Just wanted to say thanks. All your videos helped me do something I never thought I would be able to accomplish. I just finished a room in my basement, just need to prime and paint. Your videos helped me every step of the way. I would post pictures of what your tutorials do for someone with no construction background but we can’t do that on UA-cam. Thank you sir.
Ben, I have ben watching you since early skateboarding channel days and now I'm watching as i renovate my house. My friend, you have a wealth of interesting and useful tips and I do favor your channel over others. Thanks buddy.
Hey great video! You did an awesome job. My doors are so messed up Haha. House was built 1913. Side note. As an electrician, the faceplate on the light switch suddenly caught my eye. Tell your electrician that he doesn't have to tighten those 4 screws! It warps the crap out of the plates. The switches are already secure to the gangbox and the plate is just for decorative purposes and to cover the sides. I barely tighten those and I always leave the scew slits in the same direction haha. It probably looks just as bad to me as the double reveal on a long tapered strip looks to you 🤣
Ben..Thank You, Thank You.. I did the tapered cut just like you did after I replaced 5 indoor doors..I had never done it before & I was was wondering if a professional like you did such a thing!! So I guess I am pro now that I have mastered the tapered cut insert for door jam trim.. Keep up the good work Ben & see you in your next video!!
THANK YOU! I tried it and it worked great. Your videos are so helpful because they show how to solve probelms--others ignore the realities of remodeling and fixing old probelms.
I’ve applied so many of your techniques for rebuilding my first home. By far my favorite channel. You’ve been a life saver for some of these tricky jobs I’ve run into along the way. Much appreciated
Mr Vancouver Sometimes you and Jeff don’t realize the good you’re doing helping the rest of us out here with these videos your doing… …I’ve got a situation going on right now just like the one you did with the door and putting that stripping in The door jam ’m dealing with a window, you helped me cure the problem..And you cut that long skinny and strip and you made it look so easy I have attempted to do that in the past I zigzag all over the place can’t seem to get a straight enough….thanks so much :)
I learned a few years ago that sanding before priming, after priming and after 1st coat of paint makes a big improvement in the final finish. Don’t be afraid to lightly sand between coats. Sponge sanding pads at 220 grit are great.
Woke up to a VC notification. Ran for my coffee and here we go. This was helpful cause I have a feeling I may run into this since we are making our own door jambs. I learn so much from you. Love starting my mornings this way. We thank and appreciate you . . . always.
Tip for when the realtor hasn't left a nice pad of paper for you -- I slap a few layers of painters tape or masking tape on the side of my tape measure. Layer it on -- first left-to-right, then top-to-bottom -- this way you can peel off the top layer easily when you want to discard it, and you're left with a clean "pad" to scribble measurements on! Your tape measure follows you from work piece to the saw, so your list of measurements might as well! Cheers!
For a minute I thought you were going to say. You took painters tape and put it over the gap and painted over it. I was gunna say that’s some evil shit 😂
Tip: angle cut on a table saw. Mark your angle line on the wood that you are going to cut. Take another board and lay it on top of the line or offset from the line, your choice. Then screw the two boards together. Now you have one board parallel to the blade and fence and the other board on top or bottom your choice screwed to the parallel board at the angel. Set your fence and rip.
I could have used that advice on the gap to the left of my bathroom vanity. I ended up buying one of those foam-filled plastic baseboards and cut it with a knife.
Get yourself some good carpet tape, its gotta be the right kind though, shurtape is the best. It's super strong and will not wiggle I use this to do the same thing and then you dont have screw holes and it is super quick and sticky enough it can be peeled off and still work on the next piece. The very best for router guides. Stick em together and flush trim. So versatile
What's stain grade trim? I'm a DIY beginner and have only honed drywall + skimming, but, when it comes to carpentry I want to run the other way. But I'm still taking the dive and feel motivated to do my own trim. But still have a lot to learn . . .
@@Cindy25Cox Stain grade trim is trim that you stain rather than paint a solid color, i.e., a natural wood finish rather than painted. You can't caulk when you're assembling stained trim, so it's a lot less forgiving.
@@Cindy25Cox Suitable for staining. Solid wood no blemishes (or joints). Much more expensive. On my current project, previous owner applied a “unique”-colored stain to stain grade Kelleher (pre-pandemic $7.00/foot). We wound up painting it. (Oh the pain, but right decision.).
I’m doing a job now and the walls are an inch from top to bottom out. I was just telling my co-worker on Friday how we’re going to have to rip tapered extensions on Tuesday….and this video comes up on the top of my feed! Nice work man! Love the channel
I have a sliding block wedge strip gig. Tilt saw to 5 degrees and rip a block. Flip it and add a stop to the trailing edge. Now you can make 10 degree bevel strips. These can be tucked into small tapered gaps until they fit. Then you use an extended snap point knife to trim them flush. They’ll fit perfectly without the need for caulk. Putty and paint make it what it ain’t! It might even work for stain grade!
Glad to know I did the right thing when I encountered this situation with my new front door. Only I didn't use caulk. I glued the strip in using wood glue as flush as possible and then used spackle to make it flush with the edge of the trim. Although it looks like one piece, it does leave a big shadow from the overhead light above the door.
I appreciate all your tips and tricks. I am remodeling our home...for us at this point so I want it to look beautiful; you are helping me make that happen! Thanks from California.
Think did a good job too. Not an easy thing to “fix” and I’ve seen ppl use caulk, wood fillers, bondo, combinations, etc….to get it to “look” better than before. Liked the comment ya said about the painter and just sanding a bit to “make it look better”….. That’s a thing some ppl don’t realize, imo, that each “Trade” before and after ALL DEPENDS on each other and NEEDS each other for things to work out. It’s always better to be on same page then not; and fighting with material “fixing” crap that someone else coulda a spent a few extra seconds or mins on (and yes know time is money) for the finished material and end result to look amazing. Nice series this has been, really been enjoying watching it👍🏻✌🏻
Mertric man here haha loved that you put that in there 💪😜🤙 im like yep speaks gibberish American measurement... ok top, middle, bottom got it haha im just watching this for entertainment your tips and tricks have really helped me over the last few years renovating my house. Im heaps better at plastering now 💪😜🤙
I've done quite a few of these, but instead of making a wedge shaped piece, I just loosened the bottom of the casing and made a 7/16th jam extension so it looks the same all the way down. You wouldn't see the gap behind the casing because its so close to the corner and it would be caulked anyway. Turned out alright I guess.
Just found you on UA-cam. I love how you explain why you do things a certain way and also briefly name a few other ways to accomplish the same goal. Keep up the good work!
Try 20 minute drywall mud mixed to the consistency of a thick paste. Sets faster than wood filler and a lot cheaper. It is very durable , barely shrinks can be carved very easily when it first sets up. Otherwise you could have stuck with a even extension jamb and hid the tapered gap behind the casing to the wall.
Thank you, I had a LOT of door jamb to wall issues in my basement finish and I used the 20 minute mud just like you. That's been three years ago and no cracks or peeling. I'm just not good with wood small trim fillers. just never cuts right and most of time I break them getting them nailed to the wall/jamb. And just like the video I was going for "Good Enough". I do use the "Stinky primer/ Paint" (can't never remember the name of it) but it put out fumes and it does cover and dries FAST. The people that live in the basement {relatives) don't pay any rent so they don't complain.
As a painter I love and hate this video. I love that you describe that all water based materials shrink, use a putty knife and recommend two coats for what you did here. As a painter: caulking sucks to sand as does trim paint. You can use a 1/4 sheet power sander on caulking before trim paint. I liked the tips in your video though, if I was working in a rental property I'd assume the same quality standards of what you did here
I used wood bondo to fix out of plumb casing gap (and wall) on a new door at my mom's 70 year old house. Mix it, fill it as best I could, and sand it after it hardens. Then all ready to paint within an hour. It looked great after painting. No gap and beautifully smooth. And stayed that way, on a heavily used bathroom door.
Thank you. I like this method much more than the cutting away of the drywall method. I need to do this with two doorways. We installed new doors with the frames. The drywall in part of the upper hallway is maybe 1/4” or more thicker than what I normally see used.
Just the video I needed to finish some work In The house. I was thinking this but just wasn't sure. Thank you sir for your great work and enjoyable personality.
Since your not aiming for perfection, best thing to do is to use your hammer to mash the drywall behind where the trim will be. Then just apply the trim and touch up the drywall with joint compound if necessary.
That's what I do. I hold up a piece of trim as a guide to cut the paper where the trim meets the drywall. Then hammer the drywall, leaving level portions that support the trim when nailed. This method makes a wicked mess, so I carry a smallish canvas drop cloth.. In my opinion, the end result looks far better than crooked lines in the door / window casement. :)
For stain grade or if I want it to be less obvious I build a custom door jamb tapered to fit the opening. With that wider style stop trim most people won’t even see it. Another option if the door is already installed is I remove the stop trim, if possible, and make a custom wide stop trim that tapers to fit the opening then set the door trim over the stop to cover the crack between the stop and jamb making the reveal on the new stop trim.
I just installed two sets of double doors today and I definitely have this problem on one of the sets. A crowned stud appears to be the problem. Will definitely give this a try.
Painter friend advised me to use Dynaflex 230 over Alex Plus for a large trim carpentry project because I live in an area with large temperature and humidity swings throughout the year, he mentioned it holds up much better through the seasonal expansion & contraction. Two years in and very little cracking, give it a try next time if you can get the product in your area.
I've got this problem at the bottom of the stairs that go down to my and my neighbor's basements. The drywall had pulled away from the wall after decades of the door slamming. Started with a wood strip that's a little smaller than the casing, and that holds the screws I used to pull the drywall in as far as it would go. Over that, I'm going to glue on a resin impression I made of the casing I used on the rest of the frame, in order to hide the screws. There will still be a small gap, so I'll caulk that and when the caulk shrinks, I'll level it with joint filler and sand it.
I've ran into this multiple times. And that's how I do it also. Just glad that it's the way other people do it. Always wondered if I was doing it right. Thanks for letting me know it is the right way
I need to do that to all my window casings. I installed new windows all around my house and now there is about 3/8 gap all around between the window and the casing because the new windows were not as deep. I don’t want to replace the casing so this is a good option. Thank you.
Hey @Vancouver Carpenter, amazing !!!!! I just had that same issue at my front door. The gap wasn't as severe as you've got in that doorway, I was able to caulk mine - just last night. Get'er done and you can go skateboard !!!!
If you have to do this stain grade, try the same technique but glue and clamp it. You'd be surprised, sometimes it doesn't look half bad! The other option would be to tack in a jamb extension and scribe it to the wall. Or rehang the door... Great video!
With this being an older home their could be various reasons for the gap as you mentioned but if it was new construction I would bet the door was not properly installed and if that is the case I would rather take out the door an re-install it the correct way. This method will work good on older homes or homes where perfection isn't necessary such as a rental in your case.
Thanks! I was just wondering about how to fix this since I have a few issues similar to this in some window trim. I have begun using the adhesive spacers that go under furniture legs to attach to the edge of a board in order to space it off my table saw fence to get an angled cut. Works pretty ok.
Lol, yep Australian chippy here, so yep...I've kind of got a handle on what your Plus / Minus Imperial lingo is now. Nice "Safety Squint and respirator use of the T shirt lol. Nice vid. Cheers.
I had to deal with a similar situation a month ago, except it was stain grade oak. I cut my long wedge on the table saw about a half to nothing then cleaned it up with a block plane. Idk what I would have done without the block plane, the table saw burned through it pretty bad but I was able to clean it up nicely with the plane. Might even be easier on stain grade tbh since you don't have to worry about caulk cracking down the road. A hairline crack between pieces of oak fits in much better than a hairline crack on a white painted surface
I just installed a set of double doors that are 135 years old, into a new home. There was 1.5 inches of twist, I had to cut tapered jamb extensions for both sides of the door.
Another fun way to make that tapered rip... Using a table saw, and not freehand.. Tape 2 boards together, put a spacer between the boards on 1 end the size of the larger end of the gap. Then cut as normal against your fence.. Option B,, make your fence longer and just put the spacer on the board you are cutting.. Works well, but always remember to pay attention to what the saw is doing and keep your digits away from that blade.
What I do is grab the edge of the jamb with fingertips, palm against casing and squeeze together. More often than not, there’s enough movement to close the gap and fire some finish nails into casing and jamb, the way it should’ve been done in the first place to avoid this situation. Quick, easy and effective 👍🏻
Nice job. But I would have used a foam backer rod and stuff it in and leave about 1/8" - 1/16" depth. Fill the rest with caulk or elastomeric joint compound
Thx for the approach. I am a root cause kind of person and would want to prevent this situation from ever occurring or fix the source. What is the root cause of this? Shoddy walls not squared and/or door hanging? All the best!!
It’s shoddy installation on the door and it’s showing us red flags that there is trouble with the in inconsistent filler measurements. The door needed to be set better initially. GOOD ENOUGH IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH! If you hear a tradesperson say that…..they suck and have no pride or skill!!!!!!
you taught me to tape. I learned alot of what I know from you in regards to mudding and taping. in saying that I'll say this I don't recommend flushing your casing with your jamb.( not sure if that's what you did but it was hard to tell) gives it a nicer profile with an 1/8 inch or 3/16 reveal. also if your gaps are big I would cut out the drywall behind the casing where the gaps are. another thing I've done in the past replace the jamb. I know it depends on the customer and their needs and wants but I personally hate seeing big caulk lines. been a finish carpenter for 9 years now. love your videos man, got my red seal in Edmonton but recently moved back home in Ontario. keep it up man!
Glad you made this video. Had to do this on a door frame in our condo and will likely have to do it the others when I rehang and re-trim the others. Will be much easier next time thanks to you! When you were explaining the reasons that could cause it, i just thought "all of the above".
Good method I've done this for a while. Another good productbI like using a product called Rock Hard Putty basically its bondo for houses. I mask off the area mix it thick so it doesnt run or sag and after its wiped level with a spackle knife it stayed pretty good. Needs very little sanding and once painted it looks like wood
We discovered that someone had done this to a door in our fixer upper we renovated. While changing the door trim in our interior I discovered that this was done. When I took the old trim off I discovered that the door frame was proud on one side and shallow on the other side. I simply took the door frame out and reinstated it correctly! Problem solved! I couldn't believe all the work someone did in the past to make it look good! Lol! Anyways I only mentioned this because I'm wondering if you don't have the same issue here???
Would you recommend a very light spritz of water on the knife or finger. Its the way i have done it a lot of times and for me it makes it easier to work. Just found you today and enjoying your videos.
perfect, this is exactly what I need to do, thanks for the instruction! curious if you've tried using spackle instead of putty on the gaps? I've had good luck with getting spackle to fill larger gaps and it tends to sand easy between coats of paint as well
Thank you for this advice. I have a door which the locksmith kicked to open. Major split on inner jamb on old oregon pine painted door. Just been staring at.
Backing rod / caulk and a little finesse . Done and done . I'll end up floating a skim coat over the filler peice anyway to avoid a seam flash . Imma painter so the prep cant be half assed .
Thank you for this. The doors and walls in my house are all sorts of wonky. I have to install 3 doors (two are replacements). This should come in handy. I discovered that some of my walls are thicker than I realized so there will be gaps. If you're going to be caulking it, you could put a nail or screw on the face and use those to grab it to pull it in and out of the gap. If you don't want to put holes in it you may be able to use some sort of doublesided sticky tape to grab it, but something that pierces would probably be more effective. I despise MDF! I'll spend a little more to get pine, composite, or pvc. I live in a humid climate though so MDF does not hold up well.
Why not just get a sheet of sanded ply and rip it down into extra wide door jambs? That's what most ppl do with oversized jambs. Or if u go to a specialty trim store they will often sell jambs up to 6.5- 7 inches
@@JOIHIINI Because plywood is extremely expensive here, I have to drive an hour each way to pick it up & bring it back, and there are no specialty trim stores within 100 miles of me.
@catsmeow5566 how much is a door jamb tho? A sheet of plywood cut up will make 10 door jambs, I guess if ur just doing one it's not worth it but a 4x8 sheet of ply cut up would be 10 standard door jambs so even if the door jamb is like 1.40 a linear foot a 100$ sheet of sanded ply breaks even plus the time saved ends up being worth the money even if it is more expensive especially if ur doing this for a bunch of doors
I had this issue around a door as I stupidly hung board with factory edge on the sides of the jamb and then butt edge along the top. So I blended with plaster down the sides from the top and ended up with the board sticking out past the frame only at the top and about 30cm down either side of the frame. I watched a different video where a guy assembled the trim and then held it in place to mark it's external perimeter on the wall. He then cut out the board with a multi tool where it protruded so the trim could be installed flush against the door frame then caulked the edge between the cut board and trim. So anyway I tried it and it actually worked really well. Compared to all this ripping and caulking it seems a lot simpler. Not trying to say it is better as I'm a DIYer and not that experienced, but is there any reason you choose this approach over the one I've described?
Kitchen to laundry room door casing was tight. Last couple days a wedge gap has open up top to bottom on front and back of one side just like your first one. Single story section of smallish 1890"s house. Why did this happen suddenly. Foundation? No other doorway is affected. Last week I added 1/2 finish plywood over the original kitchen ceiling plaster and blew in 15" cellulose insulation. But nothing structural.
Caulking and duct tape fixes most everything. I worked for a slum lord (my friends dad) in the city when I was 14 and we fixed everything with caulk and duct tape. He’d buy burned out houses and paint the charred wood 😆 to get passed inspections and get a section 8 family in the house ASAP. I wasn’t the decision maker just the labor in that just to be upfront. Lol. Looks good from my house was the going expression on a lot of job sites. Love it. I regret some of the things done but I was a kid following directions to get paid, period.
Take off casing, nail 1/2" spacer to door jamb, use 20 min mud to level wall from jamb to corner. Cover it up with casing and paint. You would be ok with seeing that from your house.
Not sure why, but the line "...a rental for students" reminded me of an associate's off campus housing. I was invited to a party there... there was nothing on the studs down stairs... no plaster or drywall... and no finish flooring. It was a rocking party and as people danced the whole floor shook and you could see the studs moving. On that note, that tapered filler looks fantastic!
Vancouver Carpenter is a most enjoyable-to-watch professional. I love his calm demeanor and plain spoken instructions.
Ben is the best!
Just wanted to say thanks. All your videos helped me do something I never thought I would be able to accomplish. I just finished a room in my basement, just need to prime and paint. Your videos helped me every step of the way. I would post pictures of what your tutorials do for someone with no construction background but we can’t do that on UA-cam. Thank you sir.
Ben, I have ben watching you since early skateboarding channel days and now I'm watching as i renovate my house. My friend, you have a wealth of interesting and useful tips and I do favor your channel over others. Thanks buddy.
Hey great video! You did an awesome job. My doors are so messed up Haha. House was built 1913.
Side note. As an electrician, the faceplate on the light switch suddenly caught my eye. Tell your electrician that he doesn't have to tighten those 4 screws! It warps the crap out of the plates. The switches are already secure to the gangbox and the plate is just for decorative purposes and to cover the sides. I barely tighten those and I always leave the scew slits in the same direction haha.
It probably looks just as bad to me as the double reveal on a long tapered strip looks to you 🤣
Me to, O.C.D in me.
@@johnhowerton8241Was going to reply the same thing.
Ben..Thank You, Thank You.. I did the tapered cut just like you did after I replaced 5 indoor doors..I had never done it before & I was was wondering if a professional like you did such a thing!! So I guess I am pro now that I have mastered the tapered cut insert for door jam trim.. Keep up the good work Ben & see you in your next video!!
THANK YOU! I tried it and it worked great. Your videos are so helpful because they show how to solve probelms--others ignore the realities of remodeling and fixing old probelms.
I’ve applied so many of your techniques for rebuilding my first home. By far my favorite channel. You’ve been a life saver for some of these tricky jobs I’ve run into along the way. Much appreciated
Mr Vancouver
Sometimes you and Jeff don’t realize the good you’re doing helping the rest of us out here with these videos your doing…
…I’ve got a situation going on right now just like the one you did with the door and putting that stripping in The door jam
’m dealing with a window, you helped me cure the problem..And you cut that long skinny and strip and you made it look so easy I have attempted to do that in the past I zigzag all over the place can’t seem to get a straight enough….thanks so much :)
I learned a few years ago that sanding before priming, after priming and after 1st coat of paint makes a big improvement in the final finish.
Don’t be afraid to lightly sand between coats. Sponge sanding pads at 220 grit are great.
Wet sanding is where it's at
Woke up to a VC notification. Ran for my coffee and here we go. This was helpful cause I have a feeling I may run into this since we are making our own door jambs. I learn so much from you. Love starting my mornings this way. We thank and appreciate you . . . always.
Tip for when the realtor hasn't left a nice pad of paper for you -- I slap a few layers of painters tape or masking tape on the side of my tape measure. Layer it on -- first left-to-right, then top-to-bottom -- this way you can peel off the top layer easily when you want to discard it, and you're left with a clean "pad" to scribble measurements on! Your tape measure follows you from work piece to the saw, so your list of measurements might as well! Cheers!
For a minute I thought you were going to say. You took painters tape and put it over the gap and painted over it. I was gunna say that’s some evil shit 😂
1:20 "I'm not aiming for perfection. I'm aiming for Good Enough." Sounds like my dating life.
lol
Your videos make me feel better about my crooked-ass house
Tip: angle cut on a table saw. Mark your angle line on the wood that you are going to cut. Take another board and lay it on top of the line or offset from the line, your choice. Then screw the two boards together. Now you have one board parallel to the blade and fence and the other board on top or bottom your choice screwed to the parallel board at the angel. Set your fence and rip.
I could have used that advice on the gap to the left of my bathroom vanity. I ended up buying one of those foam-filled plastic baseboards and cut it with a knife.
Get yourself some good carpet tape, its gotta be the right kind though, shurtape is the best. It's super strong and will not wiggle I use this to do the same thing and then you dont have screw holes and it is super quick and sticky enough it can be peeled off and still work on the next piece. The very best for router guides. Stick em together and flush trim. So versatile
I was coming to the comments to say exactly this
“If you’re doing stain grade trim I don’t know God help you 🤷🏻♂️” 😂😂😭😭
Or, just (ignore the pain and) paint it. Thanks for the video.
What's stain grade trim? I'm a DIY beginner and have only honed drywall + skimming, but, when it comes to carpentry I want to run the other way. But I'm still taking the dive and feel motivated to do my own trim. But still have a lot to learn . . .
@@Cindy25Cox Stain grade trim is trim that you stain rather than paint a solid color, i.e., a natural wood finish rather than painted. You can't caulk when you're assembling stained trim, so it's a lot less forgiving.
@@Cindy25Cox Suitable for staining. Solid wood no blemishes (or joints). Much more expensive. On my current project, previous owner applied a “unique”-colored stain to stain grade Kelleher (pre-pandemic $7.00/foot). We wound up painting it. (Oh the pain, but right decision.).
jamb extensions, cut out drywall behind the casing. tight to the jamb and back band it
: Silk purse, out of a sows ears" Even when not working on a project, watching your uploads is always educational and entertaining. Awesome work!
This video couldn't have come at a more perfect time! Thank you Ben! Also, you and I both know that the painters will not sand between coats 😂
What kinda painters are you using?
I’m doing a job now and the walls are an inch from top to bottom out. I was just telling my co-worker on Friday how we’re going to have to rip tapered extensions on Tuesday….and this video comes up on the top of my feed!
Nice work man! Love the channel
I have a sliding block wedge strip gig. Tilt saw to 5 degrees and rip a block. Flip it and add a stop to the trailing edge. Now you can make 10 degree bevel strips. These can be tucked into small tapered gaps until they fit. Then you use an extended snap point knife to trim them flush. They’ll fit perfectly without the need for caulk. Putty and paint make it what it ain’t! It might even work for stain grade!
Glad to know I did the right thing when I encountered this situation with my new front door. Only I didn't use caulk. I glued the strip in using wood glue as flush as possible and then used spackle to make it flush with the edge of the trim. Although it looks like one piece, it does leave a big shadow from the overhead light above the door.
I appreciate all your tips and tricks. I am remodeling our home...for us at this point so I want it to look beautiful; you are helping me make that happen! Thanks from California.
Think did a good job too. Not an easy thing to “fix” and I’ve seen ppl use caulk, wood fillers, bondo, combinations, etc….to get it to “look” better than before.
Liked the comment ya said about the painter and just sanding a bit to “make it look better”….. That’s a thing some ppl don’t realize, imo, that each “Trade” before and after ALL DEPENDS on each other and NEEDS each other for things to work out. It’s always better to be on same page then not; and fighting with material “fixing” crap that someone else coulda a spent a few extra seconds or mins on (and yes know time is money) for the finished material and end result to look amazing.
Nice series this has been, really been enjoying watching it👍🏻✌🏻
I can't believe how many of your videos I've needed to get through my projects. Thanks again.
Mertric man here haha loved that you put that in there 💪😜🤙 im like yep speaks gibberish American measurement... ok top, middle, bottom got it haha im just watching this for entertainment your tips and tricks have really helped me over the last few years renovating my house. Im heaps better at plastering now 💪😜🤙
I've done quite a few of these, but instead of making a wedge shaped piece, I just loosened the bottom of the casing and made a 7/16th jam extension so it looks the same all the way down. You wouldn't see the gap behind the casing because its so close to the corner and it would be caulked anyway. Turned out alright I guess.
Just found you on UA-cam. I love how you explain why you do things a certain way and also briefly name a few other ways to accomplish the same goal. Keep up the good work!
Try 20 minute drywall mud mixed to the consistency of a thick paste. Sets faster than wood filler and a lot cheaper. It is very durable , barely shrinks can be carved very easily when it first sets up.
Otherwise you could have stuck with a even extension jamb and hid the tapered gap behind the casing to the wall.
Thank you, I had a LOT of door jamb to wall issues in my basement finish and I used the 20 minute mud just like you. That's been three years ago and no cracks or peeling. I'm just not good with wood small trim fillers. just never cuts right and most of time I break them getting them nailed to the wall/jamb. And just like the video I was going for "Good Enough". I do use the "Stinky primer/ Paint" (can't never remember the name of it) but it put out fumes and it does cover and dries FAST. The people that live in the basement {relatives) don't pay any rent so they don't complain.
As a painter I love and hate this video. I love that you describe that all water based materials shrink, use a putty knife and recommend two coats for what you did here. As a painter: caulking sucks to sand as does trim paint. You can use a 1/4 sheet power sander on caulking before trim paint. I liked the tips in your video though, if I was working in a rental property I'd assume the same quality standards of what you did here
I used wood bondo to fix out of plumb casing gap (and wall) on a new door at my mom's 70 year old house. Mix it, fill it as best I could, and sand it after it hardens. Then all ready to paint within an hour. It looked great after painting. No gap and beautifully smooth. And stayed that way, on a heavily used bathroom door.
Thank you. I like this method much more than the cutting away of the drywall method. I need to do this with two doorways. We installed new doors with the frames. The drywall in part of the upper hallway is maybe 1/4” or more thicker than what I normally see used.
"If you're doing stain grade finish, God help you." LOL
Who does stain cases anymore? I rarely see that personally
The entire frame would have to be ripped out, it's primed 🤣
If it were stain grade then the casing would be custom made on site
What is "LOL"?
Too funny!
Just the video I needed to finish some work In The house. I was thinking this but just wasn't sure. Thank you sir for your great work and enjoyable personality.
I went to Lowe's today Thursday 8-26-21 2x4x8 $3.68 us Pueblo Colorado, Shock shock blessings Pastor Mike
Since your not aiming for perfection, best thing to do is to use your hammer to mash the drywall behind where the trim will be.
Then just apply the trim and touch up the drywall with joint compound if necessary.
That's what I do. I hold up a piece of trim as a guide to cut the paper where the trim meets the drywall. Then hammer the drywall, leaving level portions that support the trim when nailed. This method makes a wicked mess, so I carry a smallish canvas drop cloth.. In my opinion, the end result looks far better than crooked lines in the door / window casement. :)
Zackley! Been trimming for 50+ years. Much better finish and much faster.
For stain grade or if I want it to be less obvious I build a custom door jamb tapered to fit the opening. With that wider style stop trim most people won’t even see it. Another option if the door is already installed is I remove the stop trim, if possible, and make a custom wide stop trim that tapers to fit the opening then set the door trim over the stop to cover the crack between the stop and jamb making the reveal on the new stop trim.
Chalk line is the best straight edge. I'm on a reno right now that needs this done so I thank you for your timely upload!
I just installed two sets of double doors today and I definitely have this problem on one of the sets. A crowned stud appears to be the problem. Will definitely give this a try.
watched your video on installing casing when your drywall is proud it is much easier to roll your miter joint to avoid the gap between casing and jamb
I remember the days before prehung....I use to run string line diagonal to perfect jam placement....nice job
I love the video always enjoy watching another contractor work so graciously
Your videos have helped me become a master finisher!
Painter friend advised me to use Dynaflex 230 over Alex Plus for a large trim carpentry project because I live in an area with large temperature and humidity swings throughout the year, he mentioned it holds up much better through the seasonal expansion & contraction. Two years in and very little cracking, give it a try next time if you can get the product in your area.
I just did the exact same on my moms old house. Tapered fillers and 18 tubes of caulking. Looks good.
I've got this problem at the bottom of the stairs that go down to my and my neighbor's basements. The drywall had pulled away from the wall after decades of the door slamming. Started with a wood strip that's a little smaller than the casing, and that holds the screws I used to pull the drywall in as far as it would go. Over that, I'm going to glue on a resin impression I made of the casing I used on the rest of the frame, in order to hide the screws. There will still be a small gap, so I'll caulk that and when the caulk shrinks, I'll level it with joint filler and sand it.
Showing the real unedited work of a professional!
I've ran into this multiple times. And that's how I do it also. Just glad that it's the way other people do it. Always wondered if I was doing it right. Thanks for letting me know it is the right way
I need to do that to all my window casings. I installed new windows all around my house and now there is about 3/8 gap all around between the window and the casing because the new windows were not as deep. I don’t want to replace the casing so this is a good option. Thank you.
Hey @Vancouver Carpenter, amazing !!!!! I just had that same issue at my front door. The gap wasn't as severe as you've got in that doorway, I was able to caulk mine - just last night. Get'er done and you can go skateboard !!!!
If you have to do this stain grade, try the same technique but glue and clamp it. You'd be surprised, sometimes it doesn't look half bad! The other option would be to tack in a jamb extension and scribe it to the wall. Or rehang the door... Great video!
With this being an older home their could be various reasons for the gap as you mentioned but if it was new construction I would bet the door was not properly installed and if that is the case I would rather take out the door an re-install it the correct way. This method will work good on older homes or homes where perfection isn't necessary such as a rental in your case.
Thanks! I was just wondering about how to fix this since I have a few issues similar to this in some window trim. I have begun using the adhesive spacers that go under furniture legs to attach to the edge of a board in order to space it off my table saw fence to get an angled cut. Works pretty ok.
Lol, yep Australian chippy here, so yep...I've kind of got a handle on what your Plus / Minus Imperial lingo is now. Nice "Safety Squint and respirator use of the T shirt lol. Nice vid. Cheers.
I had to deal with a similar situation a month ago, except it was stain grade oak. I cut my long wedge on the table saw about a half to nothing then cleaned it up with a block plane. Idk what I would have done without the block plane, the table saw burned through it pretty bad but I was able to clean it up nicely with the plane. Might even be easier on stain grade tbh since you don't have to worry about caulk cracking down the road. A hairline crack between pieces of oak fits in much better than a hairline crack on a white painted surface
I just installed a set of double doors that are 135 years old, into a new home. There was 1.5 inches of twist, I had to cut tapered jamb extensions for both sides of the door.
Another fun way to make that tapered rip... Using a table saw, and not freehand..
Tape 2 boards together, put a spacer between the boards on 1 end the size of the larger end of the gap. Then cut as normal against your fence.. Option B,, make your fence longer and just put the spacer on the board you are cutting..
Works well, but always remember to pay attention to what the saw is doing and keep your digits away from that blade.
What I do is grab the edge of the jamb with fingertips, palm against casing and squeeze together. More often than not, there’s enough movement to close the gap and fire some finish nails into casing and jamb, the way it should’ve been done in the first place to avoid this situation. Quick, easy and effective 👍🏻
Nice job. But I would have used a foam backer rod and stuff it in and leave about 1/8" - 1/16" depth. Fill the rest with caulk or elastomeric joint compound
Thx for the approach. I am a root cause kind of person and would want to prevent this situation from ever occurring or fix the source. What is the root cause of this? Shoddy walls not squared and/or door hanging? All the best!!
It’s shoddy installation on the door and it’s showing us red flags that there is trouble with the in inconsistent filler measurements.
The door needed to be set better initially.
GOOD ENOUGH IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH!
If you hear a tradesperson say that…..they suck and have no pride or skill!!!!!!
If it's an old house, it settles over the years. The walls can lean in or out that much.
I've used this old school technique a time or two! It definitely works! But after using a track saw you get spoiled! Nice vid!
The cause of this is king and jack studs not being the same width … drives me nuts seeing this stuff , good job with what u had to work with
Or they weren't nailed together flush.... or both!
Those are a real pain. Great solution, Ben.
you taught me to tape. I learned alot of what I know from you in regards to mudding and taping. in saying that I'll say this I don't recommend flushing your casing with your jamb.( not sure if that's what you did but it was hard to tell) gives it a nicer profile with an 1/8 inch or 3/16 reveal. also if your gaps are big I would cut out the drywall behind the casing where the gaps are. another thing I've done in the past replace the jamb. I know it depends on the customer and their needs and wants but I personally hate seeing big caulk lines. been a finish carpenter for 9 years now. love your videos man, got my red seal in Edmonton but recently moved back home in Ontario. keep it up man!
Agree, but he said it's plaster walls, and cutting that out is a bitch to do
@@richardr5013 ah I didn't that. my bad
Curious why you didn’t want to use something harder like wood filler rather than dap?Also Sherwin Williams caulk works amazing as well.
Glad you made this video. Had to do this on a door frame in our condo and will likely have to do it the others when I rehang and re-trim the others. Will be much easier next time thanks to you!
When you were explaining the reasons that could cause it, i just thought "all of the above".
Nice to watch a pro at work.
Great vid! I just put in an exterior door and have a similar gap on the inside trim where the wall isn't perfectly straight.
Thanks, and RED DRAGONS!
That looks sharp! Thank you for this clear tutorial on a really annoying installation issue.
😂🤣 3rd rule “Good Enough!!” Awesome Video!
That must be the wage gap everyone’s been talking about.
Good method I've done this for a while.
Another good productbI like using a product called Rock Hard Putty basically its bondo for houses.
I mask off the area mix it thick so it doesnt run or sag and after its wiped level with a spackle knife it stayed pretty good. Needs very little sanding and once painted it looks like wood
We discovered that someone had done this to a door in our fixer upper we renovated. While changing the door trim in our interior I discovered that this was done. When I took the old trim off I discovered that the door frame was proud on one side and shallow on the other side. I simply took the door frame out and reinstated it correctly! Problem solved! I couldn't believe all the work someone did in the past to make it look good! Lol! Anyways I only mentioned this because I'm wondering if you don't have the same issue here???
Loving the PPE ! Next time could you show us the blade you use in the saw? Thanks
Always learn something from your videos, thank you!
I needed this video for the work I’m doing this weekend! Thank you! 😃👍
A little caulk and a little paint will make a carpenter what he ain't. Lol....good job man
Would you recommend a very light spritz of water on the knife or finger. Its the way i have done it a lot of times and for me it makes it easier to work. Just found you today and enjoying your videos.
A table saw is the best for this. Lattice is always a good option. A good block plane works great. Also have use shoe molding
perfect, this is exactly what I need to do, thanks for the instruction!
curious if you've tried using spackle instead of putty on the gaps? I've had good luck with getting spackle to fill larger gaps and it tends to sand easy between coats of paint as well
See? This is real world! Thx bro!!
Thank you for this advice. I have a door which the locksmith kicked to open. Major split on inner jamb on old oregon pine painted door. Just been staring at.
Are you sure you called a locksmith? Maybe you called swat?
Only way to avoid scratches on safety glasses is to actually use them.
Oh
I always learn something new on your vids. Love them! Great job!
Awesome! Thank you!
"I apologize for my excellent putty knife skills." Classic Canadian.
Backing rod / caulk and a little finesse . Done and done . I'll end up floating a skim coat over the filler peice anyway to avoid a seam flash .
Imma painter so the prep cant be half assed .
When I heard what you said about the realtor card you got my like 😂👍
Thank you for this. The doors and walls in my house are all sorts of wonky. I have to install 3 doors (two are replacements). This should come in handy. I discovered that some of my walls are thicker than I realized so there will be gaps. If you're going to be caulking it, you could put a nail or screw on the face and use those to grab it to pull it in and out of the gap. If you don't want to put holes in it you may be able to use some sort of doublesided sticky tape to grab it, but something that pierces would probably be more effective.
I despise MDF! I'll spend a little more to get pine, composite, or pvc. I live in a humid climate though so MDF does not hold up well.
Why not just get a sheet of sanded ply and rip it down into extra wide door jambs? That's what most ppl do with oversized jambs. Or if u go to a specialty trim store they will often sell jambs up to 6.5- 7 inches
@@JOIHIINI Because plywood is extremely expensive here, I have to drive an hour each way to pick it up & bring it back, and there are no specialty trim stores within 100 miles of me.
@catsmeow5566 how much is a door jamb tho? A sheet of plywood cut up will make 10 door jambs, I guess if ur just doing one it's not worth it but a 4x8 sheet of ply cut up would be 10 standard door jambs so even if the door jamb is like 1.40 a linear foot a 100$ sheet of sanded ply breaks even plus the time saved ends up being worth the money even if it is more expensive especially if ur doing this for a bunch of doors
@@JOIHIINI Only doing one.
I had this issue around a door as I stupidly hung board with factory edge on the sides of the jamb and then butt edge along the top. So I blended with plaster down the sides from the top and ended up with the board sticking out past the frame only at the top and about 30cm down either side of the frame. I watched a different video where a guy assembled the trim and then held it in place to mark it's external perimeter on the wall. He then cut out the board with a multi tool where it protruded so the trim could be installed flush against the door frame then caulked the edge between the cut board and trim.
So anyway I tried it and it actually worked really well. Compared to all this ripping and caulking it seems a lot simpler. Not trying to say it is better as I'm a DIYer and not that experienced, but is there any reason you choose this approach over the one I've described?
Kitchen to laundry room door casing was tight. Last couple days a wedge gap has open up top to bottom on front and back of one side just like your first one. Single story section of smallish 1890"s house. Why did this happen suddenly. Foundation? No other doorway is affected.
Last week I added 1/2 finish plywood over the original kitchen ceiling plaster and blew in 15" cellulose insulation. But nothing structural.
Caulking and duct tape fixes most everything. I worked for a slum lord (my friends dad) in the city when I was 14 and we fixed everything with caulk and duct tape. He’d buy burned out houses and paint the charred wood 😆 to get passed inspections and get a section 8 family in the house ASAP. I wasn’t the decision maker just the labor in that just to be upfront. Lol. Looks good from my house was the going expression on a lot of job sites. Love it. I regret some of the things done but I was a kid following directions to get paid, period.
What's section 8?
Section 8 Housing is rent subsidized housing in California.
Love the safety squint😂😂
Loctite power grab works great and it’s easier to tool on big gaps. And when it’s dry I use caulk on top.
Don't know the answer to this, but could you fill the gaps with Elmer's wood filler or is it best to use the DAP caulk?
Caulk only
Sometimes better is good enough, so true, and not to be confused with better is the enemy of good
the cost of an 8 foot 2x4 in northern BC is $4.89. But the lumber yard is 5 kms from the mill that cuts them.
stain grade trim really is an different kind of beast
“It’s going to look good from my house.” Bahaha
Would you not be better off using wood filler in this situation to prevent future shrinkage?
Take off casing, nail 1/2" spacer to door jamb, use 20 min mud to level wall from jamb to corner. Cover it up with casing and paint. You would be ok with seeing that from your house.
Not sure why, but the line "...a rental for students" reminded me of an associate's off campus housing. I was invited to a party there... there was nothing on the studs down stairs... no plaster or drywall... and no finish flooring. It was a rocking party and as people danced the whole floor shook and you could see the studs moving. On that note, that tapered filler looks fantastic!
Painter is gonna love you