A Serious Warning to All Car Owners, Stop Using This Engine Oil Right Now
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- Опубліковано 30 тра 2024
- Engine oil. A Serious Warning to All Car Owners, Stop Using This Engine Oil Right Now, DIY and car repair with Scotty Kilmer. Types of engine oil. Changing engine oil. Is thicker engine oil better? Different engine oils explained. Different engine oil grades. Different kinds of engine oil. How to check engine oil. How to tell if engine oil is bad. Engine oil problems. Bad engine oil. Car Advice. DIY car repair with Scotty Kilmer, an auto mechanic for the last 54 years.
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My 2010 yaris has this engine light flashing wen cold and loose power
Scotty, my newly purchased 2004 Sienna XLE has a check engine light on as well as VSC and Trac Off lights on as i drive. The previous owner had trouble getting the car to pass emissions and had multiple sensors replaced with no luck. What can I do? It only has 181,000 miles on it. I'm the 2nd owner.
BUT owners manual is different depending on location: 5W-20 in US and 5W-30 in Europe. This indicates to me the engine can use either oil
How about using 100% a good tier/palm oil in supermarket (not all brand palm oil) for engine flush?
I see someone doing that on Honda Grand Civic 200.000Km with capacity oil @3.5 liters fill with palm oil, he turn on the engine then run on iddle state (1500rpm) for 15 minutes then drain it, open the top of crank case and see the "what the heck it look very clean." except the hardened deposits that have harden from times to time still in there.
As far i know the engine flush can't clean hardening deposits too.
Edit for my mistake 😒.
I had 2007 Entourage and just got rid of it 272 000 km and no engine problems
90% of engine wear is at startup - the oil pump should be electric so that it can run for several seconds before the starter is allowed to crank the engine.
Doesn't need to be. People who have torn down engines that have sat for six month, and probably longer, have said the bearings are still full of oil. This is a topic which needs science, not opinion. An external electric oil pump probably is not a good idea and neither is an internal one. It might be more plausible to have an auxiliary external oil pump which ran for some short period of time before startup.
Experience says contemporary engines last 300,000 miles and more as long as the oil is changed according to specs and other maintenance is done when needed, except for those engines which have a design defect. In those cases, the failures are not oil pressure related. An engine can have oiling problems, but the oil pump itself generally is not the culprit.
Better to rely on the proven mechanical system. If an auxiliary startup electric pump, if one existed, failed, there would be no consequences. The engine would still have enough residual oil in it to start without abnormal wear occurring.
Just change the oil and don't let your foot and the floor become friends, and you won't have a problem.
If the oil pump is electric it can break, it can’t break if it’s belt or chain driven, as long as the engine turns over the oil pump will too
I had a teflon coated timing chain in a 1968 pontiac with a 400 engine. The teflon flaked off, timing chain slipped (replacment chains had no teflon), and the teflon flakes fell in the oil pan and plugged up the oil intake pump screen, like plugged almost solid. Before the timing chain slipped the engine oil light would go on at idle, but if the engine rev'd the light would go out so I ignored it. I complained to GM about the teflon design and they told me to go F myself since out of warranty. What a mad, mad, mad world !!!
No
Scotty..... the only guy that can ramble on about car care that I could listen to all day.
And that hand gestures.
@@EnzuWiz he must be Italian
Amen
He’s the best just ask him
RIGHT!?!?!!!
This man is the only (or one of the only) people I would legitimately label a social media influencer.
i've learned a lot from this dude..
@@jeremystokes49 I haven't...
Scotty's right about the Tundra V8s. I had a 15 Tundra and an 18 Tundra Limited both with the 5.7 I-force engine. In my opinion those were the best V8 engines for durability ever made. Never gave me an ounce of trouble. I was really disappointed to find out it was gone in the redesign of that truck.
I'm an engine builder in a fully equipped shop that ONLY builds and rebuilds engines. There are so many shops that claim to be capable, but are really unaware of the precision and correct tooling involved. Buy from a well known rebuilder that includes a good warranty at no additional cost. (Except in the case of performance builds) we can't offer a free warranty on something that produces 600+ HP with 6 cylinders!
You ever do any Ford 4.6 modular performance builds?
I rebuilt a vortec 8.1 in a backyard with $50 worth of new tools and absolutely no experience, but it's still going strong 100k miles later. Measuring clearances and comparing them to spec really isn't that hard and in no way justifies the outrageous labor costs involved.
Ok like we need to know yall engine only based shops r ripoffs. Gtfoh u mook
I have an actual question here. In your experience, when you tear down an engine that has been sitting for six months to a year without being run, is there still oil in the bearings and in the cam area?
I have seen videos where people start up engines that have been sitting for many years, even decades, and they run without any apparent pre-oiling. If was trying to start up an engine that had not been run in many years, I think I would want to put some kind of oil in the cylinders, oil on the cam if it was overhead or on the rockers and down the pushrods, and then crank it for a while hoping to get some oil in the bearings. Then there are other more serious pre-oiling methods.
I very seriously doubt starting up an engine in regular use does any damage due to oil lag. I don't think that starting it with an empty filter after an oil change does any damage either. What is the real story?
@@anonymike8280 I've seen the same "20 years sitting, will it run" videos. The truth is most any vehicle that has set for more than a couple years should be primed. There are exceptions ( Humvee, some heavy equipment) there will be oil on the bearings, biut th
The big turbo scam is every time you bring a turbo vehicle in for service the service writer will always recommend a turbo service. Expensive? Yes. Necessary? For the dealership revenue yes. For the owner? Not likely. The turbo was the only thing that worked like it was supposed to on my F250. They could never fix all the other issues I had with the truck though. Bad wiring, bad EGR valves, more bad wiring, more EGR valve problems. I brought the truck in one day for a warranty repair on the seat heater and they tried to sell me a turbo service. I fixed several wiring problems myself that the dealer couldn't figure out. I also eliminated the EGR valve system. $300 a pop for EGR valves and an hour plus labor if you let them do the work. $1500 for a turbo service? I ain't bending over for that!!!
What the hell does a turbo service entail?
@@blackhawk7r221 It can mean changing bearings and seals and such. If a turbo fails it can destroy the engine so it's up to you if you want to do it.
@@brandonhebert5485Ok, gotcha. So this guy is just calling a rebuild a service.
$300.00 for a f-----g EGR valve??? Insane. You should find a solid pre 75 Ford F250 and restore it. No smog checks for pre 75 vehicles, and no EGR valve to begin with on pre 73 vehicles. I hate EGR. It destroys torque.
Got it Scotty - Don't Turn Warped or Used Modern Rotors.
Also Right About NOT Getting ANY Rebuilt Engines.
I Had 2 Rebuilt Toyota 22R Truck Engines That BOTH FAILED Just After 90 Day 'Warranty' Ended.
I had a 72 Plymouth Satellite Custom with a 225 slant six made in Windsor, Ontario. Solid car, built like a tank.
Flow changes with temperature. Which is why there are multi-grade oils. Synthetics have a number, but they actually flow when cold significantly better than conventional multi-grade. And the numbers on the container are the most misunderstood thing, and the manufactures Scotty is talking about are the worst ones at causing confusion. The second number is how it flows at operating temperature. So, the difference between a 0W-30 and 10W-30, is how well the 0 flows in cold weather. They are the same at operating temperatures.
Ty that makes sense.
2014 Sonata burning oil took Scotty's advice changed the PCV valve 10 bucks local parts store problem gone. very easy to replace. 100,000 miles still runs as strong as the day i bought it. just changed the the transfluid and antifreeze for the 1st time. again a very easy job. only replaced 4 quarts of tranny fluid which i believe is a little more then half. didn't want to drain it completely think i;; do it again at 130,000. used the correct anti freeze there blue stuff for Hyundai and the Valvoline synthetic trans fluid also rated for Hyundai.
Half the time insurance companies deem something totaled for no reason other than they dont wanna be bothered trying to get it fixed. Had a buddy and they said his car was totaled… only thing that was wrong with it was a lil cosmetic damage and the radiator was busted.
As a young engineer, I had to go to multiple automotive manufacturing plants to fix machinery. During that period, I had the chance to go to the Honda Civic assembly plant in Barrie, Ontario, Canada. This plant is one the best I had the chance to visit in my career. Their quality control and their attention to details is second to none! So no worries about buying an Honda Civic. From what I've seen, they're very very well built!
@m rapacki as far as I'm concerned, I was there to fix a machine controlling the quality of the welds. They had employees on overtimes manually checking every single welds until the machine was fixed. Most other company would have skip that QC until it was repaired. It might just be anecdotal but It means a lot to me because they could have skip that step without to much consequence. Instead, they decided to not skip on quality even tough their welding process was very well mastered and the chance of a problem was very low.
@@savard02
Touche'!
Bravo!
they may be built well, but the engineering behind it is a whole nother ball game , i worked for a bmw dealership for 20 years , i saw a company that cares in every waay shape of form, and before that i worked for a ford dealership, garbage at every level,,,i say no more
@@savard02 if that's the case ,what happened with the bronco roofs,they fit terribly they had to recheck every roof on vehicles that were not being shipped and on hold due the chip issue,they hid the lack of roof qc behind the chip issue,so typical ford
@@savard02 that is nothing new to car manufacturing for any brand.
I used to make Rotors there in Clarksville....many moons ago.....there was Allied, Bosch, and Akebono..... The tolerances we had to maintain for major car manufacturers....was pretty impressive. In the single digit microns of all the specs. He's right. Don't turn them....replace them.
Interesting.
Tangent: the rotor pictured at 1:48--likely was manufactured that way believe it or not. In the dying yrs of International, their "Travelal" (Suburban type) rig actually had only ONE sided discs with a steel shoe riding on the fins on opposite side. Seems unlikely a normal double pad disc would wear like that under most any circumstances.
(came across one while repairing a broken frame, couldn't believe what I was looking at but sure as hell it was MADE that way)
Correction--that one in the picture DOES look like common setup so it probably is just that worn! Also the Internationals had steel shoe to fins on *inboard* side where it was harder to see.
I’ve never understood the math and time calculation of making a failed rotor thinner that would in turn fail more quickly than it did the first time. Of course crappy shops love easy tasks that are pure profit.
I turned my badly scored 4wd rotors myself for free on my 20k lathe ;-) . No problems what so ever.
@@Mrbfgray I've seen 3 or 4 rotors not designed like that end up looking like that, but I'm in oilfield country so you get guys that'll drive until the brake caliper pistons turn sideways in the caliper.
Scotty I would just like to say I appreciate you. I work on cars myself not profesionaly but mostly my own. And I can rell you are a stright shooter. We need guys like you to tell it like it is fearless.
You should use the oil that it recommends in the owner manual of your car
Ok "Scotty" Davin Peterson.
@@Jon_2218 😂
Depends on the owners manual. My wife's Mazda5, for example, claims 0w-20 in the Northern North America manual. In Mexico, it says 5w-30 is fine. We're in Houston, where it RARELY drops to freezing, and when it does, people don't drive. I put in 5w-20, because it's more likely to protect in our weather patterns. (Today, New Years Eve, it's in the 80's)
My Pontiac Vibe is a 5w30 car. I'm running 10w30 because of the temperatures.
BUT owners manual is different depending on location: 5W-20 in US and 5W-30 in Europe. This indicates to me the engine can use either oil
.
@@electrictroy2010 Hmmm, are we sure that the engines in the US are identical to those in Europe?
Keep up good work I'm learning so much from you and getting the positive energy
I use 5-30 and 10-30 and 10-40 for years in the same engine.
It's a old 5.7 v8 from the 80s.
I know for a fact it's got well over 250,000 miles and over 30 years old 2nd owner.
right, some people dont check/change oil enuff, oil level is the main idea.
yeaop
I've seen many of those motors last a Long time from regular 2500/3K oil/filter changes
@@buglover-qb1dq That's true too.
Newer cars cannot do that
Scotty …Your Honesty & Experience is AMAZING thank you
Love it he doesn't mince words, straight to the point.
I agree about the Elantra. I had over 200k miles on mine, and it was running OK. It took a deer jumping out in front of me to end its life.
Scotty, you are a legend! 🔥🔥 👏🏼👏🏼
Love the videos Scotty!!!!!! Hope all is well with you! Merry Christmas and happy new year pal!
thanks and Happy New Year!
Christmas is over. 😂
@@stantongovindasamy6860 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤪🤪🤫
@@stantongovindasamy6860 people can still say Merry Christmas after the 25th ya goof!
@@pajamatime5750 it's dumb😂
Back in 2015 I picked up an '08 Honda Civic with 45k miles at the Insurance auction that had been totaled for hail damage. The hail damage was there but wasn't bad enough to bother me or my son who we had purchased the car for. I dug through the car prior to the purchase and found the original owner had all of the service records and oil change receipts from the dealer in the glove box. This car was an exception to the rule about buying salvaged cars, the car served us very well for several years until an unfortunate accident sent it to the crusher.
Hey scotty! I got rid of my 2018 Volkswagen Tiguan and got a 2018 Toyota rav 4 XLE with 15,000 miles on it!. Hope it lasts the next decade as I put 10,000 miles driving a year. GOOD EVENING SCOTTY!
evening, good move!
My 03 Focus is still going at 300 k miles. The rest of the car is junk but that motor. I found out it’s a Mazda engine. No wonder
Scottys right good move
@@markpell5654 Mazda engines are made for eternity :)
They’re great cars but the brakes suck on those. Gotta replace them every 3 years. That’s what I see on average working at toyota. Those hybrids eat through brakes even more tho. Solid year before they went to the cheaper material paper thin new gen.
Hey Scotty, you are the friggin man! I am 66 years old, been what in the day used to call a gearhead. Have worked on all kinds of things. And still do occasionally. And you are right if somebody rebuild an engine I just roll my eyes and go holy crap! Like you said at 60 or 80,000 miles if someone rebuilds a Toyota or Other decent Japanese engine, there is definitely something wrong. And guaranteed Not a good rebuild,unless it’s one in 1 million, the mechanic would do a good job. So refreshing to hear a guy who knows what the heck he’s doing and loves his work. I am a Blacksmith as well as mechanic, it’s kind of funny, because we used to , And still do take things apart and repair the part and then repair what was wrong. With the repaired part. I’m sure you can relate to that. Sorry to ramble. You’re the man. Thank you so much and keep up the great work stay well enjoy your loved ones and have a beautiful day. Jim
Great video as always very informative . Glad to say I've always taken the practical approach to working on my truck and my wife and kids cars and after listening to you I know I was correct saving money and doing mechanical work is very rewarding. I changed my front gas lines on my 2009 ford truck shop wanted 800.00 i bought both gas lines for 30.00 took me a total of 2 hours I was not going to pay that crazy price now another thing I know how to do.
Great job Fatboy!
I also wanted to type Fatboy to someone without it being an insult, probably the first in history.
Cheers!
I took my car to a mechanic, it was a family business where the father (grandfather) and sons (teenagers and older) all worked in the shop. The older guys all bragged on how qualified they were, how much experience they had, dealership experience, etc. After they completely f'd up a couple of repairs I started doing stuff myself.
Agree about rotors. I drove an old Chevy 3/4 ton truck for over 200K miles! Just kept replacing pads and shoes as needed. Still had the same rotors and drums when I got rid of it!
Hi Scotty, I have a Nissan Sentra 2012 with a CVT, I drove it since it was new. Now it has 167k miles and I changed the struts, brakes, spark plugs, and 2 oxygen sensors. Otherwise only regular maintenance.( Full synthetic every 5-7k and 3 transmission fluid changesso far. I really like the way that little car drives. It still makes 30 mpg, no oil consumption, the transmission still works like new. I understand that other nissans might be crappy, but mine sure has served me well so far. My 1999 camry at 240k was consuming 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles and making blue/grey smoke in the morning.
I love your videos, I learned a lot about how to petform the maintenance on my own.
Thank you!
May God bless you!
Love the videos Scotty 👍
Scotty you're the best you save me thousands, thank you ❤️
Turbo vehicles need a separate oil sump for the turbos so when the turbo seals go bad and the turbo starts burning oil it doesn't suck the oil pan dry
You are the MAN! Keep the videos coming. Thank you for all your knowledge.
my father used to use 20w -50 oil , year round in his 350 SB chev . that motor lasted 30 years and 300 k miles
Happy New Year Scotty, thank you for you posts very helpful and informative
Happy new year Scotty, hope you have a blessed one. 🚗
Boston, MA area - I replace the brake pads + bleed & lube the calipers every 2 years & when I replace them I remove the rotors & use a handheld oscillating sander to remove the shininess & rough spots
90% of engine wear at startup. I'd say he's right about that. I either use Castrol Magnatec or Lucas Oil Stabilizer to hopefully do what they advertise and reduce it.
hE should sell an electric oil pump to use push oil up there,,,,as soon as you open the door .that would eliminate wear
I have a 1998 Saturn I bought new,ever since it came out from under warranty I have put Lucus in mine and it must work, I have 330,000 miles on it and still runs like a top and isn't burning oil.
I got a 2012 Hyundai Accent with 147k miles just hit my first problem which is a hole in catalytic converter…other than that a solid car and can’t lie I go over on oil changes all the time . Good car
It's the GDI Theta II motors that are a problem.
As always, good information !!
Happy New Year Scotty. All the best!
Hello Scotty, happy new year!
Happy New Year!
Scotty have u ever tried being a commedian because u crack me up always. Love your show, keep it up.
He is a comedian. A comic actor. He's made a huge amount of money off of the videos.
Loved the Ontario walker picture! Good stuff. Happy New Year Scotty and vid watchers.
Love you and your stories Scotty!
I had a kia spectra with a 4 cyl. And the oil did not get changed regularly. I sold it with almost 300,000 miles and it ran great and didn't use much oil at all. Kia made me a believer
Ya my spectra has 221k on it. bought it with 144k from my sister with spotty service history. Runs like a top. no oil consumption, gonna drive it til the wheels fall off
I change my brake pads and rotors at the same time on my 04' Buick century, thus there is no possibility about the rotors ever warping. Drive and brake with confidence.
My '90 Tbird has the original rotors. 374,000 miles. I sand them when I change pads. They shall be replaced next year.
Stand in front of your work.
@@stevemcgowen I torque all wheel nuts to 76 foot pounds. There's something about that number. It just has a resonance.
Yes, people should check the torque of their wheel nuts. A cheap torque wrench is adequate for that purpose. Even torque is more important than the exact number.
I do the exact same thing with rotors, if they're smooth and not warped, I don't touch 'em, if otherwise, then I replace them. I also check the sliders on the calipers to make sure they haven't seized along with checking pad wear...should be even all around. Uneven wear usually means a sticking caliper-either slider or piston.
Thank you for the video. Blessings to you.
You are the very best mechanic ever. You’ve helped me so many times.
congratulations!
I've had experience with turbos for years. fun to drive however half the engine life no matter what you do.
Scotty: please have a podcast so we could follow you even when we are driving. These videos are great but we need to sit and watch you. A podcast will makes us more thrilled me and tour millions of fans!!! A big YO from Philly
The V10 Ford 3 valve truck engine is one that MUST use 5W-20 oil. Like Scotty says, oil has to get up top fast. The Triton V10 (not to be confused by the 2 valve Ford E-series van engine) also has a balance shaft up top that will score it's bearings (in addition to the 3rd valve cam follower that will get "spit" out of place when the roller on it seizes up from using heavier oil and totally blows up the engine!).
Never did hear him mention what oil to stop using. All he said about oil was use the proper weight oil for the vehicle.
Riiiight stop using oil that is different from thr recommended 5w-20
BUT owners manual is different depending on location: 5W-20 in US and 5W-30 in Europe. This indicates to me the engine can use either oil
5/20 or 5/30 not going to hurt scotty be honest bro
I went from 10 w 30 to 20 W 50 in a old "94 Crown Vic that was rattling. It got quiet. But I did have enough sense to keep the RPMs down until the oil and engine got hot..
I let somebody borrow it. With instruction to wait 10-15 minutes before you pedal to metal. She did not do that. 90 humid degrees outside.
She complained that the A/C quit after 4 miles. I did not tell her it would do that when you trip the A/C relay to get more acceleration
She blew the gasket between the oil filler gasket and the engine. She also complained about the oil leaking on her driveway.
The moral, don't loan a old beater out. Make them rent a car. There is a reason why their cars quit.
Should have gone from 10W-30 to 10W-50 so the oil would be just as thin when engine’s cold
Absolutely correct...the oil filter matters but the weight does not...you could use 5w40 w no issues
@@johnervin1474 Do you reco a magnetic filter ?
I love you Scotty! Your knowledge is priceless!
I had my front rotors turned; there's a specific recommended min thickness, which meant just enough metal could be taken off (less than 1mm) to get them true.
Only time they've been done (100,000 miles) and only time they will be done. Should last the rest of the life of the vehicle.
I reckon the warping happened on a long trip where I was pushing the Explorer really hard on long windy downhills to see what it was capable of.
I think this also caused premature wear on a front wheel bearing I had to replace soon after.
Won't be doing that again! And so I think it should be fine.
"Yundai"
Kills me every time. 🤣🤣🤣
Yun - Die ! lol
Hello Scotty from Mooresville NC
evening!
My 1993 Z28 camaro was made in Canada. I'm the 2nd owner and I bought it in November 1996 and still have it!!! Seems like a pretty good car.
Love the videos scotty The videos really sound like your just talking too me feels nice. Feels personal I like it
Keep it up
Replace, don't turn, a modern brake rotor... I feel validated! It's been my "policy" on my cars for a decade now. A lesson I learned the hard way. And I quit buying rotors from big chain auto parts stores. I buy quality rotors from an on line place that makes their own. The auto store rotors I've bought have all been junk for 10 years now. Junk metal from China.
What site might this be?
I couldn't get rotors that wouldn't warp within 2 weeks on our Caravan. Put on slotted cross drilled rotors from these guys and still going 3 years on including a pad change. Zero problems.
And india for oreilly auto parts lmao
@@slowfeetdonteat I replied but it might have been taken down because it had a link? I just saw my reply wasn't here. The place is called "Brake Performance", and it's a dotcom.
For the person who has the carbon issue on the 250 I recommend change PCV clean throttle body MAF & install oil catch can. Also the difference between a 250 & 350 is 250s are port injected which is why they build up more then the 350s which are direct injected.
usually its direct engines that carbon up, as there's no fuel spraying in the port / back of valve
Thank god my Lexus has dual injectors port and direct, now there’s a manufacturer who cares
Good content Scotty!
HAPPY NEW YEARS SCOTTY
Hey Scotty..... what about adding something like Lucus Synthetic Oil additive to Oil.... Keep those upper cams lubed up during start up. Replacing one of the quarts of oil when doing oil changes. Yeah or Neigh???
I want to know this question too. Have 2002 Camry 240k, and it definitely doesn't like cold start up below 30 degrees. Oil pressure lacking very slightly, seems normal, but I wonder if something like that Lucas oil with a slightly lower viscosity, would help give my car a miniscule boost in oil pressure.
My advice tho, if you end up doing it.. mix the Lucas with your oil in a clear container/cup FIRST, and let it sit for about 3 days to a week, make sure they don't end up separating! Because if that happens in your car, you could be in trouble! Simple differences in additives from different brands is enough to separate the oils, so you have to test it!
@joseph thomas this is why you have to test it first. Every oil from every brand is different, and can react with each other in bad ways. Use the cup method I mentioned! I've heard lots of good from Lucas products as well. Probably wouldn't recommend sea foam for every car, that's for sure
is250’s do have carbon problems they’re notorious for them. it lacks the dual injection the 2GR-FSE has
Oven cleaner and a good run on the highway does the trick
Yes, I heard the same thing.. That is why when they started putting the new 2.5 4 cylinder dynamic Force engine in cars they use both port and direct injection. It works great and keeps the top end of the engine clean.
Hello Scotty from Atlanta ga USA happy new year 2022
I agree Hyundai does not stand behind their cars. My husbands Elantra, that we bought new, manual trans…one day the shifter came out in his hand. I had the car towed to the dealer and they said it wasn’t covered by the 100,000 mile drive train warranty (???) because it’s not part of the transmission (what?). And it would be 1200 dollars to put a new shift handle back in.
Had AAA come back and take my car to my very trusted mechanic and he fixed it for 500 less. I did not go to him in the 1st place because he knew it was under warranty….apparently not. The kicker was that the car only had like 25000 miles on it. No more Hyundai’s in this house.
Nice 90% of engine wear is during startup, does this mean the start/stop systems cause engines to wear out extra fast?
Cold starts are the worst
Ohh yes it does... Start/ Stop is the worst idea, they try treating a ICE like a Electric engine to a certain sense, disable start stop if you can
Study's were done on a cold startup.
@@hajileserpud9539
Plus the anti wear package has been reduced due to the cat converters...double trouble for start stop over life of engine.
I would put an electric lube pump in system that would turn on through relay when engine shut off at stop lights...some of those traffic lights are a minute or two long...more than enough time for oil drain back. The pump would paid for itself yet disabling the stop start function would be cheaper if that is possible.
@@hokehinson5987 that's actually a wonderful idea I never thought of but you are right
I had the oil changed on my 2008 Honda CR-V which uses 5W-20 and the guy almost put in 5W-30 (he thought he grabbed the W20 bottles). Luckily I was there while he was pouring in the oil and mentioned that he has the wrong oil before he poured it in. After seeing this, I’m starting to wonder.
That happened to me before with my 07 civic after seeing 5W-30 on the invoice. Made them drain it and put 5W-20 in it. A lot of people just think oh it's a mid 2000's sedan, must be 5W-30 and don't even bother confirming.
@@liamwelsh5565 good on you for catching that, but it wouldn’t blow your vehicle up if they put 5w30 vs 5w-20.
Doesn't make that big of a difference. I been using 5 30 for years
@@liamwelsh5565 In warm climates like Florida, many shops use 5w30, because 5w20 is so thin that it's like water. You only have a very thin film of oil on moving parts. Ow20 will wear the engine out faster, and you will need to buy another one more often. And the EPA doesn't care about you.
20W50 in my 2012 Accord here in Mexico; 180K so far. Wrong oil or wrong climate. My Toyota Landcruiser used straight 30W year round in Kuwait; 240K problem free.
Scootty your knowledge is fabulous
Get the current Sequoia!! I just got a 2018 and I love it. Look around there’s plenty and they’re not crazy expensive compared to other full size SUV’s!!
Hyundai released a TSB to use a different oil than what is listed on the cap on certain models. If cap says 5-20 hyundai recommends 5-30 and if it recommends 5-30 hyundai says go 5-40
That's funny. The engine is like the main part of the car. How could you get the viscosity wrong? 😆 Of all the things you can get wrong on a mass produced product like cars. You don't know what oil you need to protect the internal engine parts?? Maybe I'm looking at it the wrong way and they used the wrong filler caps but still.
@@justacinnamonbun8658 after all the issues they had with the theta 2 engines they made revisions. Even changed the dipsticks to have a higher oil level in the pan.
@@DoodleyDavid Just... wow. Sounds like a company that makes semi trailers and containers giving it a go on cars. Oh wait nvm... 😆
VW did the same with its 2010+ diesels. Recommended 5w-30 but after excess camshaft wear, upped it to 5w-40 (like their older engines)
I'm from Australia, but my friend lives in Los Angeles he had the motor problem they told him bad luck, I gave him the email address of ceo in sth Korea within two days the local company ask him back to get a new motor replaced free and free car for time off while they fixed it, see pays to go to the top head office
@@angrybastard7364 Absolutely cobber !
Ok....What's his email?
Thank you for your information.
Happy New Year Scotty
You nailed it as usual, Scotty. Always baffles me that people think the factory engineers who designed these motors....should be 2nd guessed as to the oil viscosity. I mean my God...the correct viscosity is listed under the hood...on the fill cap...about 900X in the owners manual. What more do you need to know?
Actually for that model in the owners manual it states to use 5w20 or 5w30 dependent on your geographic location. But believe what you hear on youtube... because that's the best and most accurate source.
Scotty, I just subscribed to your channel because of this video. You said the 2013 Elantra, which I own, is better than the Sentra of the same year. I've got a buddy, one of my roommates, that just bought a 2014 Sentra that the private dealer just paid to get a rebuilt transmission installed on it. So which is better? My 2013 Elantra with the original transmission or my buddy's 2014 Sentra with a rebuilt transmission?
Yours hands down
A friend of mine had a 2013 Sentra he bought new and 2 years later at 59k miles the transmission blew. They are notorious for CVT transmission failures.
The dealer barely honored the warranty because it was under 60k miles and the invoice was $4k for the repair.
Nissan CVT tranmission are notorious for failing...
You came back, YOU'RE RECORDING AGAIN,
YAY, YEAH, WOW !
THANK YOU SCOTTY
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Nissan dealer put 5-20 in my 19 Frontier and said it didn't make a difference even though owner's manual says anything other than 5-30 will void the warranty.
I called Nissan USA and they said warranty issues are up to dealers to settle.
Basically the same dealer who blew up your engine can void the warranty. No more dealer oil change.
Why did you drive away and not make them change the oil back to 5w-30???
@@frandanco6289 because I didn't notice it until I was home and filing the work order away.
Most of these feather weights engines oils 0-20, 0-30, 5-20, 5-30 were designed by lubricate engineers so the American market can meet the federal mandated CAFE. (Corporate Average Fuel Economy).
For instance the honda fit sold in America 09 model used 5-20. Yet the 013 model used 0-20. Same engine, same transmissions. The manufacturer had to go to lighter oil to compete with the CAFE regulation 4 years later. Yet the same honda sold in Europe or elsewhere, same engine & transmissions use 5w30, or 10w30. Many American owers have wised up and gone to the multi weight 30 oils. Volkswagen for instance went to a 5w40 years ago it was difficult to purchase aftermarket.
Being odd as they are with more specialty tools then NASA needed to work on their cars...probably went to 5w40 to persuade owners to use the dealer. Years later its available everywhere!! A good synthetic oil flows much more consistent than the older pure Dino based oils thru the service period. The old stuff would actually increase in viscosity (resistance to pour) thicken as the oil became dirty with combustion by products. The modern oils have additive packages.... The base oil is the first number on any multi weight.
To thicken oil when hot polymers are added. The additives package involved all sorts of chemicals to stabilize the oil during its service interval & minerals, like zinc, copper, etc to help reduce wear.
Diesel rated oils usually have much more anti wear compounds than gasoline rated oils. The engineers found too many minerals affected the life of the catalytic converter. Since the industry went to cats on diesels and DEF possibly diesel oil may have changed too.
Nevertheless Scott is following the middle path. He has liability with what he advises. Just think if Scotty did recommend something other than factory oils he could be open for suit. I'd do the same thing he does, recommend based on factory standards. Honestly, most folks are like oddball from Kelley's heros. " ah man I just drive it I don't know how it works!" Here's a good example:
My FIL put water in his engine crank case thinking he was filling the radiator. ...he was a white collar worker with no back ground with cars...never owned a car until moving out of his home state. My sister did the same thing to her little fiat 600. The industry has to protect itself from the top to the bottom.
I switched oil weights on my fit. did not affect mileage that I could observe. the engine runs smoother,, quite and the older honda fit seems to have better performance thru RPM range its approaching 200k.
Yet if I did lived where the temps go below freezing and stay that way for weeks...months yeah I would do as owners did long ago change the oil to lighter grade for winter. The old winterization which pretty much is gone except for maybe snow tyres..due to multi viscosity oils & synthetics.
Cheers.
The oil does not contain additives to prevent it from getting thick when cold, it's the other way around. Multi viscosity oil has the base viscosity of the W-side of the viscosity numbers, and contains additives to prevent it from getting too thin when it's hot. Synthetic oils need less viscosity improving additives though, since their base oils can take more heat without thinging out so much. It's also important to understand that 0W oils are not thinner when cold than when hot, they are positvely thicker when cold. And 0W does not imply zero viscosity, or thin as water at all.
@@per-arnealmeflo2721 👍
On start up at 0 degrees, 5w-20 and 5w-30 are the same. That is the 5 number. the 20 and the 30 are the weight at 100 degrees. Beyond that, I agree, run the weight that the manufacturer spec's unless you have done significant research.
Celsius degrees
Find me one viscosity chart that show a 5w20 good to 100F. The only ones that do are from owners manuals and they can be falsified by the car manufacturer.
Thank you Scotty.
Scotty, that IS250 he speaks of is actually one of the few Toyota motors that DOES have serious carbon build up as it's an early DI design, it's not D4-S, like the IS350. Videos are great though 👌
Outstanding man knows his sh#@ great job Scotty love to hear from you 5 stars motor head
The pictures you use while describing things 😂 so funny. My mom's not even into cars and I got her watching you for the simple fact that you're hilarious 😂
Good Stuff,Great Tips 😄👍🏿
I love you man. You wompom hard with the real facts.
👋Hey Scotty! I agree with you 💯 that Toyota makes a far superior car. However... My sister's 2013 Kia Optima turbo has 230k miles on it and we thought it broke down! It would only go 20mph. Turns out 🐈's were clogged! Knocked em out tossed the pipes back in, had to reset TPS and it's back to business 👍 did 120mph easily
Had the same problem with my 2003 Malibu, replaced the cat and it ran fine.
@Mr MopedMadness bring that car to Scotty. He would say you have gotten your money’s worth out of your optima. A lot of optima’s don’t last like yours has.
There is only one cat for that car... and if you modify the midpipe on the stock tune you'll overboost in cold temps and blow the engine (probably cylinder #2 due to the design).
Yea, the dealership had a TSB for air-fuel ratio sensors causing rich conditions. Over time, that would carbon up the converter.
I greatly appreciate your advice and honesty Scotty. I am 17 and have learned so much from your videos! Not many people these days are as honest as you. I have a question. Is it possible to reprogram the actual sound of the turn signal within the dash on modern vehicles where a noise is programmed into the computer? Could I take it to the dealer to reprogram it. It sounds a little silly but I am interested to know.
anything is possible. technically speaking, yes it is. how you would go about it would all depend on various things and how and what you plan to make the new noise with is another thing
Depends on what you have. I've been able to change the signal sound on my envy-inducing 14' Mitsubishi Mirage.
Good Stuff Great Tips😄👍🏿
I drive past the Ford Oakville Plant a couple of times a years taking the boat for storage.
So, I didn't catch what oil not to use anymore. I have primarily used Castrol semi synthetic for over a decade, K&N air filter, and fram tough guard oil filter. Aside from that, Scotty, since I am a gear head too, I enjoy the technical talk. What is your view on a 2007 Mustang GT?
There was no specific brand to not use...it was no thicker oil in winter if ur manual says ,say 10/30
It was literally the first paragraph
BUT owners manual is different depending on location: 5W-20 in US and 5W-30 in Europe. This indicates to me the engine can use either oil
Scotty - Here's an unsolicited testimonial regarding Hyundai. Original owner of an 08 Elantra and I have never added a drop of engine oil in 166,000 miles. The oil gets changed every 5,000 miles, religiously.
The oil recommended is not "designed by engineers to best fit the car." It's designed because the factory has to comply with government regulations to achieve a high mpg. It's then posted on the vehicle window proudly as a feature with no regard for engine protection.
Evening Scotty!
evening!
Hyundai = Rhymes with Sunday
C'mon Scotty 😂
I know he won't listen. I don't know where in the hell he's coming up with this pronunciation
Hyundai rhymes with "cheap Korean death box" Wouldn't take one for free. Been a mechanic for 25 years.
Scotty: you can’t see electricity.
Spark plugs: hold my beer
Alot of the time its superficial damage. Surface damage and the insurance writes it off. I have gotten two great reconstructions. That were my most fav cars. Cheap.