I nearly died in the impact zone when I was first starting to surf a couple of years ago. The waves kept crashing on my head - it was so scary. The big mistake I made was trying to swim back to the shore; I kept trying but was making no progress as the current kept pulling me out. When my friend finally got to me, he told me to get on the board and bodysurf a wave in. That saved my life. So simple! I learned that lesson the hard way, and I'll never forget it.
I’m a beginner and I’ve only tried to surf twice before. I remember right before I went to rent the surf board, I had fear of failure so strong that I had to do a 10min meditation to calm myself down and encourage myself to embrace failures. Just found your channel out. Really like your content!!!! They’re so helpful🥹
Thanks for this. It's a great video and exactly what I needed at the moment. I had a bad experience a couple of weeks ago, rough surf conditions. I was in a class of intermediate surfers and we got split up on the way out beyond the break. I was already tired from trying to paddle out and got badly smashed in in the impact zone, and when I was under water the second time, I really had no breath left and thought I was going to inhale underwater. I felt that my lungs were going to burst and the surface seemed much further away than I was expecting so I was panicking. Fortunately I got my head above water and was able to take a breath - but my big fear as I came up was that another wave would have come down on top of me and then, I'm not sure what would have happened. I knew my instructor was not far away but I'm not sure how long it would have taken him to get to me if I was drowning. Anyway, I left the water after that and did a beach clean to calm down but I was very shaken by it. I liked that you gave that great piece of advice at the end about learning to hold your breath. I've been practicing this now. I can now hold my breath about a minute 15 seconds and trying to get that up. I think what I learned during the experience was to think about breathing when you're surfing and especially if you're about to go under in a wave. Take a deep breath or two if necessary just before you're about to go under, then you can stay calm throughout and not panic - as you say Daniel, you'll be under for seconds only. Keep up the great work!
I had exactly the same experience about a year ago, when I was still learning how to surf and a friend convinced me to go surfing with her. She said the waves were going to be small and perfect for me to learn, but as soon as we got in the water I realized that it would be too much for me, but chose to give it a try. Happens that I caught a wave, but right after I got stuck in the impact zone, from where I couldn’t get out and I started panicking cause I couldn’t almost breathe, I was very tired and didn’t know what to do. I somehow managed to get out of the water and finally get some rest, but got so traumatized that I haven’t surfed since then. I really want to go back in the water and overcome this fear of drowning… Since you had the same experience as me, can you give me some tips to overcome this situation and go back surfing?
@@madalenamagalhaes_ Thanks for your amazing comment. A lot of people are experiencing something like that. Yes what really helps is preparation: It means: for example train your body physically and mentally before a bigger surf. For example: If you train your body to hold your breath more then a minute (which you almost never need in normal surfing) then you know from your body, "ah easy nena, I trained that, I can manage" that feeling gives you already in your mind confidence and control. So, hold your breath training I would recommend, not out of nessecity but more for confidents. For your next step of surfing I would recommend to get a coach to start with easy body surfing , after a trauma, so really start enjoying again that power of the waves we love, with a trained surfcoach. We coaches are all trained lifesafers, which give you as a student confidence as well during your training. :) I hope those little tips helped already. If you ever feel like more coaching you can also book a one-on-one online live call with me or one of my surf companions surf coaches: surfcompanions.com/coaching-call Thanks so much for your support and your comment. And I hope you start to enjoy nature again with surfing!:) You just need some proper guidance and boom you are back!:)
Awesome video man and this goes for everyone who has fear of bigger waves or even like me anything over 6ft, don’t be ashamed no everyone is born or has the mental capacity to surf huge waves I can throw buckets, do a nice layback yet I still have that fear keep in mind I definitely could do it but it’s a mental barrier and I do plan on it eventually:)
Brother I’m trying to learn surfing for months by myself. I got wiped out badly in my first month of learning. I didn’t know what kind of waves I pick and it was a massive swell. I’m so scared since, I go in the water I paddle paddle, avoid all waves and go out . What should I do
Get a personal surfcoach on a small surf day to give you confidence in the water and feel safe again. You have to gain your trust back so only surf in small waves. 👌👌and after a while you fear will be smaller. „Only thing to overcome fear is through fear.“
I would really recommend doing a 3-7 day surf camp to overcome these fears. Except for the survival one, I've barely felt the other ones, only lightly - and I would mostly attribute that to my experience of training with surf instructors and a bunch of other enthusiastic new surfers :) At a good surf camp, you have the trainers starting from a good place of skill so you build your surfing ability incrementally + the other camp surfers are usually extremely friendly and you all encourage each other from a positive angle - if you do well, you all cheer :) So it feels like team sports but without the judgements. So many good feelings, great energy :) It's also not that expensive (relatively, but particularly if you travel anyway and spend money on accommodation/food) - e.g. in Portugal or in Morocco!
I nearly died in the impact zone when I was first starting to surf a couple of years ago. The waves kept crashing on my head - it was so scary. The big mistake I made was trying to swim back to the shore; I kept trying but was making no progress as the current kept pulling me out. When my friend finally got to me, he told me to get on the board and bodysurf a wave in. That saved my life. So simple! I learned that lesson the hard way, and I'll never forget it.
Good tip from your friend this is exactly what you should do! Remeber: you surfboard is your fun equiment AND your safety board!
I’m a beginner and I’ve only tried to surf twice before. I remember right before I went to rent the surf board, I had fear of failure so strong that I had to do a 10min meditation to calm myself down and encourage myself to embrace failures. Just found your channel out. Really like your content!!!! They’re so helpful🥹
Amazing to hear!! Let me know if you have a topic to be explained;)
Thanks for this. It's a great video and exactly what I needed at the moment. I had a bad experience a couple of weeks ago, rough surf conditions. I was in a class of intermediate surfers and we got split up on the way out beyond the break. I was already tired from trying to paddle out and got badly smashed in in the impact zone, and when I was under water the second time, I really had no breath left and thought I was going to inhale underwater. I felt that my lungs were going to burst and the surface seemed much further away than I was expecting so I was panicking. Fortunately I got my head above water and was able to take a breath - but my big fear as I came up was that another wave would have come down on top of me and then, I'm not sure what would have happened. I knew my instructor was not far away but I'm not sure how long it would have taken him to get to me if I was drowning. Anyway, I left the water after that and did a beach clean to calm down but I was very shaken by it. I liked that you gave that great piece of advice at the end about learning to hold your breath. I've been practicing this now. I can now hold my breath about a minute 15 seconds and trying to get that up. I think what I learned during the experience was to think about breathing when you're surfing and especially if you're about to go under in a wave. Take a deep breath or two if necessary just before you're about to go under, then you can stay calm throughout and not panic - as you say Daniel, you'll be under for seconds only. Keep up the great work!
Love your comment!! Amazing
I had exactly the same experience about a year ago, when I was still learning how to surf and a friend convinced me to go surfing with her. She said the waves were going to be small and perfect for me to learn, but as soon as we got in the water I realized that it would be too much for me, but chose to give it a try. Happens that I caught a wave, but right after I got stuck in the impact zone, from where I couldn’t get out and I started panicking cause I couldn’t almost breathe, I was very tired and didn’t know what to do. I somehow managed to get out of the water and finally get some rest, but got so traumatized that I haven’t surfed since then. I really want to go back in the water and overcome this fear of drowning…
Since you had the same experience as me, can you give me some tips to overcome this situation and go back surfing?
@@madalenamagalhaes_ Thanks for your amazing comment. A lot of people are experiencing something like that. Yes what really helps is preparation: It means: for example train your body physically and mentally before a bigger surf. For example: If you train your body to hold your breath more then a minute (which you almost never need in normal surfing) then you know from your body, "ah easy nena, I trained that, I can manage" that feeling gives you already in your mind confidence and control. So, hold your breath training I would recommend, not out of nessecity but more for confidents. For your next step of surfing I would recommend to get a coach to start with easy body surfing , after a trauma, so really start enjoying again that power of the waves we love, with a trained surfcoach. We coaches are all trained lifesafers, which give you as a student confidence as well during your training. :) I hope those little tips helped already. If you ever feel like more coaching you can also book a one-on-one online live call with me or one of my surf companions surf coaches: surfcompanions.com/coaching-call
Thanks so much for your support and your comment. And I hope you start to enjoy nature again with surfing!:) You just need some proper guidance and boom you are back!:)
Amazing video and tips! Thank you!
Awesome video man and this goes for everyone who has fear of bigger waves or even like me anything over 6ft, don’t be ashamed no everyone is born or has the mental capacity to surf huge waves I can throw buckets, do a nice layback yet I still have that fear keep in mind I definitely could do it but it’s a mental barrier and I do plan on it eventually:)
Thanks so much for your comment
Great video! Such great insights
Thanks so much!!
Great vid! Thank you, I'm moving forward to get that book!
Great to hear:)
Protect your face from the board,and your neck from the bottom!!!
Brother I’m trying to learn surfing for months by myself. I got wiped out badly in my first month of learning. I didn’t know what kind of waves I pick and it was a massive swell. I’m so scared since, I go in the water I paddle paddle, avoid all waves and go out . What should I do
Get a personal surfcoach on a small surf day to give you confidence in the water and feel safe again. You have to gain your trust back so only surf in small waves. 👌👌and after a while you fear will be smaller. „Only thing to overcome fear is through fear.“
Really interesting video Daniel! You don’t find much content about this topic. Keep it up! 💪🏽
Thaaanks so much Mad. Let me know if you need a topic explained! I will put it on my list;)
My only fear is an impact with surf fins, these things are razor sharp
For sure, thats why head protection
Pretty nice content, very helpful.Grettings from Perú.
Amazing to hear thanks so much!
I would really recommend doing a 3-7 day surf camp to overcome these fears. Except for the survival one, I've barely felt the other ones, only lightly - and I would mostly attribute that to my experience of training with surf instructors and a bunch of other enthusiastic new surfers :) At a good surf camp, you have the trainers starting from a good place of skill so you build your surfing ability incrementally + the other camp surfers are usually extremely friendly and you all encourage each other from a positive angle - if you do well, you all cheer :) So it feels like team sports but without the judgements. So many good feelings, great energy :) It's also not that expensive (relatively, but particularly if you travel anyway and spend money on accommodation/food) - e.g. in Portugal or in Morocco!
"Everybody has also started surfing at some point". Yes, but they where 10 years old, not 30+ from a land locked country.
I know many who started surfing at age 30 or later :)
@@the_salty_melody I started at 49 and have been surfing every week for the past few years. Anything is possible!
I started at 38 and pretty advanced at 43.
👍
Takut sama ombak.