what a great vid. started a little long winded but really gets into the hands-on detail by the end. if this series continues i'll definitely be subscribing.
Maybe not show every hammer and slapper hit in fast motion. Seeing how lightly he makes the strike would be of paramount importance. Thank God for closed captioning. 😊
Really really handy video. I know there are heaps of scenarios. I have a Holden Ute with high and low spots right along the 'banana' body lines. Would you guys do some vids on dents on body lines, both in and out. This one you did was obviously easier as you could reach dolly under, any tips where you can't?
Great video guys. Curious about the dye, if sharpie can bleed through paint why not the dye? I've used a big fat sharpie on a door the same way, but now wondering if that was a bad idea.
Hi mate. Some permanent markers contain an acid, that help bind the pigment to a surface. If enough acid is left on the surface it can bleed through a coating later. If you have sanded and cleaned the steel thoroughly it should be fine. We felt it was an important fact to mention. The marking dye creates a film that sits top of the surface.
I learned that years back from my uncle who was a panel beater for over 50 years I got looked at like I was mad when I used it at work. A piece of masking paper works good too.
No it’s called “Dykem” it’s just for covering the metal surface so when you go over it with a file or a sander it shows the high and low spots in the metal surface.
Back when I did a ton of metal finishing I used the mushroom head that comes with an electric stud puller for better heat control ( Even though I have a gas torch with an auto relighter). Also, for beginners, you will find using a light cotton glove on the hand you are feeling the metal with will amplify damage. And if you are a beginner I wouldn't recommend a 356 as your first attempt as they are very challenging hence the requisite adjustable vixen file frame.
Sharpie has an etch that can bite into the steal and show latter. The blue dye is actually a solvent pigment that sits on top of the steal and causes no issues in the future.
JFC. That music is just atrocious. It’s so jarring the way it cuts in and out and it adds nothing to learning about how to do metal finishing. More explaining about how you’re doing the metal finishing and less bad metal music would be my suggestion.
Thanks once again Peter and Peter. You guys are champions!
Thanks, Glad you liked it
Thank you Gentlemen for the terrific lesson on metal work. Kind regards.
Your welcome.
Great video, I enjoy seeing others techniques and always find tidbits to improve on.
Another great video, thanks
Thanks
Awesome video guys
Thanks
well explained guys!
Thanks.
Excellent vid.
Thanks mate
Great video, nice tricks. Thanks a lot
You're welcome!
Great video for understanding and learning
thanks
what a great vid. started a little long winded but really gets into the hands-on detail by the end. if this series continues i'll definitely be subscribing.
Thanks
Great work fellas.
Thanks
Maybe not show every hammer and slapper hit in fast motion. Seeing how lightly he makes the strike would be of paramount importance. Thank God for closed captioning. 😊
Thanks, will keep it mind for the next one.
Definetly. I'm always wanting to see work being done in real time.
What torch setup is that? Looks like it provides pretty precise control.
Really really handy video. I know there are heaps of scenarios. I have a Holden Ute with high and low spots right along the 'banana' body lines. Would you guys do some vids on dents on body lines, both in and out. This one you did was obviously easier as you could reach dolly under, any tips where you can't?
Thanks mate. Absolutely planning on more. Dents with limited access is definitely something we need to cover.
I second this question. Would be great content to add.
Great video guys. Curious about the dye, if sharpie can bleed through paint why not the dye? I've used a big fat sharpie on a door the same way, but now wondering if that was a bad idea.
Hi mate. Some permanent markers contain an acid, that help bind the pigment to a surface. If enough acid is left on the surface it can bleed through a coating later. If you have sanded and cleaned the steel thoroughly it should be fine. We felt it was an important fact to mention. The marking dye creates a film that sits top of the surface.
I'm surprised nobody uses a nice soft rag between their palm and the surface to feel for highs and lows.
I learned that years back from my uncle who was a panel beater for over 50 years I got looked at like I was mad when I used it at work. A piece of masking paper works good too.
Can you give us a bit more info on the blue dye - is it toolmakers ink ?
The one we used here is a custom mix we’re playing with. But, yes, engineers marking fluid/die is very commonly used.
No it’s called “Dykem” it’s just for covering the metal surface so when you go over it with a file or a sander it shows the high and low spots in the metal surface.
@@mrgreezy1 Same Same
Back when I did a ton of metal finishing I used the mushroom head that comes with an electric stud puller for better heat control ( Even though I have a gas torch with an auto relighter). Also, for beginners, you will find using a light cotton glove on the hand you are feeling the metal with will amplify damage. And if you are a beginner I wouldn't recommend a 356 as your first attempt as they are very challenging hence the requisite adjustable vixen file frame.
Does Peter have a UA-cam channel or any other kind of social media?
Yes, look up “mobile car restoration” he’s on most social platforms.
Please show the panel after you are done with it! How perfect can you get it with the blue dykem?
Will do, this roof will be used on a project we're planning on documenting.
What is the different of the ink in the Sharpe vs. the Blue Dye (Blue Dye is not Ink?)
Sharpie has an etch that can bite into the steal and show latter. The blue dye is actually a solvent pigment that sits on top of the steal and causes no issues in the future.
Has that blue dye been thinned out? What did you use?
Yes, it has here. We're experimenting with different formulas.
You can thin it out with paint thinner but the more you thin it the harder it is too see
Meanwhile PDR gets the same results without even damaging the paint.
Now show me that on a xd xe flat roof skin. A big old round roof is easy 😂
I'm just not a fan of metal filing off metal because your removing the thickness
JFC. That music is just atrocious. It’s so jarring the way it cuts in and out and it adds nothing to learning about how to do metal finishing.
More explaining about how you’re doing the metal finishing and less bad metal music would be my suggestion.
Thanks for the feedback, we'll keep it in mind for the next one.