So I have a single cam Martin Pantera. Just paper tuned and went from a 2" long low left tear to bullet holes. But now my rest is so far right that its not even close to center in the riser, and to align my sight the right 1/3 of my sight housing is blocked by my riser looking through my peep. Thoughts?
I have a Mathews v3. Getting constant left tare, played with the cam top hats, still rips left. Rest is at 13/16” like Mathews says. Couldn't figure it out until I shot my buddy's arrow. I was shooting a 340spine at 65lbs. 28” arrow. I shot his arrow, 340spine, 31” arrow and it was shooting perfect bullet holes every time. So should I move up to a 400spine since I cut at least 4” off my arrows?
I have the trophy ridge react h5 when practice tips you sight in 20 then 40 then rest will like up right when I go broadhead tuning dp I have to move the rest or the sights if so do I gst 20 then 40right
Hello, thank you. Very good videos. But, what is the sequence: 1 - Nock Tuning bare shaft arrows 2 - Paper tuning with fletched arrows or 3 - Spin testing bare shaft arrows. If the arrow spins left after leaving the bow, do I use LW or Rw feathers?
I would love to see high speed footage of the arrow in flight before corrections of the rest and after, as well as with to much facial pressure and correct amount.
What paper to use?Rice paper would seem good because it teares easy?I am asking because I use feathers and don't want to shoot them through tough paper.
I would really like you to make a vid about yoke-tuning. I have not seen any vids made of that important subject on the tube. Some short ones yes, but not any that goes deeper in to the subject. Tuning with the rest is not the answer to all bows and should only be used to fine tune a bow. Not for macrotuning of it.
3 yards is for rest adjustments like he is demonstrating here. As you move farther in distance the rest doesn't play as much of a role. What you'll be trying to correct at farther distances are spine stiffness and fletching. Hope this helps.
Great video but I have a question. When you release an arrow it has to bend thru paradox. I've seen many diff distances used to paper tune. At 3 yds as you stated, there is no way an arrow is done flexing from paradox. Am I wrong? I've watched many a slow motion video on arrow flight and most all arrows were still flexing at many yards past the bow. How can you get a true picture of what adjustments you need to make to get the best arrow flight. Shouldn't this be done at longer distances when the arrow has a chance to straighten during flight. I've always had this question from clear back when I first started tuning bows back in the mid 80's and 90's. I've always paper tuned at at least 10 yds. My feeling was I want to know what the arrow is doing at the ranges I will shooting at, not right in front of me. Your ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The fletching corrects arrow flight by that distance and hides issues with the arrow leaving the bow... Paper tuning at distance has value - but only if you're using bare shafts.
I found the best way to shoot perfect bullet holes is to paper tune your bow 2ft away that way there's nothing to affect it's flight pattern. Left nock tear that close means you move the arrow rest to the left. Follow the arrow nock. Once you shoot perfect holes shoot a bear shaft arrow at 20 yards and make extremely small corrections.
My arrows kick to the right every time and nothing I do with the rest fixes it... I'm sure its not my grip or pressure against my face, or the way I'm releasing, because I've mixed it up so many different ways and it's always the same. Could the cams be responsible?
My local bow tech had my bow in the vice and leveled the arrow to the leveled bow string. After shooting my Mathews z2, it created a hole below the fletchings. My bow tech immediately said he thought I had one limb stronger than the other and recommended me buying new limbs. Is this a normal reaction?
sounds like your bow tech just wants to sell you new limbs!. Alternatively, just raise your arrow rest a little and shoot again. Simply setting an arrow in the rest and setting it level does not take into account the forces applied to the arrow when it's shot! rests drop, blades flex and this has to be taken into account when tuning. just adjust your rest or go to another bow technician.
Why would you move the rest to the left on a nick right (point left) tear? Doing so would move the point out further to the left and exaggerate the problem, not correct it. You want to move the rest in the direction that will bring the point in line with the fletching. Basically - that means moving the rest in the direction that is from the point's tear to the fletching's tear. This video does do that for the verticle, but it's backward on the horizontal.
that's is what I thought too - but considering that most of the "subject matter experts", e.g. also T.G. ua-cam.com/video/AVWbAGG24Xk/v-deo.html send out the same message, there must be more to it. After some contemplating I came to the following conclusion: they are correct if they talk about a small deviation from the center shot and a arrow with a relative soft spine. Then the archer's paradox will cause the tear pattern they talking about that needs to be corrected by moving the rest in the opposite direction of the tear. However, if you have a very stiff spine, or shoot with a relative low poundage, or if your deviation from the center shot is high, or worse: all of these scenarios together - then you have to move your arrow rest first so the point of your arrow moves towards where the tear is. I guess that would also explain why there is so much confusion about the right way to move the arrow rest: it all depends on your setup (poundage, spine) and how big the deviation is from the ideal center shot.
@@LancasterArcherySupply I don't believe my bow has yokes. It is a 2006 Bowtech Tomkat. I have never taken proper "lessons" on shooting, but I was getting good groups with my 100 grain field tips, and was shooting high and left with my 100 grain RamCat broadheads. I decided to paper tune, and that is when I noticed my right tear issue. I am headed to the bow shop tonight and see what the experts say. I hope it is user error because that is something I can/want to correct. I find it hard to believe that my field tips and broadheads are way off at 20 yards. Thanks for the video and the info!
@@vikingslayer34 You are correct. That bow does not have yokes. The difference you are seeing between field points and broadheads is quite common, but it's harder to fix on your bow, since you don't have yokes. You might find that the fix requires moving your cams on the axle....unless the problem is hand torque, as you suggested might be the problem. If you had yokes, you would just add twists to change the cam lean. Since you don't have them, the fix usually is to move the cams with shims.
Good video although could have been much more help IF at the beginning you would have added the following information. Each bow and each arrow is different. My bow is 60-70 pound pull and I use a 400 spine arrow. I can shoot at 10 yards and the arrow fletching trails left 1-2 inches and 1 inch high. I can then back up to 20 yards with the same equipment and it shoots a perfect bullet hole. I can change equipment and get different results. Different Force against different material causes flexation so Trial and error is the best way to go , Never assume everyone can get the same results as posted on any one video.
You should paper tune at 8 yards minimum so shaft paradox stops. Please cover this so your followers learn this. Also can you cover bare shaft tuning then nock tuning before adding flechings? Thanks! Good work
If you all haven't seen a documentary called.... It's worse than you think... Bye revelations of Jesus Christ ministries... I suggest you do... All praise and glory to the most high Jesus Christ
Thanks a bunch for all your informative videos.You are an awesome example and educator. I have learned so much helpful information from you!
Thank you! You explain tuning issues the best. Clear, concise and to the point.
So this has been online almost 5 years! Much appreciation for sharing your knowledge. Very clear explanation.
Im a greenhorn but will be bad ass if i keep watching your vids! Straight to the point no extra talk great videos keep them coming.
Thank you for getting right to the point and explaining it simple.
Solid knowledge and clearly communicated for beginners like myself. Thanks
Best explanation on paper running I've watched! Much appreciated.
You the man! Thanks for doing what you do...
Sincerely,
Roger
Very helpful and love the split screen animations! Much appreciated!
Love u dude u have improved my shooting so much. Mahalo
Great video, it was a lot of help to me. Thank you!
Great information. Best video I have seen explaining how to correct flight issues!
Thanks Dud another problem solved, thank you.
Thank you for your detailed explantion.
Thanks a bunch John!
Can I come hunt with you? lol I'm good with a camera! Great video John. No question,one of the greats out there today.
Great video! Thanks!
Thank you, excellent!
So I have a single cam Martin Pantera. Just paper tuned and went from a 2" long low left tear to bullet holes. But now my rest is so far right that its not even close to center in the riser, and to align my sight the right 1/3 of my sight housing is blocked by my riser looking through my peep. Thoughts?
Thank you
Can I give the 2 thumbs 👍up? I’ve watched this so many times and has helped tons. Thanks.
Thank you sir!
how does arrow spine come into play. too weak or too stiff can give the same tears
I have a Mathews v3. Getting constant left tare, played with the cam top hats, still rips left. Rest is at 13/16” like Mathews says. Couldn't figure it out until I shot my buddy's arrow. I was shooting a 340spine at 65lbs. 28” arrow. I shot his arrow, 340spine, 31” arrow and it was shooting perfect bullet holes every time. So should I move up to a 400spine since I cut at least 4” off my arrows?
I have the trophy ridge react h5 when practice tips you sight in 20 then 40 then rest will like up right when I go broadhead tuning dp I have to move the rest or the sights if so do I gst 20 then 40right
What would be the next step to tuning bow after getting it paper tuned and sighted in?
Hello, thank you. Very good videos. But, what is the sequence: 1 - Nock Tuning bare shaft arrows 2 - Paper tuning with fletched arrows or 3 - Spin testing bare shaft arrows. If the arrow spins left after leaving the bow, do I use LW or Rw feathers?
I would love to see high speed footage of the arrow in flight before corrections of the rest and after, as well as with to much facial pressure and correct amount.
What paper to use?Rice paper would seem good because it teares easy?I am asking because I use feathers and don't want to shoot them through tough paper.
What’s the best distance from bow to paper when tuning? What’s too close or too far? Thanks for another great vid, John!
Says 3 yrd right off the bat
I would really like you to make a vid about yoke-tuning. I have not seen any vids made of that important subject on the tube. Some short ones yes, but not any that goes deeper in to the subject. Tuning with the rest is not the answer to all bows and should only be used to fine tune a bow. Not for macrotuning of it.
QUESTION: At what distance the paper tuning is accurate? im getting
different results at 6 ft and 20 ft. Please advice.
I heard from a reputable source that any distance should look the same.
3 yards is for rest adjustments like he is demonstrating here. As you move farther in distance the rest doesn't play as much of a role. What you'll be trying to correct at farther distances are spine stiffness and fletching. Hope this helps.
If your bow isn’t aligned vertically and horizontally when shooting would that have an affect in paper tuning?
Thanks
Great video but I have a question. When you release an arrow it has to bend thru paradox. I've seen many diff distances used to paper tune. At 3 yds as you stated, there is no way an arrow is done flexing from paradox. Am I wrong? I've watched many a slow motion video on arrow flight and most all arrows were still flexing at many yards past the bow. How can you get a true picture of what adjustments you need to make to get the best arrow flight. Shouldn't this be done at longer distances when the arrow has a chance to straighten during flight. I've always had this question from clear back when I first started tuning bows back in the mid 80's and 90's. I've always paper tuned at at least 10 yds. My feeling was I want to know what the arrow is doing at the ranges I will shooting at, not right in front of me. Your ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The fletching corrects arrow flight by that distance and hides issues with the arrow leaving the bow... Paper tuning at distance has value - but only if you're using bare shafts.
I found the best way to shoot perfect bullet holes is to paper tune your bow 2ft away that way there's nothing to affect it's flight pattern. Left nock tear that close means you move the arrow rest to the left. Follow the arrow nock. Once you shoot perfect holes shoot a bear shaft arrow at 20 yards and make extremely small corrections.
@@joeversus2893incorrect! U move it right
@@reddawng43x91 why? what is the theory?
Why don't the thumbs down people elaborate on why they gave thumbs down?
"SOME of the POTENTIAL problems that MIGHT give...". The fine print.
Is bareshaft the same?
My arrows kick to the right every time and nothing I do with the rest fixes it... I'm sure its not my grip or pressure against my face, or the way I'm releasing, because I've mixed it up so many different ways and it's always the same. Could the cams be responsible?
Jmac Possibly an issue with the arrow being too stiff
i have the same problem but my arrows kick down every time... do you discovered the problem?
My local bow tech had my bow in the vice and leveled the arrow to the leveled bow string. After shooting my Mathews z2, it created a hole below the fletchings. My bow tech immediately said he thought I had one limb stronger than the other and recommended me buying new limbs. Is this a normal reaction?
sounds like your bow tech just wants to sell you new limbs!. Alternatively, just raise your arrow rest a little and shoot again.
Simply setting an arrow in the rest and setting it level does not take into account the forces applied to the arrow when it's shot! rests drop, blades flex and this has to be taken into account when tuning. just adjust your rest or go to another bow technician.
You can also tiller tune also
Adjust one side of the poundage lol ! Jesus Christ that tech is dumb
What bow is that?
Why would you move the rest to the left on a nick right (point left) tear? Doing so would move the point out further to the left and exaggerate the problem, not correct it. You want to move the rest in the direction that will bring the point in line with the fletching. Basically - that means moving the rest in the direction that is from the point's tear to the fletching's tear. This video does do that for the verticle, but it's backward on the horizontal.
that's is what I thought too - but considering that most of the "subject matter experts", e.g. also T.G. ua-cam.com/video/AVWbAGG24Xk/v-deo.html send out the same message, there must be more to it. After some contemplating I came to the following conclusion: they are correct if they talk about a small deviation from the center shot and a arrow with a relative soft spine. Then the archer's paradox will cause the tear pattern they talking about that needs to be corrected by moving the rest in the opposite direction of the tear. However, if you have a very stiff spine, or shoot with a relative low poundage, or if your deviation from the center shot is high, or worse: all of these scenarios together - then you have to move your arrow rest first so the point of your arrow moves towards where the tear is. I guess that would also explain why there is so much confusion about the right way to move the arrow rest: it all depends on your setup (poundage, spine) and how big the deviation is from the ideal center shot.
I keep getting a right tear even after adjusting my rest. Maybe it's user error?
You might need to add/subtract twists to the yokes, if your bow has them
@@LancasterArcherySupply I don't believe my bow has yokes. It is a 2006 Bowtech Tomkat. I have never taken proper "lessons" on shooting, but I was getting good groups with my 100 grain field tips, and was shooting high and left with my 100 grain RamCat broadheads. I decided to paper tune, and that is when I noticed my right tear issue. I am headed to the bow shop tonight and see what the experts say. I hope it is user error because that is something I can/want to correct. I find it hard to believe that my field tips and broadheads are way off at 20 yards. Thanks for the video and the info!
@@vikingslayer34 You are correct. That bow does not have yokes. The difference you are seeing between field points and broadheads is quite common, but it's harder to fix on your bow, since you don't have yokes. You might find that the fix requires moving your cams on the axle....unless the problem is hand torque, as you suggested might be the problem. If you had yokes, you would just add twists to change the cam lean. Since you don't have them, the fix usually is to move the cams with shims.
@@LancasterArcherySupply Awesome I appreciate your input!
Paper tune after bare shaft tuning?
bare shaft tuning is for traditional archery disciplines.
I added 100 gr. Insert and Still had nock low tare!!!
100grain is nothing. Need 150minimum.
I had a low tear, only way I got rid of it was to raise my rest!!!
Good video although could have been much more help IF at the beginning you would have added the following information.
Each bow and each arrow is different. My bow is 60-70 pound pull and I use a 400 spine arrow. I can shoot at 10 yards and the arrow fletching trails left 1-2 inches and 1 inch high. I can then back up to 20 yards with the same equipment and it shoots a perfect bullet hole.
I can change equipment and get different results. Different Force against different material causes flexation so Trial and error is the best way to go , Never assume everyone can get the same results as posted on any one video.
Apparently the longer the arrow travels the more it sets itself up to fly straight. That's why paper tuning is done over a short distance.
You should paper tune at 8 yards minimum so shaft paradox stops. Please cover this so your followers learn this. Also can you cover bare shaft tuning then nock tuning before adding flechings? Thanks! Good work
This is wrong isn't it?
? No
Paper tuning should be done at AT LEAST 5 yards...
Wver heard of archers paradox???
If you all haven't seen a documentary called.... It's worse than you think... Bye revelations of Jesus Christ ministries... I suggest you do... All praise and glory to the most high Jesus Christ