This is the most sophisticated engine I have ever seen-the head is all valves! After the plugs were removed and the water out of the cylinders, wouldn't a compression test given you some additional evidence that would have been useful? I'm amazed at the water cooling of the exhaust manifold.....I would think the potential for steam would always be present, and hence some kind of rupture. The casting of the block must really be a work of art, but all those channels inside could be weak points as it ages a bit. Like low oil pressure in a regular engine denoted bearing wear, I wonder if those internal channels could be pressure tested for leaks?
You said in your first video you turned the wAter on then the engine maybe that was the problem you filled engine with water just needed getting out the engine maybe?
I like to mark the chain to sprocket position too for absolute piece of mind..I'm watching..Does it have any port between the exhaust and inlet.? like for an EGR.?..I'm still going for a mouth full of water but the oil on the intake has no water,,The #1 inlet valves are a bit washed but did the water get in thru the exhaust perhaps.?
G’day Pete,…… hope your well 😊…….. Mate at 1:20 sec in your video you were taking the head cover off the engine. That cooling pipe in the way. Did you have to unbolt it and wriggle it out before the cover came off. Got the same situation. I took out the bolt , but it’s stuck fast. Can I “tap” and spray to get it loose. Cheers , once again you have been helpful to thousands. 😊🌈🍀🍀🍀👍
Off subject-but-would really like your input: I'm having a new long block installed in my '87 jeep Comanche , all other current engine parts will be used to complete the new engine. Question : Should I have the new block painted and should all the current parts be cleaned and painted also. Is the added cost worth it ? Or will the new engine be OK without the paint. My budget is very limited. Thanks in advance. Your videos are GREAT
AreWeEverThere The only thing that needs to be clean are the mating parts and o-ring surfaces. Painting looks nice but does not add to the function. You will be fine without it
Hey pete wondering if i could get your opinion on something im building a .040 over 351w with a stock stroke scat cast crank stock rods and forged pistons and the number 3&7 rods wouldnt fit the journal it was too tight i took it apart and took it to my local machine shop and the measured the journal on the crank and said it was actuall slightly larger than it was supposed to be and the reworked the rods a second time any thought on what the issue is?
My brother is in the process tearing one of these down. The head is off already. Of course ours has been in a marine enviroment here on the gulf coast so it looks much worse than yours . Ours was mixing oil and water also.
What's it like working on a cooling system that uses salt-water to cool instead of a sealed system, is there some weird corrosion issues you need to deal with, and special measures that have to be performed? I've never had to work on an engine using open cooling, so I'm just curious. Interesting too that they use an open deck design.
Most marine engines use all stainless and brass fasteners. Both have better salt water resistance an the will not spark. I use this engine in fresh water. The water is pulled in, cools the engine and goes right back out.
I’ve been having a problem with a stuck valve tapper and possibly a stuck valve, we’ve sprayed oil in it and gotten lubricant in it, what would be the best thing to do in this situation.
Pete's Garage I watched almost all your videos looking for airplanes ✈️. Same here, flying for about 30 years now. 35%ers ( 4 ) flying 3D here in Palm Beach. And I just bought a vx1100 2014
Might be worth putting plugs back in and pouring gas into each cylinder head. Any leaking out could help point to bent valves, a possible cracked head or damaged valve seat. Not a definitive test but a pointer in the right direction. In a hydro locked engine it is almost always the valves and valve gear that gets it in my experience,well apart from a drowned dirt bike that bent its connecting rod like a banana! Great videos by the way.
That's the very best that could of been hoped for! Have to wonder if they make the gasket the weak link in an engine that runs a real risk of being hydro locked? A quick check for a bent connecting rod would be to measure the piston crown heights, one lower than the others points to a bent connecting rod. All that needs doing now is filling it up and enjoying long hot summer days on the water!
Curious, You mentioned you ran the water and went to crank the engine. Yamaha manual says never run water without the motor running that the water could flow back into the cyclinders. Could this have been your problem? Either way thanks for the video im tearing my apart now due to an expected headgasket issue.
Hi, thanks for the videos! I have hydrolocked my Vx110 waverunner. The piston is slightly scarred and the cylinder wall is a little damaged also. Do you know if the cylinder wall is nickel plated? I decided to do the work myself since the Yamaha dealer wanted to put a whole new motor in due to 1 piston and cylinder. Any helpful tips you have would be great!
Petes Garage my grandfather owns a garage and helped me hone it out today. I am going to put everything back together tomorrow and hopefully all is well.
Anyone still looking ......There's and Allen head bolt unscrew it and the pipe lifts out. It's held in with an O ring....if its a salt water jetski it will be tight!
Greetings Petes Garage, I wanted to know if you have a video I can watch for removing head gasket material from a head gasket. I am rebuilding my engine (VW 2.8L VR6 12v, Engine Code: AFP). I watched one of your previous videos, and I"m concerned with FM possibly destroying my crank / bearings. It's a Cast IRON block w/ an Aluminum Head.
boy you are so wrong takes 30 min to pull that motor that way you could bench it and tear it down by the way water in cyl they swamped it check the air box for water
Quick fix. The MR1 engine does not use coolant its water cooled
Great video series Pete. Thanks for sharing the information.
It has been interesting so far
thank you for the video, This engine is VERY similar to my CBR600rr, and has helped me a great deal in diagnosing a problem.
That's is cool, thanks
see u in part 3 great video
Keep up the good work! I can't get enough
I'm trying my friend
This is the most sophisticated engine I have ever seen-the head is all valves! After the plugs were removed and the water out of the cylinders, wouldn't a compression test given you some additional evidence that would have been useful? I'm amazed at the water cooling of the exhaust manifold.....I would think the potential for steam would always be present, and hence some kind of rupture. The casting of the block must really be a work of art, but all those channels inside could be weak points as it
ages a bit. Like low oil pressure in a regular engine denoted bearing wear, I wonder if those internal channels could be pressure tested for leaks?
I'm still working on it. I will have a cylinder head video soon. I still do not have a solid answer.
Great Video thanks for getting into such detail
My pleasure!
Great video series sir.
Thank you my friend
Very helpful videos... Thanks
Great video, cant wait to finally find out what it is. keep it up!
Me too
yep we enjoy see all your videos...you are awesome
Thank you
Petes Garage bless you everyday how you shows all your videos is like so perfect good teacher..... hi from Puerto Rico......Fan
You said in your first video you turned the wAter on then the engine maybe that was the problem you filled engine with water just needed getting out the engine maybe?
That's a good possibility
Hey pete good stuff man
Thanks my friend
I like to mark the chain to sprocket position too for absolute piece of mind..I'm watching..Does it have any port between the exhaust and inlet.? like for an EGR.?..I'm still going for a mouth full of water but the oil on the intake has no water,,The #1 inlet valves are a bit washed but did the water get in thru the exhaust perhaps.?
I am beginning to think water through the exhaust cooling system somehow. But that does not explain oil coming out the exhaust
Love these videos. Definitely do this more often.
That is my plan
G’day Pete,…… hope your well 😊…….. Mate at 1:20 sec in your video you were taking the head cover off the engine. That cooling pipe in the way. Did you have to unbolt it and wriggle it out before the cover came off. Got the same situation. I took out the bolt , but it’s stuck fast. Can I “tap” and spray to get it loose. Cheers , once again you have been helpful to thousands. 😊🌈🍀🍀🍀👍
That is worth a try, it take a bit of finesse
Off subject-but-would really like your input: I'm having a new long block installed
in my '87 jeep Comanche , all other current engine parts will be used to complete
the new engine. Question : Should I have the new block painted and should all the
current parts be cleaned and painted also. Is the added cost worth it ? Or will the
new engine be OK without the paint. My budget is very limited.
Thanks in advance.
Your videos are GREAT
AreWeEverThere The only thing that needs to be clean are the mating parts and o-ring surfaces. Painting looks nice but does not add to the function. You will be fine without it
Hey pete wondering if i could get your opinion on something im building a .040 over 351w with a stock stroke scat cast crank stock rods and forged pistons and the number 3&7 rods wouldnt fit the journal it was too tight i took it apart and took it to my local machine shop and the measured the journal on the crank and said it was actuall slightly larger than it was supposed to be and the reworked the rods a second time any thought on what the issue is?
I would have preferred to grind the crank journals to be the same. If they cut the rods the rotating mass will change.
A leak down test would would usually point you in the right direction.
I agree
My brother is in the process tearing one of these down. The head is off already. Of course ours has been in a marine enviroment here on the gulf coast so it looks much worse than yours
. Ours was mixing oil and water also.
Let me know what you find
Pete you skipped over how your got the valve cover past that cooling line the passes through the cover? Did you remove it?
Sorry for that, I don't really recall
howd you get the last 2 bolts out near the chain to get the head off? under the dog bone
I don't recall
What's it like working on a cooling system that uses salt-water to cool instead of a sealed system, is there some weird corrosion issues you need to deal with, and special measures that have to be performed? I've never had to work on an engine using open cooling, so I'm just curious. Interesting too that they use an open deck design.
Most marine engines use all stainless and brass fasteners. Both have better salt water resistance an the will not spark. I use this engine in fresh water. The water is pulled in, cools the engine and goes right back out.
How many hours of usage are seeing in this engine?. Where those hours ocean or lake.
Couple hundred hours on the lake
I’ve been having a problem with a stuck valve tapper and possibly a stuck valve, we’ve sprayed oil in it and gotten lubricant in it, what would be the best thing to do in this situation.
The valve may be bent
I noticed 2 spektrum radios on your bench. Do you fly?
I sure do, been flying since '76.
Pete's Garage I watched almost all your videos looking for airplanes ✈️.
Same here, flying for about 30 years now. 35%ers ( 4 ) flying 3D here in Palm Beach. And I just bought a vx1100 2014
the videos came to an end what was the cause and fix for this jet ski ? thanks
There were no cracks found, I'm going to put it together and make another video
I have this engine and one bearing spun .
Can it be repaired if I can a used good crank or it’s tossed?
Grind the crank and use oversized bearings
Look to the head again!! There are 3 intake valves and 2 exhaust per cylinder
You are right
Very nice sir. Sir i am surching job for this work ... Cane you hellp for this
I do not have one
Do you take a scotch bright pad to the heads and block to clean off that old gasket?
I will once I get it all apart
Might be worth putting plugs back in and pouring gas into each cylinder head. Any leaking out could help point to bent valves, a possible cracked head or damaged valve seat. Not a definitive test but a pointer in the right direction. In a hydro locked engine it is almost always the valves and valve gear that gets it in my experience,well apart from a drowned dirt bike that bent its connecting rod like a banana!
Great videos by the way.
After I cleaned out the cylinder it started right up and ran great. No obvious damage so far.
That's the very best that could of been hoped for! Have to wonder if they make the gasket the weak link in an engine that runs a real risk of being hydro locked? A quick check for a bent connecting rod would be to measure the piston crown heights, one lower than the others points to a bent connecting rod.
All that needs doing now is filling it up and enjoying long hot summer days on the water!
Curious, You mentioned you ran the water and went to crank the engine. Yamaha manual says never run water without the motor running that the water could flow back into the cyclinders. Could this have been your problem? Either way thanks for the video im tearing my apart now due to an expected headgasket issue.
It's possible, but I did start it without the water on and it still made it's way back to the engine.
How many hours of usage before the problem?
It looks to me like they turn on the water without running the engine. A good cleaning and a new head gasket would have fixed the problem.
You are right
Is that a ski-do?
There's no coolant, correct? Just water?
correct
Hi, thanks for the videos! I have hydrolocked my Vx110 waverunner. The piston is slightly scarred and the cylinder wall is a little damaged also. Do you know if the cylinder wall is nickel plated? I decided to do the work myself since the Yamaha dealer wanted to put a whole new motor in due to 1 piston and cylinder. Any helpful tips you have would be great!
I do not believe they are plated. You can it is has a sleeve in it so it will be difficult to machine, but it can be done
Petes Garage Is it possible to buy sleeve and just replace?
Yes, but it will be difficult to find a machine shop to do it. Sleeves are a nightmare
Petes Garage my grandfather owns a garage and helped me hone it out today. I am going to put everything back together tomorrow and hopefully all is well.
That's good. Did you measure after honing to make sure it is not oversize too much?
Thank you so much but one mistake you have to take out the engine
Yeah, that's a problem
Peter I like to be engaging
I’d love to see how the valve cover came off. That’s where we are now.
If you email me I can send pictures
Anyone still looking ......There's and Allen head bolt unscrew it and the pipe lifts out. It's held in with an O ring....if its a salt water jetski it will be tight!
Any vids on jetski tps adjustments
I am getting to that next Michael
TX
hello sir, dont you have full video ??? why you skip something ????
I have 3 videos of this so far
yes i watched all 3 video but you skip something...wish you dont skip it
What would you have like to have seen?
I'd be willing to bet someone turned on the water before they started the engine. As in after a ride and flushing out the engine
You're right
Greetings Petes Garage,
I wanted to know if you have a video I can watch for removing head gasket material from a head gasket. I am rebuilding my engine (VW 2.8L VR6 12v, Engine Code: AFP). I watched one of your previous videos, and I"m concerned with FM possibly destroying my crank / bearings.
It's a Cast IRON block w/ an Aluminum Head.
+Marlon Lyn You can use Chisel Gasket Remover....just be careful and use it sparingly. Take your time and scrape with a single edge razor blade
couldn't it have just gone through the intake ?????
I don't think so. Water and oil can get sucked in the cylinders, but not through the intake.
Nice can i get your contact?
petesgarageinfo@gmail.com
boy you are so wrong takes 30 min to pull that motor that way you could bench it and tear it down by the way water in cyl they swamped it check the air box for water
If you are familiar with it I can see it only taking 30 minutes.