We used this product to put up a fence for a small play area for our grand niece and it worked wonderfully... The fence is sturdy and holding up nicely to the goats that we wanted to separate from her.
Thank you Paton. After much research the building industry is catching up to the electrical providers that have been using this for years. Concrete has its place just not for fencing those who say otherwise are stuck in a rut.
Very cool. Wondering if this would work for a mail box post. I was hating the thought of using concrete because when you have to replace the wood post, you have a hell of a time digging out the concrete. This seems like a good alternative. Tks for the video. Always good to see people thinking out of the box and alternatives. Can’t stand haters in this forum. Tks again
Good to see this system is available to the public now. I did this 35 years ago with a 2-pound density foam with an expansion rate of 20:1. It works great. It not only is quick but the foam also protects the post from rot down the road. The foam will rise higher if you warm the post hole before putting the two-part foam in. I used a propane torch, however, I have seen people pour a little gas in the hole and let it burn off. Not the safest thing to do but it works too. I replaced the fence in 2006 and only had to replace 2 posts out of 30. We didn't even have to stake the posts. The foam kicks so quickly we just held the posts in place with a level on them.
How much more did it cost? Just because it works dont mean it lasts because foam breaks down much quicker in the environment. Plastic won't but foam sure does.
That's just stupid. Won't last. More expensive. Takes longer. Traps moisture next the the post so it rots faster. Environmentally screwed. Where's the benefit again?
Love how the foam leaves a nice bowl around the post for water to retain. I’ve been a fencer for over 10 years... the bottom of the hole should have stones (allow water to disperse) then concrete to allow a heavy anchor in the ground. I’d be surprised if this fence is still standing up. It’s people like this guy that allow me to be able to be proud to call what I do, a trade 😎
There’s about 100 ways to install a fence according to all the contractors commenting here. Who knew different countries and completely different climates could have different building practices? The more you know 💫
I work for an electrical company and we use quickcrete.. it's a foam based pole setting material just like the one in this video. the poles we set are 40 feet tall and 2 feet thick at it's base. so if your worried it won't hold up well I know from experience it will.
When I had my fence installed. ( I'm in a wheelchair and had to have my 6' fence professionally installed. I bought the foam product in gallon jugs for more precise measuring. It worked great! My contractor called a buddy in the same business to come and inspect it. Now both are using the foam most of the time. Oh yes, here in NW Texas we get very strong winds. No problem!
I love the foam. I have used it twice now for my mailbox post & works incredible. A guy hit my post w his truck cracked my post but the part in the ground stayed in the ground + the post stayed straight. I was impressed. I replaced the broken post & used foam again, BUT THEN, I.m now building a tractor shed which has 3 posts. home Depot charges me $15 a bag for foam while their post concrete is $3.50 a bag. Also, I have a small motorized concrete mixer which makes the mixing a breeze so I used concrete on the shed posts but only because of the cost. If you have a job far from water, foam would be the way to go. !
Good video and demonstration. Thank you. I've used post setting quickrete a lot but may give this a shot next time. Looks good and quick for a small job. I like the fast setting time. Fence looks good!
Thanks. I have a troubles body and the thought of light weight foam instead of heavy cement is very appealing. I couldn't handle the ASRM affect of this video. It made my skin crawl!
Nice foam, but it doesn't add weight to the pole. This means that it's only held by the soil around it, while poles set in concrete are gaining that extra 20kg, which makes them hard to move even if the soil becomes muddy.
Hmmmm that looks ok and would most likely be good. My brother and i built fences for customers up in The Dalles OR for about 25 years. We used a auger like you with about same size hole. We used pea gravel, put a little in 1st so post would sit on it instead of dirt. Then we used more pea gravel around the post and tamped it down real good, filling the entire hole up with the gravel. Reason we did it this way was to make it like a dry well, The rain water would just go down the hole and NOT stay against the wood. Im 66 now and everyone of those fences we built that way are still standing with same post. Cement is not a good product to put around fence post. After awhile it will have a small area between the concrete and post and will hold water in that crack against the wood and rot it. As long as the foam STAYS glued to the wood it too should keep water away from the wood. We were building contractors and i always thought concrete was not the way to go with fence post.
I agree, I use a sharp gravel for extra friction. I think that it also behaves better than concrete or foam with frost. As frost can pull year after year the widening top of concrete out of the ground
Mr. Huteson, you are right on target. My area has clay type soils, so I backfill and tamp in 6" lifts. The tamper is a steel rod, about 1" square with beat-down head on it, it really compacts the soil. I mound-up the top of fill around the post so that water drains away. Water in the soil is soaked up by the soil, and / or keeps the air away from the wood to prevent rot. Some of my treated posts have been in the ground over 20 years and still going strong. Concrete retains a minimum of 7% moisture which is a good start to a 30% threshold for rot. Concrete shrinks, so it shrinks away from the wood to leave a small gap to hold water which soaks the wood. Someone wrote that they thought the concrete helped by adding weight. It also makes the base wider so that the post has more bearing area against the soil to prevent bearing failure and enlarging the side of the hole. By tamping and compacting the soil, the bearing strength is increased and holds the post solid, even after 20 years and working in the wind. The foam seems like an unnecessary expense.
Only useful thread of the lot. Sticking to the post makes sense to keep the water off, as does concrete causing a wider hole, etc. The ground under my fences is clay, so I also used dug-up clay for tamped backfill. Seems to have held up well for the past 5 years. No real need for the disparaging talk about lazy people or whatever, it's more like no one has ever put forth a definitive method with clear reasons. I'm starting to think it might make sense to dip the posts in roofing tar before setting in tamped earth or whatever and maybe that would be the most effective?
Darren, I don't recommend the tar. In one instance, the tar will hold moisture inside the wood, even as it keeps moisture out. In the other, the lack of tar will let moisture migrate out of the wood, regardless of how it got into the wood. For this reason, I recommend (see above) that you tamp the soil / clay / sand / gravel around the post and let the moisture be pulled out as the soil dries. Top the backfilled hole with clay as a cap, also mound up to let the water drain away from the post. In the bottom of the hole, set the post on a couple of inches of gravel (in pantyhose) to create a bottom drain. If your soil has low shear strength, this method will not work.
Ive worked with Ameren Ue numerous times in my 16 years in the field and have yet to see them fill the holes with anything but concrete or compacted clay and gravel combination. Whoever told you this took you for a ride. Epa would be all over there ass for using foam.
My first comment was a joke, I am a equipment operator and we do a lot of digging in for electric lines so we see a lot of poles set. Not one time have I ever seen the electric company use foam. Auger a hole in the ground, drive the post in and use a compactor around it. We have a lot of clay and rock here though, in the ozarks.
Thanks for posting the video. I know it takes quite a bit of time to post these and they help us understand whether we want to use the product or not. I for one would not use the product after viewing your video and am glad I watched it. Thanks again.
I tried that same method and same product. I followed the directions on the package. it's a good thing, I only used it only on one post .... where my mailbox was to be located. it's true it holds the post, that's definitely not stable enough for my fences. I can barely push and pull on my mailbox and it moves as much as 2". Believe me, it's far better to consider using Concrete for your fencing base instead of the foams.
ok you two doubters, it is obvious you have never used spray foam or you would know that stuff does not have any strength to speak of. it is mostly a fill for air spaces as an insulator. it is easily compressed and once compressed it loses its ability to hold firm.
This isn't a spray foam. It was made for this application and worked great for me and my posts. Having said that, I agree that foams may not be best for applications in enclosed living quarters.
Great video. Foam works great on my ranch, where water is scarce. Minimal clean-up speeds up the process too. Nice final product on your fence. Looks great!
Over here in the UK we have had it for over 30 years comes in airosol type containers and you can just about glue anything.SoI hope the fence stays true and can stand the test of time, brilliant presentation
I build fences for a profession. I use 60 lb bag of high strength concrete at each posts , about $3 a bag. It becomes the footings for a wall. I use coated screws and never nails. Using this on my fences would be like spending $65k on a nice ride, and requesting hub cap covers.
I live in a VERY high rainfall area in Scotland. Many places where I've put fences are waterlogged much of the time, and can flood for weeks. Then there's freezing, and high winds. I won't speculate how that stuff would cope here, but I would not expect it to compete with concrete footings.
60 lb bag of conc mix for $3 ? Seems amazingly low cost to me, & you'd need the strength of a gorilla to carry bags that weight. I agree nails are nigh useless but would be interested to hear what screws you have decided on. In frustration (I'm close to the ocean) I have ended up using 10G x 1.5" stainless sq drive. found it necessary to predrill with runners that are harder tan pine!
I used this product for a large fence in my backyard and it’s vastly simpler than concrete and quicker. BUT, the foam has zero weight to it. Something I wasn’t considering. So in the problem is that in wet areas where the soil never dries hard, the weight of the fence completely pulls down the posts. So there’s your warning, don’t use in soggy soil
I used this stuff last year as directed. I did one post in concrete too to compare. This stuff still allows the post to wobble a bit. It is great for a birdhouse post, lightpost, etc. I would not use it for decks, foundations, etc.
Would recommend anyone making a fence, to string line your fence before placing posts. This will ensure the fence will maintain the same level thoughout.
Why do you think he didn’t do that already? You can see his posts have been staked into place. And you can see his fence turned out straight and level. So I think your comment is a little misguided. Or at least misinformed.
This is a fairly neat idea. But usefulness depends on how much it costs. I'll have to look that up. Personally, I just use Quickrete fast-setting concrete. You pour the dry mix in the hole and then pour in your water and it's done!
@@jonnyrotten9755 First of all, I've actually done both ways. Second of all, can you see how stirring concrete into water is easier because water doesn't build up resistance to the stirring until you have the right amount of concrete mixed into it.
Thank you for sharing. Some people will prefer the foam and others concrete. I personally like concrete but, it does not mean that I will limit my learning curve and not trying to learn new ways to do bussiness. Great video thank you again.
Responding to a comment you posted at least 5 years ago, this stuff is trash. Avoid, stay away from. The foam eventually contracts a little bit creating voids and wiggle room for the fence to sway in.
pole foam as its known in the utility industry has been used to shore up leaning poles for many years. when used in the commercial version it's very fast to use, very effective and efficient. it's longevity seems to be in the 20-30 yr range. but it should be used carefully as it can have "explosive" effects.
I've seen Motorway (Highway) crash rails almost always have expanding foam over ooze on the posts? Not sure if there is concrete below or just foam? They are designed to take a vehicle crash so maybe they are supposed to 'give' a bit?
sounds you're a real wiz bang moron to me Jamie wood. it's clear you know nothing you little troll. just go back under your rock and leave the world to real people.
Jimmy Walker Wow someone gives you facts about the product you just saw used and you discard our like old garbage cause it's not the cool thing obviously the comments lol be smart and alone not stupid and follow.
I’d love to see how the fence performs in strong winds. You can buy postcrete here in the UK 🇬🇧 already mixed, add water in the hole pour bag in, sets in 5 minutes.
I've always used a bag of stone in the whole. You put some stone in the bottom to the whole, put in the pole then add the rest of the stone around the pole. I then fill the rest of the whole with dirt. By doing it this way you get good drainage making the poles last year's longer. When set in concrete, water gets trapped around the pole as it shrinks eventually rotting the pole.
Wow. That explains why my expensive wooden privacy fence is snapping off at the bottom. They are rotting. Love this information,. Makes good sense ..thanks
@@Lakelandcowboy69 I learned this several years ago from a coworker doing maintenance in a city parks department. We set metal poles in concrete. I've pulled a wooden treated pole out of my yard 10 years after I put it in. It looked like I'd installed it the week before.
ua-cam.com/video/g2iYvyiJYsg/v-deo.html wrong this is becoming the industry standard. It’s been used in the electrical field and with telephone poles for years.
I put in a new mailbox post recently and poured dry concrete around the post then poured a gallon of water on top per the instructions. Was inexpensive, fast, easy, and no mess. Dried quickly too.
Thanks for the informative video. It is probably an expensive solution but worth thinking about. You have an excellent presentation style so please keep up the good work.
I used this foam under my front porch to keep out burrowing wasps. The wasps dug the dirt our and moved gravel. The foam stopped them. Easy to use too.
The reason foam isn't designed for fencing is due to expansive soils. When the soil is saturated, it expands and applies pressure. In times of drought the soil shrinks, cracks, and dries out. The weight of concrete helps anchor the post during loss of support during these cycling periods.
the time you spend leveling screwing it... then pay 20bucks for a bag of foam which doesn't even do 1 post... instead put a post in, bucket of water, bag of postcrete for a fiver, level on, hold for a minute and job done..
No gravel needed. Postcrete is mix already. Bag cost 4-5£. Fill 1/3 of the hole with water follwing bag of postcrete, level on, job done.. Didnt want to offend you man. You just end up double the price of you fence
Yeah I did the same, and it was about $5 US per bag here. But I did put a little bit of "drainage gravel" under the posts, although it may not do anything since the water I put in before the mix probably just filled in around the gravel.
Hello! I was extremely cynical when I first saw "foam" and "fence post", but it appears that this has great potential. I've got questions though. A) Cost per post relative to that of concrete, factoring labor time. B) Longevity of foam in the environment (UV exposure, free thaw, etc) C) Strength retained with constant sideways force (branch pushing against the fence, hobo constantly leaning on the fence) Thanks!
I don't know anything about carpentry, building, or otherwise, but that's a pretty damn good looking fence. Also that foam is cool as hell. Thanks for the video!
This is a great how-to video! I need to install (2) sun shade poles and this video spells it out very clearly. I will borrow my BIL for a second pair of hands.
Thanks for the video. It was fun to watch, but I'll stick with fast cement concrete for 1/2 the price and not adding more plastic into the environment.
I will go with cement and concrete w hi ich has been used for centuries in construction successful and non chemical. This product can be easy damaged by cold and heat
Interesting video...not sure I would use it...but now I know there is a $18 per post option instead of concrete...:) great vid though very well narrated and informative
Taught to me by my SeaBee Father in Law how to quickly insert a deck/fence post using bag concrete. Insert post, poor in 1/2 hole of water, poor in concrete mix (dry), mix using post action, more water, more concrete mix, done in 5 minutes, next post....... Works every time and never had a fail.
Funny another guy commented moments before you swearing that pea gravel works even better! Seems like everyone has their own version of “the best way”.
Or alternately use two small cross beams of wood screwed (not nailed) at right angles a few inches up from the foot of the post and pack hole with gravel and stones. Cheap and Eco-friendly. Will hold a post/bench firmly.
I poured concrete and foam around various posts around my yard to compare. After hardening, I gave the poles a good shake back and forth. The foam loosens, the concrete doesn't budge.
Probably easy to pull up. Once your pour concrete its almost impossible to pull up. I know because I just did it the other day. I spent about an hour on one pole. Had to move a pole the previous owners had in the yard.
Right on built over 100 wheelchair ramps in my career maybe same number of decks never premixed concrete water dump powder in hole pack and top with water done
Avoid mess of concrete... uses plastic to avoid mess of sticky foam. If you were in a desert, or somewhere difficult to find/use water, then yes, this is an interesting alternative to Postcrete.
You don't use foam OR concrete. You tamp crushed rock (typically 3/4-down) in the hole around the post. Using concrete or foam locks the moisture into the wooden post where it will rot out the post. The fence posts will last for years longer this way. I did mine 13 years ago using 6x6" p.t. wood posts set with tamped crushed rock. We get hard-freezes every winter up here (Canada) and our soil is red clay gumbo where I am. Fence and posts are still arrow-straight today - and not rotten like the collapsed fence ( c/w hunks of concrete with square holes through them) that I removed back when I originally bought my place!
i doubt wood would be arrow straight after all those years. it is just not in its nature. also you can wrap the bottom of the post to avoid moisture or even paint it. once concrete sets up moisture will not penetrate it but it will around crushed rock.
Maybe you're right. I bought my house in 2005 which was 1 year old at the time. All post in the ground WITH CONCRETE rotted and broke off at the concrete top in 2015. That's 11 years. I'm in the Bay area where it only rains 4 months out of the year and is dry the rest. For all those here who claim concrete lasts for many decades, please explain that. The parts of the fence sitting on top of the retaining wall with brackets are just fine (no rot). Bottom line: concrete draws water from the soil and the wood soaks it up ending up rotting away.
Using foam or concrete, wood rot will occur with the post being exposed to the top soil. I suggest using concrete formed above ground and angled so water will flow away from the post. May not look at nice but just search for videos of removing rotted fence post and you will not want to have to do that.
@@darrellsaturnbigfoot Holmes is cool, has great ideas but only if folks have bottomless pockets. Change a lightbulb....need the top bulb ever, replace the fixture for some energy compliance reason, the wire color of home is off so let's rewire the house, add a breaker, new switch . $1 fix now cost 20,000. LOL
The fence guys I have worked with around here (Northern California. No frost/freezing) Stand the post up plumb, fill the hole with dry fence post mix and tamp it real good. When they're all done framing, they go along and wet all the holes. I just replaced a fence done here that way in 1978. Some of the posts were "kinda" bad. Not all. Worst part was the fence boards mostly had rotted where they were attached to the 2X4 frame. These were "redwood" posts also and not the P.T. posts that are more widely used currently.
I poured river rock gravel in the bottom. Coated the post with tar before using this product. It's been 6 years and my fence is still standing strong. It's a lot less time consuming especially when you work 60 plus hours a week. Don't use those cardboard tubes. I used them on my first couple posts and had to later pack the ground with more dirt and gravel.
I used this to put in the bottom of some really big planters that I have in the back yard. Well, one planter got the foam and the other two I just filled with soil. Guess which ones are all but impossible to move??? lol. The foam one, is of course, pretty easy to slide around. So yeah not just about the cost to the wallet, think of your back. it was kind of spendy but I love the results. and it sets up very hard. I made sure I put drain holes through the foam to the weep holes in the pot while it was sitll curing,
Very nice fence you've built. Great video. I can't imagine that foam will last as long as concreted though. Maybe you can post a follow up video in 8 to 10 years :)
using Quickset is illegal because it doesn't have enough required strength. I'm not sure how they measure it or whatever, but in the state i live the council doesn't allow it for commercial building projects
Utilities have been using foam for transmission poles for years now, it's only just being introduced for the homeowner. I like Sika products in general, good stuff, but they have always been expensive. You can buy the larger (not in a 2 part bag) Kits that will do 10 poles for about 8 bucks each, still more expensive than concrete..The only big benefit I can see for a homeowner is these set up really quick. Both are good for me
I am wondering if this is to save time and manpower, because when utility poles go down, it is often because of a hurricane or tornado, where both time and manpower are pushed to limits and come at a premium. I am sure it works or they probably wouldn't do it, but overall cost is their prime objective, and labor + transportation are the bulk of that. Also, since they buy their product in bulk, pay to transport it, etc. there are multiple ways this could simply be an overall cost cutting measure at that scale.
CSX2586 Rail Rider Raby Yes, this is my approach too. In the absolute driest conditions...I did my fence in August (hottest part of summer) and we hadn't seen rain in weeks...the dry concrete in the hole worked just fine. Within 24 hrs the concrete was solid. Amazing how the powder can draw any moisture out of the surrounding ground and soil.
indylovelace, concrete will also draw moisture out of your skin so if you ever get it on you be sure and wash it off asap. was working with a guy years ago and we were pouring a driveway. he told me of the time he first started messing with concrete and they were pouring concrete and he took off his shoes and waded in it like it was mud. he said after they were done his feet were all dry, cracked and bleeding and hurt for days afterwards.
I used that exact foam to fill the bulkheads of a small boat that I built. It is a closed cell foam and therefore water proof. Dont worry about the haters posting negative comments.
How has this held up since last year. Please come back and pin a comment on how this product works after 5 years. Rebuilding a fence now that the posts were concreted in 13 years ago. I live in North Texas. Our soil is black clay. It goes from totally saturated in the winter to dried out with three inch wide cracks in the summer. I will try this product somewhere but from experience with other expanding foam products. I do not see this one holding up to well.
@@bustinya2240 sorry I deleted the comment. I used the stuff for basement insulation. It’s fantastic. I hope it works for posts because I’m using it today. For my clothes line 🥺
There is no such thing as structural foam. I've had to replace posts that people have foamed b4. Do the job right. Use concrete. No use trying to re-invent the wheel
@1:04 pushes dirt in hole...then says pull dirt away from hole. Also the bag says "post fix" not installation...I don't know this product so just wondering. I see a lot of the comments say pour a bag of concrete and water and that seems like a lot less work and far more durable.
So he knocks a little soil in the hole. So what? You took the time to specifically point out the exact time too. You, are an ass who likely never makes mistakes. Must be fun living remotely close to you.
Tried the product. Easy to use. Quick. No concrete dust everywhere. BUT I noticed after a couple days the post I used this on - fence post with fence attached - had moved. The foam had compressed allowing the post to move. Fence had been held level while allowing foam to cure. None of the posts I used Quickcrete on have moved. This may work in some soils for posts with no load, but for me I’ll stick with concrete.
Interesting. Been doing fences & deck's for decades. Never imagined you can use foam. Wonder what the long term stability is like. Is there any warrantee against deterioration or breakdown of the foam?
Finally someone with a civil tongue. I also would like to know how the foam holds up long term. And, would it be suggested (no haters please) for chain link?
Save yourself the $ 13 a bag , as a small carpentry contractor i have occasionally over the years been asked to install some fencing , i used to fill every hole with a bag of post set or redi mix and used this product once when it was supplied by homeowner until a friend of mine who is the manager for the landscaping division of a large farm store chain told me to just backfill with the soil you removed ,tamp the shit out of the soil with the flat end of digging bar and check for plumb as your filling the hole up and keep poles linearly straight with a string line.They only set posts in cement where a gate will be hung off of a post and go a little deeper /wider maybe with hole to prevent leaning or gate sag . Works extremely well. glad i listened to him! Besides when it rains your posts wont pop out of the ground since they are now like a fishing bobber. I had this problem. do not buy this product any one who endorses it is paid too
Sand and gravel are good,I like to use broken up bricks and rubble rammed into the hole around the post using a large iron bar, it makes it very solid. The big benefit over using concrete is that it doesn't trap water around the post, it allows it to drain away making the post last longer. It works of course just as well with concrete posts.
Neat idea but the cost per post is a bit high. Quikrete has fence post specific mix that you dump into the hole with the post and add water. Quick, easy, and cost effective. Average cost per 60lb bag (which can fill two or more posts holes depending on depth) is $3.25-$5.47 at (my local) Lowe's while one bag of this foam averages $12.28-$14.98 per bag. Ease of use is similar but that foam (the unused portions/trimmings) is non biodegradable, neither is concrete but the amount left over in the bags of concrete is negligible and you can recycle the paper bags. That foam is a little trickier to recycle also. But this is just my thought on the idea.
PatonHaus that is true for a large post hole, I am saying that for smaller jobs like chain link fencing, Pickett fencing, or small clotheslines bagged post mix would be more cost effective. 6' 8' and 10' privacy fences encounter far more force from wind and do need a larger concrete base (although I prefer 6" x 32" base for speeding things up a little) to withstand the side forces from the wind.
I used to be a distributor of SIKA (a Swiss Company), we sold great products. I retired before this product came out, but I am sure it is fine. The important thing is to ensure you have enough wood underground so as to keep any momentum over the pole at minimum, That is, try to bury one third of the whole length of the post.
Great video man, seriously good job! I doubt I'll ever use foam, but I will continue to watch your videos! Very peaceful, easy going and comprehensive 👌🏼
Note: Do not use with vinyl fence posts. It will float the posts up out of the ground as it expands!! The vinyl posts don't have enough weight to counteract the lifting power of the foam.
Exactly. As a general rule, try to avoid cement other than on things like gates. Drainage gravel works really well because it locks into itself. Start with a gravel a few inches below the bottom of the post. Stick the post in and get it where you want. Put in more gravel and tamp it. Cover up with maybe 6" of soil, tamp that, and you have a good-looking install that will last for ages.
I have never use this product before but I have installed a few fences and I think anything can work really as long as you have a good Tamp on the dirt around the post.
I did my 200’ of fence with this in 2014. I live in north east Indiana. Even with ground freeze, the fence still looks great!
What diameter and depth did you dig the holes?
Yeah I would like to know how deep.
How’s it doing now?
We used this product to put up a fence for a small play area for our grand niece and it worked wonderfully... The fence is sturdy and holding up nicely to the goats that we wanted to separate from her.
Thank you Paton. After much research the building industry is catching up to the electrical providers that have been using this for years. Concrete has its place just not for fencing those who say otherwise are stuck in a rut.
Very cool. Wondering if this would work for a mail box post. I was hating the thought of using concrete because when you have to replace the wood post, you have a hell of a time digging out the concrete. This seems like a good alternative. Tks for the video. Always good to see people thinking out of the box and alternatives. Can’t stand haters in this forum. Tks again
Good to see this system is available to the public now. I did this 35 years ago with a 2-pound density foam with an expansion rate of 20:1. It works great. It not only is quick but the foam also protects the post from rot down the road. The foam will rise higher if you warm the post hole before putting the two-part foam in. I used a propane torch, however, I have seen people pour a little gas in the hole and let it burn off. Not the safest thing to do but it works too. I replaced the fence in 2006 and only had to replace 2 posts out of 30. We didn't even have to stake the posts. The foam kicks so quickly we just held the posts in place with a level on them.
Warm the hole???LMFAO That's just too much!
How much more did it cost? Just because it works dont mean it lasts because foam breaks down much quicker in the environment. Plastic won't but foam sure does.
That's just stupid. Won't last. More expensive. Takes longer. Traps moisture next the the post so it rots faster. Environmentally screwed. Where's the benefit again?
George, the benefit is to the person selling this. What is that phrase...an idiot and his money will soon be parted?
Love how the foam leaves a nice bowl around the post for water to retain. I’ve been a fencer for over 10 years... the bottom of the hole should have stones (allow water to disperse) then concrete to allow a heavy anchor in the ground. I’d be surprised if this fence is still standing up. It’s people like this guy that allow me to be able to be proud to call what I do, a trade 😎
There’s about 100 ways to install a fence according to all the contractors commenting here. Who knew different countries and completely different climates could have different building practices? The more you know 💫
Trim and caulk.
I work for an electrical company and we use quickcrete.. it's a foam based pole setting material just like the one in this video. the poles we set are 40 feet tall and 2 feet thick at it's base. so if your worried it won't hold up well I know from experience it will.
When I had my fence installed. ( I'm in a wheelchair and had to have my 6' fence professionally installed. I bought the foam product in gallon jugs for more precise measuring. It worked great! My contractor called a buddy in the same business to come and inspect it. Now both are using the foam most of the time. Oh yes, here in NW Texas we get very strong winds. No problem!
What foam product?
I love the foam. I have used it twice now for my mailbox post & works incredible. A guy hit my post w his
truck cracked my post but the part in the ground stayed in the ground + the post stayed straight. I was
impressed. I replaced the broken post & used foam again,
BUT THEN,
I.m now building a tractor shed which has 3 posts. home Depot charges me $15 a bag for foam
while their post concrete is $3.50 a bag. Also, I have a small motorized concrete mixer which makes
the mixing a breeze so I used concrete on the shed posts but only because of the cost. If you have
a job far from water, foam would be the way to go.
!
30 years ago they were installing the big satellite dishes with foam instead of concrete and Kansas wind never ever moved them, works good
Good video and demonstration. Thank you. I've used post setting quickrete a lot but may give this a shot next time. Looks good and quick for a small job. I like the fast setting time. Fence looks good!
Check reviews for this product first.
Thanks. I have a troubles body and the thought of light weight foam instead of heavy cement is very appealing. I couldn't handle the ASRM affect of this video. It made my skin crawl!
Excellent recommendation and thank you for your clear instructions. Kind greetings from Cumbria in the U.K.
Nice foam, but it doesn't add weight to the pole. This means that it's only held by the soil around it, while poles set in concrete are gaining that extra 20kg, which makes them hard to move even if the soil becomes muddy.
Smieszek80 it's also hard to move a 8 foot 4x4 that is actually put into a 24" hole, a proper hole not a giant lazy digger hole.
Acts like pendulum in softer soils as well.
This.
YUP. Made this mistake myself and found out the hard way
Oooh thanks for the tip mate I don’t think I will use the foam for permanent things cheers
I used for my mailbox. Worked out great! Way easier than concrete. No issues. Good product.
How is your letter box going now? Did the foam hold up?
Yes, no problem. A truck even backed into post and broke the upper half, but post is still solid after repair.
Hmmmm that looks ok and would most likely be good. My brother and i built fences for customers up in The Dalles OR for about 25 years. We used a auger like you with about same size hole. We used pea gravel, put a little in 1st so post would sit on it instead of dirt. Then we used more pea gravel around the post and tamped it down real good, filling the entire hole up with the gravel. Reason we did it this way was to make it like a dry well, The rain water would just go down the hole and NOT stay against the wood. Im 66 now and everyone of those fences we built that way are still standing with same post. Cement is not a good product to put around fence post. After awhile it will have a small area between the concrete and post and will hold water in that crack against the wood and rot it. As long as the foam STAYS glued to the wood it too should keep water away from the wood. We were building contractors and i always thought concrete was not the way to go with fence post.
I agree, I use a sharp gravel for extra friction. I think that it also behaves better than concrete or foam with frost. As frost can pull year after year the widening top of concrete out of the ground
Mr. Huteson, you are right on target.
My area has clay type soils, so I backfill and tamp in 6" lifts. The tamper is a steel rod, about 1" square with beat-down head on it, it really compacts the soil. I mound-up the top of fill around the post so that water drains away. Water in the soil is soaked up by the soil, and / or keeps the air away from the wood to prevent rot. Some of my treated posts have been in the ground over 20 years and still going strong.
Concrete retains a minimum of 7% moisture which is a good start to a 30% threshold for rot. Concrete shrinks, so it shrinks away from the wood to leave a small gap to hold water which soaks the wood.
Someone wrote that they thought the concrete helped by adding weight. It also makes the base wider so that the post has more bearing area against the soil to prevent bearing failure and enlarging the side of the hole. By tamping and compacting the soil, the bearing strength is increased and holds the post solid, even after 20 years and working in the wind.
The foam seems like an unnecessary expense.
Only useful thread of the lot. Sticking to the post makes sense to keep the water off, as does concrete causing a wider hole, etc.
The ground under my fences is clay, so I also used dug-up clay for tamped backfill. Seems to have held up well for the past 5 years.
No real need for the disparaging talk about lazy people or whatever, it's more like no one has ever put forth a definitive method with clear reasons.
I'm starting to think it might make sense to dip the posts in roofing tar before setting in tamped earth or whatever and maybe that would be the most effective?
Darren,
I don't recommend the tar. In one instance, the tar will hold moisture inside the wood, even as it keeps moisture out. In the other, the lack of tar will let moisture migrate out of the wood, regardless of how it got into the wood.
For this reason, I recommend (see above) that you tamp the soil / clay / sand / gravel around the post and let the moisture be pulled out as the soil dries.
Top the backfilled hole with clay as a cap, also mound up to let the water drain away from the post. In the bottom of the hole, set the post on a couple of inches of gravel (in pantyhose) to create a bottom drain.
If your soil has low shear strength, this method will not work.
Michael M fortunately, that's exactly what I had ended up doing. But why would shrinkage not be an issue with the clay?
Power companies have been using foam to set there power poles for years now. I’m glad it’s finally coming to the residential market.
Ray Wilson so that's why they are always leaning and fall over in high winds......
Ive worked with Ameren Ue numerous times in my 16 years in the field and have yet to see them fill the holes with anything but concrete or compacted clay and gravel combination. Whoever told you this took you for a ride. Epa would be all over there ass for using foam.
My first comment was a joke, I am a equipment operator and we do a lot of digging in for electric lines so we see a lot of poles set. Not one time have I ever seen the electric company use foam. Auger a hole in the ground, drive the post in and use a compactor around it. We have a lot of clay and rock here though, in the ozarks.
40 year service life.
if you want temporary, then it's the stuff for you.
Thomas Bailey ua-cam.com/video/0c_af02kBao/v-deo.html
Thanks for posting the video. I know it takes quite a bit of time to post these and they help us understand whether we want to use the product or not. I for one would not use the product after viewing your video and am glad I watched it. Thanks again.
I tried that same method and same product. I followed the directions on the package. it's a good thing, I only used it only on one post .... where my mailbox was to be located. it's true it holds the post, that's definitely not stable enough for my fences. I can barely push and pull on my mailbox and it moves as much as 2". Believe me, it's far better to consider using Concrete for your fencing base instead of the foams.
videotracx that could be bc your soil is unstable rather than a bad product I’m sure you would use this in a sandy soil...my opinion of course
ok you two doubters, it is obvious you have never used spray foam or you would know that stuff does not have any strength to speak of. it is mostly a fill for air spaces as an insulator. it is easily compressed and once compressed it loses its ability to hold firm.
This isn't a spray foam. It was made for this application and worked great for me and my posts. Having said that, I agree that foams may not be best for applications in enclosed living quarters.
Great video. Foam works great on my ranch, where water is scarce. Minimal clean-up speeds up the process too. Nice final product on your fence. Looks great!
MERIDIAN HOPPER
Over here in the UK we have had it for over 30 years comes in airosol type containers and you can just about glue anything.SoI hope the fence stays true and can stand the test of time, brilliant presentation
Come on Mate foam is not going to hold a fence in the the British winds
I build fences for a profession. I use 60 lb bag of high strength concrete at each posts , about $3 a bag. It becomes the footings for a wall. I use coated screws and never nails. Using this on my fences would be like spending $65k on a nice ride, and requesting hub cap covers.
roger drum
....EXACTLY.
Well said!
I live in a VERY high rainfall area in Scotland. Many places where I've put fences are waterlogged much of the time, and can flood for weeks. Then there's freezing, and high winds. I won't speculate how that stuff would cope here, but I would not expect it to compete with concrete footings.
church!
60 lb bag of conc mix for $3 ?
Seems amazingly low cost to me, & you'd need the strength of a gorilla to carry bags that weight.
I agree nails are nigh useless but would be interested to hear what screws you have decided on.
In frustration (I'm close to the ocean) I have ended up using 10G x 1.5" stainless sq drive. found it necessary to predrill with runners that are harder tan pine!
I used this product for a large fence in my backyard and it’s vastly simpler than concrete and quicker.
BUT, the foam has zero weight to it. Something I wasn’t considering. So in the problem is that in wet areas where the soil never dries hard, the weight of the fence completely pulls down the posts.
So there’s your warning, don’t use in soggy soil
Thanks for the warning. I live in a wet area.
Excellent point!
maybe dig your holes deeper like 3 feet
I used this stuff last year as directed. I did one post in concrete too to compare. This stuff still allows the post to wobble a bit. It is great for a birdhouse post, lightpost, etc. I would not use it for decks, foundations, etc.
Agree
Would recommend anyone making a fence, to string line your fence before placing posts. This will ensure the fence will maintain the same level thoughout.
Not level but straight line
Why do you think he didn’t do that already? You can see his posts have been staked into place. And you can see his fence turned out straight and level. So I think your comment is a little misguided. Or at least misinformed.
This is a fairly neat idea. But usefulness depends on how much it costs. I'll have to look that up. Personally, I just use Quickrete fast-setting concrete. You pour the dry mix in the hole and then pour in your water and it's done!
Way easier to fill the holes with water and pour the concrete in afterwords.
@@marcusanthony179 how is that easier? You literally just reversed the order..
@@jonnyrotten9755 First of all, I've actually done both ways. Second of all, can you see how stirring concrete into water is easier because water doesn't build up resistance to the stirring until you have the right amount of concrete mixed into it.
😅😅😅😅😅
Thank you for sharing. Some people will prefer the foam and others concrete. I personally like concrete but, it does not mean that I will limit my learning curve and not trying to learn new ways to do bussiness. Great video thank you again.
hope you do annual follow up videos. I’d be curious to see how the posts hold up over time
Responding to a comment you posted at least 5 years ago, this stuff is trash. Avoid, stay away from. The foam eventually contracts a little bit creating voids and wiggle room for the fence to sway in.
pole foam as its known in the utility industry has been used to shore up leaning poles for many years. when used in the commercial version it's very fast to use, very effective and efficient. it's longevity seems to be in the 20-30 yr range. but it should be used carefully as it can have "explosive" effects.
I've seen Motorway (Highway) crash rails almost always have expanding foam over ooze on the posts? Not sure if there is concrete below or just foam? They are designed to take a vehicle crash so maybe they are supposed to 'give' a bit?
Jamie I'll bet your an intellectual.
sounds you're a real wiz bang moron to me Jamie wood. it's clear you know nothing you little troll. just go back under your rock and leave the world to real people.
used once in awhile in the siren industry too depending on soil it is super expensive but on loose soils holds firm...
Jimmy Walker Wow someone gives you facts about the product you just saw used and you discard our like old garbage cause it's not the cool thing obviously the comments lol be smart and alone not stupid and follow.
I’d love to see how the fence performs in strong winds.
You can buy postcrete here in the UK 🇬🇧 already mixed, add water in the hole pour bag in, sets in 5 minutes.
Exactly I would never use foam.. The Scottish winds would blow the post down
I've always used a bag of stone in the whole. You put some stone in the bottom to the whole, put in the pole then add the rest of the stone around the pole. I then fill the rest of the whole with dirt. By doing it this way you get good drainage making the poles last year's longer. When set in concrete, water gets trapped around the pole as it shrinks eventually rotting the pole.
Wow. That explains why my expensive wooden privacy fence is snapping off at the bottom. They are rotting. Love this information,. Makes good sense ..thanks
@@Lakelandcowboy69 I learned this several years ago from a coworker doing maintenance in a city parks department. We set metal poles in concrete. I've pulled a wooden treated pole out of my yard 10 years after I put it in. It looked like I'd installed it the week before.
Totally worth watching to realize, concrete is easier to handle, and is all round better for post fixing :D
ua-cam.com/video/g2iYvyiJYsg/v-deo.html wrong this is becoming the industry standard. It’s been used in the electrical field and with telephone poles for years.
janussQv while it rots out the post, NOPE
The industry standard has in many cases been really really bad....
You can't always trust the industry standards....
I put in a new mailbox post recently and poured dry concrete around the post then poured a gallon of water on top per the instructions. Was inexpensive, fast, easy, and no mess. Dried quickly too.
Thanks for the video. Now I know not to bother with expensive foam and just go with quick setting cement instead.
Don't mention it.
THANK YOU for a short, concise, polite reply!
thanks for showing another way of doing post, right or wrong, cost effective or not its just another way of doing it.
Thanks for the informative video. It is probably an expensive solution but worth thinking about. You have an excellent presentation style so please keep up the good work.
Nice. Learned something new. I didn't know expanding foam existed, until now.
Fill the hole around the post with pea gravel, it drains well and works just as well as concrete w/o the mess.
Good Job, You saved the planet
Wow! This is great! Didn't know they have all kinds of deals out there until i saw this video! Thanks!
Wow! More work AND more expensive than concrete! Takes more time too! What a great idea!!
I used this foam under my front porch to keep out burrowing wasps. The wasps dug the dirt our and moved gravel. The foam stopped them. Easy to use too.
The reason foam isn't designed for fencing is due to expansive soils. When the soil is saturated, it expands and applies pressure. In times of drought the soil shrinks, cracks, and dries out. The weight of concrete helps anchor the post during loss of support during these cycling periods.
the time you spend leveling screwing it... then pay 20bucks for a bag of foam which doesn't even do 1 post... instead put a post in, bucket of water, bag of postcrete for a fiver, level on, hold for a minute and job done..
I'm pleased you enjoyed the video so much! Feel free to watch some of my other videos and provide more of your insightful wisdom.
don't forget the gravel!
No gravel needed. Postcrete is mix already. Bag cost 4-5£. Fill 1/3 of the hole with water follwing bag of postcrete, level on, job done.. Didnt want to offend you man. You just end up double the price of you fence
Yeah I did the same, and it was about $5 US per bag here. But I did put a little bit of "drainage gravel" under the posts, although it may not do anything since the water I put in before the mix probably just filled in around the gravel.
Paulius Taparauskas not very cheep to use
I used this to replace a mailbox post laast year. Still solid as a rock. I also used it on foundation posts for a bridge. Same result.
Hello!
I was extremely cynical when I first saw "foam" and "fence post", but it appears that this has great potential. I've got questions though.
A) Cost per post relative to that of concrete, factoring labor time.
B) Longevity of foam in the environment (UV exposure, free thaw, etc)
C) Strength retained with constant sideways force (branch pushing against the fence, hobo constantly leaning on the fence)
Thanks!
Hobo😂😂😂
I don't know anything about carpentry, building, or otherwise, but that's a pretty damn good looking fence. Also that foam is cool as hell. Thanks for the video!
Thank you!
This is a great how-to video! I need to install (2) sun shade poles and this video spells it out very clearly. I will borrow my BIL for a second pair of hands.
Cling film is so much faster than bottles :)
Great video. I think concrete would be cheaper.
I'm sure the researchers and engineers at Sika have done a little homework. They make great products for many different construction applications.
Thanks for the video. It was fun to watch, but I'll stick with fast cement concrete for 1/2 the price and not adding more plastic into the environment.
I will go with cement and concrete w hi ich has been used for centuries in construction successful and non chemical. This product can be easy damaged by cold and heat
Interesting video...not sure I would use it...but now I know there is a $18 per post option instead of concrete...:) great vid though very well narrated and informative
I get quickcrete for $4.19 per bag.
Taught to me by my SeaBee Father in Law how to quickly insert a deck/fence post using bag concrete. Insert post, poor in 1/2 hole of water, poor in concrete mix (dry), mix using post action, more water, more concrete mix, done in 5 minutes, next post....... Works every time and never had a fail.
Funny another guy commented moments before you swearing that pea gravel works even better! Seems like everyone has their own version of “the best way”.
didnt even realize there was a product like this. Thank you.
Or alternately use two small cross beams of wood screwed (not nailed) at right angles a few inches up from the foot of the post and pack hole with gravel and stones. Cheap and Eco-friendly. Will hold a post/bench firmly.
Andy Moss
I’m having trouble visualizing this. Would you please elaborate? Screwed to what? Right angles to what? Each other? To the post?
I poured concrete and foam around various posts around my yard to compare. After hardening, I gave the poles a good shake back and forth. The foam loosens, the concrete doesn't budge.
Cool, are there pictures or a video of your findings?
Oh hell, I'm sticking with the concrete concept. Pour concrete, add water, done. This is just too much work and a lot of shit chemicals
Just pour pure cement in the whole and just add water? Any rocks also? Asking for my project
@@DanielMarcano911 no u have to pick up the heavy bag of cement pour water break ur back mixinh it well then pour it in a hole!
@Jeffrey Rigby Red bag,,pour into hole ,add water ,ta da!!!
Around here i dont even add water to the cement. Just put it in the hole and as long as the ground is wet enough or it rains it sets up just fine.
Probably easy to pull up. Once your pour concrete its almost impossible to pull up. I know because I just did it the other day. I spent about an hour on one pole. Had to move a pole the previous owners had in the yard.
Mess & hassle of mixing concrete?
It's called postcrete, empty the bag into a hole & pore in water.
Done.
..."pore in water"? Water does not have pores. You do. One pours water. No, really.
water goes in first you muppet.
Right on built over 100 wheelchair ramps in my career maybe same number of decks never premixed concrete water dump powder in hole pack and top with water done
Avoid mess of concrete...
uses plastic to avoid mess of sticky foam.
If you were in a desert, or somewhere difficult to find/use water, then yes, this is an interesting alternative to Postcrete.
@@Famous5s if you cant find water finding a pack of this is not going to be easier is it....
Very good technique It is impressive to see today's technologies.
You don't use foam OR concrete. You tamp crushed rock (typically 3/4-down) in the hole around the post. Using concrete or foam locks the moisture into the wooden post where it will rot out the post. The fence posts will last for years longer this way. I did mine 13 years ago using 6x6" p.t. wood posts set with tamped crushed rock. We get hard-freezes every winter up here (Canada) and our soil is red clay gumbo where I am. Fence and posts are still arrow-straight today - and not rotten like the collapsed fence ( c/w hunks of concrete with square holes through them) that I removed back when I originally bought my place!
Robert Garvey for the rest of us who don't live on clay, we gotta use something like concrete or foam.
i doubt wood would be arrow straight after all those years. it is just not in its nature. also you can wrap the bottom of the post to avoid moisture or even paint it. once concrete sets up moisture will not penetrate it but it will around crushed rock.
Maybe you're right. I bought my house in 2005 which was 1 year old at the time. All post in the ground WITH CONCRETE rotted and broke off at the concrete top in 2015. That's 11 years. I'm in the Bay area where it only rains 4 months out of the year and is dry the rest.
For all those here who claim concrete lasts for many decades, please explain that. The parts of the fence sitting on top of the retaining wall with brackets are just fine (no rot).
Bottom line: concrete draws water from the soil and the wood soaks it up ending up rotting away.
Using foam or concrete, wood rot will occur with the post being exposed to the top soil. I suggest using concrete formed above ground and angled so water will flow away from the post. May not look at nice but just search for videos of removing rotted fence post and you will not want to have to do that.
True
Thank you for this video, it saved me a lot of trouble and money.
Mike Holmes likes it so it must be good! Seriously, I am literally "on the fence" on using this.
F**k Holmes. He’s just a show man. Ask him if has a ticket in any trade. He has NO tickets
@@darrellsaturnbigfoot Holmes is cool, has great ideas but only if folks have bottomless pockets. Change a lightbulb....need the top bulb ever, replace the fixture for some energy compliance reason, the wire color of home is off so let's rewire the house, add a breaker, new switch . $1 fix now cost 20,000. LOL
Good stuff, I have seen it used and it does work!
The fence guys I have worked with around here (Northern California. No frost/freezing) Stand the post up plumb, fill the hole with dry fence post mix and tamp it real good. When they're all done framing, they go along and wet all the holes. I just replaced a fence done here that way in 1978. Some of the posts were "kinda" bad. Not all. Worst part was the fence boards mostly had rotted where they were attached to the 2X4 frame. These were "redwood" posts also and not the P.T. posts that are more widely used currently.
I poured river rock gravel in the bottom. Coated the post with tar before using this product. It's been 6 years and my fence is still standing strong. It's a lot less time consuming especially when you work 60 plus hours a week. Don't use those cardboard tubes. I used them on my first couple posts and had to later pack the ground with more dirt and gravel.
got to say it looks pretty legit
I used this to put in the bottom of some really big planters that I have in the back yard. Well, one planter got the foam and the other two I just filled with soil. Guess which ones are all but impossible to move??? lol. The foam one, is of course, pretty easy to slide around. So yeah not just about the cost to the wallet, think of your back. it was kind of spendy but I love the results. and it sets up very hard. I made sure I put drain holes through the foam to the weep holes in the pot while it was sitll curing,
That's a good idea!
Very nice fence you've built. Great video. I can't imagine that foam will last as long as concreted though. Maybe you can post a follow up video in 8 to 10 years :)
got that right
Use Quickset. It's just as easy as this foam, but way stronger!
using Quickset is illegal because it doesn't have enough required strength. I'm not sure how they measure it or whatever, but in the state i live the council doesn't allow it for commercial building projects
We are talking fence posts. Not a building foundation.
Utilities have been using foam for transmission poles for years now, it's only just being introduced for the homeowner. I like Sika products in general, good stuff, but they have always been expensive. You can buy the larger (not in a 2 part bag) Kits that will do 10 poles for about 8 bucks each, still more expensive than concrete..The only big benefit I can see for a homeowner is these set up really quick. Both are good for me
Our Someday Is Now ,Does foam help increase the electrical grounding ability of the utility poles better than concrete would ?
I am wondering if this is to save time and manpower, because when utility poles go down, it is often because of a hurricane or tornado, where both time and manpower are pushed to limits and come at a premium. I am sure it works or they probably wouldn't do it, but overall cost is their prime objective, and labor + transportation are the bulk of that. Also, since they buy their product in bulk, pay to transport it, etc. there are multiple ways this could simply be an overall cost cutting measure at that scale.
Now I know why my utility bills keep going up, up, up.
Don't have any idea why this matters, but for Fence Posts it's fine.
Just fill with dry concrete bury it and it will turn hard over time or just add water on top when finished
I've mixed cement with the backfill and packed it down. Works like a charm.
Hey man, don't start talking common sense. You might blow some ones mind...😂😂😂
CSX2586 Rail Rider Raby Yes, this is my approach too. In the absolute driest conditions...I did my fence in August (hottest part of summer) and we hadn't seen rain in weeks...the dry concrete in the hole worked just fine. Within 24 hrs the concrete was solid. Amazing how the powder can draw any moisture out of the surrounding ground and soil.
Exactly that's the way I would do concrete, the weight of concrete hold it just that much more
indylovelace, concrete will also draw moisture out of your skin so if you ever get it on you be sure and wash it off asap.
was working with a guy years ago and we were pouring a driveway. he told me of the time he first started messing with concrete and they were pouring concrete and he took off his shoes and waded in it like it was mud. he said after they were done his feet were all dry, cracked and bleeding and hurt for days afterwards.
Cool
ps, just use kitchen plastic wrap over posts bases (no need to find/mod plastic bottles)
It looked as though he used those for quick removal
I used that exact foam to fill the bulkheads of a small boat that I built. It is a closed cell foam and therefore water proof. Dont worry about the haters posting negative comments.
At 4:25 , Mr Worm running for his life~~~
It might even be a female worm. 🤣🤣🤣
How has this held up since last year.
Please come back and pin a comment on how this product works after 5 years.
Rebuilding a fence now that the posts were concreted in 13 years ago.
I live in North Texas. Our soil is black clay. It goes from totally saturated in the winter to dried out with three inch wide cracks in the summer.
I will try this product somewhere but from experience with other expanding foam products. I do not see this one holding up to well.
3.9 million views ...wow ...dude bet u never thought it would do that ...good Video ..forget all the know it alls ..it looks good to me and it works
I'm hearing that this foam shrinks in a short time "days or weeks "and the post become loose?
@@elizacathleen2916 Did you see my question mark?????? But thanks for calling me a liar.
@@bustinya2240 sorry I deleted the comment. I used the stuff for basement insulation. It’s fantastic. I hope it works for posts because I’m using it today. For my clothes line 🥺
There is no such thing as structural foam. I've had to replace posts that people have foamed b4. Do the job right. Use concrete. No use trying to re-invent the wheel
b4? BS..
so this foam slab i just poured will not work?
oh crap.
Naw he is just incompetent and lazy
@1:04 pushes dirt in hole...then says pull dirt away from hole. Also the bag says "post fix" not installation...I don't know this product so just wondering. I see a lot of the comments say pour a bag of concrete and water and that seems like a lot less work and far more durable.
So he knocks a little soil in the hole. So what? You took the time to specifically point out the exact time too. You, are an ass who likely never makes mistakes. Must be fun living remotely close to you.
Tried the product. Easy to use. Quick. No concrete dust everywhere. BUT I noticed after a couple days the post I used this on - fence post with fence attached - had moved. The foam
had compressed allowing the post to move. Fence had been held level while allowing foam to cure. None of the posts I used Quickcrete on have moved. This may work in some soils for posts with no load, but for me I’ll stick with concrete.
Very interesting alternative to concrete! Glad I saw this video, thanks.
Great video. Thanks for "posting".
Ha! How has this joke not been made already?!
😂
I would have been done with 2 posts already with concrete, hell,you already have the post level and straight, that’s the hard work.
He's just showing how it can be done another way. Concrete ain't the only method, and it sure as hell isn't twice as fast, its the same thing
That is the best hidden commercial ordered by that foam manufacturer to make you to pay double money for no reason.
Interesting. Been doing fences & deck's for decades. Never imagined you can use foam. Wonder what the long term stability is like. Is there any warrantee against deterioration or breakdown of the foam?
No!
Finally someone with a civil tongue. I also would like to know how the foam holds up long term. And, would it be suggested (no haters please) for chain link?
RUFFUS - "decks", not "deck's"
Why on Earth would you use an apostrophe?
Because this is not an English class?
Jason Jones it is warranty is for 50 years
Save yourself the $ 13 a bag , as a small carpentry contractor i have occasionally over the years been asked to install some fencing , i used to fill every hole with a bag of post set or redi mix and used this product once when it was supplied by homeowner until a friend of mine who is the manager for the landscaping division of a large farm store chain told me to just backfill with the soil you removed ,tamp the shit out of the soil with the flat end of digging bar and check for plumb as your filling the hole up and keep poles linearly straight with a string line.They only set posts in cement where a gate will be hung off of a post and go a little deeper /wider maybe with hole to prevent leaning or gate sag . Works extremely well. glad i listened to him! Besides when it rains your posts wont pop out of the ground since they are now like a fishing bobber. I had this problem. do not buy this product any one who endorses it is paid too
Your "solution" is harder and more expensive than the "problem".
The fuck you guys are talking about?
Anybody with experience in fence construction knows that all you need is sand and gravel to secure down fence posts.
Sand and gravel are good,I like to use broken up bricks and rubble rammed into the hole around the post using a large iron bar, it makes it very solid. The big benefit over using concrete is that it doesn't trap water around the post, it allows it to drain away making the post last longer. It works of course just as well with concrete posts.
Nothing is better than proper tamping.
Neat idea but the cost per post is a bit high. Quikrete has fence post specific mix that you dump into the hole with the post and add water. Quick, easy, and cost effective. Average cost per 60lb bag (which can fill two or more posts holes depending on depth) is $3.25-$5.47 at (my local) Lowe's while one bag of this foam averages $12.28-$14.98 per bag. Ease of use is similar but that foam (the unused portions/trimmings) is non biodegradable, neither is concrete but the amount left over in the bags of concrete is negligible and you can recycle the paper bags. That foam is a little trickier to recycle also. But this is just my thought on the idea.
One post hole (9" auger, 3 feet deep) takes 3 or 4 50lb. bags of concrete. There are many online concrete calculators that can show you this.
PatonHaus that is true for a large post hole, I am saying that for smaller jobs like chain link fencing, Pickett fencing, or small clotheslines bagged post mix would be more cost effective. 6' 8' and 10' privacy fences encounter far more force from wind and do need a larger concrete base (although I prefer 6" x 32" base for speeding things up a little) to withstand the side forces from the wind.
How well is this holding up today? I see it's been 2 years since you used the foam. Thanks!
his fence has fallen
I saw a reply from about a year ago and he said it was still holding up just fine...has that changed?
3 years now, all good.
PatonHaus, thanks for the reply!
I used to be a distributor of SIKA (a Swiss Company), we sold great products. I retired before this product came out, but I am sure it is fine. The important thing is to ensure you have enough wood underground so as to keep any momentum over the pole at minimum, That is, try to bury one third of the whole length of the post.
Great video man, seriously good job! I doubt I'll ever use foam, but I will continue to watch your videos! Very peaceful, easy going and comprehensive 👌🏼
Note: Do not use with vinyl fence posts. It will float the posts up out of the ground as it expands!! The vinyl posts don't have enough weight to counteract the lifting power of the foam.
I did and had no problem using it. Worked like it should.
Personally, I don't see how this is any easier than just using concrete. Interesting concept though, thanks for taking the time to make the video.
Wood Posts eventually Will Rot Above the cement, if used.
I prefer packing w-gravel or small stone.
will it hold if i use 10 foot post 3 in the ground
@@rickcarp5453 Yes that should hold. I've done it plenty of times :)
Exactly. As a general rule, try to avoid cement other than on things like gates. Drainage gravel works really well because it locks into itself. Start with a gravel a few inches below the bottom of the post. Stick the post in and get it where you want. Put in more gravel and tamp it. Cover up with maybe 6" of soil, tamp that, and you have a good-looking install that will last for ages.
I don't have any trouble with concrete, but wouldn't use this for the price. 6x as much, it better dig/level it's own posts!
Hahahahh nice :P
I have never use this product before but I have installed a few fences and I think anything can work really as long as you have a good Tamp on the dirt around the post.