HOW TO DEAL WITH FEAR || BIG WAVE SURFING || EXPLAINED

Поділитися
Вставка
  • Опубліковано 2 січ 2025

КОМЕНТАРІ • 131

  • @bi0008
    @bi0008 3 роки тому +19

    A free driving champion told me once to practice holding my breathe as I'm paddling back out after a wave to simulate breathe holds while your muscles are firing and pumped with lactic acid. Works well, especially when you have limited time for rock running etc..

    • @discountedcashflows
      @discountedcashflows 2 місяці тому

      Lol don’t do that if you’re padding into a big set.

  • @markl4143
    @markl4143 3 роки тому +39

    When you coming to Ireland....we'd love to have you and the florence's♥️♥️🇮🇪🇮🇪🤙🤙🤙🌊🌊🌊

  • @Thalesaraujophotos
    @Thalesaraujophotos 3 роки тому +12

    Nice to see the tips and specially the part "Big waves could be 6 to 8 feet for you" .
    I' m from Rio de Janeiro and train a lot for the specials days when we have 12 feet in home breaks.

    • @theAussie01
      @theAussie01 3 роки тому +2

      Keep charging brother.
      Aloha from Oz,
      Merewether
      Australia🇦🇺
      The Rip Curl Pro is on here now at my local 🤟💗🇦🇺🏄🌊💪

    • @fapuccino7575
      @fapuccino7575 3 роки тому +2

      Im going to rio Thursday for surf (I'm not from brazil). Which website u use for surf report ?

    • @theAussie01
      @theAussie01 3 роки тому

      @@fapuccino7575 enjoy your trip to Rio🤟🌴

    • @fapuccino7575
      @fapuccino7575 3 роки тому

      @@theAussie01 right now, im in Rio🤘🤘

  • @timothysheehan
    @timothysheehan 3 роки тому +8

    Thank you Koa,you give me so much inspiration- I am a recent "amputee",lost my right leg to "Pyoderma Gangrenosum" eight months ago,and I may loose the left one as well.Please keep me in your prayers-thank you Koa...

  • @thebread9
    @thebread9 3 роки тому +64

    I get so scared looking down a 3-5 foot wave I feel like I’m falling from a tree. I’m getting over it though I just gotta remember that at the end of the day getting pounded is part of the game

    • @MrKingpenguin123
      @MrKingpenguin123 3 роки тому +8

      pause

    • @mark2talk2u
      @mark2talk2u 3 роки тому +10

      Damn ... let @thebread9 be honest and open. No need to try to shoot down the post.
      Hats off to @thebread9 for sharing !!!

    • @johnp2340
      @johnp2340 3 роки тому +8

      Most of the haters are usually the biggest kooks! Thanks for sharing and good comment

    • @johnp2340
      @johnp2340 3 роки тому +2

      @Hippity Hoppity with a name like hippity Hoppity we all know how you like to hip and hop up to clean the wax off all the longboards😂😂ooops your secret is out now hop n knob

    • @tylerbeaman6913
      @tylerbeaman6913 3 роки тому +4

      bro same i usually only surf like 2-3/2-4 so anything bigger is so fuxking scary

  • @upsidedahead
    @upsidedahead 3 роки тому +1

    Great info Koa 🤙
    After getting couple big bombs on a cyclone swell, I eventually got tired. As the tide dropped out, I drifted down to a section where the waves were really amplifying. Then the set came, and I was way inside- just flippers and handplane, legit 15ft low tide closeout.
    I got sooooooo flogged, 30 second, two wave hold down and smashed into the sand. Thank goodness there wasn’t a third wave in that set, and I didn’t drown!!! Instead I got a breath, got my bearings, and got myself back to shore. Learnt a lot that day, that’s for sure

  • @Growninfaith
    @Growninfaith 3 роки тому +4

    Thanks Jack and Koa for creating such amazing quality content with so many take always!! Yup, I’m still one of your numba 1 fans!!! & I purchased one of your This is Livin hoodies, by far one of the comfiest hoodies I’ve ever owned!!! MAHALO BOIS!!!!!!

  • @marcelguarachi
    @marcelguarachi 2 роки тому +1

    Back in 1988 or so when I started i got clobbered in some surf that I shouldn’t have been surfing. and ever since then I knew there was a limit. I agree training is so important

  • @barrywood7452
    @barrywood7452 3 роки тому +11

    I love watching you and Nate surfing big waves. I'm 68 now and have never surfed any waves over 10 to 12 feet in my 55 years of surfing. I would love to surf those bombs with you guys. Stay safe, stay healthy and when those XXL swells come you'll all be in my prayers.😎

    • @_RaymondMiller_
      @_RaymondMiller_ 3 роки тому

      im 16 and just getting into surfing you got any tips

    • @erwinau3807
      @erwinau3807 3 роки тому +1

      The old saying goes 10 to 12 feet is fun, anything beyond that it's called survival 🤣🤣🤣🤙🤙 just amazing how the gear has progressed over the years as well as the use of jet skis to help keep everyone a little safer. But the one common thing still remains is everyone look out for each other.

    • @upsidedahead
      @upsidedahead 3 роки тому

      Barry Wood go !!!!

    • @meyburgh
      @meyburgh 3 роки тому

      Thats great Barry! Many people would like to know how to keep surfing longer. I spoke to Bruce Gold of J-bay and his tip was push-up into downward dog style stretch. Blessings.

  • @JeffAllenVlogs
    @JeffAllenVlogs 3 роки тому +12

    I'll be happy living through Koa for all my big wave experiences! SO awesome! Great video!

  • @afatty322
    @afatty322 3 роки тому +5

    You know it's a good day with a new this is livin vlog!!!!!👍👍👍 mentally I'm ready to surf, still working on losing weight, hopefully another 6 weeks I'll be out there yeeeeew👍👍👍

  • @nicolasrodriguez5971
    @nicolasrodriguez5971 3 роки тому

    your wave at the eddie with kala and makua falling behind is amazing

  • @lairdherron8202
    @lairdherron8202 3 роки тому

    such a sick toob at 6:11 -- awesome vid Koa!!

  • @felichia808
    @felichia808 3 роки тому +2

    Always great to see a new video from you. Surf safe! Mahalo!

  • @EmperorNerox
    @EmperorNerox 3 роки тому +12

    You forgot to answer that surfing big slabs takes massive steel balls and that the ordinary man doesn't have them. Only a select few .

  • @nathanmurley6293
    @nathanmurley6293 3 роки тому +25

    Lmao Nathan Florance would be the one to casually talk about “exploding vests” in the tsa line 😂 major kook alert

  • @judyivie4181
    @judyivie4181 3 роки тому

    Your a educator. You certainly are a class act.

  • @jeremystinky9315
    @jeremystinky9315 2 роки тому +1

    Not really scared of surfing it but the paddle out I'm terrified of

  • @ODL957
    @ODL957 3 роки тому +1

    Hi Koa thanks for sharing, well done, next time can you go over your craziest wipe out and talk about those, how violent they were and also cover how does it feel to have a big wave break in front of you and not being able to duck dive.

  • @theAussie01
    @theAussie01 3 роки тому +1

    This was very informative and interesting.
    Thanks KOA🤟

  • @gunnerskale6232
    @gunnerskale6232 3 роки тому +3

    Crazy, thank you for the Q&A

  • @habangolf
    @habangolf Рік тому

    So much appreciation towards what you do bro. Stay strong 💪

  • @mikeydiggs4797
    @mikeydiggs4797 Рік тому

    Koa, i felt like you were speaking directly to me when you said "to you big waves could be 6'-8' " lol, anything overhead and im a nervous wreck at first. All you guys are super humans to be able to take those beat downs.

  • @luisrichard5804
    @luisrichard5804 3 роки тому

    Thanks Koa super good content! I appreciate your sincerity in telling us your feelings about big waves and mysteries of the ocean...

  • @bbwvelvet
    @bbwvelvet 3 роки тому +1

    Koa is the cutest! Thanks

  • @thejonathanrath
    @thejonathanrath 3 роки тому +7

    Cool, I'm gonna watch this then go hit Jaws ✌️

  • @1royalwolf
    @1royalwolf 3 роки тому

    Fear is what keeps you alive🤙

  • @thebigsad2444
    @thebigsad2444 3 роки тому +47

    How has Koa been doing vlogs for 3 years but he is still the most awkward person in front of a camera I have ever seen 😂

    • @Aumness08
      @Aumness08 3 роки тому +4

      I like it. It's real which is endearing.

    • @judyivie4181
      @judyivie4181 3 роки тому +1

      Hes definitely not a ham. Listen you could really learn.

    • @cliffboule8395
      @cliffboule8395 2 роки тому

      Mmmmm, I think Josh Tudor may have him beat 😺

    • @robinlathim8221
      @robinlathim8221 Рік тому +2

      It's all part of his charm and humble personality 🙂

    • @DubWreka
      @DubWreka Рік тому +1

      Let's see your videos...while your at it let's see you surf. What a rude comment.

  • @philiplundin6520
    @philiplundin6520 3 роки тому

    this is the
    video that I need

  • @al-dorifto1631
    @al-dorifto1631 9 місяців тому

    Back in 2012 a big wave to me was double over head but these days even head high if it's heavy is big for me 😂😂 but that's cuz I'm old unfit and I haven't got over the fear of nearly drowning back in 2012 and I haven't learnt how to get back to the beach when I get stuck in a washing machine, when you can't go in and can't or don't want to paddle back out

  • @leannecuster1490
    @leannecuster1490 3 роки тому +3

    Wow thanks Koa You learned how to travel with life saving vest.I like watching you guys John Nate Eli you Jamie Tina Kimmie Mark Love to all you aloha may God bless you and keep you In Jesus name Amen.

  • @defdog7515
    @defdog7515 3 роки тому +1

    Thanks! this helped me get over my fear of surfing 2-3 foot waves lol

  • @andrewiangillies
    @andrewiangillies 3 роки тому

    simple last answer, but still inspiring to hear

  • @asapn4612
    @asapn4612 11 місяців тому

    Koa, can you do make a video of the breath work training

  • @adhelcorpuz5969
    @adhelcorpuz5969 3 роки тому +3

    Cant imagine 10+ ft. I’m freakin shaking paddling into a 4-5 ft wave

  • @morganschwarz5436
    @morganschwarz5436 3 роки тому +2

    Can you please show us how you train to hold your breath:)

    • @meyburgh
      @meyburgh 3 роки тому

      In case no response of Koa, I use (for freediving.. improved static from 2:45 to over 4 min). On the big day it is about being conservative though, do it for the fun. Bigger waves usually are from longer period and break harder and faster. Some bigger waves (10-12ft) can still be easy and some 8ft impossible. Sprinting yourself silly can get yourself in trouble no matter your training. Hope you score some good ones!

  • @ryana1967
    @ryana1967 3 роки тому +2

    Big waves to me are 10-15 Bc max I surf is 8 feet and if it is 10-15 I don’t go out but this video helped me thanks koa

  • @paulmichaelmark
    @paulmichaelmark 3 роки тому +1

    Good insight, thanks. Staying in Honolulu, hope to come to N. Shore and spot u.

  • @ozzy3785
    @ozzy3785 3 роки тому

    How do you train for big waves and what are the best tips great vid

  • @chartlanguage
    @chartlanguage Рік тому

    hey why can u not then breathe the air in the vest that is next level when the foam killing u can grab the cambak tab and breathe under water remmeber help is usually to far away. call shane ask to tell the idea

  • @conorphoto
    @conorphoto 3 роки тому

    Helpful video bro. 👌

  • @MsGscoot
    @MsGscoot Рік тому

    Luv u dawg

  • @kennyb5537
    @kennyb5537 2 роки тому

    how about fear of small wave surfing?

  • @lukem.6049
    @lukem.6049 Рік тому

    I appreciate you taking the time to say that big waves arent always 20+ ft. I think 6-10ft is big bc i come from a place where its 1-2 ft most days…😂

  • @b.m.48933
    @b.m.48933 3 роки тому +4

    Koa, how come you don't setup a patreon account? Many UA-camrs have a patreon account since it is free and you'll at least have a monthly income. I think UA-cam gets a cut but nevertheless you have quite a bit of subscribers. I'll contribute 10.00 per month.

  • @jakejacka2164
    @jakejacka2164 3 роки тому

    could i just ask what the beach looks like when waves are that big

  • @VeronicaGonzalez-gx3uh
    @VeronicaGonzalez-gx3uh 3 роки тому

    Never got the merch I ordered :( still a fan though! Love the vlogs

  • @alvatrous
    @alvatrous 3 роки тому

    I would have loved to know what it was like your first time falling at jaws. how bad did it hurt? how did you not panic that first big wipe out? thats what I think about. It's like learning to do a back flip either you make it around or you hurt yourself. it's hard to progress in between with something like jaws or outer reefs or cloudbreak. I would have loved to learn how you progressed at surfing. the spots you used as examples of how you learned to ride bigger waves. how you prepared for a surf trip to a different place such as tahiti etc.

  • @judyivie4181
    @judyivie4181 3 роки тому

    If I get to Hawaii could I come and watch. Lol

  • @andrewdolby178
    @andrewdolby178 3 роки тому +1

    Yeeeeeeeeeew I am the one thousandth like 🤙🏻👌

  • @davidhernandez9985
    @davidhernandez9985 3 роки тому

    Hola TGIF Koa I'm not gett your YT notifications brah.

  • @robertjohnson3128
    @robertjohnson3128 3 роки тому

    “Maybe for you big waves are 6-8 ft”. Yup that’s me lmfaoo

  • @FishSticks1111
    @FishSticks1111 Місяць тому

    Koa the legend

  • @colleenmoore9920
    @colleenmoore9920 3 роки тому

    Igy. Inflatable is gd but timing? Fyi 💔💔💔My horse leg broke

  • @ArnedoAndres
    @ArnedoAndres 3 роки тому

    thx from Galicia!

  • @pascquallo
    @pascquallo 3 роки тому

    Koa I like the plant in the back, what kind of species is it? Interesting content¨Way to go

  • @mark7denzer
    @mark7denzer Рік тому

    Is Ten Foot Hawaiian big surf? (Asking for a friend).

  • @hman7236
    @hman7236 3 роки тому

    How do I prepare for gnarly 4foot Jersey junk

  • @oliverpascoe269
    @oliverpascoe269 2 роки тому

    But what type of training do you do?

  • @ApriliaRacer14
    @ApriliaRacer14 3 роки тому

    If you can’t hold your breath 1min 30 seconds minimum don’t paddle out.

  • @noahbootes9328
    @noahbootes9328 3 роки тому

    how do you get sponsers for big wave surfing

  • @turtlesarecool14
    @turtlesarecool14 3 роки тому +1

    I wish I could surf big waves but my arm dislocates under the pressure of waves 8+ feet. Next time ill hold my arm towards my chest. Surgery can't fix everything

    • @turtlesarecool14
      @turtlesarecool14 3 роки тому +1

      @Aquatic Mullet No matter how bad you think you got it somebody always has it worse. We can make excuses or we can make it happen. Small-mid size waves are the most fun. Good luck out there!

  • @1TrueNature
    @1TrueNature 3 роки тому

    I just finished listening to Conor Maguire talk about the fear. I'm scared of 5ft ers and that's just the paddle out : D

  • @kawikadee9670
    @kawikadee9670 3 роки тому

    Get over your fear by knowing your limits.

  • @SuiGenerisAbbie
    @SuiGenerisAbbie 3 роки тому

    Brah: Hint-hint, NE-VER say the word "explodes" to ANY TSA Agent!

  • @vivianabrilbecerrabernal732
    @vivianabrilbecerrabernal732 3 роки тому

    thanks for answer was cool

  • @nokeli6152
    @nokeli6152 3 роки тому

    What video editor do u use? AND THIS HELPS SO MUCH IM A KID AND IT'S A BIG STEP GOING GOT IN THE BIGGER WAVES

  • @sunsensational
    @sunsensational 3 роки тому

    I’ve never gone out beyond a handful of triple overhead days, but I’m curious if you’re more scared when you getting ready to go over the falls/wiping out
    On these massive waves, or when you’re paddling and get caught inside?

    • @msn4678
      @msn4678 2 роки тому

      i feel it’s worse caught inside both have happened before on pretty decent sized waves

  • @nateross14
    @nateross14 2 роки тому

    I don't need to hold my breath, I surf with scuba gear.

  • @ericaspeling7429
    @ericaspeling7429 3 роки тому

    that really helped thx

  • @AE-hz1hm
    @AE-hz1hm 3 роки тому

    how did the surgery go? Feeling any better?

  • @MikeV671
    @MikeV671 3 роки тому

    Panic and fear are two different things. Panic is what can out you in bad situations🙅🏽‍♂️

  • @alikajohnson9250
    @alikajohnson9250 3 роки тому

    What size(Hawaiian) do you start to get nervous?

  • @SuiGenerisAbbie
    @SuiGenerisAbbie 3 роки тому

    Shoots you go, Braddah!
    (Big wave) Surfing is in da blood.
    So, explaining how and why can be tricky.
    Da kine who do not do it, cannot understand.

  • @selfcaretravelrepeat
    @selfcaretravelrepeat 3 роки тому

    More vids like this 👍

  • @carlosantoniotabernilla
    @carlosantoniotabernilla 3 роки тому

    Epic!

  • @Nick-bo1uv
    @Nick-bo1uv 3 роки тому

    But can you explain how bad I am at surfing

  • @arthurtapia7465
    @arthurtapia7465 3 роки тому

    Song anyone? 😅

  • @lincolnlamour8090
    @lincolnlamour8090 3 роки тому

    Ever see any big wave bodyboarders?

    • @EmperorNerox
      @EmperorNerox 3 роки тому

      Of course he has there's a bunch of them out there at times

  • @tomsullivanchannel
    @tomsullivanchannel 3 роки тому

    It's what I do!

  • @mikebuckley46
    @mikebuckley46 3 роки тому

    hows the neck ??

  • @kapparosso5519
    @kapparosso5519 3 роки тому +1

    Wow!!

  • @surfit.
    @surfit. 3 роки тому +1

    Don't say the word explode, use inflate. 😶 And more drone shots, please.😁

  • @ItsBossGaming
    @ItsBossGaming 3 роки тому

    Awesome

  • @brewely
    @brewely 3 роки тому

    Heyy

  • @paulandrew4820
    @paulandrew4820 3 роки тому

    Gnarls

  • @InterdimensionalBarbell
    @InterdimensionalBarbell 3 роки тому

    Dunno why but i prefer to hear you talk at 1.25x playback speed

  • @marcphillips4593
    @marcphillips4593 3 роки тому

    Too many commercials ! 😂

  • @Tristan.spearss
    @Tristan.spearss 3 роки тому

    🐐🐐

  • @NH_Coastal
    @NH_Coastal 3 роки тому

    Except Nazare, fuck Nazare. I lol'd

  • @patrickblackburn2880
    @patrickblackburn2880 3 роки тому

    🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼

  • @xyzct
    @xyzct 3 роки тому

    Pssst ... chair ... oil ...

  • @marche7123
    @marche7123 3 роки тому

    Jiiiha

  • @stevenhansen8641
    @stevenhansen8641 3 роки тому +1

    🤙🥖

  • @lincolnlamour8090
    @lincolnlamour8090 3 роки тому

    3rd

  • @ellenboyd5375
    @ellenboyd5375 3 роки тому

    The berserk quail uncommonly care because angora gratifyingly reduce plus a old discussion. pleasant, unable rhythm

  • @presleyseamans366
    @presleyseamans366 3 роки тому

    8th