Our Most Popular E-Bike Battery, but what's REALLY inside?
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- Опубліковано 27 лип 2024
- One of our most common e-bike battery builds that we offer at www.AffordableEBikes.ca are these 48V 15AH and 20AH 21700 Samsung 50E Packs. They are a really solid casing, cell holders, space for BMS, and allow use of a built-in controller. These are an awesome battery for 500W hub motors, the controllers have a 22A peak current rating and 11A rated which gives a solid 500W continuous and 1000W peak performance.
What's awesome about these packs is that they are also very simple and cost effective to build for a DIY Project. The cell configurations are very straight forward, you don't have to worry about a side mounted which can be tricky, and there are nickel plates readily available for these packs which makes spot welding a breeze.
Hope you enjoy this look at what's inside of these battery packs and how they come together. As always thank you for checking out our videos!
For more info check us out at
www.AffordableEBikes.ca
0:00 - Intro
0:10 - Giveaway
0:40 - Overview
3:12 - Configuration
3:40 - Welding Plates/Wrapping
4:10 - Attaching BMS
4:50 - Active Balancer
5:07 - Setting Up The Base
7:00 - Attaching Battery to base
8:20 - Final Look Over - Наука та технологія
That controller base is cool! I didn't know that they existed.
Most ppl out there dont understand u guys are some of the best battery and bike builds out there,and right here in southern ontario. Oh ya almost forgot to mention... best price for top grade builds!!! They even build quality massive batteries,as they're in process of building my 84v33.6ah...
Thank you very much !! 😁
Subbed just now. Cool stuff you have going on here!
Thank you!! 😊
Awesome video. Love the sharing. Can you send a link to the BMS and nickel plates that you used for this build?
Will you sell this box and nickel strip so I may build one myself? Is the 13s3p with 50e a good setup for a bbs02 build in your opinion? What thickness nickel strip are you using?
I have your 48v 21amp 1865 cell pack, the best bang for your amphr $Buck$, larger and heaver compared to the 2170 cell, but on my trike that's not a problem. I have been trying to drain this battery pack so far total 107kms, 758watt-hrs used, 44.9 volts, on todays ride pulling 410 watts from the pack, @32 kph, voltage drop from 44.9v to 44.5v = .04v. I will charge at 42 voltage. Thank for a Great Battery Pack.
Team : "Our Indian origin presenter will be demonstrating in this video".
Senior member : "uuhh is it? SPEED up the video! Reduce his face time".
thanks for all your vidéo. J was wondering what kind of awg cable J should use for a 13s7p 18650 batteries pack ? it's for a bbs2b motor... thanks for your help!
BBS02s come standard with I believe 14AWG but bumping up to 12AWG is a better bet, if you have a 13S7P even 10AWG if the battery can output enough current
@@ElectricBikeLaboratory thank 😀
One question is there anyway the lithium oin battery's still good cuz of the bms being fried and it made all the batteries to .013 percent now ? Do you know if u think i can save them batterys ? There still good no physical damage to the batterys
You'll have to boost the pack and see if it holds voltage
Feel like thermistor placement can be improved. Since the placement is edge of the outermost cell it will most likely have lower temps than ones closer to center. Then again wiring that will be a pain since wire doesnt look that long. :( looks pretty solid otherwise.
Agreed, if the wires provided were a bit longer! I can see about asking DALY if they can extend the thermistors. Thanks for the comment! :)
Also why not organize groups to have positive and negative end at same end of case?
The layout they have rn is most optimal for lowest IR. If you do that youd end up with long lines. Not good for IR also prone to failure modes if one of the series weld fail.
If youre talking about putting all positive ends of cells on one side and negative on other, that is not how series parallel connections work on batteries. Youd end up with 1 series battery.
Nailed it, this allows most efficient flow of series connections
No more copper plates?
On high-current packs, yes copper is the way to go. These are fairly light duty packs, usually hooking up to a 22A peak controller. Pure nickel is good if it never gets warm under load. Thanks for the comment!