In my younger years (a few decades ago), I did some screw-and-locknut adjustments, but I don't think I'd attempt messing with shims at any age. Here's a toast to your skill ... and patience. Very informative video, IMO, for those attempting to do this kind of maintenance.
Thanks you for the detailed video on the CB500X valve adjustment!! If I ever decide to do my own valve adjustment, I will use this video as a reminder to let the dealership do it...... 👍
🤣 I'll do a full teardown and tutorial with the CB500F soon. I'll be sure to have all the camera gear and a generous supply of Dos Equis ready before I start that adventure! 😉👍 --QM
That was really cool. I had never seen the roller rocker shimming proses. I hope the healing process continues to show improvement. I also hope the working in and riding of the motorcycles is found to be therapeutic for you. Thank you for more good videos. I thank God you're still here for your family. Edward in Irvine
This is a really great video for this process, surely good enough for someone looking at this job to know if they want to go through with it. I have a 2015 CB500F that I have neglected to check the valves on for too long (38k miles). My valve cover gasket is leaking and I need to change it, so I have to get almost to this point anyway. A local shop quoted me 2 days and $350 for the valve cover gasket alone, and up to an additional $200 if they have to adjust all of them with replacement shims. I'm thrifty and typically wrench on my own vehicles, but this is a fairly substantial process and I'm still on the fence about it. The tolerance being a range of 0.06mm with 0.05mm increment aftermarket shims available means one will surely work, but it'd be nice to not have to buy a whole kit. My other option is to order the needed shims after measurement, but the local dealers here are not great and I don't want to leave the bike disassembled for a week. I have a Grom I could commute on, but the 500 is my daily since my normal route involves some highways. Perhaps calling other shops for quotes would be a good idea first.
Thanks for watching and leaving feedback! This process isn't difficult if you're mechanically inclined, but it is tedious and time-consuming. If you can afford the downtime, doing the process yourself and ordering the specific valve shims is the cheapest option. I prefer to have a complete set of replacement shims in advance to minimize the wait. If you can't afford the downtime, then paying a shop ~$500 for the maintenance is painful but somewhat reasonable... especially considering the labor involved. Good luck with the project! 😉👍 --QM
Me before starting video: Quasi is doing a video and I paid a shop to do this work, maybe I should've done it myself. Me 1 minute in: OK, maybe paying for it was the right thing to do.
🤣 Yep... that job is a pain in the a$$! I'm sure my neighbors were wondering who wandered into the neighborhood and had a Tourette's attack... all the screaming, cursing, and throwing tools around! 🤬😂👍 --QM
Thanks for sharing this video about taking apart your bike! I need do that to because my emergency brake cable need be replaced and next need check the valve job too! Mr Aaron 🍺🍺
GREAT video! Love these gear-head vids Aaron! Watching someone else do this stuff is fun for me etc. Glad you're out and about and up and movin' etc. Blessings!@
Nice Job looks challenging. I also have a 500 x with about same miles i think this summer i will dig in and thanks for making the video It will be helpful Cheers
it looks like since we didn't get to ride up and check out the eclipse we both decided to work on our stuff. i spent 30 minutes changing 7 plugs on my truck yesterday and 6 hours today just trying to get number 2 plug out of it. OMG what a nightmare. plus i had to buy a $100 special tool to get it out and most likely wont ever use it again.
Great video, very helpful for anyone doing this. A comment/question, if the shims are marked on one side that side should go down, and, a bit of grease to hold them in place.
I watched another video on the same subject: Valve adj on a CB500X (or F)...and I came to the conclusion.....pay someone to do it. I'll change my oil, brake fluid and coolant...but that's where I stop. My big question is: Why do these engines need a valve adjustment? Modern engines (especially Honda/Kawi/Suzuki/Yamaha) still need a valve adj? How come the auto world doesn't talk about this? I never hear anything about modern car engines needing this type of maintenance.
Howdy, John! Those are good questions, and I've often wondered the same things. The primary difference between automotive and motorcycle valvetrains is the use of hydraulic valve lifters vs mechanical (direct) lifters. Hydraulic lifters use oil-filled cylinders to damp the motion between the camshaft and valve stems, and this system self-adjusts over time to compensate for wear. Mechanical lifters have direct contact between the rocker arms and the valve stems, so these need periodic adjustment to compensate for valve wear. Automotive engines have larger displacements and generally don't rev as high as motorcycle engines, so they can afford to lose some power/efficiency in the valve train. Hydraulic lifters create parasitic loss in the engine due to pumping losses and heat conversion in the oil cavities. Hydraulic lifters also have problems with valve "float" under high-RPM operation, so that also makes them less desireable for smaller engines that NEED to rev in order to make decent power. Motorcycle engines are smaller and produce less power, so hydraulic valve lifters incur too much loss for those applications. The simplest mainstream mechanical lifter is the tappet-style, where the rocker arm connects between the camshaft and the valve stem. This is most commonly seen in air-cooled engines where the tolerances are larger and wear rates are typically higher than water-cooled engines. The valve stem side of the rocker has a screw-type adjuster with a lock nut to hold its position. These tappets must be adjusted periodically to maintain sufficient valve clearance as the engine ages. Shim-type lifters are just as common as tappets, but they are generally found only in water-cooled engines where the tolerances are tighter and the wear rates are lower. The rocker arm has a fixed face or roller instead of a screw adjuster. The valve stem is topped with a hardened-steel "shim" of a certain thickness. Over time, the valves will wear into the seats in the cylinder head, and that reduces the clearance between the valve stem and the rocker arm. The valve shims need to be replaced with THINNER shims to maintain proper clearance (closure) for the valves. Anyway... that's the long discussion of why motorcycle engines rarely have hydraulic/automatic valve lifters. You can find more research material here, if you're interested: www.motorcycle.com/ask-mo-anything/ask-mo-anything-why-dont-more-motorcycles-use-hydraulic-valve-lifters.html . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
B@@QuasiMotardGreat explanation and really like your video. Shimming seems a pain but doable. I'm still thinking of buying this bike, is it reliable and good on the highway?
@stoicwarrior346 Thanks for the feedback! Yes, the CB500X is a very competent and reliable machine. I use it for commuting and long-distance trips because it's efficient and has almost 300-mile range per tank of fuel. Here is a recent video from my 3000+ mile cross-country trip: ua-cam.com/video/duZNnsnp4eI/v-deo.html . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
No, unfortunately, I couldn't go on the Eclipse trip. My CB500X was down for this maintenance, and my back wasn't ready for 1000+ miles on the Rebel 1100. I also had some family stuff happening Thursday-Saturday, so that took precedence. I feel terrible because I said that I was going on the trip, and several people made plans to meet with me. 🤦♂️😢 --QM
In my younger years (a few decades ago), I did some screw-and-locknut adjustments, but I don't think I'd attempt messing with shims at any age. Here's a toast to your skill ... and patience. Very informative video, IMO, for those attempting to do this kind of maintenance.
Thanks you for the detailed video on the CB500X valve adjustment!! If I ever decide to do my own valve adjustment, I will use this video as a reminder to let the dealership do it...... 👍
🤣 I'll do a full teardown and tutorial with the CB500F soon. I'll be sure to have all the camera gear and a generous supply of Dos Equis ready before I start that adventure! 😉👍 --QM
Great video. No way would I go digging that deep into my bike. Good job!
That was really cool. I had never seen the roller rocker shimming proses. I hope the healing process continues to show improvement. I also hope the working in and riding of the motorcycles is found to be therapeutic for you. Thank you for more good videos. I thank God you're still here for your family. Edward in Irvine
This is a really great video for this process, surely good enough for someone looking at this job to know if they want to go through with it. I have a 2015 CB500F that I have neglected to check the valves on for too long (38k miles). My valve cover gasket is leaking and I need to change it, so I have to get almost to this point anyway. A local shop quoted me 2 days and $350 for the valve cover gasket alone, and up to an additional $200 if they have to adjust all of them with replacement shims. I'm thrifty and typically wrench on my own vehicles, but this is a fairly substantial process and I'm still on the fence about it. The tolerance being a range of 0.06mm with 0.05mm increment aftermarket shims available means one will surely work, but it'd be nice to not have to buy a whole kit. My other option is to order the needed shims after measurement, but the local dealers here are not great and I don't want to leave the bike disassembled for a week. I have a Grom I could commute on, but the 500 is my daily since my normal route involves some highways. Perhaps calling other shops for quotes would be a good idea first.
Thanks for watching and leaving feedback! This process isn't difficult if you're mechanically inclined, but it is tedious and time-consuming. If you can afford the downtime, doing the process yourself and ordering the specific valve shims is the cheapest option. I prefer to have a complete set of replacement shims in advance to minimize the wait. If you can't afford the downtime, then paying a shop ~$500 for the maintenance is painful but somewhat reasonable... especially considering the labor involved. Good luck with the project! 😉👍 --QM
Me before starting video: Quasi is doing a video and I paid a shop to do this work, maybe I should've done it myself.
Me 1 minute in: OK, maybe paying for it was the right thing to do.
🤣 Yep... that job is a pain in the a$$! I'm sure my neighbors were wondering who wandered into the neighborhood and had a Tourette's attack... all the screaming, cursing, and throwing tools around! 🤬😂👍 --QM
But trusting someone else to put all that back in the correct places and well!!! Mmm not sure
Thanks for sharing this video about taking apart your bike! I need do that to because my emergency brake cable need be replaced and next need check the valve job too! Mr Aaron 🍺🍺
GREAT video! Love these gear-head vids Aaron! Watching someone else do this stuff is fun for me etc. Glad you're out and about and up and movin' etc. Blessings!@
Nice Job looks challenging. I also have a 500 x with about same miles i think this summer i will dig in and thanks for making the video It will be helpful Cheers
it looks like since we didn't get to ride up and check out the eclipse we both decided to work on our stuff. i spent 30 minutes changing 7 plugs on my truck yesterday and 6 hours today just trying to get number 2 plug out of it. OMG what a nightmare. plus i had to buy a $100 special tool to get it out and most likely wont ever use it again.
Thanks for letting us know how many miles on your spark plugs . Got 18,000 on mine, 2014 X, guess I will wait awhile longer to change them.
Great video, very helpful for anyone doing this. A comment/question, if the shims are marked on one side that side should go down, and, a bit of grease to hold them in place.
After my stint in the service, I made swearing a second language. But I don’t think even I have enough “fun words” to cover THAT job.
Looks very scary! Nope. I would be taking the bike back to the dealer in a box . . .
Plus Mr Aaron there's no bike shops touch my Piaggio because I took it Dirty Deeds bike shop and they said can't work on it!😅
Nice work Aaron.
I watched another video on the same subject: Valve adj on a CB500X (or F)...and I came to the conclusion.....pay someone to do it. I'll change my oil, brake fluid and coolant...but that's where I stop. My big question is: Why do these engines need a valve adjustment? Modern engines (especially Honda/Kawi/Suzuki/Yamaha) still need a valve adj? How come the auto world doesn't talk about this? I never hear anything about modern car engines needing this type of maintenance.
Howdy, John! Those are good questions, and I've often wondered the same things. The primary difference between automotive and motorcycle valvetrains is the use of hydraulic valve lifters vs mechanical (direct) lifters. Hydraulic lifters use oil-filled cylinders to damp the motion between the camshaft and valve stems, and this system self-adjusts over time to compensate for wear. Mechanical lifters have direct contact between the rocker arms and the valve stems, so these need periodic adjustment to compensate for valve wear.
Automotive engines have larger displacements and generally don't rev as high as motorcycle engines, so they can afford to lose some power/efficiency in the valve train. Hydraulic lifters create parasitic loss in the engine due to pumping losses and heat conversion in the oil cavities. Hydraulic lifters also have problems with valve "float" under high-RPM operation, so that also makes them less desireable for smaller engines that NEED to rev in order to make decent power. Motorcycle engines are smaller and produce less power, so hydraulic valve lifters incur too much loss for those applications.
The simplest mainstream mechanical lifter is the tappet-style, where the rocker arm connects between the camshaft and the valve stem. This is most commonly seen in air-cooled engines where the tolerances are larger and wear rates are typically higher than water-cooled engines. The valve stem side of the rocker has a screw-type adjuster with a lock nut to hold its position. These tappets must be adjusted periodically to maintain sufficient valve clearance as the engine ages.
Shim-type lifters are just as common as tappets, but they are generally found only in water-cooled engines where the tolerances are tighter and the wear rates are lower. The rocker arm has a fixed face or roller instead of a screw adjuster. The valve stem is topped with a hardened-steel "shim" of a certain thickness. Over time, the valves will wear into the seats in the cylinder head, and that reduces the clearance between the valve stem and the rocker arm. The valve shims need to be replaced with THINNER shims to maintain proper clearance (closure) for the valves.
Anyway... that's the long discussion of why motorcycle engines rarely have hydraulic/automatic valve lifters. You can find more research material here, if you're interested: www.motorcycle.com/ask-mo-anything/ask-mo-anything-why-dont-more-motorcycles-use-hydraulic-valve-lifters.html . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Sorry I asked! (ha ha!) Thanks for the long explanation.
B@@QuasiMotardGreat explanation and really like your video.
Shimming seems a pain but doable.
I'm still thinking of buying this bike, is it reliable and good on the highway?
@stoicwarrior346 Thanks for the feedback! Yes, the CB500X is a very competent and reliable machine. I use it for commuting and long-distance trips because it's efficient and has almost 300-mile range per tank of fuel.
Here is a recent video from my 3000+ mile cross-country trip: ua-cam.com/video/duZNnsnp4eI/v-deo.html . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
The NC750X is peanuts compared to the CB500X
The eclipse happened just a few hours ago,so im guessing you didn't go ahead with the plan to go to Arkansas?
No, unfortunately, I couldn't go on the Eclipse trip. My CB500X was down for this maintenance, and my back wasn't ready for 1000+ miles on the Rebel 1100. I also had some family stuff happening Thursday-Saturday, so that took precedence.
I feel terrible because I said that I was going on the trip, and several people made plans to meet with me. 🤦♂️😢 --QM
So if I'm hearing you right what you're saying is make friends with someone who knows how to work on motorcycles...or pay someone to do it. lol
second!
first