Shannon, I want to thank you for your videos. I bought a fixer-Upper north of Montreal and I have been able to do a lot of the work myself, thanks to your videos - such complete, well-explained videos - so grateful for your invaluable assistance - you are a true Canadian - modest, hard-working and conscientious - you are making a difference!
I also recommend glueing/cementing both the pipe and the fitting for guaranteed seal and if you're feeling extra, even rough up both prior to cement with sandpaper.
Shannon, just FYI, I read on the ABS cement can instructions that the application procedure consists of 3 steps. 1) Apply liberal coat of cement to pipe to the depth of the socket, leave no uncoated surface. 2) Apply a thin coat of cement to inside of fitting, avoid puddling of cement. Puddling can cause weakening and premature failure of pipe or fitting. 3) Apply a second coat of cement to the pipe. Then you insert the pipe as you had shown. This is what it says on the can of the Oatley Solvent Cements for ABS pipe glue.
Your videos are so informative articulated clear explanation distraction free and your voice is calm .If you open a school you ll have lots of enrollement .
1) You're not holding the pieces in when you first join them. You ABSOLUTELY have to hold them together since the solvent generates heat to solvent weld the pieces together. That heat naturally pushes the pieces apart, and that's why you MUST hold them together until they cool down (about 30 seconds). 2) Why didn't you first put the bushing on the 1 1/2" pipe and then put that into the stud opening?
that depends a little on how far from the sink you will be. At the sink the 1-1/2 pipe should come out of the wall at 18" to center from the floor. Your horizontal pipe from that point to the main stack should be sloped at 1/4" per foot ,so from that you can figure out the height of the fitting you need to cut into the main stack.
Even 10 years on....relevant...thanks for the video...great tips...now I feel so much more confident with Kitchen sink install...( not sure you're still you tubing....anyways Thanks)
Many levels have two black lines around the bubble. If you are using one of those levels, the outer line indicates a 2° slope up toward the side the bubble is touching. No need to rig anything up if you have one of those.
I've never seen a ptrap with that little opening on the bottom. I like the valve enclosure too. Maybe add some amazon affiliate links for us for the equipment you're using...
Question?? I'm remodeling our bathroom and our waste and vent lines are 4". ( main line to street) The waste will remain 4" but does the vent up need to be 4"? I'm not a plumber , Actually I'm an Electrician and very handy. I try a do as much as a can to learn and save.
@@HouseImprovements thank you! I’m trying to do this as well. Currently have a sanitary ty with a side hub for the future vanity and a vent. I would also like to add washing machine so go with a double ty like you have shown and ensure ur washing machine plumbing is 2 inch and sink 1.5 inches? I’m in manitoba
Thank you for great details. One question. for the 4 feet section slope. We need 1 inch rise and the angle created by 1 inch height goes in to receptacles on either end with ceratin angel and will this cause an improper fit or glue stength? Or how much angle can be tolerated without an extra slopiing fitting connection?
what about a clean out option How do you avoid damaging the threads in the cleanout where the plug goes in when using a power snake to clean the maIN drain ?
You can just glue up your 90 and pitch it while the glue is still wet. Then you dont have to waste time dry fitting. The 90's pitch stick in the pipe and keep moving.
Good disposition but the video needs to be redone there are a lot of misleading steps, For example both fitting and pipe needs to be coated with glue and Held for a minimum of 30 seconds. Of all the different types of pipe ABS will want to back out of the fitted more than any other type especially large sized pipes and fittings
The 1/8" pice of wood on the torpedo level looks like it should be on the other end of the pipe. But then he ended up eyeballing it after going to the trouble of constructing it so it seems it didn't matter for him... Of course you want it to be such that the pipe will be higher at the sink end than the sewer end.
I had to go back and watch the video ,and you are right if the pipe would have been long enough I was holding the level the wrong way. Hopefully if the level would have fit on that pipe I would have caught my mistake. Good eye on seeing that.
HouseImprovements Shannon, you should do a video on how to attach a 1/4" block on a torpedo level in order to get 1/4" fall per foot. I am a DIYer and I'd like to see that.
Rocket Rider You are looking for 1/4" / foot, so on a torpedo level (which is usually only about 8" long) I measured 6" from one end (1/2 a foot) and at that point I used electrical tape to secure a 1/8" piece of wood because of only going 6" long. I leave that taped on permanently ..
HouseImprovements OK, I found something in the kitchen that is 1/4" high. I put a 12" ruler on it to get a slope of 1/4" then I put my torpedo level on top of the sloped ruler and noted the place where the bubble rested. I marked it with a black marker. That way I don't need to tape anything to the level itself.
another good video Shannon Question ? black abs or white pvc for washing machine drain ? and basement shower piping ? what is the difference and when to use ? currently have black abs for basement plastic sink joining to copper main stack
Well it depends where you live some areas use PVC in most places . Where I am ABS is generally used all through residential buildings but some areas will have different rules.
Great video. I am trying to build a bathroom without cutting into the Cement.. I wanted to ask can I cut into the waste pipe and just raise the floor for the toilet. how do I cut into it if I can
Shannon , I have 1 1/2 brass drain line for may washer and sink. I have a small lea that I think it is running down inside my block wall. I think it is a brass pipe, house built in 1962, any way this drain come down from up stair and runs through a cement wall goes down the wall at a 45 on one side then make a turn down with another 45 and then goes down the inside of a small closet about 6' and back though the same wall and goes to a drain on the other side of the same wall to a bar sink. I have noticed water on the floor under the drain line in this closet. I want to know if I cut this copper or brass pipe and go with ABS how do I join these two pipes that are different. Can I use what they call a Fernco that is rubber with two hose clamps or do they make something different to join these two pipes. Thanks for Great videos. Please let me know, I need HELP !
This type of ABS pipe is recommended for water temp up to 140F. my horizontal section ABS pipe to the waste pipe under the sink is totally destroyed with cracks, water drippings along it when running water from the sink. I think the hot water from pasta cooking and discharged hot water from my dishwasher which is over 140F did the damage over time. Do you know if there are ABS DWV pipes 1 1/2" can handle temperature above 140F and can I cut off the damaged section and replace with that even they are not the same materials. Thanks.
Yes you need a p-trap to keep sewer gases from coming back into the home. The trap does not need a clean out, it was the only 2" trap I could get at the time and I actually glued it closed so that it would not maybe start to leak over time.
The level should have the taped on spacer towards the wall side not the end of the pipe to angle the pipe up. The way you showed it would be sloped downhill.
I guess I always am pretty liberal with the amount I apply so never felt the need to have it on both pieces. I always give my pieces a slight twist after joining as well. As some have suggested here it should be on both pieces.
HouseImprovements If you understood what the glue is doing, you would apply to both surfaces. If you attempted this with pressurized pvc, your joints would fail in very little time. If your only going to add glue to one surface you should at least prime both surfaces first
Hi HouseImprovements, I have a roughed in bathroom and had waterlines installed. The toilet and sing drains are roughed in a should be ready for install. I'm about to tile to floor and was wondering when/where do I make the cut of the ABS pipe cut for the toilet drain. I have a standard flange and toilet ready to go but not sure where to cut the drain.
Hi Shannon , need an advise from you. I installed a new kitchen in basement. Some how while cementing ABS pipe I kinda messed up slope on the pipe which connects from P-Tap to drain. Drain pipe has sufficient slope though. But pipe connects from P-Trap to Drain pipe has a slope downwards towards the trap. I ran water through , let the tap running for 10 minutes and water is flowing perfectly fine. Wondering should I leave it as is or fix it ? Please reply. Thanks
Shannon how high off the ground is that double t? I have a roughed in by builder at 20.5 inches. Does that mean I need to cut bring it down to 18** inches I think you said.
Hi Shannon, how do I know if need an up flush toilet? My house was built in 2002. I have a well and septic. I have the pipe in the floor for toilet, but some people are telling me I still need a pump. Thank you Mark
Why don't you apply the glue on the pipe as well? I'm only an apprentice at the moment, but I've always been told to apply it on both the fitting and pipe.
I never have, I apply lots to the fitting and twist it about 1/4 turn once it is on the pipe to help smear it on the pipe as well. I have many people comment that it should be applied on both and it is likely a good idea.
Hay Shannon, question for you . I am about to extend my kitchen. Behind the wall close to the kitchen is a laundry. I found the pvc pipe that runs from the floor to the ceiling and two copper pipes hot and cold water. I cut off the pvc pipe on the ceiling and at bottom. Question is, do I have to glue the cup on the part I cut off on the ceiling because that vent pipe runs towards bathroom or should I lieve it open.
it should not be left open but just capping it can trap moisture over time that could freeze and bust the pipe if you live in a cold climate. Re doing the vent so it does not have that dead end drop in the ceiling is a good idea.
Thanks for the video. I watched it and then replaced a 30' run from one side of the house to the other. Home Depot only had the nasty black adhesive, not the fancy yellow stuff you are using. Can you tell us about the yellow stuff, where to get it, how it differs from the black stuff, etc. I had to use solvent to get the black stuff off my hands!
You were probably mistakenly using system15/xfr glue (greyish colour)...abs glue is yellow 100% (there's transition glue for pvc to abs which is white)... i would consider deleting and rebuilding with the proper adhesive (especially if you didn't use a glue mentioned in this comment.)
metal hanger strapping works www.amazon.com/PlumBest-H20011R-Galvanized-Hanger-100-Foot/dp/B0069QU02C/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=metal+hanger+strapping&qid=1573410289&sr=8-7
what size STUDS Shannon ? what size Hole Saw ? Just Ordered the Wrong Hole Saw today From Home Depot Canada for 2" Black ABS ( 2 1/4 " ) i think 2 1/2 - 2 3/4 better
I used to use Vent 90's on the trap arm so the hub would be in the wall but the inspectors started calling me on it. And why do you only glue the hub the end of the pipe should be glued also.
+HouseImprovements Not that it happens often but when glue joints have failed its been when only one piece was glued. I guess if your quick enough it shouldn't matter but if the one glued piece begins to skin over your running the risk of not actually fusing the abs but rather just packing it with a sealant. Also I forgot to mention on the vent 90 trap arm when the inspectors started calling on me I started using spigot medium 90's so the spigot end is whats sticking out of the wall and my trap adapter. glues on to that spigot long sweeps if the cabinet had a back panel. And I just want to say these are things that I have been through if your work works and everyone is happy then it was done right no matter how you did it.
Why would you use a P-trap with a clean out concealed in the wall on the laundry? Doesn't make sense when you can clean the drain from the opening on top. More problems for leaks in the wall!
Anyone else notice he was trying to put the raised end of the level on the wrong side? The slope would have been down with the raised block on the stub end. I mean, the pipe was still too short for it to work right, and I'm sure he would have noticed had he continued and did it for real. But I just thought it was kind of amusing.
just my opinion...but... i would only use a double t wye when connecting 2 lavs ,, , washer drains a lot of water so guess where most that water going to go...yep ..the lav trap arm .. i would use 2 in t-wye for washer and 2 by 1 1/2 by 1 1/2 for lav on top ., just saying this to help
wow, so many things you do are wrong, go to plumbing school if your going to teach people.... 1, you should always ream & chamfer your pipes...... 1 year stuff bud...I could go on.... put on some pants too.
Wrong glue, glue is required on both fitting and pipe, a good inspector will catch this along with you can not cover a trap in the wall that has a trap clean out on it. Online inspection...not approved.
This is way off base. First off, crosses aren't to code. 2" trap arm? Why? NEVER DRY FIT You'll end up forgetting to glue one. It will come back and bite you.Plus.. what a waste of time. Hey! Rough in distance from floor to centerline of k/s drain? Sort of important. **18"** Same for vanity sink. If it's too high on a k/s, you may not be able to hook up a g/d or a 2 compartment sink. 2" p-trap for w/m. riser no less than 18" , no more than 30". Why a clean out on the p-trap in a wall? Silly and a potential leak. Always apply glue to both spigot and socket, twist as you insert and hold briefly(the pipe can back out when first installed) wipe off excess glue.I shouldn't watch these.Too painful
Good video. Always glue both sides it creates a melting bond between both. No leaks.
Shannon, I want to thank you for your videos. I bought a fixer-Upper north of Montreal and I have been able to do a lot of the work myself, thanks to your videos - such complete, well-explained videos - so grateful for your invaluable assistance - you are a true Canadian - modest, hard-working and conscientious - you are making a difference!
I also recommend glueing/cementing both the pipe and the fitting for guaranteed seal and if you're feeling extra, even rough up both prior to cement with sandpaper.
Prepping for my forever house- I was wondering about sanding the ends, to be super extra should I chamfer the ends a bit or is that way overkill?
Shannon, just FYI, I read on the ABS cement can instructions that the application procedure consists of 3 steps.
1) Apply liberal coat of cement to pipe to the depth of the
socket, leave no uncoated surface.
2) Apply a thin coat of cement to inside of fitting, avoid
puddling of cement. Puddling can cause weakening and
premature failure of pipe or fitting.
3) Apply a second coat of cement to the pipe.
Then you insert the pipe as you had shown.
This is what it says on the can of the Oatley Solvent Cements for ABS pipe glue.
Good to know,Always read instructions, LOL
@Michael A they were commenting on his demonstration of only 1 coat per fitting and pipe. Hard to watch as a plumber. 😂😪
Your videos are so informative articulated clear explanation distraction free and your voice is calm .If you open a school you ll have lots of enrollement .
Your slowly helping me build my house! Thanks for your guidance.
Blessings,
Mike
I watch a lot of videos and you are so clear and easy to understand. I'm a teacher, so I know a good teacher when I see one. Thanks for these.
I like the turning the studs sideways idea...good video
wakeywakey that's why we build lavatories with 2x6 for plumbing
For pvc or abs pipe under 2" I use ratchet pipe shear it makes a clean and quite cut. I have learned a lot from watching your videos. Thanks.
My office supplies store didn't have a Sharpie like Shannon's. So I used a White-Out pen instead; worked great.
Actually you are right a strap or two would have been a good idea to help support the horizontal pipe.
very good video and teacher, it is easy for everyone to understand
That level thing you made is really smart
1) You're not holding the pieces in when you first join them. You ABSOLUTELY have to hold them together since the solvent generates heat to solvent weld the pieces together. That heat naturally pushes the pieces apart, and that's why you MUST hold them together until they cool down (about 30 seconds). 2) Why didn't you first put the bushing on the 1 1/2" pipe and then put that into the stud opening?
Also he need put some glue in the pipe and fittings..and hold until glue cold down
Abs is commonly used here above ground and PVC is used below ground
that depends a little on how far from the sink you will be. At the sink the 1-1/2 pipe should come out of the wall at 18" to center from the floor. Your horizontal pipe from that point to the main stack should be sloped at 1/4" per foot ,so from that you can figure out the height of the fitting you need to cut into the main stack.
Even 10 years on....relevant...thanks for the video...great tips...now I feel so much more confident with Kitchen sink install...( not sure you're still you tubing....anyways Thanks)
Many levels have two black lines around the bubble. If you are using one of those levels, the outer line indicates a 2° slope up toward the side the bubble is touching. No need to rig anything up if you have one of those.
I like this guy.
Great video.
Eh I just notice that you posted that video the same time the huge flood in Calgary ~ Cheers mate
I've never seen a ptrap with that little opening on the bottom. I like the valve enclosure too. Maybe add some amazon affiliate links for us for the equipment you're using...
Question?? I'm remodeling our bathroom and our waste and vent lines are 4". ( main line to street) The waste will remain 4" but does the vent up need to be 4"? I'm not a plumber , Actually I'm an Electrician and very handy. I try a do as much as a can to learn and save.
This is awesome. Exactly what I am doing. So no need to prime ABS like you do with schedule 40 PVC?
It is better if you put the glue on the fitting and the end of the pipe.
@@HouseImprovements thank you! I’m trying to do this as well. Currently have a sanitary ty with a side hub for the future vanity and a vent. I would also like to add washing machine so go with a double ty like you have shown and ensure ur washing machine plumbing is 2 inch and sink 1.5 inches? I’m in manitoba
id glue the clean out on the ptrap if your going to bury it in the wall
Snake a p-trap enough and it’s shot
Thanks!
Thank you !
I like your way of explanation... please help me how to find drain pipe in garage to install sink or laundary. Thanks
Thank you for great details. One question. for the 4 feet section slope. We need 1 inch rise and the angle created by 1 inch height goes in to receptacles on either end with ceratin angel and will this cause an improper fit or glue stength? Or how much angle can be tolerated without an extra slopiing fitting connection?
how about a video on piping the whole house? god bless
Thank you 🙏 very helpful
May Allah(God) bless you more
what about a clean out option
How do you avoid damaging the threads in the cleanout where the plug goes in when using a power snake to clean the maIN drain ?
I was always told to put the glue on the pipe instead of the fitting so it doesn't push any excess into the pipe cavity. Possible flow reduction?
In reality they recommend glue on both the pipe and the fitting to be sure you have enough glue contact.
If running 1 1/2 inch abs through a floor should you drill a bigger hole than 1 1/2 inches?
Thank you
I learned a lot!
Better check your local codes first.. This wouldn't fly in parts of the US
You can just glue up your 90 and pitch it while the glue is still wet. Then you dont have to waste time dry fitting. The 90's pitch stick in the pipe and keep moving.
You're smart and likable...I wish you lived in California ..so I could fire my jackass contractor!
Hi , should update this video, now you can not use a short 90 on the drain...use a long sweep 90 or a combination of two 45s'....
Good disposition but the video needs to be redone there are a lot of misleading steps, For example both fitting and pipe needs to be coated with glue and Held for a minimum of 30 seconds. Of all the different types of pipe ABS will want to back out of the fitted more than any other type especially large sized pipes and fittings
thanks very much
Great video! I enjoyed the session. It will save me money. Kisses.
The 1/8" pice of wood on the torpedo level looks like it should be on the other end of the pipe. But then he ended up eyeballing it after going to the trouble of constructing it so it seems it didn't matter for him... Of course you want it to be such that the pipe will be higher at the sink end than the sewer end.
I had to go back and watch the video ,and you are right if the pipe would have been long enough I was holding the level the wrong way. Hopefully if the level would have fit on that pipe I would have caught my mistake. Good eye on seeing that.
HouseImprovements Shannon, you should do a video on how to attach a 1/4" block on a torpedo level in order to get 1/4" fall per foot. I am a DIYer and I'd like to see that.
Rocket Rider You are looking for 1/4" / foot, so on a torpedo level (which is usually only about 8" long) I measured 6" from one end (1/2 a foot) and at that point I used electrical tape to secure a 1/8" piece of wood because of only going 6" long. I leave that taped on permanently ..
Thanks. I will set up mine too.
HouseImprovements OK, I found something in the kitchen that is 1/4" high. I put a 12" ruler on it to get a slope of 1/4" then I put my torpedo level on top of the sloped ruler and noted the place where the bubble rested. I marked it with a black marker. That way I don't need to tape anything to the level itself.
pretty good video! but a question is why no clips for the abs pipe, how to support on the stud wall?
another good video Shannon
Question ?
black abs or white pvc for washing machine drain ? and basement shower piping ?
what is the difference and when to use ?
currently have black abs for basement plastic sink joining to copper main stack
Well it depends where you live some areas use PVC in most places . Where I am ABS is generally used all through residential buildings but some areas will have different rules.
@@HouseImprovements Living in TORONTO .
so Either one will Do ?
i heard Black ABS slightly Cheaper
@@jonienglish3231 Both will do the job and ABS is usually cheaper.
Great video. I am trying to build a bathroom without cutting into the Cement.. I wanted to ask can I cut into the waste pipe and just raise the floor for the toilet. how do I cut into it if I can
+C. Osi It maybe possible but I have never done that. Interesting thought though.
honestly all depends on the location how high or low it is. honestly cutting the cement and doing it right is your best bet
Shannon , I have 1 1/2 brass drain line for may washer and sink. I have a small lea that I think it is running down inside my block wall. I think it is a brass pipe, house built in 1962, any way this drain come down from up stair and runs through a cement wall goes down the wall at a 45 on one side then make a turn down with another 45 and then goes down the inside of a small closet about 6' and back though the same wall and goes to a drain on the other side of the same wall to a bar sink. I have noticed water on the floor under the drain line in this closet. I want to know if I cut this copper or brass pipe and go with ABS how do I join these two pipes that are different. Can I use what they call a Fernco that is rubber with two hose clamps or do they make something different to join these two pipes. Thanks for Great videos. Please let me know, I need HELP !
Please use my forum and include a picture of the pipe and the size.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
This type of ABS pipe is recommended for water temp up to 140F. my horizontal section ABS pipe to the waste pipe under the sink is totally destroyed with cracks, water drippings along it when running water from the sink. I think the hot water from pasta cooking and discharged hot water from my dishwasher which is over 140F did the damage over time. Do you know if there are ABS DWV pipes 1 1/2" can handle temperature above 140F and can I cut off the damaged section and replace with that even they are not the same materials. Thanks.
ABS is rated for 180 degrees. I have never seen it be damaged by hot water.
Do you need a p-trap in for the Laundry drain and why one with a clean out in the bottom of it that will be inside the wall?
Yes you need a p-trap to keep sewer gases from coming back into the home. The trap does not need a clean out, it was the only 2" trap I could get at the time and I actually glued it closed so that it would not maybe start to leak over time.
That fitting in the beginning is a cross not a wye.
The level should have the taped on spacer towards the wall side not the end of the pipe to angle the pipe up. The way you showed it would be sloped downhill.
How come you only apply the glue to one not both surfaces of the ABS pipe?
I guess I always am pretty liberal with the amount I apply so never felt the need to have it on both pieces. I always give my pieces a slight twist after joining as well. As some have suggested here it should be on both pieces.
HouseImprovements If you understood what the glue is doing, you would apply to both surfaces. If you attempted this with pressurized pvc, your joints would fail in very little time. If your only going to add glue to one surface you should at least prime both surfaces first
Hi HouseImprovements,
I have a roughed in bathroom and had waterlines installed. The toilet and sing drains are roughed in a should be ready for install. I'm about to tile to floor and was wondering when/where do I make the cut of the ABS pipe cut for the toilet drain. I have a standard flange and toilet ready to go but not sure where to cut the drain.
This is a better question for my forum, I can help you there. www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Hi Shannon , need an advise from you. I installed a new kitchen in basement. Some how while cementing ABS pipe I kinda messed up slope on the pipe which connects from P-Tap to drain. Drain pipe has sufficient slope though. But pipe connects from P-Trap to Drain pipe has a slope downwards towards the trap. I ran water through , let the tap running for 10 minutes and water is flowing perfectly fine. Wondering should I leave it as is or fix it ? Please reply. Thanks
It is likely a short enough run that you will be fine.
Shannon how high off the ground is that double t? I have a roughed in by builder at 20.5 inches. Does that mean I need to cut bring it down to 18** inches I think you said.
At up to about 22" you would still be ok in most cases.
@@HouseImprovements is the height mainly importance for where the abs comes out of the finished wall so vanity can connect?
At 14:40 when gluing the ABS pipe to the PVC laundry box, don’t you have to use a transition cement?
You know you make a good point there? You are likely correct I have never thought of that.
Hi Shannon, how do I know if need an up flush toilet? My house was built in 2002. I have a well and septic. I have the pipe in the floor for toilet, but some people are telling me I still need a pump. Thank you Mark
our forum is a good place for this question.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
@@HouseImprovements Thanks Shannon. I will give it try. Appreciate ya!
Hi shannon, do the laundry drain needs a vent too?
Not if it's within five feet of the existing vent. Also you could use an AAV if permitted.
AAV = air admittance valve.
Why don't you apply the glue on the pipe as well? I'm only an apprentice at the moment, but I've always been told to apply it on both the fitting and pipe.
I never have, I apply lots to the fitting and twist it about 1/4 turn once it is on the pipe to help smear it on the pipe as well. I have many people comment that it should be applied on both and it is likely a good idea.
Thanks, Shannon. It's a helpful video either way. Appreciate the reply!
Hay Shannon, question for you . I am about to extend my kitchen. Behind the wall close to the kitchen is a laundry. I found the pvc pipe that runs from the floor to the ceiling and two copper pipes hot and cold water. I cut off the pvc pipe on the ceiling and at bottom. Question is, do I have to glue the cup on the part I cut off on the ceiling because that vent pipe runs towards bathroom or should I lieve it open.
it should not be left open but just capping it can trap moisture over time that could freeze and bust the pipe if you live in a cold climate. Re doing the vent so it does not have that dead end drop in the ceiling is a good idea.
Logical and well explained , and slow enough for me being a wanna be dyi-er...thanks...
Hi Good Video
Black abs Pipe or the White STUFF for DRAINS ???
Depends on your local code some places specify which one they want
Thanks for the video. I watched it and then replaced a 30' run from one side of the house to the other. Home Depot only had the nasty black adhesive, not the fancy yellow stuff you are using. Can you tell us about the yellow stuff, where to get it, how it differs from the black stuff, etc. I had to use solvent to get the black stuff off my hands!
I have never seen/used a black ABS cement. I purchase my yellow glue from Home hardware. It does not easily wash off either.
You were probably mistakenly using system15/xfr glue (greyish colour)...abs glue is yellow 100% (there's transition glue for pvc to abs which is white)... i would consider deleting and rebuilding with the proper adhesive (especially if you didn't use a glue mentioned in this comment.)
Jason Bolton abs glue in the us is black and milkey white we don't have a yellow glue for abs. Transition glue is green here in the us.
Would a Mitre saw with wood blade bo ok to cut 4" or less ABS? Thanks
Yes, cut with control and don't just chop down through it with speed. Safety glasses for sure
How do I fasten 60 feet of 4'' abs pipe to the basement ceiling? Is there special clamps or something?
metal hanger strapping works
www.amazon.com/PlumBest-H20011R-Galvanized-Hanger-100-Foot/dp/B0069QU02C/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=metal+hanger+strapping&qid=1573410289&sr=8-7
what size STUDS Shannon ?
what size Hole Saw ?
Just Ordered the Wrong Hole Saw today From Home Depot Canada for 2" Black ABS ( 2 1/4 " )
i think 2 1/2 - 2 3/4 better
you are best to be framing the plumbing wall with 2x6 and you want a 2-3/4" hole saw for 2" PVC.
@@HouseImprovements Thanks - Keep up the Good Videos
Do not use a hacksaw/ Zallsaw, ends wont always be even and may leak, also try to get the correct fitting and not use push ins
The laundry box doesn’t look like ABS! Is it PVC? Should it take different cement?
Actually there is a glue to join ABS to PVC
by code I'm pretty sure those double y fittings are not permitted
+Tyler Pickersgill this is just fine, unless your area has modified the code?
Where abouts are you from?
Im from windsor ontario
Awesome! Now when the electrician goes to put in the box for his over the vanity light, the vent stack will be right in the way! Awesome!
I suppose if this were a bathroom or if the pipe was less then 2" from the face of where the finished wall surface would be it could be a problem.
So what size are the top and bottom plates?
I used to use Vent 90's on the trap arm so the hub would be in the wall but the inspectors started calling me on it. And why do you only glue the hub the end of the pipe should be glued also.
+Dumped4ADildo I guess thats just how I have always done it, maybe because I use a fair amount of glue I have go ten away with it?
+HouseImprovements Not that it happens often but when glue joints have failed its been when only one piece was glued. I guess if your quick enough it shouldn't matter but if the one glued piece begins to skin over your running the risk of not actually fusing the abs but rather just packing it with a sealant. Also I forgot to mention on the vent 90 trap arm when the inspectors started calling on me I started using spigot medium 90's so the spigot end is whats sticking out of the wall and my trap adapter. glues on to that spigot long sweeps if the cabinet had a back panel. And I just want to say these are things that I have been through if your work works and everyone is happy then it was done right no matter how you did it.
Why would you use a P-trap with a clean out concealed in the wall on the laundry? Doesn't make sense when you can clean the drain from the opening on top. More problems for leaks in the wall!
some you putting glue directly. others you apply something else first. can you kindly explain?
glue used always, not sure what you are seeing. Please use my forum if you have more questions. www.house-improvements.com/forums/
PVC needs a primer but even with ABS, a cleaner may be used
you look the same plumber like hofpodcast
Any leaks
PVC or ABS, which is preferred?
Robert Burkley abs is better
Anyone else notice he was trying to put the raised end of the level on the wrong side? The slope would have been down with the raised block on the stub end. I mean, the pipe was still too short for it to work right, and I'm sure he would have noticed had he continued and did it for real. But I just thought it was kind of amusing.
just my opinion...but... i would only use a double t wye when connecting 2 lavs ,, , washer drains a lot of water so guess where most that water going to go...yep ..the lav trap arm .. i would use 2 in t-wye for washer and 2 by 1 1/2 by 1 1/2 for lav on top ., just saying this to help
hand saws? lol use a reed quick release tube cutter. what i use for 1" to 4"
can I ask where are your from ?
No primer for ABS pipe?
No. No primer for ABS.
We cant use that Four piece wye as you call it... Must be a double fixture fitting
10:20 Avoid using power saws, since the high speed of the cutting blade can melt the plastic.
Shouldn't that 90 be a LT 90?
Great.:-) :-)
i get high off the ABC Glue
wow, so many things you do are wrong, go to plumbing school if your going to teach people.... 1, you should always ream & chamfer your pipes...... 1 year stuff bud...I could go on.... put on some pants too.
Warren warren ~ It's all good bud, put back your paints, sit back and grab a number
why abs and not pvc?
I'm thinking he might be in Canada (but I could be wrong).
Wrong glue, glue is required on both fitting and pipe, a good inspector will catch this along with you can not cover a trap in the wall that has a trap clean out on it.
Online inspection...not approved.
called a cross wye, get a good level omg
I just can't Shannon, so little glue on those joints and only in the fittings, leak city lol. Sorry.
Umm... X?
the clean out look out side the wall? what thr fuck is that what doyou think about the washing machine ? the foam going in the lavatory bad example
This is way off base. First off, crosses aren't to code. 2" trap arm? Why? NEVER DRY FIT You'll end up forgetting to glue one. It will come back and bite you.Plus.. what a waste of time. Hey! Rough in distance from floor to centerline of k/s drain? Sort of important. **18"** Same for vanity sink. If it's too high on a k/s, you may not be able to hook up a g/d or a 2 compartment sink.
2" p-trap for w/m. riser no less than 18" , no more than 30". Why a clean out on the p-trap in a wall? Silly and a potential leak. Always apply glue to both spigot and socket, twist as you insert and hold briefly(the pipe can back out when first installed) wipe off excess glue.I shouldn't watch these.Too painful
Hello sir sandeep plumber INADIA joB search
Short 90 not legal has to be long 90 the rule
Will you please marry me??... ......And then fix my house?? 😁😁😁😁😁
Useless, what if you needed to cut thru those studs?
Hole saw
nice legs bro
jesus christ. 19 min video
Meth. Not even once.