I have the EXACT same issue with my 2012 Kia Sorento. I am ALWAYS grateful for youtubers who go through the hassle of making these videos since you REALLY saved me a lot of guesswork and time by showing me how to loosen the tensioner. Thanks a ton!
Great vid, thanks. I have a 2012 with only 30k miles and still had the same idler pulley noise. B/c you showed us where the tensioner nut was, I was able to do the entire replacement from the topside in about 20 minutes.
Good video, very detailed and thorough. We have a 2011 Kia Sorento that also has the 3.5L V6, and it currently has 258K miles on it, with no major issues so far. We've replaced a few suspension items over the years, the door locks have been replaced a couple of times under warranty, but other than that it has been a great car. We recently got a newer car for my wife to drive, so our teenage son is driving the Kia. I'm ashamed to admit it, but it still has the original shocks/struts, belts, hoses, plugs, etc., so I bought new shocks/struts, drive belt, spark plugs, etc., and plan to replace those as soon as I can get him to stay home long enough :). I also need to get a new tensioner and idler pulley, even though these aren't making any noise (well, none that I can hear), but it would be foolish to take all of this apart without replacing those. I'm having a hard time deciding between the $150 tensioner from Advance Auto, and the $30 one from eBay; can the cheaper one be just as good, even though it costs 1/5 as much? Any way, keep up the good work.
Darrell Kidd Go with quality. Here’s a tip about Advance. Use discount codes. Most of the time they pop up on the screen. I still use P20 and get 20% off. Sometimes a 25% pops up. Google search helps. Bought some struts for my 97 Camry once and used the 25% off. That’s one free! They were 120 bucks each. Order online and pick up at the store.
HI! Just read your comment and have a quick question if you don't mind. I have a 2012 Kia Sorento with 117,000 miles. The only problem so far is the one described in this video. When I started to consider the transmission, I realized it was fully contained. Have you checked your transmission fluid or changed it? If you did, at what mileage? And is your 2011 got a fully sealed tranny? Thanks for an answer if you read this!
@@johngreener9784 Hi John, if I remember correctly, we had the dealer service the transmission back several years ago. I don't remember the mileage, probably between 100-150K. I'm sure it could use it again (it now has close to 260K), and I'll probably carry it to a transmission shop or the dealer again, as I have no idea how to service it. I don't know if it's fully sealed, but I don't think it's just as simple as dropping the tranny pan, changing the filter, and replacing the fluid.
John Greener Yes, mine is fully contained. No dipstick. I had to replace a sensor inside the housing. The housing is a real pain to get to and remove. Very tight space and you have to relocate things around it. Not for the faint of heart. Checking the fluid required warming up the engine and have it in idle. Removed a little cap on the side. Supposed to have a thin stream. I believe my mileage was a little over 100,000. I still need to do my differentials (all wheel drive)
Great video sir; quite the interesting job!! FOR THE KIA FORTE EX owners I thought I'd piggyback with my discoveries;Remove the tire to clear the wheel well and turn the steering wheel full right for better access. All three of the small idle pulleys need to be removed period for better access! The tensioner pulley bolt is LEFTY TIGHTY and the other idle pulleys are LEFTY LOOSY! MAKE A ROUTING MAP OF BELT PLACEMENT and when reinstalling you will pinch a small loop and go in from front top at an angle between the air pump and between idle pulley and tensioner. Long handle open/boxed in wrenches would help greatly; 17mm, 15mm, 14mm or do what I did use a boxed in over the open end to extend it. Its only difficult due to cramped work area. First time took me and son 3.5 hrs. Hope this helps!!
Thanks for the video! I have a 2013 sorento LX (2.4L GDI) with nearly 200k on it, so I think I'm going to replace both the tensioner and idler/accessory pulleys. I've already done the belt before and it's definitely easier to remove the passenger tire and splash guards and go from underneath. Also I think I have the spring tensioner as opposed to your hydraulic (gas?) tensioner. You might have the V6 model (EX trim) so I feel like it would help some people to mention that.
good vid, a tad too long for a pulley replacement however. also for those that are watching this my little 2 cents is to always start belt route w/ crank pulley and other "grooved pulleys" and "slide" belt onto the "smooth" pulleys in this case it also happens to be the tensioner thus making it SUPER EASY to replace belt and then tighten belt tension/er. no need to pull and tug!
That's a great trick with the improvised megaphone. Made from a very long handled screwdriver and a cut off gallon plastic jug, for those who haven't watched the video. Reaches farther than my stethoscope, and doesn't go directly in my ears. Loud sounds can HURT your ears.
Thanks for this. I have an Australian 2010 XM with the 2.2 litre CRDi with approx 100K miles. It is making an intermittent rattle in the drive belt area at start up. Checked bearings but suspect it may be either alternator clutch or AC clutch.
Thank you, very clear and easy video, I'm going to do the same for my sorento 2013 V6 as I have issues with the tensioner. so, I'm going to check all the related items as you've shown in the video.
actually 35 years plus as a mechanic only ever saw a serpentine belt fail less then 5 times and always because a pulley froze and it was burned off . seen many a belt that looked hundred times worse then that. you only really need to replace a belt if its noisy. (this is for your own vehicles to save money ..when working on other peoples shit "always" advise a new belt simply because you are already there and if they don't want one you will get paid to go back later if it fails.
I have a 2011 Kia Sorento, and it makes the same noise, but not as long. It sounds just for a few seconds then stops. then the rest of the day, no noise. Unless the engine is off long enough to cool down. Then it sounds again.
My 2005 Kia Sorento is making the EXACT noise. It just started yesterday. How do I know if it's that? I'm a woman and don't know anything about motors but I'm trying. I'm sorry but what pully is that to? I hope that question makes sense.
I have 2013 kia forte it's the alternator pully deff..and always use blue factory oil filter or your lifters sound loud..Using aftermarket filter is a no no on Kia's
I just brought a 2005 kia sorento making the same noise. And the ppl I got it from didn't want to fix it. It was a used car lot. They said the jeep was in perfect condition. What was the pulleys you named?
Has thr same issue however the KIa Machanic fixed it in the parking lot in 5 min without taking anything off the engine still don't know how he did it.
I also got a grinding noise on my Kia Soul and i dont know where it comes... i already switched 3 pulleys and it still does the damn sound... All am left its the most expensive parts, the AC, alternator, crankshaft, etc...
I have a 2010 Kia Sportage that is making the same noise Lx AWD 2.7 litre engine.it occurs at idle,and noticeable at acceleration.Does anyone have a Kia/Tucson with same problem?I,m open to ideas and solutions.Thank you
My wife's car engine was totally replaced under recall and I thought the noise would go away, but the used all the bolt on parts from the original engine.
Sounds like the dealer went a little cheap. I can't figure that since the parts are not that expensive and you are already there labor wise. It's even easier when the engine is out.
great video scoured the web and this was only video about this friggin tensioner ..brother wife drove sorento for indeterminate amount of time with 1 quart of oil and throwing check engine light on .. codes for cam phasers came up and she only decided to stop driving it because the ac compressor makes a lot of clatter like a rod knock .. had ac compressor not been bad the engine would have died (from abuse) anyway cam phasers ok once 4 quarts oil added ..codes cleared ..50 miles on it since however want to drop oil pan to inspect the rod caps for bluing from lack of oil prior to flushing the system and cleaning the oil pan and pick up tube. also need to remove ac compressor to drop oil pan as well as get model info on replacement $$$ and all this is after this stupid drive belt is removed .. they bought this pos without consulting me and now its my problem. anyway spent all day trying to get drive belt removal info as stupid kia online only included info for 4 cyl and even then vague and unclear.
Thanks Tom . Great video . I followed it and it worked out. I was also able to narrow down ( after removal ) which pulley had failed bearing . I made a quick video on how to identify it here: ua-cam.com/video/V8ELj0wsbWg/v-deo.html
Kia sucks ,never buy Kias the worst , a neighbor of mine bought a 2014 kia sorento from a used dealer lot a year ago , wallah a problem appeared when accelerating there is a grinding noise
9:26 is where he actually starts the engine.
pro tip: you can watch movies on Flixzone. I've been using it for watching lots of of movies these days.
@Leonidas Korbyn yup, been watching on Flixzone for since november myself :D
@Leonidas Korbyn Definitely, been using flixzone for years myself =)
I have the EXACT same issue with my 2012 Kia Sorento. I am ALWAYS grateful for youtubers who go through the hassle of making these videos since you REALLY saved me a lot of guesswork and time by showing me how to loosen the tensioner. Thanks a ton!
Amen. Much love to you guys.
Great vid, thanks. I have a 2012 with only 30k miles and still had the same idler pulley noise. B/c you showed us where the tensioner nut was, I was able to do the entire replacement from the topside in about 20 minutes.
Good video, very detailed and thorough. We have a 2011 Kia Sorento that also has the 3.5L V6, and it currently has 258K miles on it, with no major issues so far. We've replaced a few suspension items over the years, the door locks have been replaced a couple of times under warranty, but other than that it has been a great car. We recently got a newer car for my wife to drive, so our teenage son is driving the Kia. I'm ashamed to admit it, but it still has the original shocks/struts, belts, hoses, plugs, etc., so I bought new shocks/struts, drive belt, spark plugs, etc., and plan to replace those as soon as I can get him to stay home long enough :). I also need to get a new tensioner and idler pulley, even though these aren't making any noise (well, none that I can hear), but it would be foolish to take all of this apart without replacing those. I'm having a hard time deciding between the $150 tensioner from Advance Auto, and the $30 one from eBay; can the cheaper one be just as good, even though it costs 1/5 as much? Any way, keep up the good work.
Darrell Kidd
Go with quality. Here’s a tip about Advance. Use discount codes. Most of the time they pop up on the screen. I still use P20 and get 20% off. Sometimes a 25% pops up. Google search helps. Bought some struts for my 97 Camry once and used the 25% off. That’s one free! They were 120 bucks each. Order online and pick up at the store.
HI! Just read your comment and have a quick question if you don't mind. I have a 2012 Kia Sorento with 117,000 miles. The only problem so far is the one described in this video. When I started to consider the transmission, I realized it was fully contained. Have you checked your transmission fluid or changed it? If you did, at what mileage? And is your 2011 got a fully sealed tranny? Thanks for an answer if you read this!
@@johngreener9784 Hi John, if I remember correctly, we had the dealer service the transmission back several years ago. I don't remember the mileage, probably between 100-150K. I'm sure it could use it again (it now has close to 260K), and I'll probably carry it to a transmission shop or the dealer again, as I have no idea how to service it. I don't know if it's fully sealed, but I don't think it's just as simple as dropping the tranny pan, changing the filter, and replacing the fluid.
@@darrellkidd5177 Thanks for info and quick response!
John Greener
Yes, mine is fully contained. No dipstick. I had to replace a sensor inside the housing. The housing is a real pain to get to and remove. Very tight space and you have to relocate things around it. Not for the faint of heart. Checking the fluid required warming up the engine and have it in idle. Removed a little cap on the side. Supposed to have a thin stream. I believe my mileage was a little over 100,000. I still need to do my differentials (all wheel drive)
Great video. Having the same problem with my Sorento LX. After watching your I hope to complete this project over the weekend.
Thanks. It makes me very nervous to get near moving parts with the screwdriver to my ear. When something gets caught it isn't forgiving.
Great video sir; quite the interesting job!! FOR THE KIA FORTE EX owners I thought I'd piggyback with my discoveries;Remove the tire to clear the wheel well and turn the steering wheel full right for better access. All three of the small idle pulleys need to be removed period for better access! The tensioner pulley bolt is LEFTY TIGHTY and the other idle pulleys are LEFTY LOOSY! MAKE A ROUTING MAP OF BELT PLACEMENT and when reinstalling you will pinch a small loop and go in from front top at an angle between the air pump and between idle pulley and tensioner. Long handle open/boxed in wrenches would help greatly; 17mm, 15mm, 14mm or do what I did use a boxed in over the open end to extend it. Its only difficult due to cramped work area. First time took me and son 3.5 hrs. Hope this helps!!
thanks. helped me diagnose that god awful idler pulley noise. Changed it and now she sounds quiet.
Thanks for the video! I have a 2013 sorento LX (2.4L GDI) with nearly 200k on it, so I think I'm going to replace both the tensioner and idler/accessory pulleys. I've already done the belt before and it's definitely easier to remove the passenger tire and splash guards and go from underneath. Also I think I have the spring tensioner as opposed to your hydraulic (gas?) tensioner. You might have the V6 model (EX trim) so I feel like it would help some people to mention that.
Nice video, sir very detailed and informative 👍 I'm having the same problem on my 2012 kia sorento.
good vid, a tad too long for a pulley replacement however. also for those that are watching this my little 2 cents is to always start belt route w/ crank pulley and other "grooved pulleys" and "slide" belt onto the "smooth" pulleys in this case it also happens to be the tensioner thus making it SUPER EASY to replace belt and then tighten belt tension/er. no need to pull and tug!
That's a great trick with the improvised megaphone. Made from a very long handled screwdriver and a cut off gallon plastic jug, for those who haven't watched the video. Reaches farther than my stethoscope, and doesn't go directly in my ears. Loud sounds can HURT your ears.
Thank you for the help my wife's kia is making the same noise you probably saved me 1000 bucks 😁
Thanks for this. I have an Australian 2010 XM with the 2.2 litre CRDi with approx 100K miles. It is making an intermittent rattle in the drive belt area at start up. Checked bearings but suspect it may be either alternator clutch or AC clutch.
Thank you, very clear and easy video, I'm going to do the same for my sorento 2013 V6 as I have issues with the tensioner. so, I'm going to check all the related items as you've shown in the video.
Thank you, I was having the same problem. Now my husband can fix it.
actually 35 years plus as a mechanic only ever saw a serpentine belt fail less then 5 times and always because a pulley froze and it was burned off . seen many a belt that looked hundred times worse then that. you only really need to replace a belt if its noisy. (this is for your own vehicles to save money ..when working on other peoples shit "always" advise a new belt simply because you are already there and if they don't want one you will get paid to go back later if it fails.
I have a 2011 Kia Sorento, and it makes the same noise, but not as long. It sounds just for a few seconds then stops. then the rest of the day, no noise. Unless the engine is off long enough to cool down. Then it sounds again.
There's something dragging on the ground now parked it appears to be a right Axil please help it just happened? If so how costly is this?
My 2005 Kia Sorento is making the EXACT noise. It just started yesterday. How do I know if it's that? I'm a woman and don't know anything about motors but I'm trying. I'm sorry but what pully is that to? I hope that question makes sense.
Very good tips thanks my wife has the same problem with her car same noise I'm very handy to on mechanic going to fix thanks for the tip.
I have the same issue with my 2013 Sorento. I have medical issues but wondered if this is something I can do.
I have 2013 kia forte it's the alternator pully deff..and always use blue factory oil filter or your lifters sound loud..Using aftermarket filter is a no no on Kia's
Awesome video. Thank you Sir!
FIRST SEARCH
FIRST VIDEO!!
ISNT TECHNOLOGY INCREDIBLE?!
NOW ALL I HAVE TO DO IS REMOVE &REPLACE!!
I just brought a 2005 kia sorento making the same noise. And the ppl I got it from didn't want to fix it. It was a used car lot. They said the jeep was in perfect condition. What was the pulleys you named?
Tequila Lane
Idler pulleys.
Has thr same issue however the KIa Machanic fixed it in the parking lot in 5 min without taking anything off the engine still don't know how he did it.
I also got a grinding noise on my Kia Soul and i dont know where it comes... i already switched 3 pulleys and it still does the damn sound...
All am left its the most expensive parts, the AC, alternator, crankshaft, etc...
Ataru2407
Water pump maybe. Highly failure prone.
07 sorento doing much the same. At least they're easily fixed.
I have a 2010 Kia Sportage that is making the same noise Lx AWD 2.7 litre engine.it occurs at idle,and noticeable at acceleration.Does anyone have a Kia/Tucson with same problem?I,m open to ideas and solutions.Thank you
KIA soul
My wife's car engine was totally replaced under recall and I thought the noise would go away, but the used all the bolt on parts from the original engine.
Sounds like the dealer went a little cheap. I can't figure that since the parts are not that expensive and you are already there labor wise. It's even easier when the engine is out.
great video scoured the web and this was only video about this friggin tensioner ..brother wife drove sorento for indeterminate amount of time with 1 quart of oil and throwing check engine light on .. codes for cam phasers came up and she only decided to stop driving it because the ac compressor makes a lot of clatter like a rod knock .. had ac compressor not been bad the engine would have died (from abuse) anyway cam phasers ok once 4 quarts oil added ..codes cleared ..50 miles on it since however want to drop oil pan to inspect the rod caps for bluing from lack of oil prior to flushing the system and cleaning the oil pan and pick up tube. also need to remove ac compressor to drop oil pan as well as get model info on replacement $$$ and all this is after this stupid drive belt is removed .. they bought this pos without consulting me and now its my problem. anyway spent all day trying to get drive belt removal info as stupid kia online only included info for 4 cyl and even then vague and unclear.
Thanks because my wife was wanting a brand new car if i couldnt get rid of the sound.
better check the oil that engine sounded like hell when ya started it
I broke the welded on tensioner relieve nut Had to lever up off the alternator to deal with the belt removal
Dave Measor
Makes for a bad day.
Thanks man
Thanks for you help
Can this rattle if bad enough
Most certainly. That’s even worse.
TOM2RN my wife's car i can see it moving when the car is running. When you turn the air on you can see the pulley moving and vibrating
It should not move right?
Most certainly. If the bearings are shot to heck you can get a lot of rattle.
@@TOM2RN yes it fixed my prob but now her car stalls Randomly only 104 k miles
Thanks going to try this also
Thanks Tom . Great video . I followed it and it worked out. I was also able to narrow down ( after removal ) which pulley had failed bearing . I made a quick video on how to identify it here:
ua-cam.com/video/V8ELj0wsbWg/v-deo.html
Kia sucks ,never buy Kias the worst , a neighbor of mine bought a 2014 kia sorento from a used dealer lot a year ago , wallah a problem appeared when accelerating there is a grinding noise