I have had the seals leak between the case bore and the OD of the seal because of some scratches in the bore. Now I always put a light coat of 1184 on the outside of the seal. This has worked good with no problems.
I bet you can probe the inside of a mounted seal with a dental pick to see if it has inverted itself. But you still might not know if the spring has popped off.
supposedly 35mm film works too... but for the record, I don't think the aluminum has enough strength to cut the rubber. you can use whatever you like, as long as its thin enough and has some strength .... coke bottle might work too
I think that’s a great idea! To bad he didn’t think of it, I wonder if he got a little salty for not thinking of it? What kind of comment would he leave? Probably something stupid like use a coke bottle,,,
If you put a little engine assembly lube on the seal it will help when installing it- if you want to know if the seal is sealing , start the engine if it starts without excessive pulls and will idle without going dead spray little carburetor cleaner on or around the seal if it goes dead you have a vacuum leak- the seal is not sealing if it doesn’t go dead the seal is good
I think my 288XP might have bad crank seals. At wide open throttle it’s a champ. But I can NEVER get it to idle properly and it’s almost impossible to start when the engine is hot. New carb, new cylinder jug, new carb spacer and gaskets, new muffler.
Being that it’s 20 years old with a new jug (bought it that way) I have no proof as to whether or not the bottom end has been worked over. Run great with reasonable vibrations for such a big saw. So it’s probably due for seals.
I use a seal installation punch .. like the shop tool only I made it on the lathe. That 395 has had a few weeks of none stop logging and so far all is well. :) Wonder if the ragged "edge" of that tin can wrap can rip a scratch into the fragile lip of the seal.. I'm shure u you chamfer or smooth the ragged edge! :) :) LOL I know, I know....over analyzing & just teasing :) (I couldn't help myself .. please don't test the theory! I'm certain, if the bottom end passes the deep water vacuum test its fine! )(And after you read this...we can delete it. Hope you get a chuckle is all )
yes, the ragged edge was something I worried about as well, so instead of a square edge, I rounded it, AND i used a ball peen hammer to peen it towards the crank, so there would be no snag. after using it, I'm not sure I could CREATE an edge on the aluminum can that would actually CUT or damage the seal....the rubber is too tough for the aluminum. gotta take precautions as well. no need to delete this, its a great point
:) Why seal installation tools work and don't destroy them. :) One thing I have seen is all seals aren't created equal BTW. Some of the AM seals from the pacific rim have LESS of a "groove" to capture that internal spring making them much more susceptible to that situation your approach addresses.
afleetcommand that is interesting...would like to see an example. Though I do think the inversion issue had more to with the lip on the crank than anything. Based on my experience here...I'm going to use the can trick as often as possible. I can't see how a seal install tool would be better in this case than a regular deep socket. I'll let you do that vid lol
Nice idea with the pop can. I have to wonder what the factory does on the assembly line. Maybe a visit to a premium chainsaw factory like stihl in America .
Good question. I think they pull the crank through the bearing/seal from the other side. They very special equipment to do that sort of stuff at the factory I'm sure. Would be interesting to see no doubt. The benefit to pulling the crank through the bearing/seal is that you can control the seal inversion issue more closely and evenly. When putting the seal in from the outside, the seal has to seat against the case/chassis AND at the same exact time, the rubber has to be guided over the lip on the crank. So its possible for me to seat the seal unevenly, and therefore the rubber has a chance to pucker. :( all better now :)
Try using a piece of 1/2" copper tubing.ream one end of the pipe and put it facing down towards the bearing .leave the upper end cut with pipe cutters so it got a taper to it.worked pretty good for me .
For the seal you mean? Husky has specific seal sleeves. They are very cheap and work very well. Been using them for a while. I think you can find them under "fitting sleeve"
Put some silicone on your seal and coke can before you slide it over that dry socket and before you install it, you are pushing that seal beyond what it is supposed to go. Try some scotch tape on that part with the coke can that is sharp, right along that seam and then you'll be good for one installation that's all you will need. You're making this way harder than it needs to be.
Timidater please keep in mind a couple things...this vid I did quickly so I didn't use my tripod. I have 2 tripods...both of which are broken....just got a nicer one from my uncle. in case you didn't notice...I don't put ads on my chainsaw vids....so please be gentle with your comments and constructive criticism
I will try to get better with my footage. I have a lot to learn about camera work. Thank you for being respectful. I really try to put out content that has real relevance....and it's quite a bit of work to do so. Take care
Ya....I use mobile 1 synthetic grease but that will work too. Also...husky has factory sleeves that replace the coke can trick. They are cheap and work great.
I have had the seals leak between the case bore and the OD of the seal because of some scratches in the bore. Now I always put a light coat of 1184 on the outside of the seal. This has worked good with no problems.
yeah, good point. these were tight, no damage.... so I wasn't worried, but its a good idea
I bet you can probe the inside of a mounted seal with a dental pick to see if it has inverted itself. But you still might not know if the spring has popped off.
Yeah I cant imagine a good way to see the integrity of that spring unless you do a vac test
Gd engineering practice is to put a thing smear of grease onto the surface you are sliding the seal onto. Also thin smear on the seal lip helps too.
dennis hamlin yep....sounds like good practice
Why not use a piece of plastic milk jug instead of the Coke can for your install shield. Less likely to cut the seal lip.
supposedly 35mm film works too...
but for the record, I don't think the aluminum has enough strength to cut the rubber. you can use whatever you like, as long as its thin enough and has some strength .... coke bottle might work too
I think that’s a great idea! To bad he didn’t think of it, I wonder if he got a little salty for not thinking of it? What kind of comment would he leave? Probably something stupid like use a coke bottle,,,
If you put a little engine assembly lube on the seal it will help when installing it- if you want to know if the seal is sealing , start the engine if it starts without excessive pulls and will idle without going dead spray little carburetor cleaner on or around the seal if it goes dead you have a vacuum leak- the seal is not sealing if it doesn’t go dead the seal is good
Yup... but its easier to install the seal with a seal tool or coke can and then you can be sure it didn't invert / prolapse when it was installed.
I think my 288XP might have bad crank seals. At wide open throttle it’s a champ. But I can NEVER get it to idle properly and it’s almost impossible to start when the engine is hot. New carb, new cylinder jug, new carb spacer and gaskets, new muffler.
When was its last rebuild...bottom end? If never....its time.
Being that it’s 20 years old with a new jug (bought it that way) I have no proof as to whether or not the bottom end has been worked over. Run great with reasonable vibrations for such a big saw. So it’s probably due for seals.
@@VinnyMartello its due for a full split. Once you pull the seals you'll see the bearings need done too. Best of luck with the build :)
Yay! I took out some oak stumps with it today. She’s hanging in there so far!!!
@@VinnyMartello i wouldn't run it without doing those seals. They are old and hard and will open up when hot and you'll cook your top end
I use a seal installation punch .. like the shop tool only I made it on the lathe. That 395 has had a few weeks of none stop logging and so far all is well. :) Wonder if the ragged "edge" of that tin can wrap can rip a scratch into the fragile lip of the seal.. I'm shure u you chamfer or smooth the ragged edge! :) :) LOL I know, I know....over analyzing & just teasing :) (I couldn't help myself .. please don't test the theory! I'm certain, if the bottom end passes the deep water vacuum test its fine! )(And after you read this...we can delete it. Hope you get a chuckle is all )
yes, the ragged edge was something I worried about as well, so instead of a square edge, I rounded it, AND i used a ball peen hammer to peen it towards the crank, so there would be no snag. after using it, I'm not sure I could CREATE an edge on the aluminum can that would actually CUT or damage the seal....the rubber is too tough for the aluminum. gotta take precautions as well. no need to delete this, its a great point
:) and just think about what you just said for a second...:)
afleetcommand yes yes....we agree on something lol
:) Why seal installation tools work and don't destroy them. :) One thing I have seen is all seals aren't created equal BTW. Some of the AM seals from the pacific rim have LESS of a "groove" to capture that internal spring making them much more susceptible to that situation your approach addresses.
afleetcommand that is interesting...would like to see an example. Though I do think the inversion issue had more to with the lip on the crank than anything. Based on my experience here...I'm going to use the can trick as often as possible.
I can't see how a seal install tool would be better in this case than a regular deep socket. I'll let you do that vid lol
Nice idea with the pop can. I have to wonder what the factory does on the assembly line. Maybe a visit to a premium chainsaw factory like stihl in America .
Good question. I think they pull the crank through the bearing/seal from the other side. They very special equipment to do that sort of stuff at the factory I'm sure. Would be interesting to see no doubt.
The benefit to pulling the crank through the bearing/seal is that you can control the seal inversion issue more closely and evenly. When putting the seal in from the outside, the seal has to seat against the case/chassis AND at the same exact time, the rubber has to be guided over the lip on the crank. So its possible for me to seat the seal unevenly, and therefore the rubber has a chance to pucker. :( all better now :)
Try using a piece of 1/2" copper tubing.ream one end of the pipe and put it facing down towards the bearing .leave the upper end cut with pipe cutters so it got a taper to it.worked pretty good for me .
For the seal you mean? Husky has specific seal sleeves. They are very cheap and work very well. Been using them for a while. I think you can find them under "fitting sleeve"
Ola de dónde se puede sacar la chapa que a doblado muchas gracias un saludo
cristobal aguilar castello lo ciendo. ..no comprede Español. ... but I DO comprede "muchas Gracias" :) de nada!
Where can I find crankshaft seals for old poulan saws?
The dumpster where they belong
Put some silicone on your seal and coke can before you slide it over that dry socket and before you install it, you are pushing that seal beyond what it is supposed to go. Try some scotch tape on that part with the coke can that is sharp, right along that seam and then you'll be good for one installation that's all you will need. You're making this way harder than it needs to be.
Use a drop of oil so it slides on the coke can tool
you can, or you can use the seal tools made by husky... they take the place of the coke can trick and you can lube those up too :)
You can vacuum test
Yes ....you can if you want to. But the coke can trick works perfectly. Without it you end up 2nd guessing yourself.
Matthew Olson yes I love your coke can method
I used coke can method on ms 660 stihl and it worked perfectly
buy a trIpod wow!
Timidater please keep in mind a couple things...this vid I did quickly so I didn't use my tripod. I have 2 tripods...both of which are broken....just got a nicer one from my uncle. in case you didn't notice...I don't put ads on my chainsaw vids....so please be gentle with your comments and constructive criticism
sorry, usually dont comment but it was hard to follow, good content though
I will try to get better with my footage. I have a lot to learn about camera work. Thank you for being respectful. I really try to put out content that has real relevance....and it's quite a bit of work to do so. Take care
I should of explained myself at first, just got a bit miffed! Keep up the videos!
Timidater thanks!
Put a little silicon on that Coke can next time it'll slide right in there no problem
Ya....I use mobile 1 synthetic grease but that will work too. Also...husky has factory sleeves that replace the coke can trick. They are cheap and work great.