Next part of engine evaluation. Research and tearing down the cylinder head. 1100cc yamaha waverunner engine tear down engine diagnosis blown head gasket
I got mine rebuilt and running. I ran it on the drive for about 10sec without water just to see if it would start. Then I attached the garden hose and let her run for about 20 minutes with water flow and variable low RPMs (1000-3000rpm). Then I let her cool down for 20-30 minutes and then fired her back up with water and took her through some higher RPM run-ups and downs. Took it to full red-line a few times. She ran great. That afternoon I took her to the lake and ran her out for a good hour or so. She ran great the entire time. Thanks for all the teardown tips. When you make the rebuild video, it will help a lot of people like me even more. NOTE: A couple of "heads up" notes after rebuild. Put the sensors on the engine before you install the engine. The heatswitch that mounts on the side of the engine block under the exhaust manifold is IMPOSSIBLE to put on once the exhaust manifold is in place. I missed that one and it's not fun taking the exhaust manifold off again once the engine is in the watercraft. Do not not install that sensor before you mount the exhaust manifold!!! Good luck!
yeah I found out the hard way on my 2013 VX cruiser. I left the water on for about 30 seconds after shutting the engine off and whatever cylinder had a exhaust valve open filled up with water instantly. of course that prompted me to actually read the book. come to find out “do not run water to engine Unless the engine running first” then shut the water off first Then make sure you blip the throttle to clear any excess water out of the system before turning off Engine 🤪 luckily I caught my mistake immediately and didn’t let it sit to rust.👍
Yup. I just realized your turn on process. The pressure is too high from the tap if the engine is not running.... If there had been a longer leak you would have found water in the oil reservoir too. But these are great videos. Mine dropped a spark plug core into one cylinder so I need to break it down and see what's up. Thanks for the walk through for that.
@@flylivin Naw, no 4th video as he screwed up his engine by not following the owners manual, then excessively yapped and repeated himself for 3 videos like he knew what he was doing, he even had a presentation board to explain his findings in 2 colors! then at the end gave up and parked the waverunner.. A typical "I know nothing what I'm doing" youtube video.. Then he has all these lost sheep that follow his chanel and ask his advice for diagnostics of their PWC problems and guidence for their carriers?... Yikes!.. He can't figure out his own problems but he can gude you to yours?.. There are SO MANY TESTS that you can do to determine the cause of this issue without taking the engine apart that this guy didn't do and just blindly ripped the engine out and apart, cluelessly guessing all the way... And he has, and runs a buisness?..... Yikes again! Real repair shops make a lot of money from these "I no nothing what I'm doing" shade tree mechanics... I had a good laugh listening to this clown, especially when he used his flat screwdriver to tap on his laptop screen during his lessons which is now scratched and chipped. 😆 💥 💫
Great job Pete. Your analysis and diagnosis is a lot like what I go thru. It sux that it was the oil cooler - completely external to the engine. Tough but at least what you found makes total sense. This is one for the books!
I think we all know how your water go in there from your flushing procedure. It’s very important on these to not only turn the water on AFTER starting the engine, but to turn the water off (and remove the hose) from the flush port and give her a couple revs to force the water out of the system. I even do this after I pull the skis out of the water. I’ll give them one more crank and a rev just to ensure that. The oil being in the exhaust is very likely from having too much oil in the tank. Many people freak out when they take the “dipstick” out and see nothing on it. THIS IS COMPLETELY NORMAL for a VX110 that has been sitting up for a while. As scary as it sounds, you have to crank it (start engine, water on, bring up to temp for 3-5 minutes or so at idle, water off, couple quick revs to push water out). After all that, THEN you check your oil level. Ive seen checking the oil level on these dry sump systems mess with even the best mechanics out there just from lack of knowledge of the system.
Hi Pete, thanks for these videos, i just picked up a VX110 and these videos were very helpful to understand the engine components. Hope you got your ski back on the water.
Cut the oil filter open. See if it has metal that was captured. If it has a high volume of metal in it. Your problem is in the lower unit. Also check the crank seals front and rear. As oil can enter the system mixed with water from the cooling system. You can also order the gasket adhesive from Yamaha. As it is application specific.
Water can get into the cylinders if you were to flush the engine with the hose before the engine is on. If you turn on the water before you start your engine, the water from the hose can fill the exhaust and back its way up into the to where the valves are and leak into the engine since there are 2 valves open at all times. I had a problem with water in the engine on my fx 160. live and learn
@@PetesGarage That was definitely the cause. Always always always start the engine first then water on. Lucky not more damage but you stopped everything quickly enough
Man there are a lot of hidden bolts holding the oil tank on.... I thought I would never find them all even with the service manual in hand. Then there are those six bolts on the bottom edge of the exhaust manifold. I thought I would never see those. I don't have a hoist. So getting in those tight clearance areas with a wrench has been a challenge to my knuckles! LOL! But I would have never been brave enough to start this project without your videos. Thanks.
@@stonefingers111 thanks! I put mine back in with the exhaust manifold on too. We had to take the oil filter back off to get it in to. Loweredit in a few inches and then put the oil filter back on before we dropped it into place. Still getting the intake manifold and a few hoses on and I should be running again. Fingers crossed. It's getting warm here in Texas!
As always beat you take the time out to explain things in your videos thank you for that and I look forward to finding out what's wrong with your WaveRunner
100% you ran the hose on the ski with the engine off, water filled the exhaust and travelled into exhaust and entered the cylinder head. this is why they tell you to not run water through the cooling system in a jetski when the engine is off. expensive lesson, but great video!
depending on how much water was in the exhaust already, if the water is running without the engine running water builds up in the exhaust and gets into the cylinders through open valves, and with the cam overlap can actually draw water in faster. 15 seconds is a fairly long time. also that model has been known to stick rings and getting some blowby. if you need a hand with anything related to jetski engines let me know, i do lots of these engines, I'm actually pulling one out early this week, low comp
ryejetski I have a similar engine specifically the one from an sx230HO. I can’t trust my dealership and there really aren’t many places in Vegas who can help me. I just did a compression test which found that all cylinders but the 3rd are running normal. I saw that the 3rd cylinder was running at over 300psi an when cranked without a spark plug in it sprayed a brownish liquid which seems to be water mixed with oil. What lead me to this point was oil in the intake manifold plus the oil dip stick kept showing that the oil levels were much higher then the full mark after running but before the oil level was just barely visible on the stick. Have you ever ran into an issue like this or have suggestions.
I'm having a similar problem. When I started my Waverunner last weekend, it was hydro-locked. I removed the coils & plugs and cycled the engine to clear the cylinders. Clean the plugs reinstalled everything and it started fine, but, without being connected to water. After putting the Waverunner in the lake, it started & ran fine, but, then quickly shut down. I noticed the plugs were fouled and there was water in the oil reservoir. Therefore, I drained the oil/water and cleaned the plugs. Once again it started, but, then quickly shut down. Noticed again there was water in the oil. Took the Waverunner to a shop. Btw, my Waverunner is stored outside in northern Michigan. Thinking I may need to store it in an enclosure with some heat...
@@PetesGarage Really interested in the conclusion to this series...I bought a second hand VX1100B....learned a great deal on how this engine works...just hope you solved your issue...and are enjoying your Ski again. Cheers from Aus
@pdemaroi did you ever solve you similar problem "water in the oil reservoir"? I have the same issue minus shutting down or any loss of performance, 4 oil changes still getting milkey.
Hi pdemaroi I have the same issue, found water in the oil, engine total stripped all seals and gaskets are fine, nothing cracked, what did you found on your Waverunner?
Yei , if you don´t have crack´s on that and you have problems with water and oil, change the head gasket, the exaust gaskets for water. Change the piston ring´s and the valve seal´s for oil. All this parts because you don´t have 100% sure, but you have two fluids to assure your problem. Good Luck
Start the engine and then turn on the water if your running it on a garden hose. Or water will enter the cylinders everytime it back flows through the exhaust. And the cause of oil in the intake ports is from over filling the oil sump always run the engine for 10 to 15 minutes before checking the oil level they will always show low oil on the dip stick when the engine is cold.
Great videos. I have a new to me vx110 that has 50psi in #2 and over 150 in the others. I have the valve cover off and found all the valves are free. With all the valves on 2 closed and I apply compressed air into the spark plug hole I can hear air escaping out the coolant fitting on the head. I'm assuming a blown head gasket and will remove the head soon to find out. could be a crack too, but I'm hopeful it's the gasket. Motor is out of the ski and I assume the oil res has to come off to remove the head. Also have water in the oil, but could have been like that when I got it. Keep up the great work.
Nice videos Pete, thanks for taking the time to make these. Really good stuff here. Looking forward to the updates. Got several projects myself I've been putting on hold, don't know how I'd find the time to make videos while trying to do all of them tho. Kudos to you good sir!
@@PetesGarage where is the next video? Part Four? Also, do you have a video or taking the valves out? I've never done that, but I'm pretty certain I will need to. I had a spark plug core drop out into one of the cylinders. Also, where did you find the exploded engine diagrams. Thanks so much.
Water got into your cylinders by turning the water hose on before starting the engine, once the engine was started in Hydraulic it’s pushed oil through the valve guides
looks to me like a "freeze-problem". There is allways somewhere some water left.. Therefore I use a "Frost-Wächter". Thats an electical heater device keeping the temps just above freezing level (within the engine compartment of my oldtimer boats). I am very interessted to follow your progress with that engine. Thanks for the open information. It is tricky..
Pete, yes it was from running the water with the engine off. Many make that mistake. I hold the dealers responsible for not giving a post delivery training on how to take care of your new ski. The water filled the exhaust then back flowed through the exhaust valve. That's how the water was in the cylinders. That being said please continue with the rebuild on the engine. Covering assembly and valve adjustment IAW the manual steps please.
Also check oil cooler. Probably frost damage here, causing the oil to force its way into the cooling line over to the exhaust manifold. Pair this with a damaged head gasket, and i think youre on it... :-)
What is the website you were on that showed you all the specific parts that it looked like you could order when you were explaining all the parts for the valves ? I am trying to find part numbers to order for my 2006 Yamaha VX110 and it's engine parts specifically.
Crikey Pete...That's a curly one...The lack of contamination between the oil and water is strange...None of the cylinders have moved have they.?..That would account for the water but not the oil in the manifolds....I'm keen to see what you find.
This is the root cause problem to solve: Took the craft out of the water and ran it to clear water. It ran fine. It sat over winter, covered. This happened at first start up. What could possibly happen to cause the failure? I'm assuming something froze, but is that wrong? How can you put something that works away, then take it out to use it and it is broken. It does not make any sense.
***** It happens more then people think. We used to get 20-30 every year with blown seals, cracked blocks, seized cranks etc.. All because someone didn't properly winterize it or they submarined it and tried to start it. As you have to remove the plugs and crank it over first. That way all water is removed from the cylinders. That the air filter let in or from the carburetors intake. We used fogging oil and a mixer of antifreeze and water to flush the system. Sprayed the outside or the engine with storage oil. Removed the battery and filled the tank with fuel stabilizer. I never had one fail when it come time to prepare it for use. It's all in the details. I think you also have two problems now. Not just one. Look close inside the intake and exhaust. pipes. Maybe even block off the ends. Then pressure test each runner. See if you find any water or air leaking through the walls.
You hydro locked it when you turned the water on first before turning the engine over. Stern drives require water before start but the opposite is true for jet boats such as a wave runner. You must start the engine then turn on water.
hi I have a 2006 Yamaha Waverunner VX110 Sport, in isn't Chargeing the Battery, in is that normal to have oil in the Generator comeporment, because I found oil in the Generator comeporment, i thought the Generator comeporment should be dry, can you give me feedback on this?
ryejetski Maybe 15 seconds. After that I cleaned out the plugs and cylinders and it started up. It ran fine then I turned the water on. Oil was in the water and steam coming out the exhaust from burning in the engine
***** depending on how much water was in the exhaust already, if the water is running without the engine running water builds up in the exhaust and gets into the cylinders through open valves, and with the cam overlap can actually draw water in faster. 15 seconds is a fairly long time. also that model has been known to stick rings and getting some blowby. if you need a hand with anything related to jetski engines let me know, i do lots of these engines, I'm actually pulling one out early this week, low comp
@@bigblock1968impala do you make videos too? Those of us with wrenches and little $$ in the pocket could use all the jetski repair videos possible. There really are not many out there for Yamaha Waverunners of this 2005ish vintage. Thanks.
this is over my head but i'm finding it very interesting....cant wait to see what you find out. i have a sneaky suspicion when you decided to make a video series out of this you were expected a simple problem and a simple fix? :)
@@PetesGarage Ahhh, I must have missed something. I thought Vedeo 3 ended with you sending the head out to be checked and there would be a continuation when it came back. The eason I'm tasing about this is I'm compemplating buying a vehicle with a 1500 Hayabusa engine and figured I'd take the opportunity to learn a little inadvance. Thanks, catch ya on your next video!
Check the air filter if it has oil on it you over filled it with oil and it will suck it into the intake, water in cylinders , you turn on the garden hose before you started the engine, there is nothing wrong with the engine
Pete, was this watercraft towed (over 5PMH) dead in the water? Generally the jet pump is used to feed the water into engine via the exhaust system and head inlets you showed in the earlier videos. If the ski is towed dead in the water fast enough, water still flows through the pump, into the feed lines, and backfills the exhaust via the exhaust cooling ports and into the cylinders? Also, the same goes for when the ski is started on a trailer using a flushing system. If the ski sits not running with the hose hooked up and running, it filld the exhaust system with water and can get into cylinders via open valves, hence only a few cylinders show washing. For instance, if they hooked up the hose, turned the hose on, and sat there trying to prep the ski for starting, or it didnt start right away and they left the hose running, this could happen potentially?
Could be, especially if the hose was left on for an extended period of time. Again, I do not know the exact water routing of that engine, or how the exhaust is cooled, but it could be that if no other problems were found.
I’m looking for the fourth installment of this series to see where you found the problem. Did you ever find it? I’m having the same issue and the head gasket does not look bad but not perfect either. I’m wondering did someone run the engine and then cut it off while the hose was still running. The head is flat and the block surface is flat as well. Where else could it be coming from?
@@emoreno101 It has been a low priority project, and I didn’t want to put a lot into it since it was given to me by a friend who didn’t know how to go about fixing it. The jet engine has not run in 10 years BUT despite having water in it, the engine still turned over. The crankshaft appears to be stainless steel and was perfect. The pistons were a different story. The rings has welded themselves to the pistons and could not be reused. The bores were pitted enough that I had to spring for a set of WSM pistons at .25mm oversized. I took them to the machine shop and had to pay $190 for a bore and hone job plus checking the block for cracks. Just got it back and need to reassemble.
What are the chances that when water froze it stretched the head bolts? Then with a loose head it created a small enough gap allowing the oil to go wherever it wanted either over or under the head gasket; essentially bypassing the gasket without breaking it.
pulled head the hard way. one "bad" exhaust valve. it was stuck open. Pulled valve and it had buildup and rust on the stem. Debating on cleaning it up or replacing valve stem seal
yo pete, i loved your engine building series and i learned alot, but your car is not only your engine. so if you could make a tranmission, brake, ect. episodes. thnks
Hi, have you considered that it could be an oil cooler failure (as well as what you already mentioned)? I would think that maybe the oil mixes with the water and and causes problems when circulated. then again you said the oil didnt look hydrated so my theory may be totally wrong..
turning on water before starting engine explains water and hydrolock. Did you fog the cylinders when you winterized it? Fogging the engine could explain the oil.
Pete's Garage I’ve just purchased one that is immaculate condition, 140 hours. The guy took it for a service and mechanic has noticed water in oil? Compression tests are all good and even? I’m going to try change oil a few times to rid any residual contaminated oil in engine and if that doesn’t fix it then pressure test oil cooler. Fingers crossed it’s not a head gasket or cracked head?
Hai Pete, The water you noticed was during the engine was still in the hull of the jetski or also during testing the engine outside the watercraft? With a proper test of the engine by starting the engine and after a few seconds open the waterline and let it run for a while, then close the waterline and let it run for a few seconds and then turn of the engine. There should not be any water in the oil or where the compression takes place. If there is there is Obvious something wrong.A known failure of this watercraft is the sealing of the drive shaft, after running the engine and keep the watercraft into the water it will leak a lot of water (by pressure of the water outside) into the hull, If there is no seperate bilge pump to hose the water out of the watercraft and you will start the engine after a while, the water will be sucked by the air intake into the engine and will cause serious problems.It can be one of the possible reasons why this occure otherwise you have to investigate the engine on other failures.Thanks for your you tube topics, they are awesome, keep on doing these, you help a lot of people with them.Best regards,Denny from Amsterdam
A pitty of all the work you spent on the engine, Four stroke engines and watercrafts are not such a good combination unless you are very carefull with the water entering the watercraft and the damage it can cause to the engine. There are more possible causes like the cooling hose that sucks water from back of the pump to the exhaust and engine which is constructed too low without any loop or high level point. after shut of the engine the cooling water will still push the water through the exhaust upwards inside the engine.Even a bad circulation of fresh air while not running can cause serious problems to the engine if stored for a while when there is any water in the watercraft.I hope it will run good and for a long time without any problems after reassembled everything.Good Luck, Denny.
@@PetesGarage I've got it out and the crank case cracked open. The spark plug core that dropped into the cylinder pretty much trashed the top ohf the piston. The piston skirt is pretty buggered up too. The cylinder wall has some vertical scoring. I'll get a hone in it tomorrow. We'll see if that can get it clean enough again or not.
Buddy, when you connecting water to the engine you must start the engine first and when the engine is running then turn on water. If you do it like you did, you will get engine flooded. Exactly what you got! You need to drain all the oil, pour in some break cleaner or kerosene to dry the engine. Then fill it up with new oil.
Pete... you turned on the water then turned on the engine??? You have to turn on the engine first thats HOW you hydrolock an engine. Just heard you say that in your video. It's my understanding that's how you fill up the cylinders with water maybe I'm missing something.
Where did you find the coolant? I have a 4tech seadoo and had coolant in the system leaking through the pto. Funny enough it's a closed loop and I just heard you say as I type you dont have a closed loop system lol. Interesting. Nice video.
Hi Pete, I have a 2002 Yamaha Fx140 and it is burning 2qts of oil every 1/2 hour. Any ideas? Smoking very bad from exhaust. I'm going to tear it down soon before I do, any advise?
did you have the video when you got this motor turn on back again to life ?? did you put new oring piston and do the torque head unit video.......let me know if you got it to see that one.. an Thanks a lot
I am almost sure you over filled it with oil, When you check oil , You have to start and let it run for 30-40 seconds ( you don't need to have it on the garden hose for short runs) then check oil and the oil should be a tad on the low side not to the full mark
Hey Pete! I miss your engine building series. I know you have a lot of work and the cobra had to be put aside. But, do you have any other references that I may stumble upon. I recently bought a 1996 cobra block and Im definitely going to need some guidance. Thank you Pete you're the best.
***** Awesome! Thank you. I just want to get to point where you had that Chevy block in part 11. I want to know what to do after installing the throttle bodies. I know I can look that up. But I'd prefer your in depth informative videos. I do learn a lot from it. And YES I will definitely rewatch the 11 videos. Thank you Pete!!
I got mine rebuilt and running. I ran it on the drive for about 10sec without water just to see if it would start. Then I attached the garden hose and let her run for about 20 minutes with water flow and variable low RPMs (1000-3000rpm). Then I let her cool down for 20-30 minutes and then fired her back up with water and took her through some higher RPM run-ups and downs. Took it to full red-line a few times. She ran great. That afternoon I took her to the lake and ran her out for a good hour or so. She ran great the entire time. Thanks for all the teardown tips. When you make the rebuild video, it will help a lot of people like me even more. NOTE: A couple of "heads up" notes after rebuild. Put the sensors on the engine before you install the engine. The heatswitch that mounts on the side of the engine block under the exhaust manifold is IMPOSSIBLE to put on once the exhaust manifold is in place. I missed that one and it's not fun taking the exhaust manifold off again once the engine is in the watercraft. Do not not install that sensor before you mount the exhaust manifold!!! Good luck!
Great tip, thanks Greg
you should never turn on the water befor starting the engine. water can get in the engine trough the exhaust if the engine is not running....
+tingovida107 Now ya tell me....lol
yeah I found out the hard way on my 2013 VX cruiser. I left the water on for about 30 seconds after shutting the engine off and whatever cylinder had a exhaust valve open filled up with water instantly. of course that prompted me to actually read the book. come to find out “do not run water to engine Unless the engine running first” then shut the water off first Then make sure you blip the throttle to clear any excess water out of the system before turning off Engine 🤪 luckily I caught my mistake immediately and didn’t let it sit to rust.👍
Yup. I just realized your turn on process. The pressure is too high from the tap if the engine is not running.... If there had been a longer leak you would have found water in the oil reservoir too.
But these are great videos. Mine dropped a spark plug core into one cylinder so I need to break it down and see what's up. Thanks for the walk through for that.
is there a part 4? I can only find 1-3. these are great videos I'm having same issue on the same ski. thanks
@@flylivin Naw, no 4th video as he screwed up his engine by not following the owners manual, then excessively yapped and repeated himself for 3 videos like he knew what he was doing, he even had a presentation board to explain his findings in 2 colors! then at the end gave up and parked the waverunner.. A typical "I know nothing what I'm doing" youtube video..
Then he has all these lost sheep that follow his chanel and ask his advice for diagnostics of their PWC problems and guidence for their carriers?... Yikes!.. He can't figure out his own problems but he can gude you to yours?..
There are SO MANY TESTS that you can do to determine the cause of this issue without taking the engine apart that this guy didn't do and just blindly ripped the engine out and apart, cluelessly guessing all the way... And he has, and runs a buisness?..... Yikes again!
Real repair shops make a lot of money from these "I no nothing what I'm doing" shade tree mechanics...
I had a good laugh listening to this clown, especially when he used his flat screwdriver to tap on his laptop screen during his lessons which is now scratched and chipped. 😆 💥 💫
Great job Pete. Your analysis and diagnosis is a lot like what I go thru. It sux that it was the oil cooler - completely external to the engine. Tough but at least what you found makes total sense. This is one for the books!
Yeah....it's a tad more complex than a motorcycle, but interesting nonetheless.
I really appreciate this video series. I've got my last bit of parts coming in today and ill be able to put my engine back together. Thanks!
Good luck
I think we all know how your water go in there from your flushing procedure. It’s very important on these to not only turn the water on AFTER starting the engine, but to turn the water off (and remove the hose) from the flush port and give her a couple revs to force the water out of the system. I even do this after I pull the skis out of the water. I’ll give them one more crank and a rev just to ensure that. The oil being in the exhaust is very likely from having too much oil in the tank. Many people freak out when they take the “dipstick” out and see nothing on it. THIS IS COMPLETELY NORMAL for a VX110 that has been sitting up for a while. As scary as it sounds, you have to crank it (start engine, water on, bring up to temp for 3-5 minutes or so at idle, water off, couple quick revs to push water out). After all that, THEN you check your oil level. Ive seen checking the oil level on these dry sump systems mess with even the best mechanics out there just from lack of knowledge of the system.
What a great comment, thank you
@@PetesGarage no problem, Pete! Don’t ask me how I know! I did the same stuff!
Hi Pete, thanks for these videos, i just picked up a VX110 and these videos were very helpful to understand the engine components. Hope you got your ski back on the water.
I'm working on it, thanks JM
Great Job Pete, I am looking forward to seeing the rest of the rebuild. Thank you for the video.
I'm getting there
Cut the oil filter open. See if it has metal that was captured. If it has a high volume of metal in it. Your problem is in the lower unit. Also check the crank seals front and rear. As oil can enter the system mixed with water from the cooling system.
You can also order the gasket adhesive from Yamaha. As it is application specific.
Claude Rains Those are my next steps......Thanks for watching and helping me
Water can get into the cylinders if you were to flush the engine with the hose before the engine is on. If you turn on the water before you start your engine, the water from the hose can fill the exhaust and back its way up into the to where the valves are and leak into the engine since there are 2 valves open at all times. I had a problem with water in the engine on my fx 160. live and learn
+Chris Devone I'm beginning to think more and more that may have been the root cause
@@PetesGarage That was definitely the cause. Always always always start the engine first then water on. Lucky not more damage but you stopped everything quickly enough
Man there are a lot of hidden bolts holding the oil tank on.... I thought I would never find them all even with the service manual in hand. Then there are those six bolts on the bottom edge of the exhaust manifold. I thought I would never see those. I don't have a hoist. So getting in those tight clearance areas with a wrench has been a challenge to my knuckles! LOL! But I would have never been brave enough to start this project without your videos. Thanks.
I think it's easier to just take the engine out. But, that's another couple hours of work.
@@PetesGarage Can one get the engine in/out without taking the exhaust manifold off? I did not think it would come through...
I think it has to come off
@@GDFred88 I know it's late but it does come out with the manifold still on. Just had to remove the oil filter to sneak the motor out.
@@stonefingers111 thanks! I put mine back in with the exhaust manifold on too. We had to take the oil filter back off to get it in to. Loweredit in a few inches and then put the oil filter back on before we dropped it into place. Still getting the intake manifold and a few hoses on and I should be running again. Fingers crossed. It's getting warm here in Texas!
Awesome videos Pete, thank you. Like many others, I'm dying to see how this turns out and learn how to put everything back together.
Thanks Jeff...me too
@@PetesGarage Love these videos. So we don't have an answer about the status of your cylinder head yet? Looking forward to it!
As always beat you take the time out to explain things in your videos thank you for that and I look forward to finding out what's wrong with your WaveRunner
Jonny Vance I'm trying to help my friend
100% you ran the hose on the ski with the engine off,
water filled the exhaust and travelled into exhaust and entered the cylinder head.
this is why they tell you to not run water through the cooling system in a jetski when the engine is off.
expensive lesson, but great video!
Expensive lesson indeed
Start engine first, then turn on water. Nice video
Thanks for the tip!
I would be looking at the exhaust manifold and riser for cracks or gasket leak. Another easy way for water to get into cylinders if it froze
depending on how much water was in the exhaust already, if the water is running without the engine running water builds up in the exhaust and gets into the cylinders through open valves, and with the cam overlap can actually draw water in faster. 15 seconds is a fairly long time. also that model has been known to stick rings and getting some blowby.
if you need a hand with anything related to jetski engines let me know, i do lots of these engines, I'm actually pulling one out early this week, low comp
ryejetski Thank you....it's pretty straight forward so far.
ryejetski I have a similar engine specifically the one from an sx230HO. I can’t trust my dealership and there really aren’t many places in Vegas who can help me. I just did a compression test which found that all cylinders but the 3rd are running normal. I saw that the 3rd cylinder was running at over 300psi an when cranked without a spark plug in it sprayed a brownish liquid which seems to be water mixed with oil. What lead me to this point was oil in the intake manifold plus the oil dip stick kept showing that the oil levels were much higher then the full mark after running but before the oil level was just barely visible on the stick. Have you ever ran into an issue like this or have suggestions.
I'm having a similar problem. When I started my Waverunner last weekend, it was hydro-locked. I removed the coils & plugs and cycled the engine to clear the cylinders. Clean the plugs reinstalled everything and it started fine, but, without being connected to water. After putting the Waverunner in the lake, it started & ran fine, but, then quickly shut down. I noticed the plugs were fouled and there was water in the oil reservoir. Therefore, I drained the oil/water and cleaned the plugs. Once again it started, but, then quickly shut down. Noticed again there was water in the oil. Took the Waverunner to a shop. Btw, my Waverunner is stored outside in northern Michigan. Thinking I may need to store it in an enclosure with some heat...
I wish I found a definitive reason why it does that. I have not put it together yet but I will report when I do
@@PetesGarage Really interested in the conclusion to this series...I bought a second hand VX1100B....learned a great deal on how this engine works...just hope you solved your issue...and are enjoying your Ski again. Cheers from Aus
@pdemaroi did you ever solve you similar problem "water in the oil reservoir"? I have the same issue minus shutting down or any loss of performance, 4 oil changes still getting milkey.
Hi pdemaroi I have the same issue, found water in the oil, engine total stripped all seals and gaskets are fine, nothing cracked, what did you found on your Waverunner?
Yei , if you don´t have crack´s on that and you have problems with water and oil, change the head gasket, the exaust gaskets for water. Change the piston ring´s and the valve seal´s for oil. All this parts because you don´t have 100% sure, but you have two fluids to assure your problem. Good Luck
Start the engine and then turn on the water if your running it on a garden hose. Or water will enter the cylinders everytime it back flows through the exhaust. And the cause of oil in the intake ports is from over filling the oil sump always run the engine for 10 to 15 minutes before checking the oil level they will always show low oil on the dip stick when the engine is cold.
Christian Farwick That is awesome info...thank you very much
Great videos. I have a new to me vx110 that has 50psi in #2 and over 150 in the others. I have the valve cover off and found all the valves are free. With all the valves on 2 closed and I apply compressed air into the spark plug hole I can hear air escaping out the coolant fitting on the head. I'm assuming a blown head gasket and will remove the head soon to find out. could be a crack too, but I'm hopeful it's the gasket. Motor is out of the ski and I assume the oil res has to come off to remove the head. Also have water in the oil, but could have been like that when I got it.
Keep up the great work.
Good luck
Great video wheres part 4 lol
I'm working on it...seems like forever
Nice videos Pete, thanks for taking the time to make these. Really good stuff here. Looking forward to the updates. Got several projects myself I've been putting on hold, don't know how I'd find the time to make videos while trying to do all of them tho. Kudos to you good sir!
Thank you my friend
7.18.15. A very intriguing video series on your jet ski engine trouble! 🙈🙉🙊 looking forward to your finding the cause!
Steven Sapyak I'm trying to figure it out.....cars are so much more easy
@@PetesGarage where is the next video? Part Four? Also, do you have a video or taking the valves out? I've never done that, but I'm pretty certain I will need to. I had a spark plug core drop out into one of the cylinders. Also, where did you find the exploded engine diagrams. Thanks so much.
Water got into your cylinders by turning the water hose on before starting the engine, once the engine was started in Hydraulic it’s pushed oil through the valve guides
Absolutely
looks to me like a "freeze-problem". There is allways somewhere some water left.. Therefore I use a "Frost-Wächter". Thats an electical heater device keeping the temps just above freezing level (within the engine compartment of my oldtimer boats).
I am very interessted to follow your progress with that engine. Thanks for the open information. It is tricky..
Martin Kaufmann Thanks Martin...I'm still trying to figure it out
Let’s get this ski back together!
I'm with ya, maybe this summer
Pete, yes it was from running the water with the engine off. Many make that mistake. I hold the dealers responsible for not giving a post delivery training on how to take care of your new ski.
The water filled the exhaust then back flowed through the exhaust valve. That's how the water was in the cylinders.
That being said please continue with the rebuild on the engine. Covering assembly and valve adjustment IAW the manual steps please.
Thank you very much
The hunt is on. Tough one.
Also check oil cooler. Probably frost damage here, causing the oil to force its way into the cooling line over to the exhaust manifold. Pair this with a damaged head gasket, and i think youre on it... :-)
alsosteikje I think you're right...
WHERE'S PART 4, I wanna see if the marks u did to line up worked . Thanks
I didn't make part 4 yet, I simply haven't had time
part 3!, please!
Still working on it
muy bueno .keep up the good work
What is the website you were on that showed you all the specific parts that it looked like you could order when you were explaining all the parts for the valves ? I am trying to find part numbers to order for my 2006 Yamaha VX110 and it's engine parts specifically.
www.yamahapartshouse.com/
Great vid, just got a ski with this eng. easily pushed the sub icon.
Thanks and welcome Jeffrey
Any update on the jet ski rebuild? Thanks again!
Sorry, there is not. I actually sold it
I know this was 8 years ago, but I just saw it as I'm looking at an 05 vx110 that isn't running. Was it the oil/water separator?
no, there were no cracks in any parts
Crikey Pete...That's a curly one...The lack of contamination between the oil and water is strange...None of the cylinders have moved have they.?..That would account for the water but not the oil in the manifolds....I'm keen to see what you find.
This is the root cause problem to solve: Took the craft out of the water and ran it to clear water. It ran fine. It sat over winter, covered. This happened at first start up. What could possibly happen to cause the failure? I'm assuming something froze, but is that wrong? How can you put something that works away, then take it out to use it and it is broken. It does not make any sense.
***** It happens more then people think. We used to get 20-30 every year with blown seals, cracked blocks, seized cranks etc.. All because someone didn't properly winterize it or they submarined it and tried to start it. As you have to remove the plugs and crank it over first. That way all water is removed from the cylinders. That the air filter let in or from the carburetors intake.
We used fogging oil and a mixer of antifreeze and water to flush the system. Sprayed the outside or the engine with storage oil. Removed the battery and filled the tank with fuel stabilizer. I never had one fail when it come time to prepare it for use. It's all in the details.
I think you also have two problems now. Not just one. Look close inside the intake and exhaust. pipes. Maybe even block off the ends. Then pressure test each runner. See if you find any water or air leaking through the walls.
So what was the end result with this engine? I don't see the follow up or the fix video.
I'm starting to put it back together
Is there an update video on this jet ski? Im having the same problems with mine.
I did not find anything broken, I think it was back fed through the exhaust.
you turned on the water too soon, next time first start the engine then turn on the water.
You're right
@@PetesGarage 7
very nicely down but what was the final outcome for the head, Was it cracked and did you replace it.
I didn't get to it yet, but nothing was cracked
Very very appreciate this video thank you !!!!! 👍
No problem 👍
check if the block and/or cylinderhead is distorted it could be the shelve that has fallen down in the block
Great idea!
Is there a Part 4? I can't find it. Thanks
There is not......yet
@@PetesGarage I was looking too, mine does not turn....completely lock....
Hey Pete. I’m trying to find video number 4 on rebuild on Yamaha fx140 on UA-cam. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
I didn't make 4, sorry
where did you download the service manual? im looking for fxho 1100 manual
From a parts website I think
Jul 18, 2015, you started wow.
hope you can find all the parts!
goodluck
It's a common engine
Sooooooo.... what was the issue??? I looked for part 4 and there isn't one
I found nothing wrong
Love your videos
William Neigum Thank you my friend
Hi I'm having the same problem with my engine. did you find out why there was water and the cylinders?
Because I turned the water on first
You hydro locked it when you turned the water on first before turning the engine over. Stern drives require water before start but the opposite is true for jet boats such as a wave runner. You must start the engine then turn on water.
You're right
hi I have a 2006 Yamaha Waverunner VX110 Sport, in isn't Chargeing the Battery, in is that normal to have oil in the Generator comeporment, because I found oil in the Generator comeporment, i thought the Generator comeporment should be dry, can you give me feedback on this?
The generators do wear out
I'm no mechanic (as my bike will attest to) but I was thinking the oil res was the source of the problem.
+rs72143 I think you're right.....more to come
did you have water running for a length of time without the engine running?
ryejetski Maybe 15 seconds. After that I cleaned out the plugs and cylinders and it started up. It ran fine then I turned the water on. Oil was in the water and steam coming out the exhaust from burning in the engine
***** depending on how much water was in the exhaust already, if the water is
running without the engine running water builds up in the exhaust and
gets into the cylinders through open valves, and with the cam overlap
can actually draw water in faster. 15 seconds is a fairly long time.
also that model has been known to stick rings and getting some blowby.
if you need a hand with anything related to jetski engines let me know, i
do lots of these engines, I'm actually pulling one out early this week,
low comp
ryejetski I'm thinking you are right because I have found nothing wrong inside the engine
@@bigblock1968impala do you make videos too? Those of us with wrenches and little $$ in the pocket could use all the jetski repair videos possible. There really are not many out there for Yamaha Waverunners of this 2005ish vintage. Thanks.
@@GDFred88 ill be soon doing a rebuild of a 2006 fxho, ill see if i can get something done then
this is over my head but i'm finding it very interesting....cant wait to see what you find out. i have a sneaky suspicion when you decided to make a video series out of this you were expected a simple problem and a simple fix? :)
Not necessarily....I was expecting to find something a bit more concrete
hey Pete, Did you ever put this back together? Can't find the video
I did not
@PetesGarage oh damm. In the process of rebuilding 1 atm
Pete, how are you doing? Been a while. So whatever happened to the Yamaha 1100 engine after video 3? What was the problem? Head gasket?
There was nothing wrong with it, I just sold it
@@PetesGarage Ahhh, I must have missed something. I thought Vedeo 3 ended with you sending the head out to be checked and there would be a continuation when it came back. The eason I'm tasing about this is I'm compemplating buying a vehicle with a 1500 Hayabusa engine and figured I'd take the opportunity to learn a little inadvance. Thanks, catch ya on your next video!
Never hook up water to engine before engine is running! water will back up into the cylinders and hydro lock.
You're right
Check the air filter if it has oil on it you over filled it with oil and it will suck it into the intake, water in cylinders , you turn on the garden hose before you started the engine, there is nothing wrong with the engine
That is what I thought, but I did find a crack in the oil cooler
Pete, was this watercraft towed (over 5PMH) dead in the water? Generally the jet pump is used to feed the water into engine via the exhaust system and head inlets you showed in the earlier videos. If the ski is towed dead in the water fast enough, water still flows through the pump, into the feed lines, and backfills the exhaust via the exhaust cooling ports and into the cylinders? Also, the same goes for when the ski is started on a trailer using a flushing system. If the ski sits not running with the hose hooked up and running, it filld the exhaust system with water and can get into cylinders via open valves, hence only a few cylinders show washing.
For instance, if they hooked up the hose, turned the hose on, and sat there trying to prep the ski for starting, or it didnt start right away and they left the hose running, this could happen potentially?
+Paczowski123 It was not towed, nut the hose was turned on first. That is what happend I think
Could be, especially if the hose was left on for an extended period of time. Again, I do not know the exact water routing of that engine, or how the exhaust is cooled, but it could be that if no other problems were found.
Thank you so much Pete,s you helped me a lot
Thanks my frined
I’m looking for the fourth installment of this series to see where you found the problem. Did you ever find it? I’m having the same issue and the head gasket does not look bad but not perfect either. I’m wondering did someone run the engine and then cut it off while the hose was still running. The head is flat and the block surface is flat as well. Where else could it be coming from?
I did not make it yet, I did not find anything wrong. it was from running the hose with the engine off
So you just put all back and turn on for engine was damage?
@@emoreno101 It has been a low priority project, and I didn’t want to put a lot into it since it was given to me by a friend who didn’t know how to go about fixing it. The jet engine has not run in 10 years BUT despite having water in it, the engine still turned over. The crankshaft appears to be stainless steel and was perfect. The pistons were a different story. The rings has welded themselves to the pistons and could not be reused. The bores were pitted enough that I had to spring for a set of WSM pistons at .25mm oversized. I took them to the machine shop and had to pay $190 for a bore and hone job plus checking the block for cracks. Just got it back and need to reassemble.
Sir
Where is the timing mark on the crackshaft ? Please show me thank you.
The key way is the timing mark
What are the chances that when water froze it stretched the head bolts? Then with a loose head it created a small enough gap allowing the oil to go wherever it wanted either over or under the head gasket; essentially bypassing the gasket without breaking it.
That's the whole thing.....there was no water to freeze. The head was still torqued down
Hi Pete what happen with the part 4 of the video?
I will make it soon
What happen at the end with part 4 of this series of videos what was the problem the head come back crack or was just the head gasket🤔
I didn't make a part 4 because there was nothing wrong with any part of the engine
Thanks Pete for your replay im looking to see how to fix same engine with creamy oil🙈 ant help would be appreciated …
My Yamaha sx210 has this same engine. Number 4 cylinder is dead. This is the only video I can find
There aren't many
pulled head the hard way. one "bad" exhaust valve. it was stuck open. Pulled valve and it had buildup and rust on the stem. Debating on cleaning it up or replacing valve stem seal
What happened to part 4?
I'm still working on that one....i have tons of projects going on
hello, good morning, how do I know if my piston is at the top dead center of a yamaha vx, I want to put the chain, thanks
There is a manual online for free that tells you
Thanks
yo pete, i loved your engine building series and i learned alot, but your car is not only your engine. so if you could make a tranmission, brake, ect. episodes. thnks
Daniel Steinfeldt Ok....I'll do something on brakes....I usually change transmissions though
Hi, have you considered that it could be an oil cooler failure (as well as what you already mentioned)? I would think that maybe the oil mixes with the water and and causes problems when circulated. then again you said the oil didnt look hydrated so my theory may be totally wrong..
+aspyromilios I think you are right. I have found no major problems with any part so it must be in the oil cooler.
What happened to part 4??
I still have to make it...lol
@@PetesGarage Ahhhhso
@@PetesGarage I mean I see. Lol one day I goto deal with mine as well. I got no idea where I'm going to get parts from.
turning on water before starting engine explains water and hydrolock. Did you fog the cylinders when you winterized it? Fogging the engine could explain the oil.
I did not fog, I've never had a problem with the water before
I can’t find anymore videos. Did u find out the problem?
Nope, no cracks, nothing wrong. I'm still trying to put it together, just have ot find the time.
Are the rebuild and reinstall videos available yet?
They are not
What was the final diagnosis for this engine? Was it just a head gasket
?
It was not a head gasket. Water went backwards through the exhaust
Pete's Garage I’ve just purchased one that is immaculate condition, 140 hours. The guy took it for a service and mechanic has noticed water in oil? Compression tests are all good and even? I’m going to try change oil a few times to rid any residual contaminated oil in engine and if that doesn’t fix it then pressure test oil cooler. Fingers crossed it’s not a head gasket or cracked head?
That should work
Hai Pete, The water you noticed was during the engine was still in the hull of the jetski or also during testing the engine outside the watercraft? With a proper test of the engine by starting the engine and after a few seconds open the waterline and let it run for a while, then close the waterline and let it run for a few seconds and then turn of the engine. There should not be any water in the oil or where the compression takes place. If there is there is Obvious something wrong.A known failure of this watercraft is the sealing of the drive shaft, after running the engine and keep the watercraft into the water it will leak a lot of water (by pressure of the water outside) into the hull, If there is no seperate bilge pump to hose the water out of the watercraft and you will start the engine after a while, the water will be sucked by the air intake into the engine and will cause serious problems.It can be one of the possible reasons why this occure otherwise you have to investigate the engine on other failures.Thanks for your you tube topics, they are awesome, keep on doing these, you help a lot of people with them.Best regards,Denny from Amsterdam
It was an odd problem. I did not find any major problems inside the engine.
A pitty of all the work you spent on the engine, Four stroke engines and watercrafts are not such a good combination unless you are very carefull with the water entering the watercraft and the damage it can cause to the engine. There are more possible causes like the cooling hose that sucks water from back of the pump to the exhaust and engine which is constructed too low without any loop or high level point. after shut of the engine the cooling water will still push the water through the exhaust upwards inside the engine.Even a bad circulation of fresh air while not running can cause serious problems to the engine if stored for a while when there is any water in the watercraft.I hope it will run good and for a long time without any problems after reassembled everything.Good Luck, Denny.
Thanks Denny
Just fyi. The bottom manifold bolts are too long to be taken out of the manifold while it is still in the boat!
Great tip.....now pull it out...lol
@@PetesGarage I've got it out and the crank case cracked open. The spark plug core that dropped into the cylinder pretty much trashed the top ohf the piston. The piston skirt is pretty buggered up too. The cylinder wall has some vertical scoring. I'll get a hone in it tomorrow. We'll see if that can get it clean enough again or not.
Wow
so where is the video on the conclusion?
It's been awhile, but I'm getting back to it.
I can't find part 4. What was the culprit?
There was nothing wrong, coolant flowed backwards into the engine
@@PetesGarage I took the filter box out of my skis and did cool air intake and catch can for breather tube. No more oil in the intake 👍
Buddy, when you connecting water to the engine you must start the engine first and when the engine is running then turn on water. If you do it like you did, you will get engine flooded. Exactly what you got! You need to drain all the oil, pour in some break cleaner or kerosene to dry the engine. Then fill it up with new oil.
Thanks for the tip
OIL ALWAYS FLOATS ON THE TOP OF WATER... you got an oil in your exhaust because block got filled with water and oil started flowing out.
But how did it get there?
Wheres part 4? Was the issue found
I did not make it yet...there was no issue found.
Did you find water in the crankcase? Or drain any water out when you removed the oil when disassembling the engine?
No water in the crankcase.....it is puzzling
Pete... you turned on the water then turned on the engine??? You have to turn on the engine first thats HOW you hydrolock an engine. Just heard you say that in your video. It's my understanding that's how you fill up the cylinders with water maybe I'm missing something.
It was actually more than that. The oil was milky before I turned the water on.
ah...@@PetesGarage did you find a solution/original cause?
I did not
Podrías poner más mecánica de motos de agua💪💪💪
Gracias
Where did you find the coolant? I have a 4tech seadoo and had coolant in the system leaking through the pto. Funny enough it's a closed loop and I just heard you say as I type you dont have a closed loop system lol. Interesting. Nice video.
You should have did a compression test
I did , it did not show any issues
Hi Pete, I have a 2002 Yamaha Fx140 and it is burning 2qts of oil every 1/2 hour. Any ideas? Smoking very bad from exhaust. I'm going to tear it down soon before I do, any advise?
2 strokes are very different. You'll have to look at the piston very close
did you have the video when you got this motor turn on back again to life ?? did you put new oring piston and do the torque head unit video.......let me know if you got it to see that one..
an Thanks a lot
This project has waited, I will finish it soon
I am almost sure you over filled it with oil, When you check oil , You have to start and let it run for 30-40 seconds ( you don't need to have it on the garden hose for short runs) then check oil and the oil should be a tad on the low side not to the full mark
I did that, it just would not burn off the water and oil
Hi did you ever do a part 4 , I’m interested how to replace the chain tensioner , thanks 👍
Not yet
Leaves an engine rebuild vid in the middle and then doesn't complete for 5+ years.... typical mechanic...
Could you also put up a video on the bottom end
Hey Pete what happened to part 4? What did you figure out? What was wrong with the engine?
I'm getting back to that engine and will continue the series
where are the rest of the video 4,5,6,ect.
+Sierra Weiner I'm still working on those. This project got pushed to the back burner
Pete's Garage looking forward to the 4th video on your finding and how you were able to pin point the problem
when is the next video coming up ? :) i love them so much !
xQsMonkey I'm making them....the summer has been brutally hot
y u didt do part 4 & 5 6 & 7 ?
I didn't get there yet...lol
Fanks part 4 ??
I'm working on it
Did you end up getting it fixed ?
I'm getting back to it soon....it's been a long time
Magnaflux aluminum head?
No, I misspoke
Hey Pete! I miss your engine building series. I know you have a lot of work and the cobra had to be put aside. But, do you have any other references that I may stumble upon. I recently bought a 1996 cobra block and Im definitely going to need some guidance. Thank you Pete you're the best.
Gary Flores I'll do what I can to help. If you miss it you can watch again...lol
***** Awesome! Thank you. I just want to get to point where you had that Chevy block in part 11. I want to know what to do after installing the throttle bodies. I know I can look that up. But I'd prefer your in depth informative videos. I do learn a lot from it. And YES I will definitely rewatch the 11 videos. Thank you Pete!!