We will have all this technology available on our WORX site. It will not be one comprehensive kit, but you will be able to buy each part. For those that want to go the entire distance, the price tag will be steep but they will be able to get everything from one place. Some guys that want to pick and choose what they want to put in their engine will be able to do that without committing to the entire package. We cannot sell some of these parts yet because we haven't done enough testing to show success. This is a big experiment, but its results will fuel advancement in our WORX program, and special parts availability.
I have heard guys say that super smooth or mirror smooth finish on the intake side can cause gas to cling to the surface or a little bit of "roughness" creates a bit of turbulence to keep the gas from falling out and creating a better homogenous mixture of air and gas. what do you think?
That theory has been proven correct but in motor building you sometimes have to make compromises. We are basically going on motor building experience with proven results. There is a tradeoff between reshaping/enlarging in certain areas, and having the textured cast surface. We do our best not to smooth the surface too much using appropriate grit size tools, but the inevitable result is that we do end up with a slightly smoother surface than the casting. Like I said, there is a tradeoff, but there are more benefits than drawbacks. If I had a 5 axis mill I would put in dimples, but that will just have to wait until we see what we've got so far.
Very nice. The work done is slowly shaping up, transforming the R3 into a true 'superbike'. Love that slipper clutch setup. Can't wait for the next episode.
my dad bought a CB 350 in 79 brand new. when i rebuilt it in 1986 in shop class so i could ride it back and forth to school. i changed the cam. match everything up. shaved the head down alil. and man that made the bike alot more peppy let me tell u.
We will not be increasing the redline yet in this version of the motor so just fresh OEM springs are installed. After we get some experience with the current setup the plan is to figure out how to tune this motor for higher RPM power, and change out some components to support the higher RPM operation. The stock configuration of the motor falls on its face after 11,000RPM. Many things will have to be changed to make higher RPMs worth the trouble. The entire intake system will have to be re-engineered for different flow and acoustics, different cam timing will have to be implemented, and an off the shelf aftermarket exhaust will not do much for this purpose so we will have to design our own.
Awesome video guys. Lots of information and explanation helps me understand what it takes to make a race bike. I have a CBR300R and I would love to upgrade its performance.
Binging this! So, without a stator, how long can the bike run before you run the voltage below what's needed in the coil to make it go bang? You're running the coil and ECU, right? Nothing else?
Hope he's raced 2 stroke before or that slipper clutch might take him by surprise at first if he is used to 4t engine braking particularly high CR. I'd be warning him that throwing down gears into the corner inst going to help slow him down like it used to.
Those are good points you make. Our rider races bigger bikes typically and he has a slipper clutch on one of those bikes. The transition should be pretty seamless.
Worried about rod stretch,throw titanium rods in there.Carrillos stretch and are often heavier than stock rods,good thing about Carrillos is they are pinned and have ARP bolts and can be re-bushed,and you can re-use the bolts multiple times.Carrillo told me 10x,but I checked bolt stretch and replaced after 6th motor freshining.Throw some APE TI retainers in there and depending on added lift you may want to shim them springs.
Have rod failures been an issue with these motors when built? Those upgraded rods add a LOT of mass/inertia. Is it needed? Yamaha engineers are pretty good. I would be very surprised if the stock rods did not have enough safety margin to handle ANY HP increases you could possibly squeeze out of the motor. Have you done the rod stretch, BMEP and fluid film stiffness math to determine these are really required? I do like the slipper clutch, especially if you are upping the compression....
We did not flow test the head. We are basically going on motor building experience with proven results. There is a tradeoff between reshaping/enlarging in certain areas, and having the textured cast surface. We do our best not to smooth the surface too much using appropriate grit size tools, but the inevitable result is that we do end up with a slightly smoother surface than the casting. Like I said, there is a tradeoff, but there are more benefits than drawbacks. If I had a 5 axis mill I would put in dimples, but that will just have to wait until we see what we've got so far.
The head and block are wider on the 7, so the crank pins are offset farther than on the 3. Besides, the entire motor block of the R3 is not prepared for loads that high, and the lubrication system and cooling on the R3 would not support the extra heat generated by displacement that large. You are better off swapping the 7 motor into an R3 frame along with electronics, cooling, etc. I would like to see that executed well.
There should be a cooling circuit diagram in the service manual. I don't know what bypass hose you are looking for. The thermostat shuts off flow, it does not redirect it
@@TSTindustries so there is no coolant flow before thermostat open? I havent the manual book... i bought the bike from a guy... its mt25 bike have the same engine as r3 but diffrent piston size..
Can we get a list of the components used in your build? Who performed your head work? Just found your site, really enjoy the information. I'm an old drag racer and interested in small displacement engines now. Thanks
Wow I wish I lived on the States I be bringing my ninja 400 and yamaha R15 to you guys As for the Conrods the Carillo rods are awesome use to run them in my vintage Norton 750 race bike Great video guys
13.2 was the highest we played with. We used pump 93 but it proved to be unrliable. Then we tried Apex but paying that much money for fuel we figured we should be getting better results. We finally settled on U4 and that has been great. One day when I feel like I have time to burrn and rebuilding the motor again is something I want to do I will tune the bike on MR12 and send it. See how long it runs before we nuke it.
Ninja 300 has been discontinued. The 400 is its successor. We already have one of those bikes so this type of build is just months away. After we finish the R3 project we will do another show on the Ninja 400 topic.
While you cannot transform OEM components to work as a true slipper clutch, the components in the kit we installed use some OEM parts. The basket and plates are all OEM.
Bom di sou do brasil..corro de r3 peguei ela agorra ..corria de ninja 300 sinto fauta dessa embreagem deslizante .onde comprou se poder me passar agradeço
We configured subsequent engines that improved longevity with every iteration. This type of build is not something that you want as a kit though. The installation requires a very experienced tech and the maintenance schedule is very rigorous.
Wow! This motor looks very similar to my super tenere 1200 motor. Question I have, my OEM timing chain tensioner (oil pressure/spring) type started rattling on startup. Yamaha “updated” the tensioner to correct this issue. Meanwhile I purchased Graves manual tensioner. What is Your way to adjust proper tension on them? Also down the road do I wait for the “startup rattle” to adjust or there is a better way? Thx!
I found a pretty good video that I agree with. Here it is ua-cam.com/video/-Gzid9FbzQc/v-deo.html . It's on a different bike but the concept is the same. We typically adjust every time the motor is out of the bike but that is not practical for most guys out there. I would suggest that you pay attention to the sound the motor is making whenever you ride it. When you notice the rattle, readjust. It won't be for a while unless your bike is just in the break in phase and the chain hasn't gotten its initial stretch yet.
There is a tradeoff between reshaping/enlarging in certain areas, and having a textured cast surface. We do our best not to smooth the surface too much using appropriate grit size tools, but the inevitable result is that we do end up with a slightly smoother surface than the casting. Like I said, there is a tradeoff, but there are more benefits than drawbacks. If I had a 5 axis mill I would put in dimples, but that will just have to wait until we see what we've got so far.
We did not. We use 415 drive components. They are much lighter than the 520 setup that comes on the Ninja and R3 from their manufacturers. Our drive components are Spears/DID. We do sell them on our website.
@@specforged5651 yeah this engine went kablammo not too long after being put in the bike. I also get rubbed the wrong way. especially. ohh its a stage 1. maybeeee 1.5... nahh its a 1.0 you can call it what you want.... no its your build which one is it lol
you gotta remember that not everyone's an expert at these stuff. it's like how I can easily discuss the most effective fuel atomization method with some guy, yet some other guy might not even understand why it's necessary to balance a rotating assembly.
John is actually a very humble individual. He is a former teacher from a motorcycle institute, and speaks in a way he used to teach his classes. Besides that, with a camera lens puts more pressure on the presenter, and some people who aren't used to that will sound monotone. Give him some time. We will get him used to the flow and he will start sounding more natural.
I actually quite like this guy. He does a great job explaining technical details. Not everyone who loves motorcycles knows intricacies of engine design.
You are correct. John had a little stumble with explanation in this video. Our cams do not extend the duration, they are just higher lift. After this test we will be trying out some high lift / longer duration grinds.
sometime,... i think, why the factory build an engine with standard function? if you can make race function... but everything is the same, engine can grow up by upgrade and tunning.
Correct. It's called total loss system. We have tested our bike with this setup to run three 20 minute sessions with three starts, and that is not charging in between. When using the lithium batteries we use, and charging in between sessions, there is no need for battery hot swaps. This setup is only conducive for track use. We do not recommend doing this for the street.
@5.58 'Valve lift' is not holding the valve open longer. That's valve duration. Valve lift is valve lift - how much it lifts - amplitude if you like. I think you should clear that up so people don't go getting themselves more valve lift and mashing valves to pistons.
John knows the difference between lift and duration. The explanation got away from him a bit in the moment. I am sure that anyone that is doing this kind of work to their motor already knows the difference, especially if they are dictating the lobe design.
Don't worry. We bought the first 400 that was delivered to our area in early March. Next year's SuperBike series will be focusing on us building that bike.
Nice work guys but it's sad to see Japanese manufacturers making these shitty engine's. They mastered 250cc 4 cylinder marvels in 1980's which were revving up to 18000 RPM in stock form with carbs. You guys should build up a 4 cylinder 250 and then compare these so called Morden bike's.
not that they do shitty engines. they just have to conform to standards, rules and laws.. then balance all of that with the company's financials and make sure they are still making money at the end of the day. They can do this things for sure (i.e. MotoGP, SBK, etc), it's just not for everybody.
KimmyR3 but don't you think they are only developing the litre class. Every body cannot afford a litre class bike and these 300cc bike's are not exactly cheap.
yeah well think about how much a damn 300 would cost if it had 4 cylinders it would cost a lot more a 1992 CBR 250RR cost around the price of a modern day R3 so it woulda cost ALOT more then an R3 if they were sold new today
they do, but not to this extent I presume. I also have an R3, and as much as I want these companies to give me the best, I also have to be realistic. Heck, we don't even have the ABS version here in the Philippines. lol. The most (i think..) we can hope for is for the little techs to trickle down to their "budget" bikes. Techs like quickshifters, adjustable forks and shocks, better electronics, brakes, etc. Or maybe making the current parts cheaper, making the bike as a whole cheaper. That would also be good. :)
KimmyR3 I understand your position. I am from India and I have KTM RC 390 with powertronic, here r3 is pretty expensive. I guess you are more lucky coz if you try I think you might get your hands on Yamaha FZR250 the 4 cylinder beauty.
“Valve lift” isn’t how LONG you hold the valve open...it’s the max measurement it WILL open. “Duration” is how long it will stay at that open or certain configuration. I’m sure you know that (well maybe you don’t, wouldn’t be surprised with the patronizing attitude you have towards your explanations and viewers) and people screw up their terms all the time (I do it plenty myself), but for people who don’t know and are watching these videos to actually try and educate themselves on these things, they might appreciate the proper terms because they are very different even though we are talking about the same actual parts. Not trying to be a dick or know it all by any means because I don’t, but some might appreciate that.
I am hardcore fan for yamaha racing mechins.. i ma R3 woner in india my bike top speed only 196 kph only I am not satisfied my bike 210 kph is possible dudes pleas help me guys
TSTindustries too bad☹️ I just have GSXR150, and want to see how you build 1 cylinder faster like moto3 build. i'm interesting how TST build the R3(In my country was R25). Keep it up👌😁
![Making Yamaha R3 Race Components [Superbike Build Series Ep.8]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/fJiYDY4Nkeg/mqdefault.jpg)
![Making Yamaha R3 Race Components [Superbike Build Series Ep.8]](/img/tr.png)
![How much HP does a Yamaha R3 Superbike make? [Superbike Build Series Ep.11]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QJkx9DkjCQU/mqdefault.jpg)
![Yamaha R3 Superbike vs "Real Superbikes" [Superbike Build Series Ep.15]](/img/n.gif)
LOL, Just realized you sound like Justin Hammer from Ironman 2 explaining things, love it lol.
This guy gives a great presentation
I absolutely love this series you guys put up. Soo informative and entertaining. You guys are the reason I'm buying an r3.
You better also do some insane things with the ninja 400😏
As a motorcycle noob, this video is wonderful 👍
when you guys are done you should make a kit that comes with everything to soup up the r3, I would buy it
We will have all this technology available on our WORX site. It will not be one comprehensive kit, but you will be able to buy each part. For those that want to go the entire distance, the price tag will be steep but they will be able to get everything from one place. Some guys that want to pick and choose what they want to put in their engine will be able to do that without committing to the entire package. We cannot sell some of these parts yet because we haven't done enough testing to show success. This is a big experiment, but its results will fuel advancement in our WORX program, and special parts availability.
just look for a race-ECU
Nice job man that motor is going to sing!...
one of the most enjoyable engine build videos i have seen in awhile.
Awesome. Glad you enjoyed it.
The rods expand with heat they don't stretch.
hmmm, I guess you have never heard of Isaac Newton
I have heard guys say that super smooth or mirror smooth finish on the intake side can cause gas to cling to the surface or a little bit of "roughness" creates a bit of turbulence to keep the gas from falling out and creating a better homogenous mixture of air and gas. what do you think?
That theory has been proven correct but in motor building you sometimes have to make compromises. We are basically going on motor building experience with proven results. There is a tradeoff between reshaping/enlarging in certain areas, and having the textured cast surface. We do our best not to smooth the surface too much using appropriate grit size tools, but the inevitable result is that we do end up with a slightly smoother surface than the casting. Like I said, there is a tradeoff, but there are more benefits than drawbacks. If I had a 5 axis mill I would put in dimples, but that will just have to wait until we see what we've got so far.
I could watch your vids on this build all day..its like being at school..love it..learning a lot i am
Glad you enjoy it!
We have no one doing this in England..ime especially interested in what your doing with the mt03..good work.
This guy could make his own bumblebee.
Very nice. The work done is slowly shaping up, transforming the R3 into a true 'superbike'. Love that slipper clutch setup. Can't wait for the next episode.
Sharing machine knowledge I really like because I also pengamina Yamaha R25 or R3 is the same, thank you, friend
You are welcome
Nice. More powah!!!
my dad bought a CB 350 in 79 brand new. when i rebuilt it in 1986 in shop class so i could ride it back and forth to school. i changed the cam. match everything up. shaved the head down alil. and man that made the bike alot more peppy let me tell u.
Sounds like a fun project for sure. Also a good way to find out that these little changes on a small motor really do make a difference.
Are you changing anything with the valve springs? Will you share dyno results when the motor is assembled?
We will not be increasing the redline yet in this version of the motor so just fresh OEM springs are installed. After we get some experience with the current setup the plan is to figure out how to tune this motor for higher RPM power, and change out some components to support the higher RPM operation. The stock configuration of the motor falls on its face after 11,000RPM. Many things will have to be changed to make higher RPMs worth the trouble. The entire intake system will have to be re-engineered for different flow and acoustics, different cam timing will have to be implemented, and an off the shelf aftermarket exhaust will not do much for this purpose so we will have to design our own.
Great info. These engine episode's of this build series are the best
Sorry to inform you that this will liley be the last one before we start the next season with the Ninja 400.
TSTindustries if you guys show engine videos like these for the 400 that would be cool!
Awesome video guys. Lots of information and explanation helps me understand what it takes to make a race bike. I have a CBR300R and I would love to upgrade its performance.
Sell it and buy a R3
I love this guy.
Binging this! So, without a stator, how long can the bike run before you run the voltage below what's needed in the coil to make it go bang? You're running the coil and ECU, right? Nothing else?
Never mind - 2m 40s on Episode 9 - found it :-)
fuel pump too. With the larger lithium battery we were running times of 27-30 minutes before voltage got unuasable
im getting jealous of all these awesome engine mods !
Don't be jealous. Get the same parts we use ordered up and your local engine builder to crack out one of these SB motors for you.
Wish you nothing but the BEST dude as mechanic and rider I appreciate your non BS talking
I appreciate that
Hope he's raced 2 stroke before or that slipper clutch might take him by surprise at first if he is used to 4t engine braking particularly high CR.
I'd be warning him that throwing down gears into the corner inst going to help slow him down like it used to.
Those are good points you make. Our rider races bigger bikes typically and he has a slipper clutch on one of those bikes. The transition should be pretty seamless.
He'll be right then.
Great video series guys - we are racing an R3 here in New Zealand - great to see a well built machine.
Worried about rod stretch,throw titanium rods in there.Carrillos stretch and are often heavier than stock rods,good thing about Carrillos is they are pinned and have ARP bolts and can be re-bushed,and you can re-use the bolts multiple times.Carrillo told me 10x,but I checked bolt stretch and replaced after 6th motor freshining.Throw some APE TI retainers in there and depending on added lift you may want to shim them springs.
nice video, another subscriber
where can we buy that racing camshaft assembly? @13:25
I may want to part with the ones we used in this engine as we have moved on to use different cam profiles in our R3 builds.
Have rod failures been an issue with these motors when built? Those upgraded rods add a LOT of mass/inertia. Is it needed? Yamaha engineers are pretty good. I would be very surprised if the stock rods did not have enough safety margin to handle ANY HP increases you could possibly squeeze out of the motor. Have you done the rod stretch, BMEP and fluid film stiffness math to determine these are really required? I do like the slipper clutch, especially if you are upping the compression....
Holy Shit you guys went to town with this thing.
Yea, a little bit ;) At this point the bike is at 275 pounds race wet, and 53 horse
I love your video's, thank you :)
Did you flow test that head before and after porting? Wouldn't a rougher intake port tumble and mix the charge better?
We did not flow test the head. We are basically going on motor building experience with proven results. There is a tradeoff between reshaping/enlarging in certain areas, and having the textured cast surface. We do our best not to smooth the surface too much using appropriate grit size tools, but the inevitable result is that we do end up with a slightly smoother surface than the casting. Like I said, there is a tradeoff, but there are more benefits than drawbacks. If I had a 5 axis mill I would put in dimples, but that will just have to wait until we see what we've got so far.
+TSTindustries ...Subscribed. Thanks, This will be interesting.
Hey there,, I just wanna ask 1 question, can or not R3 convert cylinder head and cylinder block MT07? PNP or need small modifications?
The head and block are wider on the 7, so the crank pins are offset farther than on the 3. Besides, the entire motor block of the R3 is not prepared for loads that high, and the lubrication system and cooling on the R3 would not support the extra heat generated by displacement that large. You are better off swapping the 7 motor into an R3 frame along with electronics, cooling, etc. I would like to see that executed well.
Does TST Ind have engine building services?
No, not at this time.
Please....Can you explain cooling system in yamaha r3 engine.... how coolant circulate... i cant find where is the bypass hose..
There should be a cooling circuit diagram in the service manual. I don't know what bypass hose you are looking for. The thermostat shuts off flow, it does not redirect it
@@TSTindustries so there is no coolant flow before thermostat open?
I havent the manual book... i bought the bike from a guy... its mt25 bike have the same engine as r3 but diffrent piston size..
Can we get a list of the components used in your build?
Who performed your head work? Just found your site, really enjoy the information. I'm an old drag racer and interested in small displacement engines now. Thanks
Does tst sell a built street version of their engines
Built motors are not approved for street use so we can't do that.
Wow I wish I lived on the States I be bringing my ninja 400 and yamaha R15 to you guys
As for the Conrods the Carillo rods are awesome use to run them in my vintage Norton 750 race bike
Great video guys
how high did you go with the compression ratio for this build and wich fuel do you intendt to use?
13.2 was the highest we played with. We used pump 93 but it proved to be unrliable. Then we tried Apex but paying that much money for fuel we figured we should be getting better results. We finally settled on U4 and that has been great. One day when I feel like I have time to burrn and rebuilding the motor again is something I want to do I will tune the bike on MR12 and send it. See how long it runs before we nuke it.
Hope you work on something for the Ninja 300.
Ninja 300 has been discontinued. The 400 is its successor. We already have one of those bikes so this type of build is just months away. After we finish the R3 project we will do another show on the Ninja 400 topic.
I'm just wondering if you could replace a traditional clutch into a slipper clutch?
While you cannot transform OEM components to work as a true slipper clutch, the components in the kit we installed use some OEM parts. The basket and plates are all OEM.
Bom di sou do brasil..corro de r3 peguei ela agorra ..corria de ninja 300 sinto fauta dessa embreagem deslizante .onde comprou se poder me passar agradeço
Its 3 yo video . Is theres a kit for r3 upgrade ?
We configured subsequent engines that improved longevity with every iteration. This type of build is not something that you want as a kit though. The installation requires a very experienced tech and the maintenance schedule is very rigorous.
Wow! This motor looks very similar to my super tenere 1200 motor. Question I have, my OEM timing chain tensioner (oil pressure/spring) type started rattling on startup. Yamaha “updated” the tensioner to correct this issue. Meanwhile I purchased Graves manual tensioner. What is Your way to adjust proper tension on them? Also down the road do I wait for the “startup rattle” to adjust or there is a better way? Thx!
I found a pretty good video that I agree with. Here it is ua-cam.com/video/-Gzid9FbzQc/v-deo.html . It's on a different bike but the concept is the same. We typically adjust every time the motor is out of the bike but that is not practical for most guys out there. I would suggest that you pay attention to the sound the motor is making whenever you ride it. When you notice the rattle, readjust. It won't be for a while unless your bike is just in the break in phase and the chain hasn't gotten its initial stretch yet.
hello. i want to upgrade the orange on my motorcycle R3. do you have it?
I don't understand what you are asking for?
Bom dia! Esse comandos de válvulas são de competição? São maiores que o original
Valves and bore size is OEM on this motor. The valve seats have been modified and the head has been ported.
"Mark Wahlberg" always a cool guy...Do you guys do engine/transmission builds for customers?
Our engine building service is very exclusive. We will offer this service to individuals that race and have a big trackday footprint.
TSTindustries ok
the intake port has to stay ruff so there is more contact suface for the fuel to evaporate
There are many schools of thought on this
TSTindustries i just say what a fromer bike mecanic with 15 years of race track and speedway experience thought me at night school
What are the front and rear sprocket sizes ?
Currently 18/52 but we change the. For different tracks
What oil did you run in this engine on the track?
gear oil 75w-90
will this whole kit be available for purchase ?
We have to test everything for some time. There is no telling if it will go braaaap, or booom!
Holding the valve open longer is called duration not valve lift. If it is lifted higher also it's called more lift and duration.
Thank you. Isn't it very obvious that he was pretty nervous and flubbed a word?
intake works better when its not "smooth" btw
There is a tradeoff between reshaping/enlarging in certain areas, and having a textured cast surface. We do our best not to smooth the surface too much using appropriate grit size tools, but the inevitable result is that we do end up with a slightly smoother surface than the casting. Like I said, there is a tradeoff, but there are more benefits than drawbacks. If I had a 5 axis mill I would put in dimples, but that will just have to wait until we see what we've got so far.
TSTindustries cnc ports.
Lift vs duration.
lift is how much it's open, duration is how long it stays open
Yes, you get it.
how about Big Bore Kit 350cc or higher?
See that would place us out of the CC category we were racing this machine in.
Did you use Ninja 300 rear sprocket? Because I did..
We did not. We use 415 drive components. They are much lighter than the 520 setup that comes on the Ninja and R3 from their manufacturers. Our drive components are Spears/DID. We do sell them on our website.
Myxamatosis playing?
12 000 times going up and down? Isnt it more like 12 000 : 4 cilinders is 3 000 times? (assuming its a 4 cilinder motor)?
2 cylinder, four stroke. Each revolution of the crankshaft moves each piston up and down.
assuming, you better get back to sewing
I feel like the commentary in this video is sort of patronising, almost as if it's aimed at 5 year olds watching Sesame Street...
He goes to say 'why' they do something, then say go do your research, its like they're giving us homework 😂 come on, we are adults here to learn.
Exactly, and also uses improper terms and explanations. Pretty annoying actually.
@@specforged5651 yeah this engine went kablammo not too long after being put in the bike.
I also get rubbed the wrong way. especially. ohh its a stage 1. maybeeee 1.5... nahh its a 1.0 you can call it what you want....
no its your build which one is it lol
you gotta remember that not everyone's an expert at these stuff. it's like how I can easily discuss the most effective fuel atomization method with some guy, yet some other guy might not even understand why it's necessary to balance a rotating assembly.
Steel rods are nice but you should look at ALUMINUM rods they would probably suit your requirements better and weigh 33% less for the same strength.
Aluminum stretches more than we would like.
if my 1983 2 stroke 115cc yamaha had all these upgrades.. she'd make 30hp!
Yea, probably. Two strokes got to such high RPMs that it was pretty reasonable to squeeze out 30hp out of very small displacements.
Omg this guys monotone is horrible,I couldn't finish.He talks to you like everyone is below him.
John is actually a very humble individual. He is a former teacher from a motorcycle institute, and speaks in a way he used to teach his classes. Besides that, with a camera lens puts more pressure on the presenter, and some people who aren't used to that will sound monotone. Give him some time. We will get him used to the flow and he will start sounding more natural.
I actually quite like this guy. He does a great job explaining technical details. Not everyone who loves motorcycles knows intricacies of engine design.
I think you mean Duration, and not Lift when it comes to how long the valve stays open....
You are correct. John had a little stumble with explanation in this video. Our cams do not extend the duration, they are just higher lift. After this test we will be trying out some high lift / longer duration grinds.
Top
sometime,... i think, why the factory build an engine with standard function? if you can make race function... but everything is the same, engine can grow up by upgrade and tunning.
Where to avail the slipper clutch
@@wilsonlabuguen5054 yoyodyne website
Sounds like you described more duration.
So the engine will only run til the battery dies?
Correct. It's called total loss system. We have tested our bike with this setup to run three 20 minute sessions with three starts, and that is not charging in between. When using the lithium batteries we use, and charging in between sessions, there is no need for battery hot swaps. This setup is only conducive for track use. We do not recommend doing this for the street.
@5.58 'Valve lift' is not holding the valve open longer. That's valve duration. Valve lift is valve lift - how much it lifts - amplitude if you like. I think you should clear that up so people don't go getting themselves more valve lift and mashing valves to pistons.
John knows the difference between lift and duration. The explanation got away from him a bit in the moment. I am sure that anyone that is doing this kind of work to their motor already knows the difference, especially if they are dictating the lobe design.
Would have been great to start this project on a new Ninja 400.
Don't worry. We bought the first 400 that was delivered to our area in early March. Next year's SuperBike series will be focusing on us building that bike.
Sweeeeet
DEAR TST
Can I order the R3 engine sets?
Many many thanks 😊
Sam
Are you asking about ordering a ready to go SB engine, or the parts to build it yourself?
TSTindustries ,yes sir I want to build myself ,please let me know is it available🙇🏻
can you make this engine sound like mt07?
We've got it sounding better ua-cam.com/video/hL_ldPRVPi0/v-deo.html
Make more videos of racing bike engine rebuild
This used to be called 'blueprinting'.
That term is still used today.
snorttt 6:45 lol
Kaun sa bike hai
Nice work guys but it's sad to see Japanese manufacturers making these shitty engine's. They mastered 250cc 4 cylinder marvels in 1980's which were revving up to 18000 RPM in stock form with carbs. You guys should build up a 4 cylinder 250 and then compare these so called Morden bike's.
not that they do shitty engines. they just have to conform to standards, rules and laws.. then balance all of that with the company's financials and make sure they are still making money at the end of the day. They can do this things for sure (i.e. MotoGP, SBK, etc), it's just not for everybody.
KimmyR3 but don't you think they are only developing the litre class. Every body cannot afford a litre class bike and these 300cc bike's are not exactly cheap.
yeah well think about how much a damn 300 would cost if it had 4 cylinders it would cost a lot more
a 1992 CBR 250RR cost around the price of a modern day R3 so it woulda cost ALOT more then an R3 if they were sold new today
they do, but not to this extent I presume. I also have an R3, and as much as I want these companies to give me the best, I also have to be realistic. Heck, we don't even have the ABS version here in the Philippines. lol. The most (i think..) we can hope for is for the little techs to trickle down to their "budget" bikes. Techs like quickshifters, adjustable forks and shocks, better electronics, brakes, etc. Or maybe making the current parts cheaper, making the bike as a whole cheaper. That would also be good. :)
KimmyR3 I understand your position. I am from India and I have KTM RC 390 with powertronic, here r3 is pretty expensive. I guess you are more lucky coz if you try I think you might get your hands on Yamaha FZR250 the 4 cylinder beauty.
That was rude of the guy to just kick mark Wahlberg off the set
right?
“Valve lift” isn’t how LONG you hold the valve open...it’s the max measurement it WILL open. “Duration” is how long it will stay at that open or certain configuration. I’m sure you know that (well maybe you don’t, wouldn’t be surprised with the patronizing attitude you have towards your explanations and viewers) and people screw up their terms all the time (I do it plenty myself), but for people who don’t know and are watching these videos to actually try and educate themselves on these things, they might appreciate the proper terms because they are very different even though we are talking about the same actual parts. Not trying to be a dick or know it all by any means because I don’t, but some might appreciate that.
weeeeeeelll
This guy . . .
I am hardcore fan for yamaha racing mechins.. i ma R3 woner in india my bike top speed only 196 kph only I am not satisfied my bike 210 kph is possible dudes pleas help me guys
Valve lift is not the same as valve duration.
Yes, we know that.
5:42
Yeah, he should have said duration, but maybe those cams have a little more of both. 😎
First 😎👌🏾
to hard to watch, how to for dummys
Suzuki GSX R-125 moto3 build please🙏
We do not have a GSXR125 in our market. It would be very difficult to get our hands on one of these bikes.
TSTindustries too bad☹️ I just have GSXR150, and want to see how you build 1 cylinder faster like moto3 build. i'm interesting how TST build the R3(In my country was R25). Keep it up👌😁
Which country
Devendra Mahajan indonesia
You talk funny. Informative video nonetheles..
u drunk?
Are u?
Boring