FineScale Modeler: How to fill gaps and seams with putty on plastic scale models
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- Опубліковано 21 лип 2024
- Watch more FineScale Modeler how-to, full-build, and review videos at FineScale.com/Videos
We've all built a model and noticed a gap or seam that needs to be filled. In this installment of Scale Model Basics, you'll learn how to fill a seam or gap in a plastic scale model with putty--both solvent- and water-based types--and superglue. You'll also find out how long it takes for each method to dry and how to smooth them when finished drying.
00:22 Types of putty
00:40 Solvent-based putty
01:28 Water-based putty
02:55 Drying time and cleanup
04:26 Filling gaps with superglue
05:55 Advantages and disadvantages of superglue
06:22 Sanding advice
For more about sanding your scale plastic model, click the link:
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Another well done video, thanks. Have a great day.
Thanks for the the kind words and watching. You, too!
When I fill a seam, I always apply tape on either side of the seam before applying the putty. In that way, you are cleaning up the smallest area possible. By applying the Tamiya putty as shown, excessive application of the putty to areas outside the seam can lead to loss of details when sanding and cleaning up.
Indeed, that's a very good tip
I do that too but make sure you remove the tape before the filler dries/sets. Ask me how I found out...
I do the same, but to apply putty always put some in a plastic milk carton cap, thin it down with Tamiya liquid glue, stir it and brush it on! This way you're only putting it where you want it and it takes a lot less time to sand it whereas some guys really cake it on thick and that just screws the model up!
ever since I switched to vallejos plastic putty ive found my models look 10x better, having not to sand has been one of the best things ever and means i dont ever have to rescribe the panel lines, it literally saves me hours of work
I'm looking at switching, but have seen reviews that it's a bit crumbly. How do you get on with sanding larger areas or adding texture? jj
@@jumb0j0ck I haven’t experienced any crumbliness from it yet, and for larger areas I usually take my time with it making sure it gets down in there properly, then simply taking a wet cotton bud and taking away the excess (with some care) I also only ever sand the area if it’s something water cannot take care off, like airplane fuselage halves or stuff like that, usually dampen the putty line with a bit of water then get on with sanding. Hope this helps! Fantastic product, will be buying again.
Easy method with putty is to swab excess up with damp Q-tip after you putty the seam. Greatly speeds up the process.
Found your channel in my recommendation screen. Just started making models again after 40yrs. Had to stop watch channels about guys catching wives cheating. Have to watch relaxing hobbies again so I'm a new subscriber
Scale modeling is the much better option. Thanks for subscribing!
Another tip for solvent based putties. I like that Tamiya grey solvent putty, but it's a little on the thick side sometimes.
You can thin it with lacquer thinner, or I like to use lacquer primer. Mix just a little in and it will make the putty a little easier to spread.
Not to be negative here, just good to keep in mind when using filler types;
solvent based = shrinkage since drying action is solvent evaporation.
Vallejo water based = dries with elasticity so unsandable -
use only in wingroot as Aaron shows first time!
Superglue = Apply only in small amounts that can be sanded soon after, repeat...
Good advantage is no shrinkage and adds strength.
That's a good summary, thanks :) I didn't realise the vallejo filler was less sandable but having read some reviews it seems you're right - it seems to dry to a similar consistency to dried acrylic paint, and is more rubbery. Probably a filler you want to get just where you want it before it dries.
Great video as usual. As an Australian I can hear a hint of our (or NZ) accent in your speech!
I like to use CA mixed with acrylic powder for larger and uneven gaps. The sanding process is super controllable and the filler doesn’t shrink or expand and very stable so it doesn’t crumble.
Everyone has their special techniques. But we're just covering the basics in this video. Thanks for watching!
Great instructions for someone just getting into model building. Thanks a ton!
We're glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching!
Very nice tutorial. Great tips. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent advice.
We're glad it was helpful!
I’m cracking up over here . . . I found this video when searching for tips on filling gaps, and BOOM . . . the first thing I see is the HUGE Enterprise in the background (I built that one too!), and the Space 1999 ship (probably getting it for Xmas).
I recently started building models again after a 40 year hiatus. Looking forward to digesting your videos!
Thanks for watching!
Good information 👍
Thanks!
Oustanding, thank you !
You are welcome!
Thank you so much for another great video. I was wondering what the name of the glue applicator tool is and where I might find it...thanks again!
actually, I think I found it...a C/A-ndle...is that right...thanks!
Ha! It is the Glue Looper.
@@FineScaleModelermagazine thank you!!
cool tips sir
Glad you like them!
I'm surprise about the lack of comments regarding the Perfect Products Putty. Lying on your bench although didn't use or mention. They indicate this product is non-toxic on their videos, a huge asset to model building inside the shop.
Thanks a lot. As a beginner, I have learned a lot watching your short and very didactic tutorials. Now, I am waiting to get my first issue of the magazine in the mailbox ;)
You are welcome and thank you for subscribing!
Thanks for the demo video. What do you think about liquid putty made from sprue bits melted with plastic cement?
It works well. It's more of an advanced technique, so we didn't include it in this video.
Please suggest an air compressor and paintbrush for a beginner.
This is really great information, however, I struggle with seams where the plastic doesnt quite line up. one side is lower or higher than the other. Can you go over how to make sure that the seams look even when completed?
We can definitely go over that in another video or as an article in the magazine.
Nice stuff. Have you experimented with CA Glue + filler like baking soda/talc/marble powder? It is much thicker than even thick glue but is easier to sand when hard. It is also less brittle.
En i use Putty i do. Use sanded i use acetona and it a piece of tissue .i passe in the the plástico and it work very fine.🙂
HI I would like to know if plaster of Paris work to?
No, please do not use plaster of Paris as a filler on your plastic model.
Can I use putty from hardware shop to fill up the seam?
It depends on what sort of putty you're asking about. Wall putty? Not so much. OTOH, there are modelers--some of them regular contributors to FSM--who swear by Bondo. The easy answer is to buy putty packaged and distributed for use with plastic models. There's little chance for you to go wrong.
What type of glove are you wearing?
Aaron wore non-latex gloves for this video. They're available at just about any big-box store.
What about sprue glue?
Sprue goo filler is a more advanced technique that we'll cover in another video, but we and our contributors have used it plenty in FineScale Modeler magazine and in FSM books.
I use plastic putty filling the gap and then sanding, as I prime it I can see the gap. I never get a even flat surface :-(
Depending upon the gap you're trying to fill, you might need to apply a different kind of putty. Solvent-based putty is going to feather better, but it's also going to shrink, so you'll need to apply, let it dry, reapply, sand, and maybe reapply again. When sanding, make sure you go up to extra-fine grits to get the best possible finish. With practice, you can master this.
Great video! I've heard solvent based putties can be thinned down with lacquer thinner or mineral spirits. Is this true?
Lacquer thinner, yes. We haven't tried mineral spirits (added to the list of things to test). Two things to bear in mind when doing this: First, make sure you're mixing your slurry on a surface that will not react with the putty--glass or ceramic, for instance. Do not use a plastic surface because it will react with the thinned putty. Yes, that seems elementary, but you'd be surprised. Second, don't use the first batch you've ever thinned on the model you're working on; test it on a parts you don't care about and get a feel for how the modeling putty you're using reacts to the thinning agent. Good luck and happy modeling!
@@FineScaleModelermagazine It's alright fellas. My dry pallet is a discarded white ceramic tile I found near the garbage one day. It's good.
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1g
38kw 1kl
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If you can fill gaps with water based putty why don´t you glue plastic models (and any other plastic item for the matter) with Elmer's glue?
Filling a gap with water-based putty works because styrene glue is what's holding the model together. Elmer's glue (or a water-based putty) wouldn't hold a plastic model together very well since it doesn't the same bonding strength as other glues.
You forgot about the biggest issue with the solvent-based putties: they are extremely fragile.
Way, way too much putty! What a mess.
Put enough for the seam not 1/2 the model. Don't know why dude did this. Unless you love sanding for a longtime.