Thanks for the shout out Jackie. You should talk to Grant about those billet hubs, I think a version of those shattered on a racing customer in Australia. TLDR: I think you need to run OEM cast hubs on a competition car BGRS has their in house ae86 forged spindles also, not sure if you got with Grant on those yet. You've probably talked to Joshiroku already, but that S2000 transmission NEEDS a 2 piece driveshaft. You can have a driveshaft shop build you one from scratch - my local shop needed the center portion of the factory driveshaft that holds the center bearing. See how you like that quick rack. Grant and I agree a properly depowered P/S rack seems to have the "best" feel. (I run a depowered Zenki rack in my personal car)
I’ll try these billet hubs out and monitor their conditions for sure. I’ll follow up with Grant on the forged spindles, don’t have them yet. We are likely doing a telescopic driveshaft rather than a full 2-piece, that solution worked for a local car and I’m def not looking at a 1-piece. I have effectively the same rack (manual rack + quaife quick steering ratio) in the red street car and been really enjoying it. I’m also a driver with very little demand for “steering feel”, as long as it turns the car lol
Window nets are always a giant PITA to latch and unlatch, at least the one's I've used. Looking forward to seeing how well the push-button setup works.
Use more than one port on the valve cover. You want to vacuum all the crankcase pressure out as much as possible. The best method is to mount a check valve on one side and a vacuum pump on the other port or you would want to rout a vacuum line back into to the intake manifold. If you’re running ITBs then a vacuum pump would be best.
@@JackieDing86 if a vacuum pump is allowed in your class it's literally free power. I've seen 10% gain on some set up. Especially since power is expensive all motor.
@@TJPDmember this car will be in a power-to-weight class and we’re supposed to detune the K24 to around 170-175 whp, soooo… less power actually helps a little in this case
Brooooo I hopped on the Titan7 website so fast when I saw your wheels 😂😂 booo lol car is coming together nicely! Good call on the fire suppression system btw 👌🏼 I could never sit in a car with that pull cord and not be tempted to pull though 😂💀 digging the update videos! Keep up the good work!
Just so you know for next time or the near future (because drive by wire is superior)...they already sell DBW pedal assemblies, like, a bunch of them, and they're typically pretty cheap, you can pick up a cheapie universal one for $95, or you can spend about $350 for a fancy billet one, or you can go crazy with really nice ones up to about a grand, but they're all less than a grand, and you can definitely get a plug and play throttle assembly for $100....then you can enable in your ECU, flat foot shifting, downshift blips(multi-stage blips even), run a wheel speed sensor and you can have traction control (that you can actually do without the pedal, but it's nice when it's throttle controlled instead of ignition so people don't realize you're running it 😉)... bunch of stuff. I was against DBW for the longest, until I of course, did my own research and realized all the options it opens up for your CPU to control further. DBW, Wheel Speed Sensors(1 front and 1 rear), Linear Position Sensors for your shocks and/or those laser height sensors mounted to the chassis with your ECU opens up a ton of tuning options and abilities.
Yes but this is an 80s touring car tribute build with no power steering, no ABS, live rear axle, manual everything. I know DBW is awesome but I’m going old school on this
I wonder what sort of widebody kit will jackie put on his ae86 tho cause theres a lot of options like TEC ARTs AE86 widebody kit etc etc all though i hope jackie adds an old school GT300 Widebody kit for the AE86 if i remember correctly there was an ae86 that was used in the SUPER GT series so yeah but then yet again its his build so yeah i could be wrong
That cage is so badly made all the active safety in the world won't help in a bad crash. The main hoop is so far away from the cars door pillars , the cross bracing going to the main hoop centre bar is insane ! in a bad rear offset hit it will most likely fail at the weld and end up entering the drivers area . There was a incident at Sandown race track in Australia with a cage built the same way from a "new" to ROPS company . That would never pass at for any FIA . MSA and I doubt whatever is the equivalent motorsport body over there in USA .
Just to clarify, there are different rules for different occasions. If you do low speed races like cross or slalom you can have smaller diameter and single tube reinforcement in the back. If you go for faster races you need bigger diameter & cross tube reinforcement. There are extra rules for certain type of races aswell (passenger YES/NO, offroad, street, track). When it comes to the offset, the seating position is important. Usually there is a max offset rule, but you want the least offset, like you said!
Noted, like I said we bought the car with the cage already put in, and it’s something I plan to revisit when we do a Version 2 of the build. But I think for starters, this will be ok. Ultimately if I don’t feel safe in it doing w2w, I can always choose to do something else with the car, whether it’s TA or drift. The choice is mine.
What you said about the brace is totally on point and need to be redesigned but I'll disagree on the room between the hoop and door pillar, that isn't always detrimental, it allows for more impact absorption from the body of the car itself before the cage become under stress which will help lessen the impact felt by the driver. You usually want to get it as tight as possible for chassis rigidity (with gussets to the body) and to give more room to the driver.
Thanks for the shout out Jackie. You should talk to Grant about those billet hubs, I think a version of those shattered on a racing customer in Australia. TLDR: I think you need to run OEM cast hubs on a competition car
BGRS has their in house ae86 forged spindles also, not sure if you got with Grant on those yet.
You've probably talked to Joshiroku already, but that S2000 transmission NEEDS a 2 piece driveshaft. You can have a driveshaft shop build you one from scratch - my local shop needed the center portion of the factory driveshaft that holds the center bearing.
See how you like that quick rack. Grant and I agree a properly depowered P/S rack seems to have the "best" feel. (I run a depowered Zenki rack in my personal car)
I’ll try these billet hubs out and monitor their conditions for sure. I’ll follow up with Grant on the forged spindles, don’t have them yet.
We are likely doing a telescopic driveshaft rather than a full 2-piece, that solution worked for a local car and I’m def not looking at a 1-piece.
I have effectively the same rack (manual rack + quaife quick steering ratio) in the red street car and been really enjoying it. I’m also a driver with very little demand for “steering feel”, as long as it turns the car lol
Window nets are always a giant PITA to latch and unlatch, at least the one's I've used. Looking forward to seeing how well the push-button setup works.
If this was a Netflix show, I'd binge-watch the entire season.
Lot of good gems like the battery cut off, window nets, that’s why i like these builds so I Can add to my own
Use more than one port on the valve cover. You want to vacuum all the crankcase pressure out as much as possible. The best method is to mount a check valve on one side and a vacuum pump on the other port or you would want to rout a vacuum line back into to the intake manifold. If you’re running ITBs then a vacuum pump would be best.
Considering we are keeping the car NA, I don’t think that would be the biggest problem. But we have the option to add more later on.
@@JackieDing86 it’s definitely beneficial even for a naturally aspirated high compression setup.
I always enjoy watching you drive. Great work.
@@JackieDing86 if a vacuum pump is allowed in your class it's literally free power. I've seen 10% gain on some set up. Especially since power is expensive all motor.
@@TJPDmember this car will be in a power-to-weight class and we’re supposed to detune the K24 to around 170-175 whp, soooo… less power actually helps a little in this case
@@JackieDing86 Oh!! Don't spend any money on that then haha
I do hope some form of heat shielding will be placed on the exhaust, even though there is shielding on the wiring.
Safety equipment is always a good ideer
Long story short.
Every good toyota needs a Honda engine 😊
Nice build man
Ceramic coat your header!!! really cuts down under hood temps and pretects everything from getting burnt
That’s a good idea, I can look into that down the line!
Brooooo I hopped on the Titan7 website so fast when I saw your wheels 😂😂 booo lol car is coming together nicely! Good call on the fire suppression system btw 👌🏼 I could never sit in a car with that pull cord and not be tempted to pull though 😂💀 digging the update videos! Keep up the good work!
Had that Cartek unit on my S. It was so easy to install. A little bit pricier than a traditional system but works great.
Just so you know for next time or the near future (because drive by wire is superior)...they already sell DBW pedal assemblies, like, a bunch of them, and they're typically pretty cheap, you can pick up a cheapie universal one for $95, or you can spend about $350 for a fancy billet one, or you can go crazy with really nice ones up to about a grand, but they're all less than a grand, and you can definitely get a plug and play throttle assembly for $100....then you can enable in your ECU, flat foot shifting, downshift blips(multi-stage blips even), run a wheel speed sensor and you can have traction control (that you can actually do without the pedal, but it's nice when it's throttle controlled instead of ignition so people don't realize you're running it 😉)... bunch of stuff. I was against DBW for the longest, until I of course, did my own research and realized all the options it opens up for your CPU to control further.
DBW, Wheel Speed Sensors(1 front and 1 rear), Linear Position Sensors for your shocks and/or those laser height sensors mounted to the chassis with your ECU opens up a ton of tuning options and abilities.
Yes but this is an 80s touring car tribute build with no power steering, no ABS, live rear axle, manual everything. I know DBW is awesome but I’m going old school on this
Next LEVEL
Awesome!
I need those wheels for the Fit. So you could use a BRZ/frs TB & pedal is you want to go drive by wire.
Yea will consider for later revisions
I wonder what sort of widebody kit will jackie put on his ae86 tho cause theres a lot of options like TEC ARTs AE86 widebody kit etc etc all though i hope jackie adds an old school GT300 Widebody kit for the AE86 if i remember correctly there was an ae86 that was used in the SUPER GT series so yeah but then yet again its his build so yeah i could be wrong
Haha, I certainly want to go for that era of looks. It’ll be pretty cool I hope
Watching closely
Wait I kinda didn't watch UA-cam for a while, is this the 4AG 86? Dang that would be kinda sad if it was.
Nope! This is a different chassis!
We need to turn your video into a drinking video. Anytime you say "hot boy" you drink.......
That cage is so badly made all the active safety in the world won't help in a bad crash. The main hoop is so far away from the cars door pillars , the cross bracing going to the main hoop centre bar is insane ! in a bad rear offset hit it will most likely fail at the weld and end up entering the drivers area . There was a incident at Sandown race track in Australia with a cage built the same way from a "new" to ROPS company . That would never pass at for any FIA . MSA and I doubt whatever is the equivalent motorsport body over there in USA .
Just to clarify, there are different rules for different occasions. If you do low speed races like cross or slalom you can have smaller diameter and single tube reinforcement in the back. If you go for faster races you need bigger diameter & cross tube reinforcement. There are extra rules for certain type of races aswell (passenger YES/NO, offroad, street, track). When it comes to the offset, the seating position is important. Usually there is a max offset rule, but you want the least offset, like you said!
Noted, like I said we bought the car with the cage already put in, and it’s something I plan to revisit when we do a Version 2 of the build. But I think for starters, this will be ok.
Ultimately if I don’t feel safe in it doing w2w, I can always choose to do something else with the car, whether it’s TA or drift. The choice is mine.
What you said about the brace is totally on point and need to be redesigned but I'll disagree on the room between the hoop and door pillar, that isn't always detrimental, it allows for more impact absorption from the body of the car itself before the cage become under stress which will help lessen the impact felt by the driver.
You usually want to get it as tight as possible for chassis rigidity (with gussets to the body) and to give more room to the driver.
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