As the owner of an EF Civic, my hat's off to you, Eric. I want to keep my car forever, but if I paid the dealer for everything, I'd surely go bankrupt. I bought a BIG ASS set of tools a couple years back and decided to learn this stuff myself. Your videos have played an immense role in helping a poor guy like me, enjoy his car to a level he normally wouldn't be able to. Everyone thought I was crazy, hanging onto what is now a 28 year old car, but I am undeterred; I have you (among other excellent car UA-camrs [shout out to Jon Widmer]) showing me the way.
BUT I AM UNDETERRED. I just started my journey with the purchase of a 1993 Del Sol SI, clearing my half of the garage so I have a 10x20 space to stuff it over winter with just enough clearance to take the hood off and get to work.
well, i can only agree :D i join you guys with a 28yr old Civic EJ6 that i really enjoy driving a lot. But you are right... if you let all the maintenance do workshops.. it costs you a lot. So I'm very grateful too for those videos. Thank you Eric!
This is possibly the best explanation of doing this job! Even tho I’m a mechanic this is my first time doing a d16. Watched your video to see what to expect and this was so detailed that it was a walk in the park just because I watched these vids. Thank you!
I have a lift and I still prefer a floor jack for engine support. That way I can keep the car at the exact height I want it and just move the engine around.
The first time I did this it was a bit of a nightmare with the tensioning of the new belt. Hopefully part 2 clearly shows how to tension the belt. After my first job it was simple. Absolutely simple. This is a great video. It should give anyone wanting to do this in their pajamas all the confidence needed. Kudos ETCG for empowering so many people. I hope you know what a service you are doing and know how appreciated it is. I wish I had this video 12 years ago when I did my first D series timing belt.
Install tensioner pulley with bolt keeping the spring pulled all the way out. Install belt (start at cam and crank sprockets, then water pump and finally the tensioner pulley), then loosen tensioner bolt so that spring pulls the pulley against the belt. Rotate engine around several times to ensure everything stays in time, then set back to TDC #1 cylinder. Loosen tensioner bolt, then rotate engine by about 3 teeth on the cam sprocket, which should take up all slack in that front long run of belt between the cam and crank sprockets. Tighten tensioner pulley bolt, and you're done. Rotate engine around a few more times to once again ensure that everything stays in time and the belt doesn't try to skip teeth anywhere.
Well just changed out my friends waterpump and timing belt on 1997 Civic. Your 2 videos are the best I found and most easiest to understand. You made my job so easy and the car runs better than it ever has! Major thanks to you! 👍
A big thank you to Eric the Car Guy. I'm not a mechanic by any stretch, but I spent six months at UA-cam University watching videos before attempting a timing belt/water pump replacement on my 1998 Acura EL (D16Y8). This two-part video was one of my prime resources. Thanks to a lack of certain length/size sockets and tools, along with having to do it from the ground underneath the car (which my arthritic back didn't like), checking everything two or five times, as well as having average (or less) mechanical skills, it took me three days and two hours to get the job done. I did the crank pulley bolt first as per Eric's recommendation. That took two hours of trying it manually and with a corded impact driver before I finally got the impact driver on square and it zipped that bolt off. At the end of the job, what a feeling when I turned the key... and it started!
I paid for the accord video manual and it helped me do the job properly on my car. That was 9 months ago and no leaks or anything! I dont even have a civic but I just like to see Eric work
Eric, I just wanted you to know that today I changed my timing belt with the guidance of these 2 videos. I have a 97 civic and the top timing belt cover was off when I bought it. Well something got in there and chewed up a section of the belt so it had to be replaced. Thanks for the quality content and details! I'm going into 2019 with my car thanks to this.
This was Today!!!! You are a blessing!!! My brother's Honda timing. I wanted to change it for him. Then I needed help. You came along by miracle posting a day after my needed question where to turn. Thank you!
I already changed 2 cam belts on my 2 civics, both D14Z4 but I will watch this video again. I may learn something new. Well done Eric. I'm pretty sure many of your viewers will be over the moon.
@@f3rb3rg3r i dont know why but youtube didn’t notify me about your question. The car didn’t have any syntomn, the time was up to simply change the timing belt.
@@justinmcquaid9763 I don’t know why but youtube didn’t notify me about your question. No bent valves because the timing belt disn’t snap, the time was up to simply change the timing belt.
Wow, this is by far the best auto mechanic channel on you tube. Super informative and a total pleasure to watch. Signal to noise is off the charts. Gives me enough confidence to do the TB change myself. Stealership price of TB change is close to $1K.
Thank you for this video. I was recently given a 98 Civic, which I have put into place for my son's first car. The car is California car in fair shape for its age, with only 64,000 miles and runs very well. However, I had no service records and did not know anything about how long ago the timing belt had been replaced (if at all) and did not want to take a chance on what could be a 23 year old belt. I would consider myself a hobbyist wrench. In my younger days I did a lot of work on 60s and 70s cars to include engine and transmission jobs. However, I haven't done much other than change oil, minor tune ups and brake jobs over the last 30 years and every car that I owned that needed a timing belt, I had done. The Chilton manual was worthless in giving instruction. Your video not only made the job possible, but provided the confidence to do it right. I have better than average tools, definitely not professional tools, but was able to improvise as the need arose. The only place where I slightly deviated from your instruction was in Part 2 in the installation of the woodruff key. After a few failed attempts of installing the pulley over the key and knocking it off, I installed the pulley first, lined up the keyway then inserted the key. Once again, Thank You!
I just did it that way myself. I turned the crank until the keyway was bottomed out at 6 o clock so gravity could help me hold it in line. I walked it up with one finger, then when I couldn't go any further with just my finger walking the key, I used my other hand to stick a skinny torx head driver next to my finger, and used the torx tip to work the key the rest of the way into the hole, then I turned the pulley back to 12 o clock to line up the pulley timing marks. Easy peasy
I hate the crank bolt, I was able to keep mine in good condition on my 05 Acura TL but had to heat it with a torch.. it broke or bent 2 breaker bars... Eric I also just dropped the subframe to install new clutch set, flywheel, rear main seal and axle seals. Then moved up top to do new valve cover gaskets, spark plugs and valve adjustment. Thanks to your video on the valve adjustment for the TL, I no longer have a random misfire. Thanks for content take care
High sustained torque (breaker bar) is not as effective at removing stubborn bolts, and in fact is more likely to break the bolt, as compared to repeated short high torque impact blows from an impact wrench.
just rewatched this video.. thank God for people like you man this brought a tear to my eye i did all this with some homies and a couple of sleepless nights but we got it done, appreciate your channel bro🙏🏼
Thank you for the step by step video. It gave me the confidence to do the job. I did the job just like you did the video and the job went perfect! No more leaky water pump...runs great!!
Eric, we really appreciate you taking the time to do these Videos, I do not stand a chance in comparison with your knowledge on cars. I know this is 5 years old video but just maybe no one told you about when taking loose or tightening the Alt Belt. I noticed why it was so hard for you to loosen that belt. The adjusting slot is straight and because it does not have a curve in the adjusting slot, we need to loosen the other nut on top also because it is not allowing the bracket to pivot up or down as needed, this is the reason you had to give so much force to move the Alternator, if all bolts had been loosened it would go so much easier. Thank you again for all you do for us! I must have watched both parts at least 3 times when doing the timing belt on my sisters 99 Civic. I could never have done it without! I am 73.
Erik, I like your vids because you don’t add minutes of BS before you get to the meat of the vid. Also, your lighting is great, the videos are in focus and steady. So many others UA-camrs are a mess. I’ve learned sooo much. Thank you!
Thank s for all the professional and educational videos you have gave to us on UA-cam through the years . Your channel has been a blessing and we deeply appreciate your time and dedication . Thanks a million :-)
Dude! Love how you get straight into the whole process by breaking the crank bolt loose BEFORE Removing the BELTS! everybody else has you break everything down and or completely off the motor before removing the harmonic pulley. Unless you have a variety of tools that you plan to use in removing the crankshaft bolt.... leaving the belts on and breaking the bolt loose first thing, makes life a little bit more enjoyable as you begin the process. Thank you for the help and the knowledge to take the job on with some confidence
Loving all the Milwaukee Fuel Line usage. I have that same monstrous 1/2" impact and it has never let me down yet. It gets a bit heavy towards the end of a work day, but it takes everything out like butter and it saves some time from grabbing an air hose.
I agree, it is heavy, which is why I usually only use it for heavy jobs like crank bolts. I have a lighter 1/2" that I use on wheels. Thanks for the comment.
By far the best video i've seen explaining multiple ways to remove that bolt. I think most can agree thats it ridiculous what Honda didn't just make the cover so that you don't have to remove the whole pulley to change the water pump. All they had to do was split the the bottom cover into two parts. I mean really Honda
You’re video has helped me so much. I had to rent the tool to hold the crank pulley and then had to use an 8ft trampoline pole as a breaker bar because apparently no one has touched it since it left the factory floor in ‘96. Does anyone know how necessary the coolant flush is? Wanna do this job right the one time and be done with it
So far halfway through dismantling the timing cover, whole top end is done with about half of the lower. I’m still on the serpentine belt that goes around the alternator but I’m not cutting them due to the previous owner having replaced them a month before I bought the car off of him so I gotta go through the process of gingerly taking them off. Timing belt snapped sadly but despite having a few hurt knuckles and a half of a combination wrench, it’s been a cake walk thanks to the video 👍🏻
Just finished doing this repair after sudden water pump failure gotta give you your thanks for the great video everything is in working order except my ac tensioner that's acting a little weird which I'll get fixed.. Thanks a lot for the video!!
If you want to help neoprene gaskets seal better, smear them with a bit of silicone grease (NOT RTV). I use the Dow Corning stuff (Dow Corning High Vacuum Grease). I re-used a Honda valve cover gasket for 25+ years by cleaning it and smearing it with the Dow stuff every time it was off (every 15K on a motor I drove for 150K).
I feel like this is a real return to form you know, Eric. These sorts of videos are EXACTLY how I found your channel. I wanted to do some work on my car, and didn't know how, so looked up a video tutorial, and there you were. Dark Matter Pikachu is very cool, and certainly interesting to watch now that you've got me, but you never would have drawn me in with that. Never have I sat down at the old google machine and typed "video of car being modded".
Good Video but Christ, I didn't know I was going to have to disassemble the entire car to change the water pump. I'm surprised I didn't have to remove the steering wheel, back seat and the spare tire to change this pump.
Nice to see a video on a D-series since my girlfriend has an '05 Civic with 120K miles or at least 110K I forget, but it's on the original timing belt. Past due by both time and mileage. I drive an '85 Celica so I am not used to ever seeing videos on fixing things for a car I'm actually going to work on. And your repair videos are actually thorough enough that I'd feel confident doing it.
"its seems mostly drained out so im just going to remove the water."....gush of coolant LOL. This has been the one video that I have been looking for, changing the oil and possible water pump in my Kia!
Just finished up the timing belt job with the help of your video! Thank you for all the knowledge and being so clear and thorough in your vids! My 99 civic has no more leaks from the water pump and all new belts 🙏 Stay dirty Eric 🤣
I bought the massive Makita version of the electric impact wrench you used. They are powerful tools. Nothing on my rusty Tacoma has stood a chance yet. 😁
A very good guide. I'm about to do this on my EJ8 D16y8 daily driver. Water pump started leaking after only 340,000 miles. If everything comes apart as easy as the clutch job I just did then I'll be pretty happy. What wrecks these cars are replacement non OEM spec fasteners. The devil is in the details.
It has been so stressful preparing for this job by watching this video, watching the Vmanual, reading the workshop manual etc. that I actually just woke from a dream (It’s morning here) where I tried to remove the crank bolt using an impact gun resulting in the bolt cutting cleanly in half inside the engine block. I hope it goes better in real life!
I had a Toyota Paseo years ago kept it long enough to do three timing belt changes. They were very easy to do. The first took longer but the next two was like less than 30 minutes. I also had to change the crank seal on it once.
Cutting those belts actually made me flinch and scream internally. I know you know what your doing, so it's ok, but I'm way too paranoid to destroy old parts lol. Great video btw. I just got a the exact same car about 2 weeks ago. I still have another 50,000km before it's time to do this job. I need to improve my wrench-fu before then.
I totally get what you're saying about wrecking old parts. As 1 example, whenever I change my Vic's serpentine belt, I save the old one in the trunk as an emergency spare, should the need ever arise.
I too always keep the old belt in vehicle and I tend to jam them into the trunk/spare tire area if it has one. nothing like middle of night calls "all my idiots lights are on, I think the belt broke" although generally, something else occurred causing the belt to break. quite often still SOL. unless of course you keep used/noisy pulleys also :)
The best way to not make a mess of the floor when you remove the water pump is to rapidly remove it. This way you reduce the effects of surface tension and the coolant falls in a smaller area. As long as you haven't misplaced your pan, you won''t make too much of a mess.
“It seems mostly drained out now” is the quote of the day! 😂😂 how many times have I internally said the same thing and then watched another 2 quarts come out! Man- wish I would have known about the rear cam marks back in the day! Back when I was a younger buck I did this job on my 80 cvcc 1500 DX, and ended up 180* off. 😡🙄 the cam had 2 marks on the front and I obviously wasn’t paying attention to the piston location...anyway, lesson learned. Love the additional info you provide. My OCD wants to clean each of those parts your removing😂😂
Great video im currently doing d16 engine swap on a vtech to non vtech turbo and you made my timing dought go away!! Very clear the way showed us!!! Thank you bro!!! I didnt realize a vtech didnt have a crank sensor so have to swap oil pumps. Just some info if didnt know. Thanks again
Thanks for this and the other part 2 video. I was able to do this job on my daughters Honda Domani (Civic). I had to get a mechanic to loosen the crank bolt for $50, but was able to do the rest myself. Just had trouble with air pockets in the cooling system but was able to solve easily. It also took a while for the fuel to come through because I had the car on front jack stands for 2 weeks.
Back to the Honda’s woot woot! Love these videos because it takes me back to when you was in your original shop with all that hair giving out awesome tutorials 😉 jk bro, you still have great hair 😬
I use a Dewalt DCF899 which had no problem breaking the crank bolt loose on my accord. I'm a sparky and have a number of Dewalt tools and batteries already so I only needed the bare unit. Much cheaper and an absolute beast!
Ok- a slight technicality. A "gear" meshes with another gear. A "sprocket" meshes with a chain. A "cog" meshes with a toothed belt. Many people confuse the 3 terms.
HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP im citing this from Fandome: _Spacely Space Sprockets, Inc. is a company in Orbit City that manufactures sprockets. It is owned by Cosmo Spacely. Its main business rival is Cogswell's Cogs. He has a plant on an asteroid in space._
*VHS-BETA. COKE-PEPSI. PINTO-BOBCAT. MAC-PC.* Gear-to-gear is the most reliable, with the least loss of HP and wear. Is there an engine now days with gear-to-gear crank-to-cam? Hardly.
Yay! More old honda stuff. I've always liked the D and B series. Throwing the question to you guys, what are you paying for your D series engines (used jammies with harnesses)??
I love Eric and his videos, just a little pet-peeve of mine is when Eric (and many others) say "take loose this 10mm bolt? Fact is it's NOT a 10mm bolt it's a 6mm bolt with a 10mm head. Likewise, it's not a 14mm bolt, it's a 8mm bolt with a 14mm head. No, it doesn't effect anything really, just a pet-peeve. These are still by far some of the best videos.
When I bought my 1999 Civic last year, it had a Gates sticker under hood stating next recommended belt service. It's now. So my question is, how risky is it to go a few thousand miles past the recommended service interval? I think it's every 60,000 miles it's recommended if I'm not mistaken.
And this video works to instruct people about pretty much all Honda and Toyota of the period; with the biggest difference being interference and non-interference.
Hi Eric firstable thanks for all your patience explaining how to remove and install timing belt and water pump, but more than a comment I have a question for you, on my 99 honda civic the temperature needle its always in the middle and when I I'm stuck in traffic my needle rises and then comes down, I'll appreciate any suggestions I might be looking for thanks Eric
I have a question,my 92 civic esi already has reached the timing belt age to be replaced. During the last 5 years I had very low mileage about 6k miles... Would it be enough to replace the belt and tensioner alone without the water pump? There are no leaks or heating issues. Thank you for the great effort that goes into these videos
Before you pull the water pump put the dipstick tube back in, he mentions this in part 2 but after you would have pulled the water pump already. Otherwise fantastic step by step, all done. Afterwards I have air in my coolant system so make sure to check that at the end too.
Thanks for all your videos...they have saved me plenty of times and saved me plenty of money. Question I have for this job is regarding the electric tools you used. Do you have any specs on those?
Just a bit of advice for anyone watching this video it is not a good idea to remove spark plugs with a impact gun as the ceramic on the spark plugs can shatter and end up in the cylinder then you would have to remove the cylinder head to get the ceramic out of the boar as the ceramic can cause catastrophic damage to a engine
EricTheCarGuy I have seen this happen once one of my customers done it and had some very bad advice on just to put new plugs in and start the engine causing engine failure please don’t take it as I am being nasty with the comments I have been watching you for a couple of years now and love your videos and how helpful they are
never seen plugs turn to ceramic powder or even shed chunks, now crack and arc a carbon trail yes. you'd have to be doing something especially stupendous to actually shatter them into anything harmful. even if you did, the chances of a small piece or two actually staying in the cylinder and causing damage is very low, things light weight generally exit with the exhaust in a hurry. huge chunks chunks or half the plugs excluded ( middle fingers pointing at ford)
As the owner of an EF Civic, my hat's off to you, Eric. I want to keep my car forever, but if I paid the dealer for everything, I'd surely go bankrupt. I bought a BIG ASS set of tools a couple years back and decided to learn this stuff myself. Your videos have played an immense role in helping a poor guy like me, enjoy his car to a level he normally wouldn't be able to. Everyone thought I was crazy, hanging onto what is now a 28 year old car, but I am undeterred; I have you (among other excellent car UA-camrs [shout out to Jon Widmer]) showing me the way.
BUT I AM UNDETERRED. I just started my journey with the purchase of a 1993 Del Sol SI, clearing my half of the garage so I have a 10x20 space to stuff it over winter with just enough clearance to take the hood off and get to work.
@@dakotapatterson4306 Fist bump!!
Q@@dakotapatterson4306
well, i can only agree :D i join you guys with a 28yr old Civic EJ6 that i really enjoy driving a lot. But you are right... if you let all the maintenance do workshops.. it costs you a lot. So I'm very grateful too for those videos. Thank you Eric!
@@Astronomiespechtler Welcome to the brotherhood! haha
This is possibly the best explanation of doing this job! Even tho I’m a mechanic this is my first time doing a d16. Watched your video to see what to expect and this was so detailed that it was a walk in the park just because I watched these vids. Thank you!
Amazing
Thanks for the 'common man' tips with the jack. It helps you connect again with the guys that don't have a lift.
I have a lift and I still prefer a floor jack for engine support. That way I can keep the car at the exact height I want it and just move the engine around.
The first time I did this it was a bit of a nightmare with the tensioning of the new belt. Hopefully part 2 clearly shows how to tension the belt. After my first job it was simple. Absolutely simple.
This is a great video. It should give anyone wanting to do this in their pajamas all the confidence needed. Kudos ETCG for empowering so many people. I hope you know what a service you are doing and know how appreciated it is. I wish I had this video 12 years ago when I did my first D series timing belt.
Install tensioner pulley with bolt keeping the spring pulled all the way out. Install belt (start at cam and crank sprockets, then water pump and finally the tensioner pulley), then loosen tensioner bolt so that spring pulls the pulley against the belt. Rotate engine around several times to ensure everything stays in time, then set back to TDC #1 cylinder. Loosen tensioner bolt, then rotate engine by about 3 teeth on the cam sprocket, which should take up all slack in that front long run of belt between the cam and crank sprockets. Tighten tensioner pulley bolt, and you're done. Rotate engine around a few more times to once again ensure that everything stays in time and the belt doesn't try to skip teeth anywhere.
Well just changed out my friends waterpump and timing belt on 1997 Civic. Your 2 videos are the best I found and most easiest to understand. You made my job so easy and the car runs better than it ever has! Major thanks to you! 👍
A big thank you to Eric the Car Guy. I'm not a mechanic by any stretch, but I spent six months at UA-cam University watching videos before attempting a timing belt/water pump replacement on my 1998 Acura EL (D16Y8). This two-part video was one of my prime resources. Thanks to a lack of certain length/size sockets and tools, along with having to do it from the ground underneath the car (which my arthritic back didn't like), checking everything two or five times, as well as having average (or less) mechanical skills, it took me three days and two hours to get the job done. I did the crank pulley bolt first as per Eric's recommendation. That took two hours of trying it manually and with a corded impact driver before I finally got the impact driver on square and it zipped that bolt off. At the end of the job, what a feeling when I turned the key... and it started!
😊 ok😊
You are very smooth and have a wonderful voice. Your instructions are well organized too. Thanx.
I paid for the accord video manual and it helped me do the job properly on my car. That was 9 months ago and no leaks or anything! I dont even have a civic but I just like to see Eric work
Eric, I just wanted you to know that today I changed my timing belt with the guidance of these 2 videos. I have a 97 civic and the top timing belt cover was off when I bought it. Well something got in there and chewed up a section of the belt so it had to be replaced. Thanks for the quality content and details! I'm going into 2019 with my car thanks to this.
These videos that have been released lately are the ones I miss seeing on your channel. Keep it up.
Thanks for the advice and info it was very helpful keep up the good work!
This is straight up classic EricTheCarGuy, awesome video
Ilolouu i.p.o OP p.o 0⁰0 p.o p oppo p.o l oil l i.p.o] ] ol
This was Today!!!! You are a blessing!!! My brother's Honda timing. I wanted to change it for him. Then I needed help. You came along by miracle posting a day after my needed question where to turn. Thank you!
I'm happy to help. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy Oh SWEET-! Thank you more for the reply.
I already changed 2 cam belts on my 2 civics, both D14Z4 but I will watch this video again. I may learn something new. Well done Eric. I'm pretty sure many of your viewers will be over the moon.
may i ask what the symptoms are?
Did you bend valves ? My timing belt broke the other day and im atressing
@@f3rb3rg3r i dont know why but youtube didn’t notify me about your question. The car didn’t have any syntomn, the time was up to simply change the timing belt.
@@justinmcquaid9763 I don’t know why but youtube didn’t notify me about your question. No bent valves because the timing belt disn’t snap, the time was up to simply change the timing belt.
Better late then never lol, sold it last year.
Excellent video! Changed timing belt, tensioner, and water pump on my newly acquired 99 EX this past weekend. Turned out great! Thanks!
2000 Civic, water pump started weeping, changed the timing belt, tensioner and Water pump.
Thank you, Eric
Wow, this is by far the best auto mechanic channel on you tube. Super informative and a total pleasure to watch. Signal to noise is off the charts. Gives me enough confidence to do the TB change myself. Stealership price of TB change is close to $1K.
Thank you for this video. I was recently given a 98 Civic, which I have put into place for my son's first car. The car is California car in fair shape for its age, with only 64,000 miles and runs very well. However, I had no service records and did not know anything about how long ago the timing belt had been replaced (if at all) and did not want to take a chance on what could be a 23 year old belt.
I would consider myself a hobbyist wrench. In my younger days I did a lot of work on 60s and 70s cars to include engine and transmission jobs. However, I haven't done much other than change oil, minor tune ups and brake jobs over the last 30 years and every car that I owned that needed a timing belt, I had done.
The Chilton manual was worthless in giving instruction. Your video not only made the job possible, but provided the confidence to do it right. I have better than average tools, definitely not professional tools, but was able to improvise as the need arose.
The only place where I slightly deviated from your instruction was in Part 2 in the installation of the woodruff key. After a few failed attempts of installing the pulley over the key and knocking it off, I installed the pulley first, lined up the keyway then inserted the key.
Once again, Thank You!
I just did it that way myself. I turned the crank until the keyway was bottomed out at 6 o clock so gravity could help me hold it in line. I walked it up with one finger, then when I couldn't go any further with just my finger walking the key, I used my other hand to stick a skinny torx head driver next to my finger, and used the torx tip to work the key the rest of the way into the hole, then I turned the pulley back to 12 o clock to line up the pulley timing marks. Easy peasy
I hate the crank bolt, I was able to keep mine in good condition on my 05 Acura TL but had to heat it with a torch.. it broke or bent 2 breaker bars... Eric I also just dropped the subframe to install new clutch set, flywheel, rear main seal and axle seals. Then moved up top to do new valve cover gaskets, spark plugs and valve adjustment. Thanks to your video on the valve adjustment for the TL, I no longer have a random misfire. Thanks for content take care
Thank you very much for the comment. BTW I don't recommend heating a crank bolt. You can melt the front seal, or cause other damage.
@@ericthecarguy Now you tell me.... J/K got a new crank seal it was melted...
High sustained torque (breaker bar) is not as effective at removing stubborn bolts, and in fact is more likely to break the bolt, as compared to repeated short high torque impact blows from an impact wrench.
@Haz Cat damn
just rewatched this video.. thank God for people like you man this brought a tear to my eye i did all this with some homies and a couple of sleepless nights but we got it done, appreciate your channel bro🙏🏼
Thank you for the step by step video. It gave me the confidence to do the job. I did the job just like you did the video and the job went perfect! No more leaky water pump...runs great!!
Eric, we really appreciate you taking the time to do these Videos, I do not stand a chance in comparison with your knowledge on cars. I know this is 5 years old video but just maybe no one told you about when taking loose or tightening the Alt Belt. I noticed why it was so hard for you to loosen that belt. The adjusting slot is straight and because it does not have a curve in the adjusting slot, we need to loosen the other nut on top also because it is not allowing the bracket to pivot up or down as needed, this is the reason you had to give so much force to move the Alternator, if all bolts had been loosened it would go so much easier. Thank you again for all you do for us!
I must have watched both parts at least 3 times when doing the timing belt on my sisters 99 Civic. I could never have done it without! I am 73.
That camshaft oil seal install was sooooo satisfying.
I appreciate how you work on Honda engines especially the D series in particular its common and reliable.
Erik, I like your vids because you don’t add minutes of BS before you get to the meat of the vid. Also, your lighting is great, the videos are in focus and steady. So many others UA-camrs are a mess. I’ve learned sooo much. Thank you!
Was awesome to wake up to a notification for a long format Honda video. Loved every minute!
this is the kind of car lots of DIY people would own. Your video will be very helpful.
its a very sensible car its just not very exciting
Eric, sorry to comment so much, but you should win a YT award for this upload. Its beyond wonderful.
Eric, you are the best Honda mechanic on UA-cam.
And this has to be your best Honda video of all time.
Amazing!!
Thank s for all the professional and educational videos you have gave to us on UA-cam through the years . Your channel has been a blessing and we deeply appreciate your time and dedication . Thanks a million :-)
Thank you!
Dude! Love how you get straight into the whole process by breaking the crank bolt loose BEFORE Removing the BELTS! everybody else has you break everything down and or completely off the motor before removing the harmonic pulley. Unless you have a variety of tools that you plan to use in removing the crankshaft bolt.... leaving the belts on and breaking the bolt loose first thing, makes life a little bit more enjoyable as you begin the process. Thank you for the help and the knowledge to take the job on with some confidence
Loving all the Milwaukee Fuel Line usage. I have that same monstrous 1/2" impact and it has never let me down yet. It gets a bit heavy towards the end of a work day, but it takes everything out like butter and it saves some time from grabbing an air hose.
I agree, it is heavy, which is why I usually only use it for heavy jobs like crank bolts. I have a lighter 1/2" that I use on wheels. Thanks for the comment.
By far the best video i've seen explaining multiple ways to remove that bolt. I think most can agree thats it ridiculous what Honda didn't just make the cover so that you don't have to remove the whole pulley to change the water pump. All they had to do was split the the bottom cover into two parts. I mean really Honda
Old school Eric the car guy stuff! Today is a good day!
Eric those milwaukee tools are amazing, and your videos.
You're the man....
Something tells me you've done this before HA HA. ECG -- THE HEARTBEAT OF CAR REPAIR!!!
Eric this could be the sharpest video AND informative post Iv'e seen yet.
You’re video has helped me so much. I had to rent the tool to hold the crank pulley and then had to use an 8ft trampoline pole as a breaker bar because apparently no one has touched it since it left the factory floor in ‘96. Does anyone know how necessary the coolant flush is? Wanna do this job right the one time and be done with it
So far halfway through dismantling the timing cover, whole top end is done with about half of the lower. I’m still on the serpentine belt that goes around the alternator but I’m not cutting them due to the previous owner having replaced them a month before I bought the car off of him so I gotta go through the process of gingerly taking them off. Timing belt snapped sadly but despite having a few hurt knuckles and a half of a combination wrench, it’s been a cake walk thanks to the video 👍🏻
One of the best how to videos I've ever watched.
Very clearly spoken individual. Awesome video!!
Eric I've just done this on my brothers 99 civic this past summer!
Please more videos of this civic!!!
Check the description. I've done a lot of videos on this Civic that you might find helpful.
Just finished doing this repair after sudden water pump failure gotta give you your thanks for the great video everything is in working order except my ac tensioner that's acting a little weird which I'll get fixed.. Thanks a lot for the video!!
This is what I call perfect explanation, thanks budy
If you want to help neoprene gaskets seal better, smear them with a bit of silicone grease (NOT RTV). I use the Dow Corning stuff (Dow Corning High Vacuum Grease). I re-used a Honda valve cover gasket for 25+ years by cleaning it and smearing it with the Dow stuff every time it was off (every 15K on a motor I drove for 150K).
I feel like this is a real return to form you know, Eric. These sorts of videos are EXACTLY how I found your channel. I wanted to do some work on my car, and didn't know how, so looked up a video tutorial, and there you were. Dark Matter Pikachu is very cool, and certainly interesting to watch now that you've got me, but you never would have drawn me in with that. Never have I sat down at the old google machine and typed "video of car being modded".
I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Thank you for the feedback.
@@ericthecarguy Thank you for the video! If I end up with a Honda Civic D series, I'm coming right back to watch it again.
Good Video but Christ, I didn't know I was going to have to disassemble the entire car to change the water pump. I'm surprised I didn't have to remove the steering wheel, back seat and the spare tire to change this pump.
Oh dont worry that's in part 2 lol jk.
@@pinkfiffty3094 The back seat bolts are 14mm
Stop bitching that’s not even that bad do a water pump on a Chrysler 300 lmfao behind the timing cover leaks into the oil pan
Make sure you take the gas out the tank
If this water pump job is too difficult for you you may want to switch to any nissan with a vq based engine.
I appreciate how you tell us the actual socket sizes. That right angle Milwaukee is skookum too!
Nice to see a video on a D-series since my girlfriend has an '05 Civic with 120K miles or at least 110K I forget, but it's on the original timing belt. Past due by both time and mileage. I drive an '85 Celica so I am not used to ever seeing videos on fixing things for a car I'm actually going to work on. And your repair videos are actually thorough enough that I'd feel confident doing it.
Holy crap. I'd change that belt immediately or else goodbye engine.
"its seems mostly drained out so im just going to remove the water."....gush of coolant LOL. This has been the one video that I have been looking for, changing the oil and possible water pump in my Kia!
Just finished up the timing belt job with the help of your video! Thank you for all the knowledge and being so clear and thorough in your vids!
My 99 civic has no more leaks from the water pump and all new belts 🙏
Stay dirty Eric 🤣
Thank you for making such quality videos. You’re the best Eric!
yours are still the most detailed videos. thanks
Me and my dad did this job in about 6 hours thanks to this vid. First time I've ever done something like this on a Honda.
Eric is such a great Tech !! Knows all the tricks!
How I miss my 97 Civic dx 5sp . I had it for 20 years and it ran trouble free for 187000 miles.
I miss just watching you work on this one.
Then what happened?
I bought the massive Makita version of the electric impact wrench you used. They are powerful tools. Nothing on my rusty Tacoma has stood a chance yet. 😁
Saved my butt again. Thanks Eric the car guy
Love these long format videos. They're badass!
A very good guide. I'm about to do this on my EJ8 D16y8 daily driver. Water pump started leaking after only 340,000 miles. If everything comes apart as easy as the clutch job I just did then I'll be pretty happy. What wrecks these cars are replacement non OEM spec fasteners. The devil is in the details.
You do make it look easy. Thanks Eric!
Thxs Eric goood stuff you do a nice way of telling how and what too do and not, waiting for pt 2...
Friday.
It has been so stressful preparing for this job by watching this video, watching the Vmanual, reading the workshop manual etc. that I actually just woke from a dream (It’s morning here) where I tried to remove the crank bolt using an impact gun resulting in the bolt cutting cleanly in half inside the engine block.
I hope it goes better in real life!
I had a Toyota Paseo years ago kept it long enough to do three timing belt changes. They were very easy to do. The first took longer but the next two was like less than 30 minutes. I also had to change the crank seal on it once.
Thanks for this vid, 'bout to do this job on my 00' HX. Hoping to keep her alive much longer, she's still driving awesome at 260K!
Cutting those belts actually made me flinch and scream internally. I know you know what your doing, so it's ok, but I'm way too paranoid to destroy old parts lol. Great video btw. I just got a the exact same car about 2 weeks ago. I still have another 50,000km before it's time to do this job. I need to improve my wrench-fu before then.
Flat rate memories from eric
I totally get what you're saying about wrecking old parts. As 1 example, whenever I change my Vic's serpentine belt, I save the old one in the trunk as an emergency spare, should the need ever arise.
I too always keep the old belt in vehicle and I tend to jam them into the trunk/spare tire area if it has one. nothing like middle of night calls "all my idiots lights are on, I think the belt broke" although generally, something else occurred causing the belt to break. quite often still SOL. unless of course you keep used/noisy pulleys also :)
The best way to not make a mess of the floor when you remove the water pump is to rapidly remove it. This way you reduce the effects of surface tension and the coolant falls in a smaller area. As long as you haven't misplaced your pan, you won''t make too much of a mess.
Yay, finally an old-style EricTheCaryGuy video!!
“It seems mostly drained out now” is the quote of the day! 😂😂 how many times have I internally said the same thing and then watched another 2 quarts come out!
Man- wish I would have known about the rear cam marks back in the day!
Back when I was a younger buck I did this job on my 80 cvcc 1500 DX, and ended up 180* off. 😡🙄 the cam had 2 marks on the front and I obviously wasn’t paying attention to the piston location...anyway, lesson learned.
Love the additional info you provide. My OCD wants to clean each of those parts your removing😂😂
Great video im currently doing d16 engine swap on a vtech to non vtech turbo and you made my timing dought go away!! Very clear the way showed us!!! Thank you bro!!! I didnt realize a vtech didnt have a crank sensor so have to swap oil pumps. Just some info if didnt know. Thanks again
Thanks Eric! Just what I was looking for!
Thanks for this and the other part 2 video. I was able to do this job on my daughters Honda Domani (Civic). I had to get a mechanic to loosen the crank bolt for $50, but was able to do the rest myself. Just had trouble with air pockets in the cooling system but was able to solve easily. It also took a while for the fuel to come through because I had the car on front jack stands for 2 weeks.
Extremely well explained. Well done. Thank you for the clear instructions!
Back to the Honda’s woot woot! Love these videos because it takes me back to when you was in your original shop with all that hair giving out awesome tutorials 😉 jk bro, you still have great hair 😬
Eric uploads a cam belt change video.....'Car Porn', right there.....
I use a Dewalt DCF899 which had no problem breaking the crank bolt loose on my accord. I'm a sparky and have a number of Dewalt tools and batteries already so I only needed the bare unit. Much cheaper and an absolute beast!
Ok- a slight technicality. A "gear" meshes with another gear. A "sprocket" meshes with a chain. A "cog" meshes with a toothed belt. Many people confuse the 3 terms.
HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP feel better?
blimey, thanks for the comment - I learned something new - thanks!
Ever watch the Jetsons cartoon? Who (what) were the two competing companies?
HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP im citing this from Fandome: _Spacely Space Sprockets, Inc. is a company in Orbit City that manufactures sprockets. It is owned by Cosmo Spacely. Its main business rival is Cogswell's Cogs. He has a plant on an asteroid in space._
*VHS-BETA. COKE-PEPSI. PINTO-BOBCAT. MAC-PC.* Gear-to-gear is the most reliable, with the least loss of HP and wear. Is there an engine now days with gear-to-gear crank-to-cam? Hardly.
I miss the Honda videos. Welcome back. I miss my civic too 😥
a great video, with a perfect video quality , with the good focus ! All is perfect ! its rare.
Yay! More old honda stuff. I've always liked the D and B series. Throwing the question to you guys, what are you paying for your D series engines (used jammies with harnesses)??
Don't have a Honda, but still watched.
I love Eric and his videos, just a little pet-peeve of mine is when Eric (and many others) say "take loose this 10mm bolt? Fact is it's NOT a 10mm bolt it's a 6mm bolt with a 10mm head. Likewise, it's not a 14mm bolt, it's a 8mm bolt with a 14mm head.
No, it doesn't effect anything really, just a pet-peeve. These are still by far some of the best videos.
Eric, I just bought 92 Vigor. Id love to see a video like this on your Vig! =) love your channels BTW
When I bought my 1999 Civic last year, it had a Gates sticker under hood stating next recommended belt service. It's now. So my question is, how risky is it to go a few thousand miles past the recommended service interval? I think it's every 60,000 miles it's recommended if I'm not mistaken.
And this video works to instruct people about pretty much all Honda and Toyota of the period; with the biggest difference being interference and non-interference.
Hi Eric firstable thanks for all your patience explaining how to remove and install timing belt and water pump, but more than a comment I have a question for you, on my 99 honda civic the temperature needle its always in the middle and when I I'm stuck in traffic my needle rises and then comes down, I'll appreciate any suggestions I might be looking for thanks Eric
So happy u back on Honda
A very informative video. No bitching about quirks about the industry, thank god
That’s the old Eric we want !
Glad to see you again in UA-cam! Eric! 👍🏻
Excellent vid as usual . The best how to,s on the net
Looks like a square key at the crank pulley not a woodruff key... excellent video!
New to this Eric....What a great teacher...I’m in now...
Great work, Eric - patched that to the TV and the kids watched it! 👍🏻
Big thanks! very helpful, thinking about do it on my litle Concerto.
I have a question,my 92 civic esi already has reached the timing belt age to be replaced. During the last 5 years I had very low mileage about 6k miles... Would it be enough to replace the belt and tensioner alone without the water pump? There are no leaks or heating issues. Thank you for the great effort that goes into these videos
Excellent, well done , great video easy t understand. Thanks
Yay for good ol ETCG engine repair videos!!!! =D
Before you pull the water pump put the dipstick tube back in, he mentions this in part 2 but after you would have pulled the water pump already. Otherwise fantastic step by step, all done. Afterwards I have air in my coolant system so make sure to check that at the end too.
Thanks for all your videos...they have saved me plenty of times and saved me plenty of money. Question I have for this job is regarding the electric tools you used. Do you have any specs on those?
Just a bit of advice for anyone watching this video it is not a good idea to remove spark plugs with a impact gun as the ceramic on the spark plugs can shatter and end up in the cylinder then you would have to remove the cylinder head to get the ceramic out of the boar as the ceramic can cause catastrophic damage to a engine
In over 20 years of doing it, I've never seen what you describe happen. That said, it doesn't hurt to be cautious. Thank you for your comment.
A stick and some chewing gum
EricTheCarGuy I have seen this happen once one of my customers done it and had some very bad advice on just to put new plugs in and start the engine causing engine failure please don’t take it as I am being nasty with the comments I have been watching you for a couple of years now and love your videos and how helpful they are
@@ericthecarguy the snap on review channel, he actually broke 2 spark plugs on a hyundai removing them with an impact
never seen plugs turn to ceramic powder or even shed chunks, now crack and arc a carbon trail yes. you'd have to be doing something especially stupendous to actually shatter them into anything harmful.
even if you did, the chances of a small piece or two actually staying in the cylinder and causing damage is very low, things light weight generally exit with the exhaust in a hurry. huge chunks chunks or half the plugs excluded ( middle fingers pointing at ford)