I'm a woman who has never done major mechanical work and I followed this man step by step and did my own driver side door actuator. I'm sooooo proud of myself and I'm soooooooo grateful for an excellent teacher. You made this so easy👐🏽👍🏾🤗
Damn I'm a retired mechanic and this was not possible to figure out without your very thorough instructions. I tried myself and couldn't figure it out, thank you for explaining so methodically and with such clear video demonstration.
Daughter's 2005 Accord had bad actuators on both front doors. I followed the instructions provided in this video to replace both actuators. Instructions were spot on and the door locks now work. Super thankful for your time in making this detailed how to video. I even bit the bullet and bought a six piece set of Vessel screwdrivers. I don't think I could have removed the door latch screws undamaged without that #3 JIS screwdriver. Really enjoy all your vids, but this was the highlight of a successful DIY repair!
Ok so when I put my key in the hole the key doesn't even turn. When I press the lock from the inside it makes a sound but it doesn't lock. My mechanic said its the lock actuator and I just hope he's right.are these issues you had with the lock?
@@frankwhite555 Not the same. On my daughter's car the key would lock and unlock the door. The switch wouldn't lock or unlock the front doors, but I could manually lock or unlock the driver door and it would activate the rear doors, but not the passenger front. They all work now, but I still have an issue with the actuators all activating while driving with the doors locked. As if they are all trying to lock even though they are already locked. I'm glad had the door latch cables on hand as BigDog recommended. I broke mine on both doors despite trying to be super careful.
@@Fiat-Domine oh ok. I'm just trying to figure what my issue is and I'm not trying to pay 100s of dollars just get it checked and fixed. I actually climb through my trunk to get in my car it's a bit frustrating
@BigDog50001 Door locks randomly try to actuate while driving. Replaced the actuators on the front driver and passenger a year ago and that solved the problem with the doors randomly unlocking, but within a couple of weeks the actuators started randomly firing again, but now they only try to lock the doors. What could cause this problem.
Followed him step by step and fixed my 2007 honda accord SE 2.4L v4 driver sides's door with a help of a friend. My door knob was working but the door use to open in lock position. Did also have some mech problem with the latch so lubricanted it. Good detailed video saved me 300 dollars.
Huge thanks, finally I can use my remote lock and unlock. One tip for 28:38 if you're having trouble with that metal clip, like i did, use some pliers (with one end on the metal piece and the other on the plastic) in a way so that when you squeeze it, that forces the plastic to come off. Instead of fumbling with a screw driver and almost breaking the plastic like I nearly did. Other than that, this was a fairly simple fix thanks to you and I'm very happy I didn't have to spend $70 on having someone else do it
I did the replacement of these door lock actuators on my 7th gen coupe a couple of years back. I wished there was your detailed step-by-step instruction then. Another excellent video, sir. Thank you very much.
Thank you so much for the great video -- I appreciate the detailed steps, clear video shots, and the expert advice/warnings! I was able to successfully swap out the driver side interior door handle cable on my 2006 Accord. Took about three hours because I'm a noob, but worth the time and effort! I will definitely look to your channel again for the other small repairs needed on that car.
Thank you for this video. I had a bad lock mechanism but after watching your video also bought the latch cable, pink tab, and lock actuator. Smooth process and really like your step by step process!
One of the most important part of this video is at 21:15 where he shows how to remove the rod. I couldn't figure that out on my own. Thank you for showing.
I was a bit timid going into the door and messing with the connections, linkages. But your posted video was great. My replacement with the actuator went well. Thank you.
Save. My life 👍 I was having problem taking the part to change the door cable but after watching this so much easier honda try to charge me $371 to change the cable door
This is the best video I’ve seen on the subject. Thank you very much! Too bad my problem did not get fixed - replaced actuator and MICU, still same issue only the rear passenger side door unlocks.
Big thanks ,was able to successfully install new lock actuator and door latch cable on my 2003 accord coupe, the tip about JIS driver was helpful. The latch cable did break as you mentioned, so happy I got it done, original owner and 175k miles , no clue what the shop would have charged, but I’m sure it would not be cheap! You are the Big Dog!
Are there more screws in the coupe door to remove? I heard that in another video but havent seen it in any other on youtube; so was curious since it has a handle in the door, etc. 03' here as well.
@@mattbuck9271 I think the two shown in the video are it fro screws, a lot of clips around the door , but can't say for sure been awhile. You will need a new cable most likely as he mentions in video.
@@macses Did it over the weekend and there are the 2 screws behind the door lever and 2 screws underneath the arm rest for the coupes After that just trim tool around and pop out. Easy enough. Once I got the trim off and the actuator out, I realized that eBay's car part finder decided to give me the sedan actuator which is different *facepalm* Trip to the nearest in stock parts store, $50 later, and a couple hours added on the repair; but I can lock and unlock my doors now with my remote again at least.
Found this video after alot of trial and error...just to replace the cable...broke the little pink plastic retainer and got some more on Amazon..this is wonderful video thanks..My daughter s coupe is way easier.
Don't remove the door handle rod from the top @ 21:46; too much risk breaking the door handle. Instead, remove the rod from the latch/lock assembly where the rod is held in by the black plastic keeper clip to the curved metal travel guide visible @ 21:04 - 21:05. For the orientation shown in this video for the driver-side front door, rotate that black clip counterclockwise to release it from that rod. Then the rod can be pulled out and released from the assembly. This is an excellent, very detailed video.
Terrific instructions - super clear and very helpful. That door handle rod (at about 22:00) gave me a real fight and would not come loose - I finally got it to surrender by disconnecting it at the bottom end on the actuator, and I found that to be quite easy. In the end, a successful repair. Thank you for posting your video - I’m a subscriber now!
As always great informative video! I have replaced the actuator on the rear door of the same car. You do an excellent job with your videos and really appreciate you doing these! Keep up the great work.
Good tip on the all-weather tape! Keeps from messing with the adhesive and getting all over your hands, arms, hair, etc 😂. The connectors alway a PITA! Nice work 👍🏼
Excellent step-by-step instructions to disassemble and reassemble the actuator, including the specialty tools to use (e.g. Vessel JIT screwdrivers). One hint: don't allow the door to close on you between screwing on the door latch (38:16) and connecting the wire rods to the door handle. That happened to me on reassembly (it can happen on disassembly too) and it doubled the time it took me to complete the work because I had to secure the thicker rod (with the barb) to the door handle from inside the car cabin and have a helper pull on the door handle from the outside to open the door.
Thanks Big Dog50001. This video worked perfectly for me. Do you also have videos of you replacing the passenger or rear door actuators in a 2003-2007 accord?
This video is incredibly informative. Thank you for making it. I have a question on a 2003 Honda accord. The drivers side door won’t lock either via lock button on door or by key on outside of door. All the other doors lock so I don’t think it’s electrical. I followed these directions just short of removing the whole assembly. I’m seeing that the little lock tab that goes up or down when locked or unlocked does not move. If I use the key on the outside of the car the little tab does not go down or up. If I turn the key on the outside of the door to the lock position the tab tries to go down but doesn’t make it, however if I hold the key in the cylinder in fully lock position, the door handle does not open the door. So basically there’s nothing I can do to get that little lock tab at the end of the cable which signals the door is locked or unlocked to go down. Even taking the door apart I cannot force that tab down into its housing. All the other doors and locks work fine. Any ideas? Thank you for your time and consideration
Awesome video. I need to do this and my friend told me that it was easy. This is not easy even tho you made it seem easy but if I take my time and do what you did... I'll be fine. Thanks for the great video.
Yeah what he means is easy for guys who work on cars as a hobby or a job lol. I'm watching these videos and all looks complicated just to even take the parts out. Not to mention to find out what's wrong
Thanks for the comment! This should be the part number for the door latch screws (of course always double check): Honda 90103-S7S-003, Screw, Flat (6X18.5)
*Parts and Tools* Disclosure: This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you. Driver's (Left) Side Door Lock Actuator 72155-SDA-A01: amzn.to/3i8TbYR Driver's (Left) Door Cable 72171-SDA-A02: amzn.to/2ECiUeM Passenger (Right) Side Door Lock Actuator 72115-SDA-A01: amzn.to/3cvevXo Passenger (Right) Door Cable 72131-SDA-A02: amzn.to/3ib3MCY Door Latch Screws Honda Part # 90103-S7S-003, Screw, Flat (6X18.5) My favorite little screwdriver: amzn.to/3i8b36i Vessel #2 Screwdriver: amzn.to/304oYnR Vessel Screwdriver Set: amzn.to/334B6XM All Weather Tape: amzn.to/3j9hkzS AESWave uTest Lead Kit: bit.ly/2O7Iuea Test Light: amzn.to/3cudTl0 Long Needle Nose Pliers Set: amzn.to/3cxImhX Knipex Bent Tip Pliers: amzn.to/2GdnPD7 Milwaukee M18 1/4" Driver: amzn.to/308a0x7 JIS #3 Bit: amzn.to/30bvNnH Work light: amzn.to/330HoYy Original JB Weld: amzn.to/30abaYP The Big Dog 50001 Automotive Channel Store can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/bigdog50001automotive
Be sure to subscribe for more tool and car repair videos! ua-cam.com/users/BigDog50001 twitter.com/BigDog50001 instagram.com/bigdog50001/ Disclosure: This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you. The Big Dog 50001 Automotive Channel Store can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/bigdog50001automotive
Hello, I just watched your video and I learned a lot, thank you for that, can you tell me what is the name of the cable where the door lock is activated, the one that is like a screw at the end?
Dave as always your videos are excellent. Now concerning Honda wiring connector pin sizes are the pins a known certain size or is it just using common sense as to what adapter fits and of course what doesn’t. I like that AES wave adapter kit. Another tool.YES. Now back to the video. Started the comment half way through so I don’t forget my question. You know what age does to the brain Lol. Also just took another ATG advanced electrical diagnostics course. Have to stay busy. Thanks buddy for sharing your knowledge. Artie 😊😊😊
I have several sizes that I seem to use all the time but I just eyeball them and use common sense, and if I am not sure I will start with a smaller size so I don't do any damage. Thanks for the comment Artie!
What lubircation shoul be used on the door lock it self. I though mu actuators where no good must on 1 door it woudl work in the morning but not after.
If I replace the actuator in the driver door will it make all my doors lock? all my doors unlock with the panel and the key but it doesn't lock with the panel or the key.
Thank you SO MUCH for your videos!!!! I’m almost done with this. However, I made a mistake and stripped the screws on the door jamb that holds the door actuator in place. Do you know the part number for these screws? Tips for removing the stripped screw? It’s about to rain and I’m desperate to trying to put everything together
I enjoyed part one ☝️ I’m not good with wiring schematics but your explanation made sense. From what I understand power for door locks and windows goes threw the master window switch assembly. I’m having trouble with my locks and windows. My trouble shooting switch at each door for windows works but not always at master switches. So that tells me it needs replaced. I can also run drivers window with key on or off at any time so it must have a short. Before I replace the lock actuator I’m going to start with the window switch. I’m working on a 2003 Honda CR-V
I usually get my OEM Honda parts either online or locally from Honda dealers. Right now some parts are hard to find due to manufacturer shortages unfortunately.
YO, "BIG 🐕", another fine video. I wish you had the video on the passenger side, my door locked while it was closed and will not 🔓 SMH, - UPDATE I rolled down the passenger side window, used my remote to unlock all the doors, when the actuator tried to move it upwards, I pulled the door lock & it unlocked!!! - I got the proper part and all the tools so my job to save $300 is ahead of me - any advice you could share I'd very much appreciate it fine sir, thanks again!!!
@@BigDog50001 yeah but I just stripped the door well JIS screw bolts, use the same Milwaukee 1/4 impact driver with the proper bit & I sprayed PB blaster on it twice a week before. I do have Irwin extractor set so I guess I'm going to have to use that to get the stupid screws out
hey man! i have a question. a few months ago, whenever i would try to unlock my car with my key fob, the lock would slowly unlock instead of unlocking quickly. over time, it got slower and slower until it only worked intermittently and now it doesn't work at all. this happens with multiple key fobs. once i manually unlock the driver's side door, the key fob will unlock all other doors as normal. the inside lock/unlock button works just fine. all of this applies to both locking and unlocking the car. is this what i need to replace?
Getting ready to do this surgery on the passenger side of 2005 Acura TSX which I think is the same as the accord. Absolutely the best video available on UA-cam to guide me. Your descriptive detail and excellent camera work is extremely helpful. Was thinking of bailing on this job but your video has made me determined. I started by attempting to remove the 3 exterior main screws of the actuator and ended up having to use an extractor on one of them but at least knew that before tackling the rest of the job. You mentioned that the passenger only has two rods. Any idea why? The least I can do is to subscribe!
Just finished this on the passenger side of a Acura 2005 TSX. Worked great. A couple of adds. Remember to take out the two screws on the armrest to remove the door panel. There is also a wire for the heated mirrors to disconnect There is also only 1 rod as it does not have a key access. Also I removed the glass retainer rod . Another poster on another video had said to try to remove it from the actuator but I found it awkward to get at that way. I used a multi meter to test to see if there was voltage coming to the wiring harness when you pressed the button. Also when testing the unit before re-assembly and putting the panel on it will not lock because the door needs to be closed for that to work. You can still hear the motor turning though to know your motor is spinning. No rod retainers broke on a 15 year old vehicle but different weather environment in Calgary Canada. Kinda fussy and fights you at most steps but take your time and you should be ok.
Can you do a video of how you determined that this was the faulty part? Anyone has done that ? Like a step by step checklist on what needs to be checked until you get to that actuator part (i.e the most amount of manual work required to remove ) Because knowing me I'm afraid of causing more things to not work ( electric windows ) after I try to fix my doors not locking/ unlocking with a key.
45:10 is important when putting the door back together. It messed me up for a little bit not realizing I forgot to put the plastic green piece in the correct spot
I see all these videos on how to replace these lock actuators.. but nothing on how to actually open the door if the door is in the lock position and the lock actuator is broke so the door won’t unlock… once I figure this out I’ll definitely have to post on how to open a locked door that cannot be unlocked or opened from the inside/outside
It typically involves breaking things, like the door panel to gain access. Before breaking things, I try to bang on the inner door panel or on the outside near door handle with my hand (where I won't ding or damage the door) while pressing the unlock button multiple times (I also try pulling up/wiggling the door lock knob instead of banging on the panel too). What I am trying to do is get the lock actuator to work one last time and unlock the door without doing any damage (banging or shocking an electrical motor like a door lock actuator can cause it to work again). Sometimes this trick can work and if it does I would open the door immediately and get it fixed right away (don't close it or try to lock it again without at least removing inner door panel).
The Honda actuators are a ton cheaper for 2004 year then Toyota 4runner actuators from Toyota for a 2000 model toyota wants over 150 bucks a peice for them and the hatch door is over 240 for that one
Those which design those devices, looks like they enjoy it complicating things instead of make it simple, plus using the cheapest material plastic and to buy those parts are expensive, we as consumers are doomed.
I usually don't do that for jobs like these, I typically will do some electrical testing before and after replacement so I will need the power connected. And remember, whenever the battery is disconnected many models needs to have certain systems reset.
I'm a woman who has never done major mechanical work and I followed this man step by step and did my own driver side door actuator. I'm sooooo proud of myself and I'm soooooooo grateful for an excellent teacher. You made this so easy👐🏽👍🏾🤗
Awesome, nice job!! Love to hear comments like this, thanks for sharing!
Great job Crystal. You give me confidence to do this on my car.
Now tell me the truth, your husband did it, while you were watching and
taking care of your nails.
Damn I'm a retired mechanic and this was not possible to figure out without your very thorough instructions. I tried myself and couldn't figure it out, thank you for explaining so methodically and with such clear video demonstration.
Glad it helped, thanks for the comment!
This is one of the best DIY instructors ever!
Daughter's 2005 Accord had bad actuators on both front doors. I followed the instructions provided in this video to replace both actuators. Instructions were spot on and the door locks now work. Super thankful for your time in making this detailed how to video. I even bit the bullet and bought a six piece set of Vessel screwdrivers. I don't think I could have removed the door latch screws undamaged without that #3 JIS screwdriver. Really enjoy all your vids, but this was the highlight of a successful DIY repair!
Ok so when I put my key in the hole the key doesn't even turn. When I press the lock from the inside it makes a sound but it doesn't lock. My mechanic said its the lock actuator and I just hope he's right.are these issues you had with the lock?
@@frankwhite555 Not the same. On my daughter's car the key would lock and unlock the door. The switch wouldn't lock or unlock the front doors, but I could manually lock or unlock the driver door and it would activate the rear doors, but not the passenger front. They all work now, but I still have an issue with the actuators all activating while driving with the doors locked. As if they are all trying to lock even though they are already locked. I'm glad had the door latch cables on hand as BigDog recommended. I broke mine on both doors despite trying to be super careful.
@@Fiat-Domine oh ok. I'm just trying to figure what my issue is and I'm not trying to pay 100s of dollars just get it checked and fixed. I actually climb through my trunk to get in my car it's a bit frustrating
@BigDog50001 Door locks randomly try to actuate while driving. Replaced the actuators on the front driver and passenger a year ago and that solved the problem with the doors randomly unlocking, but within a couple of weeks the actuators started randomly firing again, but now they only try to lock the doors. What could cause this problem.
Followed him step by step and fixed my 2007 honda accord SE 2.4L v4 driver sides's door with a help of a friend. My door knob was working but the door use to open in lock position. Did also have some mech problem with the latch so lubricanted it. Good detailed video saved me 300 dollars.
I have the same car and the drivers door will not close do you think this will work for that
Best darn mechanic I've ever seen when it comes to Hondas. Great job!
Huge thanks, finally I can use my remote lock and unlock. One tip for 28:38 if you're having trouble with that metal clip, like i did, use some pliers (with one end on the metal piece and the other on the plastic) in a way so that when you squeeze it, that forces the plastic to come off. Instead of fumbling with a screw driver and almost breaking the plastic like I nearly did. Other than that, this was a fairly simple fix thanks to you and I'm very happy I didn't have to spend $70 on having someone else do it
I did the replacement of these door lock actuators on my 7th gen coupe a couple of years back. I wished there was your detailed step-by-step instruction then. Another excellent video, sir. Thank you very much.
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
Thank you so much for the great video -- I appreciate the detailed steps, clear video shots, and the expert advice/warnings! I was able to successfully swap out the driver side interior door handle cable on my 2006 Accord. Took about three hours because I'm a noob, but worth the time and effort! I will definitely look to your channel again for the other small repairs needed on that car.
I appreciate the comment, thank you!
Oustanding video. Made the job a lot easier with your video. Thank you for taking the time to make clear and concise.
Thank you for this video. I had a bad lock mechanism but after watching your video also bought the latch cable, pink tab, and lock actuator. Smooth process and really like your step by step process!
One of the most important part of this video is at 21:15 where he shows how to remove the rod. I couldn't figure that out on my own. Thank you for showing.
👍
I was a bit timid going into the door and messing with the connections, linkages. But your posted video was great. My replacement with the actuator went well. Thank you.
This video saved me on my car. That door actuator is way harder to get out than it should be.
Save. My life 👍 I was having problem taking the part to change the door cable but after watching this so much easier honda try to charge me $371 to change the cable door
This is the best video I’ve seen on the subject. Thank you very much! Too bad my problem did not get fixed - replaced actuator and MICU, still same issue only the rear passenger side door unlocks.
Any tips for fixing a 2003 4 Dr Civic EU8 ?
Excellent video ! Had no idea how complicated this job is.
Big thanks ,was able to successfully install new lock actuator and door latch cable on my 2003 accord coupe, the tip about JIS driver was helpful. The latch cable did break as you mentioned, so happy I got it done, original owner and 175k miles , no clue what the shop would have charged, but I’m sure it would not be cheap! You are the Big Dog!
Are there more screws in the coupe door to remove? I heard that in another video but havent seen it in any other on youtube; so was curious since it has a handle in the door, etc. 03' here as well.
@@mattbuck9271 I think the two shown in the video are it fro screws, a lot of clips around the door , but can't say for sure been awhile. You will need a new cable most likely as he mentions in video.
@@macses Did it over the weekend and there are the 2 screws behind the door lever and 2 screws underneath the arm rest for the coupes After that just trim tool around and pop out. Easy enough. Once I got the trim off and the actuator out, I realized that eBay's car part finder decided to give me the sedan actuator which is different *facepalm*
Trip to the nearest in stock parts store, $50 later, and a couple hours added on the repair; but I can lock and unlock my doors now with my remote again at least.
Found this video after alot of trial and error...just to replace the cable...broke the little pink plastic retainer and got some more on Amazon..this is wonderful video thanks..My daughter s coupe is way easier.
Don't remove the door handle rod from the top @ 21:46; too much risk breaking the door handle. Instead, remove the rod from the latch/lock assembly where the rod is held in by the black plastic keeper clip to the curved metal travel guide visible @ 21:04 - 21:05. For the orientation shown in this video for the driver-side front door, rotate that black clip counterclockwise to release it from that rod. Then the rod can be pulled out and released from the assembly.
This is an excellent, very detailed video.
Thank you for this quality video. Because of it I was able to replace the actuator in our 2005 Accord. Thanks again!
Terrific instructions - super clear and very helpful. That door handle rod (at about 22:00) gave me a real fight and would not come loose - I finally got it to surrender by disconnecting it at the bottom end on the actuator, and I found that to be quite easy. In the end, a successful repair. Thank you for posting your video - I’m a subscriber now!
Glad it helped, thanks for the comment and welcome!
Nice video and very detailed.I followed it and was able to change the front door actuator.Thank you
Glad it helped, thanks for the comment!
Excellent video. Was able to take care of my car door handle and door lock actuator by myself. Big-ups, man
Thank you so much. For this video. I followed. All the steps and. I made it.. may the lord. Continue Blessing you. Tanks..
As always great informative video! I have replaced the actuator on the rear door of the same car. You do an excellent job with your videos and really appreciate you doing these! Keep up the great work.
I appreciate the comment, thank you!
Thanks!
Thanks for the support, I appreciate it!!
Great video. I love how he just throws the thing around.
Thanks for stopping by.
Good tip on the all-weather tape! Keeps from messing with the adhesive and getting all over your hands, arms, hair, etc 😂. The connectors alway a PITA! Nice work 👍🏼
Thanks 👍!
Excellent step-by-step instructions to disassemble and reassemble the actuator, including the specialty tools to use (e.g. Vessel JIT screwdrivers). One hint: don't allow the door to close on you between screwing on the door latch (38:16) and connecting the wire rods to the door handle. That happened to me on reassembly (it can happen on disassembly too) and it doubled the time it took me to complete the work because I had to secure the thicker rod (with the barb) to the door handle from inside the car cabin and have a helper pull on the door handle from the outside to open the door.
Thanks Big Dog50001. This video worked perfectly for me. Do you also have videos of you replacing the passenger or rear door actuators in a 2003-2007 accord?
Dave, GREAT VIDEO!!!!!! Thank you for all your help.
Amazing video! Thorough instructions. I was able to do the whole job myself. Thank you so much!!
Great step by step ! Best ever about accord door actuator ... Thank you very much!
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
This video is incredibly informative. Thank you for making it. I have a question on a 2003 Honda accord. The drivers side door won’t lock either via lock button on door or by key on outside of door. All the other doors lock so I don’t think it’s electrical. I followed these directions just short of removing the whole assembly. I’m seeing that the little lock tab that goes up or down when locked or unlocked does not move. If I use the key on the outside of the car the little tab does not go down or up. If I turn the key on the outside of the door to the lock position the tab tries to go down but doesn’t make it, however if I hold the key in the cylinder in fully lock position, the door handle does not open the door. So basically there’s nothing I can do to get that little lock tab at the end of the cable which signals the door is locked or unlocked to go down. Even taking the door apart I cannot force that tab down into its housing. All the other doors and locks work fine. Any ideas? Thank you for your time and consideration
Did you get a reply or a way to fix this? I have the same symptoms!
Thank. Useful for european too. Im finnish. Not so goog in engish. Very good video. I did change my lock with these.
Great walkthrough
Thanks 👍!
Awesome video. I need to do this and my friend told me that it was easy. This is not easy even tho you made it seem easy but if I take my time and do what you did... I'll be fine. Thanks for the great video.
Yeah what he means is easy for guys who work on cars as a hobby or a job lol. I'm watching these videos and all looks complicated just to even take the parts out. Not to mention to find out what's wrong
Simply THE BEST!!!!
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
I have one of those craftstman flathead screwdrivers. Great job as always Dave! man that door panel got a few SMA reach arounds!
lol, yep lots of SMA reach arounds on this one! Thanks Mike!
Thank you
You a good teacher !! Thanks
Awesome detail! Thank you!!
Thanks for the comment 👍!
Hello Sr. Thank you for learning.
Thanks for this excellent vid! 32:52... I didn't see a link to the door screws for the 2004 as you mentioned you'd list.
Thanks for the comment! This should be the part number for the door latch screws (of course always double check): Honda 90103-S7S-003, Screw, Flat (6X18.5)
*Parts and Tools*
Disclosure: This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you.
Driver's (Left) Side Door Lock Actuator 72155-SDA-A01: amzn.to/3i8TbYR
Driver's (Left) Door Cable 72171-SDA-A02: amzn.to/2ECiUeM
Passenger (Right) Side Door Lock Actuator 72115-SDA-A01: amzn.to/3cvevXo
Passenger (Right) Door Cable 72131-SDA-A02: amzn.to/3ib3MCY
Door Latch Screws Honda Part # 90103-S7S-003, Screw, Flat (6X18.5)
My favorite little screwdriver: amzn.to/3i8b36i
Vessel #2 Screwdriver: amzn.to/304oYnR
Vessel Screwdriver Set: amzn.to/334B6XM
All Weather Tape: amzn.to/3j9hkzS
AESWave uTest Lead Kit: bit.ly/2O7Iuea
Test Light: amzn.to/3cudTl0
Long Needle Nose Pliers Set: amzn.to/3cxImhX
Knipex Bent Tip Pliers: amzn.to/2GdnPD7
Milwaukee M18 1/4" Driver: amzn.to/308a0x7
JIS #3 Bit: amzn.to/30bvNnH
Work light: amzn.to/330HoYy
Original JB Weld: amzn.to/30abaYP
The Big Dog 50001 Automotive Channel Store can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/bigdog50001automotive
BIG DOG Another great video!Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you!
Great video helped to do it myself, thank you
Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!
@BigDog50001: I got mine done. Folloed step by step. I appreciate you!!!😊
A well done video. Please do more.
👍
Be sure to subscribe for more tool and car repair videos!
ua-cam.com/users/BigDog50001
twitter.com/BigDog50001
instagram.com/bigdog50001/
Disclosure: This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you.
The Big Dog 50001 Automotive Channel Store can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/bigdog50001automotive
Just what I needed! Thank you for this video.
👍
Good job dude 🎉
Thanks 👍!
Hello, I just watched your video and I learned a lot, thank you for that, can you tell me what is the name of the cable where the door lock is activated, the one that is like a screw at the end?
Dave as always your videos are excellent. Now concerning Honda wiring connector pin sizes are the pins a known certain size or is it just using common sense as to what adapter fits and of course what doesn’t. I like that AES wave adapter kit. Another tool.YES. Now back to the video. Started the comment half way through so I don’t forget my question. You know what age does to the brain Lol. Also just took another ATG advanced electrical diagnostics course. Have to stay busy. Thanks buddy for sharing your knowledge. Artie 😊😊😊
I have several sizes that I seem to use all the time but I just eyeball them and use common sense, and if I am not sure I will start with a smaller size so I don't do any damage. Thanks for the comment Artie!
What lubircation shoul be used on the door lock it self. I though mu actuators where no good must on 1 door it woudl work in the morning but not after.
Nice work Brother good informative video is the part 2 of the diag video?
Yes, this is 2nd part of the diagnostic vid seen here: ua-cam.com/video/G_T1vs8JShU/v-deo.html
If I replace the actuator in the driver door will it make all my doors lock? all my doors unlock with the panel and the key but it doesn't lock with the panel or the key.
I need to do this, with the door locked shut. any tips or ideas?
Door vapor barriers are a pain in the desert with the heat they are eaither gooy or stringy or just hard and brital i agree
Any difference between the passenger side actuator and the REAR passenger side? I need the REAR passenger side actuator.
Thank you SO MUCH for your videos!!!! I’m almost done with this. However, I made a mistake and stripped the screws on the door jamb that holds the door actuator in place. Do you know the part number for these screws? Tips for removing the stripped screw? It’s about to rain and I’m desperate to trying to put everything together
I enjoyed part one ☝️ I’m not good with wiring schematics but your explanation made sense. From what I understand power for door locks and windows goes threw the master window switch assembly. I’m having trouble with my locks and windows. My trouble shooting switch at each door for windows works but not always at master switches. So that tells me it needs replaced. I can also run drivers window with key on or off at any time so it must have a short. Before I replace the lock actuator I’m going to start with the window switch. I’m working on a 2003 Honda CR-V
Hopefully I explained it correctly and understood your direction. Let me know please
Helpful vid, thanks for posting it!
Glad it helped, thanks for the comment!
I learned, on those connectors for the window switches, if u push them in all the way before pressing the little tab they come right out.
That can help sometimes, thanks for the input!
I have a 2003 accord but where did you find the OEM door actuator
I usually get my OEM Honda parts either online or locally from Honda dealers. Right now some parts are hard to find due to manufacturer shortages unfortunately.
Omg it's work, i'm from Việt Nam and I do it easy
is the driver side the left side or right side ? depending if you facing or in the car ?
What part do I need to replace if the door is not opening from the inside?
I can’t thank you enough!!!
Thanks for the comment 👍!
Thanks for the video helpful if this goes bad on my Honda Element
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WHat was the charge to the customer for this fiix??
For left back dor actuator it îs The same?
YO, "BIG 🐕", another fine video. I wish you had the video on the passenger side, my door locked while it was closed and will not 🔓 SMH, - UPDATE I rolled down the passenger side window, used my remote to unlock all the doors, when the actuator tried to move it upwards, I pulled the door lock & it unlocked!!! - I got the proper part and all the tools so my job to save $300 is ahead of me - any advice you could share I'd very much appreciate it fine sir, thanks again!!!
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@@BigDog50001 yeah but I just stripped the door well JIS screw bolts, use the same Milwaukee 1/4 impact driver with the proper bit & I sprayed PB blaster on it twice a week before. I do have Irwin extractor set so I guess I'm going to have to use that to get the stupid screws out
hey man! i have a question. a few months ago, whenever i would try to unlock my car with my key fob, the lock would slowly unlock instead of unlocking quickly. over time, it got slower and slower until it only worked intermittently and now it doesn't work at all. this happens with multiple key fobs. once i manually unlock the driver's side door, the key fob will unlock all other doors as normal. the inside lock/unlock button works just fine. all of this applies to both locking and unlocking the car. is this what i need to replace?
Yes
FWIW...There are these plastic tabs you can remove on the side of the door to help you see and attach (and detach) the rods from the door handle.
If I have to do all that . I'm changing the window and the door actuators. How much time did this take you .
Getting ready to do this surgery on the passenger side of 2005 Acura TSX which I think is the same as the accord. Absolutely the best video available on UA-cam to guide me. Your descriptive detail and excellent camera work is extremely helpful. Was thinking of bailing on this job but your video has made me determined. I started by attempting to remove the 3 exterior main screws of the actuator and ended up having to use an extractor on one of them but at least knew that before tackling the rest of the job. You mentioned that the passenger only has two rods. Any idea why? The least I can do is to subscribe!
Just finished this on the passenger side of a Acura 2005 TSX. Worked great. A couple of adds. Remember to take out the two screws on the armrest to remove the door panel. There is also a wire for the heated mirrors to disconnect There is also only 1 rod as it does not have a key access. Also I removed the glass retainer rod . Another poster on another video had said to try to remove it from the actuator but I found it awkward to get at that way. I used a multi meter to test to see if there was voltage coming to the wiring harness when you pressed the button. Also when testing the unit before re-assembly and putting the panel on it will not lock because the door needs to be closed for that to work. You can still hear the motor turning though to know your motor is spinning. No rod retainers broke on a 15 year old vehicle but different weather environment in Calgary Canada. Kinda fussy and fights you at most steps but take your time and you should be ok.
Wow. Didn’t think this would be that involved
Will this work on a 2018?
What do I need to do if the lock is binding? I can't move it up or down, so the door is permanently unlocked. Can I just spray some wd-40 on it?
Can you do a video of how you determined that this was the faulty part? Anyone has done that ? Like a step by step checklist on what needs to be checked until you get to that actuator part (i.e the most amount of manual work required to remove )
Because knowing me I'm afraid of causing more things to not work ( electric windows ) after I try to fix my doors not locking/ unlocking with a key.
Looks like that actuator was the first part then they started builder the door around it, so much stuff to remove before you could change it.
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What is the part number for the white clip at 22:05?
Will this work if the door won’t close?
Is it the same part number as the Japanese?
When I press lock or unlock button on my remote, the headlight flash, but I can’t unlock the car on lock the car.
500th like 👍 awesome
45:10 is important when putting the door back together. It messed me up for a little bit not realizing I forgot to put the plastic green piece in the correct spot
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I see all these videos on how to replace these lock actuators.. but nothing on how to actually open the door if the door is in the lock position and the lock actuator is broke so the door won’t unlock… once I figure this out I’ll definitely have to post on how to open a locked door that cannot be unlocked or opened from the inside/outside
It typically involves breaking things, like the door panel to gain access. Before breaking things, I try to bang on the inner door panel or on the outside near door handle with my hand (where I won't ding or damage the door) while pressing the unlock button multiple times (I also try pulling up/wiggling the door lock knob instead of banging on the panel too). What I am trying to do is get the lock actuator to work one last time and unlock the door without doing any damage (banging or shocking an electrical motor like a door lock actuator can cause it to work again). Sometimes this trick can work and if it does I would open the door immediately and get it fixed right away (don't close it or try to lock it again without at least removing inner door panel).
The Honda actuators are a ton cheaper for 2004 year then Toyota 4runner actuators from Toyota for a 2000 model toyota wants over 150 bucks a peice for them and the hatch door is over 240 for that one
Sometimes Toyota has ridiculous prices on OEM parts that's for sure!
Those screws for the actuator assembly strip extremely easily...
The vapor barrier is thinner than a trash bag!
I remember doing a lock actuator on a Honda and accidentally broke one of those ears off the cable😤those ears are so fragile😏
It happens a lot!
Those which design those devices, looks like they enjoy it complicating things instead
of make it simple, plus using the cheapest material plastic and to buy those parts are expensive, we as consumers are doomed.
What a screwed up design. Those engineers, too many Sake nights!
Good video, but he talks way too much. Alot of unnecessary information. Just get to the important parts please sir. Thanks for all you do buddy .
trim your videos. voiceover while you are doing the work. your video could be 1/4 the length...
That is not the way I do my videos. If you want to make videos that way, go for it.
Great vidio perfect work i just had mine done exactly same way same door drivers side.
You can always disconnect the negative battery terminal! Before starting the job 🫡.
I usually don't do that for jobs like these, I typically will do some electrical testing before and after replacement so I will need the power connected. And remember, whenever the battery is disconnected many models needs to have certain systems reset.
Thanks!
I missed this comment when it was posted, thank you for the support!!