Відео

How would you go about doing it?

@@kylekelly1215 5/32" drill bit right at the point of the figure 8 takes out the retaining bar, you shear off the the retaining bar so when you pull the core, you can decode the pins if needed.

Careful about putting a screw in there that is very big. It will distort the core and cause it to expand against the housing and make it a real bear to get out. Same actually goes for pressing really hard with a big drill bit like the one he's using in this video. Best to use a 3/16" imho. If you drill straight then you can turn with a small screwdriver, no need for woodscrew. If you need woodscrew, you maybe want to use small diameter or drill a pilot hole.

He said barrels, referring to the driver pins. Chamber is the opening that each pin stack is in. These are standard SFIC pins, so technically, not barrels, which are security pins for regular size locks. But calling them barrels (because of shape)is more common than referring to pins as chambers (where pins are located)

@ sorry to bring that up. I think I’m a brat Sometimes. beautiful job you really did I love the video don’t you?

@doorandlocktips it's all good. People use a mix of terminology when it comes to locks or anything in general really.

@@Sl0oMo0-c8z i’ll have to get back with you on that pretty familiar with this stuff but always willing to learn that just doesn’t sound familiar. Oh well at 65. What do you know not much when it boils right down to it? There’s so many different avenues. have a great evening. Thanks for the info. I’ll have to duck tape my brain back in ha ha ha ha✌🏻🧐☃️✌️🙈👍🔑🧢🔐🗝️

Another comment answered this already, before you even asked, but I'll reiterate it. In an A2 system all the pins in a chamber (the pin stack) add up to 23. The distance between the change key shear line and the control key shear line is 10. 23 minus 10 = the magic number 13. Why does 13 mean anything special? The pin stack always adds up to 23 (on an A2 system) and the distance between the two shear lines is fixed at 10 so only the bottom and top pins will vary to add up to the necessary 23. If we have bottom pins that match our control key then what remains is the top pin which equals 23 - 10 - bottom pin/control key = top pin i.e. 13 - control key = top pin or for our purposes 13 - top pin = control key. The caveat to all of this is the requirement that the lock was properly pinned up by the book to A2 specifications. If someone chose random top pins, the lock can still work but this technique of measuring only the top pin to determine the control key will not work. In such a rare and unlikely case, you would have to measure the entire pin stack and use the formula: (control key cut + 10) - plug total = build-up pin. Plug total being the sum of bottom pins and master pins in a chamber.

No it can’t be change not fix change

@@infinity157stis there a lock that can be fixed to a regular lock? So storeroom lock some times and open during other

I’m pretty sure the bow of the key will be in the way to drill straight in

​@@2815JuanI've had to drill one out recently. It will be if you're using a standard Best blank. You will want to bend the top of the bow over, or cut it clean off so that it's not in the way for the drilling process. It also makes it easy at the end, as once you've drilled to the shear line, you don't have to clean out any debris. It's ready to spin the control lug.

It is due to the distance from the cap to the control parting line and for the length of the spring. The total stack in A2 is 23, and the distance between the parting lines is 10, so 23-10=13, which is what is left after the bottom pins, master pins, and buildup pins get the chamber up to the control parting line.

Compressed air will blow the debris in and around the lock as you aren't drilling the whole way through to the other side. Could be problematic once the pins are removed as the debris could stop you from turning the cylinder

You keep a separate core in your inventory

Assuming you've got a key (doesn't have to be a working key) you can also measure how deep the key will insert into the cylinder.

Then it is not an A2 system or the lock is not a BEST style. In an SFIC with A2 numbering, the length of the spring and the distance from the control parting line to the cap are fixed dimensions that make the longest top pin that reliably works a 13. Longer pins are only used for buildup.

That’s what I would like to know as well.

This is for if you pick the core out of the lock/housing, I had to pick one out then I reverse engineered a core key so I can reuse the housings. Have a keying block, a sfic kit, key cutter, and the wall of key blanks

It is possible to remove the core from some locksets when the door is already unlocked by disassembling the lockset from the door. The only reason to have to decode the control key is when taking over a set of locks and the paperwork is not available from the previous locksmith. Decoding cores is not a primarily technique for entry, although picking an SFIC core to control is not a huge secret.

​@@kenchiltonI recently took over a set of locks and although most of the paperwork is available, not all of it is. So far I have found 3 different controls and am aware of a 4th. I've only had to drill out one lock so far, but will probably have to drill out a lot more before I'm done. Hoping to minimize that, so I'm considering learning to rake & pick.

I know it's pretty randomly asking but do anyone know a good place to watch newly released movies online ?

@Jesiah Tyson Lately I have been using Flixzone. Just search on google for it :)

@Reese Clyde yea, I have been using FlixZone for months myself :)

@Reese Clyde Thank you, I signed up and it seems to work :D I appreciate it!!

@Jesiah Tyson no problem :)