VIDEO INDEX 00:00 Intro 00:56 Contents 01:19 Weight 01:41 Magnets & Jitter 02:15 Patreon 02:26 CNC & Plastic parts 03:00 End stops 03:23 Travel adjustment 04:14 Throttle ratcheting 04:48 Throttle friction 05:21 Self-centering (changing mode) 05:55 Spring tension 06:41 Sticks & Spacers 👍 PLEASE SUPPORT the MuteFPV channel: ------- 👍 Join my PATREON: mutefpv.com/patreon 👍 Tip my 'piggy bank' via PAYPAL: mutefpv.com/paypal 👍 Save and use these BOOKMARKS before purchasing new goodies (please bookmark the SHORTLINKS in your browser): BANGGOOD: mutefpv.com/banggood AMAZON (ad): mutefpv.com/amazon GETFPV: mutefpv.com/getfpv EBAY: mutefpv.com/ebay ALIEXPRESS: mutefpv.com/aliexpress REELSTEADY: mutefpv.com/reelsteady More info in the video description, as always! THANK YOU
There are so many excellent things in this video. One thing I will add in this video the tension screws (inside) show they can be screwed down almost all the way for throttle tension. My gimbals had black screws, I tried to screw them down and they sheared right off. RM, is sending me a replacement but no one wants to be stuck with an open and unusable radio for 2 weeks so tighten with care!
Thank you very much! Hmmm interesting... To be honest I would prefer the screw to shear and not the threads in the aluminum? Are they sending a complete gimbal?
@@muteFPV The screw sheared not the threads but I lack the extraction tools to try and get the broken screw out. They are sending a new gimbal so +1 for RM on this.
Definitely +1, this is the customer service we need in this hobby :) You could swap the gimbals between each other until the replacement arrives, right?
@@muteFPV yeah, i couldn't wait... I put the old gimbal back on the throttle side in the meantime. Always dicey how many times you can screw into the plastic gimbal mounts until they strip... but I'm good now. Hopefully it holds.
Sorry I meant to swap the AG01 from one side to the other. Anyway, you got it working and this is what matters :) I agree about the plastic threads of the shell. I prefer having screws that go through the front of the shell and screw onto the gimbal frame.
I have not used it so I have no idea. What I know is that Bob (Kabab) has high standards and wouldn't put out something that is not noteworthy. Check out my duct design tests, I think you will find them interesting. Ducts are not an easy thing to design and not all props are a good match to a specific duct design.
They are already applied on the gimbals right out of the box, you do not need to use them when buying the AG01 gimbals and there is not much to say about them.
Hi can the stick be replaced? I'm thinking about installing Frsky 3+Axis Gimbal Extender onto TX16S. Wondering if the stick on AG01 or the standard gimbal can be unscrewed just like that.
@@muteFPV Yes, like one popular among heli flyers, but was originally used by fixed wing people to control rudder in the 1970s. In Rcgroups forum, i've seen people installing it on both gimbals (left+right) to control excavator and other construction machine RC. For me personally the reason i want to have it is for lazy flying fixed wing mid/long range, don't need to mess with the throttle much, so i can free one hand for smoking/vaping/phone/coffee. I also think it might be more intuitive for flying cinematic quad.
Not sure if it would be useful for flying multirotor and sounds like too much hassle for your use case, but this hobby is 90% tinkering and 10% flying so why not :D As long as the gimbal shaft is hollow from end to end and there is enough room to wire everything up, I suppose you are good to go. But I would recommend to follow someone else's instructions if they have done it already - I have absolutely zero experience with all this!
@@muteFPV just one question: does it seem to you, from your experience working with the gimbals, that the stock stick (shiny steel part) on the gimbal can be detached from the black part?
Hello! I think you mean the ones in this video: ua-cam.com/video/eMIpAhe4GA4/v-deo.html They are the M4-sized sticks by Hawk Creation (I love their accessories) You can find timestamps and links in the description of that video
Hello! If you mean the one for the smooth throttle mod, it is a common tube for 3D printer filament. You can find more details in this video: ua-cam.com/video/7WBN7RsQm84/v-deo.html
Is there any info on how often the gimbals send their data? With 500hz becoming the new frontier in link speed a 500hz gimbal would obviously be nice. Nice video!
@@derrogers Diamond interfaced nano particulates infused with carbon nanotubes yielding high interlace spectrum which i created im getting 20,000hz I can basically instantly steer something on the other side of USA with my link. I can't legally can not sell the patents though for hobby use cause of the shit people would use it for. All this FpV stuff is small time in comparison to what i have seen/made.
@@pushies5 What you should of said is what kind of hopium you smoking bro lol. I like to mind fck people and make them think. Im sure carbon nanotubes and diamon infused nano particulate matter have nothing to do with relation to HZ of frequency but it sounded cool right. haha
Take racing as an example. Pitch axis receives little input and Throttle axis goes from low to very high constantly when flying aggressively. Limiting the throw of the vertical axis for, let's say throttle in this example, means that you can give throttle input faster, with shorter movements of the fingers. For roll and yaw "on the other hand" you need finer input / more resolution.
You’ve created a great series of tx16 mod videos Mute 👍👍. I’ve been eyeing up the AG01s. I wondering why the sticks hit the case when used with the CNC spacers or LEDs? They don’t hit with the stock plastic gimbals when right? Do the AG01s have more travel/throw? What gives? I’d like to use the cnc “ring” to break up the colors..
Hello, thank you very much! The stock gimbals hit the shell too when using the spacers, on all corners except from the outer top corners. It depends on the sticks too, I guess. I am using 10mm sticks so very slim ones could be better.
QQ: the throttle stick, I've an issue when the throttle is put in the up position or 3/4 way up and I remove my fingers it will slowly go to the down position. Are you experiencing this with yours? I already tried adjusting the friction blade (screwed down all the way) and also removed some of the lube but still see the issue.
I haven't had this problem. Here are a few things I would try. Does it happen with the radio open? If yes, do you see any wires catching on the gimbal, pulling it down? Unscrew the friction blade all the way and see if it does the same thing, screwing the friction blade all the way in may create an uneven bend. The friction blade should have an even bend that matches the curved plastic of the gimbal, do you see anything wrong with it visually? Also make sure that the screw that converts the gimbal from spring return to throttle (no spring return) is fully screwed (although you say it goes to the down position, this won't be it).
@@muteFPV It happens whether open or closed up. I made sure to have the wires away from anything that would catch. I have unscrewed the friction plate screw to release tension and this time it doesn't need any type of effort to have it drop down. I also tried changing the other side to mode2 (making it a throttle) by unscrewing (loosening) the friction screw and it drops like the throttle side. I do not see any out of place bends on the blade. I've even tried cleaning all of the silicone lube from both the blade and the white plastic piece. It still goes down with gravity.
My bad, I meant unscrew the friction blade to reduce the friction, not remove contact completely. Makes sense to fall on its own with no friction from the bar, the gimbal stick will act as a lever. But it shouldn't drop on its own when the friction bar touches the curved plastic piece. I will check mine tomorrow again.
VIDEO INDEX
00:00 Intro
00:56 Contents
01:19 Weight
01:41 Magnets & Jitter
02:15 Patreon
02:26 CNC & Plastic parts
03:00 End stops
03:23 Travel adjustment
04:14 Throttle ratcheting
04:48 Throttle friction
05:21 Self-centering (changing mode)
05:55 Spring tension
06:41 Sticks & Spacers
👍 PLEASE SUPPORT the MuteFPV channel:
-------
👍 Join my PATREON: mutefpv.com/patreon
👍 Tip my 'piggy bank' via PAYPAL: mutefpv.com/paypal
👍 Save and use these BOOKMARKS before purchasing new goodies (please bookmark the SHORTLINKS in your browser):
BANGGOOD: mutefpv.com/banggood
AMAZON (ad): mutefpv.com/amazon
GETFPV: mutefpv.com/getfpv
EBAY: mutefpv.com/ebay
ALIEXPRESS: mutefpv.com/aliexpress
REELSTEADY: mutefpv.com/reelsteady
More info in the video description, as always!
THANK YOU
thank you made my controller 100000000% better
04:37. Thank you. This has been driving me bonkers.
I am glad you found it helpful!
There are so many excellent things in this video. One thing I will add in this video the tension screws (inside) show they can be screwed down almost all the way for throttle tension. My gimbals had black screws, I tried to screw them down and they sheared right off. RM, is sending me a replacement but no one wants to be stuck with an open and unusable radio for 2 weeks so tighten with care!
Thank you very much! Hmmm interesting... To be honest I would prefer the screw to shear and not the threads in the aluminum? Are they sending a complete gimbal?
@@muteFPV The screw sheared not the threads but I lack the extraction tools to try and get the broken screw out. They are sending a new gimbal so +1 for RM on this.
Definitely +1, this is the customer service we need in this hobby :) You could swap the gimbals between each other until the replacement arrives, right?
@@muteFPV yeah, i couldn't wait... I put the old gimbal back on the throttle side in the meantime. Always dicey how many times you can screw into the plastic gimbal mounts until they strip... but I'm good now. Hopefully it holds.
Sorry I meant to swap the AG01 from one side to the other. Anyway, you got it working and this is what matters :) I agree about the plastic threads of the shell. I prefer having screws that go through the front of the shell and screw onto the gimbal frame.
Awesome review, mate! 😃
Thanks for showing all the regulations!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
You too mate, thank you!
This may not be relevant but I would love to hear your thoughts on the cinesplore? Also what bladed props should I run?
I have not used it so I have no idea. What I know is that Bob (Kabab) has high standards and wouldn't put out something that is not noteworthy. Check out my duct design tests, I think you will find them interesting. Ducts are not an easy thing to design and not all props are a good match to a specific duct design.
what about applying the two types of lub that came with ago1
Hello! I have never used them
@@muteFPV ok then state that in review but do not just ignore items in the box.
They are already applied on the gimbals right out of the box, you do not need to use them when buying the AG01 gimbals and there is not much to say about them.
@muteFPV one is a grease and one is an oil.
Hi can the stick be replaced? I'm thinking about installing Frsky 3+Axis Gimbal Extender onto TX16S. Wondering if the stick on AG01 or the standard gimbal can be unscrewed just like that.
I am not familiar with the extender you describe. Can you send me a link to check? Is it one of those rotating knobs used for helis?
@@muteFPV Yes, like one popular among heli flyers, but was originally used by fixed wing people to control rudder in the 1970s.
In Rcgroups forum, i've seen people installing it on both gimbals (left+right) to control excavator and other construction machine RC.
For me personally the reason i want to have it is for lazy flying fixed wing mid/long range, don't need to mess with the throttle much, so i can free one hand for smoking/vaping/phone/coffee.
I also think it might be more intuitive for flying cinematic quad.
Not sure if it would be useful for flying multirotor and sounds like too much hassle for your use case, but this hobby is 90% tinkering and 10% flying so why not :D As long as the gimbal shaft is hollow from end to end and there is enough room to wire everything up, I suppose you are good to go. But I would recommend to follow someone else's instructions if they have done it already - I have absolutely zero experience with all this!
@@muteFPV just one question: does it seem to you, from your experience working with the gimbals, that the stock stick (shiny steel part) on the gimbal can be detached from the black part?
It must be possible (because it was assembled somehow), but I have never attempted it...
Please give a link to a source for the gimbal stick ends on your TX16S before you fitted the AG01 gimbals
Hello! I think you mean the ones in this video: ua-cam.com/video/eMIpAhe4GA4/v-deo.html
They are the M4-sized sticks by Hawk Creation (I love their accessories)
You can find timestamps and links in the description of that video
teflon tube size ? Thank you
Hello! If you mean the one for the smooth throttle mod, it is a common tube for 3D printer filament. You can find more details in this video: ua-cam.com/video/7WBN7RsQm84/v-deo.html
Is there any info on how often the gimbals send their data? With 500hz becoming the new frontier in link speed a 500hz gimbal would obviously be nice. Nice video!
Thank you! I don't know anything related to this but will get back to you if I find out :)
more likely the MCU reads data from the sensors...
@@derrogers Diamond interfaced nano particulates infused with carbon nanotubes yielding high interlace spectrum which i created im getting 20,000hz I can basically instantly steer something on the other side of USA with my link. I can't legally can not sell the patents though for hobby use cause of the shit people would use it for. All this FpV stuff is small time in comparison to what i have seen/made.
@@Matt-xy6cf that is almost like direct wire control latency. In which industry is this technology usually utilized?
@@pushies5 What you should of said is what kind of hopium you smoking bro lol. I like to mind fck people and make them think. Im sure carbon nanotubes and diamon infused nano particulate matter have nothing to do with relation to HZ of frequency but it sounded cool right. haha
Great great content! Thanks for sharing!
I am happy you enjoyed it!
So the vertical axis can be limited but not the horizontal? Why lol
Take racing as an example. Pitch axis receives little input and Throttle axis goes from low to very high constantly when flying aggressively. Limiting the throw of the vertical axis for, let's say throttle in this example, means that you can give throttle input faster, with shorter movements of the fingers. For roll and yaw "on the other hand" you need finer input / more resolution.
@@muteFPV great explanation, thank you sir
You’ve created a great series of tx16 mod videos Mute 👍👍. I’ve been eyeing up the AG01s. I wondering why the sticks hit the case when used with the CNC spacers or LEDs? They don’t hit with the stock plastic gimbals when right? Do the AG01s have more travel/throw? What gives? I’d like to use the cnc “ring” to break up the colors..
Hello, thank you very much! The stock gimbals hit the shell too when using the spacers, on all corners except from the outer top corners. It depends on the sticks too, I guess. I am using 10mm sticks so very slim ones could be better.
Hey how can I contact you for product review email ?
Hello! You can contact me via email: mutefpv (at) gmail (dot) com
QQ: the throttle stick, I've an issue when the throttle is put in the up position or 3/4 way up and I remove my fingers it will slowly go to the down position. Are you experiencing this with yours?
I already tried adjusting the friction blade (screwed down all the way) and also removed some of the lube but still see the issue.
I haven't had this problem. Here are a few things I would try. Does it happen with the radio open? If yes, do you see any wires catching on the gimbal, pulling it down? Unscrew the friction blade all the way and see if it does the same thing, screwing the friction blade all the way in may create an uneven bend. The friction blade should have an even bend that matches the curved plastic of the gimbal, do you see anything wrong with it visually? Also make sure that the screw that converts the gimbal from spring return to throttle (no spring return) is fully screwed (although you say it goes to the down position, this won't be it).
@@muteFPV It happens whether open or closed up. I made sure to have the wires away from anything that would catch. I have unscrewed the friction plate screw to release tension and this time it doesn't need any type of effort to have it drop down. I also tried changing the other side to mode2 (making it a throttle) by unscrewing (loosening) the friction screw and it drops like the throttle side. I do not see any out of place bends on the blade. I've even tried cleaning all of the silicone lube from both the blade and the white plastic piece. It still goes down with gravity.
My bad, I meant unscrew the friction blade to reduce the friction, not remove contact completely. Makes sense to fall on its own with no friction from the bar, the gimbal stick will act as a lever. But it shouldn't drop on its own when the friction bar touches the curved plastic piece. I will check mine tomorrow again.
Should I still avoid cranking down the screw to give it more tension? If I do not it will go down on its own.
I have never needed so much force from the friction bar so I have no idea. You had said it still drops even if you give more tension, right?
Box is primo, not sure why the came with sticks in the sand. I am joking of course
😂
I see you typed in annoying music and picked the first one
Less annoying than your comment at least 😂