my local shop wants 600 to fix on my r6 i think im gonna do it myself this is the best video ive seen on it and you actually explained the order unlike the other videos ive seen
I gotta do my clutch this year.. I watch these videos to pump myself up, tell myself it's not gonna be so bad. Thanks for the encouragement haha I literally tried a pull on my way home tonight hit about 8k in 3rd gear I thought I blew the doors off the back tire and roasted it the way the tach just started pingin off redline. It was absolutely trash firing through the gears. I can only do about half throttle... guess I'm gonna order those parts now
Good video unfortunately you reassembled the last friction plate incorrectly. It should have been half phase out from rest. If you look at the video again you see the first one taken off was out of step with the rest but when reassembled it was in line with the others.
hey man, what do you mean by 'half phase out' service manual alsa says 'Install the last friction plate shifting half phase.' ı have done my clutch and last friction plate is sitting just like the other ones ı am not getting that half phase out thing, also have question about the installation way of steel plates, to me side surface of the plates are different, do you know which way is correct?
I believe he's referencing that when he first take the pressure plate off, the first friction plate doesn't sit in the same grooves as the rest of them. First time i've caught that, certainly didn't do that when I put mine back together a while back but will be sure to do that this time around. Good eye @neil Stephen
Note, the last friction plate in contact with the pressure plate has to be offset, there is a dot on the top of the clutch basket where the finger of the friction plate has to rest different from the 8 previous ones...
By the way, why does it made so? I think it is made for tourism... If u burn your clutch you will be able to remove offset and ride some way... And what is your opinion?
I took an old clutch plate, and disc, and drilled holes in them, riveted them together, to put in the basket, when tightening down the clutch nut. Works great.
before you all go replacing clutches.....biggest cause of clutch slip is the wrong engine oil!! clutch is bathing in oil (slipper) always use what yamaha reccomend. good vid.....awesome you have bike in your house!!
Hey man I'm going to change my clutch, only thing I didn't see is where did you put the different clutch plate?? By the way awesome video well explained bro 👌🏽👍🏽
Biggest pain in the arse I had was aligning the index markers on the actuator arm... only to find that my clutch cable was totally loose! Great vid. Btw, if you've used uprated springs, make sure they don't knacker your clutch pressure diaphragm spring ( or whatever they're called - those 3 springs stacked closely at the base of the basket by the central nut). I installed an EBC street racing kit with uprated springs only to have the clutch slipping after 2 track days. When I took the clutch apart, the 2 of the prongs on the pressure spring had sheared completely off, suggesting that the uprated springs were too stiff.
there was no need to dump the oil in bike unless you were do for an oil change!!!! future tip bike over on its side and you save yourself a great deal of time an work....my friend taught me that trick...an i did it too leaned my bike up against wall used a blanket to keep bike from getting nicked up during process an i changed my clutch cover gasket put new one on and let it sit fir 2 days on 3rd day i started my bike up and let it get to temp..saw no leaks at that time...then i took it round block not on high way....i did that to check bike under pressure n load if it would leak or had a leak still and nothing i was good from there on mate...
Meesh Gravano thanks bro yeh that was a torque wrench, and yeh I needed to change the oil n filter anyway plus when you've burnt out your clutch your bound to have plenty of burnt clutch material floating round in your oil!
yeah your correct brotha..i didnt think of that aspect being you had burnt your clutch out..i forgot what u indicated in previous vid on it b4 making this one changing it out..thanks
Windows Gamers ☞ ☞ ☞ ☞ ☞ ☞ ☞ ya checaste tu sensor de la pata ese pueda ser!! La pata tiene un sensor debajo qe si está fallando la detecta la computadora y no deja qe funcione el motor
Yes. At high revs the oil level sensor gets triggered and stays on until the bike is switched off. Just top up the oil a little above the max fill level
If what he says is true and the bike was cold from a fresh oil change, the oil was still too thick to flow properly thru the cylinder head and the bike was constantly being revved ....it was basically starved from proper oil feed and the buckets/tappets were pissed :)
Hi mate. I’ve followed your steps on my r1 and I’ve got it all back together only thing is now is the clutch lever is very hard to pull in and it’s not like it used to be. Also should there be a gap between the last fibre plate and the pressure plate? Any help would be great full. Thanks
Azz Kam Azz Kam no everything is the same in the clutch. I only took it apart because I could hear a rattle but everything is fine in there. Just now the clutch is very stiff.
Rickardo Napoli not sure mate you just have to recount all your steps and put everything back exactly as it was! Have you adjusted the cable back properly from the bottom up? Did you torque down the clutch springs correctly? Did you line up the dot on the clutch arm with the arrow on the clutch cover? I really wouldn’t know just go back step by step and make sure everything is as it was.
@@qwerty15990 The rattle is a normal R1 clutch thing. There are dampening springs behind the clutch basket that are loose and will rattle, nothing wrong with it. Now to fix your issue. The pressure plate has teeth on it same as the metal plates in the clutch assembly. If there is a gap between the last fibre and the pressure plate it means you didn't seat it right. Just take the pressure plate off and rotate it around to the next holes and kind of wiggle it on until it fits in place. Hopefully this helps anyone else with this issue.
Is there a gasket that needs to be replaced? I've changed clutches in the past on different bikes and had to scrape off and replace the gasket before I reinstalled the cover. Just wondering because I didnt see it done.
Azz Kam can't be mate. Caust it the friction plate that goes in then maybe judder spring. Cause the steel plate has a groove In it for the springs is it friction plate spring spring then steel plate. Thanks for your response brother.
Adrian De Billot you may be right I just remember taking them out last! On the 4c8 that first friction plate has a much smaller diameter than the rest and I’m thinking wether the springs go straight through and sit on the same level as the plate? That’s what I think is illustrated on the work manual but not sure, I’m thinking when I pulled out the last friction plate did it just slide out over the springs?? I may have to pull it out AGAIN!!!
Also after the first small plate you say the other 8 are the same. this is not the case. they all look the same but one is made of a different material and that go's in last as it go's again ally not steel.
I started this yesterday Everything went smoothly Until it was time to put the clutch cover back on,I've got too much slack in the cable now, I gave up for the night Gonna have another crack at it this morning
Azz Kam I managed to do it today I fxcked up by not putting the plate with the springs on properly The plate has grooves for the teeth to slot into So wasn't sitting properly on the basket Before I even tried to put the cover on 😂😂😂 It found itself once I'd put the plate on properly Garage wanted to charge me 3 hours labour plus filter and oil change I'm confident I can do this again in 40 to an hour No oil change needed Good tutorial mate Made me have a go myself 👍🏻👊🏻
Hi Azz Kam, Could you let me know what were the symptoms of the worn clutch plates felt to you!? I have a 2007 R6 and the bloody thing after it get 's hot, at 85 degree Celsius a can t put it in N (neutral). I m using a 7100 Motul Full Synth oil and i don t have and slippery felling. Many thanks in advance
Fiber plates with numbers or marks on the tab should be aligned and also facing the engine (turns back at you) Also for all the metal plates, the soft edge should face the engine.
10:38 he installed the spring ring the wrong way it should curve out towards you not to the engine side and the last plate is also wrong omg that explains why your clutch looks so fucked up.
my local shop wants 600 to fix on my r6 i think im gonna do it myself this is the best video ive seen on it and you actually explained the order unlike the other videos ive seen
You saved me heaps of time on working out how to align the cover to the spline shaft. Thanks Bro!
Paul Denne glad it helped bro
I gotta do my clutch this year.. I watch these videos to pump myself up, tell myself it's not gonna be so bad. Thanks for the encouragement haha I literally tried a pull on my way home tonight hit about 8k in 3rd gear I thought I blew the doors off the back tire and roasted it the way the tach just started pingin off redline. It was absolutely trash firing through the gears. I can only do about half throttle... guess I'm gonna order those parts now
brother thank you it helpt me allot ! greets from the Netherlands !
Good video unfortunately you reassembled the last friction plate incorrectly. It should have been half phase out from rest. If you look at the video again you see the first one taken off was out of step with the rest but when reassembled it was in line with the others.
hey man, what do you mean by 'half phase out' service manual alsa says 'Install the last friction plate shifting half phase.' ı have done my clutch and last friction plate is sitting just like the other ones ı am not getting that half phase out thing, also have question about the installation way of steel plates, to me side surface of the plates are different, do you know which way is correct?
I believe he's referencing that when he first take the pressure plate off, the first friction plate doesn't sit in the same grooves as the rest of them. First time i've caught that, certainly didn't do that when I put mine back together a while back but will be sure to do that this time around. Good eye @neil Stephen
Just gonna mention that . In other words, the last clutch disc is the only one, that goes in the "other" set of notches.
Good catch
Or good advice either way
Note, the last friction plate in contact with the pressure plate has to be offset, there is a dot on the top of the clutch basket where the finger of the friction plate has to rest different from the 8 previous ones...
By the way, why does it made so? I think it is made for tourism... If u burn your clutch you will be able to remove offset and ride some way... And what is your opinion?
Richard Khan It is not necessary) It acts as a wear limiter
@@user-qb1nv9ol3k i'd say as "burn limiter"
The pressure plate also has an arrow that has to align with one of three dots on the clutch boss...
Thanks thanks to this video I'm Fixin by myself saving some money
I took an old clutch plate, and disc, and drilled holes in them, riveted them together, to put in the basket, when tightening down the clutch nut. Works great.
useful thanks. I need to do this same job on my 4C8 R1 track bike, which has a sigma slipper clutch but should be broadly the same 👍
Ahh this looks so easy thanks for the video!
Great video... with tension on start up...always the same when you do your own mechanics.
Ride safe.
Peace
John Oleary peace
Very nice explication
before you all go replacing clutches.....biggest cause of clutch slip is the wrong engine oil!! clutch is bathing in oil (slipper) always use what yamaha reccomend. good vid.....awesome you have bike in your house!!
Rotella T6 5W 40 is the best
Love the music Bro. Nice upload thanks for help. I got a grinding noise in my 07 r1 going to do a complete clutch kit I think.
Gregory Beaber Jr 👊
Music by Tom Thum:
ua-cam.com/video/GNZBSZD16cY/v-deo.html
allhamdulillah 👍
dude, isnt that last friction plate meant to be installed half a phase clockwise?
It is
Brilliant video great thankyoy very much for showing it 😀
Plastow/Canning town baby!! :D nice vid bro
Ieva Viciulyte yes yes thanks mate
Nice video great video!👍🏻 but clean your filter TPS and inyector gasoline!
nice work
Great vid, but no revs on startup!
Thanks!
Nice video !!!!!
Good work hamdulilah I just watch and I will go head buy and replace my to
Nice work👍
You need a proper lift! Made my wrenching so much more enjoyable. Good vid.
The only hard thing about the clutch is getting the cover back on trust me the rest is easy but the cover is a pain in the butt
I did such a good job replacing mine that i have a spare spacer left over HAHAHAHA what the fuck did it miss!!!!!!
Hey man I'm going to change my clutch, only thing I didn't see is where did you put the different clutch plate?? By the way awesome video well explained bro 👌🏽👍🏽
luis suarez the smallest friction plate went in first all the metal clutch plates are all the same peace ✌️
Thanks a lot bro, where did you bought you clutch kit??
luis suarez Ebay
Biggest pain in the arse I had was aligning the index markers on the actuator arm... only to find that my clutch cable was totally loose! Great vid.
Btw, if you've used uprated springs, make sure they don't knacker your clutch pressure diaphragm spring ( or whatever they're called - those 3 springs stacked closely at the base of the basket by the central nut). I installed an EBC street racing kit with uprated springs only to have the clutch slipping after 2 track days.
When I took the clutch apart, the 2 of the prongs on the pressure spring had sheared completely off, suggesting that the uprated springs were too stiff.
What kind of gasket did You use and how You did? What do You use To clean the cover before te install the cover?
Nice video ! I have to do this job on my 2001 R1. Hopes it is the same thing than your r1.
How’d that go for you?
@@jeffreysanders2045 very well. Juste follow all the steps and it will be fine !!!
The beats you hear in the background are 100% vocal beatbox.
instagram.com/tomthummer
ua-cam.com/video/GNZBSZD16cY/v-deo.html
Tom also has his own UA-cam channel: Tom Thum
there was no need to dump the oil in bike unless you were do for an oil change!!!! future tip bike over on its side and you save yourself a great deal of time an work....my friend taught me that trick...an i did it too leaned my bike up against wall used a blanket to keep bike from getting nicked up during process an i changed my clutch cover gasket put new one on and let it sit fir 2 days on 3rd day i started my bike up and let it get to temp..saw no leaks at that time...then i took it round block not on high way....i did that to check bike under pressure n load if it would leak or had a leak still and nothing i was good from there on mate...
Meesh Gravano thanks bro yeh that was a torque wrench, and yeh I needed to change the oil n filter anyway plus when you've burnt out your clutch your bound to have plenty of burnt clutch material floating round in your oil!
yeah your correct brotha..i didnt think of that aspect being you had burnt your clutch out..i forgot what u indicated in previous vid on it b4 making this one changing it out..thanks
I need to change mine too. My 3rd gear slippin 😒
Thank tou very much for video :)
Just one ask, How many NM you use for screws of Cover?
Thank tou
Emanuele Randazzo I believe they were also 10nm if I remember correctly see my other video ( clutch rod seal replacement)
did you not find a piano wire to retain the first clutch plate on the anti judder setup ?
Did the bike make some funny noises or did you just feel the clutch fuck up?
you thanks
was that wrench you used a torque one to hear click sound?
there is no need to drain oil.
Did you have to take the piano wire out to remove all the plates?
cud b the magnets
Mi r1 se apaga al ponerle primera marcha y en neutro no se apaga, que sera amigo
Windows Gamers ☞ ☞ ☞ ☞ ☞ ☞ ☞ ya checaste tu sensor de la pata ese pueda ser!! La pata tiene un sensor debajo qe si está fallando la detecta la computadora y no deja qe funcione el motor
@@brulixyzf5825 ya la arregle amigo, gracias , eso de la pata si es posible, pero ya esta solucionado , gracias, gracias
Windows Gamers ☞ ☞ ☞ ☞ ☞ ☞ ☞ aah qe bueno y que era porque tú sabes aveces a uno también le pueda pasar y pues almenos ya se tiene una idea!!
do u have to put the thin one first plate
Question would be the last clutch plate that was smaller did you put that at the very end
Brian Gutierrez the smallest plate went in first
Thank u
al hamdulillah... well done wich year is your R1?? awesome video bro...
Addi kardoudi 2007 brother
Ever had a problem with oil light flashing????
Ngoc Huynh not yet
Yes. At high revs the oil level sensor gets triggered and stays on until the bike is switched off.
Just top up the oil a little above the max fill level
I heard for a 04 you can use a honda Goldwing clutch it just bolts up, and it's a slipper clutch. every heard of this?
Michael Asenato I haven’t but even if I did I’d still rather use an r1 clutch for an r1 even if it’s slightly more expensive
бро!!! ты последний диск поставил не туда!!!!
Not sure if you not about the yamaha rattle in the r1s. however did your bike rattle before this repair?
If what he says is true and the bike was cold from a fresh oil change, the oil was still too thick to flow properly thru the cylinder head and the bike was constantly being revved ....it was basically starved from proper oil feed and the buckets/tappets were pissed :)
Anyone ever use Barnett Clutch plates? I am wondering if I should go with the kevlar or carbon fiber
Hi mate. I’ve followed your steps on my r1 and I’ve got it all back together only thing is now is the clutch lever is very hard to pull in and it’s not like it used to be. Also should there be a gap between the last fibre plate and the pressure plate? Any help would be great full. Thanks
Rickardo Napoli did you use the old springs or new springs as new spring will need time to break in and will make the clutch stiffer than before
Azz Kam Azz Kam no everything is the same in the clutch. I only took it apart because I could hear a rattle but everything is fine in there. Just now the clutch is very stiff.
Rickardo Napoli not sure mate you just have to recount all your steps and put everything back exactly as it was!
Have you adjusted the cable back properly from the bottom up? Did you torque down the clutch springs correctly? Did you line up the dot on the clutch arm with the arrow on the clutch cover? I really wouldn’t know just go back step by step and make sure everything is as it was.
Hi Rickardo. Did you managed to get the clutch lever loose again or? - I have the exact same issue and can't find the solution.
@@qwerty15990 The rattle is a normal R1 clutch thing. There are dampening springs behind the clutch basket that are loose and will rattle, nothing wrong with it. Now to fix your issue. The pressure plate has teeth on it same as the metal plates in the clutch assembly. If there is a gap between the last fibre and the pressure plate it means you didn't seat it right. Just take the pressure plate off and rotate it around to the next holes and kind of wiggle it on until it fits in place. Hopefully this helps anyone else with this issue.
Very helpful video! But what on earth is that music?? Hahaha
Is there a gasket that needs to be replaced? I've changed clutches in the past on different bikes and had to scrape off and replace the gasket before I reinstalled the cover. Just wondering because I didnt see it done.
There is a gasket but on mine it was fine and it didn’t need to be scraped off it just came off and I re used it
@@azzkam8972 thanks brother appreciate the reply
y does the piece that i put the springs in spin for me i feel like it shouldn't be doing that after im done putting the friction plates in
maybe its because the bike is in neutral actually
My springs don't go in all the way and they are torqued down maybe they arent supposed to be flush with the plate?
Hey bro those spring judders about what number do they go in
Adrian De Billot they are the first ones in
Azz Kam can't be mate. Caust it the friction plate that goes in then maybe judder spring. Cause the steel plate has a groove In it for the springs is it friction plate spring spring then steel plate. Thanks for your response brother.
Adrian De Billot you may be right I just remember taking them out last! On the 4c8 that first friction plate has a much smaller diameter than the rest and I’m thinking wether the springs go straight through and sit on the same level as the plate? That’s what I think is illustrated on the work manual but not sure, I’m thinking when I pulled out the last friction plate did it just slide out over the springs?? I may have to pull it out AGAIN!!!
Azz Kam thanks bro. I figured it out. It's one spring first then small friction plate,then steel with groove then another spring
@@adriandebillot7653 how do you take that little wire out?
What year is this R1?
Yup 4c8
Did it solve free play issues when you installed it properly back ? The judder springs, please reply
danas bytautas yes it’s fine now
What year is your bike?
How the fuck did you get the clutch cover on
Also after the first small plate you say the other 8 are the same. this is not the case. they all look the same but one is made of a different material and that go's in last as it go's again ally not steel.
I started this yesterday
Everything went smoothly
Until it was time to put the clutch cover back on,I've got too much slack in the cable now, I gave up for the night
Gonna have another crack at it this morning
E4RYDER don't give up bro take a break and get straight back in.
Azz Kam I managed to do it today
I fxcked up by not putting the plate with the springs on properly
The plate has grooves for the teeth to slot into
So wasn't sitting properly on the basket
Before I even tried to put the cover on
😂😂😂
It found itself once I'd put the plate on properly
Garage wanted to charge me 3 hours labour plus filter and oil change
I'm confident I can do this again in 40 to an hour
No oil change needed
Good tutorial mate
Made me have a go myself 👍🏻👊🏻
E4RYDER good to hear mate glad it helped.
Hi, When you made the video, how many km/miles have this clutch run ?
Around 8k miles
How many miles did you get out of the clutch plates?
ride fast don't die! They’re still going but Iv not been doing much mileage lately
ARAB
Esos discos están mal montados el último disco de fricción tiene que ir adelantado al resto de discos de fricción y separadores .
Hi Azz Kam,
Could you let me know what were the symptoms of the worn clutch plates felt to you!?
I have a 2007 R6 and the bloody thing after it get 's hot, at 85 degree Celsius a can t put it in N (neutral).
I m using a 7100 Motul Full Synth oil and i don t have and slippery felling.
Many thanks in advance
Marius Ungureanu the only symptoms I got were my clutch was slipping you can watch my other video “iv blown my clutch”
Thank you for the reply.
I will watch it !
Wow ure a muslim:)
Do the fiber plates have a front and back or can they go in any way?
Remy Wash the ones I used didn't seem to have a front/back they appeared identical from both sides
Fiber plates with numbers or marks on the tab should be aligned and also facing the engine (turns back at you) Also for all the metal plates, the soft edge should face the engine.
i thought he would've just stolen another R1 from in London
Why?
😁
10:38 he installed the spring ring the wrong way it should curve out towards you not to the engine side and the last plate is also wrong omg that explains why your clutch looks so fucked up.
My clutch basket blew into pieces!!! :-(
Really the music has to go!!!very annoying
Damn. Hating the music.
STOP SNIFFFFFING
Sorry mate must’ve had a cold 🤧