Stock VWs never had a filter. A screen in the tank and a fine sreen in the fuel pump. The pump screen to be cleaned at each oil change. Always use stock fuel pump
Another great vid mate. I've a 74 beetle and like you I have a filter under the tank, but I also have a filter in the engine bay, but right over to the side after the hard-line that comes through the firewall. Another place people put one if not there, is next to the back wheel between the main hard-line, and the one that goes through the firewall. I think the reason for wanting one there is to see the condition of fuel coming from the hard-line, in case there are the beginnings of the hard-lines rusting out. Having the 2nd filter will protect the engine from that debris and also give you a good head-sup that there may be issues with the hard-line.
Hi there thanx very much for the tip.. I hav a 66 n I just bought a new fuel filter n a good German petrol hose to replace n keep the fuel filter just like u did under the fuel tank.. thanx once again all the way from kenya😊 jambo
+ghalibabubaker88 Abubaker Hi there! Great to hear the video has helped you out! Many thanks for your comments, and all the best for you and your VW! Cheers, Ricky
+IzzySimBa Excellent idea! it's a great way to ensure a clean supply of fuel is being delivered all the way through the fueline that runs in the tunnel.
Thanks for the video. I just pulled my 1977 Super Beatle out of the garage tonight and discovered it was pouring gasoline (petrol) out of the center bottom of the chassis. Any idea of where the leak may be originating?
did you find the leak? I had the same problem. It turns out it was the rubber hose leaving the fuel tank that had a hole in just the right spot to run all the way down the body to that hole.
Actually there's a good reason to mount a fuel filter up high near the carb. First of all, it's well above the fuel level in the tank so you can change it without accidentally draining the tank all over your garage floor, not to mention in your face while under the car. Secondly, if mounted a few inches from the carb, it's far enough forward not to drip on top of the distributor. The slight extra exposure of engine heat will not deteriorate the filter substantially faster than other locations provided you replace it when doing a tune up. Oh, if you are worried about the hard steel line rotting away then maybe it's time to run a new one and while you're at it maybe inspect the bottom of your fuel tank because those rot out too! (and usually well before the steel line)
I have mine off to the side in the engine bay after the metal line before the pump. Though I have seen a lot of stories of people's engine bay catching on fine, so putting it up front can be good. There are different ways to take care of it.
@@NA12495 ... back in the day I worked in a VW specialty shop and was also on the local fire department. Most of those fires were not from the filter itself, but from the OEM fuel line that tended to dry rot and not seal well. The factory line was meant to be used WITHOUT clamps. The woven fabric on the outside held enough tension on the rubber to do the job until it was about 10 years old. Of course, a leaky fuel pump or flooding carb can cause the same issue.
+Gustavo Contreras Hi there, a short shifter will have an adapter spacer that sits between the gear lever and the centre tunnel. It is a mechanism that alters the leverage you gain as you shift gears, meaning the ‘throw’ of the gear stick is shorter. Alternatively, an ‘all together’ short shift stick could be installed, but this of course, won’t look original and is pretty easy to spot. EMPI sell the gear levers and short shift kits, along with a few other manufacturers like Vintage Speed.
I do have a fuel shut off valve that I can close, they were only fitted until 1960 ish. Failing that, you can use a line clamp on the fuel hose. Cheers
Never use a fuel filter on a bug. There is a screen in the tank and a screen in the stock German Pierburg pump. Get rid of cheap Brazil and china parts.
Absolutely not. That braided hose was made to be used without clamps. The braid actually tightens the hose around the nozzle when an outward force (fuel pressure@7psi) is present. They go on much easier than they come back off. It's like that old finger torture device, very difficult to get out of it. If you have ever seen them when they were new, they came from the factory without hose clamps. Almost every hose on the car is without a hose clamp. If you see hose clamps, then you know it's not OEM.
Very well explained and straightforward. Less time onto himself than into the subject. Great video. Thank you.
I have a 69 bug and I swapped out the fuel filter from plastic to metal. No heat or other worries....works a treat!
Stock VWs never had a filter. A screen in the tank and a fine sreen in the fuel pump. The pump screen to be cleaned at each oil change. Always use stock fuel pump
In the original Pierburg fuel pump, there is a removable and cleanable plastic screen filter fitted underneath an access bolt.
very useful overview and interesting what you say about the location of the fuel filter.
CTKG thanks very much! Hope the video was some help to you. Cheers, Ricky.
Awesome explanation so vital for the safety and longevity of all beetles. Nicely done.
+Tim James-Hammond thanks Tim!
Another great vid mate. I've a 74 beetle and like you I have a filter under the tank, but I also have a filter in the engine bay, but right over to the side after the hard-line that comes through the firewall. Another place people put one if not there, is next to the back wheel between the main hard-line, and the one that goes through the firewall. I think the reason for wanting one there is to see the condition of fuel coming from the hard-line, in case there are the beginnings of the hard-lines rusting out. Having the 2nd filter will protect the engine from that debris and also give you a good head-sup that there may be issues with the hard-line.
A good point well made! Thanks mate!
Hi there thanx very much for the tip.. I hav a 66 n I just bought a new fuel filter n a good German petrol hose to replace n keep the fuel filter just like u did under the fuel tank.. thanx once again all the way from kenya😊 jambo
+ghalibabubaker88 Abubaker Hi there! Great to hear the video has helped you out! Many thanks for your comments, and all the best for you and your VW! Cheers, Ricky
Great Idea on the fuel filter! I will switch mine out to the front soon too.
+IzzySimBa Excellent idea! it's a great way to ensure a clean supply of fuel is being delivered all the way through the fueline that runs in the tunnel.
Very informative, many thanks
Hi, excellent video. I have a question about the venting of a humpback fuel tank. Was the system vented by VW and if so, how?
Hi Alan, I believe the hump back tanks were vented through the cap, although I could be wrong there. It’s a good question!
Excellent video
Thank you!
Why would a 70 bug leak gas out of the exhaust? Stuck valve? Never messed with one of these Juelz but they are a bad ass little machine
Thanks for the video. I just pulled my 1977 Super Beatle out of the garage tonight and discovered it was pouring gasoline (petrol) out of the center bottom of the chassis. Any idea of where the leak may be originating?
If it's from the centre bottom of the chassis, that could mean your hardline that runs through the tunnel is rusted out.
did you find the leak? I had the same problem. It turns out it was the rubber hose leaving the fuel tank that had a hole in just the right spot to run all the way down the body to that hole.
Only just saw this comment! Hope you got it sorted! Cheers
Actually there's a good reason to mount a fuel filter up high near the carb. First of all, it's well above the fuel level in the tank so you can change it without accidentally draining the tank all over your garage floor, not to mention in your face while under the car. Secondly, if mounted a few inches from the carb, it's far enough forward not to drip on top of the distributor. The slight extra exposure of engine heat will not deteriorate the filter substantially faster than other locations provided you replace it when doing a tune up. Oh, if you are worried about the hard steel line rotting away then maybe it's time to run a new one and while you're at it maybe inspect the bottom of your fuel tank because those rot out too! (and usually well before the steel line)
I have mine off to the side in the engine bay after the metal line before the pump. Though I have seen a lot of stories of people's engine bay catching on fine, so putting it up front can be good. There are different ways to take care of it.
@@NA12495 ... back in the day I worked in a VW specialty shop and was also on the local fire department. Most of those fires were not from the filter itself, but from the OEM fuel line that tended to dry rot and not seal well. The factory line was meant to be used WITHOUT clamps. The woven fabric on the outside held enough tension on the rubber to do the job until it was about 10 years old. Of course, a leaky fuel pump or flooding carb can cause the same issue.
@@rupe53 good info.
What is the fuel capacity on that fuel tank in this video?
What is this I've heard about a long or short shaft and knowing which one you have? I can't find any videos explaining this.
+Gustavo Contreras Hi there, a short shifter will have an adapter spacer that sits between the gear lever and the centre tunnel. It is a mechanism that alters the leverage you gain as you shift gears, meaning the ‘throw’ of the gear stick is shorter. Alternatively, an ‘all together’ short shift stick could be installed, but this of course, won’t look original and is pretty easy to spot. EMPI sell the gear levers and short shift kits, along with a few other manufacturers like Vintage Speed.
Thanks a lot!
Cheers!
how do you change the filter without emptying your fuel tank if it's up front?
I do have a fuel shut off valve that I can close, they were only fitted until 1960 ish. Failing that, you can use a line clamp on the fuel hose. Cheers
Never use a fuel filter on a bug. There is a screen in the tank and a screen in the stock German Pierburg pump. Get rid of cheap Brazil and china parts.
I don’t see any clamps on the pressure side of the fuel pump. A accident waiting to happen.
Absolutely not. That braided hose was made to be used without clamps. The braid actually tightens the hose around the nozzle when an outward force (fuel pressure@7psi) is present. They go on much easier than they come back off. It's like that old finger torture device, very difficult to get out of it. If you have ever seen them when they were new, they came from the factory without hose clamps. Almost every hose on the car is without a hose clamp. If you see hose clamps, then you know it's not OEM.
Spot on M C - that’s indeed correct!
It's no rocket science, petrol tank and pump