Signs Your Axle Is Bad - CV Joint Failure Signs
Вставка
- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- A few ways to tell a joint in your CV axle may be going bad even if the axle looks alright externally. Bottom line, it needs to be lubricated, sealed from the outside environment, and move freely without excessive play or noise. Hope this helps with your car!
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I finally got over my ex, but these noises just brought back all of her memory 😂😂
Bahahaha bro I'm sorry.
😂😂
Your comment actually helped none of us…good job 🎉
u have a Honda ex too???
Came here hoping for a comment like this. Didn’t disappoint lol
So when you hear the car have a good “gawk gawk game” sound, got it
You pay extra.
Damn my cv axle got that gawk gawk 9001, looks like it's time for a replacement
Lmao literally just posted the same type
Of comment, didn’t think anyone here thought of that. I love the internet.
Actually helped fix a ford too
*birdman hand rub*
Just give it a hauk tuah
@@trolltrama9780damn was bout to comment this
What was the noise again?😂😂😂
Gluc gluc 9000. 😏
😂😂😂
😂😂😂😂😂
@@802Garage😅
😂😂
You may also feel a jerky motion on hard acceleration from a stop which is indicative of a worn inboard CV joint 👍
Yeah when it's getting bad could def happen. Can also be a sign of a failing wheel bearing.
I replaced both my cv axles yesterday on my 04 highlander, they were both cracked inside but hey! they lasted 20 YEARS! They were the original ones, how insane is that?!
The most obvious sign to me was vibration, but only when accelerating, and at speeds of 45 mph and above.
20 years is a very good run! If they weren't clicking or clunking yet, I hope you kept them. You could clean, regrease, and reboot them and get another 10+ years! The OEM axles are so pricey as well. Not that you should need them, but could always sell them on too. Thanks for the comment!
Im also still on my original axles I have a 2004 Toyota Highlander too lol the front driver side boot finally ripped so I’ll have to be replacing those soon
Gawk Gaawk Gawwk That CV Axle Is A Freak 😂
No doubt!
IM GLAD TO SEE THE OLD AXLE REMINDS PPL OF THEIR EX’s 😂
Hahaha you ol' battle axle you.
LMAO
Bro that sound mimicking reminded me of my ex... throat goat
BAHAHAHAHA.
You should call her 🤨😂
@@isaacainley5876 Hahaha true.
For awd cars: Shaking/cabin vibration when accelerating when you let off gas it goes back to a buttery smooth ride quality; most noticable when going up hill or making hard turns.
Yep have def had this a few times and it's so hard to diagnose.
These were my exact symptoms on a fwd 18 Kia Optima LX 2.4. Turned out to be the drivers side cv axle. Was told by some it might be the motor mounts and almost purchased them. Cv axle was cheap on eBay and did the work myself. Easy as changing a flat tire and I've never done this kind of work!
Will it make a loud noise when u take a tight turn?
@@Gsxr69usually like a loud clicking noise.
The noise example was perfect
"squeezing the boobs" ok thanks, lemme quickly go check...
Hahaha gotta do it.
I remember when I worked at a parts store, the CV axles that would come in for cores... Eesh. Yours might as well still be considered good condition compared to those.
Great video!
Hahaha oh definitely! This was more or less a failure preventative repair. 😁
Mine looks better than this and is still bad.
Nice to see a fellow Vermonter WrenchTubin! Nice content!
@@Theunion802 Eyyy yeah I have a ton more to come on UA-cam too just been crazy busy!
I heard that gawk gawk I ran to comments section 💀
Hahaha got to.
lol must be diffrent. I was confused what the comments were on about till I read the gf comment.
Hahaha it's uhhh inappropriate. ;)
Axle is a non critical component I say run it into the ground. Even if it fails at highway speed nothing bad happens it just mean you lose power and slowly come to a stop and move over to the side of the road. If it’s making noise and it’s annoying though I guess you may as well repair if you can afford it. Especially after already paying someone else to diagnose it. I do my own repairs so if I notice a non critical part on its way out I’ll just keep a close eye on it. Unless it’s brakes, wheels, frame steering or suspension it can usually wait. Anything power train related is optional. Still good to maintain the engine and transmission though because they are expensive to replace but that axle is going to cost the same to replace no matter when it fails. Less when the vehicle is old and parts are on clearance actually. I’m also the sort’ve guy who would do a repair on the side of the road or tow my own vehicle though. I’ve literally replaced an axle in a parking lot before.
I'm the same as you. Do all my own car work on the cheap. Drive old rigs with problems I monitor. This was for my dad who used to be the same and has gotten too old to do that anymore so didn't want him to end up stranded. Still did it in the cheap I got a reman A1-Cardone axle for around $45 I think. I generally have good luck with them.
Nah bruh, if that axle joint snaps then the wheel "snaps" off as well and you're swerving to stop from hitting someone/thing and you're stuck on the road. If you hear the popping noise when turning, replace ASAP, but in the meantime make your turns slow AF! Remember if you lose control and hit someone, YOU are still responsible and will pay for their damages!
If an axle fails at speed, the car will start pulling to one side and depending on if you have a open diff or a limited slip (RWD and FWD only), you’ll need a tow truck.
I've changed my timing belt and the water pump on a parking lot and everything else you can imagine ...
Welcome to Gboard clipboard, any text you copy will be saved here.
You answered my question in the first 30 seconds 🙏🏾
If your car is shaking when you give it gas on highway especially when you floor it then you most likely have a bad cv axel or two if there is no codes etc.
Def one of the causes yep.
lm having that problem on my hyndai
Hell yeah my car shaking its ass off in the front 😂😂 cv axle probably on both sides
Shaking, excess vibrations, hesitation or a "dead spot" upon initial acceleration are all signs of a bad CV. Kinda annoying people automatically assume clunking and clicking is always going to be a dead give away of a CV. What they're not taking into account is that the output shaft of the CV passes through the knuckle/wheel bearing and the velocity joint on the wheel side of CV is a bearing in of itself, it just articulates differently then a wheel bearing. When a CV goes bad from age, it can and usually will mimic a bad wheel bearing. I can't tell you how many times in the forums I've read stories of people replacing all of their wheel bearings only end up having to replace their CV axles down the line because they were the actual problem and every symptom they had pointed to a bad wheel bearing yet once replaced, almost all of their symptoms remained.
Love it. I hope to be able to contribute like this one day
Thanks, that means a lot! Next time you learn some info that was hard to find, share it. :D
I think you found a good catchy sound for your videos 😂
@@stephenanderson5630 Hahaha gotta make more gluc gluc noises.
Came in when I needed you, i guess my axles are bad
Acceleration or hard left or right turns, loud clicking noise.
Yeah especially for the fronts.
CLICKING NOISE while turning from a stop (5mph-10mph) is another sign. changing mine tomorrow.
Absolutely. Good luck!
I blew both my axle boots while off-roading in feb of 23 on my 07 FJ and am just now getting around to replacing them. Toyota CVs are just built different
@@mrblondeheart9562 Hahaha they can last quite a long time!
Don’t hear any clucking noise tbh but gas pedal does shake a ton and car when I’m going 40mph or when my rpm is a lil above 2 is when it shakes bad I’m going to do a diagnosis on the cv joints and the mounts soon but even if the cv joint isn’t making a clunk noise it can still cause your vehicle to vibrate at high speeds ? Just changed the spark plugs and it definitely help make the car run better when at complete stops and help it idle better but not sure just gotta wait I guess till I get underneath
I took my tires off for a brake change & I placed my tires back on in an angle which made two of the lug nuts either break or fall off and I had a loud axle noise but bc it was also being driven on an angle.. got new lug nuts and everything was fixed $15.. thought I was going to spend atleast 300
This video gives me “wannabe Chris Fix” vibes. From the tone to the video setup to the finger with gloves pointing at what’s in the background
I'll take it as a compliment. ;) I started doing short form content like this several years ago now and initially wanted to keep my face out of the videos because I wasn't sure about TikTok. It's just kind of how I explain stuff, even if I send videos to friends in private, but I won't say ChrisFix hasn't been an influence, even if I never tried to copy him. I can do a great impression though! My long form content is a very different vibe. :)
So if the car sounds like it's deep throating Ron Jeremy, the axle might be bad. Got it, thanks.
My left join cv is whole a little oil wet, but right is dry
@@oskarmakedonian7609 If it is greasy all over, the boot probably split. The outside of the boot should be dry and not cracked.
Really good video. Thanks 👍
@@billsutorius2753 You're welcome thanks for the comment.
Yeah what’s that noise again
Gluc gluc. 😂
Thanks, btw you have the voice of a radio announcer
Haha wow really appreciate that!
Can a sufficiently bad and imbalanced axle shaft cause damage to the transaxle axle-bearing?
Also if u hear clunking noise on turns and bump and indication it's bad.
Oh snap that gawk gawk sound when slowing down is a bad Axel??? Cuz i kept thinking it was my brakes or my calipers but was told those were fine, and still keep hearing a crunchy sound when braking with '04 honda civic
I think just as likely it could be a bad wheel bearing. Especially if it's when moving slowly and it's sort of a crunchy squeaky noise almost like a fast rocking chair. In my experience that's usually a wheel bearing that has lost all the grease and the rollers are damaged and creaking across the race surfaces. Jack up each corner and spin the wheel and see if it's smooth or grinding and check for play by grabbing the top and bottom of the wheel and pushing and pulling opposite directions.
@802Garage okay thank you will do!
@@94XBlackXEyedXPeas Good luck.
I'm hearing weird noises like snap or clicking when I stir the wheel to the left. Is this the one I should replace?
Most likely your front left axle.
I have a 2020 charger amd i have a rear end knock and it only happens when i have people in car and when i slowly accelerate...i lift car up and it doesnt make the noise only when on ground moving...
@@obs_oskar9128 Hmmm hard to say, but if it's a consistent noise at low speed until you get going faster, could be axle or bearing.
Check the wheel bearings
@@PaulBickram Def.
When are we getting a vid on the Impreza
I'd say very soon, but I am probably going to release the rotary swapped BRZ series first. Keep your eyes on Insta and TikTok though if you use either of those. Updates there very soon. Probably Facebook as well.
Can a bad axle cause the car to shake when turning sharp right at 50kmh+ but when going forward or turning left it works normaly
In my experience, yes. I would also thoroughly check your ball joints and tie rod ends. I find a ball joint can cause that often, even if it doesn't seem very loose on first inspection.
I have a 2003 Pontiac Vibe. I think my rotational clunk is coming from the front right wheel, but it seem to only happen when I lift off the gas and in a lower gear such as 3rd. I hope it is just the cv joint and not the transmission.
Doubt it's transmission. If it's only a single clunk and not a repeated clicking noise, it could also be a suspension component like a ball joint. There is also a chance it's a wheel bearing.
@@802Garage it seems to be repetitive and only when letting off of the gas. Wheel bearing was replaced about a year ago. I plan to take off the knuckle from the axel and check it out. Appreciate the reply.
Operator error. I did not torque my lug nuts to specs. I did that tonight and the clunk is gone.
@@edbrandt8972 Beautiful! Well, that you caught it at least. I don't use a torque wrench on everything, but after the mistakes I've made and seen, I always torque lug nuts.
What is the preventative maintenance when installing to prolong the life of one of these? Rust spray or covering it with grease of some sort?
@@joesphschramm3754 In general they should be maintenance free, but heat shielding the boots if they are near an exhaust or something hot is crucial. A rubber treatment and protectant like 303 Aerospace can also help the boots live longer.
04 envoy 4.2l Hey, i have two of those looking boots only on one side and the other one has alot of wetness on the boot
I have a 04 GMC Envoy. I was curious what that would be called
What did cincerella say when she got to the ball
Don't get me wrong I like the educational part too 👍
@@titustinnitus4346 Hahaha I am so confused.
@@802Garage haha sorry man, do you know that joke question
"what did Cinderella when she got to the ball?"
"*glug* *glug* *glug*"
Because she gagged
Sounds just like your imitation of the sound the car made while decelerating
But I still wanted to let you know I like the content. I'm a car mechanic too, I love whenever customers try replicating a sound with all their energy. Also love when they feel awkward when they're too shy to do it themselves so I go "ok so was it more of a *brrrrrrrr*, or more like a *whowhowhow*?"
@@titustinnitus4346 Hahaha I thought that might be the joke, but I wasn't 100% sure. I get the pun now. DUH. Yes, people enthusiastically imitating car sounds is so helpful! Thanks for the comments. :D
Can i just re-lube it?
And then fix leak?
If it's already making a lot of noise, it's likely already damaged, but it could last a while. If it isn't making noise and the boot is just ripped or the grease has gone, then yes. Either way you buy a new boot, disassemble, clean, put on the boot, regrease, and go.
@@802Garage It only made noise one time when going up a steep hill.
Bunch of clicking.
I just bought it a month and a half ago and didn't realize it was already leaking.
Could have been for many months.
But thank you for your response!
@@sincerelyrob4240 Ugh that has happened to me before with parts store axles. If you bought it less than a year ago it should be under warranty I would just exchange it.
Hopefully the last repair for now…I say it every time…
Hahaha right?
Very useful!
@@marcosramos4596 Thanks!
And when i turn the steering whell to only one side when in reverse makes a sound down belowe but doest have the noise turning the other way. 04 envoy 4.2l
acted up when decelerating?
I believe that was primarily when it made noise, but I honestly forget.
Why did he sounded like the future immigrants from South Park 😂
Bahahahaha.
ignored all these signs now I have a broken axle 😂😂
My car shakes when i brake in the freeway, i wonder if it needs new rotors axle or ball joints one of those is causing it to shake when i brake
Rotors
I occasionally feel a clicking motion coming from front driver side wheel when I’m turning as I pull out of my driveway or do u turns. Is this a sign of a bad axle?
Most likely yes. Inspect the axle boot close to the front driver wheel and see if it is obviously cracked or leaking grease. If it is, bare minimum it needs to be regreased and rebooted. Chances are if it is clicking it should be replaced. Even if there is no visible grease, it could still be going bad, just less likely.
Thanks dude 😎
Thank you!
So In this case without the teeth being grind out , would I just be able to replace the boots if I caught it later on?
Yes! As long as the axle is not badly damaged internally you can clean, regrease, and reboot the axle. It it has been clicking quite badly for some time, it is likely damaged. If it is not making a lot of noise and has just lost the grease, much more economical to replace the boot, though it is more work. Slava Ukraini!
@@802Garage thanks man I do all the work on my saved thousands and did my struts all around and noticed this and look like it exploded 😂 grease everywhere but good to know thanks 💪
@@standwithukraine3011 Yep it happens! Boots with grease are usually like $15-30. It can be a bit of a pain to disassemble the axle, but if they are OEM especially they are worth saving.
Will cv axle cause a noise when going slow and tapping on brakes it sounds like clunk clunk type sound
It is possible, but my bet is a wheel bearing.
Why nobody talks about those two massive Turbos in the background? 😮
If you try TRQ axle they will fix the weird subaru axle wobble in accel
Haven't personally had the issue that I know of, but thanks!
@802Garage I've had it a couple times with my subarus on moderate-heavy acceleration it'll feel like wheel balance on takeoff but getting higher quality axles fix it
@@mryork_ Yeah I've had it going around slight corners barely on throttle. Not for a long time, but I know what you mean.
@@802Garage I'm trying the trq severe duty mega beefy axles on my Baja turbo 😏
@@mryork_ Love it!
If it ain’t broken don’t fix it
Or fix until it's broken
Where you been??
In New Jersey right now just worked on the rotary swap BRZ more. Lots of videos coming, just gotta edit haha. More recent updates on TikTok/Facebook/Instagram.
for my subaru forester the boot just completely popped off after 45k miles.
On my Honda rancher these get broken all the time by binding them in thick mud
bruh the comments are brutal with you 😂
On a more serious note, I assume you mean "cv joint" every time you say "cv axle", right? The description also says joint failiure signs
CV axle is the term for the full assembly with shafts and joints. Just specifies the type of axle. Or driveshaft if you're from England or Australia or whatever hahaha. CV joint refers to the individual joint attached to the axle. So usually when someone has a bad joint they say they have a bad axle and replace the whole thing anyways. So yeah kinda interchangeable, but contextual. And it's all good the comments are hilarious. 😂
Will this cause jerking in a manual car? I have a 13 Ford fiesta. I thought it feels like maybe a transmission mount. But I know for a fact my other axle is bad. Grease all over it. I get a little shake if I'm accelerating then let off suddenly. I don't really hear any noise just the shake. Also feels like it's really hard to drive the car It jerks alot more than any manual car I've driven. This also happens in first gear. It feels like it would if I gave gas and let clutch out to fast. Lmk your thoughts
It is possible. Basically if the axle is damaged and/or lacking lubrication, the balls or races they ride in could be causing vibration. If they are worn, broken, or have notches in them the balls essentially cog over the uneven surfaces and cause binding or shaking. I'm not going to say it's definitely your issue, but it's possible. I would expect you to hear clicking from the axle if it was that bad, especially if you turn the wheel fully in one direction and drive. You should hear a loud repeated clicking. Also possible your issue is a very bad wheel bearing.
I had before I replaced my driver side axle. Had a shaking if I turn the wheel hard to the right. I'm thinking axle maybe il replaceme mounts. I'm hoping it's not a clutch or something to do with the transmission
@@MatthewTitterington-bq7eh I doubt it is the clutch or transmission. You would have other larger issues. Mounts could definitely cause some issues. Not sure if that car has a jack shaft or a bearing mounted half shaft, but check that too.
ive been driving with torn boots for 9 years, still no clicking
Hahaha sometimes they'll live for ages, especially in the rear.
when i’m coming to a stop i always hear sounds like a clunking/gear movement sound, i thought it was related to the transmission but you also hear a ticking when driving slow and turning slow at low speeds. but also nothing visually wrong with it. would those be signs of a bad cv-axle? also what cause the clunking if so.
Usually when it happens while coming to a stop like that or when driving slow it ends up being a wheel bearing. I'd jack up each corner and spin the wheels to listen for grumbling plus shake the tire by grabbing the top and bottom and see if they're loose.
Good explan brother
I want the look inside the boot
When I hit the brake, it makes a clicking noise like a card on a bicycle tire. Is that the cv axle?
That is... A very good question. It could be, but check your rotors and make sure one isn't wearing through to the vanes. If it happens mostly with the wheel slightly turned, probably axle. Try turning the wheel completely left and driving backwards and forwards in an open lot then repeat turned all the way right. If you hear repeated clicking one way or another, that's an axle popping.
@@802Garagethank you very much for the response. I will try that out.
Should there be any play in the axle or are they rock solid? Having trouble diagnosing hard acceleration vibration. Had 2 aftermarkets replaced the passenger side that was wobbling no ripped boots. Now the vibration has lessned alot but is slightly there. Drivers side doesn't wobble but dont know if play at the inner joint in normal
The inner axle usually can slide to account for the axle changing length as the suspension moves. The outer joint should not have in and out movement or play when you try to turn the axle front to back. The inner joint only should not have play when you try to turn the axle forward and back. Hopefully that makes sense. If you can grab the axle and kind of shake the whole thing around inside of the cage, like radial play, that's also not great. A lot of the times cheap aftermarket axles will cause vibration unfortunately.
Worn tires also vibrate
Are you sure that noise came from your axle ? Not from your ex ?
more of these shorts!
There will def be more. :) Thanks!
@@802Garage you' re welcome! I also left another comment but it disappeared! Whatever I said that I am out of instagram for a while (multiple reasons but also lack of time needed for it except sometimes), and also that I left the comment concerning the power delievery, that I also left on your instagram post on this...on instagram I have written "when a CV messed up like that is delievering whp, are these whp much worse than a brand new one without play and with a stiffer everything?"
I suppose the power delievery is going to be much smoother, probably it makes steering being more accurate too because of better torque sent to the wheels!
@@802Garage l did not abandon instagram, but actually other than a tool for learning some few tech pages that I follow, there is not much at the moment, also, lack of time...by the way I have a question...
is the Engine from the Subaru BRZ actually an EJ, or is it actually new from scratch ?
I know I may look it on google, but you had unmounted it so you can tell better...
If it is not an EJ, and my instinct tells me it is not, or it could be EJ sourced (like the RB26DETT is sourced from normal RB's), then I wouldnt be surprised...but they made it for giving a whole new responsiveness I presume
@@giallomodena8 I would suspect even a dry and crunchy CV would only sap a few % of horsepower at most until failure. Generally you won't feel much in a straight line and you'll just get ugly noises when turning.
As for the Subaru engine, the BRZ uses an FA engine. Subaru no longer uses the EJ engine at all. The last car to have an EJ based engine was the STI until it ended production in 2022. The WRX switched to an FA engine in 2014 IIRC. The BRZ uses an FA20, the WRX used the FA20DIT, the current family of Subaru engines are all FA/FB which are the same basic architecture. The biggest engines currently are the FB25 for most cars and the FA24 which there are a few versions. The turbo version tuned for torque in the Ascent, the turbo version with a more sporty tune in the new WRX, and the NA version in the new BRZ. Main differences between the FA and EJ engines are that it is timing chain, features direct injection on most models, though many also have port injection, it has offset connecting rod ends, I believe the overall assembly is a bit lighter, and obviously there are several other small differences, but it is a clean sheet design from the early 2010s.
really good at making that sound there, car boy
😘
I saw Adam LZ' s channel a few minutes ago, I scrolled briefly...I saw no material or videos on the Simca Aronde or Citroen Visa or Renault 14 not even the Volkswagen 1600 Typ 3...then I walked away...
Bahahaha it's true. You might actually enjoy his recent videos on the rotary powered Datsun though.
why always Engine Swap ? At least Rotaru kinda has a point it got also me interested who I am against in general of any rotary swapping of non rotary swapping car, you can tell how the difference of mentality kicks in by doing this question! I dont know if Adam LZ knows that the 1978 FA4 Mazda 323 aka Mazda GLC in the USA was the last RWD Mazda 323/ Protege/ Familia and it was sold in South Africa with the 4G3 Engine, made by Mitsubishi...cause I knew it a few days ago...most of the time tho now I am observing Engines, focusing on the geography of them and I have improved my capacities of absorbing the information about vehicles. All the "built not bought eat sleep drift repeat" things are just entertainment to me now, no ranting, I am just telling you what I look for lol...of course I have improved my capacities on Dirt Rally 2.0 and driving techniques on Simulator, better than before...but I am doing much more of a loner' s job, more like testing cars...and knowing the circuits.
Rotaru has a point because it perfectly nails the concept of weight distribuition and the car is nothing extreme when it comes to power, damn I sometimes think its inspired by the British way of doing things, because they are into doing cars in the 400 hp tier and not that much of a weight, instead of 900 bhp cars that weight 2 tonnes ...Rotaru aka RX9 is even British by concept, like MX5 and RX7 are...
Great info thank u
Does a bad one make clicking type sounds when backing , wheels turned ??? 🤔
Yes that would usually be a sign of a bad axle.
@@802Garage thank you 👍🏽
@@trakyboy5128 Welcome!
Cv axle was giving that sloppy tippy
Bro what kind of noise was that 💀
Mine just went bad…
Sadge. 🥲
good axel CV joint issues explanation # 👍🇵🇰
All thats needed is more grease, but you go to a mechanic and they recommend to change the entire thing for $800. Crooks.
The round pin that holds the rubber to the axle came lose on mine, the mechanic told me i needed an axle replacement, pointed to the grease leaking everywhere. The car was not having any issues prior, no clanking noise of the sort. I jacked the car up, observed it and realize the ring pin was lose, the rubber boot itself was still in tact, but slipped off. Bought a new ring and clip. Now my boot is air tight. The mechanic wanted to charge me $670 to replace it. Crooks. They will take advantage of your lack of knowledge. Always recommending a job that is unnecessary. My axles are as strong as ever, i definitely prefer them over the flimsy non OEM aftermarket that have reputations of wrecking before you pull up to your driveway after leaving the shop
I agree with pretty much everything you said. Even when a boot is ripped, if it has not gone for too long, you can typically replace the boot much cheaper than the entire axle. Like you said, the OEM axle is also generally far superior to the cheaper aftermarket axles. The problem is, it is a fair bit of labor to remove the CV, clean it, and replace the boot. So most mechanics would rather get the job done faster and make more money. It's not how I like to do things, but when you do need to save time personally it also makes sense. In this case the axle had been making some clicking noise and had been dry for quite a while, so just regreasing it probably would have mostly solved the issue, but the boots were so old and cracked that they should be replaced as well. Just replacing the boots would have been $30 or more plus a lot of labor, and I didn't have that much time. This was actually my dad's car. I did keep the old axle as a spare in case I ever feel like rebuilding it.
It's like making a diagnosis without an x-ray or an autopsy! 🤦♂️
@@ambassador8716 Doctors make diagnoses based on experience all the time. What did I say that's incorrect?
@@802Garage At least the fact that doctors do diagnose based on their experience. This is utter stupidity! Secondly, the fact that you squeezed the old rubber with your hands, and then the new one, filled with grease to the brim - this does not mean that the old CV joint is out of order! If it comes down to it, could you at least tug it properly to determine if there is a characteristic play and knock of wear? Just remove the dust boots, wash out the old grease, visually inspect the wear, if it is minimal (no play), fill this unit with new grease, install a new dust boot and drive on. So do not mislead people with a smart look of an expert.
@@ambassador8716 Well it's not utter stupidity because I was correct. The CV joint was causing the noise and replacing it fixed it. I have dealt with a lot of bad axles.
The point of pushing on the boot was to demonstrate A. That it's no longer air tight and B. That it was longer full of grease as it should be.
No a dry joint does not automatically mean a bad joint, but that's why it was one symptom or cause, not the entire reasoning.
I feel you are both putting words in my mouth and ignoring the rest of the video and context. Tugging on an axle by hand will tell you almost nothing. You can't generate anywhere near the forces to replicate an on car issue unless the joint is incredibly worn or badly damaged.
I agree that rebuilding this axle was an option and I advocate doing so. However that's not what this video was about. It was about diagnosing an axle issue.
Even if you clean and regrease an axle which is making noise, if there are already wear spots in the cage or on the balls, it will likely continue to make noise, cause vibration, or wear more quickly in the future. You generally have to catch an axle boot leak before the internal mechanism is damaged to have an ideal candidate for a rebuild.
You can also rebuild then swap axle sides where possible to get more mileage out of it. However, this video was not about that.
I had very limited time to do this job as my father had to leave soon, so replacement was the option over rebuild. I still have the old axle in case I want to rebuild and reuse it someday.
Your reaction and insults are frankly unnecessary and unhelpful. You did not point to anything I said in the video which was incorrect and you also went out of scope for the video. Not every video can be about every topic.
I hope this better explains the purpose of the video and what I know on the topic. I did not spread any misinformation. It was a quick video about general symptoms of a failing axle.
You sound like the guy from ProjectFarm
That's a new one hahaha.
Those noises coming out of your mouth 😭😭
I could smell the comments a mile away
Is this Chrisfix doppleganger
Nah just some bozo doing car stuff. Chris is a G though.
@@802Garage haha you did good bud
@@keenanryan8735 Haha thanks!
@@keenanryan8735 Haha thanks!
@@802Garage course bro…tossing around whether or not i am confident enough to help my pops do this one their van
I’ve heard that noise in a room not a car tho 😭
Gluck gluck 9000.
Bad CV axles make vibrations on accelerations not decceleratins if the inner joint is bad and clicking noise on turns with load.
If the boots are sealed where did the grease go on the old CV joints?.
They can make vibrations on both depending on CV angle and where the wear is in the joint. Obviously the seal was broken either via a hard to see crack, a pinhole, or seeping past the seal.
@@802Garage no they don't.
@@thecarfixchannel3046 Yes, they do, hahaha. Have you ever taken apart a CV joint? If you understand what causes the vibrations, you'll understand how.
@@802Garage In your vedio you said the CV was making vibration on deceleration not acceleration and according to you it should make vibration in both conditions so tell me why I want to learn.
@@thecarfixchannel3046 Well, no. In this video I said it was making a noise on deceleration not that you could feel a vibration in the car. The reason it can make a noise on deceleration is that whatever the wear pattern on the races is, such as if there is a groove dug into the metal from lack of lubrication, you may not hear it while the axle is under load because the ball is forced up against the race and rides the ridges. Plus the noise may be covered up by other noises in the car or the forces are such that the ball rides in the groove. On deceleration, a space is allowed to open up between the ball and the grooves or wear in the races. This space exists because of the abnormal wear on the axle. Because the forces acting on the axle are now different than the default, which is usually with some force turning the axle forward while driving, it may also be resting in a slightly different position than when you are usually driving. There is then the opportunity for the ball to essentially bounce and deflect across the wear patterns or move back and forth up against the race as the axle is spinning. It may be riding in and out of the ridge because the axle is slightly more extended or retracted than usual, causing the ball to skip over the worn ridge repeatedly as the axle rotates. Typically if you take apart a CV axle, it won't be completely equally worn all the way around, there will be worse grooves in some races or alternatively individual damaged balls, which can all cause the same symptoms as above it's just the ball operating in an unusual manner instead of the ball riding over the races in a strange way. All that said, this can also cause vibrations on deceleration for the same reason. For example, let's say you are going downhill and you have a bad front axle. The axle is obviously not completely blown, but it is out of grease and it has a worn race or damaged ball. The hill is slightly curved so you have the wheel turned a few degrees. You let off the gas and coast down the hill, the axle is now loaded backwards from usual because the force of the tire is what is driving the axle rather than the force from the engine and transmission. You also have the axle turned slightly, meaning the balls are not riding in the typical groove when the wheels are pointed straight forward. You now have a scenario where the ball has the most opportunity to bounce in and out of the worn groove, or where the damaged ball can repeatedly bounce against the race with the damaged surface. As the ball bounces in and out of the groove, that creates a force inside the axle which is transmitted to the shaft and of course to both the tire, and therefore the steering wheel, and in the other direction to the drive train, meaning you will feel a vibration in the wheel, in the chassis, or both. The other reason this can happen is if it is a used axle and it is on the opposite side of the car from where it used to be, or if for example someone has swapped their axles side to side after rebuilding to get more life out of them because they are avoiding it riding in the same wear pattern it did for most of its life. Then you will have where in the reverse direction of the axle, and you will therefore experience the noises and vibration only when driving in reverse or in an example like the downhill coasting as I illustrated above.
That’s a flat rate parts changer right there
Whatcha mean? I've never worked for a mechanic shop in my life and I'm cheap and hourly. This was for my dad and we didn't have time to rebuild the axle plus the replacement was cheap.
Damn, do that noise again.
Gluc gluc.
@@802Garage😂😂
It’s a Subaru, so no, no it will not be the last thing you fix for a while 😂
Hahaha surprisingly this car has had few things go wrong since. It's my dad's Outback. It has like 245,000 miles on it or something. My 1993 Impreza basically never has anything wrong. 😂 290,000 miles.
Myine is making the gwak gwak noise too.
Chrisfix light😂
Just doing what I can for the world. 😂
Thought i was watching Chris Fix
He said SHAFT
Should have arrested her mom
Bro that sound made me remember my ex 😅
Hahaha good ex.
@@802Garage yes siiiir hahhahaa
@@amaroqz2105 😂
God please cleanse me of a perverse heart
There is no last repair on a Subaru.
I cant even pry mine out! Its stuck!
If it's a front axle on a Subaru, make sure there isn't a roll pin holding it in place. Otherwise, the best technique I've found to pop a stuck axle is to use a fat chisel or a pry bar between the axle and trans housing and just tap it with a hammer. Careful not to hammer like crazy or damage the trans obviously. Do at your own risk hahaha.
It only uses a c-clip. I finally got my pry bar on and hit it with by sledge hammer. Pry bar fell out but i think it came lose. Im taking a breather and i will check in a minute. Im having a bad day!@@802Garage
I simply pulled the axke back out a little and rotated it and it whent right in. Theres no pin.@@802Garage
Yep your type no pin. Just wanted to be sure because there was on the older type. Glad you got it.
Wuuuuut?!??!? Easy enough to break it down, clean it out, repack it with grease. A lot less waste.
I often do, but a lot of people don't have the skills or resources. In this case I didn't have the time available either.