i always used henry 430 to put the tiles down. spread it, wait until it has become translucent, and then put on the tiles. don't snap a center line. that doesn't even make sense. find where the flooring boards join and make sure you're more than 3 inches from any tile edge, with the tile center right on the joint being ideal. put that tile down and put a bunch of others by it all the way to other flooring joints and most importantly to where the floor transitions into the tiled area. That is where you want almost a half to full tile because of the foot traffic and because you're going to take a permanent marker and mark where that first tile goes on the floor. you'll be able to see the marker once the glue turns clear. reminder that you can't walk on glued areas. you may not remember that when you're making your first tile mark. they don't show the hard parts of cutting the tile. the edges. you may have to cut around corners with odd angles, radiator pipes, or whatever. you can just measure the distance from to the wall taking note if you need to cut a trapezoidal shape. you can also scribe the the wall, but that i can't explain in text. with very odd parts you will have to use guess and check, but make sure you don't touch it too much with that glue. if you're using this tile in a space that has trim moulding, you'll want to take the trim or just the quarter round off so you have some margin of error. you don't need a fancy machine to cut. you can use a straight edge and a utility knife. just make sure you use a scrap tile to cut on. just score it a few times, and then snap it. clean up the edge if you want, and put it in. but first you gotta make sure the floor is fairly flat and very clean. no nails, staples, partial old flooring, dirt, sawdust, etc. get it all off. you can use a channel lock plier to remove most nails and staples. getting rid of old flooring is the extremely hard part. usually people are too lazy to do it, and you end up taking up a vinyl rolled floor on top of another vinyl rolled floor on top of old tiles on top of older tiles. you also don't really need a roller. you could use a scrap 2x4 or something that you can put a lot of pressure on that won't scuff the floor. it's pretty difficult to scuff this stuff up, but a few coats of wax will make it look nice.
Why does it look like y'all didn't even wait until the glue cured and became somewhat translucent , looks like y'all just dumped it , and started running tile
I found that a Roberts adhesive was definitely to be avoided. After weeks it was still not dry. The Henry, no problems. Ten years later I am replacing some problem tiles that got cracked, My fixes have held up though.
Men are like floor tiles if you lay them right you can walk all over them for age's 😅😊
that girl laid 1 tile. 1
Gotta earn that 77% somewow
What adhesive did you use?
i always used henry 430 to put the tiles down. spread it, wait until it has become translucent, and then put on the tiles.
don't snap a center line. that doesn't even make sense. find where the flooring boards join and make sure you're more than 3 inches from any tile edge, with the tile center right on the joint being ideal. put that tile down and put a bunch of others by it all the way to other flooring joints and most importantly to where the floor transitions into the tiled area. That is where you want almost a half to full tile because of the foot traffic and because you're going to take a permanent marker and mark where that first tile goes on the floor. you'll be able to see the marker once the glue turns clear. reminder that you can't walk on glued areas. you may not remember that when you're making your first tile mark.
they don't show the hard parts of cutting the tile. the edges. you may have to cut around corners with odd angles, radiator pipes, or whatever. you can just measure the distance from to the wall taking note if you need to cut a trapezoidal shape. you can also scribe the the wall, but that i can't explain in text. with very odd parts you will have to use guess and check, but make sure you don't touch it too much with that glue.
if you're using this tile in a space that has trim moulding, you'll want to take the trim or just the quarter round off so you have some margin of error.
you don't need a fancy machine to cut. you can use a straight edge and a utility knife. just make sure you use a scrap tile to cut on. just score it a few times, and then snap it. clean up the edge if you want, and put it in.
but first you gotta make sure the floor is fairly flat and very clean. no nails, staples, partial old flooring, dirt, sawdust, etc. get it all off. you can use a channel lock plier to remove most nails and staples. getting rid of old flooring is the extremely hard part. usually people are too lazy to do it, and you end up taking up a vinyl rolled floor on top of another vinyl rolled floor on top of old tiles on top of older tiles.
you also don't really need a roller. you could use a scrap 2x4 or something that you can put a lot of pressure on that won't scuff the floor. it's pretty difficult to scuff this stuff up, but a few coats of wax will make it look nice.
You should make a video
Very poor instruction video. It was only about VCT information. No mention of how to set up the glue, etc. Not good!
I disagree with the rolling part , if the tile and te room r warm u don’t have to
Hi, I'm installing this floor and I want to know what product is used to seal when the installation is finished, I appreciate if someone helps me
Why does it look like y'all didn't even wait until the glue cured and became somewhat translucent , looks like y'all just dumped it , and started running tile
She can come work with us any day.
would this be good fir bathrooms?
Great video 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Can this tiles be repainted ?
I found that a Roberts adhesive was definitely to be avoided. After weeks it was still not dry. The Henry, no problems. Ten years later I am replacing some problem tiles that got cracked, My fixes have held up though.
What is the price per sqft of this tile plz tell anybody
Roughly 3$ sq ft
Home depot 80 Cents per tile
Armstrong brand
@@Jerz_23 No. Prices have about doubled since your post and they are still around $1.79/sqft