Thanks for normal human delivery of information and not overhyped intro, loud music and other nonsense. Also, thanks for shots of every thing you do and not the typical "not shown I replaced my wire harness for my entire vehicle, but yeah, then just connect the terminals and you are done" that seems to be all the "how to's" of youtube lately.
Lol I know exactly what you're talking about and I agree that those videos are quite frustrating. Glad you found this video helpful, and thank you for watching!
Love how active you are with the truck and documenting basically everything you’re doing to it, Sal. You’ll be my reference when I decide to actually start upgrading things :). Cheers bro, Chris
Definitely agree and second Chris! I have a 2006 DC that I’ve recently purchased and been doing updates and upgrades based on your suggestions and recommendations. Thank you for the videos and all the activity with this truck!
I did all this stuff to my truck too. New head unit, replaced 4 speakers, and added the under seat woofer. Definitely a huge improvement in my truck’s sound. I also did some sound deadening while it was all open to insulate the interior from my side pipes. It’s still loud but much more tame than it was. When I want my tunes it can definitely crank and hold its own over the exhaust, even with the passenger window down (my pipes dump right at the end of the cab on passenger side). I’m sure it would sound even better with a quiet exhaust but I’m enjoying my rowdy setup too much rn.
Lol that's great to hear. I was also happy with the sound improvement with the under seat sub. I thought about side pipes but they seemed a bit too rowdy for my truck lol
i was inspired by this video to also do a sub for my 03 extended cab tundra sr5 and i used the same sub and the wiring kit from the same manufacturer and the sub barley barley fits under i had to remove the seat to put it under the drivers seat and even then it has limited sliding forwards and backwards movement, everything works great and the video helped me a lot just something to note for other people
I also have a Gen 1 Tundra that I inherited from a family member and, out of respect for that family member, am fixing it up. She "was" the cool aunt and had done some sound upgrades already. All that is left is to install an amp and subwoofer at this point. I've done it before so I figured why not. Now I know exactly how to get the wiring through the firewall and under the driver's seat. Also, I know how to get the head unit out so I can attach the RCAs, remote wire, etc. Many thanks!
I am planning to add sound deadening material to the back wall inside my Tundra as that’s the noisiest area inside a truck’s cab. I think KILMAT and SILES are highly rated.
Thanks, Sal! Your videos are a huge help! Suggestion for a mod/upgrade video- LED lights on the instrument/climate control panel as well as the interior lights. Made mine all red! What started this was my "drive" gear bulb burned out.
That's funny you should mention it, I just recorded a video on that exactly and it should be going up in the next couple of days! Thanks for watching - Sal
Great videos on the 1st Gen Tundra. I bought mine new in 2001. I upgraded my speakers and head unit about 10 years ago. I’ve always wanted the JL Audio Stealth subwoofer when it was available but didn’t want to pay the high price. I was lucky to have found it on eBay years after it was discontinued and for less than half price. The audio in my truck sounds so good now that I don’t want to leave the truck after riding. I just bought another head unit. This time with android audio. I also bought a camera to mount on the front license plate. I’ve had one on the rear plate for years. Keep posting videos. Thanks again.
Nice, I'm not sure if it's the small cabin or what, but the audio does sound pretty great in these trucks with an upgraded system. Thanks for watching!
Nice, yeah I was very happy with the difference it made! And it's so nice to have it tucked under the seat and out of the way. Thanks for watching - Sal
I feel like the thing with sound deadening is you would have to do basically the whole truck to really make a difference. I'm sure it helps a little bit with the projection of the speakers but probably not work the energy and money just to do the doors. Also, like someone else commented, flashing tape used in construction is very similar to the sound deadening tape. Stuff like Resisto tape. I reckon that stuff is a lot cheaper too, but I think it's a little less dense. Great video!
Yeah that's exactly my feeling after doing this project. The best results would definitely be had if you could do the whole cab, like under the seats and behind the back seats. Thanks for watching!
The problem with flashing tape is, at least the brand I have is only rated up to 120 degrees. Maybe there’s a brand that can handle the extreme heat inside a vehicle. I’m in south Louisiana and summers are rough.🥵
That would definitely be the most effective, but I wasn't feeling like pulling the whole interior out to do that. Maybe down the line a little bit haha thanks for watching!
Sound ending probably made more of a difference than you think and it's also more so for getting rid of rattle or vibration like when you hear people with big bass their license plate is about ready to Rattle off or their trunk is ready to Rattle apart
Thank you, that looks like a great spot to put it too. I'll have to see if it will work with the size of this controller, or if it will need some more modification. - Sal
I upgraded my stereo after watching , I have an 06 with the jbl system I upgraded to a 5" jvc deck, alpine speakers in doors, 10" kicker sub under my seat and alpine Amp under passenger seat. I didn't sound proof the doors but it sounds great.
I'd say if anything what you've already done looks great on the doors. But what I would do and what I'm going to do myself as I'm replacing my stereo speakers currently. Id just do as you have done on the interior of the door and then also put deadening material on the backside of the door card and then reinstall.
I just subbed you. I love your Tundra dedicated content. I just purchased a 2005 Tundra with the 4.7 with 68,000 miles on it. I really love it, the sound system needs a little TLC though. Thank you for your time.
It's funny cause if you go to any audio forum they will shit on Rockville all day long. But too be fair for a simple budget upgrade they are good for bringing in some lows. After 6 years I still have a 12 inch Rockville pre amped. Will be upgrading very soon to a 600 watt RMS 12 inch sub. Good video Sal
Yeah I'm not in any position to critically listen to any speakers and rate them lol but I've been really happy with mine. Fills in the low end and makes the music more exciting. Thanks for watching - Sal
Nice, if you've already got some then it might be worth doing. I would also maybe consider doing behind the rear seats, I could see that helping out too. Thanks for watching, and congrats on the new truck.
Just stuff the inner door cavity with home insulation bats. It's cheap, it's fire retardant, and it's super sound absorbing, and helps with climate control. Idk, I like using it. Really stuff a bunch in there! Just make sure you cover the top and outer side with plastic from top down, and leave it open, if it gets wet it will dry unless it's wrapped too tight.
You can also go to lowes or HD and get some protector wrap or like a rubber flashing that you put on roofs or windows of houses. Get a roll for like 20-30 bucks and it works exactly the same as dynomat or hushmat just a little thinner and cheaper. I myself didn't think any kind of sound proofing was worth it but let me tell you that it definitely is worth it. The difference in sound is amazing I've got my whole back wall and door skins the best I could and man does it sound killer inside and out helps with annoying rattles too
This is funny. Last year I did the exact same sub under the driver seat of my 04 AC and installed infinity reference components in my doors, along with boom mat. FGT owners think alike, eh!
Hey if you ever make another video, please go into more detail on putting the door panel back on. It’s been an hour and I’m losing my mind. This is one of two 😭
Multiple hand lacerations later and I figured it out. But if you show how it works, and how that one peice of the door panel goes between the two metal peices
Hey sal, just wanted to say cool video, I have my own 2000 access cab tundra and I’ve upgraded my speakers in my truck and added 2 kicker hideaway 8’s on the two front seats, I also had some trouble fitting it under the seat but it eventually fits, just wanted to ask if you experience any rattling from the front windows I got some jbl speakers and I think the magnet just barely reaches the metal railing which has caused mine to rattle when there’s a bass heavy song, pretty annoying because it’s a pretty normal/ small magnet to begin with
Hey Adolfo, I haven't noticed any excess rattling from the front windows, but I'm sure I will now that you've mentioned it! 😂 I noticed that my passenger window rattles a bit when it's part way down (whether listening to music or not), and didn't know about the magnet in the mechanism so I may need to check that out. Thanks for watching - Sal
I never comment but your Tundra stuff is cool man keep it up, I have a first gen myself original owner and if you have any questions about Audio/Video hit me up I worked at Bby for 12 years and if you have any questions on Apple I now work for them going on 8 years. But was there a separate tweeter in your door?
I appreciate that Kenneth! Super cool to see these trucks with their original owners. There is a separate tweeter that I didn't upgrade higher on the door panel, wasn't sure how big of a difference it would make. Thanks for watching! - Sal
I just received the Rockville kit and I had one quick question. The kit comes with RCA cables to connect to the sub and the back of the head unit. In your video you didn’t use rca but I think you used a sub cable that only has 1 connection (not 2 on each end like the RCA cable). 12:32 I am doing this for the first time and would appreciate any help or guidance. Btw I love your videos. I installed the atoto head unit and back up camera following your video. Thank you!!
Yeah I only bought that sub cable because I didn't have another RCA to use, I don't think you'd have any problem using that RCA cable to tie in the sub. I would just use one color and leave the other one unplugged. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
@@JDMDriveway Thank you! I installed the sub today and it work great for my use. I bought an adapter just because but I don't think it was necessary - like you said just use 1 color of the RCA cable.
I don't, and I need to make one because my windows are also pretty floppy lol. No promises that I'll make that video anytime soon, but it's definitely something I'm considering. Thanks for watching
Hey great video! Just wondering if there's another way to connect the speakers without cutting the factory connection? Are there adapters that can go at that connection above the housing? Thanks!
Hey, I'm sure there are adapters you could buy, but I just didn't look into it. I don't know for sure, but I'd guess that you could find them on Amazon pretty easy. Thanks for watching!
This video talks specifically about the head unit I've got. I used an adapter harness from crutchfield to keep the factory wiring in tact. Thanks for watching ua-cam.com/video/z10_DbflgKo/v-deo.html
If you have a JBL upgraded stereo, none of this will work! The crossovers are in the amp, and the amp will ONLY work with the stock head unit. I did not know any of this when I got my truck. To add a sub I just got an amp that can take speaker-level inputs and spliced them into the rear speaker circuit. I use a Qudelix-5k Bluetooth receiver with a parametric equalizer inside the DAC chip, and I drop the bass by 12dB below 250hz then re-amplify it. It sounds complicated but it works great
Huh, thanks for the heads up! I definitely don't know much about car audio systems, but I'm sure this will help out other people who may be running into that issue. Thanks for watching
Why would the stock amplifier not work with anything but the head unit thats stock? I'm in the middle of upgrading all my stuff now. About to put in the head unit tomorrow or something and I'm going to run another amplifier for my subwoofers but was planning on keeping the original for my door speakers
The stock head unit and amp are essentially one unit, located in two different places. They won't work without each other. The crossovers are inside the amp for some reason. I don't know why JBL did it this way but they did, apparently it's common across different manufacturers
Hey sal I’m current working on installing the same sub into my 2002 tundra. I have the same head unit too. I noticed the wiring kit comes with a sub wire with two rca outputs but the Atoto seems to only have one output. I noticed you have something linked in the description. Is it one rca to one rca? Or does it go one rca to two?
Hey man, sorry for the late response!! In the research I found, the sub only needs 1 input to operate normally. So I just used a 1:1 rca cable. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
I did mine (04 dbl cab) with spray-on rubberized undercoating a few years ago. It made a big difference not only in the audio sounding better but also road noise was reduced.
Hey Nathan, if you're looking for window rattling bass this isn't it, but sitting in the drivers seat you definitely feel a significant difference and turned all the way up it bumps pretty good. I will say that because it is super focused under the drivers seat and not in the backseat, it doesn't rumble the whole cab. I tried it out sitting in the passenger seat and you hear a difference, but its not as noticeable. Sitting in the drivers seat, you feel a big difference and I think its worth it. Thanks for watching - Sal
I bought the 50mil, and got 52sq ft. And it was way too much for the 4 doors lol. The 26ft package is probably enough. It's honestly been a while since I did this, but I remember having a lot leftover. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
I bought an 02' a few months ago for 2k with 140k miles but a bad transmission. I'm currently rebuilding it myself in my garage with upgraded components. Unfortunately these have a known issue with the torrington bearing behind the overdrive planetary gear. I'm also ordering new speakers and stereo this week so this is helpful. Also..if you ever encounter door latch issues. I fixed / modded mine without spending the $250 per latch. Even the new ones are flawed! Lastly, did you do anything with or for the small tweeter and back door speakers yet?
That's really cool that you're rebuilding it yourself. As far as the tweeters, I haven't done anything yet, but I did replace the back door speakers with the same ones I did up front. I don't know if it was super worth it, but I figured why not. Thanks for watching!
@@JDMDriveway Luckily there are enough good videos of rebuilding the A340 that I felt confident enough to do it! - With the speakers I'm trying to gauge if getting ones without a built in tweeter is the way to go since the already has them... i.e.; wondering if doubling up on tweeters is ok or not. I'm no stereo genius.
How's the tranny rebuild coming? Couple questions, what were your symptoms on the tranny needing rebuilt? Also I heard that the valve bodies get clogged up on our A340 tranny, any thoughts on that? I've had to replace the lock up solenoid when my 00 wasn't moving anywhere. Did a pan drop and new fluid and added a little bit of Auto rx and it seems to be shifting like butter ATM. I think I'm gonna do another drain and refill real soon just to do it. It makes it nice having a drain plug on everything on the first gens. Also do you have a link to the upgraded tranny parts? Thanks
@@garybrady7245 I’m putting mine back in today/tomorrow. My wife and I did a full rebuild in our garage. The issue is common, a bad overdrive planetary gear. We bought it this way.. got the truck for $2200 and 140k miles. The issue is dual-fold.. 1- towing in overdrive in hills and not watching the temps (which you can’t do without a gauge) and, 2- the torrington bearing directly between the overdrive ring gear and planetary gear is insufficiently sized. I found a place in Canada that was modding these for a time, machining the ring gear (and or planetary) a little deeper/wider to allow for a slightly wider and thicker torrington to better cope with stress and heat buildup. This is also why keeping the fluid temps under 190F is very VERY important. In our case the bearing and race were 100% gone.. completely obliterated and melted. This is what happens and in turn wrecks the planetary and ring.. which are now becoming rare as hens teeth to source used (we got a set for $175) or you can buy new from Toyota for $1000. 3- People assume, because of endless heresay in forums, FB, etc, that this issue was limited to only the 00-02 Tundra. The trans shop (in fact 3 of them) emphatically said it can happen to any of them up to 05 with the A340. And if you carefully search part numbers as I did, you’ll find no part number changes across those years. So unless Toyota somehow fixed this in some other manner I don’t see that it was “fixed” at the factory by AISIN. If yours is still operational I highly suggest doing a fluid flush with pan cleanout, inspect the magnets, and replace the filter. When driving, always switch out of overdrive before encountering hills whenever towing. Lastly, don’t tow more that 6,000-6,500lbs total. These transmissions are in fact surprisingly small for a v8 truck. As for other remedies: Get a slightly larger trans cooler like the Hayden 679. Add a Derale 13011 inline thermostat. Add a trans temp gauge and mount it in the pan or at the return line just before pan. I did all of those as upgrades and peace of mind. Lastly, we rebuilt the trans with upgrades: Raybestos clutches and steels, new rubber o-rings, and a TransGo HD2 kit for the valve body, new Hercoo solenoids, and reman torq converter. We did all of it in our garage with a $100 trans mount (red one) off Amazon (requires a little cutting with angle grinder to notch out where fluid pump is) and a spring compressor also purchased on Amazon. Aside from those two, I had to make a bar puller to remove the pump and a bar puller to remove the overdrive center support. You also need a few long snap ring pliars, like 12” straight and 12” with 90-deg end. Lastly, we did not replace the copper coated internal bushings because they looked ok, and a bushing kit to remove them costs like $300 and was something we wouldn’t really use again.. My other YT page is RideorDieFab so follow it. I’ll be posting all the repair videos there very soon. It actually wasn’t a hard job, just tedious and you have to pay careful attention to all the details and have some feeler gauges and airgun to check some tolerances and perform 3 or 4 pressure checks to make sure the clutch packs operate. And to be clear.. I’ve worked on cars a lot but had never rebuilt a trans before.
@oldowl4290 I gotta tip my hat to you for adding to the first gen knowledge in my hard drive (my brain lol) I'm very impressed with your excellent reply and must thank you! And yes I do have the glowshift gauge with the sensor right into the side of the pan that I made with a universal drain plug from Auto Zone. One that the sensor screws into the center of itself. And have been watching my tranny Temps for a few months now with the average being around 165-173F that's with the oem auxiliary cooler. That's actually my next project is switching out the cooler with a little bit beefier one. I did order the B&M 70268 I think that was the part number but I didn't like the inner core space that it provided. It was like half the thickness of the oem so I sent it back. And I know another thing that will hurt these trannys is of course the unknown pink milkshake that we all love so well. If you don't catch it quickly it's over it's just a matter of time. But I am still working on getting all of my transmission fluid clean to where it needs to be I just did a drain and refill after running almost 3000 miles on new fluid. That's when I found out you better have a decent fluid or the tranny will not like it at all. Been using the Valvolene Max life full synthetic fluid and having good reactions to it so that's what I'll stick with. But I slowly but surely brought life back into my tranny no doubt in my mind because it was slipping and not budging to now it's shifting nice. The lock ups even working now that I never noticed before with my rrrrs slightly over 2000 doing 50 mph and now I can feel it kick down and observe the r gauge at 17-1800 at 50mph telling you its crazy how strong these trannys really are
@@andyburton6209 i just unhooked it from the wire harness and then clicked it back in when i put the door back on. I was trying to upgrade the tweeder but honestly couldnt find one that fit and matched up to the wire harness
Yep, you should be able to. It will fit the same as the drivers side, and the wiring shouldn't be any more difficult. I've considered doing that myself. Thanks for watching
Yes, it is still back there in the dash, but it is bypassed with the new wiring. I guess it wouldn't play well with the head unit. Not too sure on the details. Thanks for watching!
Yep, they were all the same. Honestly, I'd probably tell you to save your money on the rears at least to start. See if you're happy with just the fronts and if not, then do the rears too. I just don't feel like they contribute too much to the sound in the cab. Just my 2 cents. Thanks for watching!
about to pull the trigger on this set-up! looking back do you wish you'd put the sub under the passenger seat instead of the driver? feel like i'd rather have it there for some reason. probably would complicate the install though huh.
Actually there's a couple different variants out there. Mine are totally different. My door cards are different and the speaker mounts are different as well. On top of that the front speakers and rear speakers are different in the same truck and the mounts in the rear are totally different as well.
Thanks for normal human delivery of information and not overhyped intro, loud music and other nonsense. Also, thanks for shots of every thing you do and not the typical "not shown I replaced my wire harness for my entire vehicle, but yeah, then just connect the terminals and you are done" that seems to be all the "how to's" of youtube lately.
Lol I know exactly what you're talking about and I agree that those videos are quite frustrating. Glad you found this video helpful, and thank you for watching!
Love how active you are with the truck and documenting basically everything you’re doing to it, Sal. You’ll be my reference when I decide to actually start upgrading things :). Cheers bro, Chris
I appreciate that Chris, I like making these videos and happy to help you guys decide what you want to throw on your truck. Thanks for watching - Sal
Definitely agree and second Chris! I have a 2006 DC that I’ve recently purchased and been doing updates and upgrades based on your suggestions and recommendations. Thank you for the videos and all the activity with this truck!
I 3rd this
I did all this stuff to my truck too. New head unit, replaced 4 speakers, and added the under seat woofer. Definitely a huge improvement in my truck’s sound. I also did some sound deadening while it was all open to insulate the interior from my side pipes. It’s still loud but much more tame than it was. When I want my tunes it can definitely crank and hold its own over the exhaust, even with the passenger window down (my pipes dump right at the end of the cab on passenger side). I’m sure it would sound even better with a quiet exhaust but I’m enjoying my rowdy setup too much rn.
Lol that's great to hear. I was also happy with the sound improvement with the under seat sub. I thought about side pipes but they seemed a bit too rowdy for my truck lol
I'd sure like to see those pipes
i was inspired by this video to also do a sub for my 03 extended cab tundra sr5 and i used the same sub and the wiring kit from the same manufacturer and the sub barley barley fits under i had to remove the seat to put it under the drivers seat and even then it has limited sliding forwards and backwards movement, everything works great and the video helped me a lot just something to note for other people
That's good to hear. The sub is definitely a tight fit, but I'm happy with the sound 👍🏼 thanks for watching! - Sal
I also have a Gen 1 Tundra that I inherited from a family member and, out of respect for that family member, am fixing it up. She "was" the cool aunt and had done some sound upgrades already. All that is left is to install an amp and subwoofer at this point. I've done it before so I figured why not. Now I know exactly how to get the wiring through the firewall and under the driver's seat. Also, I know how to get the head unit out so I can attach the RCAs, remote wire, etc. Many thanks!
Glad to hear it, and best of luck with the truck. Thanks for watching!
Love these videos. I never thought I could install my own car audio upgrades but with your detailed instructions I feel like I could actually do this!
Love to hear that, thanks for watching!
Your my guide. Keep it going. Can’t wait till my tundra looks half as good as yours 😍
Just goes little by little! Thanks for watching
I am planning to add sound deadening material to the back wall inside my Tundra as that’s the noisiest area inside a truck’s cab. I think KILMAT and SILES are highly rated.
Yup, that's next on my sound deadening list to do. I think it should make a bigger difference
Thanks, Sal! Your videos are a huge help!
Suggestion for a mod/upgrade video- LED lights on the instrument/climate control panel as well as the interior lights. Made mine all red! What started this was my "drive" gear bulb burned out.
That's funny you should mention it, I just recorded a video on that exactly and it should be going up in the next couple of days! Thanks for watching - Sal
Great videos on the 1st Gen Tundra. I bought mine new in 2001. I upgraded my speakers and head unit about 10 years ago. I’ve always wanted the JL Audio Stealth subwoofer when it was available but didn’t want to pay the high price. I was lucky to have found it on eBay years after it was discontinued and for less than half price. The audio in my truck sounds so good now that I don’t want to leave the truck after riding. I just bought another head unit. This time with android audio. I also bought a camera to mount on the front license plate. I’ve had one on the rear plate for years.
Keep posting videos. Thanks again.
Nice, I'm not sure if it's the small cabin or what, but the audio does sound pretty great in these trucks with an upgraded system. Thanks for watching!
Did the Rockville setup under the passenger seat. It makes a world of difference!
Nice, yeah I was very happy with the difference it made! And it's so nice to have it tucked under the seat and out of the way. Thanks for watching - Sal
I feel like the thing with sound deadening is you would have to do basically the whole truck to really make a difference. I'm sure it helps a little bit with the projection of the speakers but probably not work the energy and money just to do the doors. Also, like someone else commented, flashing tape used in construction is very similar to the sound deadening tape. Stuff like Resisto tape. I reckon that stuff is a lot cheaper too, but I think it's a little less dense. Great video!
Yeah that's exactly my feeling after doing this project. The best results would definitely be had if you could do the whole cab, like under the seats and behind the back seats. Thanks for watching!
The problem with flashing tape is, at least the brand I have is only rated up to 120 degrees. Maybe there’s a brand that can handle the extreme heat inside a vehicle. I’m in south Louisiana and summers are rough.🥵
Yes it is worth putting sound deadening material on the inner door skin! Yes go back and put some on! Put some on both sides of the inner door skin!
Glad you did a video on this. I've been tossing the idea around for the last year on it. Definitely going to do the front doors and sub. Thanks. 🍻
Yeah man for sure, front doors and the sub should make a noticeable difference. Especially sitting in the drivers seat, you really feel the bass 👍🏼
Sound deadening under carpet is the key
That would definitely be the most effective, but I wasn't feeling like pulling the whole interior out to do that. Maybe down the line a little bit haha thanks for watching!
Sound ending probably made more of a difference than you think and it's also more so for getting rid of rattle or vibration like when you hear people with big bass their license plate is about ready to Rattle off or their trunk is ready to Rattle apart
Yeah you're right, it probably did make more of a difference than I gave it justice for. It just didn't blow me away with how quiet the cab is.
appreciate your vidoes buddy - about to do my own gen 1 build...
Sweet! They're awesome trucks, and I've had fun customizing mine. Thanks for watching!
I just picked up a first gen tundra, will definitely be following along your videos
Awesome! Congrats on the new truck 🤙🏼 thanks for watching - Sal
Great video Sal. I have the kicker version of the sub and put the volume control in the blank button on the left side of the steering wheel
Thank you, that looks like a great spot to put it too. I'll have to see if it will work with the size of this controller, or if it will need some more modification. - Sal
I was able to take apart my controller and it fit. I will post a video later this week.
Oh cool! Ill check it out for sure
Posted video here ua-cam.com/video/GXy8gBDb9uA/v-deo.html
I upgraded my stereo after watching , I have an 06 with the jbl system I upgraded to a 5" jvc deck, alpine speakers in doors, 10" kicker sub under my seat and alpine Amp under passenger seat. I didn't sound proof the doors but it sounds great.
Awesome, I'm very happy with my upgrade too. Thanks for watching - Sal
Thanks for your input. 👍🏼
Thanks for watching!
I'd say if anything what you've already done looks great on the doors. But what I would do and what I'm going to do myself as I'm replacing my stereo speakers currently. Id just do as you have done on the interior of the door and then also put deadening material on the backside of the door card and then reinstall.
I didn't think about putting this on the backside of the door card. I'd be curious to see if it helps any more. Thanks for watching!
I just subbed you. I love your Tundra dedicated content. I just purchased a 2005 Tundra with the 4.7 with 68,000 miles on it. I really love it, the sound system needs a little TLC though. Thank you for your time.
Wow congrats on the new truck, that's such low miles!! Thanks for watching!
It's funny cause if you go to any audio forum they will shit on Rockville all day long. But too be fair for a simple budget upgrade they are good for bringing in some lows. After 6 years I still have a 12 inch Rockville pre amped. Will be upgrading very soon to a 600 watt RMS 12 inch sub. Good video Sal
Yeah I'm not in any position to critically listen to any speakers and rate them lol but I've been really happy with mine. Fills in the low end and makes the music more exciting. Thanks for watching - Sal
Thanks for the vid. Just got a 2005 with 100 K and doing suspension, sound, brakes, int lights.....
Nice! Congrats on the new truck! - Sal
I did all the sound dampening in a 97 LX450. I have an entire box left over for my 06’ Tundra I just bought. Maybe I’ll tackle it.
Nice, if you've already got some then it might be worth doing. I would also maybe consider doing behind the rear seats, I could see that helping out too. Thanks for watching, and congrats on the new truck.
Just stuff the inner door cavity with home insulation bats. It's cheap, it's fire retardant, and it's super sound absorbing, and helps with climate control. Idk, I like using it. Really stuff a bunch in there! Just make sure you cover the top and outer side with plastic from top down, and leave it open, if it gets wet it will dry unless it's wrapped too tight.
Huh I haven't thought of using that stuff before! Thanks for the idea! - Sal
You can also go to lowes or HD and get some protector wrap or like a rubber flashing that you put on roofs or windows of houses. Get a roll for like 20-30 bucks and it works exactly the same as dynomat or hushmat just a little thinner and cheaper. I myself didn't think any kind of sound proofing was worth it but let me tell you that it definitely is worth it. The difference in sound is amazing I've got my whole back wall and door skins the best I could and man does it sound killer inside and out helps with annoying rattles too
This is funny. Last year I did the exact same sub under the driver seat of my 04 AC and installed infinity reference components in my doors, along with boom mat. FGT owners think alike, eh!
Haha yeah I like your taste! I'm super happy with the upgrade, especially the sub. I'm glad it all fit so well. Thanks for watching man! - Sal
@@JDMDriveway anytime. Love the channel!
I didn’t thin’ you have to cover the whole panel, I thought. A little in the center of the panel prevents the door from acting like a drum,
Yeah I'm not sure, I'm not a pro and most things I saw said to just cover as many surfaces as possible 🤷🏻♂️ thanks for watching! - Sal
Hey if you ever make another video, please go into more detail on putting the door panel back on. It’s been an hour and I’m losing my mind. This is one of two 😭
Multiple hand lacerations later and I figured it out. But if you show how it works, and how that one peice of the door panel goes between the two metal peices
Ok, thank you for the feedback and I'll be sure to include more detail if I make another video on this again. Thanks for watching!
@@JDMDriveway thank you for being one of my favorite youtubers to watch car wise :)
Nice ! Plan on doing my front. 04 tundra
Sweet, should be a good improvement! Thanks for watching - Sal
When you go back to update your door by adding more sound in and please do a video for that also?
I will make a video if I decide to do that. For now, I'm probably going to hold off though. Thanks for watching!
Hey sal, just wanted to say cool video, I have my own 2000 access cab tundra and I’ve upgraded my speakers in my truck and added 2 kicker hideaway 8’s on the two front seats, I also had some trouble fitting it under the seat but it eventually fits, just wanted to ask if you experience any rattling from the front windows I got some jbl speakers and I think the magnet just barely reaches the metal railing which has caused mine to rattle when there’s a bass heavy song, pretty annoying because it’s a pretty normal/ small magnet to begin with
I have JBL speakers in my 2000 tundra that I upgraded and it does the same thing with the window
Hey Adolfo, I haven't noticed any excess rattling from the front windows, but I'm sure I will now that you've mentioned it! 😂 I noticed that my passenger window rattles a bit when it's part way down (whether listening to music or not), and didn't know about the magnet in the mechanism so I may need to check that out. Thanks for watching - Sal
Pioneer makes a thin mount speaker for Toyotas
That or make your own speaker pods that are built out a little bit. Or buy some pods for your doors and mount them on with any door speakers you want
Great video did my 02 sequia sound deading from home depot 16.03$
Sweet, glad to hear it! Thanks for watching
@JDM Driveway yea bro thanks for the videos I also did the door panels an mannnnnn what a huge difference 👏 👌
I never comment but your Tundra stuff is cool man keep it up, I have a first gen myself original owner and if you have any questions about Audio/Video hit me up I worked at Bby for 12 years and if you have any questions on Apple I now work for them going on 8 years. But was there a separate tweeter in your door?
I appreciate that Kenneth! Super cool to see these trucks with their original owners. There is a separate tweeter that I didn't upgrade higher on the door panel, wasn't sure how big of a difference it would make. Thanks for watching! - Sal
Yo Sal,
I’ve been doing some research and some people have said you can fit 6x9’s in the access cab doors
Wanted to see your opinion. Thank you!
Honestly not sure man, it would probably require some cutting but it might be doable. I'd be curious to hear how it goes though. Thanks for watching!
I just received the Rockville kit and I had one quick question. The kit comes with RCA cables to connect to the sub and the back of the head unit. In your video you didn’t use rca but I think you used a sub cable that only has 1 connection (not 2 on each end like the RCA cable). 12:32 I am doing this for the first time and would appreciate any help or guidance. Btw I love your videos. I installed the atoto head unit and back up camera following your video. Thank you!!
Yeah I only bought that sub cable because I didn't have another RCA to use, I don't think you'd have any problem using that RCA cable to tie in the sub. I would just use one color and leave the other one unplugged. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
@@JDMDriveway Thank you! I installed the sub today and it work great for my use. I bought an adapter just because but I don't think it was necessary - like you said just use 1 color of the RCA cable.
@Connor-sn1of yeah, sorry for the late response but I'm glad it worked out for you!
Thanks for the video. Do you have a video on how to tighten the windows up. When halfway down they kinda flop around?
I don't, and I need to make one because my windows are also pretty floppy lol. No promises that I'll make that video anytime soon, but it's definitely something I'm considering. Thanks for watching
agreed with-- gray snicklez
I appreciate it!
Idk about you but i shoved 0 gauge wire in without having to go through the gromit but i did it on passenger side
Huh I didn't think about going through the passenger side. I'll have to take a look in the engine bay to see. Thanks for watching!
Hey great video! Just wondering if there's another way to connect the speakers without cutting the factory connection? Are there adapters that can go at that connection above the housing? Thanks!
Hey, I'm sure there are adapters you could buy, but I just didn't look into it. I don't know for sure, but I'd guess that you could find them on Amazon pretty easy. Thanks for watching!
Well done. Where do you get the front lift. I got a sequoia same year I would like to level it.
I just got mine on Amazon or eBay, I honestly don't remember. But it's a 2" leveling spacer from supreme suspensions! Thanks for watching!
where did you get your radio from im struggling to find one with the cables and stuff
This video talks specifically about the head unit I've got. I used an adapter harness from crutchfield to keep the factory wiring in tact. Thanks for watching
ua-cam.com/video/z10_DbflgKo/v-deo.html
If you have a JBL upgraded stereo, none of this will work! The crossovers are in the amp, and the amp will ONLY work with the stock head unit. I did not know any of this when I got my truck.
To add a sub I just got an amp that can take speaker-level inputs and spliced them into the rear speaker circuit. I use a Qudelix-5k Bluetooth receiver with a parametric equalizer inside the DAC chip, and I drop the bass by 12dB below 250hz then re-amplify it. It sounds complicated but it works great
Huh, thanks for the heads up! I definitely don't know much about car audio systems, but I'm sure this will help out other people who may be running into that issue. Thanks for watching
Why would the stock amplifier not work with anything but the head unit thats stock? I'm in the middle of upgrading all my stuff now. About to put in the head unit tomorrow or something and I'm going to run another amplifier for my subwoofers but was planning on keeping the original for my door speakers
The stock head unit and amp are essentially one unit, located in two different places. They won't work without each other. The crossovers are inside the amp for some reason. I don't know why JBL did it this way but they did, apparently it's common across different manufacturers
Are the front a rear speakers the same?
Yep they're the same front and back! Thanks for watching
Hey sal I’m current working on installing the same sub into my 2002 tundra. I have the same head unit too. I noticed the wiring kit comes with a sub wire with two rca outputs but the Atoto seems to only have one output. I noticed you have something linked in the description. Is it one rca to one rca? Or does it go one rca to two?
Hey man, sorry for the late response!! In the research I found, the sub only needs 1 input to operate normally. So I just used a 1:1 rca cable. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
Going back and adding more sound deadening material will make a big difference and you will not be dissatisfied!
Wouldn't spray-on bedliner type stuff do the same thing?
It very well may, I hadn't thought about that until now. Thanks for watching!
I did mine (04 dbl cab) with spray-on rubberized undercoating a few years ago. It made a big difference not only in the audio sounding better but also road noise was reduced.
I’m thinking about buying the sub you got, does it have some good bass?
Hey Nathan, if you're looking for window rattling bass this isn't it, but sitting in the drivers seat you definitely feel a significant difference and turned all the way up it bumps pretty good. I will say that because it is super focused under the drivers seat and not in the backseat, it doesn't rumble the whole cab. I tried it out sitting in the passenger seat and you hear a difference, but its not as noticeable. Sitting in the drivers seat, you feel a big difference and I think its worth it. Thanks for watching - Sal
How much sound proofing did you use? What sq ft amount did you buy and did you have left overs?
I bought the 50mil, and got 52sq ft. And it was way too much for the 4 doors lol. The 26ft package is probably enough. It's honestly been a while since I did this, but I remember having a lot leftover. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Remind me if I'm wrong but you did not do your floors correct?
I bought an 02' a few months ago for 2k with 140k miles but a bad transmission. I'm currently rebuilding it myself in my garage with upgraded components. Unfortunately these have a known issue with the torrington bearing behind the overdrive planetary gear. I'm also ordering new speakers and stereo this week so this is helpful. Also..if you ever encounter door latch issues. I fixed / modded mine without spending the $250 per latch. Even the new ones are flawed! Lastly, did you do anything with or for the small tweeter and back door speakers yet?
That's really cool that you're rebuilding it yourself. As far as the tweeters, I haven't done anything yet, but I did replace the back door speakers with the same ones I did up front. I don't know if it was super worth it, but I figured why not. Thanks for watching!
@@JDMDriveway Luckily there are enough good videos of rebuilding the A340 that I felt confident enough to do it! - With the speakers I'm trying to gauge if getting ones without a built in tweeter is the way to go since the already has them... i.e.; wondering if doubling up on tweeters is ok or not. I'm no stereo genius.
How's the tranny rebuild coming? Couple questions, what were your symptoms on the tranny needing rebuilt? Also I heard that the valve bodies get clogged up on our A340 tranny, any thoughts on that? I've had to replace the lock up solenoid when my 00 wasn't moving anywhere. Did a pan drop and new fluid and added a little bit of Auto rx and it seems to be shifting like butter ATM. I think I'm gonna do another drain and refill real soon just to do it. It makes it nice having a drain plug on everything on the first gens. Also do you have a link to the upgraded tranny parts? Thanks
@@garybrady7245 I’m putting mine back in today/tomorrow. My wife and I did a full rebuild in our garage. The issue is common, a bad overdrive planetary gear. We bought it this way.. got the truck for $2200 and 140k miles. The issue is dual-fold..
1- towing in overdrive in hills and not watching the temps (which you can’t do without a gauge) and,
2- the torrington bearing directly between the overdrive ring gear and planetary gear is insufficiently sized.
I found a place in Canada that was modding these for a time, machining the ring gear (and or planetary) a little deeper/wider to allow for a slightly wider and thicker torrington to better cope with stress and heat buildup. This is also why keeping the fluid temps under 190F is very VERY important.
In our case the bearing and race were 100% gone.. completely obliterated and melted. This is what happens and in turn wrecks the planetary and ring.. which are now becoming rare as hens teeth to source used (we got a set for $175) or you can buy new from Toyota for $1000.
3- People assume, because of endless heresay in forums, FB, etc, that this issue was limited to only the 00-02 Tundra. The trans shop (in fact 3 of them) emphatically said it can happen to any of them up to 05 with the A340. And if you carefully search part numbers as I did, you’ll find no part number changes across those years. So unless Toyota somehow fixed this in some other manner I don’t see that it was “fixed” at the factory by AISIN.
If yours is still operational I highly suggest doing a fluid flush with pan cleanout, inspect the magnets, and replace the filter. When driving, always switch out of overdrive before encountering hills whenever towing. Lastly, don’t tow more that 6,000-6,500lbs total. These transmissions are in fact surprisingly small for a v8 truck.
As for other remedies: Get a slightly larger trans cooler like the Hayden 679. Add a Derale 13011 inline thermostat. Add a trans temp gauge and mount it in the pan or at the return line just before pan. I did all of those as upgrades and peace of mind.
Lastly, we rebuilt the trans with upgrades: Raybestos clutches and steels, new rubber o-rings, and a TransGo HD2 kit for the valve body, new Hercoo solenoids, and reman torq converter. We did all of it in our garage with a $100 trans mount (red one) off Amazon (requires a little cutting with angle grinder to notch out where fluid pump is) and a spring compressor also purchased on Amazon. Aside from those two, I had to make a bar puller to remove the pump and a bar puller to remove the overdrive center support. You also need a few long snap ring pliars, like 12” straight and 12” with 90-deg end. Lastly, we did not replace the copper coated internal bushings because they looked ok, and a bushing kit to remove them costs like $300 and was something we wouldn’t really use again..
My other YT page is RideorDieFab so follow it. I’ll be posting all the repair videos there very soon. It actually wasn’t a hard job, just tedious and you have to pay careful attention to all the details and have some feeler gauges and airgun to check some tolerances and perform 3 or 4 pressure checks to make sure the clutch packs operate. And to be clear.. I’ve worked on cars a lot but had never rebuilt a trans before.
@oldowl4290 I gotta tip my hat to you for adding to the first gen knowledge in my hard drive (my brain lol) I'm very impressed with your excellent reply and must thank you! And yes I do have the glowshift gauge with the sensor right into the side of the pan that I made with a universal drain plug from Auto Zone. One that the sensor screws into the center of itself. And have been watching my tranny Temps for a few months now with the average being around 165-173F that's with the oem auxiliary cooler. That's actually my next project is switching out the cooler with a little bit beefier one. I did order the B&M 70268 I think that was the part number but I didn't like the inner core space that it provided. It was like half the thickness of the oem so I sent it back. And I know another thing that will hurt these trannys is of course the unknown pink milkshake that we all love so well. If you don't catch it quickly it's over it's just a matter of time. But I am still working on getting all of my transmission fluid clean to where it needs to be I just did a drain and refill after running almost 3000 miles on new fluid. That's when I found out you better have a decent fluid or the tranny will not like it at all. Been using the Valvolene Max life full synthetic fluid and having good reactions to it so that's what I'll stick with. But I slowly but surely brought life back into my tranny no doubt in my mind because it was slipping and not budging to now it's shifting nice. The lock ups even working now that I never noticed before with my rrrrs slightly over 2000 doing 50 mph and now I can feel it kick down and observe the r gauge at 17-1800 at 50mph telling you its crazy how strong these trannys really are
Is the small vented circle thats next to the door handle a tweeder? When you took the door off nothing was behind it so was just wondering. Thanks!
Yeah it should be, and I believe the speaker is actually bolted into the door panel, not the metal part if that makes sense. Thanks for watching!
Hello, did you bypass the tweeter or just hook it back up? Thanks
@@andyburton6209 i just unhooked it from the wire harness and then clicked it back in when i put the door back on. I was trying to upgrade the tweeder but honestly couldnt find one that fit and matched up to the wire harness
I am having trouble finding a replacement also.
Thank you for the quick response.
Your channel is great, keep up the good work!
Do you know if you can add a second sub under the passenger seat?
Yep, you should be able to. It will fit the same as the drivers side, and the wiring shouldn't be any more difficult. I've considered doing that myself. Thanks for watching
Do you still have the factory amp?
Yes, it is still back there in the dash, but it is bypassed with the new wiring. I guess it wouldn't play well with the head unit. Not too sure on the details. Thanks for watching!
For the subwoofer did you sanded down the seatbelt bolts to put your negative?
I actually used one of the seat bracket bolts, but honestly the seatbelt bolt is probably a better option lol
@@JDMDriveway ohh I meant the seat bracket bolts not the seatbelts but alright thanks !😂
😂😂 yeah I don't think I sanded them down at all, but it probably wouldn't hurt to
hey so you used 4 of the kicker speaker right? front doors and back
Yep, they were all the same. Honestly, I'd probably tell you to save your money on the rears at least to start. See if you're happy with just the fronts and if not, then do the rears too. I just don't feel like they contribute too much to the sound in the cab. Just my 2 cents. Thanks for watching!
you the man mang! ty@@JDMDriveway
about to pull the trigger on this set-up! looking back do you wish you'd put the sub under the passenger seat instead of the driver? feel like i'd rather have it there for some reason. probably would complicate the install though huh.
lets hear the sub
Lol it's hard to capture on camera, but it sounds good! Thanks for watching
how many watte speaker did you upgrade ?
The new Kicker speakers are 240 watts. Thanks for watching - Sal
i have 2 under subs under driver and pass
Nice, I can imagine that helps the bass a lot. I'm happy with my single one, but another one couldn't hurt lol thanks for watching
Bro, you do not.have to be an audiophile to know the speaker size.....c mon! 😂
Lol hey it's a learning experience over here! Thanks for watching
Actually there's a couple different variants out there. Mine are totally different. My door cards are different and the speaker mounts are different as well. On top of that the front speakers and rear speakers are different in the same truck and the mounts in the rear are totally different as well.