My M18 Milwaukee 1/2 impact with a regular 19mm impact socket wouldn’t budge that bolt. I ordered a weighted 19 mm socket off Amazon and it was delivered the next day. 45 seconds of heat from a torch and the weighted socket and it came off like butter.
I was able to use the tool he showed by renting it for free at autozone then using a 25" breaker bar reaching from the top of the engine going down with a short impact socket (normal sockets will break or round out). It's one hell of a push but it works to break it loose. Keep in mind I was able to go from the top of the engine bay because I already removed many parts to do the timing belt and water pump PS: My 630 ft/lbs impact would not do it....
Nice video. Watched several as I need to do it on a 2007 accord that slings oil everywhere because this seal is done. Clear instruction, good method using the belt to stabilize the wheel then a impact to pop then nut out, genius frankly
The factory service manual for 07 Odyssey specifies 47 lb-ft plus 60° on the bolt. It doesn’t differentiate between new bolt or re-used bolt. It does specifically say not to use an impact to tighten, which makes me wonder how I’m going to apply that much torque in my driveway. There are 1,000 videos on getting that bolt off, but none that I’ve found on properly torquing it.
This is not ideal but to get you close you can put 2 markings on the bolt and the surrounding area to give you a sort of reference when putting it back on. Just don't mark the drive pulley if you are going to replace it. Thanks for watching please Like, Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
Thanks for the instructions. Fir future use younshould account for the extension in the torque specs. The longer the extension the more torque is needed. Only a few piunds difference yet still important.
I can't believe this job is as easy as it looks. I know the crank bolt is probably the toughest part - I've done that before when I did a timing belt job on my 2006 Ridgeline. I have the special tool to hold the crank pulley. I had my wife holding it ....with two towels over her head and I used a 1/2" x 24" extension on a regular 19mm socket, 1/2" HF breaker bar and 4' of 1" cheater pipe to break the bolt loose. It sounded like a gunshot in the garage when it broke loose! I have a 2008 CR-V that appears to be leaking in this area. Is this a common issue on these mid-2000's K-24 engines? Thanks for the video!
It seems like these crank bolts are a bit irregular. Some people can break them loose with a 1/2" impact and others need a long cheater bar. The one thing that I found out on my wife's 2005 Accord is that heat and penetrating oil are worthless. I used the crank holding tool and the weighted socket with my 3/4" Ingersoll Rand impact wrench AFTER the heat and penetrating oil with no luck. In the end, I used a 26" 3/4" drive breaker bar and a 12 ' piece of pipe. When it finally broke loose, there was absolutely no corrosion on the washer under the bolt head and no corrosion on the bolt threads. Since the torque spec that I found required the bolt to stretch, I bought a new bolt from the dealer and followed those instructions when tightening the bold after the repair.
Sorry for the late response, but yes unfortunately you have to remove the timing so its a bigger job than usual. Thanks for watching please Like and Subscribe if you haven't already
Until it is at least flush with the surface or look at the old one before you remove it to get an idea. Thanks for watching please Like, Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
This seal is in the timing belt area, correct? There is another seal of the same. but it is the *rear * main seal. The one in the video is the *front* main seal.
Inspect it to make sure it's not cross threaded and use some air to clean out the hole. If the threads are ok you may need to order a new bolt. Thanks for watching please Like, Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
That socket is about 4 timed heavier with a much thicker wall than a regular deep well socket, therefore when an impact gun hammers at it that weighted socket transfer more energy to the bolt. Imagine using a 4oz hammer vs a 1lb hammer to drive a nail in a piece of lumber, you would have to produce more blows which would require more energy but if you use the 1lb hammer then you use less energy but "IDK". I was trained for thus stuff. Lol. Thanks for watching please Like, Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
My M18 Milwaukee 1/2 impact with a regular 19mm impact socket wouldn’t budge that bolt. I ordered a weighted 19 mm socket off Amazon and it was delivered the next day. 45 seconds of heat from a torch and the weighted socket and it came off like butter.
Hells yeah brother love my heavy 19mil
Thanks for watching please Like, Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
Lisle 77080 gang checking in. The high-mass socket makes a HUGE difference.
I was able to use the tool he showed by renting it for free at autozone then using a 25" breaker bar reaching from the top of the engine going down with a short impact socket (normal sockets will break or round out). It's one hell of a push but it works to break it loose. Keep in mind I was able to go from the top of the engine bay because I already removed many parts to do the timing belt and water pump
PS: My 630 ft/lbs impact would not do it....
Yeah the heavy socket alone gets the job done quick💪 gotta love em
Nice video. Watched several as I need to do it on a 2007 accord that slings oil everywhere because this seal is done. Clear instruction, good method using the belt to stabilize the wheel then a impact to pop then nut out, genius frankly
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching please Like, Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
Very good. That bolt is tight in there. Needed a long breaker bar to get it loose.
Fantastic video great lighting and audio thank you .
@Bryon Slavin Thanks for watching please Like, Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
The factory service manual for 07 Odyssey specifies 47 lb-ft plus 60° on the bolt. It doesn’t differentiate between new bolt or re-used bolt. It does specifically say not to use an impact to tighten, which makes me wonder how I’m going to apply that much torque in my driveway. There are 1,000 videos on getting that bolt off, but none that I’ve found on properly torquing it.
This is not ideal but to get you close you can put 2 markings on the bolt and the surrounding area to give you a sort of reference when putting it back on. Just don't mark the drive pulley if you are going to replace it. Thanks for watching please Like, Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
Thanks for the instructions.
Fir future use younshould account for the extension in the torque specs. The longer the extension the more torque is needed. Only a few piunds difference yet still important.
Always learning with your #repair videos Will!
@Rudy Le'Plane 👍
I can't believe this job is as easy as it looks. I know the crank bolt is probably the toughest part - I've done that before when I did a timing belt job on my 2006 Ridgeline. I have the special tool to hold the crank pulley. I had my wife holding it ....with two towels over her head and I used a 1/2" x 24" extension on a regular 19mm socket, 1/2" HF breaker bar and 4' of 1" cheater pipe to break the bolt loose. It sounded like a gunshot in the garage when it broke loose!
I have a 2008 CR-V that appears to be leaking in this area. Is this a common issue on these mid-2000's K-24 engines?
Thanks for the video!
Yes pretty much. Thanks for watching please Like, Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
Any idea if the keyway goes through to the timing gear? Mine seems too short, and Im afraid to shear it off.
It goes through the crank pulley
It seems like these crank bolts are a bit irregular. Some people can break them loose with a 1/2" impact and others need a long cheater bar. The one thing that I found out on my wife's 2005 Accord is that heat and penetrating oil are worthless. I used the crank holding tool and the weighted socket with my 3/4" Ingersoll Rand impact wrench AFTER the heat and penetrating oil with no luck. In the end, I used a 26" 3/4" drive breaker bar and a 12 ' piece of pipe. When it finally broke loose, there was absolutely no corrosion on the washer under the bolt head and no corrosion on the bolt threads. Since the torque spec that I found required the bolt to stretch, I bought a new bolt from the dealer and followed those instructions when tightening the bold after the repair.
Thanks for watching please Like, Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
Becareful with applying heat, because it will cook the rubber in the Harmonic Balancer.
One step you missed, apply some grease on the new oil seal lip and pulley journal, this would prevent pre-mature wear. on any lip seal.
Thanks for watching please Like, Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
I removed this camshaft pulley but there is no seal behind that i have
2003 honda accord v6
Do I have to take timing belt off to reach it ?
Sorry for the late response, but yes unfortunately you have to remove the timing so its a bigger job than usual. Thanks for watching please Like and Subscribe if you haven't already
Very good video and detailed explanation, thanks I have to do on 2004 Honda Element.
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching please Like,Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
How do you know when the new seal is seated all the way in? Like how far is it supposed to go in?
Until it is at least flush with the surface or look at the old one before you remove it to get an idea. Thanks for watching please Like, Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
Did you have to use the o-ring that came with the new seal?
What o-ring?
Will this be the same for a 99 accord v6.?
Yes it should be the same procedure
What’s the part number for the seal? I’m not able to find it anywhere and I bought the wrong one 2 times already
I don't have the part number but the best way to get it is to order it from the dealer
Dang okay I order it from dealer but they gave me the wrong one
What impact gun was that?
This seal is in the timing belt area, correct? There is another seal of the same. but it is the *rear * main seal. The one in the video is the *front* main seal.
Correct. Thanks for watching please Like,Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
I removed the crank bolt without a problem but now I am having trouble putting it back in it will not go back in can you help me with this problem
Inspect it to make sure it's not cross threaded and use some air to clean out the hole. If the threads are ok you may need to order a new bolt. Thanks for watching please Like, Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
Hello will be attempting this repair on my 08 Honda CRV EX / 4WD
Will it be pretty similar to the way you did the repair on this Accord?
Yes if it's front wheel drive it is similar. Thanks for watching please Like, Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
Should I drain out the oil first before removing the seal?
No you don't have to because most of the oil is in the pan at the bottom. Thanks for watching please Like, Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
This is the front main seal correct??
Yep, that's right, the front main seal.
Torque specs on bolt please??
At least 155ft lbs but check online to be sure. Thanks for watching please Like, Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
181ft lbs
Thanks for the video
No problem! Thanks for watching please Like, Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
Is it a v6 or v4
4cl. Thanks for watching please Like, Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽 excellent
Thank you! Cheers! Thanks for watching please Like, Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
Or you put a 19mm on there and wedge it in there and get in the car and turn it over quick
You can do that but I'm not responsible for broken fingers lol. Thanks for watching please Like, Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
Damn that’s the easiest job ever.
It's pretty easy. Thanks for watching please Like, Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
There's a scientific explanation but I'm not gonna get into that ( other words for idk the explanation ) Good work tho as a mechanic
That socket is about 4 timed heavier with a much thicker wall than a regular deep well socket, therefore when an impact gun hammers at it that weighted socket transfer more energy to the bolt. Imagine using a 4oz hammer vs a 1lb hammer to drive a nail in a piece of lumber, you would have to produce more blows which would require more energy but if you use the 1lb hammer then you use less energy but "IDK". I was trained for thus stuff. Lol. Thanks for watching please Like, Share and Subscribe if you haven't already
@@BIGWILLSCARCARE lol couldve just said physics, this dude dont deserve full explaination. bought the tool for 20$ on amazon.
@@droptopp3479you are right
I got a 06 accord v6 is the the same for a v6 not sure what engine u working on
It should be the same procedure, but I don't remember what engine I was working on for that video.