind the unit to change pull to push and vise versa .
Could I also say the gate valves with wheels are notoriously bad news in a boat .
Not mean to be picky 👍⛵
Thanks mate appreciated. I had thought something like that would be likely but didn't know. Thats good news! And yes, those wheeled valves are not ideal. The previous owner never used them, they were just connected to each other with a hose. It's on my mind to do something with them. Cheers!
Did you put new pistons and new piston-seals in? I saw they were all rusty, and the engine is smoking an awful lot!!!
Hi, yes - new piston and rings. It was smoking so much at the start because i was pulling the 'stop' leaver and so probably dumping lots of diesel in, as well as the oil i used in assembly burning off. She runs very cleanly now, thankfully! :)
I like the handshake after the engine goes in - very british and not like this high five nonsense lol
Haha yeah, think we learned our lesson with the 'high five'! Cheers :)
Maybe because it’s an internal combustion engine and not an external combustion engine……they should have moved with the times and high fived. 😀
Really enjoy your videos mate. They look great too, may I ask what you use to film them?
Thank you very much. I use a Nikon Zfc with mostly the 16-50mm kit lens, although i sometimes use other lenses. Also just a Rode mic that sits on top of the camera with the fluffy (dead cat) cover thing. Cheers.
10:52 : 'Real Men Don't Read Manuals!'
✊😁
What is its propeler size
I don't really know to be honest... Around 250mm/10 inch diameter. I know there are some equations regarding propeller size and pitch, but we've swapped similar horsepower engines so we'll run her and see! :) 🤞
Are you just using the 30 weight oil as a break in oil?
Essentially yes - although my diesel engineer friend said 30 is fine anyway. I did read in one of the manuals to use 30, but in another 15/40 🤷♂️ 30 for the gearbox is the right oil though.
Real men don't need instructions! The little donk sounds beaut.
Haha your right! :)) And cheers!
😃😃😃
😉😁