I've been using Rotella T6 15W-40 on my BMW 335i with the N54 Twin Turbo engine for about 80K miles. I switched from the recommended oil because of the infamous BMW engine ticking noise on cold starts. The T6 got rid of the ticking and I have no issues after 80K miles. Original engine and turbos still running strong. Total miles 187,000.
Whether it damages the cats or not ultimately depends on how much the engine burns. If it doesn't burn much, it's safe to use. But an engine that burns oil will damage the cat even if you use petrol oil. Also,the fact that you get higher oil pressure indicates that it might be too thick for your engine. Your pump will push it no matter what (unless it's tiny or badly designed) because the engine rotates it with huge force, but good oil pressure is the optimal oil pressure, not just the highest. Thinner oil might seem "weak" to most people but the fact is that it gets where it needs to be quite faster and reaches spots where thicker oil will not, and that's what matters. It's also easier for the oil filter to filter thin oil.
I too live in Phoenix, AZ but I drive a 2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor. because my car came equipped with an oil cooler I will continue to run the recommended viscosity. You don't want to run a thicker oil than is recommended for your engone. The outside air temperature is really only important at startup because as the engine is running the engine temp will be well over the outside air temp. As mentioned below the manufacturer recommends a certain viscosity for your engine due to clearance tolerances. Running a thicker oil can cause the oil pump to not be able to push oil through the engine and cause enhine failure. I had it happen to two vehicles before I realized my mistake.
What you said here is true. I have 3 vehicles that I use and my 97 Land Cruiser is the only one I used a thicker viscosity oil in. So far it's been almost 3 years and I haven't noticed any issues. My oil seems to get more pressure with the 15w40 than it did with the 5w30 viscosity as well.
Thicker oil is obviously going to give you higher oil pressure but your engine bearings have a particular clearance and the oil that is designed for your engine is best for your engine as far as viscosities go but you got my attention with the zinc
@user-yj4ld9mg2b it's a trick I've used on old engines. If they call for 5w20 or 5w30 I make the switch to 10w30 after 150k and then 10w40 or even 15w40 after 200k+ on our trucks. Always helps them leak less. In the winter time I always switch back to 10w30 when it's frigid out or I'll throw in a qt or 5w30 so it has some thin weight to push around. Always seems to help the old engines run.
Ya I drive Prius car I have over 600000 on it I started burning oil when to full synthetic diesel oil and cars running fine been driving like a year with it and cars fine the oW 20 was just burning fast
Technically most "diesel oil" is actually just HDEO(Heavy Duty Engine Oil). I run shell rotella 15w40 in summer & shell rotella 0w40 during winter in my off road truck. It's thicker than 5w30, 10w30 and has all of the good additives.
I’m doing an experiment on my 1995 GMC Jimmy with the 4.3 liter engine and 350,000 Km on the odometer. Using PetroCanada Duron HP SAE 15W/40 and API CK-4/SN motor oil. The API-SN relieves me from damaging my catalyst. The added SAE 40 viscosity adds protection in our foreseen 40*Centigrade temperature. The 15W relieves me as we have never had temperatures below freezing point. However, the oil consumption of 1 liter per 5,000 Km is the same as with the SAE 10W/30 which points to the fact that the engine is worn out after 29 years of light use. I change the motor oil every 5,000 Km and the filter after the 10,000 aim mark. Will ai return to the recommended viscosity of SAE 10W/30? Perhaps!
I have a 97 jimmy coming up on 400k miles. It’s on its third alternator, third fuel pump, third lower intake manifold gasket, fourth water pump, I half assed “rebuilt” the 4l60e behind it once by replacing only the worn 3-4 clutch pack, even reused the atf I drained out of it. It’s been solid axle swapped since 200k or so miles on 35” tires, my daily commute includes a steep grade both ways, then I beat the living piss out of it in the desert dunes on weekends. It burns lots of oil, every fluid I pour in leaks right out but that 4.3 hasn’t actually quit yet. It gets nothing but the cheapest oil I can find at the parts store, this ranges from 0w20 synthetic to 15w50 conventional, sometimes even a quart of 90wt gear lube to get rid of that annoying low oil pressure light on the way home
I think shell 15-40 diesel oil has more zinc in it and bearings love zinc for long life unfortunately your catalytic converter does not play well with zinc! But it's a great oil!
after research there's not enough zinc in it to do any damage, t4 has around 1100 zinc, it's not until 2000 ppm where you can experience problems, so a zinc additive in "non race" vehicles is not needed. plus flat cams really need the zinc when being broke in.
Feelings have nothing to do with whether or not a given oil product is 'superior' or 'inferior.' I also run a 15-40 Diesel oil in my 460 powered Ford pickup. Why? It's Kirkland signature brand. It's inexpensive and in addition to being a diesel-rated oil it carries an SN rating as do most commonly available bottled oils. Is it 'superior' to a straight gas oil? I have no idea. Unless you yourself have dissected hundreds of different gas engines at various points in their wear cycles and measured and catalogued wear vs a standard gas oil product you don't know either. I am not currently aware of any long term studies on this topic, if one exists. The next best bet would be to ask someone in the industry who actually formulates oil blends. A chemist, or engineer. Or, you can just make sure the oil you use is rated for your application and trust that SAE ratings work. The rest is just noise and baseless opinion that means nothing.
I made a quick update video but it's been at least 15-20K now I've been running diesel. I don't drive the ole girl everyday so miles haven't gone up that much. ua-cam.com/video/B54YxzrqjbI/v-deo.html
Yeah I got a 2uzfe in a 4Runner and it likes the shell rotella 15w40 more than any gas 5w30 or 10w30. It has about twice as many detergents as gas oil in addition to zinc like you said. My lifters are noticeably quieter and for longer with jt. It don’t break down into water like some other stuff does when it’s time to change
I'm no engine mechanic 🧰 so don't take my word for it 100%. With that being said engine oil does thin out when its hotter / summer 🌞 so you should be fine.
All oils have ZDDP in sufficient quantities...it's a proven fact that higher ppm ratios of ZDDP does nothing but extend the depletion rate which btw is miniscule anyway. Higher viscosity does not provide any greater protection and actually can cause higher temperatures. Diesel oils across the board are formulated with less than half of the film strength of gas blends and are less temperature tolerant than gas blends. In short, nobody will ever be able to come up with any valid reasoning to run diesel oils in a gas engine from any viewpoint or scientific findings. Yes, a slightly higher viscosity "may" slow leaks...you do know gas blend oils come in different viscosities, right? I suspect that most who dump diesel oil in their gas engines do so mainly for that ZDDP myth. I say myth because not in one instance can anyone provide any study proving that a certain quantity of ZDDP is the best for protection. They can't because there is no such study and there is no such study simply because the compound ZDDP does not work like that at all. It does not "coat" surfaces and regardless of concentrations in oil works exactly the same in every instance...extreme heat and pressure in localized spots. Works exactly the same at 400ppm as it does at 1200ppm. Can you run diesel oil in a gas engine and get away with it? Of course you can as long as the engine in question never stresses that oil beyond it's capabilities. The real question should be why folks continue to use a less capable oil by anyone's metrics when there are far better alternatives.
The minimum wear has been found using basic tribological techniques at 1400 PPM zinc. Above that, the zinc chemically eats the metals, which is useful during break in, but damaging during service life. 1400 PPM zinc is contemporary to API SF motor oil which was the specification from 1979 to 1988 I believe. It declined slightly until the early 2000s when they really dropped it, and old early 80s cars with flat tappet cams started failing. API SP motor oil is perhaps 700 to 800 PPM zinc. Shell Rotella is currently at 1100 PPM zinc.
@@gregorymalchuk272 Minimum wear comes from using a oil with high film strength and a superior additive package, not from a emergency compound such as ZDDP. Anything that "eats" metals as you describe is not useful, even during break-in which by the way happens very quickly...some would argue from the starter motor alone. This is the reason no auto manufacturer has ever felt the need to use any "break-in" oils. The reason you will never find any scientific studies alluding to a specific optimum ppm content of ZDDP is because those that understand how the compound actually works knows beforehand it would be a ridiculous wasted effort. Simply put, more ZDDP does not equate to more protection. I took the time to understand this many years ago and that is the reason I run a off the shelf oil in my NHRA Stock Eliminator race vehicles which use flat tappet cams with higher spring pressures than anything ever offered from auto manufacturers. My oil of choice for my race vehicles as well as daily drivers is Quaker State 5W30 synthetic which currently sports about 900 ppm of ZDDP, but most importantly has one of the highest film strengths of any oils currently produced. Btw, the cam lifter failures everyone likes to allude to the lack of ZDDP actually arose from a substandard metallurgy process from manufacturers of said lifters who no longer found a profit from said products once car makers abandoned the technology. Couple that with the insistence of consumers using low film strength oils...diesel oils included. Additive packages are what make or break a engine oil...not a percentage of ZDDP. If one is seriously concerned or convinced that a high ppm value of ZDDP is the solution to all woes you don't need to look any further than the millions of used oil samples tested. Drill it down and completely eliminate any roller cammed vehicles and you will find the depletion rate of ZDDP is so miniscule it can barely be measured. If that information is not enough to convince/convert you about the ZDDP myth all I can add is you can lead a horse to water...
Way to hard on seals turnes them into plastic way to much detergent way to high on emissions will kill the o2 sensors and eve valve cats take a bearing
Is this a joke you keep saying you feel that doesn’t mean it has it just because you feel like it does lol and you said diesel engines are meant to take more abuse well you don’t have a diesel engine why don’t you put diesel fuel in your gas tank while you’re at it I’m just teasing you dude don’t get mad I know people that use diesel oil all the time but steal the guards who designed them designed them to run on what they say they require so you’re supposed to run the viscosity for the rock climate there’s a chart
I used to use 5w-30 and it's all good 👍😊 appreciate the feedback. I've just seen on some land cruiser forums, people swearing by 15w40 oil especially in hotter climates such as mine in PHX, Arizona. Since I've switched from 5w30 to 1540 it's been running better imo.
I've don't that before sort of this guy put gas in his diesel RV or the other way around took some 5 gallon buckets and pumped them full and burned the gas in ATVs and a shitty car back in the day
Diesel modern oils can run in gasoline engines and the reason why they say not to is because it can cause premature failure of cats. But I don't run cats so i don't have that issue. Lol
Dude the amount of bro science in this is crazy. Good luck with your reasoning. Its probably not gonna matter too much, but the manufacturer definitely knows better than you and some forum dudes. But, good luck
Way to hard on seals turnes them into plastic way to much detergent way to high on emissions will kill the o2 sensors and eve valve cats take a bearing
⚠3 year UPDATE with Diesel Oil in my Gas (Petrol) Engine: ua-cam.com/video/B54YxzrqjbI/v-deo.html
I've been using Rotella T6 15W-40 on my BMW 335i with the N54 Twin Turbo engine for about 80K miles. I switched from the recommended oil because of the infamous BMW engine ticking noise on cold starts. The T6 got rid of the ticking and I have no issues after 80K miles. Original engine and turbos still running strong. Total miles 187,000.
Whether it damages the cats or not ultimately depends on how much the engine burns. If it doesn't burn much, it's safe to use. But an engine that burns oil will damage the cat even if you use petrol oil.
Also,the fact that you get higher oil pressure indicates that it might be too thick for your engine. Your pump will push it no matter what (unless it's tiny or badly designed) because the engine rotates it with huge force, but good oil pressure is the optimal oil pressure, not just the highest.
Thinner oil might seem "weak" to most people but the fact is that it gets where it needs to be quite faster and reaches spots where thicker oil will not, and that's what matters. It's also easier for the oil filter to filter thin oil.
I run it in my jeep xj for 9 years never had a problem run great when I sold it
I just use regular Rotella T 30wt. Diesel oil in my car’s engine. So far, so good.
I too live in Phoenix, AZ but I drive a 2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor. because my car came equipped with an oil cooler I will continue to run the recommended viscosity. You don't want to run a thicker oil than is recommended for your engone. The outside air temperature is really only important at startup because as the engine is running the engine temp will be well over the outside air temp. As mentioned below the manufacturer recommends a certain viscosity for your engine due to clearance tolerances. Running a thicker oil can cause the oil pump to not be able to push oil through the engine and cause enhine failure. I had it happen to two vehicles before I realized my mistake.
What you said here is true. I have 3 vehicles that I use and my 97 Land Cruiser is the only one I used a thicker viscosity oil in. So far it's been almost 3 years and I haven't noticed any issues. My oil seems to get more pressure with the 15w40 than it did with the 5w30 viscosity as well.
Hey from Yuma
In my little Chevy Sonic I have 5W-40 STP
I use shell rotella T5 10w30 in my Lexus IS300, zero issues, and on my next oil change I'm using the T5 ultra FA-4 version
Thicker oil is obviously going to give you higher oil pressure but your engine bearings have a particular clearance and the oil that is designed for your engine is best for your engine as far as viscosities go but you got my attention with the zinc
Tolerances are out the window after 150k miles on a newer engine yes, but on older engines the tolerances open up. So thicker oils are fine
@user-yj4ld9mg2b it's a trick I've used on old engines. If they call for 5w20 or 5w30 I make the switch to 10w30 after 150k and then 10w40 or even 15w40 after 200k+ on our trucks. Always helps them leak less. In the winter time I always switch back to 10w30 when it's frigid out or I'll throw in a qt or 5w30 so it has some thin weight to push around. Always seems to help the old engines run.
Ya I drive Prius car I have over 600000 on it I started burning oil when to full synthetic diesel oil and cars running fine been driving like a year with it and cars fine the oW 20 was just burning fast
I use shell rotela T6 15w-40 in my diesel 80 series.
Technically most "diesel oil" is actually just HDEO(Heavy Duty Engine Oil).
I run shell rotella 15w40 in summer & shell rotella 0w40 during winter in my off road truck.
It's thicker than 5w30, 10w30 and has all of the good additives.
Check the API spec, some have a SH approval, which is for gas not diesel.
Check out some of the VW specs like 506.01 (or 504/507). It's ACEA A5/B5 and meant for some of their diesel engines that are very hard on oil.
Thanks for doing and posting. Appreciate you.
I’m doing an experiment on my 1995 GMC Jimmy with the 4.3 liter engine and 350,000 Km on the odometer. Using PetroCanada Duron HP SAE 15W/40 and API CK-4/SN motor oil. The API-SN relieves me from damaging my catalyst. The added SAE 40 viscosity adds protection in our foreseen 40*Centigrade temperature. The 15W relieves me as we have never had temperatures below freezing point. However, the oil consumption of 1 liter per 5,000 Km is the same as with the SAE 10W/30 which points to the fact that the engine is worn out after 29 years of light use. I change the motor oil every 5,000 Km and the filter after the 10,000 aim mark. Will ai return to the recommended viscosity of SAE 10W/30? Perhaps!
I have a 97 jimmy coming up on 400k miles. It’s on its third alternator, third fuel pump, third lower intake manifold gasket, fourth water pump, I half assed “rebuilt” the 4l60e behind it once by replacing only the worn 3-4 clutch pack, even reused the atf I drained out of it. It’s been solid axle swapped since 200k or so miles on 35” tires, my daily commute includes a steep grade both ways, then I beat the living piss out of it in the desert dunes on weekends. It burns lots of oil, every fluid I pour in leaks right out but that 4.3 hasn’t actually quit yet. It gets nothing but the cheapest oil I can find at the parts store, this ranges from 0w20 synthetic to 15w50 conventional, sometimes even a quart of 90wt gear lube to get rid of that annoying low oil pressure light on the way home
I think shell 15-40 diesel oil has more zinc in it and bearings love zinc for long life unfortunately your catalytic converter does not play well with zinc! But it's a great oil!
after research there's not enough zinc in it to do any damage, t4 has around 1100 zinc, it's not until 2000 ppm where you can experience problems, so a zinc additive in "non race" vehicles is not needed. plus flat cams really need the zinc when being broke in.
I just put 15w40 in my 99 Tacoma 3.4. It was -2 in northern AZ this morning and it started up no issues
Feelings have nothing to do with whether or not a given oil product is 'superior' or 'inferior.' I also run a 15-40 Diesel oil in my 460 powered Ford pickup. Why? It's Kirkland signature brand. It's inexpensive and in addition to being a diesel-rated oil it carries an SN rating as do most commonly available bottled oils. Is it 'superior' to a straight gas oil? I have no idea. Unless you yourself have dissected hundreds of different gas engines at various points in their wear cycles and measured and catalogued wear vs a standard gas oil product you don't know either. I am not currently aware of any long term studies on this topic, if one exists. The next best bet would be to ask someone in the industry who actually formulates oil blends. A chemist, or engineer. Or, you can just make sure the oil you use is rated for your application and trust that SAE ratings work. The rest is just noise and baseless opinion that means nothing.
My 460 runs good on T-4 with no issues. I always imagined the diesel oil helps keep the seals in good shape.
Yep, some do it yourselfer mechanics def knows more than the engineers that design these engines 🤦🤦this kid can’t even pronounce the words
Great video mate. How many miles have you used the diesel oil for as a reference?
Thanks for watching 👍 and probably around 16K miles now I've been on diesel.
I made a quick update video but it's been at least 15-20K now I've been running diesel. I don't drive the ole girl everyday so miles haven't gone up that much.
ua-cam.com/video/B54YxzrqjbI/v-deo.html
Its good for hot weather only cos its thick
Yeah I got a 2uzfe in a 4Runner and it likes the shell rotella 15w40 more than any gas 5w30 or 10w30. It has about twice as many detergents as gas oil in addition to zinc like you said. My lifters are noticeably quieter and for longer with jt. It don’t break down into water like some other stuff does when it’s time to change
Straight facts
I had an old 20R in my pickup, leaked a bunch. I switched to Rotella T-4 and it didn’t leak anymore, I believe it was 10w40.
Thicker oil 🛢️ should help with leaks. Just make sure you're not in a cold climate. Might cause issues.
@@TheAZCruiserhow cold to cause issues?
@@racedezign336 Probably below 👇 20 degrees F consistently since it's thicker 🛢️ oil diesel is.
I use it in my turbo vw. But my engine requires 5w40 from the factory. So it’s a no brainer.
How is your fuel economy? I believe the thicker the oil, the fuel economy will go down. Just depends, I am sure on what your engine needs.
Honestly not sure, haven't noticed any difference in MPG since my vehicle doesn't get good gas mileage to begin with 😄
Can I use this in my mitsubishi? I 10w40 for summer and 5w30 for winter. Have 200k I do add diesel when I do oil changes
I'm no engine mechanic 🧰 so don't take my word for it 100%. With that being said engine oil does thin out when its hotter / summer 🌞 so you should be fine.
Can you do an update video? I want to see what your experience has been. Have a good one!
Sure thing. I'll try to make one on my trip I'll be going on this coming week and I'll post the update soon 🔜☺️.
Do you think T6 Rotella would work good in my 1986 Toyota pickup? I usually run 20w50 because I live in CA and it gets pretty warm here during summer.
If you are running 20w50 then 15w40 should be just fine.
15w40 Is just ideal.
15w40 mobil 1 delvac extreme is prob one of the best diesel oils for the money and i run it in my gas turbo engines. Never skips a beat
@@scottp6761 Yep, it's good, give a try to amsoil 15w40 heavy duty and also royal purple duralec 15w40
@514aam yeh i have run both. Pricey. I have an Amsoil membership and may consider it. If just cost 3 times for the 9 quarts i need for my v8 LOL
All oils have ZDDP in sufficient quantities...it's a proven fact that higher ppm ratios of ZDDP does nothing but extend the depletion rate which btw is miniscule anyway. Higher viscosity does not provide any greater protection and actually can cause higher temperatures. Diesel oils across the board are formulated with less than half of the film strength of gas blends and are less temperature tolerant than gas blends. In short, nobody will ever be able to come up with any valid reasoning to run diesel oils in a gas engine from any viewpoint or scientific findings. Yes, a slightly higher viscosity "may" slow leaks...you do know gas blend oils come in different viscosities, right? I suspect that most who dump diesel oil in their gas engines do so mainly for that ZDDP myth. I say myth because not in one instance can anyone provide any study proving that a certain quantity of ZDDP is the best for protection. They can't because there is no such study and there is no such study simply because the compound ZDDP does not work like that at all. It does not "coat" surfaces and regardless of concentrations in oil works exactly the same in every instance...extreme heat and pressure in localized spots. Works exactly the same at 400ppm as it does at 1200ppm. Can you run diesel oil in a gas engine and get away with it? Of course you can as long as the engine in question never stresses that oil beyond it's capabilities. The real question should be why folks continue to use a less capable oil by anyone's metrics when there are far better alternatives.
The minimum wear has been found using basic tribological techniques at 1400 PPM zinc. Above that, the zinc chemically eats the metals, which is useful during break in, but damaging during service life. 1400 PPM zinc is contemporary to API SF motor oil which was the specification from 1979 to 1988 I believe. It declined slightly until the early 2000s when they really dropped it, and old early 80s cars with flat tappet cams started failing. API SP motor oil is perhaps 700 to 800 PPM zinc. Shell Rotella is currently at 1100 PPM zinc.
@@gregorymalchuk272 Minimum wear comes from using a oil with high film strength and a superior additive package, not from a emergency compound such as ZDDP. Anything that "eats" metals as you describe is not useful, even during break-in which by the way happens very quickly...some would argue from the starter motor alone. This is the reason no auto manufacturer has ever felt the need to use any "break-in" oils. The reason you will never find any scientific studies alluding to a specific optimum ppm content of ZDDP is because those that understand how the compound actually works knows beforehand it would be a ridiculous wasted effort. Simply put, more ZDDP does not equate to more protection. I took the time to understand this many years ago and that is the reason I run a off the shelf oil in my NHRA Stock Eliminator race vehicles which use flat tappet cams with higher spring pressures than anything ever offered from auto manufacturers. My oil of choice for my race vehicles as well as daily drivers is Quaker State 5W30 synthetic which currently sports about 900 ppm of ZDDP, but most importantly has one of the highest film strengths of any oils currently produced. Btw, the cam lifter failures everyone likes to allude to the lack of ZDDP actually arose from a substandard metallurgy process from manufacturers of said lifters who no longer found a profit from said products once car makers abandoned the technology. Couple that with the insistence of consumers using low film strength oils...diesel oils included. Additive packages are what make or break a engine oil...not a percentage of ZDDP. If one is seriously concerned or convinced that a high ppm value of ZDDP is the solution to all woes you don't need to look any further than the millions of used oil samples tested. Drill it down and completely eliminate any roller cammed vehicles and you will find the depletion rate of ZDDP is so miniscule it can barely be measured. If that information is not enough to convince/convert you about the ZDDP myth all I can add is you can lead a horse to water...
18 wheeler😅
Way to hard on seals turnes them into plastic way to much detergent way to high on emissions will kill the o2 sensors and eve valve cats take a bearing
Diesel oil has way to many detergents for a everyday driver.
Is this a joke you keep saying you feel that doesn’t mean it has it just because you feel like it does lol and you said diesel engines are meant to take more abuse well you don’t have a diesel engine why don’t you put diesel fuel in your gas tank while you’re at it I’m just teasing you dude don’t get mad I know people that use diesel oil all the time but steal the guards who designed them designed them to run on what they say they require so you’re supposed to run the viscosity for the rock climate there’s a chart
I used to use 5w-30 and it's all good 👍😊 appreciate the feedback. I've just seen on some land cruiser forums, people swearing by 15w40 oil especially in hotter climates such as mine in PHX, Arizona. Since I've switched from 5w30 to 1540 it's been running better imo.
I've don't that before sort of this guy put gas in his diesel RV or the other way around took some 5 gallon buckets and pumped them full and burned the gas in ATVs and a shitty car back in the day
Diesel modern oils can run in gasoline engines and the reason why they say not to is because it can cause premature failure of cats. But I don't run cats so i don't have that issue. Lol
Dude the amount of bro science in this is crazy. Good luck with your reasoning. Its probably not gonna matter too much, but the manufacturer definitely knows better than you and some forum dudes. But, good luck
Way to hard on seals turnes them into plastic way to much detergent way to high on emissions will kill the o2 sensors and eve valve cats take a bearing
Thank you for this advice sir