I'm coming here 5 years after you posted this. I don't know where you are now bro but you saved my bacon! I had shops throwing electronic parts at this thing even telling me my cats were clogged. I saw this video, took apart the front end of my engine, and found that crank sprocket had an entire belt tooth worth of wear in the keyway. My valve and ignition timing was probably going back and forth 10° or more. This is a mechanical problem that seems like an electrical problem to everyone who looks at it. Those shops were just going to keep taking my money and they would have never found this. Thanks a million for posting this I'd send you 50 bucks right now if I had your PayPal.
This is the type of crap you find on a motor teardown, very VERY difficult to find in your situation (not tearing down). Really good stuff man, definition of not giving up. I've always felt when a job goes perfectly you learn nothing, this 3.4 sent you to school and you came out with a well deserved degree. ALSO I've got a 98 Tacoma with 345k and no idea when timing belt was changed last AND she seems to be lacking in the power department, will definitely be checking this when doin that job, something I had ZERO idea I should look at while I'm in there. Thanks big time for that, think I'll be checkin out more of your skills. I work on shit, I know how hard issues like that can be. This video is just awesome... and greatly appreciated.
Absolutely!!! Computerization of automobiles is great, but no matter how "smart" the system is, it's always going to miss something that it wasn't programmed to observe. This is where you put the scan tool down and use your hands. My usual practice, when I buy a used vehicle from a seller who didn't keep good records, is to replace key components, fluids, and update records from that point forward. Peace of mind is better than being broken down away from home. Keep me posted on what you find.
@@tahahadada1936 is this a request of my channel or Mecca Tronics channel? What rear engine seal are you talking about? The rear main seal is the crankshaft seal on the back side of the engine.
@@tahahadada1936 I have videos showing pulling both an auto transmission and manual transmission on my channel. Auto Trans - ua-cam.com/video/oZDSjlxl2Q4/v-deo.html Manual Trans - ua-cam.com/video/5PJPZ5-AK-I/v-deo.html The manual trans removal was necessary for a clutch replacement and at the beginning of Part 2 we show replacing the rear main seal. I did an auto transmission replacement on a FJ Cruiser and replaced the rear main seal on that rig as well using a different technique to get the seal out. About 12 minutes into this video you can see how I removed the seal with a hose pick tool: ua-cam.com/video/4K1mD0bRgJ4/v-deo.html
Man, I just wish that when I took my Taco in to the dealer to fix, they'd had as good a mechanic as you obviously are! I'd read about this issue and tried to tell the dealership's mechanic but he said he didn't know what I was talking about. So, hundreds of bucks later and it still ran terribly. I've got to replace the water pump and, as long as I'm in there, I'm going to check that cog. Thanks, my friend! Excellent video!
leadvillejim I appreciate that. It was more mind boggling than nerve-wracking. Huge relief to have finally found the actual problem. I uploaded the FIX video. Let me know what you think.
Good job man. Nice video and great job showing exactly what was going on. You saved a lot of other people a lot of time and money. Very much appreciated man!
At 55 years old I'll sometimes walk to my tool box and realize that I've completely forgotten what tool I came for. Talk about early dementia. But this video here, I'll never forget shit like this. Good job my brother.And when I say brother screw that race crap. Professional Tech watch these videos and consistently finish your sentences, and know what you're about to say and do beforehand.
That’s happens to me and I’m 25. I have to stand next to my box for awhile or go back to the car and then I remember. I had a cerebral hemorrhage at a young age from a car accident. I blame it on that anyways.
@@Gregg0112 Iam sure everyone has these days. But when I was in my twenties there was nothing to forget, I woke up around 33 anos, our study of auto- tech when backed up by years of successful repairs makes us some of the most essential people in society. Turns out that most men regardless of age have nothing important to "forget" about.
Thanks my friend for this video. Although my 2002 Tacoma that I bought last yesr, runs fine, I am very glad I got this knowledge from you, because If my truck starts losing power in the future, I will know where to go to find the cause. Thank you ! Your friend from Puerto Rico, Edwin Oliveras
Nice catch! Most technicians would just continue to throw parts at the problem to only make them look like an idiot and pissing off the customer in the process to the point that they will never come back. I've been a dealership technician for over 2 decades and I always get stuck fixing my coworkers come backs after their 2nd failed attempt which happens more often than I care to admit. I guess that's part of being the shop foreman. At least the jobs pay well and I get to see the odd problems that most never get to see . Love to see videos like this, keep them coming.
Whenever you/we do a timing belt replacement, Do so accordingly to the Toyota spec. I had mine done by a Toyota M/M after a reputable shop replaced the timing belt (only), later a phantom oil was found. The OE Toyota 5VZ 3.4L V6 kit that the Toyota M/M used contained the following: New Parts: 1pcs Timing Belt 13568-69095/13568-YZZ03 1pcs Idler Roller 13503-62040 1pcs Tensioner Roller 13505-62070 1pcs Front Crankshaft Seal 90311-40022 2pcs Front Camshaft Seals 90311-38051 1pcs Water Pump 16100-69398-83 1pcs Hydraulic Tensioner 13540-62021 1pcs Thermostat 90916-03075 1pcs Air Conditioning Belt 99364-20870 1pcs Alternator Belt 90080-91090 1pcs Power Steering Belt 90080-91126/99364-21070 By following the Toyota M/M spec and not just replacing the timing belt only, you/we will save $ & acquire a better working knowledge. Compatible Model: 1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner This complete parts list was found on eBay and was the same as the parts list/repairs I needed to do to locate and remove the phantom oil leak, it would have also provided discovery of your diminished crankshaft pin/key that is/was causing you throttle sensor problems and would have saved you the unnecessary purchase of a new throttle body. www.ebay.com/itm/387632969820?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pm3sj6-ht-a&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ZZpYMdAVSdq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Timing belt tensioner bolt must coated with anti seizure blue compound otherwise the bolt becoming lose due to vibration ( it lose on my 3.4 4runner after timing belt changed, but no piston damaged because most toyota are non iInterference engines) . this is a good video, brother !
I really appreciate this video is really helpful for me, I just removed the my timing belt in my 2002 4Runner and is and had the same problem, really thank you very much, this video helped me a lot
Glad i seen this video my 3.4 4runner been a dog since i bought it used i know the timing belt needs replaced how hard was that crank gear to replace if mine is in same situation ?
I had a 87” 22RE , that had power then the throttle seemed like a a point would bring back power, a happy point! Could that have been the problem. It still haunts me today. It had a sweet spot and ran great, pass that sweet spot and the power was gone. Thanks for everyone’s time. If you have any ideas, I could sleep better knowing what caused this problem. Miss that truck. Very low miles on the motor...
Thanks 👍. It was baffling at first, but I always resort to old-school investigations vs relying on scan tools. In this case, none of the scan tool data added up, especially with the ecu not holding any code once I cycled the key.
I had this issue about 5 yrs ago. For the life of me, I could fix the dang lost power. Finally, I took it to a mechanic and he found that exact movement on the timing gear. Apparently the chuck key ate into it.
My 01 Camry skipped timing but still ran ok, but it knocked like a rod bearing for 3 months at idle, the Cam seal was leaking a Qt a week and soaked the timing belt, until it started stalling, then I checked the belt and it ran great after I replaced it.
Hey man just came across this video as I’m about to do the timing belt kit on my 5vzfe. What’s the fix for this problem if I run into it? Can you just pull that front gear out (like you did) and it will stay in place or do you need a new crankshaft timing pulley and timing belt guide?
I just did the t belt in my 4Runner and the belt was in good shape and the hydraulic tensioner was good but the previous person to do the belt had the crank off by 2 teeth. Or if I lined the crank up the cams would be off one tooth. No check engine but that must have moved my power somewhere else in the rev range.
Thank you for the video. I am on the same path now. Somehow my truck suddenly has no power. I had to tow home. Now I found out the timming is way advance and the RPM about 1300 RPM at idle. It is a bit high. Hopefully it is just a TPS sensor. Hopefully it is not a big problem like your.
Nice detective work bruh!!.( looks like your woodruff key might have broke ) I have been jumping all over the FSM and YT /forums trying to fix my engine's 'possible' Failsafe mode, 'wont go over 15 mph, full power loss after 2 seconds on peddle.. got codes thrown for Knock sensor, MAF, TBS, O2, Fuel pump, various other CEL codes none of which were the problem, But maybe I just have a timing issue Loose belt/ failing tensioner, I will definitely tear into it tomorrow and see if I have any slop in my belt and check my TDC marks Btw, Solving the mystery of the 5vz going into into Failsafe mode would a Super useful video for Timmy to do... If he sees this,
This is helpful! What did you do to correct the bottom -- crank spline? How'd you get that spindle to ride where it needs to? I have the same engine, 3.4L V6 on my '97 Tacoma 4x4... just turned 290K and got my first ever 'check engine' on the dash. The symptoms were, it started strong as always, it idled ok, there was no hesitation in acceleration but when I got to speed and the load fell away the RPM fell off as if I pulled my foot off the pedal. I wasn't able to get a reading on it. Five different devices couldn't read it. Toyota couldn't read it. The truck had a stroke, I've got the brain out getting refurbed and I'll get it back in like five days. I have been racking my head trying to figure out what might have caused the power glitch -- because the check engine light came on at the precise moment that the power fell off with no load. You showed how that can happen. Now all I got to know is what did you do to fix it, did you video the job? Thanks, KCOD
Hats off to you for diagnosing this, I've never seen anyone online mention this..how did you lock into position or did you just replace the part? Also when installing the new one how do you prevent it from happening again? Thank you
Michael Laz Thank you!! I ended up replacing the bad component, which was the cog at the crank. I posted the FIX video just now. Let me know what you think.
Good Job 👍Brother and THANKYOU for your helpful TUTORIAL. MUCH Appreciated. I Easily and Quickly Subscribed. Keep it up and thanks for the great content. Cheees!
Sounds like throttle body nonsense is caused by timing confusion: need a screen to log crank timing signals vs. cam timing - this instability would show up, as the drive hub on the crank walks around it's [trashed] keyway. Is there a handheld that can do that? I have an OBD tool, but don't think it can catch data with millisecond accuracy [plus the screen is too small].
That's exactly what happened, and lead me in the wrong direction originally. That +/-5 degree walk, had the ecu offering enough self correction, for me not to see anything wrong with the crank sensor signaling. As soon as I took the upper timing cover off, and hand cranked the engine, boom, delay in timing belt movement.
Awesome thanks for the info man planning on doing the timing belt as preventative maintenance on my 4runner that has 430,xxx awesome tip to keep in mind as I have not had one do that yet although I dont see alot of them aside from my own trucks. Great video 👍
When plugs and wires don't work I would go strait for the timing sometimes it will jump a tooth still run but not well. I can't imagine a throttle body going bad without visual damage. The TPS maybe but easy to check. Throttle body you just clean. Live and learn.
Hi look at your video and I got a Lotta good information from it. Thanks I’m working a 97 t100 I bought a rebuilt 3.4 and fuel pump but the truck won’t start any tips or videos on it. Thanks again.
I really hope I find my problem. 98 4runner 3.4 and on light acceleration I feel a jolt like if the engine misfires horrible but I have no CEL. Just bought it so i will have to check tomorrow
Did this engine by any chance have a tick or a knock coming from it? I've had a strange sound (sounds like a knock) that seems to be coming from the timing cover area for about 5 years since I've bought the truck. I've taken it to several mechanics, including what is supposed to be the best Toyota specialists in the Houston area and they suggest I have the timing belt serviced. So, I had it changed but the noise continues, though it seems not as loud now. During acceleration there is what feels like a miss but there is never a code and so I'm wondering if this is my problem?
Hey Robert. No, there was no ticking sounds on this engine. It almost sounds like you have a slightly bent valve, or a loose valve guide, or loose valve seat. Maybe have a compression and leak down test done, and see if those results match Factory expectations.
!!HATS OFF TO YOU SIR!! that is a demonstration of good old-fashioned SKILL & TECHNIQUE. these things cannot be learned at any tech school nor buy an apprenticeship. they can only be learned through years and years of figuring, struggling, trial & error'ing, engineering, reverse engineering, researching, getting advice, being creative & LEARNING TO BE A CREATIVE TROUBLESHOOTER! which is the hardest part. even factory certified techs with straight A's lack the skill and technique to solve problems like these. and most of them will never learn these skills because of how the dealers operate their service departments. any way man excellent troubleshooting and congrats on victory over your 5RZ-FE nightmare!!!. P.S. I hope you're working for an outfit that understands how valuable you are as a tech and pays you well.. cuz if not man I suggest you look for employment elsewhere. I quit my job with the Ford dealer in my town I could not work for the same wage as the tech's straight out of school. I found a job with a private fleet service Company literally make three times what the Ford dealer pay me, the company I work for takes guys with skills like ours and puts them on the road as mobile technicians. I only have to go into the shop sometimes four parts and once a month for a safety meeting. you should look into it. I found out there's Fleet Service shops everywhere. GOOD LUCK BRO! Steven. www.brittbikeguy2000@gmail.com
i bought a stored 2002 landcruiser prado that has less than 10000 mile it makes a pop sound when i floor it.... i think its the spark plugs... also sometimes it will not down shift when i floor it and i need to fully stop for it to go back to normal... it has the same 3.4 5vz-fe engine and 4speed automatic a343f
I have the same engine in a 4runner. When starting cold, after iac closes, when i spank throttle there is a bog before idle raises. When i start engine warm, it fires once but doesnt start, then its hard to start after this. Does this sound like a sloppy haronic ballancer gear like youve got?
Thanks for the video! Thankfully, my sprocket didn't have this wear, but thanks to you I was watching carefully when doing my own timing belt replacement. That wear looks quite unusual though. How many miles did the truck have on it? Manual or automatic?
I've got a 2002 4 runner, i scanned it with the last Snapon last generation scanner and every thing is perfect apparently, but on highway I've got some like a misfiring but it's not, i mean, it feels like no power at all for a 1/100 of a second and constantly for 3 to 5 seconds till i push throttle all the way button. So I'm thinking... Could it be the same issue that you've got?
Ok. Great advice. My 93 starts but only runs for 2 seconds. I had it running a few weeks ago but it would not go over 70 kms. Checked, maf, coil, dist, fuel pressure, timing, etc Im lost. What next?
After replacing cam sensor, all pulleys, belt, and tensioner. I made sure all timing is correct, no broken teeth on crankshaft sprocket and still getting P0340. The truck won’t start. I’ve looked everywhere online for info and tried everything...nothing Any ideas? maybe replace crankshaft sensor but the code isn’t reading that issue. 2000 4runner
This guy didn't even know if it was a 3.4 or 3.6 liter engine. Kind of hard to miss that, when it said 3400 on the timing belt cover. There are so many different reasons for sluggish throttle or hesitation; man you cost this customer a lot of money in diagnostics. I had sluggish throttle and hesitation, and when spark plugs, new coils, and plug wires didn't work, I replaced the MAF sensor with an aftermarket one and the problem was fixed. Cost me $37 for an aftermarket one on Amazon, so I bought a second one in case that one failed.
besides being worn out, why does the gear/cog in the crank move. It would have been nice to see what was locking it in place after you pulled it out a bit and turned it. Great job diagnosing it. That thing will cause all sorts of problems and readings
Still hoping to see that "fix video." Would love to see the follow-up to your investigation as I think I've got the same issue with my 98 Tacoma. Thanks!
I think one reason for the cog keyway and woodruff key becoming worn is the crankshaft pulley bolt not being torqued to spec. and it works loose. The spec is 217 ft/lbs for the first generation 3.4 v6 tacoma pulley bolt, I used a new bolt from Toyota that has thread locking compound pre-applied, if I were to re-use the old bolt I would use blue loc-tite on it, but it's a $10 part so I use a new one.
I'm not sure honestly. The truck ran perfectly fine, we parked it because we got a new truck. Just one day out of nowhere it wouldn't start. We put a new battery and cables new ignition igniter, new crankshaft sensor. We plugged in my dad's autel and had not active fault codes. We're lost here. Thanks for your reply. We really appreciate it
Hmmm, yes that is strange. I would start checking some ground wires, and any exposed wiring under the hood. Rodents or a bird may have harvested some parts off of the truck, to eat or build a nest with. If you can pull the bezel off of the center console where the radio is mounted, check behind there.
I'm coming here 5 years after you posted this. I don't know where you are now bro but you saved my bacon! I had shops throwing electronic parts at this thing even telling me my cats were clogged. I saw this video, took apart the front end of my engine, and found that crank sprocket had an entire belt tooth worth of wear in the keyway. My valve and ignition timing was probably going back and forth 10° or more. This is a mechanical problem that seems like an electrical problem to everyone who looks at it. Those shops were just going to keep taking my money and they would have never found this. Thanks a million for posting this I'd send you 50 bucks right now if I had your PayPal.
This is the type of crap you find on a motor teardown, very VERY difficult to find in your situation (not tearing down). Really good stuff man, definition of not giving up. I've always felt when a job goes perfectly you learn nothing, this 3.4 sent you to school and you came out with a well deserved degree. ALSO I've got a 98 Tacoma with 345k and no idea when timing belt was changed last AND she seems to be lacking in the power department, will definitely be checking this when doin that job, something I had ZERO idea I should look at while I'm in there. Thanks big time for that, think I'll be checkin out more of your skills. I work on shit, I know how hard issues like that can be. This video is just awesome... and greatly appreciated.
Absolutely!!! Computerization of automobiles is great, but no matter how "smart" the system is, it's always going to miss something that it wasn't programmed to observe. This is where you put the scan tool down and use your hands. My usual practice, when I buy a used vehicle from a seller who didn't keep good records, is to replace key components, fluids, and update records from that point forward. Peace of mind is better than being broken down away from home. Keep me posted on what you find.
Thanks for sharing this. I work on these engines a lot with my own UA-cam channel and this is great information to know. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks for your response and for watching. Subscribed to your channel
Big fan ,could we have a video on rear engine seal and the crank shaft seal ,thanks .
@@tahahadada1936 is this a request of my channel or Mecca Tronics channel? What rear engine seal are you talking about? The rear main seal is the crankshaft seal on the back side of the engine.
@@TimmyTheToolman yes that one Timmy and yes am asking you Timmy
@@tahahadada1936 I have videos showing pulling both an auto transmission and manual transmission on my channel.
Auto Trans - ua-cam.com/video/oZDSjlxl2Q4/v-deo.html
Manual Trans - ua-cam.com/video/5PJPZ5-AK-I/v-deo.html
The manual trans removal was necessary for a clutch replacement and at the beginning of Part 2 we show replacing the rear main seal.
I did an auto transmission replacement on a FJ Cruiser and replaced the rear main seal on that rig as well using a different technique to get the seal out. About 12 minutes into this video you can see how I removed the seal with a hose pick tool: ua-cam.com/video/4K1mD0bRgJ4/v-deo.html
Nothing better than learning valuable information from someone that is really good at what they do. Thank you sir!
72drowssap You're welcome.
Man, I just wish that when I took my Taco in to the dealer to fix, they'd had as good a mechanic as you obviously are! I'd read about this issue and tried to tell the dealership's mechanic but he said he didn't know what I was talking about. So, hundreds of bucks later and it still ran terribly. I've got to replace the water pump and, as long as I'm in there, I'm going to check that cog. Thanks, my friend! Excellent video!
Well done, sir, and thank you for sharing that with us. That's like solving a mystery, and despite all the work, must feel satisfying. Take care
leadvillejim I appreciate that. It was more mind boggling than nerve-wracking. Huge relief to have finally found the actual problem. I uploaded the FIX video. Let me know what you think.
That was a great find! Wish you were where I lived you would certainly be the mechanic I'd use.
Benton Ratcliff I'll be sure to post more troubleshooting videos, and you can share with your Mechanic
I’m five years late but you still the man
Thanks a bunch man my 4runner I bought has this exact problem aswell just confirmed!! THANK YOU
Teddy Wells you're welcome. Thanks for watching 👍
@@MeccaEl Where to get a Throttle manifold for cheaper, those things are expensive?
@@Brian-vz7xe got this one from Advanced Auto. I can't rmbr the exact cost, but it was more than $500
Good job man. Nice video and great job showing exactly what was going on. You saved a lot of other people a lot of time and money. Very much appreciated man!
Craig Mann I appreciate that a lot. Check out the FIX video
At 55 years old I'll sometimes walk to my tool box and realize that I've completely forgotten what tool I came for. Talk about early dementia. But this video here, I'll never forget shit like this. Good job my brother.And when I say brother screw that race crap. Professional Tech watch these videos and consistently finish your sentences, and know what you're about to say and do beforehand.
I appreciate your comment. It's guys like you, that I came up behind, learning everything experience taught you. 👍
That’s happens to me and I’m 25. I have to stand next to my box for awhile or go back to the car and then I remember. I had a cerebral hemorrhage at a young age from a car accident. I blame it on that anyways.
@@Gregg0112 Iam sure everyone has these days. But when I was in my twenties there was nothing to forget, I woke up around 33 anos, our study of auto- tech when backed up by years of successful repairs makes us some of the most essential people in society. Turns out that most men regardless of age have nothing important to "forget" about.
I don't have anything wrong but I still lose train of thought.
?
Thanks my friend for this video. Although my 2002 Tacoma that I bought last yesr, runs fine, I am very glad I got this knowledge from you, because If my truck starts losing power in the future, I will know where to go to find the cause. Thank you ! Your friend from Puerto Rico, Edwin Oliveras
Good to know, that's something I wouldn't have thought to look at. Good job!
Thank you, and thanks for watching 👍
Nice catch! Most technicians would just continue to throw parts at the problem to only make them look like an idiot and pissing off the customer in the process to the point that they will never come back. I've been a dealership technician for over 2 decades and I always get stuck fixing my coworkers come backs after their 2nd failed attempt which happens more often than I care to admit. I guess that's part of being the shop foreman. At least the jobs pay well and I get to see the odd problems that most never get to see . Love to see videos like this, keep them coming.
Whenever you/we do a timing belt replacement,
Do so accordingly to the Toyota spec.
I had mine done by a Toyota M/M after a reputable shop replaced the timing belt (only), later a phantom oil was found.
The OE Toyota 5VZ 3.4L V6 kit that the Toyota M/M used contained the following:
New Parts:
1pcs Timing Belt 13568-69095/13568-YZZ03
1pcs Idler Roller 13503-62040
1pcs Tensioner Roller 13505-62070
1pcs Front Crankshaft Seal 90311-40022
2pcs Front Camshaft Seals 90311-38051
1pcs Water Pump 16100-69398-83
1pcs Hydraulic Tensioner 13540-62021
1pcs Thermostat 90916-03075
1pcs Air Conditioning Belt 99364-20870
1pcs Alternator Belt 90080-91090
1pcs Power Steering Belt 90080-91126/99364-21070
By following the Toyota M/M spec and not just replacing the timing belt only, you/we will save $ & acquire a better working knowledge.
Compatible Model:
1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner
This complete parts list was found on eBay and was the same as the parts list/repairs I needed to do to locate and remove the phantom oil leak,
it would have also provided discovery of your diminished crankshaft pin/key that is/was causing you throttle sensor problems and would have saved you the unnecessary purchase of a new throttle body.
www.ebay.com/itm/387632969820?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pm3sj6-ht-a&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ZZpYMdAVSdq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
That was a damn good find! I like the way you explain things as well. Fast, simple and quick to detail. Subscribed!
Vincent Gelvez thank you
I'm surprised it still ran...crazy.... Good work...
The owner was lucky, it was always off +/-5 degrees, which is a freaking lot of play, but not enough for the piston and valve to meet.
@@MeccaEl I'm pretty sure its a non interference engine, the piston won't hit an open valve at tdc
Timing belt tensioner bolt must coated with anti seizure blue compound otherwise the bolt becoming lose due to vibration ( it lose on my 3.4 4runner after timing belt changed, but no piston damaged because most toyota are non iInterference engines) . this is a good video, brother !
I appreciate it, and the info. Thanks for watching 👍
Excellent mechanic, thank you for making a video on what you found
Meat Man you're welcome. Thanks for watching.
Good gremlin to look for. I’ll be at least this deep in a 5vzfe pretty soon. Thank you for the tip.
Ben Shoaf you're welcome. Thanks for watching,
Very usefull! thank you for taking the time by making this video, gonna have my eyes open for this issue in the future!
Funkydott and thank-you. I posted the FIX video. Let me know what you think.
I really appreciate this video is really helpful for me, I just removed the my timing belt in my 2002 4Runner and is and had the same problem, really thank you very much, this video helped me a lot
Thanks for watching. I'm glad I was able to help you. Happy New Year
Way to go brother! Thank you very much for this video. Explained beautifully!
Great job! I bet that was driving you crazy until the light bulb went on.
Oooh yes!!! 🤣🤣🤣. I actually figured it out while I was sleeping. I solve a lot of problems in my dreams.
Exceptional work sir, thank you for posting. Very informative and exemplary skills. Thanks again!
Ryan McKee thank you
Thank you for the video my 2001 4runner with the v6 has 283 thousand miles and running strong hopefully I won't have this problem with mine
Michael Willey have your Mechanic check, at your next timing belt service. Cheap insurance.
Michael Willey ur good it only happens on 03-04 3.4s
I have 316k on mine. Runs like new.
Just saw this, good find and great mechanic
Thank you, and thanks for watching
Dam ...never thought of that ... Great work bro I had the same problem on my t100 3.4
Daniel Ramirez you're man. Thanks for watching
I didn't even know that was possible. Thanks for the info!
I appreciate you for finding this issue!
Glad i seen this video my 3.4 4runner been a dog since i bought it used i know the timing belt needs replaced how hard was that crank gear to replace if mine is in same situation ?
XDK I think it's a 19mm Crank bolt, and it slides right off. Very easy
Bro!!! You are a BEAST!!!!
I appreciate you. Thanks for watching
I had a 87” 22RE , that had power then the throttle seemed like a a point would bring back power, a happy point! Could that have been the problem. It still haunts me today. It had a sweet spot and ran great, pass that sweet spot and the power was gone. Thanks for everyone’s time. If you have any ideas, I could sleep better knowing what caused this problem. Miss that truck. Very low miles on the motor...
Wow
That would have been easy to miss.
Good job!
Randy Boyle Thanks a lot. And thanks for watching.
Great post, easily missed in engine exam.
T- horse thank you
Wow that's great! To diagnose this, it's not easy
Thanks 👍. It was baffling at first, but I always resort to old-school investigations vs relying on scan tools. In this case, none of the scan tool data added up, especially with the ecu not holding any code once I cycled the key.
I had this issue about 5 yrs ago. For the life of me, I could fix the dang lost power. Finally, I took it to a mechanic and he found that exact movement on the timing gear. Apparently the chuck key ate into it.
This is a very common issue with the supra 2jzgte engine. Common fix is to add some welds to the back to ensure it won't come apart.
My woodruff key ended up stripping and wearing after this happening to my 2000 tacoma I just used a welder and tacked it up
Is the woodruff key what the pulley fits into?
Thanks for all the info, something I need to check on my 98 4runner.
Dennis Forster you're welcome.
that's some good troubleshooting you did there.
My 01 Camry skipped timing but still ran ok, but it knocked like a rod bearing for 3 months at idle, the Cam seal was leaking a Qt a week and soaked the timing belt, until it started stalling, then I checked the belt and it ran great after I replaced it.
Very good content! Great information, and direction!
Rumble Garage thank you!!
Great observation and post man. I have a 99 Tacoma SR5 3.4l. Now I know what to look out for if I ever run into this problem. 💯💯
Sweet. Thanks for watching
@@MeccaEl Yeah for sure
Smart thinking right here.
Hey man just came across this video as I’m about to do the timing belt kit on my 5vzfe. What’s the fix for this problem if I run into it? Can you just pull that front gear out (like you did) and it will stay in place or do you need a new crankshaft timing pulley and timing belt guide?
Or do you need a whole new crankshaft?
I just did the t belt in my 4Runner and the belt was in good shape and the hydraulic tensioner was good but the previous person to do the belt had the crank off by 2 teeth. Or if I lined the crank up the cams would be off one tooth. No check engine but that must have moved my power somewhere else in the rev range.
Sounds like the ECM also compensated
Excellent work young man👍
Thank you for the video. I am on the same path now. Somehow my truck suddenly has no power. I had to tow home. Now I found out the timming is way advance and the RPM about 1300 RPM at idle. It is a bit high. Hopefully it is just a TPS sensor. Hopefully it is not a big problem like your.
SKILLS MY MAN!!!!
Thanks man, and thanks for watching.
Nice detective work bruh!!.( looks like your woodruff key might have broke ) I have been jumping all over the FSM and YT /forums trying to fix my engine's 'possible' Failsafe mode, 'wont go over 15 mph, full power loss after 2 seconds on peddle.. got codes thrown for Knock sensor, MAF, TBS, O2, Fuel pump, various other CEL codes none of which were the problem, But maybe I just have a timing issue Loose belt/ failing tensioner, I will definitely tear into it tomorrow and see if I have any slop in my belt and check my TDC marks Btw, Solving the mystery of the 5vz going into into Failsafe mode would a Super useful video for Timmy to do... If he sees this,
You're a good troubleshooter.
This is helpful! What did you do to correct the bottom -- crank spline? How'd you get that spindle to ride where it needs to? I have the same engine, 3.4L V6 on my '97 Tacoma 4x4... just turned 290K and got my first ever 'check engine' on the dash. The symptoms were, it started strong as always, it idled ok, there was no hesitation in acceleration but when I got to speed and the load fell away the RPM fell off as if I pulled my foot off the pedal. I wasn't able to get a reading on it. Five different devices couldn't read it. Toyota couldn't read it. The truck had a stroke, I've got the brain out getting refurbed and I'll get it back in like five days. I have been racking my head trying to figure out what might have caused the power glitch -- because the check engine light came on at the precise moment that the power fell off with no load. You showed how that can happen. Now all I got to know is what did you do to fix it, did you video the job? Thanks, KCOD
Check out the second video, I answer all of your questions there
Hats off to you for diagnosing this, I've never seen anyone online mention this..how did you lock into position or did you just replace the part? Also when installing the new one how do you prevent it from happening again?
Thank you
Michael Laz Thank you!! I ended up replacing the bad component, which was the cog at the crank. I posted the FIX video just now. Let me know what you think.
Good Job 👍Brother and THANKYOU for your helpful TUTORIAL. MUCH Appreciated.
I Easily and Quickly Subscribed.
Keep it up and thanks for the great content.
Cheees!
Sharp find. Thanks!
You're welcome, and thanks for watching
Sounds like throttle body nonsense is caused by timing confusion: need a screen to log crank timing signals vs. cam timing - this instability would show up, as the drive hub on the crank walks around it's [trashed] keyway. Is there a handheld that can do that? I have an OBD tool, but don't think it can catch data with millisecond accuracy [plus the screen is too small].
That's exactly what happened, and lead me in the wrong direction originally. That +/-5 degree walk, had the ecu offering enough self correction, for me not to see anything wrong with the crank sensor signaling. As soon as I took the upper timing cover off, and hand cranked the engine, boom, delay in timing belt movement.
Great find. great tutorial and explanation 👍
At least you found the problem other mechanis just change things thst don't fix the problem...
Bring piston#1to top death center while crankshaft with new sprocket and new woodblock key aligned up
Awesome thanks for the info man planning on doing the timing belt as preventative maintenance on my 4runner that has 430,xxx awesome tip to keep in mind as I have not had one do that yet although I dont see alot of them aside from my own trucks. Great video 👍
Thank you. Keep me posted on how everything turned out, and thanks for watching.
Can you let me know what is the cost of the new throttle body and where can I find it ? Thanks so much.
I can't recall what vendor I went with, but there are some on Amazon, for about $60 on up.
Great video and information! Who would have thought about this as a problem??
Exactly!!! It was baffling. But, anytime something strange happens, just go back to the basics. Thanks for watching
Running into this issue on my truck but only when it's under load. Wondering my bearing is starting to go.
When you get a chance to, drop the oil pan to confirm.
Good job man I have a misfire issue too on my 5VZ . Question did your timing issue cause all cylinders to misfire or just one? I have a #4 misfire
Had a Random Multiple Misfire, I think that was P0300, along with the individual cylinder codes
most people dont change the pulleys for the timing belt system they just change the belt. The pulleys and bearings are very important
Top class work
Thanks! and thanks for watching.
When plugs and wires don't work I would go strait for the timing sometimes it will jump a tooth still run but not well. I can't imagine a throttle body going bad without visual damage. The TPS maybe but easy to check. Throttle body you just clean. Live and learn.
Thank you good sir for your excellent knowledge.
You're welcome, and thanks for watching
Spot on, thank you big time!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching
Hi look at your video and I got a Lotta good information from it. Thanks I’m working a 97 t100 I bought a rebuilt 3.4 and fuel pump but the truck won’t start any tips or videos on it. Thanks again.
Dude awesome vid. How did u end up Fixing it, replace or weld or something?
Tommy P thank-you. I ended up replacing the bad component. Check out the FIX video. Uploaded just now.
Thanks for the information, it was well explained.!!!
enrique sosa you're welcome. Check out the FIX video and let me know what you think.
I really hope I find my problem. 98 4runner 3.4 and on light acceleration I feel a jolt like if the engine misfires horrible but I have no CEL. Just bought it so i will have to check tomorrow
Let me know what you discover
Hey there Jursaw, did you end up fixing the problem? Mines a 96 and its doing the same thing as your
akav75 I haven’t been able to drive it since I couldn’t get it registered until yesterday. I will update this comment when I figure it out
Did this engine by any chance have a tick or a knock coming from it? I've had a strange sound (sounds like a knock) that seems to be coming from the timing cover area for about 5 years since I've bought the truck. I've taken it to several mechanics, including what is supposed to be the best Toyota specialists in the Houston area and they suggest I have the timing belt serviced. So, I had it changed but the noise continues, though it seems not as loud now. During acceleration there is what feels like a miss but there is never a code and so I'm wondering if this is my problem?
Hey Robert.
No, there was no ticking sounds on this engine. It almost sounds like you have a slightly bent valve, or a loose valve guide, or loose valve seat. Maybe have a compression and leak down test done, and see if those results match Factory expectations.
@@MeccaEl Thanks for the tip, that will be my next step!
!!HATS OFF TO YOU SIR!! that is a demonstration of good old-fashioned SKILL & TECHNIQUE. these things cannot be learned at any tech school nor buy an apprenticeship. they can only be learned through years and years of figuring, struggling, trial & error'ing, engineering, reverse engineering, researching, getting advice, being creative & LEARNING TO BE A CREATIVE TROUBLESHOOTER! which is the hardest part. even factory certified techs with straight A's lack the skill and technique to solve problems like these. and most of them will never learn these skills because of how the dealers operate their service departments. any way man excellent troubleshooting and congrats on victory over your 5RZ-FE nightmare!!!. P.S. I hope you're working for an outfit that understands how valuable you are as a tech and pays you well.. cuz if not man I suggest you look for employment elsewhere. I quit my job with the Ford dealer in my town I could not work for the same wage as the tech's straight out of school. I found a job with a private fleet service Company literally make three times what the Ford dealer pay me, the company I work for takes guys with skills like ours and puts them on the road as mobile technicians. I only have to go into the shop sometimes four parts and once a month for a safety meeting. you should look into it. I found out there's Fleet Service shops everywhere.
GOOD LUCK BRO! Steven. www.brittbikeguy2000@gmail.com
steven christy I appreciate your comment a lot. I'm school trained, but nothing beats knowing how to spot a problem. There's no school for that.
i bought a stored 2002 landcruiser prado that has less than 10000 mile it makes a pop sound when i floor it.... i think its the spark plugs... also sometimes it will not down shift when i floor it and i need to fully stop for it to go back to normal...
it has the same 3.4 5vz-fe engine and 4speed automatic a343f
Nice. I wonder why it was loose in the first place?
Decent find bub!! I got the same issue makes.complete sense.
Thank you. Let me know if you've solved the trouble with yours.
Good catch!
Thanks Dave
I have the same engine in a 4runner. When starting cold, after iac closes, when i spank throttle there is a bog before idle raises. When i start engine warm, it fires once but doesnt start, then its hard to start after this. Does this sound like a sloppy haronic ballancer gear like youve got?
Thanks for the video! Thankfully, my sprocket didn't have this wear, but thanks to you I was watching carefully when doing my own timing belt replacement. That wear looks quite unusual though. How many miles did the truck have on it? Manual or automatic?
great find! my 3.4 has developed a hesitation and this could be one of the issues.
Let me know what you've discovered
@@MeccaEl was a fouled plug
Genius bro! Cool post
RODRIGO VEGA thank you man!!
I've got a 2002 4 runner, i scanned it with the last Snapon last generation scanner and every thing is perfect apparently, but on highway I've got some like a misfiring but it's not, i mean, it feels like no power at all for a 1/100 of a second and constantly for 3 to 5 seconds till i push throttle all the way button. So I'm thinking... Could it be the same issue that you've got?
Thanks for the video!
Did that set of the CEL? If so did have any codes?
Good job. Thank you
Thank you and thanks for watching
Excellent work brotha
jrbbikerx jrbbikerx thanks man
Looks like the crank pulley bolt wasn’t tight and the crank sprocket has been slapping back and forth and had hogged the woodruff key slot out
I thought the same thing, when I saw it. That makes sense
Where are you located same problem with my tacoma seen all mechanics
Ok. Great advice.
My 93 starts but only runs for 2 seconds.
I had it running a few weeks ago but it would not go over 70 kms. Checked, maf, coil, dist, fuel pressure, timing, etc
Im lost. What next?
2000 3.4 Tacoma Prerunner, goes dead at idle. What do you think?
Could be this, or a bad crank angle sensor.
It's always tough when there are no trouble codes , good job high mileage is high mileage
After replacing cam sensor, all pulleys, belt, and tensioner. I made sure all timing is correct, no broken teeth on crankshaft sprocket and still getting P0340. The truck won’t start. I’ve looked everywhere online for info and tried everything...nothing Any ideas? maybe replace crankshaft sensor but the code isn’t reading that issue. 2000 4runner
How's the 4Runners battery and starter?
@@MeccaEl battery is shot and semi new starter. But I’ve been connecting it to another car when starting it up...I’m jumping it at the time of crank
This guy didn't even know if it was a 3.4 or 3.6 liter engine. Kind of hard to miss that, when it said 3400 on the timing belt cover. There are so many different reasons for sluggish throttle or hesitation; man you cost this customer a lot of money in diagnostics. I had sluggish throttle and hesitation, and when spark plugs, new coils, and plug wires didn't work, I replaced the MAF sensor with an aftermarket one and the problem was fixed. Cost me $37 for an aftermarket one on Amazon, so I bought a second one in case that one failed.
Tim Nelson Nice!! Check out part 2 to this series, let me know what you think. Appreciate you man.
besides being worn out, why does the gear/cog in the crank move. It would have been nice to see what was locking it in place after you pulled it out a bit and turned it.
Great job diagnosing it. That thing will cause all sorts of problems and readings
Travis k thanks. I'm almost done editing the "fix" video, and you'll see that the keyway that held the cog in place at the worn spot.
Still hoping to see that "fix video." Would love to see the follow-up to your investigation as I think I've got the same issue with my 98 Tacoma. Thanks!
I think one reason for the cog keyway and woodruff key becoming worn is the crankshaft pulley bolt not being torqued to spec. and it works loose.
The spec is 217 ft/lbs for the first generation 3.4 v6 tacoma pulley bolt, I used a new bolt from Toyota that has thread locking compound pre-applied, if I were to re-use the old bolt I would use blue loc-tite on it, but it's a $10 part so I use a new one.
Saving the god damn day here!
You're welcome, and thanks for watching 😁
I'm thinking about buying a Toyota Highlander 2003, 131,000 miles or a RAV4 I see all these videos and are they really Reliable?
I would say yes, and that they're worth the investment.
I've got the exact same truck I've got spark and fuel but still won't run. Could it be a bad timing belt?
How are your compression numbers, for each cylinder? You might have your cam to crankshaft timing out of phase.
I'm not sure honestly. The truck ran perfectly fine, we parked it because we got a new truck. Just one day out of nowhere it wouldn't start. We put a new battery and cables new ignition igniter, new crankshaft sensor. We plugged in my dad's autel and had not active fault codes. We're lost here. Thanks for your reply. We really appreciate it
Hmmm, yes that is strange. I would start checking some ground wires, and any exposed wiring under the hood. Rodents or a bird may have harvested some parts off of the truck, to eat or build a nest with. If you can pull the bezel off of the center console where the radio is mounted, check behind there.
@@MeccaEl I will check on that. Thank you I appreciate your reply. I subscribed to your channel.
@meccatronics what are the exact symptoms for this? Currently own a 04 tundra same motor and my acceleration is sluggish