3.4L V6 5vz-fe Timing Belt and Water Pump Ep 4
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- Опубліковано 30 гру 2011
- Follow me on Instagram for truck updates. @safetydang
Please read the FSM for all torque specs.
In this video we change my timing belt and water pump in my 2002 Toyota Tacoma. This engine is the 5vz-fe 3.4L V6. Note check your cam seals and other seals that may need to be changed. Also if you know how to loosen the tensioner you can change them if they are bad.
SST can be made or bought. Here is the thread on the topic:
www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-...
www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/...
Also snap-on tensioner tool can snap your lower pulley timing belt tensioner. So take the time to remove your ac pump and the other bracket.
ALSO if you have red Toyota coolant continue to use RED Toyota coolant. You can only go back to red coolant if you flush the radiator. - Авто та транспорт
Watching all these videos on replacing the timing belt and water pump assures me I made the right decision to pay someone else to do it. : )
SafetyDang--you're the man. I just changed my timing belt, water pump, tensioners, thermostat, and belts on my 2001 Taco for my first time! The last belt change was done by a garage from the previous owner. The belt was not in sync or lined up correctly. The power was low and sounded like the valves were tapping. Now, it runs awesome. For those thinking about this doing this work, I used genuine Toyota parts. Watch the video several times--it's right on. The Toyota timing belt has arrows for lining up the cam and crankshafts. Just know the timing belt will shift a couple of teeth when you rotate the engine a couple of times. You can see the timing belt shift in the video. Don't stress if this happens. Just make sure the cams and crank shafts are ALL lined up after cycling through it. As mentioned in the video, the crankshaft washer is slightly curved and should face outward away from the timing belt. BIG thank you to SafetyDang for making this video.
Me and my brother changed the timing belt on my 1999 3.4L 4runner at 150k miles several years ago. I'm approaching 300k miles so I'm overdue for another timing belt change. I will be replacing valve cover gaskets and front oil seal also. Thanks for refreshing my memory with a good video.
Thanks!
Dexter Christian 150k on a timing belt? lol. That is one awesome belt. Toyota recommends the timing belt on the 1st gen to be changed at 60k. The newer models at 90k.
Im at 120k on the belt. I am doing that change soon as it looks like mine broke. Gonna be pulling the belt cover off tonight to confirm.
Nice relaxed video. "Don't Panic or freak out" is a good thing to keep in mind when things don't go picture perfectly right away. ALSO... Factory torque specs for the main Damper pulley bolt is 250 lbs ft/lbs. Your engine sounds great. Many more miles to go. Toyota manual likes it if we replace the Damper/pulley bolt with a brand new one. Makes some sense if you consider that, properly cared for, this job may be done at least 3 or 4 more times. We do not want to mess up those threads for sure. Thanks for doing this video.
This is one of the better videos I've seen. You actually explain and show everything you are doing. Thanks for this. It will be super helpful in the near future. I have 310k miles right now and we haven't done the pump and belt since 210k. (the first time we did it)
Used your video as my number one source for doing this job on my 2002 4Runner. The Hayes manual I had was worthless. Thanks guys. Job completed successfully.
Thank you! I know my video is still missing a lot of information. And some people would do other steps differently. However, making this video took a lot of time and I appreciate all the positive comments.
I am going to do this on my 96 Toyota t100 with 270 000 miles. local shops want $$ 650-850$$, you guy's gives me the confidence to do it myself, thanks a million!!
Sorry, Google changed notifications for some reason. You are very welcome. Good luck and take your time.
Great video! Did my timing belt and water pump this weekend. I made a crankshaft pulley holder but it broke the harmonic balancer off from the inside of the crankshaft pulley. My bolts didn't go all the way through the pulley. So I tapped the existing metric holes for 5/16-18. Threaded the bolts all the way through and it worked perfect. Just wanted to point that out.
Oh Dang that sucks! Glad it all worked out for you though!
Nice Job on the project and the video! I agree with mkrp4. Very methodical and organized. I hate learning from people that jump all over the place. I don't post comments on here often but was extremely impressed with you guys.
+hamstersampson Thank you.
Quick tip for a slightly easier way to remove the radiator: instead of removing the 4 front facing bolts that hold mount the radiator to the frame (can be difficult to access with grill / bumper) you can also just unbolt the radiator from its sub-frame mount.
To do this, just remove 4 bolts on each corner of the radiator sub-frame. They are much easier to access, and face towards the sides of the car. One of them can be seen at 2:33. Pull these 4 bolts, and the radiator will slide right out!
Great video. Thanks for the tip on the turn the crank a little to line the marks on the belt up with the dot. I tried and tried until I came across this. Thank man. Keep turning the wrenches and showing us how it’s done. Great video.
Factor in the tensioner. My older mechanic cousin taught me this. As long as the lines on the OEM belt line up you should be good. Remember there is slack in the belt. When you release the tensioner all the slack is removed. Go to 8:46 should help .
Dude YOU ROCK. Very easy job. Thank You. saved me 900.00 in labor. Took me 4 hrs. the 700 lb. impact wrench worked on the crank bolt. Took 2 seconds
Excellent video!!!! Thanks for actually showing the work and not an "after" video. I will definitely use this video when it comes to the taco! Great job!
I did mine without pulling the radiator, but I have a manual transmission. Did not have a tool for the crankshaft bolt, so to get it off I just set my breaker bar against the frame and bumped the starter. The bolt loosened right up. To reinstall I had to use two small chains bolted into the pully and wrapped around the frame, one pulling from the top and one from the bottom. That prevented the pully from moving so I was able to apply correct torque. Worked perfectly.
Dont freak out if you rotate the engine after installing the belt and see the white line has moved from the mark on the cams, like in the video. Mine did that and I almost lost it till I realized that is normal.
Thank you
I'm very happy I was able to help you.
Thank you for this video. I replaced the timing belt, water pump, radiator, hoses, belts, and fan clutch following this video. I just rolled 209,000 miles on my 1999 4Runner Limitied.
You're very welcome
Glad to see that the power steering doesn't have to be completely removed. The A/C looks like a pain, though. I guess I need to get that tool.
I watched your video then changed out my timing belt and water pump today. Thanks for all the great tips. It made the job a lot more hassle-free.
Your very welcome.
You are welcome
Awesome video. I've done this job twice and fumbled through it each time.
The intake tube cleaned up my engine bay. It also changed the sound of my motor, other than that it has been on so long I don't even notice.
Thanks a million for this! I just did this job today with a buddy and it went super smooth thanks to your video! I did end up buying that Schley pulley holder tool which made taking the main crank pulley off a non issue, as well as putting it back on. I'm definitely not a fan of that dang AC bracket though.
I also think whoever changed the belt before me (If it was changed?) installed the Timing Belt guide backwards, cupped side towards the engine. It looked like it did scrape up the belt or something. I have 205,000 miles on the taco, but no idea when the belt was ever changed. Good to go now!
Awesome. Had to come back the next morning because we couldn't find/fabricate the damn crankshaft bolt remover but... We did it. Used this video as reference the whole time too - I have a 2000 4runner that needed this exact fix - same engine and all. Thanks for the upload!
The trick we used to get the thing off - We cut the timing belt, wrapped it around the center pully and used a few vice grips on it. When we went to pull the crankshaft bolt - didn't even budge.
Great video. Watched it several times before attempting to change my belt and pump etc. Definitely worth the watch. Felt like I had already done it. My only tip is unbolt the power steering pump and set it to the side to get to the AC bracket. Made my life much easier after trying for 2 hours to get it off w/o removing PS pump. Once removed only took 10 minutes to get bracket off. Anyways.., thanks SafteyDang!!
Good job guys! Here's a Tip: You don't have to remove the A/C Compressor/Bracket if you have this tool. (Schley SCH97300 Toyota Timing Belt Tensioner Compressor) You can get it on Amazon for around $30 shipped. It'll save you time if you're not going to replace the tensioner. :)
Yep, good tip. If I had it to do again I'd do it this way. Saves about 3 hours by using the special tool.
@Andrew K
Or you can use 1/4" ratchet with long extension to get to the tensioner bolts without removing the compressor and bracket--takes 5 minutes. You do have to loosen the plastic bracket at the bottom front of the engine even with the top of the oil pan(2 small machine screws) so you can access the rear tensioner bolt
SafetyDang... thanks for the great vid... It is helping me do my job! True.. the worst part is getting the PITA bolt off (Hydraulic tensioner). I've just re-installed the Aircon pump and the rest should be a piece of cake.
Thanks for the vid...
Cheers,
Doug. (Australia)
Thank you
Thanks for your courteous response. We all learn from each other and if it helps doing the work better and safer, then it is all good.
Thumbs up video. Note the purpose of the removable section of the fan shroud is so you can remove and install the radiator with the shroud bolted to it. The lower piece easily clips in from the bottom once the radiator is mounted to the core support. Also, removal of the (PITA) AC compressor and bracket can be eliminated by using a screw jack special tool to compress the tensioner with the AC junk in place. (Schley Products SP97300)
A crank holding tool is also a worthwhile purchase. (Schley Products SL64400)
Search Ebay for the best prices on the special tools.
Tater PS Thank you! Tool noted on the description already. Using the tool has a risk of breaking the pulley though.
It is virtually impossible to break the tensioner pulley or the water pump pulley if you stop cranking on the tool when the capture pin hole aligns with the hole in the tensioner piston. I understand some folks may have more time than cash and it is good that there is an alternative way of compressing the tensioner, albeit, more difficult and time consuming. I have changed more 3.4l timing belts and water pumps than I can count, all using an in situ compression tool and have never damaged a pulley or pump.. Some wrongly believe that a tensioner compression tool exerts enormous force on the pulleys, when in fact, there is only slightly more force than what the tensioner is already exerting on the timing belt and thereby back at the pulleys. Anyway, just tossing my two cents into the Internet knowledge gumbo. Sometimes that is not a good thing. LOL. Keep up the good work.
Tater PS Unlikely to happen but can happen. Yes I agree cheaper alternative methods are always welcome.
Easy to follow, avoided mistakes and saved time.THANKS!
Thanks for the video. I did this and timing belt/water pump in the same weekend and everything went well.
Thanks for the video! Very helpful. In the process of changing head gaskets, timing and water-pump.
This video helped alot. I just bought a 94 4runner with the 3.0. Still have to get off the bracket connecting the power steering to the water pump and a few pulleys.
+volcom137z I got one too... You can get there...
+Doug Fairweather yeah got even just off now just waiting on parts T Ordered a timing belt kit for $140 shipped. Comes with everything .
Just got done doing mine. I was able to leave my AC/AC mount, I just used a long swivel extension to get to the tensioner to remove it. Installing the tensioner was just as easy. I used a vice to compress the tensioner then inserted a 1.5mm allen before installing.
What a great video! I just got a 4Runner yesterday and your video makes this less intimidating. Thanks!!!
You are welcome
Thank you for the video. I just finished my 1996 4runner with your help. I would like to ad one thing though. make sure bottom line for crank shaft is opposite of top mark on crank shaft. As I unfortunately learned .
you're very welcome
Great job explaining this timing belt, it looks a bit difficult but doable if you follow SD's instructions.
Thank you for taking the time to do this video. You are helping a lot of people.
Sorry, Google changed notifications for some reason. You are very welcome.
Im replacing mine right now and this video is a great reference ! Thanks for going out of your way ! I laugh every time I hear that guy grunt trying to get the crank shaft bolt out ! LMAO :-)
No problem! Glad I'm able to help other owners out there with there engine work.
I really like this video! Thanks for being very thorough!!!
As a professional youtube video viewer, i can say with out a doubt that this is a great video. Thanks for making it.
Very nice video. Thanks for your time.
If I may be permitted I would like to add;
1) a torque wrench should NEVER be used as a breaker bar. Only for TORQUING of the fasteners. 2) A 1.50” tip of a machinist scratch awl bent 90 degrees (or buying a one made as such) can be a great tool to get under rubber hose and between the hose and the neck to break the seal and make removal much easier. 3) The battery should be disconnected also to prevent any possibility of cranking the engine by mistake.
Best video on the topic!!
You guys should be teaching Automotive technology! I am serious!!
My bother is working towards it. I just know how to make videos. :)
Thanks a lot for your video, it helps me a lot putting my 4runner back to run.
Good job guys, excellent video, thank you for making this video. If you could add a short video on working with the timing belt tensioner, that would be fantastic. I haven't worked on this Tacoma previously. I bought it new in 2001 and had all the scheduled mainenance and repairs done at the local Toyota delaership. Big mistake! They do the work, but they don't go out of their way to clean up after themselves and use some degreaser. I've had 3 scheculed timing belt/water pump replacements done at the dealership, but the last timing belt change resulted in an issue at 20,000 miles into the new timing belt. My truck overheated because of a leaking water pump at the water pump gasket due to poor work habits by the toyota technician, He did not clean the engine block where the water pump bolts in. I spent the next several hours removing old gasket materails left behind by prevoius toyota techs who simply didn't notice, didn't care, I don't know. They also did not take the time to clean away some of the grease buildup. This truck timing belt/water pump area was absolutely caked in a petroleum residue, not good! I'm good in all areas of this except what to do to replace the timing belt tensioner. Will keep looking, thanks for you videos, you guys rock!
Thanks for watching MIchael. The main issue with making these videos is that the truck never needs service that often. :D A toyota problem I guess. If I ever get a chance I will try to make the video.
Is this the best instructional video ever???
Matt Wagner simply put. no there’s more instructional
All except using torque wrench to break bolts loose!
Oh wow! Very nicely detailed information. I still wouldn’t try it. I know I’m gonna mess up at one point. Thanks
I appreciate the simple details and to the point.
great video. can't believe how involved this process is!
Sorry for the late reply, Thank you!
You just saved me $600 bucks. Thank you.
You're welcome
Fantastic video, thank you for documenting in such great detail. Going to be tackling this soon.
Sorry Google changed notifications for some reason. Thanks for your comment.
Convenience. Just changed timing belt on my 2001 Tacoma 3.4L for the second time and didn't remove radiator either time. Good idea to cut piece or cardboard or similar and place over inside of radiator for protection, though.
Great video! One thing to add that I ran into is the possibility of the crank pulley not just coming off after the bolt is removed. I ended up having to use a 3 arm puller almost all the way. Looks like coolant or something got in there and dried up causing it to bind. Anyhow I would suggest that someone doing this have a proper crank pulley puller on hand before starting this. A 3 arm puller does work, but just be very careful not to damage the belt grooves.
I got it apart ...now, to get it back together! :O Thanks for the assist!
Nice video. For the tbelt tensioner closest to the engine, use a 1/4 extension connected to a universal connected to a short 12mm. You can definitely sneak your way around the annoying bracket. I am actually doing that right now and was using this video as a guide. That'll save at least 30 min
I''ll pin your comment @Yuepeng. Lots of great tips for this video from many viewers. Should I do a follow up video?
This guy is awesome!
Did you try it in 3/8th? Or should i just go buy a 1/4 set?
3/8th will not work. I did try it because i felt like I was going to break my 1/4 set lol Luckily owning a high quality snap-on set actually comes in handy now and then :)
Thanks for the tip and the quick responds!
This is video is perfect ! The only thing I would change is the screen shot and title for searching . It took me watching three time wasting videos to get here .
great video ! air compressor bracket was the toughest part ,maybe enhance this on your instruction ,for people wondering the special tool that holds the flywheel ,the spacing on the bolts that go into the balancer were spaced at 2-7/8" on center and I used 5/16 x 2-1/2" grade 8 bolts drilled through and welded to 1/2" x 3" x 18" and with a torch I burned a hole for the socket . ratchet wrenches are a must ! thanks again SafetyDang
Thank you, this helped me understand the details of the job well.
Great vid. Simple and everything I needed to see.
Thanks!!!
I just changed my timing belt after 17 years of used. My old timing belt still look good. I love Toyota products. For those of you the Toyota owner don't forget to pick up original Toyota Part. I am a living proof.
Not using the red coolant? Good video, I was thinking about having someone do mine but I may try it myself after seeing this. Thanks
Like how you did the video step by step and what to look for not just filming after differant stages
Good video man, have yet to do this in the truck, on my 01 when swapping a used engine into it i was able to do this in about 2 hours, but it was hanging on a chain and everything was easy access for impact ratchets. Gonna do it again soon on one in the rig so i cant wait to see how long that takes
Wow! What a great video! I have been trying to find an in depth video for my install. I am pretty sure i will use this video as a guide. Way to go dang.
Hey Thanks for the reply. The truck Toyota T100 DX 1995 3.4 Liter / V6 / 5VZFE was running good when the water pump started leaking. I decided to replace the water pump & timing belt along with the front main seal, fan belts, Hydraulic Tensioner, timing belt, Tensioner Roller. It all went very hard as it was my first time. Needless to say the engine would not start. It would chug for a minute and the engine light came on. I dis assembled the the covers on the timing belt and all the marks are lined up (both cams TDC, camshaft gear mark lined up with the water pump, and the crankshaft pulley mark on 0. So I replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor 19300-62010 and put it all back together. It will only chug for a minute and just grind. Wait about 15 minutes and it will do the same thing. I checked the fuel filter on the engine side and it is getting fuel through the filter. I also smelled the exhaust pipe after its done chugging and it smells like fuel. Now I noticed that the crankshaft gear is smaller than the camshaft gears? In my strugel to remove the crankshaft bolt I know I turned the crank shaft a few turns more than the camshafts. My questions is as long as all the marks line up shouldn't I be good on the timing? Any help or guidance you could give me would be much appreciated.
Your timing was set wrong,
See my reply to Sam Sores above. Sorry it wouldn't let me copy and paste it here. Basically make sure #1 piston is coming up on compression stroke and when it is at the top of its travel on compression stroke all timing Mark's should line up. If not, then your timing will be off. Possibly 180 out.
thanks for the great video. my son and i will be doing this in 2 weeks. thanks again
Thanks "dude" I'm glad my video could help!
@modestmoose83 Hm... Between work and school 2 weeks. Keep in mind I had to record everything. If you have 2 people who know what they are doing around 5 hours is correct.
Awesome video thanks for sharing...
when u drain the coolant how many gallons did u use? two or more
Great Video! Thanks for your efforts in putting this together. Specs on the socket/tool sizes used would help more.
What should I charge for labor time on this job?
I would not be as fast as Mr dang so add on a couple more hours to whatever time it takes him to do it.
I want a realistic time for a experienced but doesn't do this job every day type mechanic, not just the Factory book time which would probably be way fewer hours than I would take. Thanks for any help
I'm an experienced mechanic but I don't do these everyday so it would be somewhere between the slowest and the fastest time for me to do it. Mr. Dang is very quick and knows exactly which tools and what he's doing through the entire job.
Very impressed with this video
Thanks for any help.
Great video showing everything. Thanks for taking the time!
thank you! hope it helped
thanks for the video helped alot on my 02 prerunner
Thanks so much! I'm only @ 77K on my '02, But I have been thinking about doing the timing belt/water pump a little early, just to be on the safe side.
Great job on this video SafetyDang! Keep it up.
Thank you!
great vid - my valve seals are leaking oil and I'm looking at pulling the heads for a complete valve job at a machine shop. If I'm not mistaken, I would do everything you've done here but obviously continue on with actually pulling the heads off right? Of course the exhaust and intake systems would be removed too, but I would also be replacing my timing belt and water pump as part of the job.
One of the best informative videos I've seen. Sorry for the noob question, but why are the belt lines off when your turned the pulley to adjust the belt?
Best video on youtube! Watching it repeatedly before doing my timing belt job made me feel like I had done it many times before when I was actually doing it!
Noticed you have the deckplate and the airaid modular intake. I did the deckplate a while back and love the difference it makes. Have been thinking about the intake tube but have read that they aren't really worth it. How do you like it? Can you convince me to get one?
Thanks! I'll see if I can change that.. I'll also change them in the new ones.
Great video! 3:13 and 3:22 is me all day everyday in my home garage. 😀 what brand ratcheting wrench are you using? Good experience with them?
I have a 95 t100 with 3.4 l and am going to be replacing timing belt but the parts guy needs to know if my water pump is one with a bypass option on it ? any idea on if i need one with a bypass ?
I'll be following these instructions tomorrow! Thanks!
How did it go?
Once installed how many turns of the crank shaft do you have to turn to get the lines to match up on the belt and top dead marks ?
Thanks Dang for the video, why not continue using Toyota brand antifreeze. I was told mixing it or using other brands will cause corrosion in block. I know other antifreezes say they can be mixed
Hey dang, I'm doing this job but crankshaft does not align with t belt mark. Should I rotate till aligned?
Thank you for the video. I just to replace my timing belt and water pump and belts on my 4runner 5vz-fe 3.4L V6. what kind of tools do I need and what happen when you timing belt is not line up? help please do this on my own.
Welded some light tabs on the bumper. I need to do the same for my Trail Gear bumper now. :)
Hi,
I need help to correct a mistake:(
After I replaced the timing belt (all the marks matching the correct positions) I went to rotate it to check if the marks would be back at the correct positions after a 360 degrees rotation. Since the tensioner was not in place yet and I was doing the rotation through the Left Camshaft I got the Crankshaft Timing Pulley skipping a tooth or two of the timing belt so that when the camshafts were at zero the crankshaft was to the left of zero position. What I did after is to remove the timing belt and to slightly rotate the crankshaft to get it back to zero position; after that I installed back the timing belt, rotated it again and everything was coming back to zero position after several rotations.
The problem now is that, when I drive the truck, it feels with less power making this typical noise (specially on the 2nd gear) as when you don't synchronize the clutch properly after changing gears (something like clak clak clak ...); I got a manual transmission SR5V 5VZFE engine.
I can see that I will have to redo the job but I don't know how to fix this problem. Any advices?
Correct its an easy job. Just make sure to take your time and remember every little thing.
Wow. Great video.
It's about time for this update on my 1999 4-Runner.
I think I can do it myself......wait, is it possible to be a one person job?
Nice job! Will follow it again doing mine Prado 1998 at 300000KM
Please send pictures of your Prado to my email Steve!
I need to tighten the 3rd belt you took off. Not the Alternator or fan belt. But the "Middle" one. Can I just tighten the tensioner or do I have to loosen that pully as well like you did?
I want to change the time belt but the pulleys are incorrect. The bottom one is on the point and the others above mark at 3pm that I can do thanks
Hello I wanna ask i have a prado 5vz 2002 hardly driven e
35k miles but when I start it the engine sounds like a jet but when I drive it
It doesn't sound anything like a v6. And do you think I need to check the suspension its a tz whit sport and comfort suspension
When I drive the car it runs smoothly but the feel is like just a normal car
Great video guys. Does the radiator have to come out or was that out of convenience?
Buenas noches amigo, tengo un problema con el encendido de mi motor, resulta que tube que bajar las camaras porque le cayo el carbon que se crea y me tranco el motor aproveche de cambiar correa de tiempo pero ahora no se mantiene en el minimo y se apaga... que crees que pudiera ser..! Tambien los escapes despues de la salida del manifor se pone al rojo vivo... que podria ser..!!
best video I field capable to do the timing belt myself!! Thanks guys
thank you
Sorry I have two accounts
Really nice vid...thx for posting.
+John Tyler Thank you!
Excellent video.. The only suggestion is to review the coolant requirement since you used prestone green.. The truck looks newer in video and Toyota recommends the red or pink coolant. I personally use Zerex G-05 for all cars I own with no issues
This video was extremely helpful. Thanks!