It’s amazing that you post this video when you did; Within the last few days I had fuel related issues with my 165 John Deere with a Kawasaki FB460V engine. The engine would start and try to run only with full choke applied in which anything less than full choke - The engine absolutely would not run. I went through the normal troubleshooting procedures of replacing the fuel filter with no change in symptoms while even doing the SeaFoam carburetor flush and all. So after doing all of that, I then proceeded to change out the fuel pump and fuel pump pulse hose in addition to all the fuel hose from the carburetor backwards to the section of hose where it came from underneath the rear seat fender and ordered a new carburetor just in case. So I decided to take a long section of 1/4” fuel hose and place one end into a small fuel container of fresh gas and the other end hooked up to the input side of the fuel pump in which the engine immediately started up after the fuel hit the carburetor. The engine ran as it always did with normal throttle/choke response and positioning. I intentionally ran the engine for a long period of time to make sure that it would indeed be okay before I moved to the next step. After attempting to allow gas to free flow from the open fuel line; I tried to suction some gas from the fuel line with not much luck. I took a blow gun and pushed it into the fuel line and blew compressed air backwards through the fuel tank with the fuel cap removed with 3 to 4 blasts of compressed air. After I removed the blow gun, I had good fuel flow and once putting the fuel hose back like it belongs - The engine ran as it did with the test fuel tank. The fuel tank looked clean inside and I am not sure exactly what the actual obstruction was to be quite honest. The section of fuel hose had been replaced about 4 years ago and I was very careful in routing the fuel hose where it would not be kinked or pinched in any way. So, I learned the trick of back flowing the fuel line into the fuel tank from growing up on a farm when the fuel tanks on the old tractors would accumulate crud or even chunks of rust that would completely stop the fuel system up. At a young age, I knew what a sediment bowl and a fuel filter was all about. As Always, Thanks for your great videos.
Thanks for the video! We’ve had the same issue with our z255. Sometimes it would run for an hour then start to die and only run on choke. We replaced fuel filter, fuel pump, cleaned carb and still no luck. After watching your video we checked our fuel line from the tank and the line at the connection to fuel pickup was starting to degrade and partially blocking the fuel. Also starting to get a flat spot where it bends sharply. Got a new fuel line and it’s working like new. Was about to throw in the towel, so thanks again for sharing and giving our JD new life!!
Good catch. The bad deal with many of these knock off carbs is longevity. I've had my share that a year later, they were corroded and useless. I've had people install them as well that never would run right, until I rebuilt their old carb. It is amazing the detail to them in comparison to the OEM though.
Thanks! Having the same problem. I have a z-track 375R. It'll only run on choke. I've been going through this sucker. Replaced the fuel pump fuel filter. The place of air filter replace the oil filter. Didn't even think the look on UA-cam. This is only 2 years old. 22 hours on it. Can't believe it. So frustrating but your video led me to the right direction. Thank you!
Great video buddy. I agree it would easy to over look the kinked fuel hose when the bad spot is hidden like that good job finding it. Thanks for the tip on the fuel line that is a great price. Have a question on a different subject. I need to replace our commercial hedge trimmers. They are an old pair of shindaiwa dh230. What would you replace them with?
So simple if you know what to look for. Like you said, Keep It Simple!!! Knowledge could save time and money as in this case for the owner. Great deductive reasoning!!! Thank you Sir!!!✨
Hello sir I have a really nice practically brand new poulan pro 25 cc pole saw ,the terrible thing is when I do the starter cord test the machine stays on the ground, I compression tested it dry it was 50 psi-the wet test was the same the question is what should the operation compression be I feel 100 psi would be nominal
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 well that isn't good ,I had a feeling it needed to be way up there, im finding that folks put straight up gas in thier 2 stroke mix systems ,I think its because of the 4 stroke machines on the mkt they don't pay attention to thier fuel cans which is mixed and which isn't I have cans that are marked 20-30 -40 and 50 /1, just an upside down thought
another problem i see is people don't let the equipment warm up before using it... the piston expands faster than the bore and makes contact with the bore, usually on the exhaust side, and the compression goes out the door.
Daddy has a Scag Tiger cat with a Kawasaki FH580V engine, it was dying out of choke so I put a new carburetor on and it now runs about halfway out of choke. Any suggestions?
Nice video! I have a john deere ztrak m665 , it will crank on choke then immediately shuts off. It has fire on both cylinders. To me, it sounds like the switch or a safety is shutting it off as soon as it cranks....I bypassed the seat and that didn't correct it. Actuated all the switches I know it has to see if it acted any different. I did notice that the ignition switch if I turn it all the way to start it won't crank....its a "sweet spot" to crank it. Before I order an ignition switch, is there anything you know of on this mower model that acts up like this as far as a common problem? To start with it would crank then as soon as I engaged the drive it shut off now it shuts off as soon as it cranks up....definitely has me stumped. Thanks in advance.
@THEMOWERMEDIC1 thanks for replying. looking at the carburetor on it, it looks like the float is in the upper part of it. I haven't removed the carburetor yet....wanted to ask you if that's the case with float or do I need to remove the complete carburetor to get to main jet and float? I worked on hundreds of carbs but none on a mower that looks like this one. Any additional info would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Whoda thunkit!? So obviously you couldn't see the kink until you removed the hose to look at it. Some intuition to think of that! Pity the engineers who designed such a passageway didn't have the intuition to predict that... or maybe they did... And were paid to do precisely that. I wonder what they're working on now.
Bulk 1/4” fuel line by ac delco / gates
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Body clip assortment
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Stens bulk fuel filters
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It’s amazing that you post this video when you did; Within the last few days I had fuel related issues with my 165 John Deere with a Kawasaki FB460V engine. The engine would start and try to run only with full choke applied in which anything less than full choke - The engine absolutely would not run.
I went through the normal troubleshooting procedures of replacing the fuel filter with no change in symptoms while even doing the SeaFoam carburetor flush and all. So after doing all of that, I then proceeded to change out the fuel pump and fuel pump pulse hose in addition to all the fuel hose from the carburetor backwards to the section of hose where it came from underneath the rear seat fender and ordered a new carburetor just in case.
So I decided to take a long section of 1/4” fuel hose and place one end into a small fuel container of fresh gas and the other end hooked up to the input side of the fuel pump in which the engine immediately started up after the fuel hit the carburetor. The engine ran as it always did with normal throttle/choke response and positioning. I intentionally ran the engine for a long period of time to make sure that it would indeed be okay before I moved to the next step. After attempting to allow gas to free flow from the open fuel line; I tried to suction some gas from the fuel line with not much luck. I took a blow gun and pushed it into the fuel line and blew compressed air backwards through the fuel tank with the fuel cap removed with 3 to 4 blasts of compressed air. After I removed the blow gun, I had good fuel flow and once putting the fuel hose back like it belongs - The engine ran as it did with the test fuel tank.
The fuel tank looked clean inside and I am not sure exactly what the actual obstruction was to be quite honest. The section of fuel hose had been replaced about 4 years ago and I was very careful in routing the fuel hose where it would not be kinked or pinched in any way.
So, I learned the trick of back flowing the fuel line into the fuel tank from growing up on a farm when the fuel tanks on the old tractors would accumulate crud or even chunks of rust that would completely stop the fuel system up. At a young age, I knew what a sediment bowl and a fuel filter was all about. As Always, Thanks for your great videos.
Thanks for the video! We’ve had the same issue with our z255. Sometimes it would run for an hour then start to die and only run on choke. We replaced fuel filter, fuel pump, cleaned carb and still no luck. After watching your video we checked our fuel line from the tank and the line at the connection to fuel pickup was starting to degrade and partially blocking the fuel. Also starting to get a flat spot where it bends sharply. Got a new fuel line and it’s working like new. Was about to throw in the towel, so thanks again for sharing and giving our JD new life!!
Thanks for the link to the pins. Great troubleshooting and not guessing.
I had the same problem Mower Medic , mine was also cracked, sucking air , but it didn’t leak, Thanks Great Video
Good catch. The bad deal with many of these knock off carbs is longevity. I've had my share that a year later, they were corroded and useless. I've had people install them as well that never would run right, until I rebuilt their old carb. It is amazing the detail to them in comparison to the OEM though.
Thanks! Having the same problem.
I have a z-track 375R. It'll only run on choke. I've been going through this sucker. Replaced the fuel pump fuel filter. The place of air filter replace the oil filter. Didn't even think the look on UA-cam. This is only 2 years old. 22 hours on it. Can't believe it. So frustrating but your video led me to the right direction. Thank you!
Great job sir, must always have to be on your toes when working on equipment after someone else has worked on it.
All the great tips and tricks never stop!!!!! Thanks for all you do!!!!!!!!
Great job! Best mower channel !
A short length of coiled wire fuel line protector like that used on some motorcycle gas tanks would be a good upgrade for those mowers.
Yep we used to put ball point pen springs in weedeater fuel line to keep them from kinking
Great video buddy. I agree it would easy to over look the kinked fuel hose when the bad spot is hidden like that good job finding it. Thanks for the tip on the fuel line that is a great price. Have a question on a different subject. I need to replace our commercial hedge trimmers. They are an old pair of shindaiwa dh230. What would you replace them with?
I would go
With the echo hc2020
So simple if you know what to look for. Like you said, Keep It Simple!!! Knowledge could save time and money as in this case for the owner. Great deductive reasoning!!! Thank you Sir!!!✨
I'm dealing with this exact issue. I'll let you know if this fixes it but.......great video and great information. Thank you sir.
How do you test a fuel pump to see if it works correctly. I have a John Deere x300 with Kawasaki motor and it's starving for fuel.
wow, that was excellent. first time I saw a hidden pinched fuel line as the cause for that problem.
Hello sir I have a really nice practically brand new poulan pro 25 cc pole saw ,the terrible thing is when I do the starter cord test the machine stays on the ground, I compression tested it dry it was 50 psi-the wet test was the same the question is what should the operation compression be I feel 100 psi would be nominal
125 min
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 well that isn't good ,I had a feeling it needed to be way up there, im finding that folks put straight up gas in thier 2 stroke mix systems ,I think its because of the 4 stroke machines on the mkt they don't pay attention to thier fuel cans which is mixed and which isn't I have cans that are marked 20-30 -40 and 50 /1, just an upside down thought
Thank you for the reply back 🙏
another problem i see is people don't let the equipment warm up before using it... the piston expands faster than the bore and makes contact with the bore, usually on the exhaust side, and the compression goes out the door.
Best Mover Repair account name EVER !
Nice bit of detective work.
Did you ever get brand and carburetor model number of aftermarket carb he put on it
This fixed my z255. I ended up routing the fuel line outside the cover to avoid having it pinch again, also.
Lotta combustible debris, gonna burn hot..🔥🔥
Good eye. Can't beat experience.
Thanks for the tips and info be safe brother 💯
Nice find good Sir. Most times it's always the simplest things. People should take more time to check everything before the shotgun approach.
Love the channel sir. Greetings from SW Oklahoma
Good find MM. They got lucky with that knock off carb. It is hit or miss. Mostly miss for me.
I’m going to suggest that they put the OEM Carburetor back on
First! Good catches!!!
Can you tell me how these small engines get spark advance.
Daddy has a Scag Tiger cat with a Kawasaki FH580V engine, it was dying out of choke so I put a new carburetor on and it now runs about halfway out of choke. Any suggestions?
Please send the link for the carb
I see that be for doing good now
I don't see the link to push retainers?
Pinned to
Comments
Nice video! I have a john deere ztrak m665 , it will crank on choke then immediately shuts off. It has fire on both cylinders. To me, it sounds like the switch or a safety is shutting it off as soon as it cranks....I bypassed the seat and that didn't correct it. Actuated all the switches I know it has to see if it acted any different. I did notice that the ignition switch if I turn it all the way to start it won't crank....its a "sweet spot" to crank it. Before I order an ignition switch, is there anything you know of on this mower model that acts up like this as far as a common problem? To start with it would crank then as soon as I engaged the drive it shut off now it shuts off as soon as it cranks up....definitely has me stumped. Thanks in advance.
Main jet in carb clogged
@THEMOWERMEDIC1 thanks for replying. looking at the carburetor on it, it looks like the float is in the upper part of it. I haven't removed the carburetor yet....wanted to ask you if that's the case with float or do I need to remove the complete carburetor to get to main jet and float? I worked on hundreds of carbs but none on a mower that looks like this one. Any additional info would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
That’s great info 👍
Good Job J
👍
👍👍
🤦♂️ is it wrong that im watching a loan more video Sunday dinner at mom's
Only if she knows as much about them.
Whoda thunkit!? So obviously you couldn't see the kink until you removed the hose to look at it. Some intuition to think of that! Pity the engineers who designed such a passageway didn't have the intuition to predict that... or maybe they did... And were paid to do precisely that. I wonder what they're working on now.
Sure is dirty
No maintenance no care.