Hey. works well. I love the 55-gallon rain barrel, I'm getting another one. This time it'll be for the front downspout on my garage, now the entire garage roof will provide garden watering. I have architectural roof shingles so I will only use the water on flower gardens, not for any plants I'd eventually ingest. I never got around to painting the first barrel. I decided that I'd paint the second one since it will temporarily be placed near the driveway, closer to the public view. I also figured I will remove the two-barrel hookups when the gardening season is done, this way all my water will return to the underground conduits that my town mandates for all surface water. In the meantime, I'll enjoy all the free water and be thrilled with having 100 gallons. ANOTHER IDEA, since I hooked up a kink-free tubing to the faucet on the barrel to drain into buckets, I found it takes time filling and emptying all those buckets. MY IDEA, I'm going to try to use the kink-free hose then add my extra submersible pond pump with another hose, to push the water out into the garden, instead of me filling up buckets. If it doesn't work, I'll cut an opening that will fit the submersible pump, into the barrel the attach the hose into the garden. COMMENT, I suggest the barrel's faucet tap should be about three inches from the bottom, allowing more of the accumulated water to be drained.
NPT is a tapered thread. You want to cut just enough to get the fitting to screw in halfway easily by hand . This lets you tighten 1/2 to 1 turn more to get a tight seal. Cutting more makes it easier to thread the fitting all the way but promotes leaks. Test fit the fitting after you have tapped appx 1/2 way down the tap bit. If you can turn the fitting in by hand 3 turns, you have tapped enough.
Great instruction. So clear and thorough. I loved these ideas: cutting around the cap area, pipe thread tool and the last few seconds showing the Camouflage paint. I have an idea to share with you, instead of drilling and screwing down screen, cut a 3 inch hole and place a garden pot inside another pot separated or sandwiched by the screen. This allows you to see the accumulated debris and remove it.
It appears that the existing cap thread in the top could have been used with a 2 inch PVC slip to thread adapter for the inlet from the downspout. Those pipes don't have to be glued allowing easy cleaning.
Bulkhead fittings are fine, but you need access inside the barrel to install them. With the low pressure of these barrels the fitting threaded into the side is fine. Done sa shown here, common house water pressure would blow the fitting out of the barrel. But the barrel might split before that happens.
I put 1in. PVC through the bung for a swivel fixture. It's easier to work with, sealed with silicone, and detachable. Barrel is upside-down, with downspout hole entry at barrel bottom and overflow on the side to reconnect with a drain. It's worked 15 years, wasn't drained a few winters, and still does not leak, in spite of sub-zero (Fahrenheit) cold snaps. You could get a threaded fixture to connect a gravity-fed hose to water plants. Mine is high enough to place a watering can under it. Like yours, but barrel is upside-down.
Thank you for showing us. I was looking and bulkhead cost too much as I wanted to put about 12 barrels for my garden as I fill up city tap water in those barrels and let it evaporate those chlorine out for couple of days then water all my garden. I have a question. Which way is better, use city water or it is better to let city tap water evaporate few days before I water garden. My garden is too far far away from house to use rain water.
I'm not affiliated with this video but, I have experimented with tap and rain water on my garden. I saw the plants actually wilt from tap water. That can't be a good thing.
@@johnwimbs2157 yea, I did that to my cucumber plants end of summer as it is time to end the summer garden so I decided to see what happens when I water them straight from city water line. It did killed my cucumber plants. City water horrible for my garden. I won't use them. I let full barrel of water to evaporate those chlorine out few days.
Because the system is not pressurized. A gate valve has a much narrower inner diameter and will provide significantly less flow than a ball valve if it is just a gravity system. Additionally, the quarter turn to open a ball valve is much easier than the 7 or 8 full turns to open a gate valve.
Ok for everyone who does this please set your 55 gallon barrel which weight fully about 450LBS onto Cinderblocks to have at least 2' space of the ground for easier access. Also will well publish soon more videos about this topic as well for larger scale setups and how to proper filter debris out too. Also please stay away with your system at least 2 feet from any electric systems like shown in the video to allow electric work to happen when needed. Also DO NOT DRILL out your openings on the top of the barrel, instead use 2" PVC pipe which fits exactly into the opening of the barrel. So if you do have a lot of water coming from your roof you can use a Y or T and have both 2" holes as a fill. And setup a T trap before it in which debris is been caught and also the first 1-2 Gallons of rain water which carry a lot of the dirt. We will be showing you a setup of this kind on our channel as well.
Hello PA Fish Preacher, Thanks for your comment. It is legal in Pennsylvania to collect and harvest rain water. You may want to check with your local Conservation District to find out what resources they have for purchasing a rain barrel. pacd.org/?page_id=1726 I hope this helps.
If you live in the Puget Sound, we, as a district, sell the blue barrels at cost. More information here - snohomishcd.org/rain-barrel-order. Also, you can try your local city stormwater department typically in Public Works. They, too, often sell rain barrels.
Typically, you can buy rain barrels through your local conservation district or municipality. Sometimes you see them at home improvement stores as well. We use recycled food safe barrels.
I bought some on highway where used tractors and pipes and junk stuffs are. I passed that place everyday and I notice blue barrels and burn trash barrels there. I also saw some at Tractor Supply Store as they have some in their parking lot inside the cage area. The ones I bought from junk yard, you could see them from the side of road on highway 271 about half way between Gilmer,TX and Gladwater,TX.
Nice work. I have been making rain barrels in Tacoma and for the PCD since 1999. I pretty recently learned that by flipping the hole saw in reverse its easier to drill, now its easier. Keep up the good work 🙂
Excellent! Thanks a lot for this video. You mention cleaning the barrel annually. Is there a trick for this, or must the silicone seals be broken then re-fixed?
rain catchers should be a design that comes with every home.a roof a already a rain catcher and we let all that water go to waste.infact i see a future where roofs are shaped to funnel water to one area to be collected
9:15 you recommend tapping all the way to the end of the tap. That's a big mistake. NPT is National Pipe Taper. By going all the way to the end you eliminate the taper and create what's called NPS or National Pipe Straight. Pipe thread is tapered to facilitate tight sealing. Being that the barrel wall is somewhat thin - you're eliminating the taper feature. I'd go just to the point where the starting teeth of the tap reach the fully formed threads. This way whatever you thread into it isn't trying to cut threads but the taper produces a very tight seal. I'd still use the silicone sealant, but you're going to get a tighter fit if you don't go to the end of the tap. I'm still watching. Just have to jump in right here to point out a common mistake. At 12:00 you show a plastic ball valve. Yeah, it's doable, but they often take considerably more effort to open and close. With the necessary force you COULD strip out your bottom through-hole barrel connector. A brass fitting would be easier on the connection. While plastic expands at a given rate, the brass fitting will also expand at it's own rate. The difference between the two can cause minor cracking and leaking. So use of metal fittings is not the BEST of the best option. A better option would be one of those hose attachment ball valves that are also of plastic. They're smaller and easier to operate than the ball valve you show in the video.
Wrong. He said it was an NPT tap. That means the cutting threads are tapered clear to the end of the threaded section. There is no "straight" threaded component to an NPT tap. The entire thing is tapered. You are referring to a NPT/NPS "combo" tap, which would be clearly labeled.
The wall of the barrel is so thin that any taper at all is going to be negligible. Tapping all the way means you'll have a loose and leaking joint every time all the time. @@rthinds
@@petec6690 Yes the walls are thin, so the "tapering" will be negligible. As for leaking joints, all one would need to do is screw the fitting all the way into the hole, where the tapered threads of the fitting match the tapered threads of the hole. In other words - as hand-tight as you can get it without stripping anything. Then it won't leak.
There are many ways to build a rain barrel, I hope you investigate more and find better ways than this. IE, use a bulkhead fitting for the faucet so you don't use any chemical sealants that could leak chemicals into the water.
If you live in Snohomish County, you can buy one from us for $50 plus tax. You need to be able to pick it up at our Lake Stevens office. Otherwise, many municipalities sell barrels for a reduced rate or help you build your own. I've also seen them at Costco.
I'm concerned about collecting from my gutters. I feel the water is safe for grass and outdoor plants, but with the tar roof, is it safe for vegetables and herbs?
Hi Laurie, I asked our team who works with rain barrels, and they provided this link: www.sightline.org/2015/01/07/a-green-light-for-using-rain-barrel-water-on-garden-edibles/ I hope this helps!
The pipe tap I purchased is coated with a lubricant and labeled with a caution: known to CA to cause cancer. Any tips on removing the lubricant before use on the drilled hole in the plastic barrel?
@@SnohomishCD since he didn't reply I will...I have four 55 gallon drums. I actually receive most of my monthly water from these 4. In the summer it's fine and warm and all that...but in the winter, how do you winterize the system safely? Still want to keep it potable... and where can I find an affordable bulk storage tank(3 to 5 k gallon)?
Unless the adjustable end wrench he is using was manufactured by the Cresent Tool Company it should be referred to as an adjustable end wrench, commonly called crescent wrench.
For the overflow, just screw a hose to the threads in the white plug on top. Why on earth would you cut a hole in the side? You've just reduced the barrel capacity by around 5 gallons. (Simply drill out the opening in the white plug.) Also, instead of drilling out the other white plug --- you know it unscrews, right? This is the strangest blue barrel conversion video I've watched.
Attn: physics lesson. You wouldn't want the overflow on top, as that is where the water comes in and has zero pounds of pressure above it. This is important. Also he drilled out the bung to create a larger input that can accept more water. Guy seems like an expert in this field.
Hey. works well. I love the 55-gallon rain barrel, I'm getting another one. This time it'll be for the front downspout on my garage, now the entire garage roof will provide garden watering. I have architectural roof shingles so I will only use the water on flower gardens, not for any plants I'd eventually ingest. I never got around to painting the first barrel. I decided that I'd paint the second one since it will temporarily be placed near the driveway, closer to the public view. I also figured I will remove the two-barrel hookups when the gardening season is done, this way all my water will return to the underground conduits that my town mandates for all surface water. In the meantime, I'll enjoy all the free water and be thrilled with having 100 gallons.
ANOTHER IDEA, since I hooked up a kink-free tubing to the faucet on the barrel to drain into buckets, I found it takes time filling and emptying all those buckets. MY IDEA, I'm going to try to use the kink-free hose then add my extra submersible pond pump with another hose, to push the water out into the garden, instead of me filling up buckets. If it doesn't work, I'll cut an opening that will fit the submersible pump, into the barrel the attach the hose into the garden. COMMENT, I suggest the barrel's faucet tap should be about three inches from the bottom, allowing more of the accumulated water to be drained.
Thank you for giving me the exact information I can order it online and finish my project tomorrow
NPT is a tapered thread. You want to cut just enough to get the fitting to screw in halfway easily by hand .
This lets you tighten 1/2 to 1 turn more to get a tight seal.
Cutting more makes it easier to thread the fitting all the way but promotes leaks.
Test fit the fitting after you have tapped appx 1/2 way down the tap bit. If you can turn the fitting in by hand 3 turns, you have tapped enough.
Why no plumbers tape on the brass hose attachments?
Great instruction. So clear and thorough. I loved these ideas: cutting around the cap area, pipe thread tool and the last few seconds showing the Camouflage paint. I have an idea to share with you, instead of drilling and screwing down screen, cut a 3 inch hole and place a garden pot inside another pot separated or sandwiched by the screen. This allows you to see the accumulated debris and remove it.
Neat idea. Thank you!
It appears that the existing cap thread in the top could have been used with a 2 inch PVC slip to thread adapter for the inlet from the downspout. Those pipes don't have to be glued allowing easy cleaning.
Have four set up. Need to have outlet holes made...was contemplating bulkhead fittings for that.
Bulkhead fittings are fine, but you need access inside the barrel to install them.
With the low pressure of these barrels the fitting threaded into the side is fine.
Done sa shown here, common house water pressure would blow the fitting out of the barrel.
But the barrel might split before that happens.
I put 1in. PVC through the bung for a swivel fixture. It's easier to work with, sealed with silicone, and detachable. Barrel is upside-down, with downspout hole entry at barrel bottom and overflow on the side to reconnect with a drain. It's worked 15 years, wasn't drained a few winters, and still does not leak, in spite of sub-zero (Fahrenheit) cold snaps. You could get a threaded fixture to connect a gravity-fed hose to water plants. Mine is high enough to place a watering can under it. Like yours, but barrel is upside-down.
You have the best video on this that I have seen. Thank you
Why did you use a 7/8" drill bit for a 3/4" tap? Wouldn't you want the hole size less than the tap size?
0:45 why is everybody straddling the barrels? Please
Thank you for showing us. I was looking and bulkhead cost too much as I wanted to put about 12 barrels for my garden as I fill up city tap water in those barrels and let it evaporate those chlorine out for couple of days then water all my garden. I have a question. Which way is better, use city water or it is better to let city tap water evaporate few days before I water garden. My garden is too far far away from house to use rain water.
I'm not affiliated with this video but, I have experimented with tap and rain water on my garden. I saw the plants actually wilt from tap water. That can't be a good thing.
@@johnwimbs2157 yea, I did that to my cucumber plants end of summer as it is time to end the summer garden so I decided to see what happens when I water them straight from city water line. It did killed my cucumber plants. City water horrible for my garden. I won't use them. I let full barrel of water to evaporate those chlorine out few days.
Why a nipple/ ball valve/ hose adapter, rather than a boiler drain or hose bib directly to the threaded hole?
Because the system is not pressurized. A gate valve has a much narrower inner diameter and will provide significantly less flow than a ball valve if it is just a gravity system.
Additionally, the quarter turn to open a ball valve is much easier than the 7 or 8 full turns to open a gate valve.
How do you clean out the sediments out each year? Would you remove the screen on top and flush it out upside down?
Yes. When it's empty, remove the screen and power wash the inside and replace the screen.
Hey I love the green leaf barrel where can I buy them?
Ok for everyone who does this please set your 55 gallon barrel which weight fully about 450LBS onto Cinderblocks to have at least 2' space of the ground for easier access. Also will well publish soon more videos about this topic as well for larger scale setups and how to proper filter debris out too. Also please stay away with your system at least 2 feet from any electric systems like shown in the video to allow electric work to happen when needed. Also DO NOT DRILL out your openings on the top of the barrel, instead use 2" PVC pipe which fits exactly into the opening of the barrel. So if you do have a lot of water coming from your roof you can use a Y or T and have both 2" holes as a fill. And setup a T trap before it in which debris is been caught and also the first 1-2 Gallons of rain water which carry a lot of the dirt. We will be showing you a setup of this kind on our channel as well.
How do you clean the barrel each year?
Excellent tutorial !
wish there was something like this in Pa.
Hello PA Fish Preacher,
Thanks for your comment. It is legal in Pennsylvania to collect and harvest rain water. You may want to check with your local Conservation District to find out what resources they have for purchasing a rain barrel.
pacd.org/?page_id=1726
I hope this helps.
And, more information - www.dep.pa.gov/Business/Water/CleanWater/StormwaterMgmt/Pages/Be-Stormwater-Smart-.aspx
Where's a good place to find cheap blue rain barrels?
If you live in the Puget Sound, we, as a district, sell the blue barrels at cost. More information here - snohomishcd.org/rain-barrel-order. Also, you can try your local city stormwater department typically in Public Works. They, too, often sell rain barrels.
You can try local feed and seed stores or distribution centers or craigslist or Facebook also
Found some for 10 bucks a piece on craigslist
Facebook marketplace
Thank you for sharing. Where can I buy this barrel? Can you please reply with a link.
Typically, you can buy rain barrels through your local conservation district or municipality. Sometimes you see them at home improvement stores as well. We use recycled food safe barrels.
I bought some on highway where used tractors and pipes and junk stuffs are. I passed that place everyday and I notice blue barrels and burn trash barrels there. I also saw some at Tractor Supply Store as they have some in their parking lot inside the cage area. The ones I bought from junk yard, you could see them from the side of road on highway 271 about half way between Gilmer,TX and Gladwater,TX.
Nice work. I have been making rain barrels in Tacoma and for the PCD since 1999. I pretty recently learned that by flipping the hole saw in reverse its easier to drill, now its easier. Keep up the good work 🙂
What if you don't have gutters?
You could put these barrels under your eve. Just make a larger hole on top so the water can flow straight into it
Excellent! Thanks a lot for this video. You mention cleaning the barrel annually. Is there a trick for this, or must the silicone seals be broken then re-fixed?
Very well detailed! Great video
How does the downspout connect to the barrel inlet? Thank you
Is this method mosquito resistant?
Great questions! Yes, the wire mesh we use should not allow mosquitos to pass through. I hope that helps.
rain catchers should be a design that comes with every home.a roof a already a rain catcher and we let all that water go to waste.infact i see a future where roofs are shaped to funnel water to one area to be collected
9:15 you recommend tapping all the way to the end of the tap. That's a big mistake. NPT is National Pipe Taper. By going all the way to the end you eliminate the taper and create what's called NPS or National Pipe Straight. Pipe thread is tapered to facilitate tight sealing. Being that the barrel wall is somewhat thin - you're eliminating the taper feature. I'd go just to the point where the starting teeth of the tap reach the fully formed threads. This way whatever you thread into it isn't trying to cut threads but the taper produces a very tight seal. I'd still use the silicone sealant, but you're going to get a tighter fit if you don't go to the end of the tap.
I'm still watching. Just have to jump in right here to point out a common mistake.
At 12:00 you show a plastic ball valve. Yeah, it's doable, but they often take considerably more effort to open and close. With the necessary force you COULD strip out your bottom through-hole barrel connector. A brass fitting would be easier on the connection. While plastic expands at a given rate, the brass fitting will also expand at it's own rate. The difference between the two can cause minor cracking and leaking. So use of metal fittings is not the BEST of the best option. A better option would be one of those hose attachment ball valves that are also of plastic. They're smaller and easier to operate than the ball valve you show in the video.
Wrong.
He said it was an NPT tap. That means the cutting threads are tapered clear to the end of the threaded section. There is no "straight" threaded component to an NPT tap. The entire thing is tapered.
You are referring to a NPT/NPS "combo" tap, which would be clearly labeled.
The wall of the barrel is so thin that any taper at all is going to be negligible. Tapping all the way means you'll have a loose and leaking joint every time all the time.
@@rthinds
@@petec6690
Yes the walls are thin, so the "tapering" will be negligible. As for leaking joints, all one would need to do is screw the fitting all the way into the hole, where the tapered threads of the fitting match the tapered threads of the hole.
In other words - as hand-tight as you can get it without stripping anything. Then it won't leak.
There are many ways to build a rain barrel, I hope you investigate more and find better ways than this. IE, use a bulkhead fitting for the faucet so you don't use any chemical sealants that could leak chemicals into the water.
Silicon is safe when dry.
@@bossdog1480 Sorry, but your wrong on that point. Contact GE tech support if you think you're correct.
The threader is pointless. Use a bulk head fitting for that instead. It's cheaper. Use a stick with reversed tape inside the barrel to tighten.
In U.K., and most of Europe the threads are not NPT, (National Pipe Thread) they are BSP (British Standard Pipe) Not interchangeable
Thank you
Where can I get c heap rain barrel?
If you live in Snohomish County, you can buy one from us for $50 plus tax. You need to be able to pick it up at our Lake Stevens office. Otherwise, many municipalities sell barrels for a reduced rate or help you build your own. I've also seen them at Costco.
Found some for 10 bucks a piece on craigslist
@@SnohomishCD I got mine from the local chook farm.
Does mosquito get in that screen
We have bad mosquito problems with standing water in Tennessee
@@galamenzie7825 Hi Gala, thanks for your question.. No, the screen holes are small enough to keep out mosquitos. I hope this helps!
I'm concerned about collecting from my gutters. I feel the water is safe for grass and outdoor plants, but with the tar roof, is it safe for vegetables and herbs?
Hi Laurie,
I asked our team who works with rain barrels, and they provided this link:
www.sightline.org/2015/01/07/a-green-light-for-using-rain-barrel-water-on-garden-edibles/
I hope this helps!
@@SnohomishCD thank you
The pipe tap I purchased is coated with a lubricant and labeled with a caution: known to CA to cause cancer. Any tips on removing the lubricant before use on the drilled hole in the plastic barrel?
From our engineer, "A strong soap should take off pretty much any form of lubricant. Most are oil or graphite based, and soap will remove them."
This does not address what to do in the winter time
What kind of information are you wanting for winter time, Barn Dweller?
@@SnohomishCD since he didn't reply I will...I have four 55 gallon drums. I actually receive most of my monthly water from these 4. In the summer it's fine and warm and all that...but in the winter, how do you winterize the system safely? Still want to keep it potable... and where can I find an affordable bulk storage tank(3 to 5 k gallon)?
Drain them!
My eyes say your rain barrel is way off level LOL 🙂
Problem is if you don’t get rain in several weeks......... you run dry.
Unless the adjustable end wrench he is using was manufactured by the Cresent Tool Company it should be referred to as an adjustable end wrench, commonly called crescent wrench.
For the overflow, just screw a hose to the threads in the white plug on top. Why on earth would you cut a hole in the side? You've just reduced the barrel capacity by around 5 gallons. (Simply drill out the opening in the white plug.) Also, instead of drilling out the other white plug --- you know it unscrews, right? This is the strangest blue barrel conversion video I've watched.
Attn: physics lesson. You wouldn't want the overflow on top, as that is where the water comes in and has zero pounds of pressure above it. This is important. Also he drilled out the bung to create a larger input that can accept more water. Guy seems like an expert in this field.
V. V.