VIRAGO 1100 MIKUNI CARB DISASSEMBLY 87-99 | STEP BY STEP TUTORIAL | 4K
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- Let's strip down the stock dual Mikuni BST-40 carbs, to get them ready for ultrasonic cleaning
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Tools I recommend for beginner/ DIY mechanics
Sealey 4pc JIS screwdriver set ebay.us/IPnnTk
Cheap internal bearing puller kit ebay.us/dqsgMf
Wera 9 piece Long Allen keys ebay.us/jQqlHb
Wera 9 piece Extra long STAINLESS steel allen key set ebay.us/k61h1m
Wera 9 piece Short Allen keys the one in the video ebay.us/GSp19W
Wera 9 Piece Short BALL END Allen keys ebay.us/YwEiE4
Wera 6 Piece Screwdriver lasertip set ebay.us/C1stL5
Clarke CDM35C Multimeter in MachineMart bit.ly/2uNOKA8
Parts I purchased for my Virago 1100
Bearing I used for the swingarm Koyo 30203JR ebay.us/kKwNk7
The seal I used for the swingarm SKF CR25x40x5HMSA10RG ebay.us/F5m9iL
Camshaft bearing I use FAG 6205 C3 ebay.us/3oWoLQ
Spark plugs BPR7ES ebay.us/n6SKB3
BP7ES ebay.us/yuRqPp
Air Filter ebay.us/RlLUeh
Exhaust gaskets ebay.us/3rYnc4
4L Engine oil Motul 7100 20W-50 ebay.us/ovRAWl
Oil Filter Hiflo ebay.us/skiaTn
Final drive oil Motul HD 80W-90 ebay.us/gSlwPx
Front Brake pads Brembo CC you'll need 2 sets ebay.us/PyqGrZ
M7 x 1.00 Bleed Nipple in Stainless Steel ebay.us/wpaoX7
Tourmax MSB-201 Front brake master cylinder refurb kit ebay.us/1WdSex
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Your Vidz are incredibly helpful! Thanks for doing this. I have a 1996 1100 that I bought brand new as my first bike. Trying to keep this running. My kids are learning to ride on it.
Thanks for the this amazing detail on the Mekuni Carburetor, I am currently working on my Yamaha virago 750.Thanks again .
You are very welcome, thank you for appreciating it.
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Good info.The L shape tube that is above the choke it comes out fairly easy, just stuck a screwdrive inside and than move up and down and is coming out.
Thank you...I figured it out later🤦♂️, during idle tuning...gives better access to the pilot screw for the rear cylinder once removed...👍
I have a single carb conversion and when cleaning carry out recently I fell for the placing the washer under the needle as per the book. Interestingly it made the bike run better by taking away a slight stutter when punching the accelerator. However it was running rougher at lower revs. I’m going to have to play with it a bit. Thx for the tutorial Bro.
Hello, yes the drawings are wrong unfortunately on the needle assembly. If it was running better on full throttle or above half throttle then I'd suggest a bigger main jet to start with, try that first as lifting the needle will affect the whole throttle range...all the best.
Great video - very clear and useful explanation. Thank you.
Thanks for the great video!!!
Thanks for the information.
I have one question for the professional: same carb, replaced all the parts contained in the mikuni set. Now i have the issue - first run - on the needle (no air hose mounted) i see during idling petrol flow from the main jet.
I cannot understand the reason for that, as the main jet should be off dining idle rpms.
I found that every refurbish kit is slightly different and if you changed the needle valve, than definitely check my fuel level setting video because I'm 90% sure that's your problem.
Thnx... Another great video. Will you also continue on the xv535?
Hi...yes of course I will...currently stuck because the courier company lost my parcel from USA (starter clutch). I will move onto the other parts of the bike for now as I need to finish it soon.😉
Seriously?! The needle assembly order is wrong in manuals? This is insane. Just went back in.
Thank you! Impeccable detail. I hope you can answer my question, I followed along on my own carburetor and find the main jet just keeps spinning along with that inside part so I am unable to decouple the two parts. Do you have a recommendation?
Hello. Sorry for the late reply.
If the main jet just keep spinning then the plastic groove in the emulsion tube might be stripped. Try to hold the brass emulsion tube through the venturi (opening where the air enters) with a long noose plier and try to get it out that way....
Great video! I am using it now to clean my carburetors. Have 2 questions:
1) What is the size of the main jet?
2) Are the mixture screws set from factory at 3 and 1/8 turns out?
I just looked at mine and they were set at only 1 and 1/2 turns out.
Thank you
Hello thank you. I am glad you like it.
1) 125 Front
122.5 Rear are the stock ones.
2) The pliot screw stock turn is 2 and 1/2 out from soft seat...
1 and 1/2 is not enough unless the pilot jet has been changed, but for stock jet is not enough and you'll get popping sound on deceleration.
All this I wrote are for the 1100 with Mikuni carbs only. If you have an aftermarket exhaust you can go a little higher with the main jets like 127.5Front and 125Rear, I don't recommend lifting the needle, it made mine too rich and didn't like quick throttle movements. Pilot screw will end up around 3 turns out with aftermarket exhaust...good luck..carbs are not easy to set up, but also not impossible...carefuly check for air leaks, and makes sure you have good seal at the cylinder head..(can mess up everything)
@@MidlandCruiser Thank you very much for your answer. I just bought the bike, it’s a 1995 Yamaha Virago 1100 and I took the carbs off for a good cleaning. The main jet is 114 on both carbs and slow jet is 40. The needle has been raised 1 slot (it is set on 1 slot below the middle) and pilot jets set at only 1 and 1/2 turns out. The bike has an aftermarket Vance and Hines exhaust and a stock air filter. I just cleaned the carbs and put them together. Should I change anything about the settings or leave them as is? I have not ridden the bike since I bought it because the carb jets were clogged and it would not run more then 1-2 seconds. Thanks again!
Hello, sorry for the late reply but UA-cam held your comment in the spam folder. Yes you should run the jets I mentioned earlier and not a 114, that is waaay too lean on full throttle, the bike would feel breathless there, I suppose that's why the needle was raised to compensate. Ususally V&H dosen't need any jetting so the stock should be ok for you, unless no baffle, then go up 1 size 127.5 Front and 125 Rear. Also put the needle back in the middle and make sure it's the right one (5DL8 should be stamped on it) the pilot screws should be set around 2 and 1/2 out from soft seat, if dosen't like quick snaps on the throttle (static, not riding) and spits back through the carbs, then give it more up to about 3 turns out. Always put the air filter back on after adjustment when testing throttle response. Also the pilot screws are the last you adjust.
1. Fuel level, not float heigth big difference see here ua-cam.com/video/LREsazlZjhg/v-deo.html
2. Vacum sync
3. Pilot screws
Good luck, keep me updated.
@@MidlandCruiser
Thank you again for your help. I cleaned the carbs thoroughly and she starts and runs good now. I do have to switch to main jets bigger than 114 because she is lazy on acceleration. It is cold now here in Massachusetts USA so I won’t be riding it until April but I will be customizing it.
Hi, i eventually sorted out my Virago XV1100 1998, my bike has a aftermarket exhaust installed(straight pipe).
The front cylinder main jet is 130 and the rear cylinder main jet is 127, it is a bit warmer in south africa as it is in the UK, she is running like a dream, all other jets is standard in the carbs.
Float levels was a bit of a issue but got it sorted, air screws are turned out at 2 1/4 for both carbs and like i said, she is running like a dream.
Thanks for the video, keep up the good work.
Regards,
Bertus from SA.
Hi my friend. This is the same as my engine's carburetor. 10:37 "three one eight" should my carburetor be like that too.
Hi, if you are running aftermarket exhaust than yes should be around 3 on the rear and 2-½, 2-¾ on the front. Rear needs a little more on the pilot screw, however the main jet is bigger on the front cylinder
ok my friend thank you very much