Hands down, , best instructional video on UA-cam that has ever been created, regardless of the subject matter. Thank you buddy, thank you for helping me plan out my next trip to Home Depot
I built mine this afternoon. My total was more like 70. Granted prices have changed since this video was made, but I also opted for 2"x2"s instead of the 1"x2"s. Also picked up some Liquid Nail to add to the ends and on top of the cross bars. Worked out great though.. thanks to this 'how to' video!
Awesome. Thanks for update on price and suggestions. It’s amazing how much more things cost these days. Hope your highflying fun and replacement parts budget doesn’t destroy your pocketbook :-) That’s the real rub and cost impact of building a ramp. I will note I split my first one by two this winter. I was jumping in wet snow, which was a contributing factor as the ramp was soaked. Although it’s the first one I’ve split in years of using this ramp, the 2x2 are good insurance if extra weight doesn’t bother you. Happy jumping.
Best tutorial on how to find angle on UA-cam thank you. 6:50 that 45°angle looked perfect so thats what i did. Made 45° angle block put it in corner of rectangle plywood with clamp and then used my really thin plywood stapled to block then bent to find angle and length of ramp while remembering to leave a little extra of wood sticking out past tip so it could get closer to ground. Ramp turned out about a foot tall(as tall as my scrap wood would allow) and its perfect for my 1:12 scale wltoys 124017's and 124019's. I ran 2 strips of grip tape across so tires get a bit of extra grip right at launch as well...one right at top lip and one down about 8". Because i made mine smaller i got away with 1 cross support at the lip and 1 2x4 in the middle on the bottom. It turned out ultra light pinky finger can lift it. Also a friend with larger heavier truggy a 1:10 vkar bison hit it a buch and it survived.
Great little tutorial for an easy build. My 11yr old son wants to build one for his Traxxas Sledge, and this will be perfect. Thanks for putting this video together.
@@rust1eronblitzrussia542 he is definitely a lucky kid. I wish I had what he does at my age. All we had was sticks we would try to set on fire in the woods.
Thanks for the build design. Worked perfectly and is so light and strong. I built it today in a few hours (07-22-23). The longest part was getting the glue on and letting it dry overnight. You were spot on as far as the cost goes. My build cost me $45.68 from HD. I did have a few 1"x2" strips around so that helped. All-in -all, fantastic design. I always thought I would need thicker and heavier wood but you really don't. Small enough to easily transport in my truck bed. I made the ramp size 3'x3'x1.5'. Thanks again and have a good day.
Thanks Judda. I don’t really promote much (at all) and just do the channel for fun and to share with my daughter who does some editing and filming with me, so we aren’t in it to build a huge channel. just do it to have fun, share a cool hobby, and hopefully help some folks out with some info here and there.
Textbook ramp build mate, you can't go wrong with a ramp like that. Totally agree it's beneficial to have a regular launch when you're 1st learning. Great stuff mate 👍🏻
I just used this plan to build one for myself. Hit it with a Traxxas Stampede and a Maxx for about 30 minutes. The main surface is already damn near destroyed from the Maxx body. Easy enough fix though, just needs significantly more horizontal 1x2s for support. I had about 3" between each and the middle portion is destroyed. Gonna basically have the 1x2s touching each other when I add more tomorrow. Particle board is nice and flexible, but definitely needs additional support.
Is your suspension set correctly? Sounds like the truck is bottoming out and smashing into the ramp. That or maybe the front guard is crashing into it? I go at least three years without replacing my surface.
You indicate width of 3-4’. Can you translate relative to the size of any particular car (1:8, 1:12, 1:18 etc)? Like 3x width of your truck, or whatever? Also, how about length of ramp relative to size of truck? At least 2 or 3x length of vehicle? Awesome job!
Just what I was looking for! Wanna build some ramps since the "premade" stuff is ridiculously priced. I'm sure prices are up, but still probably the cheapest and most efficient ramp build on a budget. Thanks! 👍
Just got back from Home Depot. Adjusted for inflation, I spent $65, but I'll have plenty of screws (I went with #10 x 1") and one 4 x 4 sheet left over for another build. I couldn't find any 4 x 4 panels, so got an 8 footer and cut it in half. I picked up a 1/2" x 5' piece of pex pipe to use to create the angle line for the ramp cuts🤙
Great breakdown! I had planned on using 1/2 inch ply for the sides but now im thinking I should go thinner.. Also I was going to add some wood glue along the seams under neath.
Nothing wrong with 1/2” concept…just heavy. Might depend on what scale cars you jump and how much you abuse the ramp in transport but you can almost definitely reduce that by half. The glue can’t hurt for sure. Let ‘em’ fly!!!!
@@brettbabineaux3545 I used/own a 36” metal ruler with cork on the back that works great. I’ve also used a 1/4” x 48” square wooden dowel or some plastic door trim pieces I have laying around. My neighbor used some left over floor base…really anything that has just enough strength to stay straight under its own weight but will flex when you push it into the curve.
Lots of options. Price point and how much wrenching you like to do factors in. I think the Arrma 3s line is very good, the vortex or big rock being good options. The losi tenacity db pro is just a great all around truck and one of my favorites. Arrma Kratons are excellent, especially the EXB which is just tough as heck. The new traxxis sledge is quite good. Corrally skeeter is just a tank and great deal but little harder to source parts.
Not well. Definitely not a permanent outdoor ramp. I run cars in the snow a lot so the ramp gets wet a lot and that surface board starts to warp, and wear down and disintegrate quickly when wet. If you left it out permanently it would really fall apart quick. If you run cars on it while wet a lot like I do you’ll need to replace the top surface about every 3-4years. I’ve doubled up that top surface on mine now just due to how many winter days I soak that surface completely through with wet snow.
What length screws did you use if you remember? I used the same width materials as you, I have a bunch of 3/4 inch that will work but debating on using 1in long screws.
great instructional video! question here. what is the most economical tool I can use to cut the large triangle side wall of the ramp? I only have a miter saw right now and I know think that's gonna cut it. haha
I think a jig saw is the best and not too expensive. Depending on where you are. Here in states one can get a black and decker jig saw for $35. Absolute cheapest would be box knife. That luan board can be scored with a box knife, maybe even cut through. Dremel would work even. The advantage of luan is its pretty easy to cut through.
I would definitely say you can use it for that. Might be a little oversized but that never hurts anything. This one Can definitely be used for up to 1/8th scale so 1/16th no problem. I’ve been grinding on this ramp with only one resurface for 7 years now. Mostly i jump a 1/8th scale kraton exb or 1/10th scale Arrma, losi, team associated vehicles.
Yeah you went big. Good for you. Those are awesome rigs. Jumping cars is definitely a pocket book drain and with the dbxl that would be even more painful.
Why not find some old pallets behind harbor freight or some other big box store that'll give them away to make ur supports underneath the ramp and if they are too big use a saw and rip them down smaller and luon for the sides that's a bit on the flimsy side especially using for a 50 plus pound kraton 1/4 plywood or 1/2 for the sides to make it strong enough to hold that heavy ass car cause if ur car falls through the middle of it the ramp uve just built is sort of useless and a piece of 1/2 or 1/4 pvc pipe at 8 foot long makes for an easy way to get ur side panels and it bends easy peezy or a piece of pex pipe but pvc works better
I’ll just assume you used every M2C type mod out there and are talking 1/5 8s if your Kraton weighs more than 50lbs!!! Even then….may want to check ur scale. I’ll say this….This ramp is in no way capable of supporting a 50+ pound car. Never said it was.
No way I'd waste money on 1x2s but if you do u better predrill ur holes cause if not ur going to be using that wood in your fire pit cause ull split every last one that you don't predrill the hole in so good concept but u left out several important details to making a good ramp and one that's going to support the weight ur using it for. An overbuilt ramp is far better than one that is going to cave in with a heavy car like a kraton lol
Overbuilt, as you put it, will never hurt you. One can overbuild as much as one likes and feels comfortable with and I’ll never say some extra beef is bad. If I never had to carry this around I’d add some beef just for insurance. but doing so will make it heavier and it will cost more. It’s just a trade off for each persons needs. If you want some extra strength go for it. I valued lighter weight and more portability over extreme durability, especially since this is plenty strong for me. This wasn’t some untested concept on paper I showed. It’s a ramp I’ve used for years. Perhaps you missed the part where I mentioned the age of this ramp and the fact I run a 6s Kraton EXB off it continuously. For my use, It will not fall through, it will not collapse. It’s common physics at work here. 3/4 plywood is used as the web in TJI joists in ur home to support the entire floor….you shouldnt need that much strength to support a 15 pound rc. I do note specifically all this is untested for 8s and that may end up pushing this construction too far. I can’t speak to that so if you are referring to 8s I can see the need to add beefier materials. As for the 1x2 and predrill, again, predrill can’t hurt and a good suggestion but isn’t a must. I Didn’t predrill mine and note that none split…as you can see. You have to use some common sense and select appropriate size screws. A fatty, course thread will split them for sure.
You actually did split one if you look at 2:35 you can see it.Always a good idea to predrill.One screw in the cross braces is better if using the small pieces of wood.The skin of the ramp will keep them from rotating.Also you want the last part or upper part of the ramp to be a straight angle at least the length of the cars or trucks you will be jumping .This allows the load on the shocks to release and not cause the pre loaded shocks to make the car/truck unstable just before it launches..
Good lord thats insane. Inflation is out of control but for such basic building materials thats almost unimaginable. Im glad the ramp lasts a long time cause i certainly wouldn’t build another at those costs
@JesseBlum Man that's crazy talk. A 3/8" 4'×8' mdf board for sides cost like $25 (you need 1 - 4'×8') , the 1x2s are $2 for cheap furring boards(maybe buy 10 and go overboard on supports, so $20), and the Luan board is about $35. With a box of 1 inch screws, you're at like $85-$95 tops out the door. Yes its impossible to buy and build with these matetials for $45, but $200 is way off. Btw I just priced all of this at home depot and I live in Commufornia, where everything costs more, sales tax rates are criminal, and freedom aint free.
Hands down, , best instructional video on UA-cam that has ever been created, regardless of the subject matter. Thank you buddy, thank you for helping me plan out my next trip to Home Depot
Wow, glad you enjoyed it. Happy jumping!!!
I built mine this afternoon. My total was more like 70. Granted prices have changed since this video was made, but I also opted for 2"x2"s instead of the 1"x2"s. Also picked up some Liquid Nail to add to the ends and on top of the cross bars. Worked out great though.. thanks to this 'how to' video!
Awesome. Thanks for update on price and suggestions. It’s amazing how much more things cost these days. Hope your highflying fun and replacement parts budget doesn’t destroy your pocketbook :-) That’s the real rub and cost impact of building a ramp. I will note I split my first one by two this winter. I was jumping in wet snow, which was a contributing factor as the ramp was soaked. Although it’s the first one I’ve split in years of using this ramp, the 2x2 are good insurance if extra weight doesn’t bother you. Happy jumping.
Great video and great response to the critics.
Thanks!
Best tutorial on how to find angle on UA-cam thank you.
6:50 that 45°angle looked perfect so thats what i did. Made 45° angle block put it in corner of rectangle plywood with clamp and then used my really thin plywood stapled to block then bent to find angle and length of ramp while remembering to leave a little extra of wood sticking out past tip so it could get closer to ground. Ramp turned out about a foot tall(as tall as my scrap wood would allow) and its perfect for my 1:12 scale wltoys 124017's and 124019's.
I ran 2 strips of grip tape across so tires get a bit of extra grip right at launch as well...one right at top lip and one down about 8". Because i made mine smaller i got away with 1 cross support at the lip and 1 2x4 in the middle on the bottom. It turned out ultra light pinky finger can lift it. Also a friend with larger heavier truggy a 1:10 vkar bison hit it a buch and it survived.
Great little tutorial for an easy build. My 11yr old son wants to build one for his Traxxas Sledge, and this will be perfect. Thanks for putting this video together.
Dang a sledge for an 11 year old. Lucky boy
@@rust1eronblitzrussia542 he is definitely a lucky kid. I wish I had what he does at my age. All we had was sticks we would try to set on fire in the woods.
Enjoy. Hope he has fun and doesn’t run the meter on parts cause even with a durable piece of kit like the sledge, jumping is hard on the wallet!!
Thanks for the build design. Worked perfectly and is so light and strong. I built it today in a few hours (07-22-23). The longest part was getting the glue on and letting it dry overnight. You were spot on as far as the cost goes. My build cost me $45.68 from HD. I did have a few 1"x2" strips around so that helped. All-in -all, fantastic design. I always thought I would need thicker and heavier wood but you really don't. Small enough to easily transport in my truck bed. I made the ramp size 3'x3'x1.5'. Thanks again and have a good day.
Now the costs will really add up in broken car parts😂. Glad you got one built and enjoy the airtime!
Loved how you explained everything GREAT VIDEO. Thanks
Just built mine! Turned out great, thx man
Glad it helped!
Awesome video awesome editing and explains very well I’m surprised your channels not bigger than it is
Thanks Judda. I don’t really promote much (at all) and just do the channel for fun and to share with my daughter who does some editing and filming with me, so we aren’t in it to build a huge channel. just do it to have fun, share a cool hobby, and hopefully help some folks out with some info here and there.
Textbook ramp build mate, you can't go wrong with a ramp like that. Totally agree it's beneficial to have a regular launch when you're 1st learning. Great stuff mate 👍🏻
That one support in the center is keen
Great video.
I’m building one in a day or so. Going to jump my 6 and 8s trucks. Thanks for the detailed instructions.
It has been 2 years. Did you build it?
I just used this plan to build one for myself. Hit it with a Traxxas Stampede and a Maxx for about 30 minutes. The main surface is already damn near destroyed from the Maxx body. Easy enough fix though, just needs significantly more horizontal 1x2s for support. I had about 3" between each and the middle portion is destroyed. Gonna basically have the 1x2s touching each other when I add more tomorrow.
Particle board is nice and flexible, but definitely needs additional support.
Is your suspension set correctly? Sounds like the truck is bottoming out and smashing into the ramp. That or maybe the front guard is crashing into it? I go at least three years without replacing my surface.
You indicate width of 3-4’. Can you translate relative to the size of any particular car (1:8, 1:12, 1:18 etc)? Like 3x width of your truck, or whatever? Also, how about length of ramp relative to size of truck? At least 2 or 3x length of vehicle? Awesome job!
Just what I was looking for! Wanna build some ramps since the "premade" stuff is ridiculously priced. I'm sure prices are up, but still probably the cheapest and most efficient ramp build on a budget. Thanks! 👍
Just got back from Home Depot. Adjusted for inflation, I spent $65, but I'll have plenty of screws (I went with #10 x 1") and one 4 x 4 sheet left over for another build. I couldn't find any 4 x 4 panels, so got an 8 footer and cut it in half. I picked up a 1/2" x 5' piece of pex pipe to use to create the angle line for the ramp cuts🤙
Footage using my ramp that I built using your instructions. It's working great! ua-cam.com/video/oaG_4QtE78U/v-deo.html
Glad it’s working. I actually thought inflation would be even worse as some people have put this near $90 at this point.
Great video love the details it’s been a ver big help 👍
I did 35° and it was perfect for my buddies 1/16 but too steep for his 1/8 monster. But it was fun and held up to the abuse!
Awesome 👌
Great breakdown! I had planned on using 1/2 inch ply for the sides but now im thinking I should go thinner.. Also I was going to add some wood glue along the seams under neath.
Nothing wrong with 1/2” concept…just heavy. Might depend on what scale cars you jump and how much you abuse the ramp in transport but you can almost definitely reduce that by half. The glue can’t hurt for sure. Let ‘em’ fly!!!!
Pro. Ty sir
Wow...thx my Man
thanks
SUPER!!!
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
👍👍👍👍👍
What did yall use to draw the curve i cant find anything long enough
@@brettbabineaux3545 I used/own a 36” metal ruler with cork on the back that works great. I’ve also used a 1/4” x 48” square wooden dowel or some plastic door trim pieces I have laying around. My neighbor used some left over floor base…really anything that has just enough strength to stay straight under its own weight but will flex when you push it into the curve.
What is a good RC truck that's durable and will do well in dirt?
Lots of options. Price point and how much wrenching you like to do factors in. I think the Arrma 3s line is very good, the vortex or big rock being good options. The losi tenacity db pro is just a great all around truck and one of my favorites. Arrma Kratons are excellent, especially the EXB which is just tough as heck. The new traxxis sledge is quite good. Corrally skeeter is just a tank and great deal but little harder to source parts.
Team Associate Rival MT10. Replace the A ARMS to those from RPM for strength purposes and that is it. You can afford a 3S battery for great timrs.
How well would these materials hold up if the ramp was left outside all the time? Seems like that ramp surface would soak up water, no?
Not well. Definitely not a permanent outdoor ramp. I run cars in the snow a lot so the ramp gets wet a lot and that surface board starts to warp, and wear down and disintegrate quickly when wet. If you left it out permanently it would really fall apart quick. If you run cars on it while wet a lot like I do you’ll need to replace the top surface about every 3-4years. I’ve doubled up that top surface on mine now just due to how many winter days I soak that surface completely through with wet snow.
How tall is ur ramp ?
What length screws did you use if you remember? I used the same width materials as you, I have a bunch of 3/4 inch that will work but debating on using 1in long screws.
I used 1” but I recon the 3/4” will do fine.
I like the double sided ramps but they don’t have the ski slope
great instructional video! question here. what is the most economical tool I can use to cut the large triangle side wall of the ramp? I only have a miter saw right now and I know think that's gonna cut it. haha
I think a jig saw is the best and not too expensive. Depending on where you are. Here in states one can get a black and decker jig saw for $35. Absolute cheapest would be box knife. That luan board can be scored with a box knife, maybe even cut through. Dremel would work even. The advantage of luan is its pretty easy to cut through.
Is this for 1/16 scale RWD?
I would definitely say you can use it for that. Might be a little oversized but that never hurts anything. This one Can definitely be used for up to 1/8th scale so 1/16th no problem. I’ve been grinding on this ramp with only one resurface for 7 years now. Mostly i jump a 1/8th scale kraton exb or 1/10th scale Arrma, losi, team associated vehicles.
What kind of RC car is that?
Pictured on the title frame is an Arrma Kraton EXB 6s
Would 1/2" particle board work?
What part of Colorado?
Denver. I Live in the city. All the more reason to have a ramp. Not much natural terrain.
What cad software did you use bro?
A very simple modeling software called sketchup. Great little program.
I would love to jump my rc but, I only have the one and I didn't go little. I got the losi dbxl-e 2.0 and it's not an rc to learn how to jump with.
Ah just send it loo
Yeah you went big. Good for you. Those are awesome rigs. Jumping cars is definitely a pocket book drain and with the dbxl that would be even more painful.
Why not find some old pallets behind harbor freight or some other big box store that'll give them away to make ur supports underneath the ramp and if they are too big use a saw and rip them down smaller and luon for the sides that's a bit on the flimsy side especially using for a 50 plus pound kraton 1/4 plywood or 1/2 for the sides to make it strong enough to hold that heavy ass car cause if ur car falls through the middle of it the ramp uve just built is sort of useless and a piece of 1/2 or 1/4 pvc pipe at 8 foot long makes for an easy way to get ur side panels and it bends easy peezy or a piece of pex pipe but pvc works better
I’ll just assume you used every M2C type mod out there and are talking 1/5 8s if your Kraton weighs more than 50lbs!!! Even then….may want to check ur scale. I’ll say this….This ramp is in no way capable of supporting a 50+ pound car. Never said it was.
No way I'd waste money on 1x2s but if you do u better predrill ur holes cause if not ur going to be using that wood in your fire pit cause ull split every last one that you don't predrill the hole in so good concept but u left out several important details to making a good ramp and one that's going to support the weight ur using it for. An overbuilt ramp is far better than one that is going to cave in with a heavy car like a kraton lol
Overbuilt, as you put it, will never hurt you. One can overbuild as much as one likes and feels comfortable with and I’ll never say some extra beef is bad. If I never had to carry this around I’d add some beef just for insurance. but doing so will make it heavier and it will cost more. It’s just a trade off for each persons needs. If you want some extra strength go for it. I valued lighter weight and more portability over extreme durability, especially since this is plenty strong for me. This wasn’t some untested concept on paper I showed. It’s a ramp I’ve used for years. Perhaps you missed the part where I mentioned the age of this ramp and the fact I run a 6s Kraton EXB off it continuously. For my use, It will not fall through, it will not collapse. It’s common physics at work here. 3/4 plywood is used as the web in TJI joists in ur home to support the entire floor….you shouldnt need that much strength to support a 15 pound rc. I do note specifically all this is untested for 8s and that may end up pushing this construction too far. I can’t speak to that so if you are referring to 8s I can see the need to add beefier materials. As for the 1x2 and predrill, again, predrill can’t hurt and a good suggestion but isn’t a must. I Didn’t predrill mine and note that none split…as you can see. You have to use some common sense and select appropriate size screws. A fatty, course thread will split them for sure.
You actually did split one if you look at 2:35 you can see it.Always a good idea to predrill.One screw in the cross braces is better if using the small pieces of wood.The skin of the ramp will keep them from rotating.Also you want the last part or upper part of the ramp to be a straight angle at least the length of the cars or trucks you will be jumping .This allows the load on the shocks to release and not cause the pre loaded shocks to make the car/truck unstable just before it launches..
15 minutes and 50 cents to build a cardboard box into a mega ramp...
that will break in half the amount of time it took to build it, unless youre using like 1/24 scale trucks
Sadly today may 2024 this is $200 crazy
Good lord thats insane. Inflation is out of control but for such basic building materials thats almost unimaginable. Im glad the ramp lasts a long time cause i certainly wouldn’t build another at those costs
@milehighspeedrc8412 ya the cheapest plywood I can find is $48 and that's just to cheap of a wood. The one that's $75-90 would do
@JesseBlum Man that's crazy talk. A 3/8" 4'×8' mdf board for sides cost like $25 (you need 1 - 4'×8') , the 1x2s are $2 for cheap furring boards(maybe buy 10 and go overboard on supports, so $20), and the Luan board is about $35. With a box of 1 inch screws, you're at like $85-$95 tops out the door. Yes its impossible to buy and build with these matetials for $45, but $200 is way off. Btw I just priced all of this at home depot and I live in Commufornia, where everything costs more, sales tax rates are criminal, and freedom aint free.