Explainer | Plastic Model Cements |
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- Early exclusive for Email Subscribers
BJ discusses the various types of plastic cements available and how each works.
There are three general types of cement; thick tube glue, liquid medium cement, and liquid thin cement.
Within the liquid thin cement there are sub-types; thin (or also known as extra thin), thin quick set, and limone (low odor citrus base).
Each type has it's place and often work well in combination with each other.
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I appreciate the thorough discussion, compare+contrast, and application of each cement. Big help! Cheers!
Glad you found the video helpful!
Thank you for laying this all out. I started building model kits in the late 80's early 90's as a kid. Back then the only options that were available at the only local hobby store, which was Michael's, was Testor's brand cement which was a very thick gel probably like the tube of Humbrol you have here. The Testor's orange tube had a quicker curing time and the blue tube. The blue variety must have been citrus based as well because it was labeled as non-toxic and smelled like grapefruit. I didn't discover the Tamiya liquid cement until much later in life (about 10 years ago) and if memory serves me right only the orange cap standard cement was available locally. These days Most everything I get online as the local hobby stores (which in my area are more geared to arts and crafts than model building) have a VERY limited selection. Mostly only Testors, sometimes Tamiya. I knew of the GSI products and always thought it to be fun marketing with their "Mr." labels. So I've decided to try their MR. Cement this time around since I have experience with Testors and Tamiya. I've got the Deluxe and will be picking up the "S" as well as I'm starting to get back into model building... again... lol. Which is how I ended up on this video as I wanted to know the difference between all the available options. Although I will probably keep a tube of Testor's on hand for the nostalgia :) Despite it's tendency to dispense FAR too much no matter how gentile you try to be, lol.
-Shane from Texas
Thank you for watching and sharing your journey. So glad you found the video helpful! Best of luck with your building.
1 video and I know nearly everything about glues for model kits. Nicely done! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching!
i was so used into 1/144 slap and clip in my gundams that i thought i dont need any cement in my 1/35 german tanks
YOU REALLY HELPED ME OUT ON THIS ONE
Glad to help. Thank you for watching.
G'day BJ, Yes, I've had this problem with Contacta. Thanks for these glue tips; which can be confusing. I used to be a medic and I discovered that you can put a finer gauge needle into the Contacta bottle top for really fine applications of glue that don't 'blob' out as much glue when it is first applied.
As medical syringe needles are designed to pierce the skin, the ends are cut on the bias. This actually assists in using this glue on very fine parts and makes the glue in the bottle go even further.
Most big pharmacies and medical supply houses sell a huge range of hypodermic needle sizes. You just have to remove the plastic fitment from the needle so it will slip into the Contacta bottle top.
If the needle is too thin and slips through the Contacta top just use some PE or ‘super’ glue.
If you use this glue a lot you can collect a range of yellow bottle tops with various size needles and have them handy to use on builds that suit smaller needle applicators.
NB: Safety Warning: Be very careful when using bias cut hypodermic needles because they will still puncture the skin and can even pop through really thin sections of plastic. This has worked for me for a long time and it’s really saved me money over the years. I hope this is a help to some of your customers out there. Cheers, BH
Thanks for your advice Bill!
Great explanation, thank you!
Thank you! Glad it was helpful!
Wish i watched this video before i ordered my cement yesterday from you guys for my resin prints.. Thanks for the great info!
Thanks for watching. Glad it was helpful!
But isn't resin a material where the shown cements don't work? Afaik you need superglue for resin, not plastic cement.
As your comment is over a year old: what experiences did you make so far?
very clear explanation of the types of glues and their "better" applications...
Glad the video was helpful!
Very good, it helped quite a bit !
Glad to hear that! Than you for watching!
Really excellent guidance. Thanks so much!
Thank you for watching and glad it was helpful!
I just use Testors plastic model cement for all my models. The one that comes in the red tube.
Tube cement works but the liquid cements are easier to use.
Great video
Thank you so much!
So do the thicker solution brush-on bottle ones have a stronger bond than the extra thin fast drying ones?
The strength of the bond is dependent on the surface area of the join. If the parts fit together very well and there are no gaps then the extra thin will be best. Thicker cements work best where there are some gaps.
You mention taping and gluing a fuselage together, is that applying the glue on the outside or inside of the fuselage? Thought the glue would show up if applied to the outside?!
With thin cement, the glue is applied on the outside of the fuselage join. This way you can line up the fuselage parts perfectly. The marking on the outside surface is slight and easily covered with primer or paint. This is because the cement is thin like water and evaporates quickly. If there is marking from excessive cement the dried join can be gently sanded smooth. Look out for my Phantom build part 2 video where you will see me gluing the fuselage together with tape to support, and then tacking the fuselage together before running thin cement along the whole join.
ua-cam.com/video/zpCu1SloxGU/v-deo.html
What’s best for plastic kits like gundam or hasegawa kits, I’m still trying to figure out what’s the best glue that I need to use overall for hobby kits.
Any of the plastic cements shown will be suitable.
Great Video!
So the liquid Poly from Humbrol is more on the thin side?
Yes, that is correct. It's consistency is in between tube and extra thin cement. It flows but will bead on the applied surface so it doesn't run everywhere.
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne thank you
I have noticed that the brushes in the Tamiya and Mr Cement are removable and interchangeable. Is it possible to buy replacement brushes? I recently spent some time trimming a very thick and wonky brush to be more useable, a choice if brushes would be good.
I have recently changed to Tamiya Limonene and extra thin Limonene cement. I did this because my wife strongly objects to the smell of normal cement.This took a little time to adapt, It cures more slowly but bonds very well and the extra thin really does it's job well. The slow cure also gives more adjustment time and more time to clean up excess.
I noticed Mr Cement now make black coloured SP cement so you can see where it goes, have you reviewed this, looks interesting.
For the record I think that Hearns Hobbies is almost as iconic as Flinders St station next door .
Good video, I feel like this needs to be echoed more because even Tamiya and Mr. Hobby isn't doing a good job explaining what the cements are for, the use, strength and effects. For example Mr Hobby uses "SP - for super power for strong bond!". When they should be saying what you said in video, they quick set, dries faster but no way "stronger" than everything else to the left of the SP bottle. I refuse to believe a more watery cement will create a stronger bond than the regular that literally melts the plastic within seconds to bond the two halfs. If I don't want to lose fine details or tiny parts then yeah , S and SP all the way but outside of that, I'm back to regular cement. Also to rant a bit more, yeah Mr Cement and Mr Cement Deluxe along with tamiya white/orange- drop the extra word and match the bottle colors. Just advertise the size. Really wish they were more clear.
Thank you for watching and your comment. Understanding how cements work is vital to successful building so I hope my presentation educates and makes the world a better place.
Valid points. Very confusing for the noob and even not so noob. I couldn't never figure out the logic of Tamiya making their 20ml Cement bottle lids & labelling Orange and 40ml White! Like GSI Creos' Mr.Hobby Mr.Cement, the size/capacity variation for the same glue is already differentiated by their respective bottle shapes. I think Tamiya does a better job of intuitively descriptive naming of their product across the range. i.e. (Liquid) Cement, Extra Thin, and Extra Thin (Quick Setting), although both have websites which elaborate so the info is there for the Mr>Cement range. I use and like both brands BTW. Tamiya's Cement and Extra Thin or Mr.Hobby Cement Deluxe and Cement S are my go to, although I have SP, SPB too for fine parts plus Tamiya and Zap CA as well for PE. Pacer Canopy glue or Micro Sol Crystal Clear for clear plastic parts.
Thanks for the Vid BJ. You do not mention using CA glue. Where would you recommend use of that type of glue. I generally build cars and use BSI super gold+ or sometimes a gel, but sometimes get a bit too much on the spot and it damages the paint.
Cheers Allan. CA is useful when you need a fast and strong bond, particularly with multiple materials. I generally only use it if I must because of different materials such as photoetched metal. CA often fogs the surface and it is difficult to remove it, especially on clear parts. On cars I would only use it on small items like rear vision mirrors on the bodywork.
The mat under the glues, it looks like a soldering mat, where did it come from? Thanks, good job!
The mat is the Sweep silicon pit mat. You can find them here: srchy.hearnshobbies.com/?q=sweep%20silicon%20mat
Thank you for watching!
What’s the perfect one to use for model cars
There is no perfect for model cars as there are so many types of kits and parts. If you want to select one then use the medium consistency liquid cement.
Which plastic weld based cement is the best to remove stress marks on toys? I heard that plastic cement can melt plastic by putting them together.
Unfortunately plastic stress marks cannot be removed. They can only be covered by paint or coating.
realizing super glue is the preferred glue for resin model is there a Tamiya glue a better option? thank you for your reply.
respectfully'
Brian
If you prefer Tamiya, they do make super glue (CA, cyanoacrylate). Any good quality CA from a hobby shop will work well with resin.
Thank you good sir👍
To KISS. Plastic modelling, you can get by and turn out a superb build with just two, PE, polycarbonate and other special requirements better served by the respective ZAP cyo or a canopy glue notwithstanding. Tamiya Cement (White cap in the 40ml) and Tamiya Extra Thin (Darker of the two Green caps); OR, Mr.Hobby Deluxe (Yellow Cap in the 40ml) and Mr Hobby Cement S (Light Blue cap) which are the GSI Creos approximate equivalents. Those two of either brand are must haves in any plastic modellers inventory.
Great suggestion!
Do you know if there exists some glue for finished figures? I have some gradius kits but i feel like they aro not very resistant.
Glue for finished figures? Do you mean a clear coat for protection?
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne yes. I want a glur for finished figures... Somethig to put in all the assambled parts but easy to clean. Something similar to a regular schoolar glue. I dont know it that exists or if you uderstand what i mean. For example i have gradius 5 figure and there are many parts like not very well assambled
I’m having a hard time glueing painted parts together with Tamiya thin quick set cement . Am I doing something wrong ?
Yes, the cement bonds best between raw plastic. If the surface is painted, the cement acts like a paint solvent and leaves you with a weak bond of molten plastic mixed with paint. Scape off or sand the paint to the plastic before joining. You may have noticed some people assemble much of a kit before painting. This is to achieve maximum strength and avoid join lines. For smaller detail parts a non-solvent cement such as CA or white glue may work better.
Thank you for your response so soon. I in joy your videos very informative. I’m kinda new what is CV cement ? Thanks again Tom
CA is short for cyanoacrylate, also known as instant cement or super glue.
Thank you very much
Great video, which glue do you recommend for re glueing ABS plastic. eg Broken parts from my vintage Tamiya rc buggies.
Thank you for watching. Usually I would suggest just ABS cement but for highly loaded RC parts I suggest drilling and pinning the joins, ABS cement the parts and then CA glues or epoxy glue over the top to reinforce the breakage. Pinning to spread the load is the most important part.
My question was which ones are safe and effective for abs plastic, I broke a chest joint in a gundam kit when I was rotating its arm.
You can use ABS cement or cyanoacrylate (CA).
can i ask? if gundam break part, what kind cement is use better? regular cement or extra thin cement?
It depends on the plastic and the shape of the part. If it is high stress then the joint also needs to be reinforced with a metal pin through the two parts. You will need to drill a hole though and insert a thin rod, such as brass, to strengthen the joint with the glue. Often CA/super glue and a pin works best with repairs.
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne ok thanks sir!
What would you recommend for gluing painted surfaces together? Also, where does Faller Super EXPERT Cement fall in these types?
These cements are all welding type so will have problems with painted surfaces. You will need to remove the paint from the areas you wish to join or use a surface bonding glue. CA or water based cements will join the painted parts together but will not have the same strength as welded plastic. Sorry, I am not familiar with Faller Super Expert.
Sandpaper. = ]
Seriously you need to debride painted surfaces of their paint or use an agressive styrene glue which will disolve the paint into a gluggy mess until it can acess the styrene and melt it to make a strong plastic to plastic bond.
If you want to glue two painted surfaces together such as a painted canopy frame to its mating surface, use Pacer 506 Canopy glue (intended for R/C model aeroplanes but works for our purpose as well) or Weldbond and ensure you have minimal excess by wiping it away with a damp paintbrush or cloth befoe it dries. Both dry clear, neither will affect the paint, and the bond will be strong enough for purpose. If you use CA, there's a potential issue of white misting on paint, fogging (on clear) or indelible gloss staining (excess). The paint to paint bond is fragile compared with Pacer 506 or Weldbond, and depending upon the type of paint, will often flake away with taking the paint with it from the plastic surface.
Hi, can Mr. Cement S apply on parts that have been painted??.. if it does, what type of paint??
Any liquid cement will dissolve painted surfaces. The best bond is achieved when the cement is applied to bare plastic so scrape the paint off the surface before gluing. For bonding a painted surface use CA or super glue.
Thanks for the great video BJ. I have two questions if that’s ok.
Is there a specific glue that you recommend for clear parts such as windscreens and headlamps?
Is there a specific glue that doesn’t damage painted surfaces? For example when attaching silver disc rotors to black suspension components I always seem to damage the colour on the painted surfaces.
Hello Chris. Glad you enjoyed the video.
For clear parts I recommend a water based adhesive such as Kristal Klear or Glue'n'glaze. These are a pva that dries super clear. They have no solvent so they bond the surfaces together. This means they will not damage the paint but the bond is not as strong as solvent. Since clear parts are usually not structural, the lower strength is not an issue. Also, if you have excess glue squeeze out joints, it can be easily picked off with a toothpick.
www.hearnshobbies.com/products/micro-kristal-klear-1-oz-mi-9
www.hearnshobbies.com/products/deluxe-materials-ad55-glue-n-glaze
Did you paint the silver or are they chrome plated? Either way, it is best to scrape the paint/chrome off the joint areas with a blade so you can get a plastic to plastic joint with the plastic cement. This will avoid damaged paint and result in a stronger bond.
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne thanks for the info that’s great. Regarding the silver (painted panels) not chrome. I always airbrushed the suspension panels but the glue would damage the paintwork which I would normally brush touch afterwards, but I was never happy with the brushed result. Is there a better option?
The best way to avoid glue damage to painted parts is to glue the parts as a sub-assembly before painting. This gives you the strongest bond. With most cars the suspension components can be built into front and rear assemblies that can be attached after painting. Most cars have black suspension or minimal multiple colours. Airbrush the colour on the sub-assembly that you want the smoothest and then brush paint the remainder. I usually glue the brakes on later.
No timestamps?????
No, would you like some?
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne well having timestamps will really help individuals with certain disabilities watching ur videos if u know what I mean
Legend
Cheers!
Hey BJ, which one would you recommend to fix broken part?
Hello! Fixing broken parts depends on the material of the part and how much load will be on the part. Once broken, parts do not have the same strength as before and may need reinforcement. If high load bearing then a metal pin may need to be inserted before gluing. What kind of plastic is it and how is the part utilised on the model?
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne thank you for your response BJ, let say i want to fix non moveable small details part from mecha model kit.
I would use CA (also known as super glue or cyanoacrylate) to hold fine parts in place as it sets quickly and has a firm bond on most materials.
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne thank you so much BJ!!!!!!
Talk about make it up as you go along!! Ever heard of notes??
Waste of my time. Sorry but…….
Bob
England
Nothing made up here. Thanks for watching.
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne thanks for replying and sorry for being so grumpy 😡
First off, it's NOT easy to understand you ...take some speech and articulation classes at a local college.
Now what I did gather I don't agree with you on many points....
I've been using solvent glues since the 80's for all my plastic model builds just fine and you don't need tape to glue two joints together. Also, why would you use a thicker glue to gap fill??? Use model puddy which is easier to sand.
If you're combining brass tubing or other metals, then yeah... crazy glue types or canopy glue for clear plastics.
I'm a scratch builder and you don't need much to build...just better tips and advice.
Sorry, I don't understand why you are insulting my English speech and recommending further study. It is you that has poor English skills. Being a scratch builder since the 80s doesn't make you an expert and I disagree with your unhelpful comments.
Stop been rude I can understand him clearly.
@@johngurnhill8743 lol ...learn to spell and construct a proper sentence.
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne I am an expert. I have a PHD in art engineering and have taken 11 first places in sci Fi and car scratch build model categories.
Seems you lack understanding that you also need to learn how to take constructive criticism which indicates you have a ego the size of an Orca.