One thing to keep in mind with the wiring underneath… use a conduit pipe of some sort and keep the wires accessible for any future upgrades or repair….
Depending on the conduit type chosen, I'm not sure running it beneath the trailer's frame is a good suggestion. Schedule 40 PVC would stand up better to the elements than metallic conduit, but rock deflections while traveling could damage the conduit and if damaged enough, could also damage the conductors within it. Schedule 80 PVC has a heavier wall thickness, but is still plastic. Metallic conduit is also an option. There are three types of metallic conduit to choose from (EMT - Electrical Metallic Conduit, IMC - Intermediate Metallic Conduit and GRC - Galvanized Rigid Conduit). EMT being the style with the thinnest wall thickness and GRC being the style with the greatest. GRC is heavier and therefore harder to bend, but as long as your bends are either 45 or 90 deg., manufactured elbows can be purchased. No-thread fittings eliminate the need for cutting threads in the conduit and are also available for GRC, just make sure the fittings you use are designed for GRC since the O.D. of GRC is greater than that of EMT or IMC. No-thread fittings are available in either compression (likely the best choice for this installation) or set-screw (however, this type does a poor job of limiting the entrance of dust and moisture) type couplings and connectors. Rust, as a result of the installation environment, is a serious issue to consider, so choose wisely.
Great installation decisions. The only thing left that would prevent air passage in a possible snow storm is stapling clear plastic throughout the interior to your wood frame. This would create a sound vapor barrier in your walls increasing your R factor. Awesome DIY videos.
Visited our kids in Coldstream BC in December 2021 from Cape Town. I actually enjoyed the snow and playing in it. But it was COLD! Enjoy the videos, thanks.
Since you are building this for your own use and to your own specifications, I would suggest, rather than burying the wiring in the walls and under the floor, that you run wiring internally in diagonal chases in the wall corners and at the wall/ceiling juncture. This would allow for any wiring maintenance as well as the inevitable systems modifications and expansions. I would also suggest going up one wire size to minimize any current losses in the slightly longer wiring runs. Nice project so far.
For someone who's been in construction for 45 years in my opinion I think you're doing a great job, & really like the wood stove for heat, there's pro's & con's in everything but the wood stove is a good choice.
Just started watching your build looks really good my wife and I bought a cargo trailer and converted it into a camper we wired it installed a power panel the works we also insulated the same way that you did .the build was complete a couple of years ago and have been camping it ever since we really injoy it keep up the great work
Great job insulating. RV manufacturers suck at making trailers reject heat in the summers or keep heat in the winters. amazing trailer you have built. Subscribed.
Hi there.. This is my first time on your channel and I like it so far. I do have a few suggestions for you though. 1) Run all your wiring in a conduit under the trailer so wires can be replaced if they ever short. Try to make trap doors to get to the junction boxes with the same insulation you are using in the walls. That should keep from condensing water in/on the boxes. 2) If you are building upper cabinets inside her, design a fan and ductwork to take the heated air off your ceiling and duct it to the floor OR at least, duct it to aim toward the floor. You won't be sorry you did!!
Love to watch you build that camper man good job keep it up. I got a camper to but it’s bigger, it’s a 30 foot 5ths wheel two axle. That’s going to be a big job if I get to doing it. Well thanks for showing telling wish me luck when I if I start on my trailer and make it a camper right,right well see ya next time see ya bye.
There are advantages and disadvantages in all heat sources. The stove adds an ambience that no other source can provide. As long as you can keep you water tanks warm that's all that matters.
Nice job and a good choice. Styrofoam is inexpensive when compared to other foam board products. It's ridged and adds integrity to the construction. I did a tiny house with a spray foam contractor and it was a mess! 11 bags of useless foam scraps just to get the paneling installed! And it was expensive. My next one will be Styrofoam. I spent 20 years as an industrial insulator and I avoid loose fill products on small spaces for the same reason you explain. Kudos to you for a great build and well done video! Thankyou for sharing
Great build. One suggestion for others who will be cutting Styrofoam. Use a table saw or circular saw for very fast, straight and smooth cuts. Even if you use a small portable tabletop table saw you can mark the top of your piece and guide it visually without a rip fence.
I rebuilt a 28' bumper pull. I did same thing with styrofoam. I even covered all wood and styrofoam contacts with tape to cut down on air leaks. Food for thought
Do a bit of research on the cable you are using in the UK we don't mix styrofoam and PVC cable because it effects the insulation eventually leading to it breaking down and short circuits and electrical fires , some types of cable are unaffected though and don't forget cables embedded in insulation will need to be drastically derated, were possible I would go under the floor in conduits you can get flexible conduit and fittings really cheep , trailer is looking great really like how you put it together... great video 👍🏻
Gidday Eddie me again matey ,mate you've got real cool inso there that'll keep dad really warm in the-Deg the solid wood stove burner will also help keep out winter chills great job mate awesome. Cheers till next time Wattie from down under NZ.
Another option to consider for the floor insulation would be to install extra dense 1" or 2" foam on top of the 3/4"subfloor... and then coving it with flooring (maybe another thin layer of ply as well). This keeps the insulation out of the elements. Might be an issue with headroom though. Thanks for the videos and tips.
use some Tyvec sheet insulation on the inside as well as outside, then if you are going to sheet over that with a thin wood paneling use Z strip for an air gap, sound and insulation..
You don't want to use wool insulation or fiberglass insulation because of the water issues, but you could use Rockwool. Rockwool doesn't absorb water and it keeps its shape quite well. If you were going to use spray foam, you could add conduit in advance. That's the standard way of providing wiring flexibility. Of course your current insulation looks great; just wanted to mention how other options might work.
Great idea choosing styrofoam, being able to remove it for wiring and vent installation will help. The wood burner will be perfect ! It’ll look awesome in there and you can’t beat a cozy fire. Great job on the trailer, I look forward to all your video, can’t wait to see the finished product.
An electric carving knife zips easily and cleanly through any type of foam, so it should work on styrofoam, too. I cut memory foam to fit odd sizes and it does a great job.
If it were me, I'd be running some conduit in the walls so if you need to change out wires, like for example, for the tail lights, you can easily thread them through the conduit.
Use Pex tubing as conduit so you can replace wires if needed. Also think about the ability to change your turn light fixtures if the get broken or corroded
You will have to provide a fresh air vent to feed air into the trailer near the wood stove. You have built a very tight enclosed space and a wood stove (even a small one) needs air to function correctly.
Really like the wood burning stove idea. For backup, maybe one of those small Diesel heater’s would be better. Propane heaters will just add more moisture to the interior. Especially one so well built and sealed. They also make a propane unit that intakes and exhaust to outside so the warm air coming in does not have the moisture from propane. Think It is Propex.
Very inspiring video and channel. Video are very well done! My questions is about the windows: are they double pane ? How did yoi work with the isolation around them ?
Looking good. Yeah, smart idea to insulate the floor. Looking forward to the next step. Busy time of year to spend on a camper though, but we'll be here when you get time to build, film, edit and load it.
I would think about like kinda routing the insulation about quarter inch and running the wiring along that so the wires don't touch the skin of trailer
YOUR WORK IS IMPRESSIVE, PRECISE, THOUGHT-OUT AND QUALITY ORIENTED. WONDERFUL DISPLAY OF CRAFTSMANSHIP WE CAN TELL YOU MUST BE A TRADES PERSON(my guess) BECAUSE OF HOW YOU APPROACH STUFF. ENJOYED THIS SERIES. YOU ARE THE NEW BENCHMARK TO BUILD YOUR OWN TRAILER. I BOUGHT ONE, USED. THAT WAY NO ONE CAN COMPARE YOUR WORK TO MINE 😏😂 YOU’D WIN.
Stumbled on your videos totally by chance and I'm liking what your doing. Will keep watching looking forward to the finished product. I wonder if a poly vapor barrier much like in a house wouldn't help the condensation in the walls ?
In my experience, that's nowhere near enough insulation. I'm disabled and homeless, I've been surviving in an antique, rotten, motor home for a long time now, it had two inches of foam insulation from the factory and that didn't do much, of course it had way too many windows. The first thing I did was insulate the windows as much as I could (I now only have the window on my door visible, but I have plastic on both sides of it), then as I could afford it, I bought 2 inch thick sheets of R-Max (polyisocyanurate foam with radiant barrier foil facing on both sides, much higher R value per inch than bead foam) and some 1/4" thick packing foam (for the flexibility, to provide a tight seal) and covered the entire wall where each window was, first with the 1/4" packing foam, then with the 2" R-Max. So now I have 4" thick foam walls and it's made a huge difference, but it still gets too cold in the winter and too hot in the summer and takes too much power (though not nearly as much as it used to). I'm hoping to add another two inches of the dense blue foam on the entire outside, except I want to do a total of six more inches on the roof and as much as I can get into the underside. But that's looking like a pipe dream currently. Perhaps I should mention that I live in the North West part of the U.S.A., just a few miles from the Canadian border, where it gets very cold in the winter and very hot in the summer.
Far as heating i would just use propane heater and propane water heater. Always carry a generator, for TV, Computer, lighting, space heater, AC, Fans, and electric appliances, ect. and your BBQ Pit with ya. A Weber Grill is not only a grill, its a flat grill, pizza, bread, and as a oven as well! To smoke and bake with! I make excellent breads and pizza off my Weber grill! with Pizza pans and Bread pans
I think you doing a great job man nice discovery about the styrofoam and the wall of the aluminum that's a good catch I seen another guy making one almost the same as you and he did the same thing he glued his styrofoam to the aluminum but it's moving along fine can't wait to see the next step thanks for sharing buddy 👍✌️😁
I'm really enjoying this. Your attention to detail and why and how's are inspiring. I purchased a similar trailer a few years ago. And have watched many UA-cam videos. Not inspiring enough. With that said. My going to fallow your plan. Don't know about the floor plan yet. I'll decide that after I see your build. Thanks im sure im not the only one that's been thinking about it.
I ran across you on Joe’s channel, the camping trip you and him had together, and found your channel through the link he put up. This is interesting stuff. Thanks. Also enjoyed your winter camping content. Thoroughly enjoyable. Liked and subbed.
I notice in one of the comments: Ants love foam, be careful. Of course is seeing, that maybe sealing each piece in some form of plastic, but that could become a future hazard and spraying ant spray would be health, possible hazard. So what is your opinion on how to keep the creatures out and maybe away, for their own safety? Lol. Well either one's soul is a murder or not. Yes?
Trailer looks super! I’d go with wiring in conduit as well.. Are u taping the joints and vapour barriering the walls and roof? Wood stove makes best choice! 👍 Waiting for camping videos this winter! Nice job. B Deacon Manitoba Canada 🇨🇦
I also have that same stove in my trailer. For wood I collect banna boxes. I end up burning 4x4 cut 6 inch they stack neat and tight in the boxes. I have when away from propane as a heat . As it burns it making water vapor on the inside . The wood heat takes it away but not in the far corners from the stove. I am going to a Chinese diesel heater . I had one in a big truck great heat didn't like the clicking noise . Wood heat great choose I even heat can of food up on mine. Pork beans.
Have you talked to your insurance company about coverage? I would think for a custom build there may be issues for them... Will they cover? What kind of rate did they come up with ?
One thing to keep in mind with the wiring underneath… use a conduit pipe of some sort and keep the wires accessible for any future upgrades or repair….
GREAT SUGGESTION AND ALSO TO PROTECT FROM ELEMENTS AND RODENTS.
Depending on the conduit type chosen, I'm not sure running it beneath the trailer's frame is a good suggestion. Schedule 40 PVC would stand up better to the elements than metallic conduit, but rock deflections while traveling could damage the conduit and if damaged enough, could also damage the conductors within it. Schedule 80 PVC has a heavier wall thickness, but is still plastic. Metallic conduit is also an option. There are three types of metallic conduit to choose from (EMT - Electrical Metallic Conduit, IMC - Intermediate Metallic Conduit and GRC - Galvanized Rigid Conduit). EMT being the style with the thinnest wall thickness and GRC being the style with the greatest. GRC is heavier and therefore harder to bend, but as long as your bends are either 45 or 90 deg., manufactured elbows can be purchased. No-thread fittings eliminate the need for cutting threads in the conduit and are also available for GRC, just make sure the fittings you use are designed for GRC since the O.D. of GRC is greater than that of EMT or IMC. No-thread fittings are available in either compression (likely the best choice for this installation) or set-screw (however, this type does a poor job of limiting the entrance of dust and moisture) type couplings and connectors. Rust, as a result of the installation environment, is a serious issue to consider, so choose wisely.
Great installation decisions. The only thing left that would prevent air passage in a possible snow storm is stapling clear plastic throughout the interior to your wood frame. This would create a sound vapor barrier in your walls increasing your R factor. Awesome DIY videos.
One problem i think there could be with making it too air tight with plastic would be condensation build up. maybe use house wrap instead?
Visited our kids in Coldstream BC in December 2021 from Cape Town. I actually enjoyed the snow and playing in it. But it was COLD! Enjoy the videos, thanks.
Since you are building this for your own use and to your own specifications, I would suggest, rather than burying the wiring in the walls and under the floor, that you run wiring internally in diagonal chases in the wall corners and at the wall/ceiling juncture. This would allow for any wiring maintenance as well as the inevitable systems modifications and expansions. I would also suggest going up one wire size to minimize any current losses in the slightly longer wiring runs. Nice project so far.
For someone who's been in construction for 45 years in my opinion I think you're doing a great job, & really like the wood stove for heat, there's pro's & con's in everything but the wood stove is a good choice.
Just started watching your build looks really good my wife and I bought a cargo trailer and converted it into a camper we wired it installed a power panel the works we also insulated the same way that you did .the build was complete a couple of years ago and have been camping it ever since we really injoy it keep up the great work
Thanks
These just get better each time
I missed out on sooo much Scott, it’s been a hectic new year. Lol!! ML&Aloha Your Boy Kekoa&Ohana.
Great job insulating. RV manufacturers suck at making trailers reject heat in the summers or keep heat in the winters. amazing trailer you have built. Subscribed.
Hi there.. This is my first time on your channel and I like it so far. I do have a few suggestions for you though. 1) Run all your wiring in a conduit under the trailer so wires can be replaced if they ever short. Try to make trap doors to get to the junction boxes with the same insulation you are using in the walls. That should keep from condensing water in/on the boxes. 2) If you are building upper cabinets inside her, design a fan and ductwork to take the heated air off your ceiling and duct it to the floor OR at least, duct it to aim toward the floor. You won't be sorry you did!!
One disadvantage to the Buddy heater would be even more moisture. Burning propane creates a lot of moisture, electric and wood heat will dry it out.
Love to watch you build that camper man good job keep it up. I got a camper to but it’s bigger, it’s a 30 foot 5ths wheel two axle. That’s going to be a big job if I get to doing it. Well thanks for showing telling wish me luck when I if I start on my trailer and make it a camper right,right well see ya next time see ya bye.
Looking very well done Scott!
Thank you! Cheers!
There are advantages and disadvantages in all heat sources. The stove adds an ambience that no other source can provide. As long as you can keep you water tanks warm that's all that matters.
Nice job and a good choice. Styrofoam is inexpensive when compared to other foam board products. It's ridged and adds integrity to the construction. I did a tiny house with a spray foam contractor and it was a mess! 11 bags of useless foam scraps just to get the paneling installed! And it was expensive. My next one will be Styrofoam. I spent 20 years as an industrial insulator and I avoid loose fill products on small spaces for the same reason you explain. Kudos to you for a great build and well done video! Thankyou for sharing
Great build. One suggestion for others who will be cutting Styrofoam. Use a table saw or circular saw for very fast, straight and smooth cuts. Even if you use a small portable tabletop table saw you can mark the top of your piece and guide it visually without a rip fence.
I rebuilt a 28' bumper pull. I did same thing with styrofoam. I even covered all wood and styrofoam contacts with tape to cut down on air leaks. Food for thought
nice video friend thanks for sharing tutorial
Du sur mesure, travail nickel.c'est sûr qu'il faut une très bonne isolation..avec vos températures extrêmes!..bravo pour l'extérieur.. j'adore 👍
Merci.
Do a bit of research on the cable you are using in the UK we don't mix styrofoam and PVC cable because it effects the insulation eventually leading to it breaking down and short circuits and electrical fires , some types of cable are unaffected though and don't forget cables embedded in insulation will need to be drastically derated, were possible I would go under the floor in conduits you can get flexible conduit and fittings really cheep , trailer is looking great really like how you put it together... great video 👍🏻
very nice construction... smart and good looking man. Enjoyed to watch it all :)
Well done Scott! I would have done Rockwool. Because it's fire proof. 👍😁👍😁
Gidday Eddie me again matey ,mate you've got real cool inso there that'll keep dad really warm in the-Deg the solid wood stove burner will also help keep out winter chills great job mate awesome.
Cheers till next time Wattie from down under NZ.
Another option to consider for the floor insulation would be to install extra dense 1" or 2" foam on top of the 3/4"subfloor... and then coving it with flooring (maybe another thin layer of ply as well). This keeps the insulation out of the elements. Might be an issue with headroom though. Thanks for the videos and tips.
👍👍👍
use some Tyvec sheet insulation on the inside as well as outside, then if you are going to sheet over that with a thin wood paneling use Z strip for an air gap, sound and insulation..
You don't want to use wool insulation or fiberglass insulation because of the water issues, but you could use Rockwool. Rockwool doesn't absorb water and it keeps its shape quite well. If you were going to use spray foam, you could add conduit in advance. That's the standard way of providing wiring flexibility. Of course your current insulation looks great; just wanted to mention how other options might work.
I can’t wait to see you out in the woods enjoying this masterpiece 😊
Thanks Derek
Yup cubic mini is the greatest heat sorce for a well made compact Eddie.
A shoutout from Uganda (East Africa), you are an extraordinary man. This project clearly shows that nothing is impossible with resolve & will.
Great idea choosing styrofoam, being able to remove it for wiring and vent installation will help. The wood burner will be perfect ! It’ll look awesome in there and you can’t beat a cozy fire. Great job on the trailer, I look forward to all your video, can’t wait to see the finished product.
Thank you
@@DrenalinAdventures fire safety maybe an issue
A table saw works good on long thick pieces of foam. An electric carving knife (turkey carver) works great for most cuts
As usual brilliant thoughtfulness Scott on the whys n hows to your decisions n installation (of insulation ) in an articulate n clear way. Cheers
An electric carving knife zips easily and cleanly through any type of foam, so it should work on styrofoam, too. I cut memory foam to fit odd sizes and it does a great job.
Can't beat a woodstove for heat and ambiance, not to mention run cost of free firewood in the forest.👍
You should use Styrofoam underneath and use panels of aluminum to cover it. Then you can always access wiring by unscrewing air paneling.
If it were me, I'd be running some conduit in the walls so if you need to change out wires, like for example, for the tail lights, you can easily thread them through the conduit.
cutting foam works well with a hot wire cutter. repurpose a electric soldering gun with a wire installed in place of a soldering tip.
Use Pex tubing as conduit so you can replace wires if needed. Also think about the ability to change your turn light fixtures if the get broken or corroded
You will have to provide a fresh air vent to feed air into the trailer near the wood stove. You have built a very tight enclosed space and a wood stove (even a small one) needs air to function correctly.
I actually ordered the direct vent stove for that very reason 👍
i used a bread knife to cut my foam, worked great
Really like the wood burning stove idea. For backup, maybe one of those small Diesel heater’s would be better. Propane heaters will just add more moisture to the interior. Especially one so well built and sealed. They also make a propane unit that intakes and exhaust to outside so the warm air coming in does not have the moisture from propane. Think It is Propex.
Thanks, l am enjoying this series!
Glad you enjoy it!
Very inspiring video and channel. Video are very well done!
My questions is about the windows: are they double pane ? How did yoi work with the isolation around them ?
Good video I want a camper to pull with my jeep not quite as big but close I think
Looking good. Yeah, smart idea to insulate the floor. Looking forward to the next step. Busy time of year to spend on a camper though, but we'll be here when you get time to build, film, edit and load it.
Have you considered installing piping through for heated flooring?
Super
I would think about like kinda routing the insulation about quarter inch and running the wiring along that so the wires don't touch the skin of trailer
Before you cover the bottom with spray foam - consider running the wiring in conduit - just in case you need to repair a circuit.
muy cierto e importante..
😁👍
Enjoying your channel and cant wait to see finished trailer!
Awesome! Thank you!
YOUR WORK IS IMPRESSIVE, PRECISE, THOUGHT-OUT AND QUALITY ORIENTED.
WONDERFUL DISPLAY OF CRAFTSMANSHIP WE CAN TELL YOU MUST BE A TRADES PERSON(my guess) BECAUSE OF HOW YOU APPROACH STUFF.
ENJOYED THIS SERIES. YOU ARE THE NEW BENCHMARK TO BUILD YOUR OWN TRAILER. I BOUGHT ONE, USED.
THAT WAY NO ONE CAN COMPARE YOUR WORK TO MINE 😏😂 YOU’D WIN.
Thank you
I would love to have time for a project like this... Love watching these. Thanks for posting
Stumbled on your videos totally by chance and I'm liking what your doing. Will keep watching looking forward to the finished product. I wonder if a poly vapor barrier much like in a house wouldn't help the condensation in the walls ?
I would choose the same. Cheers.
Diesal heater work well
Great video on how to insulate. First video I’ve seen of yours. Very impressed! Can’t wait to watch the others & keep them coming. Be safe. 😎❤️🙏🏼
Looking good... great job Scott
Thanks Dennis
Very nice build what about the registration do you have to registered to transport Canada.
We cut with a serrated breadknife, just a slower sawsall.. Need to invent a hotknife with nichrome hairdryer wire....cuts like butter.
Now with diesel heaters that would be perfect to keep the trailer warm while your away
In my experience, that's nowhere near enough insulation. I'm disabled and homeless, I've been surviving in an antique, rotten, motor home for a long time now, it had two inches of foam insulation from the factory and that didn't do much, of course it had way too many windows. The first thing I did was insulate the windows as much as I could (I now only have the window on my door visible, but I have plastic on both sides of it), then as I could afford it, I bought 2 inch thick sheets of R-Max (polyisocyanurate foam with radiant barrier foil facing on both sides, much higher R value per inch than bead foam) and some 1/4" thick packing foam (for the flexibility, to provide a tight seal) and covered the entire wall where each window was, first with the 1/4" packing foam, then with the 2" R-Max. So now I have 4" thick foam walls and it's made a huge difference, but it still gets too cold in the winter and too hot in the summer and takes too much power (though not nearly as much as it used to).
I'm hoping to add another two inches of the dense blue foam on the entire outside, except I want to do a total of six more inches on the roof and as much as I can get into the underside. But that's looking like a pipe dream currently.
Perhaps I should mention that I live in the North West part of the U.S.A., just a few miles from the Canadian border, where it gets very cold in the winter and very hot in the summer.
Have you considered diesel heater instead of the Mr. Buddy? Condensation is an issue with propane heat.
Looks like quality workmanship, like 👍
Thanks 👍
did you get your widows from princess auto as well?
Far as heating i would just use propane heater and propane water heater. Always carry a generator, for TV, Computer, lighting, space heater, AC, Fans, and electric appliances, ect. and your BBQ Pit with ya. A Weber Grill is not only a grill, its a flat grill, pizza, bread, and as a oven as well! To smoke and bake with! I make excellent breads and pizza off my Weber grill! with Pizza pans and Bread pans
any reason you didn't look at a diesel heater?
How to deal with mold? Aluminum will sweat. Is wood pressure and chemically treated all around?
I think you doing a great job man nice discovery about the styrofoam and the wall of the aluminum that's a good catch I seen another guy making one almost the same as you and he did the same thing he glued his styrofoam to the aluminum but it's moving along fine can't wait to see the next step thanks for sharing buddy 👍✌️😁
I'm really enjoying this. Your attention to detail and why and how's are inspiring.
I purchased a similar trailer a few years ago. And have watched many UA-cam videos.
Not inspiring enough.
With that said. My going to fallow your plan.
Don't know about the floor plan yet.
I'll decide that after I see your build.
Thanks im sure im not the only one that's been thinking about it.
Awesome, thank you!
Wondering if an electric carving knife would do the cutting job.
Great job so far!
Very Very good 👍 thank you. You are best 👌
what if you used some sort of wood pellet feed system to keep the wood stove fed all night so you don't have to get up every hour or so to feed it?
Would a Turkey carving knife work on that?
I would juse a 12v diesel air heater (about $140 on amazon) nice dry air, the propane heater makes a lot of condensation and Co2
Liking the trailer build, but have you look at the 12v Diesel heaters for heat source?
I have.
Nice work so far!
Thank you! Cheers!
Another idea for heat rocket stove mass heater
Foam is also HIGHLY flammable. So be very careful with flames.
I ran across you on Joe’s channel, the camping trip you and him had together, and found your channel through the link he put up. This is interesting stuff. Thanks. Also enjoyed your winter camping content. Thoroughly enjoyable. Liked and subbed.
Awesome! Thank you!
should've used a table saw or a straight edge to make those cuts super tight.
Where can I find these styrofoam panels?
TUC tape all the seams
My mr buddy heater regular exploded and caught on fire. Maybe shouldn’t use it when not there
Remember i told ya about the aluminum floor sweating ? > THERE YOUR PROOF ! 6:28
You need to put a vapor barrier on the interior before applying a wall finish...!!!
I notice in one of the comments: Ants love foam, be careful. Of course is seeing, that maybe sealing each piece in some form of plastic, but that could become a future hazard and spraying ant spray would be health, possible hazard. So what is your opinion on how to keep the creatures out and maybe away, for their own safety? Lol. Well either one's soul is a murder or not. Yes?
After you score it, just break it over your knee. That EPS is designed to fracture clean.
Do you know You should not use a little buddy heater and air tight spaces.
Love the trailer and the channel!
What about interior wiring and plumbing?
Will you be working on future videos?
Yes, working on it now.
Parabéns Scott
Ótimo trabalho. ( BRASIL)🇧🇷🇧🇷
Are you concerned about the moisture the Buddy heater produces? Great job so far. Looking forward to the first trip.
Not at all
a bread knife may have worked.
Great video Scott. Trailer looks excellent. When will you be inviting Chevy Chase?
Not sure yet :)
Let's roll!
Trailer looks super! I’d go with wiring in conduit as well.. Are u taping the joints and vapour barriering the walls and roof? Wood stove makes best choice! 👍 Waiting for camping videos this winter! Nice job. B Deacon Manitoba Canada 🇨🇦
How much has this built cost you?
I used a drywall saw with a handle.like you cutout drywall outlets with on installed drywall.
I also have that same stove in my trailer. For wood I collect banna boxes. I end up burning 4x4 cut 6 inch they stack neat and tight in the boxes. I have when away from propane as a heat . As it burns it making water vapor on the inside . The wood heat takes it away but not in the far corners from the stove. I am going to a Chinese diesel heater . I had one in a big truck great heat didn't like the clicking noise . Wood heat great choose I even heat can of food up on mine. Pork beans.
Have you talked to your insurance company about coverage? I would think for a custom build there may be issues for them... Will they cover? What kind of rate did they come up with ?