The Single Breasted Suit: "Know your Suits" Series (Part 1)
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- In this new series of episodes, Hugo will take you on a guided tour of the main styles of suits and jackets for gentlemen. In this first episode he focuses on the single-breasted suit, and explains how to progress step by step on the "Sartorial Ladder", from conservative styles to more daring suits.
To support the show, please visit our Patreon page: Patreon.com/sartorialtalks
Links from the show :
Cifonelli bespoke Paris: cifonelli.com
Enzo Custom USA: enzocustom.com
NH Sartoria Milano: www.nhsartoria.it
Brutal honesty, no fluff, and a good amount of information in 17 minutes. I loved it so much it made my day better. can you do one on trousers sometime please?
Thank you my friend for your words of encouragement! And yes we have an episode on trousers planned in April. Cheers, Hugo
When Hugo speaks, time flies.
Thank you PN for your kind words. All my best wishes, Hugo
That’s right, especially when I do my ironing
Last time I was this early, top hats were still a sign of status.
Cheers Xan! Hugo
I dare you to go outside with a top hat not signalling status :D
"it is absolutely useless, and that's why we adore it!" not only strict and "dusty" rules, but also a consistent way of looking at this beautiful topic: a great job, as always.
Thank you Marco! I think the so-called "useless" things are so important to us, human beings. All my best, Hugo
I came for a lesson about jackets, I got a lesson about life, beauty and spirit. Loved it!
I love the simple way Hugo explains function and fashion going hand in hand. Thank you!
You are very welcome my friend! Hugo
It's lovely to see the passion in these weird times. I love my waistcoats and you saying to look at single buttons jackets, is a mini revolution to me. Never thought about it but now I'm dreaming. Thank you.
Yes Alexander, a one button jacket above a beautiful vest is a great option (and a game changer actually). All my best, Hugo
The blazer Hugo’s wearing in this video is truly magnificent. Absolutely beautiful.
Love the way he speak, he speaks elegantly like his dress do❤️❤️
Hugo has exceptional taste! I pray for a wardrobe like yours one day, good sir
Thank you my friend. And I do hope your prayers will be answered! Hugo
This is the best explanation for a 3-roll-2 I've ever heard.
Oh thank you Aaron! Hugo
I encourage all my customers to Sartorial Talks. Beautifully explained and of course, Hugo. That is to say, Hugo is the first and last word for all things sartorial.
Thank you David for your kind words. And even if I'm surely not the first and last word in this area, I accept your compliment as we are doing our best everyday to provide interesting and useful content. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Hugo and Sonya, you are both inspirations. I (and I am sure others ) appreciate your efforts.
Dear Hugo, thank you for sharing you nice collection of suits. I also really like your navy jacket.
Greetings,
john & Corrine
Thank you John, I hope all is going well for you and Corrine! Cheers, Hugo
I absolutely agree that the power of beauty is underrated in the modern day. Beauty and love make life worth living. Without them, we are mere robots.
Wise words my friend. Best, Hugo
Thank you Hugo for once again pointing out the meaning of beauty.
With joy! All the best, Hugo
Other jacket design options I learned about while doing research:
- lapel style option: notched, peak, shawl ( like on tuxedos)
- lapel width: slim, standard, wide
- lapel pin button hole: working, decorative, none
- ticket pocket: yes, no
- ticket pocket style: flapped, piped
- pocket style: none, straight or slanted, flapped or piped
- sleeve button count: 0-4
- sleeve button holes: with or without
- back vent: double/side, single/center, none
- canvassing: none, fused, half, full
- pick stitching: yes or no
- breast pocket: none, patch, patch x 2
So, as one can see, and Hugo points out, there are many ways to customize even just the jacket.
As a new suit fanatic, thank you for the knowledge you share in these episodes
You are very welcome my friend. All my best, Hugo
The french sartorial philosopher. I love it.
I like this video style much more than podcasts
Thanks Maxim. We will keep both formats as the "podcast" set-up is better for more "profound" topics. Cheers, Hugo & Sonya
What can one say Mr. Jacomet! You are a treasure and a bastion of elegance and refinement. We are lucky to have you and Sonya helping us along the way on our sartorial journeys. Much respect from Saudi Arabia.
Abdulaziz
Dear Abdulaziz, many thanks for your very kind words. They mean a lot to us. Hugo & Sonya
I could listen to Hugo talk for hours, his voice is so relaxing. I have a couple of single-breasted suits I haven't worn in over a year because of lockdowns in the UK and I'll be looking for any excuse to dress up once we can go out again.
Thank you for your kind words Tom. And yes, let's dress up again as soon as possible! Hugo
Hugo is so correct! Beauty and art are important.
I believe looking good helps others feel better themselves. Personally, I am not tall , dark, and handsome but, at least I can dress well. Not only for myself but for the subtle pleasure of others.
Beautiful words William. Cheers, Hugo
This is the first video in months for me. I need to get back into the ST groove to get away from all the nonsense. I love you two.
Welcome back to the ST "groove" my friend! Hugo
Excellent video, Hugo! I loved the notion of seeing clothing as something higher than "dressing to impress" and how it truly has an effect of one's state of mind and in the way to perceive the world. Also the idea of having only one button on the jacket seems like the classiest kind of inside joke I could have with myself.
Thanks Fernando for your nice comment (not sure I understand the inside joke, but it's maybe because i'm just French 😊). Cheers, Hugo
Thanks, Hugo, for another excellent ST episode. Your passion and excitement for fashion are very apparent and much appreciated. Looking forward to the rest of the series.
Thank you very much John for your kind words of appreciation. Cheers, Hugo
Thanks Hugo! Great summary, as always. Favourite quote from this video: "We don't dress to impress". Truer words rarely spoken! Oh, and I love your point about wearing lapel pins is where we differ from animals.
Yes Robert, we don't dress only to impress. Doing so is missing the greatness and the pleasure of the Sartorial life. Cheers, Hugo
I loved how you called your suit a good comrade. Very poetic. 👍🙂
😂😁 He is a good comrade for sure! Hugo
I just came across this pulchritudinous channel, like yesterday, and I must say Hugo, you are one of the finest gentlemen I've ever met on this platform, I just loved every bit of your content. Although I'm just a teenager student from India, I love watching your videos from tip to toe. I think your videos impart amazing knowledge and value to all of your viewers, may GOD bless you man.
Hugo and Sonya, that line up of suits at the background makes me think that you can probably convert a room or two in your house as a dedicated sartorial museum of sorts! Very nice!
😂 that's true! Cheers Raphael! Hugo
Yes Hugo and Sonya, thank you for taking your time to produce Sartorial Talks. Learning about the bespoke world and doing my own research on the world of tailoring has been an enlightening experience and I thank you.
You are very welcome Ian! Hugo & Sonya
Friendly and sensitive as always! Expressed in very pleasant and correct English
Brooks Brothers has used the three roll two. I pray we don’t go back to 1970s wide lapels and bell bottoms. Thank you for your perspective on these suits. Very informative and personal.
I don't think we will go back exactly to the seventies (especially for the trousers), but some of my own lapels are sometimes reminiscent of the 70's 😅😱. Cheers, Hugo
Great thanks Hugo, i am slowing starting to see all the details, i think i like the French style the best, your double breasted jacket is excellent. Love your point about dressing for the social good, aesthetically, an environment of beauty.
Many thanks Allan! Take care, Hugo
This video actually shows everybody that you can wear a total different jacket / suit depending on one specific detail that will make a huge difference (something we would hardly notice) which is great. As far as I'm concerned, make the lapels wider has had an enormous impact. I couldn't believe the way I look with 2 more cm. Great video that explains lots of things ! Cheers.
Thank you so much David for your contribution. And yes, 2 cm on a lapel can change the whole style and help you reach new heights in elegance. All my best! Hugo
A well cut, traditional, two button jacket will actually have a cutaway after the top button, so if you do try and button the bottom button it will pull the jacket out of shape and ruin the lines of the jacket. A jacket that is designed to have both or all three buttons closed is called a paddock jacket and the cutaway begins after the bottom button. Legend has it it first started when King Henry got too plump to button the bottom button of his riding jacket and left it unbuttoned and then everyone else followed suit (pun intended)
Basic but very enjoyable. Love the approach and the talk of joy and beauty.
Dear friend, it is meant to be basic. But sometimes coming back to the fundamentals is refreshing! All my best, Hugo
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experiences passionately, which is a great pleasure to watch 🙋♂️❤️
Mister Hugo is the Best dressed Man on UA-cam!
Hugo massive respect about your thought...about what make us difference from the animals...you are so right
THESE IS NOT NEGOTIABLE...YOURS SHOES HAS TO BE IMPECCABLE
I agree. Cheers my friend, Hugo
Thank you SO much for this Hugo!!
You are very welcome Timothy! All my best, Hugo
Fantastic Topics and fashion
Merci Derrick! Hugo
I live vicariously through Hugo.
Loved this. I would like to see you continue the series on matching ties to suits as well.
Good morning Randall. Yes, there will be an episode on how to match patterns (which will include ties of course). All my best, Hugo
I love your sentiments on beauty so much and your presentation. There’s something so authentic, passionate and pure about your love for it, I actually applauded when you said that. This is so refreshing for me!
A great educational presentation. Merci.
Merci Ross! Hugo
Beautiful interpretation once again, thank you Hugo! This deffinetly solids the knowledge of suit jackets and gives confidence in buying and wearing them. Waiting for part 2! Best regards from Finland!
Thank you for your kind words Santtu, All our best from France! Hugo
My girldriend and I love your videos. Thanks to you and Sonia, we have grown to like and enjoy menswear.
That's a very nice message to read! Cheers, Hugo
I love your description of the 3-roll-2 jacket and why it exists.
The quest for a beautifull outfit, combined with true gentlemanness would be the personal contribution to the beauty of the world all around
Extremely well said Zakaria! Hugo
Hugo,this must be one of my favourite videos you have done.Bravo! What you said about beauty is what I try to live by every day.Keep up the great work!
Many thanks Tomaz! All my best, Hugo
Great inspiring video, as always! I really like the style of the two-roll-three button jacket. I personally think it looks best with a heavier fabric like flannel (I own a flannel suit, that has this sort of buttoning on the jacket, but instead with a notch I went with a peak lapel and what can I say it is one of my favourite pieces to wear, even as a separate). Thank you for this great content! Stay safe!
Many thanks Joe for sharing your experience. Stay safe as well! Cheers, Hugo
What a sumptuous tie, j'adore.
Thank you Kirane, one more time this tie is from our friends at The Urban Ties (Dan Costache). Cheers, Hugo
Always a pleasure watching your videos Hugo I always learn something new. Thank you 🙏🏾
I love the new series
Thank you Ron! Hugo
Absolutely top stuff, thanks a lot Hugo.
Us younger lads really need the knowledge about this "lost art" of suits.
I kinda prefer such videos over the podcast :)
Dear Sean, it's a different format. We like (and will produce) both. Cheers, Hugo
Another excellent video! Love the discussion format but there is certainly good things to be said about the simple and elegant presentation of pure information.
Dear Brian, you probably have noticed we are now mixing different formats. I think it's the good balance for this channel. All my best, Hugo
I can’t wait for the new podcast! I’ve listened to every episode multiple times 😅
We are recording podcasts this week my friend. Stay tuned! Hugo
wearing a well-crafted suit, I would argue is not at best about impressing someone, but a function of self-care
I agree William. Cheers, Hugo
Double breasted is always best! Thanks for changing the "Shop at Walmart in Sleepwear" Revolution!
Dear Dan, I don't know if I managed to change this (I would love too), but the sartorial movement is slowly developing for sure. All my best, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Just like yourself, we all have great impacts on our words and actions. Many have such HUUUUGE impacts and they are not even aware of it. Keep sharing your passion; it does have a positive effect on people and they way they enjoy life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness.
Pure gold. Thank you Hugo!
Dear brother Hugo
I love your spirit and love your show!!!!
God bless you!!!!!
Pastor tc
Thank you so much. God bless you too. Hugo
Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. I think this is your best episode so far.
Grazie Mauro! Hugo
When I got my first MTM suit I have to say I was very excited by the process. I wish I had seen this video before I got my suit made.
Your message means a lot and we're glad you think it's helpful. Hope you are enjoying your first custom suit !
Hugo & Sonya
Hugo the philosopher of the clothes :) All five jackets are beautiful but the sport jacket is very nice. Cheers!
Thank you Davide, take care, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you Hugo, Greetings to Sonya from me. Ciao!
Good evening Hugo and Sonya I hope you are both keeping safe and well, firstly may I just say it is always a pleasure to receive a notification for new content from your channel, secondly Hugo I must commend you on some absolutely stunning pieces/jackets and thirdly thank you so much to you both for your commitment to releasing such valuable content which in riches all of our lives, kind regards your friend Ryan..
Thank you Ryan for your kindness. Stay well my friend, Hugo (and Sonya)
Wonderful video Hugo, your advice regarding the single button was especially informative. I had not really considered a single button outside formal wear, but as part of a three piece suit it seems very stylish and a logical choice. For my next three piece I will definitely go with peaked lapels and a single button.
Bravo! Keen passion and knowledge. Thank you Hugo (and Sonya).
Tony
You are welcome Tony! Hugo & Sonya
Once again a great video! I think this can be a great way to introduce someone who has shown interest in suits. I will keep a link of this video for such occasion.
That's a good idea Tokiomi! All my best, Hugo
Your approach to this topic is masterful. Can't wait for the rest of the series.
Thank you J. All my best, Hugo
Thanks again for your knowlegde and wisdom.
It helps me a lot to change my attitude towards the why and how I should dress, and to adress life in general.
Alors,
Merci et à bientôt
Groetjes uit Amsterdam
Heel erg bedankt voor je vriendelijke woorden, beste Arent! Cheers, Hugo
I bought a lot of suits and sport coats right before quarantine, picked up 42 brooks brothers ties secondhand. I can’t wait to be able to wear them outside. My next pickup will be either double breasted with wide lapels or some spectators.
42 ties ? Wow, that's a lot in one catch! As for the Spectators, you should check our ongoing collaboration with TLB in Mallorca on Parisian Gentleman. Cheers! Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS a lot of madder silk ties in the lot, lightly used and really fantastic it brought the cost down to about $2 a tie.
I know I’m getting the museum calf spectators!
Hope all is well!
@@macbruce7562 Excellent choice my friend. Don't hesitate to write to Toni at TLB for any advice concerning size and width. Cheers, Hugo
I'm a little off topic, but in these last few videos, Hugo is looking leaner in the waist, with a more youthful and defined jawline. Or maybe I'm just seeing things. Thank you....and by the way, I really love the suit and tie in today's video..., particularly the tie. Cheers.
Dear Anthony, I did loose weight recently (approx 12 lbs), so your impression is correct. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Ahh..haaa, I thought so. Cheers!
I liked the grey jacket the most.
May god have mercy on whoever tries to get between Hugo and his super wide jacket lapels! 😄 Great video
😂 you're right my friend! Hugo
It's my meditation, see this amazing and relaxing channel. Thank you and congratulations from Portugal.
Great explanation of single-button jackets
Great, thany you Mr Hugo and I'm happy to be a patreon.
Thank you very much Antonio for your support! Hugo
Exciting Hugo! Watching as I comment! :)
Thank you Nikolas! Cheers, Hugo
Great video, it's really helpful to see the side by side comparisons between the differences, most youtube videos (whether the subject is shoes, guitars, anything "teaching") do not have the comparisons, and therefore they are harder to understand.
With a MTM service in a company which offers only online orders, it's really hard to get good results the first time. I tried shirts from TailorStore, and the result was worse than off the rack shirts for the first 2 shirts produced (although I took my measurements several times to be sure with the help of another person; and that shirts aren't the hardest clothing item to produce with a good fit). Their customer service was great however, and they allowed me to re-order another shirt for free twice. But I think that fittings and measurement sessions in-store are definitely required to get a good fit with MTM services in a decent amount of tries (and time).
The skills of a tailor cannot be replaced just with automatic computations based on a few home-made measurements!
I couldn't agree more for the tailors (as you know I'm a die-hard bespoke customer). However, some MTM salons have made tremendous progresses and are delivering very decent quality. It will never be like true bespoke in-person with several fittings at your tailor, but it can help many climbing the sartorial ladder. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS I didn't have the chance to have an in-store MTM experience yet, but I think that it's way better than an online-only process.
Thanks you Hugo for sharing your experience and knowledge with us!
Hugo, I just discovered your channel and I'm amazed by your passion. I'm Italian and I share the same enthusiasm for fashion and style. Now that most workplaces are switching to casual wear it's becoming harder to leave the house without someone asking "Are you going to a wedding?". But I don't mind that, in fact I think that on the flipside we are also entering an era where, precisely because you don't have to just "dress for work", dressing well is becoming even more so than ever before, a form of expression. Not to "dress to impress", but because like you said, if you appreciate beautiful things in life dressing well can be just another aspect of that (although of course I'm not saying that if you dress casual you don't appreciate beautiful things!).
Keep up the amazing work!
dear Monsieur Jacomet, besides making the wearer feel good and free, I think the 3/2 also creates a bit more roll to the lapel roll due to the button and buttonhole, and yes I love it!!
I hear you Scott. All my best, Hugo
Regarding dressing to impress.
I've come to think of it like singing. You can pick any of the world's greatest singers and I guarantee they sing when you aren't there. Because that's what they take joy in.
That's why people do karaoke, because the enjoy the expression.
Our sartorial sense should be the same.
A singer may sing as their job, but their passion always shows through.
Dear Hugo, great job as always. Thank you! I have a 3 roll 2 Harris Tweed jacket and enjoy wearing it in the winter over cardigan sweater. I noticed that you didn’t address pocket flaps, sleeve buttons or vents. Do you plan to do that in a later video? Also, you began to address proportions. Do you plan to cover that topic at a later date? Thanks again!
Dear Mike, we recorded a special episode last week that focuses only on pockets. Stay tuned! Hugo
Excellent ladder style ))))), very enjoyable as usual, i loved the pink jacket , and your double breasted jacket is outstanding my dear Hugo, Thanks for all your effort and passion. Love to you from Cairo.
Thank you dear Nader. All our best, Hugo & Sonya
love that tie
wow even this lesson was overwhelming Hahaha,, love you guys stay safe
I hope it was not too overwhelming Afsana! Cheers, Hugo
A wonderful journey - thank you. I agree that beauty is highly underrated. And often misunderstood.
I'm really enjoying your expertise on mens sartorial style and your presentation skills in which you don't talk "down to the viewer".
If you couldn't afford bespoke which pret a porter brands would you wear?
Good morning, I would say Pini Parma, Boggi Milano and Spier and Mackay (if you are on a budget) Cheers, Hugo
I think that 3 button jacket is kinda functional.. i live mostly in Canada, Montreal & also Southern Greece, Island of Crete..
many times in Autumn season temperature will be around 15 deg cel with not too much wind.. So usually i will wear a wool suit with a 3/4 long wool over-coat..
Brrrr so many times by late afternoon a very strong wind will start blowing & the temperature will drop another 5 deg..
So all the wind just blows down my chest & it just gets so cold, so to be able to have a 3rd button just to close the chest abit more i think is very functional..
You're actually right my friend. The Neapolitan gentleman never button it because it's never really cold in Napoli. That's why we speak of a hidden and useless button. But it actually can be buttoned. Cheers, Hugo
That suit jacket flatters your shape so well. Such a beautiful hourglass shape, armscye, and buttoning point. I would love a jacket that flatters me like that jacket does you.
Dear friend, thank you for your kind words. I have a great tailor for sure. Hugo
Superb informative video.Thank you
Welcome and thanks for watching ! Hugo
Greetings, Hugo & Sonya. I finally, have the means to get my first MTM Suit. I don't have the means to travel to a shop, so I will have to do it online. There is a wonderful local Tailor just around the corner from my house, so I can get properly measured. I'm going with Pini Parma for the MTM Suit. I'm so nervous lol. Cheers! from Ohio.
Congratulations my friend. I hope you'll enjoy it. Best, Hugo
I just love watching and learning. I wish I could visit you one day and choose two suits for me together with you.
Hugo, I like the new style of video. Great angles and proportions to the shots. Also I'll have you know you converted me to a double breasted man. However after seeing your three piece suit in the light grey houndstooth from cifonelli, It inspired me to begin working on a light grey sharkskin three piece suit with double breasted waistcoat. ( My first three piece) Thank you for all the great inspiration and keep up the good work! Looking forward to the next video, Cheers!
Many thanks Joey for your kind words and congratulations for you DB's. And yes a three piece with a db vest is also a great option. Enjoy! Cheers, Hugo
Merci Hugo...excellent discussion again...I continue to learn from you. Perhaps in an upcoming episode you can also discuss sleeve buttons and sleeve length. I know most tailors recommend showing one half inch of sleeve, but I like to show a little more than this. Just my preference. Looking forward to the next video. Steven
Dear Steven, yes we will address all the details of the jacket in this ongoing series. By the way I also like to show a little bit more of my shirts too. Cheers, Hugo
More..please..maestro...👏👏👏
That passion .....
Thanks Johny! Cheers, Hugo
I adore jackets with rolls and only wear 3-button ones. If it is not, I commission a 3 rd button.
Thanks Pinky! Hugo