I run DMAC tension rod brackets on my car and Battle Version tension rods (need to run longer center bars - Alex can provide these)
In case you guys aren't adding reinforcement, the Cusco tension rod brace does A LOT for the flimsy lower rad support.
cant wait... thanks for taking us on this journey
Cant wait to see this thing ripping it in the GLTC Field.
#stickaxlegang unite!
Love these vids man, really nice work! Thanks for showing the details of all the fab work.
Amazing!
"No no; SEMA you usually want brake calipers."
Gotta at least look complete. Bluetooth driveshaft on the other hand…
Great progress man, some real nice fab work on the tunnel. Look forward to hearing that K series scream!
sweet
Yusssssss
Do you think the TF works oil pan would work with the subframe spacers in place? I'm currently looking at pan options for my own k24 ae86, and I'm using the JSP swap mounts also.
We mocked it up previously, it *fits* but because the engine is so far forward, it would interfere with the factory style front sway bar. So the unexpected consequence of moving the whole engine + trans back is the front sway bar now clears no problem!
Everything has to bolted on to tin can chassis, hopefully subfloor can get some braces to improve regidity
We already did the TechnoToy Framerail extension kit to improve the overall rigidity, not to mention the cage that ties into the rear shock mount.
Maybe on V2 Version you can build a subframe that lowers the engine ( since the AE subframe sits above the chassis rails to ground in height ) and that should help lower the CG of that huge lump of a engine.
Whilst your at it since L/H/D maybe you can add a inverted modern R/H/D power steering rack or rear steer rack. The factory small diameter Toyota racks from my experience start to need constant rebuilding once you get above 1.5g in a 1060kg full street car running semi slicks. I used a inverted narrowed EVO 6 RS rack with S/R Nissan front end parts to equal a 2.2 wheel ratio in the end to solve the constant rack bush wear issues.
I think your going to shocked at the weight at the end , the K Series are stupid heavy ( when say compared to a QR25 at the same capacity ) and all those bolt on aftermarket parts just add more and more weight to the great AE chassis . You need to dump all that stuff and go with lighter more modern components to really get the weight down and to retrieve the factory perfect weight split of 50/50 .
Our oil pan already sits pretty low so maybe we'll think about reworking that when we do a dry sump, maybe.
Looking at the weight it's likely around 400 lbs for the K24 + S2K 6 speed. It'll be ok!
@@JackieDing86 When a 4age with the same kinda of aftermarket parts and a T50 is most likely more than 100lbs lighter and sits lower and further back the question is OK for what ?
@@improvedae86The 4A is not making 200+ on the wheels and 170+ ft lbs of torque with just an intake manifold and header…
I’m building this car, my way.
@@JackieDing86 Nobody is questioning your directions to your mechanic building the car ... But if that is all the power and torque you wanted you couldn't have just bolted a turbo to a 4A ?
Because prices of 4A engines are going up, turbo kits and associated parts costs too, plus reliability of a 4A turbo is never gonna match an NA K24. Plus if I ever wanted more power, the NA K24 is a Garrett G25-660 turbo away from easy 450 whp. The performance ceiling is much higher.
check your lift points lmao one of them isnt contacting the car. cool stuff!
Wow, very cool idea to move the mounting brackets back on the subframe. Clever stuff!