Jaguar X type 2.0L diesel Oil and filters change 03-09 (A Beginners Guide)
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- Опубліковано 24 жов 2018
- In this video I show you how I changed out the oil, oil filter, air filter and topped up the washer reservoir (minor service) on a 2007 Jaguar X type 2.0l TDI
Oil: approx 6.6 Ltr, any quality SAE 5W 30, Acea a5/b5, Ford wss-m2c913-B
Oil: amzn.to/3t5jHLT None DPF
Oil Filter: amzn.to/3JRgE00 58x92x35
Air Filter: amzn.to/32RLjd0 454x89x50
Sump Plug: amzn.to/31CK00Q M14 x 1.5
Metal support bar 4 -15mm
plastic cover screws 8 - T30
Sump plug, M14 x 1.5 Thread, AJ8 3017, 13mm 25 Nm and nip up tight
Washer OE 1005593
Oil Filter housing cap, 36mm 25 Nm and nip up tight
Air filter housing, Phillips screw evenly torqued down tight
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I used this video to help service a my own thanks
Thanks for this good wee video mate
Brilliant video, clear and easy to understand. I have serviced my vehicle following your explanation, excellent and much appreciated 🙏🏾
Greatly appreciated, thank you and happy motoring :-)
In a busy life dashing from job to job. It was great to watch a video at nice slow pace. Very useful as well.
Also, looking at a previous video you posted - you are based in Lincoln? Same!
Thanks very much for you kind comments, glad to have entertained :-)
lovely place Lincoln:-)
Just bought an 09 plate 2.0d X type loving it so far. Brilliant guide thank you.
Glad to hear you like these cars and my guide. They are still excellent drivers cars.
@@HatBoyHarvey yes, the X type is definitely an underrated car and surprisingly affordable to buy and maintain by the looks of it.
I'm hoping to do a service soon to it, currently it's only getting 36mpg and that's driving it carefully. Do you think the EGR is blocked up with diesel dirt?
diesels should do around 53 with gentle driving. yes the EGR can always get blocked up, but check the intercooler pipe isn't split first as this is common and fairly easy fix. The EGR is a messy job, but worth it. higher milage ones may need the injectors checked if running rough :-)
Excellent - thank you
Nice one, thanks. Pick up a Jag x type on Wednesday. And have ordered a service kit. 84k on clock.
Good purchase, happy motoring :-)
Best video for this job on this car on you tube. Thanks
Brilliant! Love your comment, all I need now is others to share the same sentiment :-)
Brilliant in depth guide. Ty.
Thanks dude :-)
Very detailed interesting video! I own a gasoline X-type and it's interesting to compare the process of oil and filter change on gas and diesel X-types
Thank you, Glad you enjoyed the video :-)
What a fantastic video, thanks mate
Thank you, I appreciate that a lot and hope to do more Jag videos :-)
Excellent video, thanks 😁
Thanks, you're very welcome :-)
Top video, I also use milk bottle cut down, easy to do and saves a lot of money in garage costs. AND you know it is done properly.
Thanks, great to hear that you also use the milk bottle thing as the handle is quite useful and easily replaceable if it gets a bit grubby :-)
Excellent video 👍
Thanks, these are great cars :-)
Very nice and very clear video. Really I appreciate you. Yours way of speaking is very beautiful. You have increased my knowledge. I have also same 2.0 D blue X type jaguar. Billions time Thanks for uploading this video.
Thank you for your kind words. I will try to do more videos on the Jaguar x type as it is a great car :-)
Very nice step by step guide! Thank you dude this is pure money saving video!!!
You're very welcome, glad you liked it :-)
I have issues with intercooler 90degree pipe part, its easy to change this pipe when egr is off like in this video?Right?
Yes I would say so The short piece of pipe is easy to get off if you can loosen the bands which are the hard part if they are seized, marled-up or turned round the wrong way. In the video I used a 1/4 swivel which helped, but a short stubby screwdriver may also. penetrating fluid if rusty. I guess the pipe has split as this is common!
top video
Good video...I needed to watch this just to know how to remove the undertray because I accidentally dropped a screw head and a socket through the gaps in the engine,which are now on the tray,and they rattle when the engines running which is annoying.
Thanks, no worries, we've all done that at some stage, I know I have, different to the old days!
Excellent thank you very much
You are very welcome :-)
Just done mine but before doing these jobs I like to check out videos like yours and I am glad I did as the milk carton is a great idea thanks for that. I just did my fuel filter as well which was easy but it would make a good video
Thanks Chris Waywell, glad you checked out my video and found it useful. Also thanks for the fuel filter idea as I will do a video on this sometime :-)
simple when you know how
thumbs up! great clear and cool video. did you also made video about changing the fuel filter?
Thanks, I will ahave to do the fuel filter at some stage, yes :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey yeah, but the most difficult must be the fuel pump. i couldnt find not even 1 in yt
Nice clear video mate thanks. Where would you get a new washer for the sump plug?
complete plug AJ8 3017 £5 or washer, OE 1005593 I found 5 for £4 on ebay or a genuine one will probably be around £10 for one.
@@HatBoyHarvey thanks mate! 👍
thanks for video. one question, do you have any tip for gearbox fluid exchange? any video as well? cheers!
If you have auto box then I have heard positive things about changing the ATF stopping whinning noises. Replace same amount you take out, (check volume spec) do this a few times for good results, sorry no vid, mine is manual :-)
Just did mine on a manual box, I recommend a pit if possible, makes it a lot easier. It takes approximately 1.6 ltrs and you'll need a 8mm hex key. The filler is at the front of the box, before undoing the rear nut make sure you can open the filler nut first.
Just bought one of these cars and this video was a great help :) - thanks for uploading
Looking to change oil and oil filter myself every 8/10k depending on the type of driving; would you replace the engine air filter at the same time or at less frequent intervals?
Cheers :D
You don't need to replace the air filter every time you change the oil. If you take the air filter out and examine it from time to time you will get an idea just how dirty it becomes as everyone lives in different places the air quality is different. dusty rural or industrial areas can increase air filter contaminants so may need more frequent checks. The maintenance schedule is every 30,000 mile, but I change min every 2 to 3 oil changes. It is good to have an unrestricted flow of air entering the engine for optimal performance so there is no harm changing this more often, just your wallet.
Thanks for the response, that’s a great help :)
@@thewelshbeersnob2783 how is your car holding up after all these years?
How Jaguar can design this without an access door for the sump plug is one of lifes mysterys. Routine maintenance should be as easy as possible. Good vid thanks and a nice car all the same!
Tis a lovely car, especially being so old. At least the X type doesn't have a lot of the modern problematic stuff and electronics that give everone headaches :-)
Have you done a video for changing a diesel fuel filter yet , would be much appreciated if you have time
Sorry to say I havn't yet, but I will likley do this now you mentioned it and are important items to change to eliminate particles and water that build up over time.
The fuel filter is actually a pretty easy job. It's located in the upper left area of the engine bay immediately beneath (give or take) the left side wiper. There are only a few factors to consider/remember. - Remember which pipe goes where on it (there are 3 - they are attached by sliding clips, awkward but an easy enough removal with a decent flat headed screwdriver), the mount surround (looks like a cup holder) is well known for coming loose and isn't attached particularly well, so you might need to re-attach it via a (nearly useless) circular clip, finally make sure you fill up the new filter with diesel before replacing it. If you don't, you'll start the car up and it won't fire up. The fuel flow from the pump isn't strong enough to get it working and if you keep turning it over you'll eventually burn it out.
+1 on this
Very good video. Although unfortunately almost every single torx screw holding the plastic in place was beyond recovery.
In my defence the car had been neglected by previous owners.
Thanks, they probably changed to oil with a pump from the top and never bothered with the undertray :-)
Good video. I’m surprised a Jag uses metric bolts and screws.
what do you suggest for transmission filter and fluid?
Mine is manual, sorry don't know. What I do know is don't leave it to go thick and burnt or you may get problems when you do change it out.
Nice video, the only addition I'd make is to run the engine before the oil change just so the oil is nice and warm (and drains a little faster) - For the sake of anyone reading this, for the love of god don't leave the engine running while you're doing the oil change! Judging by your motor, it looks like you've had the injectors changed fairly recently. Couldn't tell if you'd blanked the EGR or not.
Many thanks for watching Mike, The video does actually tell you this at :44 and no and no to your other questions :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey Ah, so you did. Sorry, my ears must have gone off-duty for that one. If you do still own it, I'd thoroughly recommend blanking the EGR (presuming this isn't a DPF model). Gives a solid performance boost and slightly better fuel consumption. A blanking plate only costs about £10 on eBay and if you've ever had to change the EGR hose, this job will seem like a doddle.
good morning, i'm thinking about buying a car like these but in a van. what is your feedback? what is the reliability? what are the expected consumptions? the car is from 2007 what problems can i expect? what are the chronic problems of this engine?
Great car, never heard of a van, (what is it a hearse?) but the engine in these is basically a Ford Transit which is slightly better than the mondeo engine which also shares similarities. I have found mine to be very reliable as yet with around 90k, driven daily, I think they like that. I believe the engine can have injector issues later on and fuel pumps fail. My headlight washer don't work, but no great shakes. The biggest downside is the mpg compared to modern cars. I get over 50mpg any kind of driving, but increases on a run to 58mpg. I can get the digital econo-meter to say 65mpg, but this is not accurate when I measure the tank on refills. There are many badly looked after examples that have been abused so stay clear of those. The satnav is ok, not updatable now wont get me to a town without a street name?! pain, postcode fine. Things like auto lights/wipers/heated seats/rearmirrordip/parkingsensors all work great and very useful, the lights are good also as well as the ride comfort and handling which are excellent, but it isn't a BMW. 130hp ones are better with no DPF.
Do you have to replace the rubber seal on the sump plug every time you change the oil?? Thanks
It is always advisable to fit a complete new plug, but with these it is cheaper when you find the right size rubber washer. If you don't and many don't, it may leak onto the road leading to accidents (worst case senario). It is a liability thing really so mechanics and engineers will always recommend a new complete plug torqued to spec :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey thanks man 👍
@@HatBoyHarvey what is the torque setting for the sump plug please?
I'm finding it near impossible to remove the support bar bolts. I have even used wd40. Do you recommend any other Penetrant Spray. First time doing this please help
You can use an impact driver/wrench on them or just a hammer with repeated blows; coupled with penetrating fluid this should free them up. Try using a long tubular bar over your spanner/wrench and knock repeatedly with heavy short hammer again (this works for me often). If no luck then drilling them out as a last resort - re-tap the threads and fit stainless steel bolts.Hope this helps :-)
Where can I find the recommended torque for the oil nut and casing
In my description
What about changing the fuel filter on a x type diesel 2ltr
Yes I will have to do that one in a separate video, thanks :-)
do you know if 2.2d is the same?
Same
Marks on the dipstick are min and max so you do t need to be mid way between the two, almost up to the max is fine. Great video though.
Thanks JtotheW Glad you liked the video. Yes, the marks between min and max are for the optimum level, but be aware if you fill it up to just under max you need to check this the next day as after resting the oil level will increase and may be over, so you need to allow for this. In my opinion it is best practice to fill to the mid point which allows you the ability to re-check (I recommend checking the oil level regularly) and fill at a later date without risk of under or over filling. Obviously under filling increases friction/heat build up and risks catastrophic engine failure and over filling causes the crank to dip into the oil creating foaming which reduces the oil's efficiency as well as other detrimental effects :-)
i noticed that the car is jacked only on the one side while draining the oil. is this nessesery, or it can be draines on flat surface as well?
@@HatBoyHarvey would need to be an awful lot of residual oil scattered around the engine to take you from nearly max to over and to a harmful level. If it's been drained refilled and left on a flat surface without being run the reading on the dipstick should be accurate enough without needing to recheck.
Very good video. Although unfortunately almost every single torx screw holding the plastic in place was beyond recovery.
Thanks:-)
is jagure x tpte 2:0 disel engine lounder than other cars engine
It does tap a bit more at idle, but it isn't noticeable when moving and very reliable when used regularly :-)
These take exactly 6.2 litres of oil.
When you know, you know 😉
Te suena mal.creo que el damper,o.. vete tu a saber.
Mi auto;ford/puma duratocq tdci2.2D.155CV.año2006
Sí, esto parece que la rueda de la polea del cigüeñal necesita la versión mejorada de la polea amortiguadora o TVD.
Should have removed you're watch first pal
I agree! ;-)