only reason I came here was to see if you ran into the same problem I did 🤣my bolts were so seized up it actually ripped apart the insides it was threatened to the subframe on these cars is not any funner. great video👍
I have this same car. I had to cut out the rear motor mount. A rear bolt on the driver side sway bar bushing is frozen, and no way to wrench it that tight space. So, there's a good chance I will be cutting this control arm. I'm thinking about spraying these newly installed parts with PB blaster rust preventer. The original bolts also seem like soft steel, because they will round off very easy. I do love this car
Hey great video. I just happened to notice you put the sway bar link on wrong when u put everything back together. If you look at the before and after, you can see one of the rubber grommets goes on the top, not in the middle. Just happened to notice. Great video!
Tried to remove my control arm on my '02 Saab 9-3, holy cow. I had a 25" breaker bar on the bolt and I propped the handle up with a piece of wood and kicked the handle, it took about 10 kicks to break it loose. It was really awkward laying half under the car kicking the breaker bar, but it worked. Also once I got the bolt out it was rusted half way through, it's a miracle it didn't just twist off and stay in the car (which I've read is a semi-common problem for that model). That would have been a bad, bad day.
Man that's crazy! Unfortunately I didn't get to see my bolt, it never came out of the bushing! Yeah one of my nightmares is either having a bolt break off in the body, or stripping the threads.
When removing the temperal transceiver does the small rebigulater conect to the univerasal magneto duhicky inducer spacer gravity bar nut bolt screw fcuker? Thanks for the quick reply! 😎👍
Wait till you do driver side! Faster and easier to cut that sway bar link off with a sawzall and to use a long piece of pipe along with you breaker bar when removing those bolts. Good instructional video
You don't have to thread the nut back onto the bolt to protect the threads while hitting it with a hammer. That is why there is a nipple on the end of that Bolt. So when you hit that bolt you hit the end of that nipple and it doesn't even touch the threads in the first place.
hi there and thanks for the videos they are really helpful. i have a 2002 lancer ls and every time i go over some sort of bump the car rattles really hard. i just replaced the sway bar end links and out er tie rods but i dont know if i need new struts, ball joints, or inner tie rods- or just an alignment?
Question!! Do we need to compress the strut spring to do this? Is there too much tension without it? I have a spring compressor, but there's no room to use it..
hello, wanted to ask mr. MattMotorz would you happen to know the size of the bolt for the control arm? the bolt that is by the oil filter on the 2002 mitsubishi lancer? it was just my luck that one of the lower control arm bolts is stripped.
MattsMotorz ok lol, i was hoping you did know lol. i actually go to school for PCI (automotive) and i stripped it wishing i didnt lol well anyway good video you made for replacing front lower control arms
Thanks! If you call the dealer and describe which bolt it is, or better yet, go in and look at their diagrams, they can tell you what the size is. I have done that before. Good luck with that stripped bolt!
That bolt beside the oil filter has a nut on the end of it that you cant see! If the bolt and nut at seized, you will need to remove tack welds or cut the sheet metal away to expose the nut, and work from there. Hope this helps someone, we just did one last night!
MattsMotorz I have a 92 Diamante LS, and I somehow snapped one of the legs(arms?) on the right control arm, are there any major differences in the procedure I should be aware of before I get started? just curious. (PS: I have a crutchfield service manual, but I'm trying to learn as much as I can since the replacement control arm wont be here for a few days, and I'm lucky to be able to change tires and oil, lol)
My eclipse snapped one of the bolts off. While driving it failed. Causing 900$ of towing and shop fees. Fucking pisses me off. I sold the tucker. Now I just own the 2003 eclipse
Hi, how much work is required to lower the sub frame enough to cut that bolt? I tested the bolts while changing my brakes to see if it was something I would run into. Now im debating if I want to go through this hassle.
Don't know if you still have the Lancer I know this is an old thread but I still have my 2003 and I will tell you I rather pull the engine then drop that subframe
What is real stearing fluid in mistubishi lancer 2010 model can you please help me im used Dextron3 atf i think that's not a better choise so please help me
+Skylinegtr34lover1 Don't know. I just went to the dealer for the new bolt. It was way more expensive than it should have been but I didn't want to deal with the hassle of finding the right size bolt. (I think it was like 18 bucks or something)
u basically did the easy side driver side is harder. would like too see how u got the side bolt off on the driver side. A socket does not fit in the area and the bolt seem too long to be pulled out.
Could you show a moderate video or explanation of the rear side alignment parts of your car? I have a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer ES 1.6L Automatic & my tires are getting bold from the inside thread, my outside outer thread is ok. Thank You Awaiting For Your Prosperous Response from You Or Anyone Please...
It should be the same as the 02. You normally do not replace the joints, you would just replace the whole axle. Axles are so cheap now a days and it is a LOT more work to replace joints. I am actually going to make a video on this in the next couple of weeks.
sweet mine just started clicking today but only when going over bumps, not when turning or driving straight. Ericthecarguy said that it could last awhile like that. What's your opinion?
Cool video Matt. Maybe you shouldn't have sprayed WD40 in the bushing. And only sprayed the nut and left it for a day. Failing that the only other method I've seen is to Oxy the bushing out and replace it. That way you keep the control arm.
As much as I would like to oblige it wouldn't be worth my investment since the vehicle has good rear control arms. It takes a lot of time to get a return on a video. But if they ever go then ill make one for sure! One thing I can say is it will probably be about the same difficulty as this video, maybe a little easier since you don't have to deal with the ball joint.
any chance you have the part # for that bolt you had to cut out? My car has alot more rust than yours and I can almost guarantee its going to be a pain to get it out. Ive searched all over the net for a part number and none of the diagrams I find mention the part #. great vid, thanks.
No way, not in this case. I've seen my share of rusty bolts and when penetrating oil works and when it doesn't (WD40 is not a very good penetrating oil btw compared to others). Even after cutting the bolt and bushing up, the bushing was STILL seized to it. The lesson is to ALWAYS put antiseize on any through bolts in suspension systems.
I have a 2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse my car keep fish talent because it was hit I got a new spindle install but my car says Talent can anybody give me any insight on any advice
only reason I came here was to see if you ran into the same problem I did 🤣my bolts were so seized up it actually ripped apart the insides it was threatened to the subframe on these cars is not any funner. great video👍
Great video! I've got an '04 Ralliart Sportback and I'm looking to go DIY on repairs and maintenance. Thanks for making this!
The sway bar link bushings are not properly installed.
true
+DigitalYojimbo Super late reply, but I put an annotation up awhile ago saying just that.
It's true,
very true
I have this same car. I had to cut out the rear motor mount. A rear bolt on the driver side sway bar bushing is frozen, and no way to wrench it that tight space. So, there's a good chance I will be cutting this control arm. I'm thinking about spraying these newly installed parts with PB blaster rust preventer. The original bolts also seem like soft steel, because they will round off very easy. I do love this car
+tim prater Use antiseize for the new parts.
Hey great video. I just happened to notice you put the sway bar link on wrong when u put everything back together. If you look at the before and after, you can see one of the rubber grommets goes on the top, not in the middle. Just happened to notice. Great video!
Tried to remove my control arm on my '02 Saab 9-3, holy cow. I had a 25" breaker bar on the bolt and I propped the handle up with a piece of wood and kicked the handle, it took about 10 kicks to break it loose. It was really awkward laying half under the car kicking the breaker bar, but it worked. Also once I got the bolt out it was rusted half way through, it's a miracle it didn't just twist off and stay in the car (which I've read is a semi-common problem for that model). That would have been a bad, bad day.
Man that's crazy! Unfortunately I didn't get to see my bolt, it never came out of the bushing! Yeah one of my nightmares is either having a bolt break off in the body, or stripping the threads.
at least your video is real and shows its hard to work on this shit and other people video the bolts are pre lose lol
When removing the temperal transceiver does the small rebigulater conect to the univerasal magneto duhicky inducer spacer gravity bar nut bolt screw fcuker? Thanks for the quick reply! 😎👍
You have to get the doohickey out of your mouth before you type .
Wait till you do driver side! Faster and easier to cut that sway bar link off with a sawzall and to use a long piece of pipe along with you breaker bar when removing those bolts. Good instructional video
You don't have to thread the nut back onto the bolt to protect the threads while hitting it with a hammer. That is why there is a nipple on the end of that Bolt. So when you hit that bolt you hit the end of that nipple and it doesn't even touch the threads in the first place.
hi there and thanks for the videos they are really helpful.
i have a 2002 lancer ls and every time i go over some sort of bump the car rattles really hard.
i just replaced the sway bar end links and out er tie rods but i dont know if i need new struts, ball joints, or inner tie rods-
or just an alignment?
Do you have to get an alignment after changing the control arms and sway bar on both sides?
Question!! Do we need to compress the strut spring to do this? Is there too much tension without it? I have a spring compressor, but there's no room to use it..
hello, wanted to ask mr. MattMotorz would you happen to know the size of the bolt for the control arm? the bolt that is by the oil filter on the 2002 mitsubishi lancer? it was just my luck that one of the lower control arm bolts is stripped.
I wish I could tell yah but I honestly do not remember!
MattsMotorz
ok lol, i was hoping you did know lol. i actually go to school for PCI (automotive) and i stripped it wishing i didnt lol well anyway good video you made for replacing front lower control arms
Thanks!
If you call the dealer and describe which bolt it is, or better yet, go in and look at their diagrams, they can tell you what the size is. I have done that before.
Good luck with that stripped bolt!
Thanks guy I appreciate it
That bolt beside the oil filter has a nut on the end of it that you cant see! If the bolt and nut at seized, you will need to remove tack welds or cut the sheet metal away to expose the nut, and work from there.
Hope this helps someone, we just did one last night!
Torque specs ? How tight should you leave them?
Can you replace the balljoints without replacing the whole control arm???
cringy were you able to replace the balljoints only?
@@vernelmader5403 you can but it takes mor time because you need to use a press and if you take it to a mechanic they will charge you more
Hi Matt thanks for the video I want to know were did you bought the bolt for the control arm
Had to go to the dealer for that one.
@@MattsMotorz do you have the part number for the bolt and the nut by any chance? all I can find is the bolt for the rear
Hey umm.. you reinstalled the bushings for the sway bar ends wrong...
MattsMotorz I have a 92 Diamante LS, and I somehow snapped one of the legs(arms?) on the right control arm, are there any major differences in the procedure I should be aware of before I get started? just curious.
(PS: I have a crutchfield service manual, but I'm trying to learn as much as I can since the replacement control arm wont be here for a few days, and I'm lucky to be able to change tires and oil, lol)
My eclipse snapped one of the bolts off. While driving it failed. Causing 900$ of towing and shop fees. Fucking pisses me off. I sold the tucker. Now I just own the 2003 eclipse
Hi, how much work is required to lower the sub frame enough to cut that bolt? I tested the bolts while changing my brakes to see if it was something I would run into. Now im debating if I want to go through this hassle.
Don't know if you still have the Lancer I know this is an old thread but I still have my 2003 and I will tell you I rather pull the engine then drop that subframe
What is real stearing fluid in mistubishi lancer 2010 model can you please help me im used Dextron3 atf i think that's not a better choise so please help me
hey man what was the thread pitch and length l for that bolt
+Skylinegtr34lover1 Don't know. I just went to the dealer for the new bolt. It was way more expensive than it should have been but I didn't want to deal with the hassle of finding the right size bolt. (I think it was like 18 bucks or something)
m14x1.5x12cm
u basically did the easy side driver side is harder. would like too see how u got the side bolt off on the driver side. A socket does not fit in the area and the bolt seem too long to be pulled out.
Could you show a moderate video or explanation of the rear side alignment parts of your car? I have a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer ES 1.6L Automatic & my tires are getting bold from the inside thread, my outside outer thread is ok.
Thank You Awaiting For Your Prosperous Response from You Or Anyone Please...
The washer and bushings is in the wrong order for the link sway bar.
How easy is it to replace CV joints on a 2003 lancer? I think it's mostly the same car as the 02
It should be the same as the 02. You normally do not replace the joints, you would just replace the whole axle. Axles are so cheap now a days and it is a LOT more work to replace joints.
I am actually going to make a video on this in the next couple of weeks.
sweet mine just started clicking today but only when going over bumps, not when turning or driving straight. Ericthecarguy said that it could last awhile like that. What's your opinion?
Yeah I agree with that. You can last a pretty long time. I should have the video out in a couple weeks!
That bolt decided that your day should be long.
Cool video Matt. Maybe you shouldn't have sprayed WD40 in the bushing. And only sprayed the nut and left it for a day. Failing that the only other method I've seen is to Oxy the bushing out and replace it. That way you keep the control arm.
What does "Oxy" mean, fella?
the bolts just spinning on the side ways one. in the frame.
i think something broke off in the frame. i cut out?
Very helpful, thank you
Thanks Matt
great job
Hey do you have the change both left and right at the same time or can you just change one side.
You can just do one. Although some people are really against that and say you should do both. I am not one of those people.
How do you do the rear lower arms? can you do a video on that? :)
As much as I would like to oblige it wouldn't be worth my investment since the vehicle has good rear control arms. It takes a lot of time to get a return on a video. But if they ever go then ill make one for sure!
One thing I can say is it will probably be about the same difficulty as this video, maybe a little easier since you don't have to deal with the ball joint.
Nice job man
+James'sWorld Thanks!
Thanks man!
any chance you have the part # for that bolt you had to cut out? My car has alot more rust than yours and I can almost guarantee its going to be a pain to get it out. Ive searched all over the net for a part number and none of the diagrams I find mention the part #. great vid, thanks.
I got this part on rockauto.com Their catalog is really easy to search through for the parts you need.
Ive searched through everything on there still no luck.
Oh the bolt!! Sorry I misread your comment. For the bolt, I had to go to the dealer. I think the new one was like 20 bucks.
okay cool, thanks man. I kinda figured it would be one of those parts, I like to avoid the dealership at all cost, figuratively and literally. lol.
I can find a part# if you still need one.
Alright so imma need help finding that bold “we” had to cut off so that I may get a new one 😂
Anyone at all know where I can find the correct bolt he cut?
When did you realize you put the stabilizer bar link back together wrong? The bar goes between the two bushings.
Ha! I didn't even notice! I'll have to go back and fix it / put up an annotation. It was a LONG day when filming this. Thanks!
No problem. With how hard that bolt was to get out I could see being a little scrambled. Also great videos. No offense on my comment either.
None taken!
i did notice that too. i thought to check anybody else have noticed before i comment it.
You didn’t put the sway bushing back on correctly. You need to put a rubber bushing above and below the sway bar.
I saw that too, I’m like wait a minute…
If you jacked the control arm and apply WD40 and let it penetrate for a while, you wouldve gotten that bolt out with ease. Just saying.
No way, not in this case. I've seen my share of rusty bolts and when penetrating oil works and when it doesn't (WD40 is not a very good penetrating oil btw compared to others). Even after cutting the bolt and bushing up, the bushing was STILL seized to it.
The lesson is to ALWAYS put antiseize on any through bolts in suspension systems.
I have a 2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse my car keep fish talent because it was hit I got a new spindle install but my car says Talent can anybody give me any insight on any advice
And I have a mitsubishi lancer es
That control arm is a BIT©H, that happen to me on my 2006 Mazda 3, I just used a longer breaker bar and I got it free.