Thank you for the excellent directions, which were also appropriate for my Model 5414 shaver. Instead of soldering a new battery to the circuit board, which requires a special shaver battery with the longer, "pointy" tab, I carefully broke off the tabs from the old battery with a pen knife, and soldered in a Sanyo1650 mAh NiMh battery with the standard tabs directly to the old tabs. Much easier and less risky to do. Am now getting 60+ minutes of cordless shaves from the new battery!
Thank you very much. I disassembled my razor years ago and bought replacement cells. I finally got up the ambition to do the soldering bit today. I unsoldered the cells from the board (a bit nerve wracking) and soldered the new ones in. I had forgotten exactly how to reassemble everything so this video helped immensely. One thing for all to be aware of, is that when you rescrew the head pivots in, to make sure the screen release mechanism on the head matches the button on the head pivots. I put mine on backwards, and had undo and reseat those miserable little phillips head screws one time more than I liked doing.
Thank you for posting this! I really like my electric shaver but it's short runtime due to bad batteries made it almost useless. Probably would have just bought a new one, but learned they don't make this style any more. Then came across your well-made video on how to get to the batteries. Can't imagine I'd have been successful doing this without your guide!
If the LED doesn't come on when plugged in, then the fuse is blown. This is easy to replace as well, if you are good at soldering. It's an AC 280mA fuse, though anything from 250-350 mA be okay to replace it. The fuse is the rectangular block near the AC jack. You can replace with any form factor that fits inside (using wires, appropriately insulated).
For me, it was like a brand new shaver - for about five charges. After that, it started losing power and is basically back to the old batteries' state at this point. Still, it was a fun little project, and the shaver's still good enough for me to resist buying a new one. Thanks again for sharing this.
Many Thanks !! I have a Braun 5414 that I was loathe to discard because it's battery wouldn't take a charge . Thanks to your vid I was able to easily take it apart , determine the proper battery and order it on eBay for under ten bucks. A very useful video indeed !!!
Thanks for putting the video together. When I attempted to detach the original connecting tab from the batteries, it wasn't so easy. I think the tabs were spot-welded not soldered. With a small screwdriver, I was able to break the connecting tabs and solder the remain portion onto the replacement battery. I'm still working on getting the tiny screws that act as pivot points for the shaver head. These screws are pretty fussy to reinsert as there are flat springs that need to be pressed into place while threading the screws...
They are standard 1.2V NiMH AA batteries. With 2 of them, they provide 2.4V. When taking them out, pay attention to the polarity. Here's how I solder regular batteries: First, sand or file the battery contacts (the ends) to remove oxidation (important!), then quickly solder a little blob of solder on each battery contact as well as on each terminal (while they are apart). Then insert the batteries and heat the solder blobs just enough to melt together.
Great video! Very informative! I purchased a used one and it works great but does not hold a charge for long. I will use y our information to replace the batteries so I can continue to use the razor. Thanks again!
Excellent info. Repaired two shavers, Braun 6512 and 5505 which are quite similar to this one. 5505 has two small plastic covers on each side of the mains inlet instead of what i shown here. You genltly have to just pry them out
Very simplistic interpretation of the process. You can't just "solder" onto batteries. New leads that can be "soldered " onto the circuit board need to be "spot welded" onto the battery.
(continuing from previous post) I recommend holding it by the body as much as possible as the black plastic cover is only held on by a couple of fragile plastic clips. You can actually easily pop those out by inserting a small screwdriver bit into the clip holes and pressing on the clips inside the shaver body.
Very helpful. My model is the Braun 7680 but I believe the same screw removal method will work. My question is about the battery/circuitboard combination. If I go to all the trouble of dissassembling the unit, might I be better off replacing this whole subsystem? Or, if the razor is still opperating properly is there a 95% probability that it IS only the batteries that need replacing? Thanks!
Just replaced my batteries following the steps in this video. Here are some more tips: The screwdriver bits I needed were: "PH000" (for 2 screws on rotating shaver head), "PH1" (for 2 screws on bottom of shaver, under plastic plugs), and "T-8" (for Torx screws at top of shaver, under rotating head assembly). At the end of the video, Kevin is holding the shaver up by the black plastic cover. I recommend holding it by the body as much as possible (continued next post).
Some comments: the black cover comes off completely with a bit of prying. Then the circuit board with the batteries attached pops right out. It's very important not to extend the switch/trimmer while the shaver is apart, since putting it back can be tedious (hint: once all the pieces are in place, you must push the switch towards off while you reinsert the trimmer). Finally, you cannot use Braun shavers for long on AC after the batteries have died, since this will eventually blow the fuse.
(continuing from previous post) Lastly, resist the temptation to play around with, or remove, the shaver switch once you've removed the shaver innards from the silver body. If you inadvertently cause the shaver switch to come off, you'll have a tough time reattaching it, as there are loose springs under it.
And lastly, thanks Kevin for this video! I would have tossed my shaver "into the landfill" if it weren't for finding your video. I bought just the batteries and it cost me about $28 shipped from electricshaverstore.
Thanks for this helpful video. I got to the very end putting the head back on with those small nasty PH#000 screws BUT unfortunately backwards. So now my foil will not pop off and the head is stuck in the first position. Any suggestions on how I can get the foil off without destroying to reassemble again.
@tekdemon: For the battery nearer the bottom of the shaver (where the power cord plugs in), the positive terminal should face the bottom. For the other battery, the negative terminal should face the bottom. I can send a pic if you need. Just finished reassembling mine, it's charging as we speak. I used Energizer 2450 mAh rechargeable NiMH batteries (1.2v each). Here's hoping nothing explodes.
Thanks for the information, i was just wondering if i could disable the battery forever, just use it on the power cord? Like removing the battery and just connect a wire between the + and - or would that make it explode or something? I have no use for cordless shaving and since the battery is in bad shape i can't use the thing when i want, i must wait until it the battery have some power.
yes, it should light up when you're charging. i'm not sure what "batteries with tabs" are, sounds a little sketchy. if not those, then the soldering still needs some work. i know next to nothing about this stuff, but i think a multimeter would be a quick way to identify the bad joint(s) if it's not visually obvious.
Did this for the 6550. Unfortunately it doesnt work. Also the clear plastic gear and a bronze spring that control the tension on the sideburn cutter also fell out in the process. Any assistance on how they would go back in, would be greatly appreciated. .
I saw the board you mention..Follow my instructions and instead of replacing the batteries..Replace the board with batteries as whole unit. It lifts right up and you can swap the new one in no problems.
@kozinao - You're right of course. But the procedure isn't that different. NiCd need discharging first before charging up for a set period of time. But most chargers don't do this. They merely expect you to be the timing mechanism. Ni-Mh need heat monitored and when they heat up, the charger should switch itself off. But in reality few do. I've yet to see a cordless phone using Ni-Mh AAA cells that has a heat sensor.
Hmm I soldered it like that...thought my joints were bad but I just redid the points with a much nicer soldering iron and it still doesn't light up when plugged in. Maybe I'm supposed to charge it for a while before it lights up? I used some cheapo ebay batteries with tabs, hope it's not defective.
I was just wondering if you could tell me. I bought a Braun shaver series 7 a month ago. I think it is the Braun 795. If the battery does die, is it possible to run it off mains?
Braun's Charger simply charges for a set period of time. If you put in much higher capacity Ni-Mh then I've found the batteries don't get any where near fully charged. NiCd cells used in a Braun are hard to find in AA style Ni-Mh with similar capacity. I've found I have to use 700mAH Ni-Mh AAA (and put them into a AAA to AA adaptor case) and not the 2500mAH ones I have to hand.
Thanks so much for posting this, exactly what I needed! Like you, I see no reason to toss out a perfectly good shaver when the only problem is the batteries. What type/model 2.4v batteries did you use as a replacement?
Help please. I went too far disassembling my Braun 6520, the three position switch /head position selector exploded. Can you sketch, or picture how the springs and plastic part are placed back together under the slide? I would greatly appreciate the help.
@profquatermass Well if it was NiCd batteries before, you shouldnt use NiMH batteries as a replacement because the charging current and procedure is different
hey all, The best ideas that I have noticed was on Volt daddy (i found it on google) I bet its the most helpful info on batteries and this kinda thing that I have found.
I finally got down to the part where I'm trying to take the battery's out. Big fail on that so far. The choice is either un-solder or pry it out with an edge. 2 Batteries. 4 connections. I'm going with the pry/cut option. Any suggestions?
You can run off mains for a while, but eventually the dead batteries will require so much current to charge that you'll blow the fuse inside. This is fixable, though.
Question, I just replaced the batteries thanks for the video, the shaver works but when I plug it in it won't charge , help Please thanks? so green light won't come on, thanks
I am too stupid to break the socket seal WHOLE part and the whole switch SPRING part come out tha I don't know how to reassembly it . Would would please pos another video which can teach me how to reassembly the switch parts and put all the things back and where can I get the new socket seal part?? Many Many Thanks
Hi, very informative indeed. Thank you. How do you take the shaver head off a 7680 series? Everything works except for head which have stopped vibrating. Something is stuck there. I've removed the two screws but cant seem to take the head off. Help. Thanks
on the longer of the two pieces of circuit board. positive is near the edge (bottom if the shaver is standing) of the circuit board. On the shorter, it is reverse, and negative is at the edge (bottom) of the board.
You should clarify that this shaver uses two 1.2 volt AA MiMh cells; for a total of 2.4 volts capacity. Ni-Cd cells should not be used; they have been banned in Europe for toxicity concerns.
There's no reason to take the top off to get to the batteries, you can disassemble and replace the batteries just by removing the two screws at the bottom then sliding the pieces off one by one. I'm having some trouble getting my soldering to work right now (using the craptastic cold heat unit), hopefully I can get it going again soon. Anybody know which way the batteries are supposed to go? I removed the old ones a long time ago and chucked them.
I think it's funny you don't show how to put the freaking thing back together... that's because it's a bitch! I'm not wasting any more time trying to fix this piece of crap. Buying a new one like I should have to begin with. Wasted a whole Saturday morning on this shit.
Thanks for the video. Maybe you could have used Sony's new line of rechargeable batts which they clam is better than the previous models. However they are AA 1.5V 2000mah. Not sure if the charger will work fine with it. What do you think?
Thank you for the excellent directions, which were also appropriate for my Model 5414 shaver. Instead of soldering a new battery to the circuit board, which requires a special shaver battery with the longer, "pointy" tab, I carefully broke off the tabs from the old battery with a pen knife, and soldered in a Sanyo1650 mAh NiMh battery with the standard tabs directly to the old tabs. Much easier and less risky to do. Am now getting 60+ minutes of cordless shaves from the new battery!
I wonder if I should try that with my model 5520
Thinks I’ll use that process for my 6550. Thanks for the hint!
Thank you very much. I disassembled my razor years ago and bought replacement cells. I finally got up the ambition to do the soldering bit today. I unsoldered the cells from the board (a bit nerve wracking) and soldered the new ones in. I had forgotten exactly how to reassemble everything so this video helped immensely. One thing for all to be aware of, is that when you rescrew the head pivots in, to make sure the screen release mechanism on the head matches the button on the head pivots. I put mine on backwards, and had undo and reseat those miserable little phillips head screws one time more than I liked doing.
Thank you for posting this! I really like my electric shaver but it's short runtime due to bad batteries made it almost useless. Probably would have just bought a new one, but learned they don't make this style any more. Then came across your well-made video on how to get to the batteries. Can't imagine I'd have been successful doing this without your guide!
No problem glad you saved it. You know the saying they don't make them like this anymore.
If the LED doesn't come on when plugged in, then the fuse is blown. This is easy to replace as well, if you are good at soldering. It's an AC 280mA fuse, though anything from 250-350 mA be okay to replace it. The fuse is the rectangular block near the AC jack. You can replace with any form factor that fits inside (using wires, appropriately insulated).
For me, it was like a brand new shaver - for about five charges. After that, it started losing power and is basically back to the old batteries' state at this point. Still, it was a fun little project, and the shaver's still good enough for me to resist buying a new one. Thanks again for sharing this.
Great job! Started trying to figure it out myself then went to UA-cam and found your video. Bought batteries on Amazon.. ~ $9. Love Braun razors.
Glad I could help!
Many Thanks !! I have a Braun 5414 that I was loathe to discard because it's battery wouldn't take a charge . Thanks to your vid I was able to easily take it apart , determine the proper battery and order it on eBay for under ten bucks. A very useful video indeed !!!
Thanks for putting the video together. When I attempted to detach the original connecting tab from the batteries, it wasn't so easy. I think the tabs were spot-welded not soldered. With a small screwdriver, I was able to break the connecting tabs and solder the remain portion onto the replacement battery. I'm still working on getting the tiny screws that act as pivot points for the shaver head. These screws are pretty fussy to reinsert as there are flat springs that need to be pressed into place while threading the screws...
They are standard 1.2V NiMH AA batteries. With 2 of them, they provide 2.4V. When taking them out, pay attention to the polarity. Here's how I solder regular batteries: First, sand or file the battery contacts (the ends) to remove oxidation (important!), then quickly solder a little blob of solder on each battery contact as well as on each terminal (while they are apart). Then insert the batteries and heat the solder blobs just enough to melt together.
Great video! Very informative! I purchased a used one and it works great but does not hold a charge for long. I will use y our information to replace the batteries so I can continue to use the razor. Thanks again!
Excellent info. Repaired two shavers, Braun 6512 and 5505 which are quite similar to this one. 5505 has two small plastic covers on each side of the mains inlet instead of what i shown here. You genltly have to just pry them out
Very simplistic interpretation of the process. You can't just "solder" onto batteries. New leads that can be "soldered " onto the circuit board need to be "spot welded" onto the battery.
(continuing from previous post) I recommend holding it by the body as much as possible as the black plastic cover is only held on by a couple of fragile plastic clips. You can actually easily pop those out by inserting a small screwdriver bit into the clip holes and pressing on the clips inside the shaver body.
Very helpful. My model is the Braun 7680 but I believe the same screw removal method will work. My question is about the battery/circuitboard combination. If I go to all the trouble of dissassembling the unit, might I be better off replacing this whole subsystem? Or, if the razor is still opperating properly is there a 95% probability that it IS only the batteries that need replacing? Thanks!
Thank you for the instruction!
Just replaced my batteries following the steps in this video. Here are some more tips:
The screwdriver bits I needed were: "PH000" (for 2 screws on rotating shaver head), "PH1" (for 2 screws on bottom of shaver, under plastic plugs), and "T-8" (for Torx screws at top of shaver, under rotating head assembly).
At the end of the video, Kevin is holding the shaver up by the black plastic cover. I recommend holding it by the body as much as possible (continued next post).
Also, this video also works for various other Braun models. I had a 5505. The only difference in disassembly was how the bottom screws were covered.
Some comments: the black cover comes off completely with a bit of prying. Then the circuit board with the batteries attached pops right out. It's very important not to extend the switch/trimmer while the shaver is apart, since putting it back can be tedious (hint: once all the pieces are in place, you must push the switch towards off while you reinsert the trimmer). Finally, you cannot use Braun shavers for long on AC after the batteries have died, since this will eventually blow the fuse.
I have trouble getting the black cover to come off completely. Can you please show me how to do it?
(continuing from previous post)
Lastly, resist the temptation to play around with, or remove, the shaver switch once you've removed the shaver innards from the silver body. If you inadvertently cause the shaver switch to come off, you'll have a tough time reattaching it, as there are loose springs under it.
And lastly, thanks Kevin for this video! I would have tossed my shaver "into the landfill" if it weren't for finding your video. I bought just the batteries and it cost me about $28 shipped from electricshaverstore.
Thanks for this helpful video. I got to the very end putting the head back on with those small nasty PH#000 screws BUT unfortunately backwards. So now my foil will not pop off and the head is stuck in the first position. Any suggestions on how I can get the foil off without destroying to reassemble again.
Sorry I made this video 13 years ago and the shaver is long gone. I am hoping someone here in the comments can help you out ;)
I want to do the same with my Braun 3610! Really useful video and the comments from Carl also!
Thanks Carl for the updates.
@tekdemon: For the battery nearer the bottom of the shaver (where the power cord plugs in), the positive terminal should face the bottom. For the other battery, the negative terminal should face the bottom. I can send a pic if you need.
Just finished reassembling mine, it's charging as we speak. I used Energizer 2450 mAh rechargeable NiMH batteries (1.2v each). Here's hoping nothing explodes.
Thanks for the information, i was just wondering if i could disable the battery forever, just use it on the power cord? Like removing the battery and just connect a wire between the + and - or would that make it explode or something?
I have no use for cordless shaving and since the battery is in bad shape i can't use the thing when i want, i must wait until it the battery have some power.
Thank you for this, it's very informative but it's a problem that the images are of such poor quality !
Unfortunately when I made this video 13 years ago cameras sucked :(
Excellent! Thank you!
You are welcome!
yes, it should light up when you're charging. i'm not sure what "batteries with tabs" are, sounds a little sketchy. if not those, then the soldering still needs some work. i know next to nothing about this stuff, but i think a multimeter would be a quick way to identify the bad joint(s) if it's not visually obvious.
Did this for the 6550. Unfortunately it doesnt work. Also the clear plastic gear and a bronze spring that control the tension on the sideburn cutter also fell out in the process. Any assistance on how they would go back in, would be greatly appreciated. .
I saw the board you mention..Follow my instructions and instead of replacing the batteries..Replace the board with batteries as whole unit. It lifts right up and you can swap the new one in no problems.
@kozinao - You're right of course. But the procedure isn't that different. NiCd need discharging first before charging up for a set period of time. But most chargers don't do this. They merely expect you to be the timing mechanism.
Ni-Mh need heat monitored and when they heat up, the charger should switch itself off. But in reality few do.
I've yet to see a cordless phone using Ni-Mh AAA cells that has a heat sensor.
Thanks I'll give it a go. Appreciate your help prof..
Hmm I soldered it like that...thought my joints were bad but I just redid the points with a much nicer soldering iron and it still doesn't light up when plugged in. Maybe I'm supposed to charge it for a while before it lights up? I used some cheapo ebay batteries with tabs, hope it's not defective.
Just take out the plugs on the bottom and unscrew the two screws. The whole unit pulls out the top!
Lol thanks, was wondering the same.
I was just wondering if you could tell me. I bought a Braun shaver series 7 a month ago. I think it is the Braun 795. If the battery does die, is it possible to run it off mains?
Quick question. Can you point out where the fuse is, in this model? I am sure mine needs both fuse and batteries.
Braun's Charger simply charges for a set period of time. If you put in much higher capacity Ni-Mh then I've found the batteries don't get any where near fully charged. NiCd cells used in a Braun are hard to find in AA style Ni-Mh with similar capacity.
I've found I have to use 700mAH Ni-Mh AAA (and put them into a AAA to AA adaptor case) and not the 2500mAH ones I have to hand.
Thanks so much for posting this, exactly what I needed! Like you, I see no reason to toss out a perfectly good shaver when the only problem is the batteries. What type/model 2.4v batteries did you use as a replacement?
I bought mine on Amazon
Thanks, Kevin. Much appreciated.
Help please.
I went too far disassembling my Braun 6520, the three
position switch /head position selector exploded. Can you sketch, or picture how the springs and
plastic part are placed back together under the slide? I would greatly
appreciate the help.
Does it light up when charging? I can't remember anymore since it's been a long time since it's worked.
Hello
Could you confirm where is thé + and thé - of each battery (+ should be down and - at the upper part of thé rasor
Thank you
Great video! Thank you!
@profquatermass Well if it was NiCd batteries before, you shouldnt use NiMH batteries as a replacement because the charging current and procedure is different
hey all, The best ideas that I have noticed was on Volt daddy (i found it on google) I bet its the most helpful info on batteries and this kinda thing that I have found.
I finally got down to the part where I'm trying to take the battery's out. Big fail on that so far. The choice is either un-solder or pry it out with an edge. 2 Batteries. 4 connections. I'm going with the pry/cut option. Any suggestions?
Yeah, switch to a blade.
I need replacement foil and cutter for broun 5000 series. Please I need a # to order.
Could anyone confirm if there is a better shaving Braun model of shaver or is this 6520 the best shaving Braun shaver???
You can run off mains for a while, but eventually the dead batteries will require so much current to charge that you'll blow the fuse inside. This is fixable, though.
Question, I just replaced the batteries thanks for the video, the shaver works but when I plug it in it won't charge , help Please thanks? so green light won't come on, thanks
I am too stupid to break the socket seal WHOLE part and the whole switch SPRING part come out tha I don't know how to reassembly it . Would would please pos another video which can teach me how to reassembly the switch parts and put all the things back and where can I get the new socket seal part?? Many Many Thanks
Hi, very informative indeed. Thank you. How do you take the shaver head off a 7680 series? Everything works except for head which have stopped vibrating. Something is stuck there. I've removed the two screws but cant seem to take the head off. Help.
Thanks
Is 6550 about the same?
CANT TELL IF BOTH BATTERIES ARE FACING THE SAME DIRECTION OR OPPOSITE DIRECDTIONS??
Yes you can run off mains
How is the orientation of the batteries? I forgot it!
on the longer of the two pieces of circuit board. positive is near the edge (bottom if the shaver is standing) of the circuit board. On the shorter, it is reverse, and negative is at the edge (bottom) of the board.
Are you sure that the batteries are 2.4 volts?
How to Replace Batteries in Braun Shaver 5314. Pls, help me!!!!
You should clarify that this shaver uses two 1.2 volt AA MiMh cells; for a total of 2.4 volts capacity. Ni-Cd cells should not be used; they have been banned in Europe for toxicity concerns.
do you mean NiMh?
There's no reason to take the top off to get to the batteries, you can disassemble and replace the batteries just by removing the two screws at the bottom then sliding the pieces off one by one.
I'm having some trouble getting my soldering to work right now (using the craptastic cold heat unit), hopefully I can get it going again soon. Anybody know which way the batteries are supposed to go? I removed the old ones a long time ago and chucked them.
sure can type your model # in ebay and you will find the batteries!
No problem
Your model is different. I hawe 6550
I think it's funny you don't show how to put the freaking thing back together... that's because it's a bitch! I'm not wasting any more time trying to fix this piece of crap. Buying a new one like I should have to begin with. Wasted a whole Saturday morning on this shit.
Thanks for the video. Maybe you could have used Sony's new line of rechargeable batts which they clam is better than the previous models. However they are AA 1.5V 2000mah. Not sure if the charger will work fine with it. What do you think?