Put a blank key in there to raise all the pins. It'll make it so you drill through all of them at once. If you're accurate you can use a 1/8 bit and use the key to move control arm. Happy drillin!
@@2815JuanI've had to drill one out recently. It will be if you're using a standard Best blank. You will want to bend the top of the bow over, or cut it clean off so that it's not in the way for the drilling process. It also makes it easy at the end, as once you've drilled to the shear line, you don't have to clean out any debris. It's ready to spin the control lug.
Great video, my boss showed me a different way and your way seems to work much better for me. She would drill slightly lower and pull face plate off and never clean debris but could always make that work like it was nothing.
At the beginning, you say to measure the depth of the core before drilling, so as not to drill too far. How do you measure the core before it is removed?
Careful about putting a screw in there that is very big. It will distort the core and cause it to expand against the housing and make it a real bear to get out. Same actually goes for pressing really hard with a big drill bit like the one he's using in this video. Best to use a 3/16" imho. If you drill straight then you can turn with a small screwdriver, no need for woodscrew. If you need woodscrew, you maybe want to use small diameter or drill a pilot hole.
Use a flat blade screw driver just inside the lip of the drilled hole to pry the front cover off the core. Then you can access the locking cam and clean out the channel the locking cam needs to move into.
Compressed air will blow the debris in and around the lock as you aren't drilling the whole way through to the other side. Could be problematic once the pins are removed as the debris could stop you from turning the cylinder
He said barrels, referring to the driver pins. Chamber is the opening that each pin stack is in. These are standard SFIC pins, so technically, not barrels, which are security pins for regular size locks. But calling them barrels (because of shape)is more common than referring to pins as chambers (where pins are located)
@@Sl0oMo0-c8z i’ll have to get back with you on that pretty familiar with this stuff but always willing to learn that just doesn’t sound familiar. Oh well at 65. What do you know not much when it boils right down to it? There’s so many different avenues. have a great evening. Thanks for the info. I’ll have to duck tape my brain back in ha ha ha ha✌🏻🧐☃️✌️🙈👍🔑🧢🔐🗝️
Ad a veteran locksmith of 39 years as well as an instructor in two different schools I am horrified by the ignorance and just plain wrong of videos like this.
@@kylekelly1215 5/32" drill bit right at the point of the figure 8 takes out the retaining bar, you shear off the the retaining bar so when you pull the core, you can decode the pins if needed.
Put a blank key in there to raise all the pins. It'll make it so you drill through all of them at once. If you're accurate you can use a 1/8 bit and use the key to move control arm. Happy drillin!
I’m pretty sure the bow of the key will be in the way to drill straight in
@@2815JuanI've had to drill one out recently. It will be if you're using a standard Best blank. You will want to bend the top of the bow over, or cut it clean off so that it's not in the way for the drilling process. It also makes it easy at the end, as once you've drilled to the shear line, you don't have to clean out any debris. It's ready to spin the control lug.
Great video, my boss showed me a different way and your way seems to work much better for me. She would drill slightly lower and pull face plate off and never clean debris but could always make that work like it was nothing.
I tried this and it worked great video. I had to use a bigger drill bit, made things a little easier!
Hey what is flixzone? Is that a movie app
At the beginning, you say to measure the depth of the core before drilling, so as not to drill too far. How do you measure the core before it is removed?
You keep a separate core in your inventory
Assuming you've got a key (doesn't have to be a working key) you can also measure how deep the key will insert into the cylinder.
Good video. The screw at the end is a great idea. What size bit ?
Careful about putting a screw in there that is very big. It will distort the core and cause it to expand against the housing and make it a real bear to get out. Same actually goes for pressing really hard with a big drill bit like the one he's using in this video. Best to use a 3/16" imho. If you drill straight then you can turn with a small screwdriver, no need for woodscrew. If you need woodscrew, you maybe want to use small diameter or drill a pilot hole.
Use a flat blade screw driver just inside the lip of the drilled hole to pry the front cover off the core. Then you can access the locking cam and clean out the channel the locking cam needs to move into.
Another question: all of the vids I have watched show the use of a 90 degree pick to remove debris. Why not use compressed air?
Compressed air will blow the debris in and around the lock as you aren't drilling the whole way through to the other side. Could be problematic once the pins are removed as the debris could stop you from turning the cylinder
Well put together!
Thank you for your feedback!
Wuao! Excellent💪🏻
This helped. Thanks!
they’re called Chambers ha ha😂 I don’t know why I’m bringing this up. I guess I’m a brat.
He said barrels, referring to the driver pins. Chamber is the opening that each pin stack is in. These are standard SFIC pins, so technically, not barrels, which are security pins for regular size locks. But calling them barrels (because of shape)is more common than referring to pins as chambers (where pins are located)
@ sorry to bring that up. I think I’m a brat Sometimes.
beautiful job you really did I love the video don’t you?
@doorandlocktips it's all good. People use a mix of terminology when it comes to locks or anything in general really.
@@Sl0oMo0-c8z i’ll have to get back with you on that pretty familiar with this stuff but always willing to learn that just doesn’t sound familiar. Oh well at 65. What do you know not much when it boils right down to it? There’s so many different avenues. have a great evening. Thanks for the info. I’ll have to duck tape my brain back in ha ha ha ha✌🏻🧐☃️✌️🙈👍🔑🧢🔐🗝️
Thanks for guidance
Ty for your time broh
Great video! What size is that drill bit?
Thanks Greg. I used 5/16 bit.
Does this work if the lock has been locked from a failed pick?
Very nice , thank you. !
Why not just vacuum it out ?
Just pick it to control
I hate to see a lock butchered like that.
Drill out a dead lock
Ad a veteran locksmith of 39 years as well as an instructor in two different schools I am horrified by the ignorance and just plain wrong of videos like this.
How would you go about doing it?
@@kylekelly1215 5/32" drill bit right at the point of the figure 8 takes out the retaining bar, you shear off the the retaining bar so when you pull the core, you can decode the pins if needed.
You really beat up the rim cylinder removing the core.
Hack
Totally!
100% hack..