Hi, Dave. First of all, hello from Brazil and congrats for the channel and the DMT app. I signed up and have been learning a lot. I have a 08 GSXR 1000 and have just serviced both my forks and shock with a RaceTech representative / specialist with RaceTech valves, but keepping the same springs. SAG was adjusted on both ends: 32mm front (4 lines on pre load bolt showing) and 25mm rear, if I'm not wrong. Front rebound was set on 9 out and compression on 13 out of fully closed. This weekend I did 3 track days at the same track and started playing with front end settings. Placed a zip tie and it was bottoming. Closed two lines on pre-load. It got better, but kept bottoming as my lap times was decreasing as well. Then closed two clicks on compression. Felt the front more stable, but more stiff and "lazy" to turn. In the end of the last day, I had closed a total of 5 clicks on compression and fully closed the pre-load. Bike is better, but I can't say with confidence if it was only due to the suspension changes or due to my ability / confidence. I'm in doubt if I shoul change my front springs or keep closing the compression damping till it stops bottoming, maintaining at leats 10% of travel remaining, as you advised. I'm 88kg fully equiped and my springs are 0.97kg/mm (I'm not sure). Will be really glad if you could reply this matter and could analize these videos of the suspensions working on track front - ua-cam.com/video/cR5hUaQ4lBk/v-deo.html rear - ua-cam.com/video/SWnQhtRUH18/v-deo.html Thanks in advance!!
Thanks for the email and kind words Thiago. I'm glad you are learning a lot and helping yourself to dial in your bike to your needs. If you are in the last 25% of preload towards maximum, it is time to change to stiffer springs. Your ability is better than the forks can cope with, so well done in that regard. You do not mention high speed compression at all - where is it set? You should have it at 2 turns from maximum for the forks and 3 turns from maximum for the shock. How much fork is above the upper triple clamp? You can send the answers to dave@davemosstuning.com
Forks: if you are in the last 30% of preload towards maximum when setting sag, then you go to the next rate eg: .90 to .95. If you max spring preload and you are still too soft, make 2 jumps eg: .90 to 1.0. The same applies to rear shock in regards to static sag. If you loose all static sag move up a rate, if you are way too big on sag numbers with no static sag move up 2 rates.
Watching so many of your videos has got me wondering about something: I see channels that review new bikes on track in which different people hop on and off the bikes and rip around the track then give their take on the bike... Assuming each person does not individually adjust the bike's suspension before they take it out, isn't that dangerous to be riding a bike hard like that around a track without first setting it up for the rider?
Great question! A test has to have a constant so stock showroom settings is the constant. Normally test riders are seasoned at this process and know when enough is enough in regards to fatigue, handling issues, ergonomics pain and grip levels. I have in the past been at such events and have set the bike up for each test rider so they CAN get the best out of the bike to maximize their experience.
I have a question, I have a 2008 suzuki sv650s with 60 000km(38 000miles) o the clock and i bought it used, so to my knowledge the front forks havent been changed since 2008 nor has the oil and the forks are definitely bottoming out, should i get new forks or just new fork oil?
Ryan - take the forks apart and put the tubes in a lathe and spin them to see if they wobble. Then feel the forks to see if they are still round. You will be replacing upper and lower bushings, oil and dust seal, washer and clip as well as copper washer under the bolt that hold the damping rod in place.
Dave Moss Tuning i would watch the video but it is not available in my country and i would pay to watch your videos as it helps me alot, but like i said its not available in South Africa which is a bummer :(
All the PPV videos make it to the DM Tuning App for Apple and Android devices 4-6 weeks after being published here. That gets you to the content you want :) feelthetrack.com/mobile-apps/
@@catalystreactionsbw thank you dave, but the dual rate spring is too soft for my weight and i experince bottoming out, i love cornering and speed should i get the linear spring with the right spring rate base on my weight?
@@kenochokidonutchollo8185 Check static sag to make sure you haver that number correct. It should be 15-20mm. Linear makes sense given your application but the challenge is finding the right rate. This is not a bike I know at all so I would guess at an .80 rate.
I'm running springs for people 20-30 lbs heavier than me and they are already preloaded to maximum. How can that be possible? I'm I supposed to go even higher?
Hi, Dave. First of all, hello from Brazil and congrats for the channel and the DMT app. I signed up and have been learning a lot. I have a 08 GSXR 1000 and have just serviced both my forks and shock with a RaceTech representative / specialist with RaceTech valves, but keepping the same springs. SAG was adjusted on both ends: 32mm front (4 lines on pre load bolt showing) and 25mm rear, if I'm not wrong. Front rebound was set on 9 out and compression on 13 out of fully closed. This weekend I did 3 track days at the same track and started playing with front end settings. Placed a zip tie and it was bottoming. Closed two lines on pre-load. It got better, but kept bottoming as my lap times was decreasing as well. Then closed two clicks on compression. Felt the front more stable, but more stiff and "lazy" to turn. In the end of the last day, I had closed a total of 5 clicks on compression and fully closed the pre-load. Bike is better, but I can't say with confidence if it was only due to the suspension changes or due to my ability / confidence. I'm in doubt if I shoul change my front springs or keep closing the compression damping till it stops bottoming, maintaining at leats 10% of travel remaining, as you advised. I'm 88kg fully equiped and my springs are 0.97kg/mm (I'm not sure).
Will be really glad if you could reply this matter and could analize these videos of the suspensions working on track
front - ua-cam.com/video/cR5hUaQ4lBk/v-deo.html
rear - ua-cam.com/video/SWnQhtRUH18/v-deo.html
Thanks in advance!!
Thanks for the email and kind words Thiago. I'm glad you are learning a lot and helping yourself to dial in your bike to your needs. If you are in the last 25% of preload towards maximum, it is time to change to stiffer springs. Your ability is better than the forks can cope with, so well done in that regard. You do not mention high speed compression at all - where is it set? You should have it at 2 turns from maximum for the forks and 3 turns from maximum for the shock. How much fork is above the upper triple clamp? You can send the answers to dave@davemosstuning.com
Hi Dave. Any particular way to tell what spring rate you should be going to? Say if it's a big jump and not just up to the next stiffest option
Forks: if you are in the last 30% of preload towards maximum when setting sag, then you go to the next rate eg: .90 to .95. If you max spring preload and you are still too soft, make 2 jumps eg: .90 to 1.0. The same applies to rear shock in regards to static sag. If you loose all static sag move up a rate, if you are way too big on sag numbers with no static sag move up 2 rates.
Thanks Dave
Watching so many of your videos has got me wondering about something: I see channels that review new bikes on track in which different people hop on and off the bikes and rip around the track then give their take on the bike... Assuming each person does not individually adjust the bike's suspension before they take it out, isn't that dangerous to be riding a bike hard like that around a track without first setting it up for the rider?
Great question! A test has to have a constant so stock showroom settings is the constant. Normally test riders are seasoned at this process and know when enough is enough in regards to fatigue, handling issues, ergonomics pain and grip levels. I have in the past been at such events and have set the bike up for each test rider so they CAN get the best out of the bike to maximize their experience.
I have a question, I have a 2008 suzuki sv650s with 60 000km(38 000miles) o the clock and i bought it used, so to my knowledge the front forks havent been changed since 2008 nor has the oil and the forks are definitely bottoming out, should i get new forks or just new fork oil?
Ryan - take the forks apart and put the tubes in a lathe and spin them to see if they wobble. Then feel the forks to see if they are still round. You will be replacing upper and lower bushings, oil and dust seal, washer and clip as well as copper washer under the bolt that hold the damping rod in place.
Dave Williams, editor, replying here. This is our fork service video for the SV650 and S. ua-cam.com/video/czum7hQkf0U/v-deo.html
Dave Moss Tuning i would watch the video but it is not available in my country and i would pay to watch your videos as it helps me alot, but like i said its not available in South Africa which is a bummer :(
All the PPV videos make it to the DM Tuning App for Apple and Android devices 4-6 weeks after being published here. That gets you to the content you want :) feelthetrack.com/mobile-apps/
is it ok to have 9.5nm front spring rate and 9.0 nm rear spring rate (both ohlins springs)?
Yes. the stiffer spring always goes in the right leg. 90/95 or 85/90 is okay. Never go 10/90
Dave Moss Tuning i meant in the forks 9,5 and in the rear shock 9,0, is that right?
Which one is better should i get linear spring or dual rate spring? I have yamaha aerox 155 version 2
Dual rate spring will be much better for the street and poor road conditions.
@@catalystreactionsbw thank you dave, but the dual rate spring is too soft for my weight and i experince bottoming out, i love cornering and speed should i get the linear spring with the right spring rate base on my weight?
@@kenochokidonutchollo8185 Check static sag to make sure you haver that number correct. It should be 15-20mm. Linear makes sense given your application but the challenge is finding the right rate. This is not a bike I know at all so I would guess at an .80 rate.
@@catalystreactionsbw thank you dave
I'm running springs for people 20-30 lbs heavier than me and they are already preloaded to maximum. How can that be possible? I'm I supposed to go even higher?
There's math involved for the springs called installed preload: ua-cam.com/video/ICK_2tX9_Qg/v-deo.html
Your ability can often far exceed the spring rate for your weight, so that is something to seriously look at as well.
Thanks Dave, my riding has improved 100% due to your positive knowledge transfer. I hope your efforts on these videos are returned to you.