Here's Why Mechanics Hate Jeeps: ua-cam.com/video/q9bnvH0L0tg/v-deo.html Thanks for watching! Like and Subscribe for More Vids Daily ► ua-cam.com/channels/uxpxCCevIlF-k-K5YU8XPA.html ⬇️Scotty’s Top DIY Tools: 1. Bluetooth Scan Tool: amzn.to/2nfvmaD 2. Mid-Grade Scan Tool: amzn.to/33dKI0k 3. My Fancy (Originally $5,000) Professional Scan Tool: amzn.to/31khBXC 4. Cheap Scan Tool: amzn.to/2D8Tvae 5. Dash Cam (Every Car Should Have One): amzn.to/2YQW36t 6. Basic Mechanic Tool Set: amzn.to/2tEr6Ce 7. Professional Socket Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg 8. Ratcheting Wrench Set: amzn.to/2BQjj8A 9. No Charging Required Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/3i7SH5D 10. Battery Pack Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2nrc6qR ⬇️ Things used in this video: 1. Common Sense 2. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2HkjavH 3. Camera Microphone: amzn.to/2Evn167 4. Camera Tripod: amzn.to/2Jwog8S 5. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/301tYt9 🛠Check out the tools I use and highly recommend ► goo.gl/rwYt2y Subscribe and hit the notification bell! ► goo.gl/CFismN
Scotty Kilmer ? What type of motor oil should I use on a freshly installed remanufactured engine that's not broken in ? After the break in the remanufactured engine. What motor oil should I use ?
Pro tip: Clean your funnel before pouring fresh oil in to your engine. Then, don't toss the funnel on to the ground. Wipe it out and store it in a clean place until the next use.
A super easy underrated way is to just not put oil in. Therefore there will be no chance of a contamination or dirty engine! I usually just flush my engine with dish soap and a water hose! 😎
Scotty is so powerful he went ahead of time into winter to demonstrate oil in the cold for us, AND then went back into hotter weather. Truly a god among men
Professor Kilmer, schooling us today on petroleum engineering, mechanical engineering, metallurgy, and chemical engineering! That's why I've been here for almost ten years. LOVE you, Scotty!
If you need a beaker bar to remove an oil drain plug, it's not because you're weak, it's because the guy that changed it before you needs to go on decaf, or at least learn how to use a torque wrench.
My dad used to tell me to put oil on the seal of the new oil filter and I've been doing that for years. Gald to see that it's still being taught and implemented to mechanics watching your channel
Good point. I changed the oil in my Outback last spring. Next oil change, couldn’t understand why filter wouldn’t come off. Then rememberedI didn’t oil the gasket. Eventually got it off with the help of my mechanic cousin.
He’s good cause he’s honest. I don’t know him personally but if he takes the time to make a video to teach us something good that we can all benefit from to me that’s a sign of a good honest man.
I always read the owner's manual When it comes to finding out what oil my car needs My old Kia I found out It could take 2 oils But it also depends on climate/where you live My old Kia could take 5w20 and 5w30 But it recommended 5w30 For warmer climates and 5w20 for colder climates I live in California So I used 5W-30
You’re the Best Scotty!! I LOVE ALL of your videos. Lay down the law Scotty! I’ve been doing my own oil changes since 1979 when I was the first girl ever in the history of my school to take auto mechanics. But I ALWAYS learn something new from your videos. AWESOME!!
You must not have a working odometer. I always changed mine on the 5,000 mile count. My son goes by 3,000 up to 6,000 then does 4,000 so he can start off at at zero again.
I have a degree and automotive and over 20 years of experience. I have worked on everything from jaguars, Ferrari's and maserati. I'm an expert Mercedes Benz technician. & I approve Scottie's message! Well done my man
@Sblackfll You know one thing to point out actually working for different manufacturers sometimes you'll have have different terminologies for adaptations or Adaptive strategies the computers will run. Different terminologies for limp home mode. And I would explain them differently if I'm talking about a jaguar or a or Mercedes so in in all likelihood maybe You should contrast that with whoever you have worked for .... and maybe that's why you're in disagreement with Mr. Scotty here.
This Peruvian here really appreciate your very informative and full of knowledge videos )))) Muchas gracias for letting us enjoy and learn at the same time Mr. Scott !!
On engine oil weights, like in my beater Mazda 3, it having almost 200k I adjusted for the internal wear and tear plus the heat of Summer, I went from a 5W20 to a 10W40 and will adjust to a 10W30 for Winter. With the engine showing lower oil pressure than normal,adjusting weights to manage the pressure. This will allow good lubrication and less likely for bearing failure. The previous owner didn’t do this and the timing chain wore out, luckily he sold it before the bearings went so I am able to prevent any further damage.
At about the 1 minute point as Scott lie on the ground with his dark glasses, for that moment he looks like Peter Sellers in the 1964 movie Doctor Strangelove
Back in time when my family owned our first car, we hardly ever did an oil change, as the engine would use about one pint every 1000 miles. We would top up the oil in a garage that had a forecourt dispenser; 50 SAE for summer use, and 30 SAE for winter use, So at any one time we would have a mixture of the two in the engine. The pistons then were pure aluminium, and the cylinders were cast iron. Nowadays Chromium Steel is used for the cylinders, and the pistons are made of a harder mixture of metals.
Wow that's amazing. That's why they call new oil SAE 30w-50 for example. If you used 30 SAE there was nothing you could do about it when the engine reached full temperature. It's thinner. Technology did come a long way and engines are better than ever!
I learnt alot from Scotty. before buying a used hybrid, i listened his advice and bought used Honda and saved alot of money. he is helping alot of people and giving best advices. those luxury car collectors such as Manny Khoshbin should invite you and learn from you.
I have done dozens and dozens of oil changes through the years and never once changed the crush washer, never had one oil drain plug leak ever. I have a Hyundai and I use the OEM filters, they are not high priced at all, and good quality.
Yeah, I know what you are saying. I have been changing oil in vehicles since I was 13 years old and now I’m well into retirement. I never used to change those gaskets - until I got a leak a few years ago, now I change the gasket every time. It’s cheap, easy, and better than leaving oil spots on the driveway and garage floor.
3:30 that actually happened to me. I took off the wix oil filter and put a new one on when I changed the oil and didnt realize the gasket had come off. I always start my car after i change the oil to make sure there are no leaks and to let it warm up and then check the levels again. Fortunately I did that because as soon as I started the car the oil started pouring out. If I hadnt done that it could have been a bad day for sure.
I got a 15 Prius with around 95k on it and I’ve always done my oil changes every 5k miles. I use Mobile 1 for hybrids. So far so good and my car runs like a champ.
Warranties ended and due to *reasons* I eventually used the same diesel truck engine oil in my high mileage Honda City car & CB500F bike. It's been 2 years and ~100,000 km later now for the car without issues (20,000 for bike). Changed it every 10,000 km (5,000 for bike). Owners manual call for API SL and the Caltex Delo 400 MGX I use is API SM which is a newer superset of the specs. So much easier now keeping track of just one oil drum and it's just $60 for 18L.
I would love to see a breakdown of the better/worse ecoboost v6 engines. I know the four cylinders are junk, and the earlier v6 models had chain tensioner/guide problems. They made a lot of improvements in 2017(really 2016), 2018, and in 2020 or 2021.
In 1974, I bought a 1962 Studebaker Hawk, and started using Chevron Delo 400 oil. It was very high detergent, and after a while it started burning oil. When I took the valve covers off, everything was much cleaner than when I adjusted the valve lifters just after I bought it. I had to rebuild the engine soon after.
I have changed my Oil a few times before but today 2.5k miles since I've changed it. I noticed a puddle of oil under my car this morning when I took my dog for walk. Checked oil level and it was right on or just before the minimum mark on the dip stick. The oil filter had become loose, I have always hand tightened my filters like I see everyone do here on UA-cam. I for now on will use a tool to make sure it's on tight enough and Recommend everyone else does this avoid the situation I had.
My high miles as well, that the engine as far I know!! Never had problem, no check engine lite at all!! I am too old for oil changes, brake fuid I let my a trusted local shop do it for us!!
I have a 2003 Dodge Dakota with the 4.7L V-8 (170K miles) and a 2008 Charger with the 3.5L V-6 (100K miles). I normally run the full synthetic Valvoline High Mileage, but decided to try the Penzoil Platinum on my last oil change. Used the same viscocity, and lost a couple MPG. Engine noise was also noticeably greater on both vehicles.
8:00 last year supertech Walmart had 0w-16 oil, only to see it completey disappear for some of reason, I shoulda bought their entire stock it was on sale for $13.50 5 quarts! I don't see it anywhere even online for the supertech brand
Blends have always been a joke to me … like margarine lol .. you can’t get any information on what percentage of mix is used !!! Ect ect ect … ( still can’t believe that anyone would buy it !! ) .. ( I personally believe that it’s just a bad 1/2 step in the wrong direction… ) also I have no faith in STP , back in the day it was not what it claimed to be.. so I don’t mess with it now lol
I like what he said about engine flushes because there are so many fans of helping the engine and extending its life by flushing it. Hope fully Scotty explained it properly so you listen to him.
One point I'll make is while he's right about getting the correct viscosity oil, you don't have to use the exact same winter viscosity. For example if your car says 10w30, it's just fine to use a 5w30 or 0w30. In fact those are arguably better. Even if you don't live in a cold climate, lower winter viscosity still gets flowing faster which protects your engine better. Just don't use a _higher_ winter viscosity. If it says 0w30, ONLY use that; do NOT use 5w30 or 10w30. But as he says, getting the correct normal viscosity is paramount. Make SURE that second number is right. Putting a 20 or 40 oil in your car that needs 30 WILL damage the engine.
One day I thought let’s see what this guy has to say. It quickly became my go to for learning and I’ve turned all my friends and family onto scotty’s channel. It’s no doubt the place to go when you have any questions
I’ve been researching way too much and even tired AMSOIL (I’m sure it’s a quality oil) only to go back to Mobil 1 or Valvoline with the same good results. in my opinion AMSOIL is not worth the money and Change Intervals with the correct Grade is far more important. Thank You Scotty for the education! Really appreciate it
Back in the mid 1980s there used to be a brand name oil commercial on TV where they used the term "weight" instead of winter to describe viscosity. That just might have been where it got it's start.
@@irongoose3865 - It goes back a long way before that - to an era when few mechanics & vehicle owners understood (or even heard) the word "viscosity." TV adverts use the language people already understand - otherwise there's no point in advertising.
@@irongoose3865 In the old days of Single Grade Oils were called W=Weight. Remember my father useing W30 in summer and W20 for winter back in Minnisota, we moved to Seattle and he used straight W30. The Multi Grade Oils came out in the 1950s.
Your right again Scotty, you got the ones that care and maintain their cars properly. You also have the ones that don't have it in mind and scratching their heads on why the cars have problems a couple of years down the road. Unless you bought a lemon in the first place. 😎👍
Just had a head gasket done and the mechanic said he was amazed how clean the engine is @110,000 miles CHANGE YOUR OIL FOLKS !!!!!!! Italian tunes up also help 😉
An oldschool trick is to lubricate your new oil filter gasket before putting the oil filter on. Scotty covers this. It makes your next oil change significantly easier when removing the filter.
"Permanent anti-freeze" - the people who actually bought into that, ruin their cooling system from corrosion. "LIFETIME TRANSMISSION FLUID" - complete the sentence
I had a buddy that was the maintenance planner for a three unit coal-fired electrical generation plant. He showed me catalogs of lubricants that would last the lifetime of any motor vehicle since those would be light-duty applications and their rated lifespan for severe duty use varied from 30,000 to 50,000 hours. Those also were insanely expensive with one synthetic lube running $50,000 for a 30 gallon drum.
That’s not always the case , you should always check the service manual to select the correct grade of oil for your climate. This applies to all engines .
I've watched videos on testing oil filters and I was amazed how bad some oil filters are. Some of the popular filters that you think would be a decent filter such as Fram are total junk.
Interestingly enough, the Motorcraft filter FL-820S recommended for my old Explorer is one of the cheapest out there ($4 at Walmart). Usually Motorcraft-branded anything is expensive.
I've ran cars on thicker oil. The worst thing that happened was I got slightly worse gas mileage. Thicker oil does protect metal parts better. My motorcycle also lists two oils I can use. Either 10w-30 or 10w-40. It says to use 10w-40 for warm weather and 10w-30 for colder weather. This was from the service manual, btw. This certainly depends on the car. New cars are just running on thinner oil since it reduces friction and improves gas mileage. My 2015 civic runs on 5w-20, while many of my old Hondas ran on 5w-30. You can also get away with using 10w-30 of you live in warmer climate like California.
I work at valvoline instant oil change and I use spring cups ALL the time but one little trick with them sometimes you can’t reach the filter to fit the cup on it so you can actually turn the ratchet to tighten and u press it on the filter and start trying to tighten it and it will loosen the springcup and put the ratchet back on loosen and you’ll be able to loosen it without touching the filter or spring cup at all
BAD idea. Too many opportunities to introduce (microscopic) contaminates into the outflow of the filter, and therefore INTO the engine, completely bypassing the functionality of the filter.
@@bobberndt9744 Microscopic contaminates? Like what? From where? Pour the oil into the filter, put it on, no time for contaminates. If that were the case, those contaminates will flow right into the engine when you pour the oil in. The reason for filling the filter is that oil will go into the engine right away instead of waiting for the pump to fill the filter.
I never fill a vehicle with engine oil based on watch recommended and just walk away and take it for a test drive I always check the dipstick! That's even if the dipstick is going to be accurate! Assuming it should be because of some manufacturer! I will feel the engine checking the dipstick make sure that it is at the full Mark sometimes and only because of my experience all those past the full Mark then start and run the engine rather it be gas or diesel, and let it run for about a minute not that it really needs that long for the oil to start circulating, but are usually do this because I might have to log something into a computer or whatever but I give at least a minute then I shut the engine off and give another minute or so for everything to settle down and I check the dipstick again, and surprisingly regardless of the manufacturer's recommendations or suggested amounts of oil it will vary I found myself adding up to a couple quarts! Or actually having to drain a few! I don't really have to drain any more oil but this was in my earlier days!
If you can't get the oil filter off by hand and don't have a filter wrench, you can use your belt. Helped me when I couldn't find mine while moving into a new house.
Exception on using different oil from what owners manual states to use, TSB. You may have an older vehicle that calls for 5W30 oil, however there is a Technical Service Bulletin that says to use 5W20 oil. Ford, GM, and others do this. You can easily find out on Google if your vehicle has a TSB for the motor oil.
your definitely not full of crap Scotty I have learned quite alot from you and have saved alot of money as well being able to do my own repairs so thank you for being a great teacher dude. 😊
Howdy Mr Kilmer....Big Fan Here..I almost blew my jeep engine too..I had to fish for my new gasket that the back yard mechanic just threw away...I was going for a 1800 miles to Oregon and back...
I have a ’11 Corolla with 94k miles and I change the oil with 0W-20 every 5k miles (vs the 10k stated). I used to change it 2x/year as I used to drive 100 miles day round trip for work. Now that I don’t do that anymore, I barely drive 5k/year. Currently I have 3,300 miles since my last change about 14 months ago. I typically lose ½ qt oil in between changes, and I think that’s been happening since I bought the car new (owner’s manual states for my engine with filter the change should be 4.4 qts., and to me it looks full after only 4.0 qts., so I stop filling at 4.0 qts.). My dad has a ’10 Corolla 78k miles and same driving scenario; it uses 5W-20 it gets changes ~4.5k miles and it calls for 5k mile intervals (dealer told me that both engines are the same). Manual also states with filter it should use 4.4 qts, but only 4.0 qts go in as it too looks full at that point. It too uses ½ qt in between changes. I have heard people say that time is also a consideration with changes and would like to know the facts on time alone with regards to the oil and potential causes done to the engine.
In the rare instance that there is no gusting wind you should use a tremendous shop fan this way it blows your oil everywhere once you pull that drain plug out. You got to stay consistent
I just changed my oil an hour ago Scotty. 244,000 miles on my Jeep Commander and it still runs strong. Edit: you said in a previous video that you didn't necessarily need to change the drain plug gasket. I haven't ever changed it. In this video you say to change it every time.
one thing I have found and recommend is that you use the same brand of oil, do not mix brands due to the different formulas and detergents they use I have found well maintained engines that used all brands get a foam buildup and some time sludging but on my cars using the same brand and 200k miles the engine is clean. and I use Jiffy lube to do my oil changes ( I do watch them to make sure they do it and I also make sure it is not overfilled ) but they use the same brand always and it saves you the trouble and time as well as disposing the old oil
in Texas very hot only run 10w40 in my 06 2.5L Nissan Altima at 130k now still runs like a new car and dose not leak a drop ...also nothing but conventional oil every 5k miles and new air filter every 10k miles with oil change
Walmart stripped my wife’s drain plug and the damn thing is completely stuck. It jumped the threads or something. Nobody can get it off. I had to order an entire drain pan and now I get to replace that next week. Don’t go to Walmart! Do it yourself.
Agree with pretty much everything you say Scotty but as most engine specs come with a range of oil weights I tend to go up a weight once the motor goes over 100k
Thanks, me too. Interestingly,my 2007 CANYON 4/Cyl : specs for 5 W-30; @100,000**I upped to 10W-30 (( full SYN MOB1) in 2014:::::::: moved to HELENA MT, & the -30F,, was a little THICK , so,have gone back to 5 W-30 SYNTHETIC ( * Actually, my Tire Shop Point S, uses VALVOLINE / Filters, as I decided to let my Mechanics, tired of messing, &/reasonable $$.
An essential video for better understanding how to make your car's engine to last longer and run efficiently! Pay attention and you will save money in car lasting longer and on repairs. Scotty, I respect your knowledge and passion to share your experience with others. Keep it up, even if it does offend others.
Here's Why Mechanics Hate Jeeps: ua-cam.com/video/q9bnvH0L0tg/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching! Like and Subscribe for More Vids Daily ► ua-cam.com/channels/uxpxCCevIlF-k-K5YU8XPA.html
⬇️Scotty’s Top DIY Tools:
1. Bluetooth Scan Tool: amzn.to/2nfvmaD
2. Mid-Grade Scan Tool: amzn.to/33dKI0k
3. My Fancy (Originally $5,000) Professional Scan Tool: amzn.to/31khBXC
4. Cheap Scan Tool: amzn.to/2D8Tvae
5. Dash Cam (Every Car Should Have One): amzn.to/2YQW36t
6. Basic Mechanic Tool Set: amzn.to/2tEr6Ce
7. Professional Socket Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg
8. Ratcheting Wrench Set: amzn.to/2BQjj8A
9. No Charging Required Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/3i7SH5D
10. Battery Pack Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2nrc6qR
⬇️ Things used in this video:
1. Common Sense
2. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2HkjavH
3. Camera Microphone: amzn.to/2Evn167
4. Camera Tripod: amzn.to/2Jwog8S
5. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/301tYt9
🛠Check out the tools I use and highly recommend ► goo.gl/rwYt2y
Subscribe and hit the notification bell! ► goo.gl/CFismN
plz link me that oil filter socket. i have been takn my cars to valvoline because i can never get the filters off.
Scotty.... do you use "new oil" on the filter gasket or "used oil"?
That your old place .. what great memories
Scotty Kilmer ? What type of motor oil should I use on a freshly installed remanufactured engine that's not broken in ? After the break in the remanufactured engine. What motor oil should I use ?
Im no fancy professional mechanic like Scotty..but in my opinion I say...
Aint broke.. Dont fix it.
Pro tip: Clean your funnel before pouring fresh oil in to your engine. Then, don't toss the funnel on to the ground. Wipe it out and store it in a clean place until the next use.
I store my funnels in plastic bags. Spray them with carb cleaner.
Or don't use a funnel. Can al2ays have a spare oil can you can decant oil into.
You mean, use your brain and common sense?😃
@@liviubita4238 You know it!😁
A super easy underrated way is to just not put oil in. Therefore there will be no chance of a contamination or dirty engine! I usually just flush my engine with dish soap and a water hose! 😎
Scotty is so powerful he went ahead of time into winter to demonstrate oil in the cold for us, AND then went back into hotter weather. Truly a god among men
For sure.
Professor Kilmer, schooling us today on petroleum engineering, mechanical engineering, metallurgy, and chemical engineering! That's why I've been here for almost ten years. LOVE you, Scotty!
I think he’s married dude
@@TurkeyCreekjackjohnson_ c'mon now, let a man dream!
This guy would be a Nobel Peace Prize winner for saving humanity lol
If you need a beaker bar to remove an oil drain plug, it's not because you're weak, it's because the guy that changed it before you needs to go on decaf, or at least learn how to use a torque wrench.
@@TurkeyCreekjackjohnson_ ROFL! Like my dad or grandpa, bro. Clever response, though.
This is a textbook oil change. It's insane how many other videos take it to lightly or too in depth. This is perfection.
Perfection would be using a clean funnel to pour fresh oil into the engine, as opposed to one with visible debris!
Text book oil change lol, using a breaker bar for the drain plug and a dirty funnel lmao
scottys driveway in Houston videos never get old.. the legend has spoken!!
I was just saying that when it came on! Things seemed simpler then.
Here i thought i was the only one with a sappy sentimentality for the red garage with a busted door.
I thought he said that they built townhouses there.
My dad used to tell me to put oil on the seal of the new oil filter and I've been doing that for years. Gald to see that it's still being taught and implemented to mechanics watching your channel
Good point. I changed the oil in my Outback last spring. Next oil change, couldn’t understand why filter wouldn’t come off. Then rememberedI didn’t oil the gasket. Eventually got it off with the help of my mechanic cousin.
Yup, dad taught me the same. Also, the absolute fun flathead screwdriver to the filter trick because some shop tightened a filter on too tight. Lol
My step Dad always instructed me as a boy, always wipe the surface before screwing on the filter and drain plug. -Sound advice!
I trust Scotty when it comes to cars I wouldn’t dare question him
He’s good cause he’s honest. I don’t know him personally but if he takes the time to make a video to teach us something good that we can all benefit from to me that’s a sign of a good honest man.
@fawn fairy lol he just played with the youtube algorithm😂 genius
Uncle Scotty loves being questioned
You should always question…
@@BeyondLumination
Unless it's a guy in a white lab coat. Never EVER question him. He knows what's best for you
“Oil is cheaper than metal”- Scotty Kilmer
Boom!
It’s def not cheaper
@@Acidburn3141what’s cheaper bozo a new engine or engine oil
I always read the owner's manual When it comes to finding out what oil my car needs My old Kia I found out It could take 2 oils But it also depends on climate/where you live My old Kia could take 5w20 and 5w30 But it recommended 5w30 For warmer climates and 5w20 for colder climates I live in California So I used 5W-30
You’re the Best Scotty!! I LOVE ALL of your videos. Lay down the law Scotty! I’ve been doing my own oil changes since 1979 when I was the first girl ever in the history of my school to take auto mechanics. But I ALWAYS learn something new from your videos. AWESOME!!
-One thing for sure, when you do a LOF, (lube, oil and filter), you know the job was done right! I call that peace of mind...
Who’s holding Donna now? 😊
Always make sure the drain plug gasket isnt stuck to the oil pan, dont want to double up on those either.
1:33 😂
Can confirm
I have done over 450 oil changes and had the filter gasket stick to the engine once. The drain plug gasket, never.
👌🏿👌🏿I’ve started changing my oil every 3 months. March03 june06 September 09 December 12. Easy to remember
How many miles do you drive per year ?
You must not have a working odometer. I always changed mine on the 5,000 mile count. My son goes by 3,000 up to 6,000 then does 4,000 so he can start off at at zero again.
@@Azureecosse about 5 thousand on a 1999 with about 160k miles. Moneys not an issue AT ALL. My pockets will thank me later😌😉
@@dwightmitchell1464 ummm 5k every oil change so 20-25
@@billwilson3609 wow good for you and good for your son!!! I change my oil every 3 months AND take note of how much miles I’m at. I’m no airhead👍🏿
Fond memories of the old Houston videos I am so old I remember watching Scotty on television
Pro tip: check your owners manual. It may actually give you different oil requirements based on the ambient temperature.
Uuuyy
Uuuyy
Are those found in the cubby hole or glove compartment?
True
@@rsbreeze spare tire
IM OBSESSED WITH SCOTTY VIDEOS! 😅
I have a degree and automotive and over 20 years of experience. I have worked on everything from jaguars, Ferrari's and maserati. I'm an expert Mercedes Benz technician. & I approve Scottie's message! Well done my man
welcome to the club!
Maserati
@@markhartman7939 Google speech function didn't even check it.. Seems like it works pretty terrible these days
@Sblackfll You know one thing to point out actually working for different manufacturers sometimes you'll have have different terminologies for adaptations or Adaptive strategies the computers will run. Different terminologies for limp home mode. And I would explain them differently if I'm talking about a jaguar or a or Mercedes so in in all likelihood maybe You should contrast that with whoever you have worked for .... and maybe that's why you're in disagreement with Mr. Scotty here.
This Peruvian here really appreciate your very informative and full of knowledge videos )))) Muchas gracias for letting us enjoy and learn at the same time Mr. Scott !!
On engine oil weights, like in my beater Mazda 3, it having almost 200k I adjusted for the internal wear and tear plus the heat of Summer, I went from a 5W20 to a 10W40 and will adjust to a 10W30 for Winter. With the engine showing lower oil pressure than normal,adjusting weights to manage the pressure. This will allow good lubrication and less likely for bearing failure. The previous owner didn’t do this and the timing chain wore out, luckily he sold it before the bearings went so I am able to prevent any further damage.
At about the 1 minute point as Scott lie on the ground with his dark glasses, for that moment he looks like Peter Sellers in the 1964 movie Doctor Strangelove
I've been using an oil vacuum fluid extractor pump and suck out the oil through the dipstick tube. Quick, simple, and less messy.
Back in time when my family owned our first car, we hardly ever did an oil change, as the engine would use about one pint every 1000 miles. We would top up the oil in a garage that had a forecourt dispenser; 50 SAE for summer use, and 30 SAE for winter use, So at any one time we would have a mixture of the two in the engine. The pistons then were pure aluminium, and the cylinders were cast iron. Nowadays Chromium Steel is used for the cylinders, and the pistons are made of a harder mixture of metals.
Wow that's amazing. That's why they call new oil SAE 30w-50 for example.
If you used 30 SAE there was nothing you could do about it when the engine reached full temperature. It's thinner. Technology did come a long way and engines are better than ever!
10W-30 and 40 was around in the '60's. Always covered the bases!
I learnt alot from Scotty. before buying a used hybrid, i listened his advice and bought used Honda and saved alot of money. he is helping alot of people and giving best advices.
those luxury car collectors such as Manny Khoshbin should invite you and learn from you.
I have done dozens and dozens of oil changes through the years and never once changed the crush washer, never had one oil drain plug leak ever. I have a Hyundai and I use the OEM filters, they are not high priced at all, and good quality.
Yeah, I know what you are saying. I have been changing oil in vehicles since I was 13 years old and now I’m well into retirement. I never used to change those gaskets - until I got a leak a few years ago, now I change the gasket every time. It’s cheap, easy, and better than leaving oil spots on the driveway and garage floor.
Good to see I'm not the only one who writes the date and mileage on oil filters when changing it. Problem with new cartridge filters though.
There are different colored paint markers you can use for that.
I have an oil filter wrench that's made out ot a bicycle chain.
Works good, even in tight spaces.
3:30 that actually happened to me. I took off the wix oil filter and put a new one on when I changed the oil and didnt realize the gasket had come off. I always start my car after i change the oil to make sure there are no leaks and to let it warm up and then check the levels again. Fortunately I did that because as soon as I started the car the oil started pouring out. If I hadnt done that it could have been a bad day for sure.
Scotty’s voice is so comforting because I watch him every day, it’s like being at home.
Loll
I couldn't agree more. You won't forget his voice, once you've listened awhile.
I got a 15 Prius with around 95k on it and I’ve always done my oil changes every 5k miles. I use Mobile 1 for hybrids. So far so good and my car runs like a champ.
Make sure the car is level so all the oil drains out evenly. Don't just jack up one side unless you have a side exit sump
you can jack it back down while it's draining to get the remainder
Warranties ended and due to *reasons* I eventually used the same diesel truck engine oil in my high mileage Honda City car & CB500F bike. It's been 2 years and ~100,000 km later now for the car without issues (20,000 for bike). Changed it every 10,000 km (5,000 for bike). Owners manual call for API SL and the Caltex Delo 400 MGX I use is API SM which is a newer superset of the specs. So much easier now keeping track of just one oil drum and it's just $60 for 18L.
I would love to see a breakdown of the better/worse ecoboost v6 engines.
I know the four cylinders are junk, and the earlier v6 models had chain tensioner/guide problems. They made a lot of improvements in 2017(really 2016), 2018, and in 2020 or 2021.
In 1974, I bought a 1962 Studebaker Hawk, and started using Chevron Delo 400 oil. It was very high detergent, and after a while it started burning oil. When I took the valve covers off, everything was much cleaner than when I adjusted the valve lifters just after I bought it. I had to rebuild the engine soon after.
Evening SCOTTY
You are the best! 😊
I have changed my Oil a few times before but today 2.5k miles since I've changed it. I noticed a puddle of oil under my car this morning when I took my dog for walk. Checked oil level and it was right on or just before the minimum mark on the dip stick. The oil filter had become loose, I have always hand tightened my filters like I see everyone do here on UA-cam. I for now on will use a tool to make sure it's on tight enough and Recommend everyone else does this avoid the situation I had.
I tend to go 1/8 turn after hand tightening with it. You want to be able to get it off too.
I got a 02 Tahoe 5.3 ls vortec it has 2
299530 runs good its 4x4
My high miles as well, that the engine as far I know!! Never had problem, no check engine lite at all!! I am too old for oil changes, brake fuid I let my a trusted local shop do it for us!!
I'm 77..Been changing my own oil since I was 14 and NEVER changed the gasket and NEVER had an issue!!
I love when he pops up with a video that was shot in Houston.
I have a 2003 Dodge Dakota with the 4.7L V-8 (170K miles) and a 2008 Charger with the 3.5L V-6 (100K miles). I normally run the full synthetic Valvoline High Mileage, but decided to try the Penzoil Platinum on my last oil change. Used the same viscocity, and lost a couple MPG. Engine noise was also noticeably greater on both vehicles.
Always like that BA Fan.. Hope Scotty took it with him when he left Houston.
course he did, can't imagine him leaving something like that!
8:00 last year supertech Walmart had 0w-16 oil, only to see it completey disappear for some of reason, I shoulda bought their entire stock it was on sale for $13.50 5 quarts! I don't see it anywhere even online for the supertech brand
I put Pennzoil Full Synthetic into my car replacing a Synthetic Blend and my Engine immediately sounded much healthier
Blends have always been a joke to me … like margarine lol .. you can’t get any information on what percentage of mix is used !!! Ect ect ect … ( still can’t believe that anyone would buy it !! ) .. ( I personally believe that it’s just a bad 1/2 step in the wrong direction… ) also I have no faith in STP , back in the day it was not what it claimed to be.. so I don’t mess with it now lol
I like what he said about engine flushes because there are so many fans of helping the engine and extending its life by flushing it. Hope fully Scotty explained it properly so you listen to him.
I love the dedication to wait until it’s cold and snowy, to do a clip on how conventional versus synthetic oil flows. Bravo Mr Kilmer
Or you could read the data sheets online every oil manufacturer puts out their cold flow rate
Snug and a quarter turn more. Works for many applications! -Not so tight it takes a gorilla to get it off the next change. Thanks Scotty!
One point I'll make is while he's right about getting the correct viscosity oil, you don't have to use the exact same winter viscosity. For example if your car says 10w30, it's just fine to use a 5w30 or 0w30. In fact those are arguably better. Even if you don't live in a cold climate, lower winter viscosity still gets flowing faster which protects your engine better. Just don't use a _higher_ winter viscosity. If it says 0w30, ONLY use that; do NOT use 5w30 or 10w30.
But as he says, getting the correct normal viscosity is paramount. Make SURE that second number is right. Putting a 20 or 40 oil in your car that needs 30 WILL damage the engine.
One day I thought let’s see what this guy has to say. It quickly became my go to for learning and I’ve turned all my friends and family onto scotty’s channel. It’s no doubt the place to go when you have any questions
I’ve been researching way too much and even tired AMSOIL (I’m sure it’s a quality oil) only to go back to Mobil 1 or Valvoline with the same good results.
in my opinion AMSOIL is not worth the money and Change Intervals with the correct Grade is far more important.
Thank You Scotty for the education! Really appreciate it
The "W" on the oil stands for winter and not weight. Scotty knows it and just says it to get people's goat
Back in the mid 1980s there used to be a brand name oil commercial on TV where they used the term "weight" instead of winter to describe viscosity. That just might have been where it got it's start.
@@irongoose3865 - It goes back a long way before that - to an era when few mechanics & vehicle owners understood (or even heard) the word "viscosity." TV adverts use the language people already understand - otherwise there's no point in advertising.
@@irongoose3865 In the old days of Single Grade Oils were called W=Weight. Remember my father useing W30 in summer and W20 for winter back in Minnisota, we moved to Seattle and he used straight W30. The Multi Grade Oils came out in the 1950s.
scotty dropping the filter
Your right again Scotty, you got the ones that care and maintain their cars properly. You also have the ones that don't have it in mind and scratching their heads on why the cars have problems a couple of years down the road. Unless you bought a lemon in the first place. 😎👍
I've used the same oil pan drain plug w/ no washer or problems, for almost 20 years, on my `97 Outback. How many cars can fit in Scottys drive? 😲
With any car I buy I get a thick copper oil gasket and never have had to change one. The nylon looking ones I wouldn't trust though.
Same
Just had a head gasket done and the mechanic said he was amazed how clean the engine is @110,000 miles
CHANGE YOUR OIL FOLKS !!!!!!!
Italian tunes up also help 😉
Excellent advice, this is the Scotty we love!
An oldschool trick is to lubricate your new oil filter gasket before putting the oil filter on. Scotty covers this. It makes your next oil change significantly easier when removing the filter.
"Permanent anti-freeze" - the people who actually bought into that, ruin their cooling system from corrosion. "LIFETIME TRANSMISSION FLUID" - complete the sentence
It’s lifetime fluid alright, the lifetime of the transmission lol
You just don’t get it refers to your car, ir’s not about your lifetime. The so called lifetime of a car is 8 to 10:years.
@@animalmother5902 when something goes bad, just throw it out and buy new one just a couple of bucks.
I had a buddy that was the maintenance planner for a three unit coal-fired electrical generation plant. He showed me catalogs of lubricants that would last the lifetime of any motor vehicle since those would be light-duty applications and their rated lifespan for severe duty use varied from 30,000 to 50,000 hours. Those also were insanely expensive with one synthetic lube running $50,000 for a 30 gallon drum.
@@billwilson3609 $50k for a drum of oil’s pretty cheap compared to a $300M generator/turbine assembly.
That’s not always the case , you should always check the service manual to select the correct grade of oil for your climate. This applies to all engines .
-and conditions!
About the only thing I buy from Walmart is motor oil and filters on sale.
Wal-Mart there only place I'll wear a masque...not because of chic flu but so that nobody I know will see me at a Wal-Mart.
@@ianmackenzie686 😂Its the only place one could go when cross-dressing and not stand out from the rest of the patrons 😂😂
@@kannermw
Indeed!
I've watched videos on testing oil filters and I was amazed how bad some oil filters are. Some of the popular filters that you think would be a decent filter such as Fram are total junk.
Interestingly enough, the Motorcraft filter FL-820S recommended for my old Explorer is one of the cheapest out there ($4 at Walmart). Usually Motorcraft-branded anything is expensive.
No one can compete with this man, he's a true professional and legend
I've ran cars on thicker oil. The worst thing that happened was I got slightly worse gas mileage. Thicker oil does protect metal parts better.
My motorcycle also lists two oils I can use. Either 10w-30 or 10w-40. It says to use 10w-40 for warm weather and 10w-30 for colder weather. This was from the service manual, btw. This certainly depends on the car. New cars are just running on thinner oil since it reduces friction and improves gas mileage. My 2015 civic runs on 5w-20, while many of my old Hondas ran on 5w-30. You can also get away with using 10w-30 of you live in warmer climate like California.
Listening to Scotty talk about the oil, reminds me of my😳 high school coach talking about the football plays🤣👍
I work at valvoline instant oil change and I use spring cups ALL the time but one little trick with them sometimes you can’t reach the filter to fit the cup on it so you can actually turn the ratchet to tighten and u press it on the filter and start trying to tighten it and it will loosen the springcup and put the ratchet back on loosen and you’ll be able to loosen it without touching the filter or spring cup at all
Regardless of the engine, I always prime the filter with oil.
BAD idea. Too many opportunities to introduce (microscopic) contaminates into the outflow of the filter, and therefore INTO the engine, completely bypassing the functionality of the filter.
If it's pointed upright you are right ✅
@@bobberndt9744 Microscopic contaminates? Like what? From where? Pour the oil into the filter, put it on, no time for contaminates. If that were the case, those contaminates will flow right into the engine when you pour the oil in.
The reason for filling the filter is that oil will go into the engine right away instead of waiting for the pump to fill the filter.
I never fill a vehicle with engine oil based on watch recommended and just walk away and take it for a test drive I always check the dipstick! That's even if the dipstick is going to be accurate! Assuming it should be because of some manufacturer! I will feel the engine checking the dipstick make sure that it is at the full Mark sometimes and only because of my experience all those past the full Mark then start and run the engine rather it be gas or diesel, and let it run for about a minute not that it really needs that long for the oil to start circulating, but are usually do this because I might have to log something into a computer or whatever but I give at least a minute then I shut the engine off and give another minute or so for everything to settle down and I check the dipstick again, and surprisingly regardless of the manufacturer's recommendations or suggested amounts of oil it will vary I found myself adding up to a couple quarts! Or actually having to drain a few! I don't really have to drain any more oil but this was in my earlier days!
A little over or underfilling doesnt matter much.
As long the oilpump doesnt run dry or the crankshaft is flooded.
Morning from South Africa 🇿🇦
morning!
Morning from Viet Nam
If you can't get the oil filter off by hand and don't have a filter wrench, you can use your belt. Helped me when I couldn't find mine while moving into a new house.
That is a very great oil filter tool I have one and it doesn't fail😉
I change my oil every 3000 to 5000 never done me wrong, keep up the great vids scotty
Scotty's the man!
He is the Sage of mechanical engineering maintenance.
Exception on using different oil from what owners manual states to use, TSB. You may have an older vehicle that calls for 5W30 oil, however there is a Technical Service Bulletin that says to use 5W20 oil.
Ford, GM, and others do this. You can easily find out on Google if your vehicle has a TSB for the motor oil.
Hey Scotty ,you forgot too mention also that full synthetic oils will make your engine run a little cooler temps as well.😎👍love all the great videos.
Hello Scotty, You have just gained a fan from the other end of the continent - Malaysia. Have learned a lot from you
your definitely not full of crap Scotty I have learned quite alot from you and have saved alot of money as well being able to do my own repairs so thank you for being a great teacher dude. 😊
I agree with u....
Mushroomhead!!
Howdy Mr Kilmer....Big Fan Here..I almost blew my jeep engine too..I had to fish for my new gasket that the back yard mechanic just threw away...I was going for a 1800 miles to Oregon and back...
Who else ENJOYS changing oil? I enjoy changing all fluids.
I LOVE routine maintenance.............for real. 😐
nothing like a few cold ones when your working on your rig.
@@robertkwiatkoski1292 Yup, friends stop over, it's a good time. A lot of money is saved, and it's done right!
I also enjoy releasing fluids
I have a ’11 Corolla with 94k miles and I change the oil with 0W-20 every 5k miles (vs the 10k stated). I used to change it 2x/year as I used to drive 100 miles day round trip for work. Now that I don’t do that anymore, I barely drive 5k/year. Currently I have 3,300 miles since my last change about 14 months ago. I typically lose ½ qt oil in between changes, and I think that’s been happening since I bought the car new (owner’s manual states for my engine with filter the change should be 4.4 qts., and to me it looks full after only 4.0 qts., so I stop filling at 4.0 qts.).
My dad has a ’10 Corolla 78k miles and same driving scenario; it uses 5W-20 it gets changes ~4.5k miles and it calls for 5k mile intervals (dealer told me that both engines are the same). Manual also states with filter it should use 4.4 qts, but only 4.0 qts go in as it too looks full at that point. It too uses ½ qt in between changes.
I have heard people say that time is also a consideration with changes and would like to know the facts on time alone with regards to the oil and potential causes done to the engine.
I think if you gotta use a breaker bar to undue the drain plug, I think it’s a little tight!
Don’t use a breaker bar when reinstalling the drain plug. A 3/8 drive ratchet is plenty.
Likey used a breaker bar 'cause it was handy! One can loosen a bolt a tad easier with a longer fulcrum.
I use 5w30 mobile 1 extended performance Dexos for my 06 Grand Prix along with a Wix XP filter
Can we please apreciate the fact that Scotty waits for winter just to finish filming his video with snow footage? 🙏💪
True
In the rare instance that there is no gusting wind you should use a tremendous shop fan this way it blows your oil everywhere once you pull that drain plug out. You got to stay consistent
Just remember “oil is cheap, engines aren’t” - Scotty Kilmer
Words to the wise
For now!
@@larryjensen1388 Engine price can also go up.
It's worse than that. The end of the engine is often the end of the vehicle. It means, buying another vehicle, not buying an installing an engines.
Scotty you will work circles around a lot of the youngsters that I know
I just changed my oil an hour ago Scotty. 244,000 miles on my Jeep Commander and it still runs strong.
Edit: you said in a previous video that you didn't necessarily need to change the drain plug gasket. I haven't ever changed it. In this video you say to change it every time.
Of course, don't use defective new gasket washers from sleazy sources. They're out there.
one thing I have found and recommend is that you use the same brand of oil, do not mix brands due to the different formulas and detergents they use I have found well maintained engines that used all brands get a foam buildup and some time sludging but on my cars using the same brand and 200k miles the engine is clean. and I use Jiffy lube to do my oil changes ( I do watch them to make sure they do it and I also make sure it is not overfilled ) but they use the same brand always and it saves you the trouble and time as well as disposing the old oil
SCOTTYS the BEST, I enjoy watching him do his stuff.✌️
in Texas very hot only run 10w40 in my 06 2.5L Nissan Altima at 130k now still runs like a new car and dose not leak a drop ...also nothing but conventional oil every 5k miles and new air filter every 10k miles with oil change
Great video Scotty
Been using that filter removal tool for years. Awesome tool.
Walmart stripped my wife’s drain plug and the damn thing is completely stuck. It jumped the threads or something. Nobody can get it off. I had to order an entire drain pan and now I get to replace that next week. Don’t go to Walmart! Do it yourself.
Drill it out and rethread the hole..way cheaper . Why didn't someone tell
Re-tap the hole. No need to replace or even remove the pan. Oh, and always change your own oil when possible. I don’t trust anyone
@@powerfactor-e5355 we used to live in an apt and I couldn’t change it myself. Now that we bought a house I do it all myself.
Those quick lube places are notorious for screwing up those plugs
Agree with pretty much everything you say Scotty but as most engine specs come with a range of oil weights I tend to go up a weight once the motor goes over 100k
Thanks, me too. Interestingly,my 2007 CANYON 4/Cyl : specs for 5 W-30; @100,000**I upped to 10W-30 (( full SYN MOB1) in 2014:::::::: moved to HELENA MT, & the -30F,, was a little THICK , so,have gone back to 5 W-30 SYNTHETIC ( * Actually, my Tire Shop Point S, uses VALVOLINE / Filters, as I decided to let my Mechanics, tired of messing, &/reasonable $$.
TOTALLY AGREE! Scotty likely can't stray from factory specs., cause attorneys come a knocking!
good ol' Houston Scotty. I been here since right before he moved to Tennessee. Also my Dodge may be going to Rhode Island in a few years.
An essential video for better understanding how to make your car's engine to last longer and run efficiently!
Pay attention and you will save money in car lasting longer and on repairs.
Scotty, I respect your knowledge and passion to share your experience with others. Keep it up, even if it does offend others.
That was PHD dissertation on engine OILS. Thank you Prof. Scotty!
You always keep the mechanics up to date and well informed and it means alot to all of us.
BIGASS Fan's are a must in
TEXAS !
😆 Always make my day Mr Scotty 👍👍
Literally the name of the fan brand
Use breaker bar to remove plug, short ratchet to put it back on.
As long as the previous owner didn’t replace the oil fill cap from a different model…..
Scotty, if you just hold the oil can sideways while pour, you can do it much faster and with spilling too. Try it.
Scoot You are the man 👨
Those oil filter sockets are great. Been using them for well over 20 years now.