I am a retired Carpenter. I have done just what you showed. I refer to it as a hopper or a reverse Hopper joint. It's good to see you pass on this knowledge to others. Good job keep up the good work.
WTF…Where was this about 5 years ago when I replaced all my windows 🪟.. Not sure what I’m more impressed with, your knowledge of carpentry or how your able to explain/teacher us this so easily. You my friend are a amazing teacher. Bless you and your family… Thanks
Not quite retired at 59, but I’m an old school finishing carpenter and I’ve used many of the same tricks. However, I’m not ready to give up my air hose and Senco finish guns. Old and American made. You still can’t beat the quality. I’m very impressed with your videos. Thank you.
I'm a fan of air also. Here I only used the cordless because I had my hoses going a different direction and I only bring one 18 gauge pnuematic onsite. So I'll use the cordless when needed.
I’ve completed/replaced much of the finish carpentry in our home. But not the windows, they’re next, SOON. WOW! I am so glad I watched your video. Thank you for generously sharing.
I just want to say how good your videos are. I love how you talk to the professional or at least you talk to someone that halfway knows what they are doing and you are not talking to the complete novice.
I’m learning so much from you! I’m an old lady who loves diy projects. Everything I’ve learned from you makes so much sense and is easy to understand. I never would’ve thought to put up a nail to hold a long expanse of crown molding- duh! I’m not much for getting up and down a ladder ( especially when no one is around) so I really appreciated the tips to save trips up and down a ladder! Now I can tackle the crown molding by myself without having my daughter come help me. You’re a great teacher!
I’ve been working in finish/ trim carpentry for almost 4 years and ever since I’ve started you’re videos have really helped me out, even to this day I still watch em when I’m stuck with something
I’m professional but not so experienced as You do buddy,but I ‘m proud to have you at the side of my work life. Good bless you! Thank you for all work that you share with us. 🤗
This is the most simple,quick and right way of fixing those problems...i learned something new and its done right...i believe in do it right the first time and ill be using this technique from now on for sure...thank you so much for the right and easy way of fixing these problems...what a time and money saver...no more waisting molding trying to get the right fit...awesome video and thank you for sharing it with us...
Phenomenal. We “take the time” to fit each miter as it truly makes for a professional product. It’s so aggravating knowing how much time is wasted. I never thought about cutting the piece nested. With a set of various thickness Pre-Cut shims, this will save so much time. I truly appreciate the time you take to provide this content. One of the best finish UA-camrs out there. Very grateful.
Isn’t it crazy how after you see it done and then consider the struggle through the years trying to make compound cuts work...made me want to slap myself when I first learned it.
Having a stack of shims on hand is a great idea. I was thinking this was a awesome tip, but wondered where I’d find scrap that just happened to be the right thickness, but you basically just need a set of gauge blocks. 🤓👍
Every time I hear old school.... well, that's me. Framed and trimmed custom homes starting in the 80's. Retired now but still do some work. This young man, Spencer, he is really good. Excellent job young man. Thank you
“Nested Position” new term to me and I like it have done the roll cut before. I like using cut up refrigerator magnets as they stick to and are of uniform thickness. Pretty much get to reading 1 count, 2 count, 3 count on stack. Don’t forget your in it to make money every trim carpenter should be running 3 chop saws L,R, 90 slide. Keep it up
Thank you!! Had I watched this years ago, it would have prevented a lot of head banging. I've got a full house flooring & casing to do next month. This will save me lots of future frustrations. Thank you.
This is why carpentry is a great job. You never get bored and you learn new things every time. Plus work with cool tools. Great video and i really like your youtube channel.
Mind blowin!!! I worked for a builder who would have us plane the jambs down so the casing layer flat. This was done in $3 million dollar homes. All that wasted time. Thanks for sharing this man!
This a great tip. I remember when I first figured it out on a job with a few tough spots. Instead of keeping multiple shim strips at different thicknesses, I glued up a stack of thin shims in stair step. It always stayed in my pouches. When I came to a problem I would hold up a scrap of mitered casing, the measurement may change at the overhanging miter tip, and count the steps in the shim. Then I used the same stepped shim at the miter saw to hold the casing at the nested angle. Thanks for all your tips. They have stepped up my game.
I like the idea pf a single gauge, I'm wondering how you hold the stepped shims against the miter guide if for example the jamb side needed lifted, wouldn't the steps hold the trim from flush with the straight guide? It's possible I'm misunderstanding what the shape of the stepped shims actually looks like. In my mind it's somewhat like a stair stringer....
DIYer in a mid 50s custom ranch where every single door and window is wonky. This method has saved a ton of time and improved the quality as I replace all the window and door casing with stain grade hardwoods.
I have been doing this for years using a stack of pennies. I measure the height error in each corner using a stack of pennies and then use the same number of pennies to roll the miter. Height to the nearest penny thickness is more than sufficient for perfect joints.
This is why I love youtube. Havent had cable or watched regular tv in many many years, but as a 24 year construction tradesmen I still get to learn new tips and tricks of the trades. Today I own and operate a general contracting business, but am regularly (at least weekly) able to put on my tool belt and work in the field. Sure, I spend a lot of time meeting with clients, going through predesign, putting together bids, picking up materials...many many things to do as a construction trades business owner...but keeping tools in my hands is important.
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! I am finishing our basement, myself mostly. I hired out the drywall and when he was finished, I was startled to see how much the window frame projected proud of the drywall.......NOW WHAT? And there are 8 windows! Seemed very surprising since it's a walkout basement and the wall framing should be exactly as the main floor, so not sure why the frames are positioned differently unless those jambs were made deeper for some odd reason. So, I knew if I wanted the outside of the windows casings to meet the drywall that I would have to do a compound miter on the casings. But it would be mostly guess work and likely not have good results and would be very frustrating. I've been putting this phase off until I got up the nerve, but after watching your video I can now attack this job with knowledge of how I can make the miters look tight and the casings meet the drywall. I can sleep at night now!! : ) OH, and it was lucky that I bought the Colonial style casings that work with this corrective process (thumbs up!)
Started in finish carpentry in 95, First employer never allowed sanding of casing corners due to the fact we used hard woods (Oak, Cherry and Walnut......I truly miss those days now we get to breathe in MDF) and if you sanded only the corner it looked terrible with stain, so he had us carry different sized gauge blocks to do exactly what you showed in tutorial, awesome tool to have in arsenal of knowledge, now i can put a name to the technique "Rolling The Miter" Awesome Content Bro
@Inside Carpentry. Wow, mind blown. The most popular trick most people know is that caulk is their friend. Not mine if I'm using stain grade casing or trim. Thanks for sharing your trick. Also, it's nice to know that IT'S POSSIBLE for trades people to frame, hang doors, hang windows, and hang drywall that still lets the trim to hang properly (not proud or recessed). Yes, you are blessed to have a great crew who also truly care about the job they do. Stay safe and well.
I've been a carpenter for over 50 years. One trick that I learned for dealing with "proud" drywall is to hold your casing even with the window or door jam and score the drywall with a razor knife. This will give you a 1/4" overlap once the molding is installed. You then remove the surface of the drywall from the score over to the door jam. Sometimes I can just use a paint scraper but at times I have had to use my hammer to crush the drywall. You only remove the surface portion that is protruding past the edge of the jam. To align crown molding and trim on severely uneven wall I use tiny "trim shims" that I cut on my miter saw. I have used biscuits on trim molding. Remember, "it doesn't have to be right, it only has to look right".
20 years ago I worked with a guy who would have a dime, nickel, and quarter on the side of the chop saw and we would use them stacked in combination as needed to approximate the angle needed to accomplish the roll you show. Having a few pre-cut shims like yours would be good too. Thx-
This is so obvious. I have no idea why this isn't common knowledge. Thanks for your willingness to share. Its a great sign that you have truly mastered your craft.
Good tips ! I will say this though,Finehome Building magazine had an article several years ago,recommending all finish carpenters do a pre drywall inspection on jobs they are to trim. During that inspection,they note all framing defects,bring them to the attention of the GC and have them corrected prior to trim. Besides the issue you presented,among other concerns were out of plumb door jambs,misaligned studs,insufficient blocking where needed etc..
I’ve only viewed 2 of your videos so far-after the 1st I subscribed. I wish every tradesperson was as passionate and knowledgeable as you. If you were here in the Boston area, I’d hire you on our renovation in a heartbeat. Keep up the good work
Yeah I'm in Boston now and just like in Philly before, hard to find labor that cares. Looks like a common problem everywhere. These days people get paid the big bucks regardless of outcome. There is no incentive.
I would buy plastic signs at Home Depot, cut them into strips, and keep them in my tool bucket. If I needed to “roll the casing” on the miter saw, I would stack some plastic strips to the right thickness under the edge of the trim. Always worked great. Thanks for sharing. I’ve never seen anyone share this technique.
I’ve been doing this for years and I like using a shim I draw a line on the shim where it flushes out with the drywall or jamb I then cut the shim on the line and I have the right height for a perfect cut
Thanks so much for making these videos and sharing your knowledge. I can only imagine how much effort goes into making these over and above your every day work. Much respect and very much appreciated!
Please do secret #2. I work with a lot of trim that has lots of straight edges too. I'd like to know how to to make the proud edges work seamlessly. This is a great video. Such a simple fix.
I am doing windows this week and I just today thought about the next thing to do and this crossed my mind. If crown jigs work flat why not window casings. I done two windows and it worked great. And then I found this video and it is wonderful Technic thank you
Carry a rasp in your bag, on wide window casing you can ease the drywall back around the jamb. Your casing will lay flatter and you'll have no gap on the reveal to fill.
I just use the bent end of my glazing bar to scrape the drywall. It's fairly fast and precise on mud, tho it's not very good on drywall paper, but either way it's compact and a part of my everyday bag load. I guess if someone is consistently doing finish work, a rasp is a better idea; I'm often doing a million different things every day.
Brilliant! Been a handyman for 40 years and never thought of doing it that way. Where were you 40 years ago? That saves so much time and gives a superior result! Thank you.
Thank-you for this!! So many of the resources I've been able to find so far have been for jambs that are 1/4" proud or less. We inherited a house with some ridiculously proud door jambs that we've been trying to fix but we can't sand down the jambs to be flush with the drywall due to the orientation of the doors. The method you showed gives me hope that we'll be able to get some passable trim up!
Thinks for the tip dude! I have used a similar technique when installing baseboard and the walls are off, and the mitre goes past what the saw offers, I just never used that on Casings.
Great vid. When i was framer we always used a 1/2 block to set pre installed jambs to the correct drywall thickness. Although i am a firm believer in planing the jamb back if it is proud of the dry wall. With block plane an touching it up with some 120 paper. Gives young carpenters the chance to learn how to sharpen and set a plane. A rarity in todays carpenters.
i have been a contractor for many years and have had the "pleasure" of dealing with proud casings/drywall, either with shims or shaving drywall. Thanks to you I just learned a new and efficient technique that looks good. Thanks for a great video.
seriously watching this a day late. I discovered this little trick last night trying to cut offset panel molding against a raised panel. Great video and tip
Man you are one lucky dude to find a builder that doesn’t have crappy framers and sheet rockers. But I will definitely keep this trick in mind. Btw I will only wet set pocket doors from now on. Thank you sir!
using filler strips makes life easy and it looks great. it takes minutes to rip 1/8” or 1/4” strips and instant-gluing them to the back of the casing so everything sits flat. it’s making the pieces to fit the area, vs modifying the pieces, or having to do any special cutting. if the drywall or jamb is slightly off then this method isn’t necessary, but filling gaps is my preferred method , and it looks great because it all sits flat. cheers !
What a great video buddy. Keep them coming. Im a PM in construction and i know exactly what you are talking about. I wish all my guys were educated like this. Thanks
Awesome, I’ve been doing this stuff for 20 something years and have never thought or seen this done. Thanks for the tip. I’ll definitely use this one. Stay well
Great info. I don't do windows but I install a lot of replacement pre-hung doors with janky drywall in old rent houses. This will help a lot with a frequent problem. I've just been using a lot of "Fast and Final" to fill the corner gaps. : )
Interesting technique. I’ve planned down the proud window jamb flush with the drywall or if installing the jambs I’ve cut the jambs to match the same dimensions
Thanks man, great stuff! I usually order or build jambs a 1/4” wider than normal on our projects because it’s way easier to work with a proud jamb then proud drywall or whatever wall finish. Easy for caulk in and touch-up paint, but I hate seeing that painted caulk run up to stained trim. Going to use this today and see what happens! God bless you!
Wow bro, I've been doing finish for years and been around a bunch of skilled finish guys, and I've never seen anyone do that, or even mention it! Thanks man, I'll be using that sweet trick Monday morning !
Nice! For a pro, it makes a lot of sense. As an amateur, working on my own house, I take the time to plane off the proud, or shim out the shy. That way, I get a sweet fit. Not efficient, but it makes me happy. Glue is better than nails if you're going to plane, no worries about nicking the plane iron. I countersink my extension jamb screws so I don't hit them while planing to fit.
Years ago used to do the same with a radial arm saw. Use the tabletop for a simple jig. Fasten 2 straight edges to the tabletop at 45 degree angles from fence. Leave enough room at fence to precut pieces for length. Now you don't have to keep adjusting the saw for the next cut.
Great content man. I'm currently doing a build in a bus, where nothing is square, level, or plumb and I've had to be very creative in how I achieve quality results. It would be nice if math always worked, but without a degree in Non-Euclidean Geometry I have to work with "scribe" methods. This is a great tip, and I'll use it out there in the field.
Thank you so much for this video. I was afraid I’d be stuck with giant gaps between my door trim and the drywall because the jamb sits proud of the drywall. I rolled the miter after watching this video today and it turned out awesome! Such a simple concept and easy to do.
That must be nice to follow such a good framing crew. I’ve done several jobs here in Austin where almost every single door was out of wack. Many many headaches. Thanks for this advice! Priceless 🙏🏼
I am a retired Carpenter. I have done just what you showed. I refer to it as a hopper or a reverse Hopper joint. It's good to see you pass on this knowledge to others. Good job keep up the good work.
WTF…Where was this about 5 years ago when I replaced all my windows 🪟.. Not sure what I’m more impressed with, your knowledge of carpentry or how your able to explain/teacher us this so easily. You my friend are a amazing teacher. Bless you and your family… Thanks
Thanks!
Nobody cares scram weirdo
Yeah ! That !!!! What B. Cook said .
Did mine terribly with a buddy yesterday and found this video today.
I love the way you teach! you are the best
That's actually a superb trick with rolling the miter this is definitely a trick that'll make me smile over and over again thank you
Not quite retired at 59, but I’m an old school finishing carpenter and I’ve used many of the same tricks. However, I’m not ready to give up my air hose and Senco finish guns. Old and American made. You still can’t beat the quality.
I’m very impressed with your videos. Thank you.
I'm a fan of air also. Here I only used the cordless because I had my hoses going a different direction and I only bring one 18 gauge pnuematic onsite. So I'll use the cordless when needed.
I’ve completed/replaced much of the finish carpentry in our home. But not the windows, they’re next, SOON. WOW! I am so glad I watched your video. Thank you for generously sharing.
I am a 35 year carpenter veteran. This is so simple and effective method. I really learned something today thank you thank you. Brilliant.
I just want to say how good your videos are. I love how you talk to the professional or at least you talk to someone that halfway knows what they are doing and you are not talking to the complete novice.
I’m learning so much from you! I’m an old lady who loves diy projects. Everything I’ve learned from you makes so much sense and is easy to understand. I never would’ve thought to put up a nail to hold a long expanse of crown molding- duh! I’m not much for getting up and down a ladder ( especially when no one is around) so I really appreciated the tips to save trips up and down a ladder! Now I can tackle the crown molding by myself without having my daughter come help me. You’re a great teacher!
I’ve been working in finish/ trim carpentry for almost 4 years and ever since I’ve started you’re videos have really helped me out, even to this day I still watch em when I’m stuck with something
Great to hear!
Been doing trim and casings for 35 years and learned something. Goes to show you can teach and old dog new tricks!
I’m professional but not so experienced as You do buddy,but I ‘m proud to have you at the side of my work life. Good bless you! Thank you for all work that you share with us. 🤗
This is the most simple,quick and right way of fixing those problems...i learned something new and its done right...i believe in do it right the first time and ill be using this technique from now on for sure...thank you so much for the right and easy way of fixing these problems...what a time and money saver...no more waisting molding trying to get the right fit...awesome video and thank you for sharing it with us...
Phenomenal. We “take the time” to fit each miter as it truly makes for a professional product. It’s so aggravating knowing how much time is wasted. I never thought about cutting the piece nested. With a set of various thickness Pre-Cut shims, this will save so much time. I truly appreciate the time you take to provide this content. One of the best finish UA-camrs out there. Very grateful.
Isn’t it crazy how after you see it done and then consider the struggle through the years trying to make compound cuts work...made me want to slap myself when I first learned it.
I wanted to echo what John Ploetz said. Spent years putting up casing and never thought to do this. Thanks for educating this old timer.
toolwarrior You’re welcome. It’s sad that there isn’t more sharing of trade knowledge.
This is actually genius, thanks for sharing
Having a stack of shims on hand is a great idea. I was thinking this was a awesome tip, but wondered where I’d find scrap that just happened to be the right thickness, but you basically just need a set of gauge blocks. 🤓👍
Every time I hear old school.... well, that's me. Framed and trimmed custom homes starting in the 80's. Retired now but still do some work. This young man, Spencer, he is really good.
Excellent job young man.
Thank you
“Nested Position” new term to me and I like it have done the roll cut before. I like using cut up refrigerator magnets as they stick to and are of uniform thickness. Pretty much get to reading 1 count, 2 count, 3 count on stack. Don’t forget your in it to make money every trim carpenter should be running 3 chop saws L,R, 90 slide. Keep it up
Thank you!! Had I watched this years ago, it would have prevented a lot of head banging. I've got a full house flooring & casing to do next month. This will save me lots of future frustrations. Thank you.
This is why carpentry is a great job. You never get bored and you learn new things every time. Plus work with cool tools.
Great video and i really like your youtube channel.
Carpenters are required to use problem solving on a daily basis, even to complete the 'simplest' jobs...It's very stimulating in that respect...
Framers are generally overworked and underpaid.
Mind blowin!!! I worked for a builder who would have us plane the jambs down so the casing layer flat. This was done in $3 million dollar homes. All that wasted time.
Thanks for sharing this man!
Simple, straight forward, and affective; my favorite type of UA-cam videos. Great tips!
This a great tip. I remember when I first figured it out on a job with a few tough spots. Instead of keeping multiple shim strips at different thicknesses, I glued up a stack of thin shims in stair step. It always stayed in my pouches. When I came to a problem I would hold up a scrap of mitered casing, the measurement may change at the overhanging miter tip, and count the steps in the shim. Then I used the same stepped shim at the miter saw to hold the casing at the nested angle. Thanks for all your tips. They have stepped up my game.
I like the idea pf a single gauge, I'm wondering how you hold the stepped shims against the miter guide if for example the jamb side needed lifted, wouldn't the steps hold the trim from flush with the straight guide? It's possible I'm misunderstanding what the shape of the stepped shims actually looks like. In my mind it's somewhat like a stair stringer....
Check out our UA-cam; texascarpenter for phenomenal tricks on pre-building casing units even when there are drywall issues 👍🏼
DIYer in a mid 50s custom ranch where every single door and window is wonky. This method has saved a ton of time and improved the quality as I replace all the window and door casing with stain grade hardwoods.
I have been doing this for years using a stack of pennies. I measure the height error in each corner using a stack of pennies and then use the same number of pennies to roll the miter. Height to the nearest penny thickness is more than sufficient for perfect joints.
This is why I love youtube. Havent had cable or watched regular tv in many many years, but as a 24 year construction tradesmen I still get to learn new tips and tricks of the trades. Today I own and operate a general contracting business, but am regularly (at least weekly) able to put on my tool belt and work in the field. Sure, I spend a lot of time meeting with clients, going through predesign, putting together bids, picking up materials...many many things to do as a construction trades business owner...but keeping tools in my hands is important.
Check out our UA-cam; texascarpenter for phenomenal tricks on pre-building casing units even when there are drywall issues 👍🏼
Thanks for the awesome content! I also love how you talk slow enough for me to understand and comprehend what your saying.
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! I am finishing our basement, myself mostly. I hired out the drywall and when he was finished, I was startled to see how much the window frame projected proud of the drywall.......NOW WHAT? And there are 8 windows! Seemed very surprising since it's a walkout basement and the wall framing should be exactly as the main floor, so not sure why the frames are positioned differently unless those jambs were made deeper for some odd reason. So, I knew if I wanted the outside of the windows casings to meet the drywall that I would have to do a compound miter on the casings. But it would be mostly guess work and likely not have good results and would be very frustrating. I've been putting this phase off until I got up the nerve, but after watching your video I can now attack this job with knowledge of how I can make the miters look tight and the casings meet the drywall. I can sleep at night now!! : ) OH, and it was lucky that I bought the Colonial style casings that work with this corrective process (thumbs up!)
Started in finish carpentry in 95, First employer never allowed sanding of casing corners due to the fact we used hard woods (Oak, Cherry and Walnut......I truly miss those days now we get to breathe in MDF) and if you sanded only the corner it looked terrible with stain, so he had us carry different sized gauge blocks to do exactly what you showed in tutorial, awesome tool to have in arsenal of knowledge, now i can put a name to the technique "Rolling The Miter" Awesome Content Bro
@Inside Carpentry. Wow, mind blown. The most popular trick most people know is that caulk is their friend. Not mine if I'm using stain grade casing or trim. Thanks for sharing your trick.
Also, it's nice to know that IT'S POSSIBLE for trades people to frame, hang doors, hang windows, and hang drywall that still lets the trim to hang properly (not proud or recessed). Yes, you are blessed to have a great crew who also truly care about the job they do.
Stay safe and well.
Genius
Ive been rubbing down miters on the back side for years, it works but very time consuming.
Thank you
Back to the practical, old school, simple solutions, which seems to be rare these days. Very pro.
I've been a carpenter for over 50 years. One trick that I learned for dealing with "proud" drywall is to hold your casing even with the window or door jam and score the drywall with a razor knife. This will give you a 1/4" overlap once the molding is installed. You then remove the surface of the drywall from the score over to the door jam. Sometimes I can just use a paint scraper but at times I have had to use my hammer to crush the drywall. You only remove the surface portion that is protruding past the edge of the jam.
To align crown molding and trim on severely uneven wall I use tiny "trim shims" that I cut on my miter saw.
I have used biscuits on trim molding. Remember, "it doesn't have to be right, it only has to look right".
All good advice. I do the same thing with scoring the drywall. 👍
Check out our UA-cam; texascarpenter for phenomenal tricks on pre-building casing units even when there are drywall issues 👍🏼
Wow ! brilliant ... 8:51 cool clamp there ...
20 years ago I worked with a guy who would have a dime, nickel, and quarter on the side of the chop saw and we would use them stacked in combination as needed to approximate the angle needed to accomplish the roll you show. Having a few pre-cut shims like yours would be good too. Thx-
This how I was taught by my boss back in 1988. It's a good simple quick technique. Nice job. I enjoy your videos and your craftmanship.
This is so obvious. I have no idea why this isn't common knowledge. Thanks for your willingness to share. Its a great sign that you have truly mastered your craft.
Good tips ! I will say this though,Finehome Building magazine had an article several years ago,recommending all finish carpenters do a pre drywall inspection on jobs they are to trim. During that inspection,they note all framing defects,bring them to the attention of the GC and have them corrected prior to trim. Besides the issue you presented,among other concerns were out of plumb door jambs,misaligned studs,insufficient blocking where needed etc..
I’ve only viewed 2 of your videos so far-after the 1st I subscribed. I wish every tradesperson was as passionate and knowledgeable as you. If you were here in the Boston area, I’d hire you on our renovation in a heartbeat. Keep up the good work
Yeah I'm in Boston now and just like in Philly before, hard to find labor that cares. Looks like a common problem everywhere. These days people get paid the big bucks regardless of outcome. There is no incentive.
starting a remodel of my house and you just saved me so much time going into it. thanks
I would buy plastic signs at Home Depot, cut them into strips, and keep them in my tool bucket. If I needed to “roll the casing” on the miter saw, I would stack some plastic strips to the right thickness under the edge of the trim. Always worked great. Thanks for sharing. I’ve never seen anyone share this technique.
By far the best way of handling this I've found. Thanks for the great tips.
Effin brilliant yet such a simple concept. I've been trying to find a more efficient way to deal with proud jambs for years
I’ve been doing this for years and I like using a shim I draw a line on the shim where it flushes out with the drywall or jamb I then cut the shim on the line and I have the right height for a perfect cut
you hit the nail on the head. It takes all sub contractors to take quality in their work to not make other sub's have issues doing their job.
Such a good tip, I had no idea. I always plane the jamb down if proud or scrape the crap out of the drywall if its too thick in that spot
Thanks so much for making these videos and sharing your knowledge. I can only imagine how much effort goes into making these over and above your every day work. Much respect and very much appreciated!
Please do secret #2. I work with a lot of trim that has lots of straight edges too. I'd like to know how to to make the proud edges work seamlessly. This is a great video. Such a simple fix.
He puts a filler shim up the wall to build casing out 3/8". May crowd the sill area though.
I am doing windows this week and I just today thought about the next thing to do and this crossed my mind. If crown jigs work flat why not window casings. I done two windows and it worked great. And then I found this video and it is wonderful Technic thank you
Carry a rasp in your bag, on wide window casing you can ease the drywall back around the jamb. Your casing will lay flatter and you'll have no gap on the reveal to fill.
I just use the bent end of my glazing bar to scrape the drywall. It's fairly fast and precise on mud, tho it's not very good on drywall paper, but either way it's compact and a part of my everyday bag load. I guess if someone is consistently doing finish work, a rasp is a better idea; I'm often doing a million different things every day.
Really useful tip! So many houses are poorly framed. This really helps to deal with those issues.
Brilliant! Been a handyman for 40 years and never thought of doing it that way. Where were you 40 years ago? That saves so much time and gives a superior result! Thank you.
Thank-you for this!! So many of the resources I've been able to find so far have been for jambs that are 1/4" proud or less. We inherited a house with some ridiculously proud door jambs that we've been trying to fix but we can't sand down the jambs to be flush with the drywall due to the orientation of the doors. The method you showed gives me hope that we'll be able to get some passable trim up!
This guy is a natural teacher! Thanks brother
Thinks for the tip dude! I have used a similar technique when installing baseboard and the walls are off, and the mitre goes past what the saw offers, I just never used that on Casings.
Like so many other comments on here, ive come across this problem hundreds of times but ive never seen your method - excellent stuff :-)
Ive been doing carpentry and molding for over 30 years and just learned something new!!! Thank you!!!
@MichaelKingsfordGray I get right on that
This is great. Windows are easy but setting doors plumb in old walls is pretty tricky. I’ll be using this trick for sure. Thanks a lot
Great vid. When i was framer we always used a 1/2 block to set pre installed jambs to the correct drywall thickness. Although i am a firm believer in planing the jamb back if it is proud of the dry wall. With block plane an touching it up with some 120 paper. Gives young carpenters the chance to learn how to sharpen and set a plane. A rarity in todays carpenters.
This might be one of the smartest tricks I’ve ever learned! Thank you very much good sir!
Great job explaining how to resolve the problem. Keep up the good work
i have been a contractor for many years and have had the "pleasure" of dealing with proud casings/drywall, either with shims or shaving drywall. Thanks to you I just learned a new and efficient technique that looks good. Thanks for a great video.
So, you echo the situation on the saw to get a duplication of the angle caused at the jamb. Nice!
seriously watching this a day late. I discovered this little trick last night trying to cut offset panel molding against a raised panel. Great video and tip
I am a newbie and have four new porch windows to trim out, all a little wonkie, so this is really great.
Man you are one lucky dude to find a builder that doesn’t have crappy framers and sheet rockers. But I will definitely keep this trick in mind. Btw I will only wet set pocket doors from now on. Thank you sir!
using filler strips makes life easy and it looks great.
it takes minutes to rip 1/8” or 1/4” strips and instant-gluing them to the back of the casing so everything sits flat.
it’s making the pieces to fit the area, vs modifying the pieces, or having to do any special cutting. if the drywall or jamb is slightly off then this method isn’t necessary, but filling gaps is my preferred method , and it looks great because it all sits flat.
cheers !
The first time I cases windows this is what I was taught to do. Very simple, and makes the product look good.
Outstanding video! Both in the technique you’re teaching and how you’re teaching/explaining
Such a young guy to be so experienced. Great info, thx.
Thanks for your help because I have a problem with doors trim and I am Always tried to do my best
What a great video buddy.
Keep them coming.
Im a PM in construction and i know exactly what you are talking about.
I wish all my guys were educated like this.
Thanks
Awesome, I’ve been doing this stuff for 20 something years and have never thought or seen this done. Thanks for the tip. I’ll definitely use this one. Stay well
Great info. I don't do windows but I install a lot of replacement pre-hung doors with janky drywall in old rent houses. This will help a lot with a frequent problem. I've just been using a lot of "Fast and Final" to fill the corner gaps. : )
Interesting technique. I’ve planned down the proud window jamb flush with the drywall or if installing the jambs I’ve cut the jambs to match the same dimensions
That's a good way too but need a mini flush cut circular saw if that's a thing. These oscillating tools are too slow for that
Dude
You’re fricking awesome I’m about to install casings on a garage window. Wow never knew this. You are the man!!!
Thank you for sharing this information. I’m always so thankful for people who share knowledge like this.
This is amazing! How did 382 people give this a thumbs down? I guess you just cannot please everyone.
They cut their trim within a half inch
Thanks man, great stuff! I usually order or build jambs a 1/4” wider than normal on our projects because it’s way easier to work with a proud jamb then proud drywall or whatever wall finish. Easy for caulk in and touch-up paint, but I hate seeing that painted caulk run up to stained trim. Going to use this today and see what happens! God bless you!
Check out our UA-cam; texascarpenter for phenomenal tricks on pre-building casing units even when there are drywall issues 👍🏼
WOW. Subscribed. Just a weekend DIY guy. This is why we pay professionals. They know these tricks.
Thank you for taking a seemingly complicated issue and providing a simple solution. You are an excellent teacher 👏
I like that clamp. Haven’t seen that one before
Hey, thanks again for Not boring the audience with a long intro and outro to all your other content like some other You Tubers!
Retro-Tech you bet. I try and keep it as lean as I can while still getting the point across adequately.
Very clever and simple like all the best ideas. Thanks for sharing this hard one skill with us. Mike
This guy is the best production finish carpenter on you tube
AND THAT'S A FACT💪💪🇺🇸🇺🇸
Wow bro, I've been doing finish for years and been around a bunch of skilled finish guys, and I've never seen anyone do that, or even mention it! Thanks man, I'll be using that sweet trick Monday morning !
Outstanding tip young man that I will no doubt use.
Nice! For a pro, it makes a lot of sense. As an amateur, working on my own house, I take the time to plane off the proud, or shim out the shy. That way, I get a sweet fit. Not efficient, but it makes me happy. Glue is better than nails if you're going to plane, no worries about nicking the plane iron. I countersink my extension jamb screws so I don't hit them while planing to fit.
Dealing with a door that's recessed now. I think I'm going to need a jamb extension. Anyway, once again thanks for letting us look over your shoulder.
Great tutorial I live in American Samoa few off these come my way, thanks for helping
Nice to see the window you are actually building for.
Mate, I’ve been struggling with this forever. I think you just doubled if not trippled the speed I can do casing now! Cheers!
Wow nice tip. I am in the process of doing total renovation of a few rooms and this video popped up. Thank you so much.
Awesome trick! Somebody needs to write a carpentry book of just tips/tricks like this.
Awesome video. This is the exact same technique we use when fitting our trim and it works to perfection!
This guys a badass! You look pretty young too man. Very skilled, I’ll be watching more of your videos for sure.
Years ago used to do the same with a radial arm saw. Use the tabletop for a simple jig. Fasten 2 straight edges to the tabletop at 45 degree angles from fence. Leave enough room at fence to precut pieces for length. Now you don't have to keep adjusting the saw for the next cut.
Great content man.
I'm currently doing a build in a bus, where nothing is square, level, or plumb and I've had to be very creative in how I achieve quality results. It would be nice if math always worked, but without a degree in Non-Euclidean Geometry I have to work with "scribe" methods.
This is a great tip, and I'll use it out there in the field.
Nice one Spence I will definitely add into my technique
Thank you so much for this video. I was afraid I’d be stuck with giant gaps between my door trim and the drywall because the jamb sits proud of the drywall. I rolled the miter after watching this video today and it turned out awesome! Such a simple concept and easy to do.
This might be the most genius thing I've ever heard of. Awesome!!
BRILLIANT! Great video. Thank you for the tips. I always enjoy learning the tricks of the trades.
That must be nice to follow such a good framing crew. I’ve done several jobs here in Austin where almost every single door was out of wack. Many many headaches. Thanks for this advice! Priceless 🙏🏼
Check out our UA-cam; texascarpenter for phenomenal tricks on pre-building casing units even when there are drywall issues 👍🏼